Mitsubishi Motors ended up being the sixth-biggest Japanese automaker while the nineteenth-biggest internationally by production. From October 2016 onwards, Mitsubishi happens to be one-third (34per cent) had by Nissan, and therefore a part of the Renault--Nissan--Mitsubishi Alliance.

Besides becoming the main Renault--Nissan--Mitsubishi Alliance, it is also an integral part of Mitsubishi keiretsu, formerly the biggest commercial group in Japan, therefore the organization ended up being initially created in 1970 from automotive division of Mitsubishi Heavy companies.

Mitsubishi Fuso Truck and Bus organization, which builds commercial class trucks, buses and heavy building gear, had been previously an integral part of Mitsubishi engines, but is today separate from Mitsubishi engines, and is had because of the German automotive company Daimler AG

Rigtht after the termination of the next globe War, the company gone back to manufacturing motors. Fuso coach manufacturing started again, while a tiny three-wheeled cargo automobile labeled as the Mizushima and a scooter called the gold Pigeon are additionally developed. However, the zaibatsu (Japan's family-controlled industrial conglomerates) are purchased to-be dismantled because of the Allied powers in 1950, and Mitsubishi Heavy sectors ended up being divided into three regional firms, each with an involvement in car development: West Japan Heavy-Industries, Central Japan Heavy-Industries, and East Japan Heavy-Industries.

East Japan Heavy-Industries began importing the Henry J, an inexpensive American sedan built by Kaiser Motors, in knockdown system (CKD) type in 1951, and proceeded to carry all of them to Japan when it comes to rest of this automobile's three-year manufacturing run. Equivalent seasons, Central Japan Heavy-Industries concluded an identical agreement with Willys (now possessed by Kaiser) for CKD-assembled Jeep CJ-3Bs. This bargain shown more durable, with certified Mitsubishi Jeeps in production until 1998, 30 many years after Willys themselves had changed the model.

Because of the start of the sixties Japan's economy had been gearing up; wages were rising and notion of family members motoring ended up being taking off. Central Japan Heavy-Industries, now-known as Shin Mitsubishi Heavy-Industries, have already re-established an automotive department in its head office in 1953. Today it was ready to establish the Mitsubishi 500, a mass-market sedan, to fulfill the new requirements from customers. They used this in 1962 using the Minica kei automobile together with Colt 1000, the very first of the Colt line of family automobiles, in 1963. In 1964, Mitsubishi launched its largest traveler sedan, the Mitsubishi Debonair as an extra vehicles mainly for Japanese market, and had been employed by senior Mitsubishi executives as an organization car.

Western Japan Heavy-Industries (today rebranded Mitsubishi Shipbuilding & Engineering) and East Japan Heavy-Industries (today Mitsubishi Nihon Heavy-Industries) have furthermore extended their particular automotive departments when you look at the 1950s, and the three are re-integrated as Mitsubishi Heavy companies in 1964. Within 3 years its production ended up being over 75,000 cars annually. After the effective introduction of the first Galant in 1969 and comparable gains featuring its commercial vehicle unit, it absolutely was decided that the team should create an individual operation to spotlight the automotive industry. Mitsubishi Motors Corporation (MMC) ended up being created on April 22, 1970 as a wholly owned subsidiary of MHI under the management of Tomio Kubo, an effective engineer through the aircraft unit.

The logo of three purple diamonds, shared with over forty other businesses in the keiretsu, predates Mitsubishi engines it self by almost a century. It absolutely was plumped for by Iwasaki Yatar, the creator of Mitsubishi, whilst had been suggestive of emblem of the Tosa Clan whom very first employed him, and because their own household crest ended up being three rhombuses stacked atop both. Title Mitsubishi () is composed of two parts: "mitsu" meaning "three" and "hishi" (which becomes "bishi" under rendaku) indicating "water caltrop" (also known as "water chestnut"), and therefore "rhombus", which will be reflected within the business's logo..

Produced in a provincial agriculture family members in Aki, Tosa province (now Kochi prefecture), Yataro Iwasaki (1835-1885) examined in reformist Toyo Yoshida, which influenced him with a few ideas about starting and building Japan through business and international trade. Through Yoshida, he found act as a clerk for the Tosa government, and was eventually marketed to monetary manager associated with Tosa clan's trading company in Nagasaki, accountable for dealing camphor oils and paper to get vessels, tools, and ammo.

Following the Meiji Restoration in 1868, which pushed the disbandment of shogunate's business passions, Iwasaki travelled to Osaka and rented the trading legal rights for the Tosa clan's Tsukumo Trading business. In 1870, the company used the name Mitsubishi advertisement organization (Mitsubishi Shokai, ) whenever Iwasaki became president, and in 1873, the company formally changed its name to Mitsubishi. Mitsubishi diversified quickly, getting most ships and expanding their passenger and freight providers. Iwasaki supported this new Japanese authorities, and Mitsubishi offered the ships that transported Japanese soldiers to Taiwan and later to place straight down a rebellion in Kysh. He started the Mitsubishi transport business, and got more ships and a big yearly subsidy through the government in return for carrying mail alongside products. With national help, he had been capable acquire more transport legal rights on profitable Shanghai route and drive away two big international delivery companies. Iwasaki taught his subordinates to "worship the guests" simply because they had been resources of revenue. He regularly amused dignitaries and cultivated buddies and business connections which later did your numerous favors.

Iwasaki started to diversify, investing in mining, ship restoration, newspapers, aquatic insurance, and finance, and developing the businesses that formed the foundation for the Mitsubishi business. The business bought into coal mining in 1881, by getting the Takashima mineto to produce fuel due to their substantial steamship fleet. Mitsubishi Kawase-ten, a financial exchange house that also engaged in warehousing, ended up being the forerunner of today's Mitsubishi lender and Mitsubishi Warehouse & Transportation. In 1884 Iwasaki leased the Nagasaki Shipyard and rebranded they Nagasaki Shipyard & Machinery work, enabling the organization to venture into full-scale shipbuilding. Iwasaki bought copper mines, and participated in developing the insurance coverage team this is certainly now Tokyo Marine and Fire. He also led the college that became the Tokyo institution of Mercantile Marine.

In 1885, Iwasaki shed control over their shipping organization within the aftermath of a political struggle which had buffeted Japan's marine transportation industry. The organization joined with a rival and became Nippon Yusen (NYK range), which later on gone back to the ranks associated with Mitsubishi companies. Similar 12 months, Iwasaki passed away of stomach cancer in the chronilogical age of 50.

After World War II, the Allied profession causes demanded that Japan's big commercial groups disband. Koyata Iwasaki resisted conforming to these needs, but passed on in 1945. Mitsubishi head office disbanded on September 30, 1946. The Mitsubishi holding business had been mixed, and the trading household fragmented into a huge selection of independent companies. These organizations abandoned the Mitsubishi title and emblem under pressure from profession causes.

In 1952, once the San Francisco serenity pact was determined, Japan regained a location in worldwide neighborhood. In 1954, over 100 businesses that were the main Mitsubishi trading house, joined to re-establish Mitsubishi firm. The main the different parts of Mitsubishi significant companies reunited in 1964. Firms which had abandoned the Mitsubishi name after the war started utilizing it, in addition to three-diamond logo, once more.

Mitsubishi is part of Japan's unprecedented financial gains during the 1950s and 1960s. As Japan modernized its power and items industries, the Mitsubishi business created Mitsubishi Petrochemical, Mitsubishi Atomic Power Industries, Mitsubishi Liquefied Petroleum petrol, and Mitsubishi Petroleum Development. Mitsubishi's old-fashioned focus on technological development directed it into newer fields eg room research, aviation, oceanography, information communications, computer systems, and semiconductors. Mitsubishi firms additionally became large-scale providers of consumer products or services.

In 1969, the Mitsubishi basis is founded to commemorate the centennial anniversary associated with founding associated with first Mitsubishi providers. Individual Mitsubishi organizations also supporting worthwhile trigger through their very own altruistic foundations. Mitsubishi pavilions have now been highlights of expositions in Japan since the historic EXPO'70 in Osaka in 1970. Mitsubishi organizations participate actively within the everyday lives of the communities they provide.

At the time of 2007, Mitsubishi firm, a member regarding the Mitsubishi Group, had been Japan's largest general trading organization (sogo shosha), with more than 200 basics of businesses in about 80 nations globally. Along with their more than 500 group organizations, Mitsubishi employs a multinational workforce of approximately 54,000 user. Mitsubishi has long been engaged in company with users around the globe in several sectors, like power, metals, machines, chemicals, ingredients and basic merchandise.

Mitsubishi Motors business may be the sixth biggest automaker in Japan and seventeenth largest in the world by worldwide product selling. It was created in 1970 through the automotive unit of Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.

Throughout its background, it has courted alliances with international partners, a method pioneered by their particular first president Tomio Kubo to motivate expansion, and proceeded by his successors. An important stake was offered to Chrysler company in 1971, which it presented for 22 many years, while DaimlerChrysler was a controlling shareholder between 2000 and 2005. Chrysler LLC (former DaimlerChrysler) goes on a joint-venture system with Mitsubishi Motors using its Dodge quality, and Jeep Patriot and Compass. Long-term joint production and technology certification deals with the Hyundai engine organization in Southern Korea and Proton in Malaysia were furthermore forged, during European countries, the business co-owned the greatest vehicle manufacturing plant within the Netherlands with Volvo for ten years when you look at the 1990s, before taking only ownership in 2001. Recently, Mitsubishi Motors made an alliance with PSA Peugeot Citroen.

Mitsubishi benefited strongly because of these alliances when you look at the 1970s and 1980s, increasing its yearly manufacturing from 250,000 to during 1.5 million models. Their stronger presence in south-east Asia implied they suffered a lot more than almost all of its competitors when you look at the aftermath of the 1997 East Asian economic crisis, and since then organization has struggled to consistently boost business and keep profitability.

Starting in 2009, the company marketed the i-MiEV to consumers. This all-electric mini car featured a lithium-ion battery pack that lived under the floor. Despite the fact they in the offing to provide this and then municipalities and companies at first, they certainly were able to provide the retail publish instead.

After that, they circulated the Outlander P-HEV that was a plug-in crossbreed. By 2016, it have worldwide selling of very nearly 120,000 products. By 2018, it saw amazing profits in the UK. The marketing figures were also greater than those in Japan. That is given that it qualified for a government subsidy and since it wasn't more high priced than a diesel option. It performed lack a sixth and seventh seat which some people wished for, but conserved drivers a bunch on the gas expense.

In 2018, the Mitsubishi Outlander was listed as an IIHS Top Safety Pick. Having said that, the Outlander PHEV got lower markings. Whilst roofing power ended up being rated 'great' and front crash coverage had been 'better,' both headlights and son or daughter chair anchors just received an 'Acceptable' score. The Mitsubishi Outlander Sport furthermore struggled using its ranks. They gotten the 'Good' marking in modest overlap front side, part, roof strength, plus chair restraints and seats. With that in mind, additionally obtained the 'Acceptable' tagging when it comes to driver-side tiny overlap front and child seat anchors. In addition to that, it just obtained the 'Marginal' markings for passenger-side little overlap front side and headlights.

By mid-2018, the Mitsubishi Eclipse mix was just rated on crashworthiness on the side and reasonable overlap front side. These two rankings are indexed as 'close.'

The Mirage 4-door hatchback gotten the 'great' score on every little thing but driver-side smaller overlap front for which they scored 'limited.' The Mirage G4 don't fare so well considering it not only had the 'Marginal' rating on driver-side tiny overlap and only an 'Acceptable' rating on part crashworthiness.

Brief overview and theory (why this repair is needed)
- Purpose: The starter motor’s job is to spin the engine’s flywheel fast enough for the diesel engine to begin its own combustion cycles. If the starter fails, the engine won’t crank or will crank poorly/erratically.
- Why it fails: Starters live in a harsh environment (heat, oil, vibration) and carry very high currents. Typical failure modes are electrical (bad solenoid, worn brushes, shorted windings), mechanical (worn bushings/bearings, worn pinion, damaged overrunning clutch/Bendix), or connection problems (bad battery, corroded cables, poor grounds). Diagnosis and repair restore reliable cranking and prevent damage to the flywheel or electrical system.

Analogy: The starter is like an electric drill with a clutch: the solenoid is the trigger that both engages the drill bit with the workpiece (pinion to flywheel) and powers the motor. If the trigger or brushes wear out, the drill won’t spin or will slip.

Main components — what each does (detailed)
- Battery and heavy cables: source of DC high current (usually 12 V on trucks/industrial vehicles). The heavy positive cable goes to the starter main terminal; the negative is grounded to the engine block.
- Starter relay/ignition switch: low-current operator that sends a small current to the starter solenoid coil to tell the starter to operate.
- Starter solenoid (mounted on starter or remote): a plunger + heavy contact assembly. When energized, the solenoid:
1) mechanically pushes the starter pinion (drive) into engagement with the flywheel ring gear, and
2) closes the heavy electrical contacts to connect the battery positive to the motor armature/field coils.
- Starter housing/drive housing: the case which supports the internals and mounts to the engine/gear housing. It holds the end-bearings/bushings.
- Field coils or permanent magnets: create the magnetic field the armature spins in. Older/heavier starters use field coils; some use permanent magnet assemblies.
- Armature: the rotating central shaft with windings and a commutator. It carries the high-current coils that interact with the magnetic field to produce torque.
- Commutator: segmented copper surface on the armature where brushes make sliding electrical contact. Transfers current to the armature windings and reverses current as it rotates.
- Brushes and brush springs: carbon blocks that press against the commutator to deliver current. They wear with use.
- Brush holder/insulators: holds brushes and springs in place and provides insulation.
- Pinion (drive gear): the small gear on the starter shaft that meshes with the flywheel ring gear to turn the engine.
- Overrunning clutch / Bendix drive: allows the pinion to spin free if the engine spins faster than the starter (prevents damage when the engine starts).
- Shaft bearings / bushings: support the armature; when worn they cause excessive endplay and rubbing.
- End frame / end cap: rear/front covers that keep components in place and often hold bearings/bushings and brushes.
- Solenoid plunger and shift lever: mechanical link between solenoid and pinion movement.

How the system works (step-by-step)
1. Turn the key (or starter switch): a small current energizes the solenoid coil.
2. Solenoid plunger moves: mechanical action pushes the pinion out along the starter shaft to mesh with the flywheel.
3. Solenoid closes its heavy contacts: battery is connected to the motor’s heavy terminal, powering the armature and field coils.
4. Motor spins: armature turns, pinion turns, ring gear turns — the engine cranks.
5. Release key: solenoid de-energizes, contacts open, springs retract pinion and cut motor power. Overrunning clutch ensures the starter is not driven by the running engine.

Common failure symptoms and their likely causes
- No sound at all when key turned: dead battery, blown main fuse, broken cable, bad ignition switch, or disconnected/poor ground.
- Single click or rapid clicking: weak battery or poor heavy connections causing voltage drop when under load.
- Solenoid clicks but motor doesn’t spin: bad motor (open windings, worn brushes), bad solenoid contact, stuck pinion, or engine seized.
- Motor spins but pinion doesn’t engage (free-spin): failed solenoid mechanical linkage, broken shift lever, or broken Bendix.
- Grinding noise during engagement: worn or misaligned pinion or damaged ring gear teeth. Continue cranking will destroy teeth.
- Starter continues to run after engine starts: sticking solenoid plunger or seized return spring — dangerous because it can damage starter/flywheel.
- Slow cranking: weak battery, high resistance in cables, worn brushes, internal drag (bearing/bushing wear), or heavy engine oil (cold conditions).

Tools, parts and supplies you’ll need
- Tools: basic metric socket set (including deep sockets), ratchets, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, bench vise (for bench testing & rebuild), hammer and drift for removing bushings if needed, puller for pinion or drive if fitted, torque wrench (important for final bolts).
- Electrical test gear: multimeter, battery load tester or known-good battery, jumper leads with insulated clamps, test light.
- Bench test setup: heavy-gauge lead to connect battery to starter main terminal; small lead to energize solenoid.
- Replacement parts: brushes, brush springs, bushings/bearings, solenoid (or solenoid kit), drive/pinion or Bendix kit, gasket/O-ring if any, new bolts if rusted or damaged.
- Consumables: solvent (degreaser), contact cleaner, fine sandpaper or commutator stone, dielectric grease, light engine oil/ high-temp grease (only on splines and bearings as specified), thread locker (if recommended).
- Safety: battery terminal puller (optional), insulated gloves, eye protection, shop rags.

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Disconnect battery negative terminal first and secure it away from battery. Never work on the starter with the battery connected. Removing the positive only is dangerous.
- Chock wheels and ensure the machine cannot move or start accidentally.
- Support the starter when removing top bolt — it can be heavy.
- When bench testing a starter, hold it in a vice and use insulated tools. Starter will spin and can jump if not secured.
- Keep clothing and body parts clear of the pinion and gear. Sparks can occur during bench tests; do this away from flammable solvents.

Removal procedure (general for Mitsubishi 6D34-T style starters)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, set parking brake, disconnect battery negative (-) terminal and secure it.
- Put the key in OFF position and remove.
- Clean around starter area to prevent debris entering components.
2. Identify and label wires
- Identify the heavy positive cable (to starter main terminal), the small solenoid trigger wire (from ignition), and any sensing wires.
- Mark them with tape/marker.
3. Remove wiring
- Remove the small solenoid terminal first (avoid shorts).
- Remove the heavy battery cable nut and disconnect the heavy cable. Cap the cable to prevent accidental grounding.
4. Remove mounting bolts
- Support the starter with one hand, remove the mounting bolts (there are usually 2 or 3 heavy bolts). Some starters have a threaded dowel or guide; note bolt orientation.
- Extract starter straight out; wiggle gently if stuck. If it’s seized due to corrosion, apply penetrating oil and let it soak.
5. Inspect mounting face and ring gear
- Clean mounting surface and inspect the ring gear teeth for damage while starter is out.

Disassembly for inspection and rebuild (bench)
1. Secure starter in a vise by the housing—do not clamp the armature.
2. Remove solenoid if you plan to test/replace separately (unbolt solenoid from starter housing).
3. Remove end cap / brush plate
- Remove screws or bolts securing the end cap to access brushes and commutator.
4. Inspect brushes and springs
- Brushes should move freely in their holders and have adequate length (compare to new brushes or manufacturer spec). If glazed, use fine sandpaper to clean the contact face. Replace if worn, cracked, or stuck.
- Springs should have normal tension; weak springs cause intermittent contact and arcing.
5. Remove armature
- After removing the end cap and field coil assembly (if applicable), slide out the armature. Look for scoring, burnt windings, or copper flaking at the commutator.
6. Inspect commutator
- Commutator should be smooth, concentric, and free of deep grooves. Light glazing can be removed with a commutator stone or fine emery and cleaned with solvent. Excessive wear, pitting, or deep grooving requires turning on a lathe or armature replacement.
7. Inspect field coils / magnets
- Field coils should have intact insulation; smell of burnt insulation or discolored varnish indicates overheating. Permanent magnets should be intact, and their housings not cracked.
8. Inspect bearings/bushings
- Check for axial and radial play on the armature shaft. Excessive play indicates worn bushings or bearings; replace bushings.
9. Inspect pinion and overrunning clutch
- Pinion teeth should be sharp and not mushroomed. Overrunning clutch should ratchet in one direction and allow free spin the other.
10. Inspect solenoid contacts
- Check the plunger and heavy contacts for pitting or burning. Clean or replace contact plate if badly pitted.

Testing (how to test components)
- Battery & cable tests: With a multimeter, battery at rest should be ~12.6 V. Under cranking (or load) it will drop but should stay above ~9.6 V for a healthy system; heavy voltage drop indicates weak battery or bad connection.
- Voltage drop test across cables: while cranking, measure voltage drop between battery positive post and starter main terminal; drop should be low (less than ~0.5 V ideally). Do the same from battery negative to engine block.
- Bench motor test: clamp starter in vice. Connect battery positive to the main heavy terminal; ground starter housing to battery negative. Briefly jumper from battery positive to solenoid trigger terminal to actuate. Proper behavior: pinion should extend and motor should spin rapidly. Do not run long durations — starter draws a lot of current.
- Solenoid coil resistance: measure across solenoid coil terminals (reference manufacturer spec). No continuity means an open coil.
- Armature growler test: detects shorted armature windings. If you don’t have a growler, you can spin and feel for rough spots and use a multimeter to check for continuity between commutator bars (should read low ohms) and check for shorts to shaft (infinite).

Rebuild and repairs (general steps)
1. Replace worn bushings/bearings
- Press out old bushings carefully (use a drift sized to the bushing, not the shaft). Press in new ones to factory depth and alignment. Ensure the new bushing material and size matches manufacturer spec.
2. Replace brushes and springs
- Install new brushes ensuring free movement. Seat them to the commutator by rotating the armature and/or using fine abrasive if required.
3. Clean or recondition commutator
- If minor glazing/use, sand lightly and clean. If out of round or heavily grooved, turn on a lathe or replace armature.
4. Service or replace solenoid contacts
- Clean small pitted surfaces with fine file or replace contact plate. Ensure plunger moves freely and springs work.
5. Replace pinion/overrunning clutch if faulty
- Install new pinion and ensure correct engagement travel on the shaft and free movement.
6. Lubrication
- Lightly grease the splines of the pinion and end of the shaft (manufacturer may specify light oil on sleeve bearings). Do NOT over-grease commutator/brush area — grease attracts dirt and insulates.
7. Reassemble carefully
- Refit armature, field coils/magnets, brush plate, end cap, and solenoid. Ensure all connections are tight and insulated. Use thread locker on mounting bolts if specified.
8. Final bench test
- Re-run the bench test and solenoid actuation test, listening for smooth spin and proper engagement.

Reinstallation
1. Clean mounting face on engine block and starter flange.
2. Position starter so pinion aligns with ring gear; slide into place. Some starters require aligning a dowel or guide.
3. Install bolts finger-tight, then torque them to manufacturer spec. If you don’t have exact spec, typical starter mount bolt torque for medium engines can range ~40–90 Nm; consult the service manual for the 6D34-T for exact values. Use medium-strength thread locker if bolt manufacturer calls for it.
4. Reconnect heavy battery cable to main terminal and tighten securely. Attach solenoid trigger wire and any sensing wires. Ensure all terminals are clean and tight.
5. Reconnect battery negative terminal last.

Post-installation tests and checks
- Turn ignition key to start: starter should engage smoothly, spin briskly, and disengage as soon as engine fires.
- Check for abnormal noises: grinding indicates misalignment; immediate shutdown and re-check recommended.
- After a few starts, re-check starter mounting bolts and cable nuts for tightness.
- Check for oil leaks near starter flange (oil can cause early failure).

Troubleshooting quick guide
- No crank, no click: check battery, main fuses, and ignition switch wiring.
- Click, no crank: battery under load or poor cable/ground. Do voltage drop tests.
- Motor spins but no engagement: solenoid linkage or Bendix failure.
- Grinding: inspect ring gear and pinion, realign or replace as needed.
- Slow crank: battery weak or internal starter drag (brushes, bearings), or high resistance in cables.

Maintenance tips to prolong starter life
- Keep battery and connections clean and tight; corrosion is a frequent cause of failure.
- Avoid repeated long cranking bursts — allow cool-down.
- Replace brushes and bushings proactively if engine mileage/hours and starter exhibits wear.
- Seal/repair oil leaks that soak the starter — oil contaminates brushes and insulation.
- Periodically check for loose mounting bolts and wire clamps.

Final checklist before calling it done
- Battery negative reinstalled and secured.
- All starter connectors installed and tight with good insulation.
- Starter mounting bolts torqued to spec.
- No strange noises upon cranking; starter disengages after start.
- No oil leaks or wiring chafing.
- Clean workspace and proper disposal of old parts.

If you want the exact torque specs, wire sizes, brush lengths, and resistance values for the Mitsubishi 6D34-T starter, consult the Mitsubishi service manual for that engine model — it gives precise measurements and tolerances specific to the starter model used on your unit.
rteeqp73

Short answer first: The Mitsubishi 6D34‑T is a turbocharged diesel — it does not use ignition coils (those are for spark‑ignition gasoline engines). The “ignition” equivalents on this engine are glow plugs and the fuel injection system. Below I’ll explain the theory, list and describe every relevant component, show symptoms that indicate a problem, and give a clear workshop‑style step‑by‑step procedure for diagnosing, testing and replacing glow plugs and related parts. Where diesel procedures differ from gasoline coil work I’ll call that out. No fluff.

Why you might think you need “ignition coils” and the theory
- Gas engines use spark from ignition coils to light the air/fuel mixture. Diesels use compression ignition: air is compressed until it’s hot enough to ignite diesel when fuel is injected. There are no coils.
- Diesel cold starting often needs help: glow plugs heat the combustion chamber or intake ports briefly before and during cranking to ensure reliable ignition in cold conditions. Think of glow plugs like a toaster element inside each cylinder that helps the fuel ignite until the engine reaches running temperature.
- The fuel injection system (pump, injectors, timing) is what actually “makes” the diesel burn — poor fuel delivery or timing problems show up as misfires, smoke and rough running, which a gasoline mechanic might mistake for bad coils.

Main components (detailed)
1. Glow plug (each cylinder)
- Parts: threaded body, heater element (tip), electrical terminal (top), usually a sealing washer.
- Function: electric heater that warms the combustion chamber or pre-chamber tip for starting. Rapidly heats when powered.
- Failure modes: open circuit (internal break), shorted element, carbon build-up causing sticking, corrosion of threads, broken studs.

2. Glow plug relay / glow control module
- Purpose: supplies current to glow plugs for the correct pre‑heat time and often monitors temperature or ECU input to control timing. Some systems have a dedicated relay plus timer or are ECU‑controlled.
- Failure: relay sticks, fails to supply current, or times out incorrectly; wiring faults cause intermittent operation.

3. Glow plug harness / connectors
- Multi‑wire cable that carries power from relay/ECU to individual plugs. May include a common bus and individual connectors.
- Issues: corroded pins, melted insulation, broken wires.

4. Battery and charging system
- Glow plugs draw high current; a weak battery or poor charging will cause insufficient heating.
- Problems: low voltage under cranking, slow heating, blown fuses.

5. Fuel injection system (why it matters)
- Components: fuel tank, lift pump, fuel filter, injection pump (mechanical inline or rotary, or electronic distributor/common‑rail controller depending on variant), high pressure lines, injectors (nozzle, nozzle holder).
- Function: deliver the correct amount of fuel at the right time into each cylinder.
- Failures here cause rough running, white/black/blue smoke, and poor starting — often misinterpreted as glow plug problems.

6. Engine management sensors that affect starting (if equipped)
- Intake air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, crank/cam sensors, ECU — these alter glow time or injection strategy.
- Faulty sensors can make the system underheat even with good plugs.

Why repair is needed / symptoms
- Hard cold starts (long cranking before firing).
- White smoke after start (unburned fuel because chamber too cold).
- Rough idle immediately after start that smooths as engine warms.
- Long cranking time under cold conditions.
- Glow lamp on dash not behaving normally (stays lit, flashes, or doesn’t illuminate).
- Diagnostic trouble codes if ECU-controlled glow system.

Tools & workshop supplies
- Multimeter (DC volts and ohms).
- Heavy‑duty test leads and clamp ammeter (for current draw test).
- Deep socket set and appropriate glow plug sockets (some glow plugs use hex, some square—use correct size).
- Torque wrench (for final tightening).
- Penetrating oil (for seized plugs).
- Clean rags, small wire brush, contact cleaner, dielectric grease.
- Anti‑seize compound only if manufacturer allows (many factory manuals advise none; check manual).
- Torque specifications / manufacturer service manual (for exact values).
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, warm engine caution, battery disconnect.

Diagnosis: safe checks before pulling anything
1. Visual & basic checks
- Disconnect battery negative to avoid shorts while working (especially if connectors are removed).
- Inspect glow plug wiring and connectors for burn marks/corrosion.
- Check battery voltage (should be 12.4–12.8 V at rest). Under cranking voltage should not fall dramatically.

2. Glow relay behavior
- With key on, note glow lamp: normal sequence is lamp on during pre‑heat, then off when ready. If lamp doesn’t light, check fuse and relay/ECU outputs.

3. Resistance test (bench)
- Remove connector from each glow plug.
- Using a multimeter set to ohms, measure between the plug terminal and the body (or engine ground). Good glow plugs typically show low resistance (often under a few ohms — many are ~0.5–5 Ω) — consult exact spec. An open (infinite) reading = bad. A dead short to ground is abnormal.
- If one plug is open while the others show continuity, that cylinder’s plug is bad.

4. Current draw test (best)
- With plug connected to its harness (or bench‑wired) apply battery 12V with ammeter inline. Typical draw per plug can be several amps (varies by design). If a plug draws noticeably less current or none, it’s bad.
- Note: do not leave a plug powered for long on bench—short duration tests only.

5. Injector vs glow issue differentiation
- If engine starts but runs poorly only when warm, suspect injectors. If hard cold start specifically, suspect glow plugs.
- Cylinder contribution test: with engine cranking, briefly disconnect an injector connector — rpm drop indicates that injector was contributing; no change suggests that injector may not be delivering fuel.

Workshop procedure — remove, test, replace glow plugs (step‑by‑step)
Preparations
- Gather correct new glow plugs and seals. Mark connectors so you return them to same cylinder.
- Let the engine cool enough to safely work but slightly warm can sometimes help free seized plugs (careful).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Accessing glow plugs
- On the 6D34‑T the plugs are mounted in the cylinder head. They can be under intake manifold runners or easily accessible under an engine cover — remove valve cover/air intake as needed (follow vehicle-specific disassembly to avoid breaking sensors).
- Clean the area around each plug thoroughly with compressed air and brush to prevent debris from falling into the cylinder when you remove the plug.

Removal
1. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connector from each plug. If connectors are tight, use penetrating spray and wiggle gently — don’t pull on the wires.
2. Use the correct deep socket and a long extension. Turn counterclockwise and back out slowly. If it resists, apply penetrating oil and let soak. Do not apply excessive sudden torque — corroded plugs can shear.
3. If a plug snaps off (safety note below), stop and follow extraction procedures; do not force with repeated hammering.

Testing removed plugs
- Measure resistance across terminal to body. Replace any with open circuit or out‑of‑spec reading.
- Bench heat test: apply 12V briefly and observe tip heating (warm). Use an ammeter if available to check current draw.

Installation
1. Clean threads in the head. Remove carbon or debris from the bore.
2. Fit new sealing washer (if used). Most plugs come with a new washer — always replace.
3. Lightly lubricate threads only if the manual allows (many manufacturers recommend no anti‑seize; if you do use one, apply sparingly and not on sealing surface).
4. Hand‑start the plug to avoid cross‑threading.
5. Torque to the manufacturer’s specified value. If you don’t have the spec, many glow plugs tighten to roughly 8–25 Nm depending on design — but this is only a guideline; find the exact value. Over‑torquing risks stripping the aluminum head threads; under‑torquing risks leaks and loosening.
6. Reconnect electrical connector; secure harness and routing away from hot parts.

After installation
- Reconnect battery.
- Turn ignition to pre‑heat and verify glow lamp behavior and that the relay engages quietly.
- Crank engine and confirm better cold starting. Check for error codes if ECU equipped.

Common things that go wrong during repair and how to avoid or fix
- Broken glow plug tip or snapped plug in head: very common on older diesel engines where plugs have seized. If a plug breaks off:
- Stop trying to unscrew; the remainder must be extracted using appropriate extractor tools or by a machine shop. Removal may require removing the head in worst cases.
- Use penetrating oil well ahead of work and warm the head gently (not red hot) to help free the plug.
- Stripped threads in cylinder head: usually from over‑torquing or cross‑threading. Helicoil/thread repair or cylinder head repair shop required.
- Electrical short when reconnecting harness: always disconnect battery beforehand and inspect insulation. Use dielectric grease to protect terminals.
- Incorrect re‑use of washers/seals: always replace sealing washers; reused washers leak or crush incorrectly.
- Improper torque: too low causes loosening/leaks; too high damages head. Use proper specs.

What else can be wrong that looks like bad glow plugs
- Weak battery or poor starter (insufficient cranking speed).
- Faulty glow relay or ECU control — plugs may be fine but not powered.
- Fuel contamination, clogged filter, failing lift pump or injection pump timing — these cause starting and running problems.
- Faulty coolant or intake air temp sensors causing incorrect pre‑heat behavior.

Analogy summary
- Glow plugs = toaster elements in each cylinder to help cold starts.
- Injection pump + injectors = kitchen faucet and nozzle that must deliver the right amount of fuel at the right time.
- The glow relay/ECU = the outlet and timer that only power the toaster for the needed time.

Final checks and best practices
- Always consult the factory workshop manual for the 6D34‑T for exact plug type, thread size, torque values and electrical specifications.
- Replace glow plugs as a set if several are marginal — mixed old/new can mask issues.
- Replace harness connectors or relay if any sign of overheating is present.
- Keep work area clean to avoid dropping dirt into cylinders.
- If you encounter seized or broken plugs beyond basic removal, plan on professional help — extraction can be destructive if done incorrectly.

Concise troubleshooting quick checklist
1. Battery voltage OK? (Yes/No)
2. Glow lamp behavior normal? (Yes/No)
3. Visual wiring/connectors OK? (Yes/No)
4. Individual plug resistance within spec? (Yes/No)
5. Current draw per plug normal? (Yes/No)
6. If No at any step, repair/replace the failed item; recheck starting.

That covers the theory, every ignition‑related component on a 6D34‑T diesel, common failure modes, how to diagnose and a workshop procedure for testing and replacing glow plugs (the diesel equivalent to “ignition coils”). If you need torque values or part numbers, consult the Mitsubishi/Fuso workshop manual for the exact vehicle/engine serial variant and I can summarize those numbers from that manual — but do not proceed with torque values from memory on critical fasteners.
rteeqp73

- **Safety Equipment**
- **Safety Goggles**: Protects your eyes from debris and dust.
- **Gloves**: Provides grip and protects your hands from sharp edges.

- **Basic Tools Required**
- **Jack**: To lift the vehicle. Ensure it has a sufficient weight rating for your Mitsubishi 6D34-T.
- **Usage**: Position the jack under the vehicle's jacking point and lift until the wheels are off the ground.
- **Jack Stands**: To support the vehicle securely while you work.
- **Usage**: Place jack stands under the vehicle after lifting it with the jack to prevent it from falling.
- **Lug Wrench**: To remove and install lug nuts on the wheels.
- **Usage**: Fit the wrench over the lug nut and turn counterclockwise to loosen or clockwise to tighten. Ensure you use the correct size for your lug nuts.

- **Wheel Balancing Tools**
- **Wheel Balancer**: A machine that determines where weights should be placed on the rim to achieve balance.
- **Usage**: Mount the wheel on the balancer, follow the machine's instructions to spin the wheel, and determine the balance point.
- **Wheel Weights**: Small weights that are added to the rim to balance the wheel.
- **Types**: Clip-on or adhesive weights, depending on the rim type. If the machine identifies a weight needed, select the appropriate type.

- **Additional Tools (if needed)**
- **Torque Wrench**: To tighten lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- **Usage**: Set the wrench to the recommended torque, and apply it to each lug nut in a crisscross pattern to ensure even tightening.
- **Tire Pressure Gauge**: To check the air pressure in the tires before balancing.
- **Usage**: Press the gauge onto the valve stem to get a reading and adjust pressure as necessary.

- **Procedure for Wheel Balancing**
- Remove the wheel using the lug wrench and set it aside.
- Inspect the tire for signs of wear or damage; if excessive wear is noted, a replacement tire may be needed.
- Check the valve stem for damage; replace it if it appears cracked or leaking.
- Mount the wheel onto the wheel balancer and follow the machine's instructions for balancing.
- Add wheel weights as indicated by the balancing machine.
- Reinstall the wheel on the vehicle, using the lug wrench to securely fasten the lug nuts.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
- Lower the vehicle back to the ground and remove the jack stands.

- **Replacement Parts (if necessary)**
- **Tires**: If the tires show signs of irregular wear, cracks, or bulges, replacement is necessary for safety and performance.
- **Valve Stems**: Replace if they are damaged or leaking to prevent air loss.

By following this guide and using the appropriate tools, you can effectively balance the wheels on your Mitsubishi 6D34-T.
rteeqp73