Isuzu D-Max 2008 factory workshop and repair manual download pdf

The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002. It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand, although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.

Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March 5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.

The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor redesign in late 2007.

Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank. Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.

In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing models any more than 2 concepts before.

In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax" engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New 2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian Twin.

Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors, which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of 2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter powerplant with 177-horses.

Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual

1) Theory — what the radiator does and how failures produce symptoms
- Purpose: radiator removes heat from engine coolant by transferring heat from hot liquid flowing through thin-walled tubes to air passing over the core fins. The coolant carries combustion heat from the engine block/head; airflow (vehicle motion + fan) convects that heat away.
- Key components and roles:
- Core (tubes + fins): primary heat exchanger area. More surface area = more heat rejection.
- End tanks and seals: route coolant into/out of the core and keep system sealed.
- Pressure cap & expansion/overflow tank: raise boiling point and manage overflow/return to keep coolant volume consistent.
- Thermostat: controls when coolant is allowed to flow through the radiator to regulate engine temperature.
- Fan (mechanical or electric) and shroud: supply airflow at low speeds for adequate heat transfer.
- Transmission cooler passages (on many D-Max radiators): cool ATF via internal/external lines.
- How faults show up:
- Leak (core, tank, hose, fitting): coolant loss → low coolant level → overheating and possible steam/smell.
- Blockage (internal sludge, scale, collapsed passages): reduced flow → local hotspots and poor heat transfer → overheating without obvious external leak.
- Cracked plastic tanks or failed seals: internal/external leakage and pressure loss.
- Bent/crushed fins or crushed tubes: lower airflow/heat transfer → higher operating temps.
- Failed pressure cap: reduced boiling point → vapor formation and loss of cooling efficiency.
- Why replacement fixes it:
- A new radiator restores proper flow paths, sealing, pressure integrity and full core surface area. That re-establishes correct coolant volume and heat rejection capacity. If leaks, replacement eliminates leak source; if blockage, new core restores flow; if plastic tanks are damaged, a new unit removes the structural failure.

2) Preparatory checks and safety (do these first)
- Park on level ground, engine cold. Wear gloves/eye protection. Hot systems cause burns.
- Verify symptoms: Overheat history, visible leaks, low coolant level, coolant contamination (oil/milkiness).
- Gather parts/tools: new radiator (OEM or direct-fit), new hoses/clamps if aged, replacement O-rings for transmission lines if applicable, coolant, drain pan, funnels, pliers, socket set, screwdrivers, trim tools, torque wrench for fasteners, rags.
- Environmental note: capture and dispose coolant per regulations.

3) Ordered procedure with theory at each step
0) Battery: disconnect negative terminal. (Prevents fan activation and electrical shorting; safe to work near radiator fan and electrical connectors.)
1) Relieve system pressure and drain coolant
- Remove radiator cap only when cold. Open drain petcock at bottom of radiator or remove lower hose to drain into a pan.
- Theory: Removing contaminated coolant reduces mess and prevents pressurized ejection. Draining exposes lowest point so fluid can be removed.
2) Remove any obstructing bodywork
- Remove grille/bumper or trim as required for access on D-Max (many models require front bumper or upper mounts removal).
- Theory: access to top mounts, fan shroud, and hose connections requires clearance.
3) Disconnect fan assembly and shroud
- If mechanical fan (belt-driven), remove fan clutch/bolts and possibly loosen fan hub; for electric fan, unplug connector and unbolt shroud/fan assembly.
- Theory: fan and shroud occupy the space ahead of the radiator; they must be clear to extract the radiator without damaging the fan.
4) Disconnect hoses and lines
- Upper and lower radiator hoses: loosen clamps and detach. Be ready for residual coolant.
- Heater hoses if routed to radiator or interfering.
- Transmission cooler lines: on D-Max with AT, these may be bolted into radiator. Use line wrenches and cap/plug lines to avoid ATF loss. Replace O-rings.
- Overflow tube and any sensor connectors (coolant temp sensor, fan switch) — remove and label.
- Theory: hoses and lines are the coolant circulation path. Disconnecting isolates the radiator from the system and prevents fluid transfer while removing the core.
5) Unbolt radiator mounting brackets
- Remove top/bottom mounting bolts, rubber isolators, and any cross-braces. Note orientation.
- Theory: radiator is suspended; remove mounts to free it, while supporting its weight so it doesn't tear fittings.
6) Remove radiator
- Carefully lift/tilt radiator forward/backwards to clear condenser/A‑C lines if fitted. Avoid bending fins and damaging the A/C condenser.
- Theory: physical removal of failed heat exchanger. Keep it upright to minimize residual fluid spill.
7) Inspect related components (do this before installing new radiator)
- Check fan clutch, fan blades, shroud, hoses, clamps, thermostat, water pump, and A/C condenser for damage. Flush heater core if needed.
- Theory: many overheating/radiator failures are accompanied by or caused by other degraded parts. Replacing radiator without fixing contributing causes risks repeat failure.
8) Prepare new radiator
- Transfer fittings, mounts and sensors from old to new if required. Fit new O-rings on transmission lines and lubricate lightly with ATF or coolant as appropriate.
- Theory: correct seals prevent future leaks; reused brittle fittings cause future leaks.
9) Install new radiator
- Position in vehicle, align mounts, secure bolts to proper snugness (do not over-torque plastic). Reconnect all lines but leave upper hose loose if you plan to burp from top — you can snug after initial fill and burp.
- Reinstall fan/shroud and any bodywork removed.
- Theory: proper positioning ensures correct airflow and prevents vibration fatigue; secure mounts prevent stress fractures.
10) Reconnect electrical connectors and sensors
- Plug in fan sensor, temp sensor, fan resistor if present.
- Theory: fan operation and temperature monitoring depend on correct wiring.
11) Refill coolant and bleed air
- Use OEM-specified coolant and correct mixture. Fill slowly to reduce trapped air. Use bleed/vent screws if present. Run engine to operating temperature with heater on high to open thermostat and circulate, topping up as air is expelled.
- Theory: air pockets reduce heat transfer and can trap heat in the engine (hot spots). Bleeding restores full coolant volume and removes insulating air.
12) Pressure-test and leak-check
- Use a hand pressure tester or run engine to operating temp while observing for leaks at all hoses, fittings, transmission cooler lines and radiator seams.
- Theory: pressure testing verifies the new component holds system pressure and that no fittings leak under operating conditions.
13) Final steps
- Recheck coolant level when cold and after a short drive. Re-torque clamps/bolts if necessary. Properly dispose of old coolant and old radiator.

4) How the repair fixes specific faults (concise mapping)
- Pinhole/core leak → New core: restores seal integrity; eliminates external coolant loss and pressure drop.
- Cracked plastic tank → New tank/core assembly: removes structural failure point that allowed leakage or pressure degradation.
- Internal blockage/sludge → New radiator + system flush: restores internal flow and heat exchange surface area; removing deposits prevents recirculation of debris.
- Damaged fins/airflow obstruction → New core: restores convective heat transfer; also corrects reduced airflow from crushed fins.
- Transmission fluid overheating/leak (if internal cooler failed) → New radiator and new line O-rings: restores ATF cooling and eliminates cross-contamination/leaks.

5) Tips to prevent recurrence (brief)
- Use correct, OEM-specified coolant and change intervals. Avoid mixing incompatible coolant chemistries.
- Replace old hoses and clamps when replacing radiator.
- Check and replace pressure cap if old.
- Inspect electrical fan operation and thermostat function; fix water pump or belt issues promptly.
- Pressure-test cooling system and verify heater core for internal contamination.

6) Common gotchas
- Never open a hot radiator cap — severe scald risk.
- Transmission cooler line fittings require correct O-rings; leaking ATF often follows overlooked seals.
- A/C condenser is directly in front of radiator; avoid bending it when removing or installing radiator.
- Trapped air after refit is the most common cause of repeat overheating — be thorough bleeding.

Done.
rteeqp73

### Overview of Ball Joint Replacement

**What is a Ball Joint?**
A ball joint is a crucial component of your vehicle's suspension system. It connects the control arm to the wheel hub and allows for smooth movement of the suspension as well as steering. Think of it like a ball-and-socket joint in your body (like your shoulder), allowing for a wide range of motion while supporting weight.

### Why Ball Joint Replacement is Needed

**Why Repair?**
Ball joints can wear out over time due to constant stress, dirt, and lack of lubrication. When they wear, they can cause:

- **Poor Handling:** The vehicle may feel loose or unstable.
- **Uneven Tire Wear:** This can lead to premature tire replacement.
- **Noise:** You may hear clunking or popping noises from the front end of the vehicle.

### Symptoms of a Worn Ball Joint

- Excessive play or movement in the wheel.
- Clunking noises when going over bumps.
- Uneven tire wear.
- Steering issues, such as pulling to one side.

### Tools and Components Required

**Tools:**
1. Jack and jack stands
2. Lug wrench
3. Socket set (including deep sockets)
4. Wrench set
5. Ball joint separator (pickle fork)
6. Hammer
7. Torque wrench
8. Grease gun (if the new joint is greaseable)
9. Safety goggles and gloves

**Components:**
1. New ball joint (make sure it's the correct part for your model)
2. Cotter pin (if applicable)
3. New nuts and bolts (if necessary)

### Step-by-Step Ball Joint Replacement

#### 1. Preparation
- **Safety First:** Wear gloves and safety goggles. Ensure you have a clean workspace.
- **Gather Tools and Parts:** Make sure you have all required tools and the new ball joint ready.

#### 2. Lift the Vehicle
- **Loosen Lug Nuts:** Before lifting, slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheel where you're replacing the ball joint.
- **Jack Up the Vehicle:** Use a jack to lift the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.
- **Remove the Wheel:** Completely remove the loosened lug nuts and take off the wheel.

#### 3. Access the Ball Joint
- **Locate the Ball Joint:** It's usually at the bottom of the steering knuckle.
- **Remove the Cotter Pin:** If there’s a cotter pin securing the ball joint nut, use pliers to remove it.

#### 4. Remove the Ball Joint Nut
- **Use the Socket/Wrench:** Remove the nut holding the ball joint to the steering knuckle. Keep this nut for reinstallation unless it's damaged.

#### 5. Separate the Ball Joint
- **Use Ball Joint Separator:** Position the separator between the steering knuckle and the ball joint.
- **Apply Force:** Tap the separator with a hammer if necessary to break the joint free. Be careful to avoid damaging surrounding components.

#### 6. Remove the Old Ball Joint
- **Unbolt the Joint:** If the ball joint is pressed into the control arm, you may need to unbolt it. Otherwise, simply pull it out from the steering knuckle.

#### 7. Install the New Ball Joint
- **Insert the New Joint:** Position the new ball joint into the control arm or steering knuckle.
- **Bolt it Down:** If it requires bolting, use new bolts for a secure fit.

#### 8. Reattach the Steering Knuckle
- **Reinsert the Ball Joint:** Place the ball joint back into the steering knuckle.
- **Secure with Nut:** Tighten the nut securely and insert a new cotter pin if applicable.

#### 9. Reassemble Everything
- **Reattach the Wheel:** Place the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- **Lower the Vehicle:** Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle back to the ground.
- **Torque the Lug Nuts:** Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.

#### 10. Test Drive
- **Check for Issues:** After replacing the ball joint, take the vehicle for a short test drive. Listen for unusual noises and check for proper handling.

### Recap of the Theory Behind the Repair
Ball joints allow for articulation in the suspension while supporting the vehicle's weight. Over time, they can wear out, leading to handling issues, noise, and uneven tire wear. Replacing them restores proper function and safety.

### Conclusion
Replacing a ball joint may seem daunting, but by following these steps and understanding the function and importance of the component, you can successfully perform the repair. Always ensure safety and adhere to manufacturer specifications throughout the process.
rteeqp73

### Clutch Release Bearing Replacement on Isuzu D-Max

#### Theory Behind the Repair

**What is the Clutch Release Bearing?**
The clutch release bearing, also known as the throw-out bearing, is a crucial component in the clutch assembly of your Isuzu D-Max. It allows the clutch to disengage when you press the clutch pedal, enabling smooth gear changes.

**How the System Works:**
- **Clutch Components:** The clutch system consists of the clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch disc, pressure plate, and the release bearing.
- **Functionality:** When you press the clutch pedal, hydraulic fluid is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, which pushes the release bearing against the pressure plate. This action disengages the clutch, allowing you to change gears.

**Why Replacement is Needed:**
Over time, the release bearing can wear out due to:
- **Friction:** Continuous engagement and disengagement create wear.
- **Heat:** Excessive heat from the clutch can cause the bearing to fail.
- **Contamination:** Dust and dirt can enter the bearing, causing it to grind and wear prematurely.

**Symptoms of Failure:**
- Grinding or squeaking noises when the clutch is engaged.
- Difficulty in engaging or disengaging gears.
- Vibration in the clutch pedal.

### Tools and Components Required

#### Tools:
1. **Socket Set:** Metric sockets (10mm to 19mm).
2. **Torque Wrench:** To ensure proper tightening of bolts.
3. **Pliers:** For removing clips and hoses.
4. **Screwdrivers:** Flathead and Phillips.
5. **Jack and Jack Stands:** For lifting the vehicle safely.
6. **Clutch Alignment Tool:** Ensures the clutch disc is centered when reassembling.
7. **Brake Cleaner:** For cleaning components.

#### Components:
1. **Clutch Release Bearing:** New bearing to replace the old one.
2. **Clutch Kit (optional):** Includes clutch disc and pressure plate if worn.
3. **Pilot Bearing:** Sometimes replaced simultaneously.
4. **Transmission Fluid:** For refilling after reassembly.

### Step-by-Step Replacement Process

#### Preparation:
1. **Safety First:** Park the vehicle on a flat surface, engage the parking brake, and disconnect the battery.
2. **Lift the Vehicle:** Use a jack to raise the front of the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.

#### Disassembly:
1. **Remove the Transmission:**
- **Disconnect Components:** Remove the driveshaft, starter motor, and any electrical connectors attached to the transmission.
- **Unbolt the Transmission:** Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine. Support the transmission with a jack and carefully slide it away from the engine.

2. **Remove the Clutch Assembly:**
- **Unbolt the Pressure Plate:** Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel. Note the order of removal.
- **Take Out the Clutch Disc:** Once the pressure plate is off, slide the clutch disc out.

3. **Access the Release Bearing:**
- **Remove the Release Bearing:** The release bearing may be attached to the fork or the transmission casing. If it’s on the fork, pull it off gently. If it’s pressed into a housing, you may need to use a puller.

#### Installation:
4. **Install the New Release Bearing:**
- **Position the New Bearing:** If it sits on a fork, slide it onto the fork. If it fits into a housing, ensure it's seated correctly.

5. **Reinstall the Clutch Assembly:**
- **Place the Clutch Disc:** Position the new or existing clutch disc onto the flywheel.
- **Align with the Tool:** Use the clutch alignment tool to ensure proper alignment.
- **Attach Pressure Plate:** Bolt the pressure plate back onto the flywheel, tightening in a crisscross pattern for even pressure.

6. **Reattach the Transmission:**
- **Guide the Transmission:** Carefully align it with the engine and slide it back into place. Ensure the input shaft fits into the clutch disc.
- **Bolt the Transmission Back On:** Reinstall the bolts, securing it to the engine.

#### Final Steps:
7. **Reconnect Components:** Reattach the driveshaft, starter motor, and any electrical connectors.
8. **Refill Transmission Fluid:** Check the level and add fluid if necessary.
9. **Lower the Vehicle:** Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
10. **Reconnect the Battery:** Reconnect the negative terminal.

#### Testing:
1. **Start the Vehicle:** Turn on the engine and press the clutch pedal, checking for smooth engagement and disengagement.
2. **Test Drive:** Take the vehicle for a test drive, ensuring that you can shift gears without issues.

### Conclusion
Replacing the clutch release bearing is a manageable task with the right tools and knowledge. Regular maintenance can prevent premature wear, ensuring your Isuzu D-Max operates smoothly. Always refer to your vehicle's service manual for specific torque specifications and procedures.
rteeqp73