- Scope and quick summary
- What this covers: how to inspect, measure, de-glaze (hone) or decide if you need a rebore/sleeve job on the cylinder walls of a Massey‑Ferguson MF35 engine, using basic tools plus a few specialty items. Includes detailed tool descriptions, how to use each tool, and which replacement parts are commonly required and why.

- Safety and prep (short)
- Work in a clean, well‑lit, ventilated area on a flat surface; have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Disconnect battery, drain coolant and oil, and cap or plug openings to keep dirt out.
- Label and bag fasteners and small parts; take photos during disassembly for reassembly reference.

- Tools you will definitely need (detailed descriptions and how to use)
- Socket set and spanners (open/box end)
- Description: metric/imperial sockets and ratchet plus combination wrenches.
- Use: remove head bolts, manifold bolts, pump brackets. Use correct size to avoid rounding fasteners. Work methodically and keep fasteners together by location.
- Torque wrench (click‑type)
- Description: calibrated wrench that clicks at the set torque value.
- Use: tighten head bolts and main caps to manufacturer torque; prevents warping or under/over tightening. Set to specified torque when reassembling.
- Screwdrivers and pry bars
- Description: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, small pry bars.
- Use: remove hoses, pry off covers and gaskets gently.
- Engine hoist or strong lifting point + proper sling (if you remove the engine)
- Description: shop crane or lifting gear rated for the tractor engine weight.
- Use: lift the engine from the block if you choose to remove the engine for easier machining. Not strictly required for cylinder hone if you work with engine in place but recommended for more comfortable, safer work.
- Feeler gauges
- Description: set of thin metal blades for measuring small gaps (mm/inch).
- Use: checking piston ring end gap by placing ring in cylinder and sliding feeler gauge into the gap.
- Vernier caliper (digital recommended)
- Description: handheld caliper for outside/inside/step measurements, accuracy ~0.01 mm or 0.001".
- Use: rough measurements of pistons, cylinder diameters and ring gaps; not sufficient alone for bore wear precision but useful for quick checks.
- Dial bore gauge and outside micrometer
- Description: dial bore gauge for checking internal bores; outside micrometer used to set/calibrate the bore gauge on a setting ring or standard.
- Use: measure bore diameter at multiple depths and angles to determine taper and out‑of‑round. Dial bore gauge is the correct tool for checking whether a cylinder needs re‑bore.
- Straightedge and feeler blades
- Description: machined straight bar and feeler gauge set.
- Use: check cylinder head and block deck flatness when reassembling.
- Flexible ball hone (flex hone) or rigid single‑stone hone
- Description: hand‑held rotating hone with abrasive balls (flex hone) or single‑stone tool for cross‑hatching.
- Use: de‑glaze and produce a light cross‑hatch on cylinder walls to help oil retention and ring seating. Can be used by a beginner with a drill if done carefully; removes very small amount of material only.
- Scraper and gasket remover
- Description: metal or plastic scraper and chemical gasket remover.
- Use: clean old gasket material from mating surfaces; keep surfaces clean and flat.
- Compressed air and blow gun / shop vac
- Description: compressed air for cleaning debris, and a vacuum to remove chips.
- Use: blow out and vacuum debris after honing — essential to prevent abrasive contamination.
- Piston ring compressor
- Description: band or adjustable tool that compresses piston rings around piston for reinstallation.
- Use: compress rings uniformly and allow piston to be pushed into the bore without damaging rings.
- Soft‑face hammer and wooden dowel
- Description: rubber or plastic mallet and wooden block.
- Use: gently tap pistons into bores; never strike rings directly.
- Clean rags, high‑quality engine assembly lube and clean engine oil
- Description: lint‑free rags, lubricant for reassembly, oil for final lubrication.
- Use: keep surfaces clean and lubricated on reassembly.

- Specialty tools you may need and why (and whether you can avoid them)
- Machine shop or vertical boring machine / cylinder boring bar
- Description: industrial machine that bores cylinders to oversize concentric, removing larger material to restore roundness/taper.
- Use: required if cylinders are scored deeply, worn beyond small tolerance, or if out‑of‑round exceeds safe limits. This cannot be done accurately with hand tools — take the block to a machine shop.
- Avoid? For light de‑glazing/honing you can avoid it; for large wear you cannot.
- Cylinder sleeve installation tools (if sleeving)
- Description: press and heating tools to insert wet/dry liners; often done by machine shop.
- Use: required only if block is too damaged and needs new liners.
- Valve spring compressor (if removing head valves)
- Description: tool to compress valve springs to remove retainers.
- Use: only needed if full head disassembly is performed.
- Engine stand
- Description: support that holds engine so you can rotate and work on it.
- Use: recommended if you pull the engine from the tractor.

- Step-by-step procedure (practical sequence, still bullets)
- Remove cylinder head and other components to expose pistons and bores
- Drain fluids, detach intake/exhaust/manifolds, remove head bolts in proper sequence (reverse torque sequence if known), lift head off; set head on a clean surface and label parts.
- Remove oil pan and timing cover if needed to access connecting rods; rotate engine so pistons are at convenient positions.
- Remove pistons (if you will inspect bores with pistons out)
- Mark piston and rod pairing and orientation (each piston rod is matched to a journal).
- Remove rod caps and push piston out from top carefully, catching piston and rod assembly; keep bearings and keep orientation marks.
- Clean and visually inspect cylinder walls
- Use good light and a magnet‑back flashlight to inspect for scoring, deep scratches, scuffing, or glazing (mirror‑like surface).
- Light cross‑hatch glaze appears smooth and shiny — this is normal but needs de‑glazing. Deep grooves or metal transfer require further action.
- Measure cylinder bore with dial bore gauge and micrometer
- Calibrate bore gauge with micrometer or setting ring; measure bore diameter at top, middle and bottom at 0°, 90°, 45° positions to detect taper and out‑of‑round.
- Compare to factory spec in the service manual; as a rule of thumb, if taper or out‑of‑round exceeds ~0.05–0.10 mm (0.002–0.004") the bore likely needs machining (check manual for exact limits).
- Check piston and ring condition and measure pistons
- Clean piston grooves and inspect ring lands for wear. Measure piston diameter with caliper/micrometer and compare to bore to determine piston clearance.
- Measure ring end gaps by placing each ring in the bore (square it with piston) and measuring gap with feeler gauge or caliper. If gaps exceed spec, rings or pistons likely need replacement or reconditioning.
- Decide: hone (de‑glaze) or rebore/sleeve
- Hone if: bores are within service limits, no deep scoring, only glazed surface and small irregularities. Hone will remove a very small amount of material to restore cross‑hatch.
- Re‑bore/sleeve if: deep scores, significant taper or out‑of‑round beyond spec, or pistons are worn beyond allowable clearance. These require machine‑shop work and oversize pistons/rings or new sleeves.
- How to hone correctly (if you choose to hone)
- Use a flexible abrasive hone with the correct grit (typically 120–220 grit for light honing).
- Mount hone in a variable‑speed drill or dedicated hand hone driver; keep tool perpendicular to bore and run it in and out slowly while spinning at the recommended speed; do not rapidly push — use steady in/out strokes so the hone creates a uniform cross‑hatch.
- Create a 25°–35° cross‑hatch pattern to assist oil retention. Use cutting oil throughout; keep strokes consistent and do not dwell in one spot.
- Remove only a small amount: you are de‑glazing, not removing large volumes. Frequently measure bore to ensure you are not exceeding acceptable limits.
- Thoroughly clean everything afterward: use hot soapy water, a stiff nylon brush, compressed air, and solvents until no abrasive grit remains. Replace oil and filters before running engine to avoid abrasive contamination.
- Reassembly basics
- Install new piston rings if required (observe top/middle/oil ring orientation), lubricate rings and bores with oil.
- Use piston ring compressor and mallet/dowel to seat pistons slowly until connecting rods align with journals; torque rod caps to spec.
- Install new head gasket and torque head bolts in correct sequence to spec using torque wrench.
- Refill oil and coolant and run engine briefly while checking for leaks, then re‑check torque as specified in service manual after a warm‑up if required.

- When you definitely need parts replaced and why
- Piston rings
- Why: worn or broken rings cause low compression and excessive oil consumption; inexpensive and normally replaced whenever honing or major engine work is done.
- Replacement: new ring set matched to piston/bore size (standard or oversize if bored).
- Pistons
- Why: scuffed or deformed pistons exceed clearance or have damaged ring lands; a worn piston will not seal even with new rings.
- Replacement: new pistons sized to bore. If bores are rebored oversize, get pistons at that oversize.
- Cylinder liners (sleeves)
- Why: block may be worn or cracked; liners restore cylinder size and surface.
- Replacement: sleeves require machining and correct installation; usually done at a machine shop.
- Head gasket and other gaskets/seals
- Why: always replace when head is removed to ensure proper sealing.
- Replacement: full gasket set for head and valve cover, intake/exhaust gaskets.
- Main and rod bearings
- Why: if engine shows signs of bearing wear (noise, oil pressure drop) or if you are removing pistons, inspect and replace if out of spec.
- Replacement: matched bearings to crank journal size.
- If rebore performed: oversized pistons and rings or new liners
- Why: oversize pistons are required to match the new larger bore; liners may be used instead of oversize pistons.
- Replacement: follow machine‑shop recommendation and factory service manual for oversize sizes.

- When to send it to a machine shop (short)
- If measurements show taper/out‑of‑round beyond spec, deep scoring into the metal, cracked liners, or you need sleeves inserted — take the block to a reputable shop. They have the boring/honing, alignment, and balancing equipment you cannot replicate safely at home.

- Tips for a beginner (concise, practical)
- Get the MF‑35 engine service manual for exact tolerances and torque specs.
- If uncertain about measurements, take the block and pistons to a machine shop for a professional assessment before buying parts.
- Cleanliness is critical: abrasive grit left in the engine will cause rapid wear.
- Work methodically: mark every rod/piston and their orientation; use new head gasket and torque correctly.

- Common failure signs that led to cylinder work
- Excessive oil consumption, blue smoke, low compression on a cylinder, knocking or rapid loss of power, visible deep scoring when head is removed.

- Final practical note (very brief)
- Light honing/de‑glazing is beginner‑doable with a flexible hone, careful measuring, and cleaning. Reboring, sleeving, or head/block machining requires a machine shop and oversize parts. Always replace rings and gaskets when doing cylinder work.


rteeqp73

### Tools Needed:
1. **Wrench Set** (typically 10mm and 12mm)
2. **Screwdriver Set** (flat-head and Phillips)
3. **Fuel Line Wrench** (if applicable)
4. **Fuel Container** (for any spilled fuel)
5. **Rags** (for cleaning and absorbing spills)
6. **Safety Glasses**
7. **Gloves**
8. **New Fuel Filter** (if replacement is needed)

### Safety Precautions:
- **Work in a well-ventilated area** to avoid inhaling fumes.
- **Wear safety glasses and gloves** to protect against fuel exposure.
- **Disconnect the battery** before starting work to prevent electrical sparks.
- **Have a fire extinguisher** nearby when working with fuel.
- **Avoid open flames** or sparks in the work area.

### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation:**
- Ensure the tractor is turned off and cooled down.
- Disconnect the battery to avoid any electrical issues.
- Gather all tools and safety equipment.

2. **Access the Fuel Rail:**
- Locate the fuel rail on the MF35, typically found on the engine near the fuel injector.
- Remove any protective covers if necessary.

3. **Drain Fuel:**
- Place a fuel container underneath the fuel line to catch any spilled fuel.
- Using a wrench, carefully disconnect the fuel line from the rail, allowing residual fuel to drain into the container.

4. **Remove the Fuel Rail:**
- Unscrew the bolts or nuts holding the fuel rail in place using the appropriate wrench.
- Gently pull the fuel rail away from the engine, taking care not to damage any attached components.

5. **Inspect and Clean:**
- Inspect the fuel rail for any cracks or damage. Replace if necessary.
- Clean the mounting surfaces and ensure there is no debris or old fuel residue.

6. **Replace the Fuel Filter (if required):**
- If the fuel filter is clogged or old, replace it by detaching it from the fuel line and installing a new one.

7. **Install the New Fuel Rail:**
- Position the new or cleaned fuel rail back into place.
- Secure it using the previously removed bolts or nuts, ensuring they are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.

8. **Reconnect Fuel Lines:**
- Reattach the fuel line to the fuel rail. Use a fuel line wrench if necessary to avoid damaging the fittings.
- Ensure all connections are tight to prevent leaks.

9. **Reconnect the Battery:**
- Reconnect the tractor battery, ensuring all connections are secure.

10. **Test for Leaks:**
- Turn on the ignition (without starting the engine) to allow the fuel pump to prime the system.
- Check all connections for leaks. If any leaks are detected, turn off the ignition and fix the issues.

11. **Start the Engine:**
- Start the tractor and let it run for a few minutes, monitoring for leaks or issues.
- If everything is functioning correctly, you’re done.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not draining fuel properly** can lead to spills and safety hazards.
- **Forgetting to reconnect the battery** can lead to starting issues.
- **Over-tightening bolts** can damage the fuel rail or mounting points.
- **Neglecting to check for leaks** before starting the engine can lead to fire hazards.
- **Ignoring the condition of the fuel filter** can result in future performance issues.

### Replacement Parts:
- **Fuel Rail**: Only replace if damaged.
- **Fuel Filter**: Recommended to replace if old or clogged.

Always refer to the specific service manual for the MF35 for any specifications or torque settings.
rteeqp73

Ordered, theory‑focused procedure to repair the rear stabilizer (sway/stabiliser) bar on a Massey‑Ferguson MF35 and why each action corrects the fault.

Summary of function and common faults (theory)
- Function: the stabilizer bar links the lower lift arms/drawbar ends and limits side‑to‑side movement of implements and arms while allowing vertical travel. It keeps implement geometry stable and prevents shock loads from being transferred into the lift system.
- How failure shows up: lateral play in lift arms or implement, clunks when driving over bumps, uneven implement tracking, accelerated wear of lift arm bushes/pins or linkage welds.
- Root causes: worn/ovalised bushings or pins, corroded bores, loose or broken fasteners, cracked welds, bent bar or linkage, or incorrect adjustment.

Tools and parts (prepare before starting)
- Basic mechanic set: wrenches/sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench
- Hammer, drift/punches, pin puller
- Hydraulic jack and axle stands or rear lift to safely support tractor/implement
- Press or suitable arbor/bench vise for pressing bushings, or driving tools and new sleeves
- Replacement parts: stabilizer bushings (poly/bronze/nylon per spec), new pins/bolts, locknuts or castle nuts and cotter pins, greaseable bushes if original, new stabilizer bar or link if bent/cracked
- Wire brush, solvent, rust remover, anti‑seize, grease
- Welding gear (only if qualified) or access to a competent welder for cracked mounts
- Manufacturer service manual for torque specs and clearances

Step‑by‑step with theory and explanation of how each repair fixes the fault

1) Inspect and confirm the fault (diagnosis)
- Action: visually inspect stabilizer bar, link ends, bushings, pins, welds. Raise rear slightly so tires leave ground; try to move lift arms/implement laterally and rock the stabilizer bar by hand. Note any clunks or excessive free play.
- Theory: direct inspection locates worn interfaces. Feeling play isolates whether the looseness is in the bar bushings, the link pins, or the lift arm mounts. This distinguishes where repair must be done.

2) Safety and preparation
- Action: park on level ground, set park brake, chock wheels, disconnect PTO, lower implement, and secure tractor with stands/jack. Remove or disconnect implements attached to lift arms if necessary.
- Theory: stabilizer work can release stored loads — safe support prevents sudden movement and damage. Removing implements isolates the system and prevents extra forces.

3) Remove load and prepare to unfasten the stabilizer
- Action: relieve any hydraulic pressure, lower any raised lift arms, remove cotter pins and retaining clips, unbolt the stabilizer end fittings or link pins. Note orientation and spacers so you can reassemble exactly.
- Theory: removing the bar under no load prevents bending or uncontrolled movement during removal and preserves reference geometry for correct reassembly.

4) Remove stabilizer from tractor and strip components
- Action: withdraw pins, slide out bar from its mounts or drop the crossbar from its hangers. Remove bushings/bearing sleeves, clean parts, and remove rust/debris.
- Theory: stripping lets you inspect the mating bores and bushings directly to decide whether to replace bushings, bore sleeves, or the entire bar. Dirt and corrosion often increase play — cleaning reveals true condition.

5) Measure and inspect components
- Action: check bushing diameters, pin diameter, bore roundness/ovalisation, bar straightness, and weld integrity. Look for hairline cracks at welds and fatigue at welded pad locations. Compare wear to new parts if possible.
- Theory: play arises from increased clearances (bushing bore ovalisation) or reduced material strength (cracked welds, bent bar). Measuring tells you whether reaming/sleeving, bushing replacement, or full component replacement is needed.

6) Decide repair method (replace vs repair)
- Action/theory options:
- Worn bushings/bored seats: press in new bushings or fit sleeves; this restores original bore diameter and fit, removing free play between bar and mount.
- Worn pins: replace with new hardened pins of correct diameter; new pins re‑establish tight joint tolerances.
- Bent bar: if slight bend, a controlled straighten can restore geometry – but repeated metal fatigue makes replacement safer. Straightening restores alignment so both lift arms share load equally.
- Cracked welds or broken mounts: repair by competent welding and post‑weld machining or replace mount assembly; restores structural continuity and load path.
- Theory: restoring original clearances and structural strength removes unwanted degrees of freedom and eliminates shock concentrations.

7) Install replacement bushings/pins or sleeve bored bores
- Action: press or drive in new bushings to specified depth, fit new pins/bolts, use grease‑able bushings if available, apply anti‑seize where appropriate, and replace cotter pins/locknuts.
- Theory: proper interference fit or correct clearance bushing returns the joint to designed stiffness. Greasable bushes maintain lubrication which reduces wear and keeps tolerances longer.

8) Reassemble stabilizer and set geometry
- Action: refit the stabilizer bar to mounts. Reinstall spacers and shims exactly or use new ones to set the bar centrally. Adjust any turnbuckle/adjuster on the stabilizer arms so lift arms have minimal sideplay but can move vertically; tighten all hardware to factory torque (consult MF35 manual).
- Theory: correct centering and torque lock the geometry so both lift arms pivot equally. If one side is longer/tighter, the implement will pull to one side; proper tension prevents slack that makes clunks and wear.

9) Torque, lubrication, and final checks
- Action: torque fasteners to spec (use manual values). Grease new fittings until grease appears at seal faces. Check that there is minimal lateral play but free vertical travel. Reinstall any removed implements.
- Theory: controlled torque ensures clamping force without crushing bushings; lubrication reduces friction and wear which would recreate the fault.

10) Dynamic testing and confirmation
- Action: with the tractor supported or on ground, cycle the three‑point (raise/lower) and drive over a short test area at low speed with load/implement attached. Listen for clunks and re‑check play after a short run.
- Theory: under load the system reveals residual play or misalignment. Confirming under operating conditions guarantees the repair restored stiffness and proper load distribution.

How each specific repair fixes typical faults (concise)
- Worn bushings → replaced: eliminates excess clearance, restores lateral stiffness, removes clunking and uneven load transfer into lift arms.
- Worn/oval pins → replaced: restores concentric rotation and prevents hammering contact that enlarges bores.
- Bent bar → straightened/replaced: restores geometry so the lift arms remain parallel and the implement tracks true instead of being pre‑stressed to one side.
- Cracked welds or broken mount → welded/replaced: restores load path so forces are carried correctly without sudden failure.
- Incorrect adjustment → re‑set: ensures limited permitted sway, preventing excessive side loads or binding in the lift mechanism.

Maintenance to prevent recurrence
- Grease intervals: grease stabilizer bushes/pins per service manual (or every 50–100 hours). Keep bushings lubricated.
- Periodic inspection: check for play and cracked welds every few months or after heavy usage.
- Replace bushings proactively if you see increased movement; do not run with large clearances.

Notes and cautions
- Use MF35 service manual for exact torque values and part numbers.
- If weld repair is required, use a qualified welder and re‑check alignment; welded repairs on critical linkages must be properly done to avoid sudden failure.
- If unsure whether a bent bar is safe, replace it — fatigue can cause re‑failure.

This ordered approach diagnoses where the play originates, restores the design clearances and structural integrity, and sets the geometry so the stabilizer again limits lateral movement without restricting vertical travel — which is how the repair cures the symptoms you observed.
rteeqp73

What the crankshaft does — plain English
- The crankshaft converts the up-and-down motion of the pistons into rotation to turn the clutch/flywheel and transmission. Think of the piston/connecting-rod/crank as a set of offset seesaws: the piston pushes down on the connecting rod, the rod pushes on the crankpin (offset from the main journal) and the crank spins. The crank needs to be perfectly round, straight, and supported by oil-lubricated bearings so it can turn smoothly under load.

Why you would remove/repair the crankshaft
- Low oil pressure, knocking from the bottom end, metal in the oil, heavy blue smoke, sudden loss of power, or bearing noise all point to crank/rod/main bearing problems. If journals are scored, worn, or out of round, bearings will fail, oil film breaks down, metal-to-metal contact happens and damage accelerates. Repairing or replacing the crank is needed to restore the engine’s durability and oil pressure.

Main components you will meet and what each does
- Crankshaft: machined steel piece with main journals (ride in main bearings in the block), rod journals/crankpins (attach to connecting rods), counterweights (balance rotating assembly), oil galleries (passageways to supply oil to bearings), thrust surfaces (limit axial endplay).
- Engine block (crankcase): houses the main bearing saddles and oil passages; supports everything. Main caps hold the crank in place.
- Main bearings (shell bearings): halves of a bushing that line main journals; they form the hydrodynamic oil film that carries load.
- Rod bearings (big-end shells): same as mains but in rod big ends; support crankpins.
- Thrust washers/beads: control crankshaft axial movement (end float).
- Flywheel/flexplate: bolted to rear crank flange; transmits torque to clutch/transmission and may provide balance.
- Timing gear/chain or camshaft gear: meshes with cam/timing train; must be removed to drop the crank.
- Oil pump pickup and oil pump: draw oil from sump and supply pressure; crucial for crank lubrication.
- Oil seals (front/rear crank seals): keep oil in the sump and out of the bell housing.
- Connecting rods and pistons: connect pistons to crank — must be removed to free the crank.
- Sump/oil pan: catches oil and lets access to lower end.
- Fasteners (main cap bolts, rod bolts): high-strength bolts that clamp bearings; often torque-to-yield or need replacement if stretched.
- Bearings, spacers, dowels, woodruff keys: alignment and timing parts.

Theory of lubrication and bearing operation (simple)
- Bearings operate on a hydrodynamic oil film. When the crank spins, the geometry drags oil into a wedge-shaped gap that supports the load like a little air hockey puck floating on a thin cushion. If oil pressure drops, oil is contaminated, or clearances are wrong, the film collapses and metal contacts metal, causing heat, scoring, and failure.

Tools and supplies you’ll need (basics)
- Service manual for MF35 (torques, clearances, sequence, part numbers)
- Engine hoist or crane (if removing engine)
- Socket and wrench sets, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (capable of required torque)
- Dial indicator (to check crank runout)
- Micrometer or calipers (to measure journal diameters)
- Plastigage (for bearing clearances) or bore gauge
- Soft-faced hammer, pry bars
- Pullers (harmonic balancer/flywheel)
- Engine stand (recommended for full crank rebuild)
- Feeler gauges, straightedge
- Cleaning supplies (solvent, rags), compressed air
- New bearings, seals, gaskets, bolts (replace torque-to-yield bolts)
- Assembly lube
- Grinding/turning service (if crank needs journal grinding)
- Shop manual torque specs and clearance limits

General step-by-step: Remove, inspect, repair, reassemble
(Do this only if you’re equipped and comfortable; when in doubt, use a machinist or experienced tech. I’m giving the full sequence for an in-frame or out-of-engine rebuild; MF35-specific steps and bolt locations/tensions are in the shop manual.)

1) Preparation and safety
- Disconnect battery. Drain oil and coolant. Support tractor with blocks and chocks. Use engine hoist if removing engine. Work on a clean, level surface. Wear eye protection and gloves.

2) Access and external removal
- Remove hood, fan, fan belt, radiator hoses, starter, alternator (if fitted), generator, intake/exhaust manifolds as needed to access bell housing and rear of block.
- Remove clutch housing/footplate or transmission linkage so you can unbolt the bell housing from the crank/flywheel area.
- If removing engine: unbolt engine mounts and lift engine out on hoist onto an engine stand.
- Remove flywheel (hold/lock flywheel, remove bolts) — tag and keep alignment marks or key.

3) Timing train and front accessories
- Remove timing cover, timing gears or chain, and any front harmonic damper or pulley attached to crank. Mark timing relationships for correct reassembly.

4) Oil sump and oil pump
- Remove oil pan/sump and oil pump/pickup. Clean out metal debris. Inspect pickup screen for contamination.

5) Pistons and rods
- Rotate engine to bring each rod journal to bottom, remove rod cap bolts, and carefully push pistons up into the cylinders. Label rods/caps so you can return them to original position and orientation.

6) Main caps and crank removal
- Remove main cap bolts in the sequence recommended by the manual, keep caps in order (number and orientation). Lift out crankshaft carefully; it’s heavy and easy to nick journals. Put it on clean blocks or in V-blocks.

7) Clean and inspect parts
- Clean crank thoroughly with solvent. Inspect journals for scoring, discoloration (bluing = heat), pitting, cracks. Check counterweights and fillet radii. Use a dye-penetrant or magnetic particle inspection if cracks suspected.
- Measure journal diameters with micrometer at several points to detect taper or out-of-round. Measure main bore alignments in the block. Measure crank runout on a lathe or with dial indicator by supporting both ends — straightness important.

8) Measurements and decisions
- Compare measurements to limits in the manual. Typical outcomes:
- Journals within spec → polish lightly with crocus cloth, fit new bearings, reassemble.
- Journals slightly worn/tapered → grinder to first undersize and fit matching undersize bearings.
- Deep scoring, cracks, or excessive wear → crankshaft replacement or regrind/rebuild by machine shop.
- Check bearing clearances with plastigage when reassembling caps (see below).

9) Bearing and journal fitting (reassembly test)
- Install new main shells into block and caps dry (no oil). Position crank in place. Put small strips of plastigage on each journal, install and torque main caps to spec in the correct sequence. Remove caps and measure plastigage width to determine clearance. Clearance must be within manual limits (typical small-engine mains ~0.001"–0.003" but vary greatly—use the MF35 manual). If clearance out of range, either select different bearing shell thickness (undersize) or have crank reground.
- Same method with rod bearings and big ends.

10) Thrust and endplay
- Measure crank endplay (axial movement) with a dial indicator by pushing crank forward/back with a pry bar and measuring indicator. Thrust washers/spacers are used to adjust endplay. Acceptable endplay is specified in manual; too much or too little causes clutch/bearing issues.

11) Reconditioning options
- Polishing: for minor scoring, remove light marks with crocus cloth and a steady hand. This only works for light wear.
- Regrind: machine shop can grind journals to undersize and supply matching bearings.
- Straighten or replace: if severely bent or cracked, replace crank.

12) Final assembly
- Replace seals (rear/front) and gaskets. Clean all oil passages. Coat bearings and journals with assembly lube. Torque main caps and rod caps to specs in correct sequence. Install oil pump and set clearances/relief if required. Reinstall timing gear/cam with alignment marks. Reinstall flywheel and torque bolts properly (and use thread locker if required). Reattach everything in reverse order of removal.

13) Break-in and checks
- Prime oil system before first start — crank with starter removed or with priming tool so oil pressure reaches gauges. Check for leaks, correct oil pressure, no abnormal noises. Run at low rpm for initial break-in then progressively increase. Recheck torques and fluid levels after a few hours.

Common things that go wrong and how to avoid them
- Oil starvation: caused by clogged pickup, low oil level, failed pump, or large clearances. Prevent by regular oil/filter changes and checking pickup and pump condition.
- Dirty oil/contamination: metal particles score journals. Prevent with good filtration and clean rebuild practices.
- Improper clearances: too tight → lack of oil film and seizure; too loose → low oil pressure and noise. Always use plastigage/micrometer and manual limits.
- Mis-torqued caps or reused stretched bolts: leads to cap movement and bearing failure. Use new, correct bolts and torque in sequence with torque wrench.
- Bent/cracked crank: often from severe bearing failure or shock loads. If suspected, get a machinist to measure straightness and crack-test.
- Incorrect reassembly of timing: wrong timing causes catastrophic damage in interference engines. Mark gears and chain and follow manual.
- Wrong thrust clearance: too much axial play wears transmission/clutch and too little produces binding.

Practical tips for a beginner
- Work clean. Oil and metal chips are killers of bearings.
- Label everything and keep caps/rods in order — they are match-fit.
- Buy a service manual for the MF35 (it contains critical torque specs, clearances, and sequences).
- Use an engine stand and hoist to make the job safer and easier.
- Replace all bearings and seals when you touch the crank; don’t try to reuse old shells.
- If you’re unsure about grind vs replace, consult a good machine shop — they’ll measure and advise.
- Take photos during disassembly so you can reassemble correctly.

Final note
This is a full bottom-end job. If the crankshaft is only being removed to replace seals or do a minor job, many steps remain the same (sump off, remove timing/flywheel and possibly pistons). For a complete rebuild or crank replacement it’s safest to remove the engine and work on a bench or give the crank to a reputable machine shop for measurement/grinding and crack testing. Always follow the MF35 service manual for the exact torque values and clearance specifications.

No extra chatter — follow the manual, keep things clean, measure twice, and replace bearings and seals.
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