The Toyota Hilux (furthermore stylized as HiLux and typically as Hi-Lux) was a number of light commercial cars created and marketed because of the Japanese maker Toyota. Nearly all these automobiles are offered as pickup or cab chassis variants even though they could be configured in a variety of human anatomy kinds. Most region utilized the Hilux name for the entire life of the series however in North America, the Hilux name had been retired in 1976 in favor of Truck, vehicle, or lightweight Truck. In North America the favorite option package, the SR5 (Sport Rally 5-Speed), was colloquially utilized as a model title the truck, although the solution package was also used on other Toyota designs just like the 1972 to 1979 Corolla. In 1984, the Toyota Trekker, the camper form of the Hilux, is rebranded while the 4Runner in Australia and united states, and as the Hilux browse in Japan. In 1995, Toyota introduced a unique pickup design, the Tacoma in North America, discontinuing the Hilux/Pickup there. The 4Runner is now a complete SUV, as well as the more modern brands cannot look like the Tacoma.

The Hilux going manufacturing in March 1968 as the RN10 in short-wheelbase type with a 1.5 L system, making 77 PS (57 kW) in Japanese market spec, plus in Japan it had been offered by Toyota Japan dealership retail chains called Toyota shop and Toyopet shop. The modification towards the motor is enough for a claimed 130 km/h (81 mph) top speed. It was enhanced to a 1.6 L inline-four motor in February 1971.

In April 1969, a long-wheelbase variation was included with the product range. The short-wheelbase version also continuing in manufacturing for most more many years. The long-wheelbase version had not been obsessed about the united states market until 1972. The Hilux had been offered as an option to the Toyota Crown, Toyota Corona, and Toyota Corona Mark II situated pickups in Japan, because the Crown, Corona, and Corona Mark II are repositioned as traveler sedans.

Notwithstanding title "Hilux", it had been a luxury automobile only if set alongside the Stout. The Hilux had been engineered and put together by Hino Motors to change the sooner car that Hilux had been based on, labeled as the Briska in the market underneath the larger and elderly Stout -- they changed the Stout completely in some markets. For us marketplace, the actual only real system design is a consistent cab brief bed and all were rear-wheel drive. They put a normal vehicle setup of A-arms and coil springs in the front and a live axle with leaf springs in straight back. A four-speed guide transmission was standard.

The next redesign, in 1988, created a longer-wheelbase alternative, 3,099 mm (122 in) as opposed to 2,616 mm (103 in) for the regular wheelbase. Its single-piece cargo-box wall space removed the rust-prone seams which were present in prior products. The V6 Xtracab SR5 obtained engine Trend mag's Truck of the Year honor that season. The Xtra Cabs now featured most area behind leading seating versus last generation which let optional jump-seats for rear individuals, a feature much more consistent with rivals of times.

In 1991, US production began at the NUMMI plant in Fremont, Ca (the VIN on these automobiles begins with '4T'), but some vehicles offered in the us during the 91--95 model years remained stated in Japan (VIN starts with 'JT').

The Hilux obtained a minor facelift in 1991 (when it comes to 1992 design season), that has been a small grille change as well as the brand new Toyota emblem that were recently used.

It was in this generation that Toyota stopped the Hilux in america, changing they utilizing the newer Tacoma the 1995 model seasons.

Motors:

1988--1995: 1.8 L (1,812 cc) 2Y-U I4, 58 kW (79 PS; 78 hp) at 5,000rpm 140 N*m (100 lb*ft) at 3,200rpm
1988--1995: 1.8 L (1,812 cc) 2Y I4, 61 kW (83 PS; 82 hp) at 4,800rpm 140 N*m (100 lb*ft) at 2,800rpm (export markets)
1989--1997: 2.4 L (2,366 cc) 22R-E SOHC EFI I4, 84 kW (114 PS; 113 hp) at 4,600 rpm and 192 N*m (142 lb*ft) at 3,400 rpm
1989--1995: 3.0 L (2,958 cc) 3VZ-E V6, 112 kW (152 PS; 150 hp) at 4,800 rpm
1989--1997: 2.4 L (2,446 cc) 2L-II diesel I4, 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) at 4,200 rpm and 167 N*m (123 lb*ft) at 2,400 rpm
2.8 L (2,779 cc) 3L diesel I4, 67 kW (91 PS; 90 hp) at 4,000 rpm and 188 N*m (139 lb*ft) at 2,400 rpm

Volkswagen built and marketed all of them under the Volkswagen Taro title from February 1989 to March 1997.

This generation sold in Thailand due to the fact Toyota Hilux Mighty-X.

For marketing in Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela, the Hilux is produced in Colombia from 1994 to 1998 by the SOFASA providers (just equipped with the 2.4 l petrol motor). For business in Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay, the Hilux had been manufactured in Argentina from 1997 through 2005 (Zrate Plant -- both petrol and diesel motors). For business in Bolivia, Chile, Paraguay and Peru, the Hilux was imported from factories in Japan from 1989 to 1997 (petrol and diesel motors).

South US areas:

single taxi chassis (2WD, 4WD petrol motors) (Colombia and Ecuador)
solitary taxi long sleep (2WD,4WD, petrol and diesel motors) (all South US region; diesel engine unavailable in Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela)
xtra cab (2WD, 4WD, petrol) (best Bolivia)
crew taxi (2WD,4WD, petrol and diesel machines)(All South American region; Diesel engine unavailable in Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela)


Engines:

1998--2001 2.0 L (1,998 cc) 1RZ-E 8 Valve SOHC I4 (Hilux 'Workmate' models in Australian Continent) (42)
1998--1999 3.0 L (2,986 cc) 5L diesel I4, 72 kW (98 PS; 97 hp) (44)
1995--2004 2.4 L (2438 cc) 2RZ-FE 16-valve DOHC I4, 106 kW (144 PS; 142 hp) (42, 44)
1995--2004 2.7 L (2693 cc) 3RZ-FE 16-valve DOHC I4, 112 kW (152 PS; 150 hp) (44)
1995--2004 3.4 L 5VZ-FE 24-valve DOHC V6, 142 kW (193 PS; 190 hp)

The Hilux had been manufactured in Colombia for product sales in Colombia, Venezuela, and Ecuador from 1998 to 2005 because of the SOFASA team (with only petrol motors 2.7 L). In Venezuela and Ecuador, the single-cab 2WD chassis/long bed is named the Stout II). For marketing in Bolivia, Chile, Paraguay, Peru, it had been imported from Japan from 1998 through 2004 (petrol engined 2.7 L, and diesel-engined 2.8 L). This design had not been marketed in Argentina or Brazil considering that the fifth-generation Hilux had got a redesign and upgrade.

South United states markets:

single taxi framework (2WD, 4WD petrol motors) (for product sales in Colombia and Ecuador)
solitary cab lengthy sleep (2WD,4WD, petrol and diesel machines) (all South US nations)
Xtracab (4WD, petrol and diesel engines) (in Bolivia just)
team taxi (2WD,4WD, petrol and diesel machines)(all South US nations) (called the Hilux Millenium from 2002 through to the present)

Toyota moved production from the Hilux Mighty-X (fifth generation) towards the Hilux Tiger (6th generation) in the late 1990s making they the worldwide export hub. The Thailand-made Hilux Tiger went through listed here variations:

1998--1999: Hilux Tiger using 3.0 L 5L motor
2000--2001: Hilux Tiger using the 3.0 L 5L-E EFI system
2001: Hilux Tiger with 1KZ system (short-lived and straight away changed by D4D motor)
Late 2001 -- late 2004: Hilux Tiger SportCruiser with D4D engine

In 2005, Toyota ceased creation of the Hilux truck when it comes to Japanese marketplace. It was the past generation Hilux to be available (or built) in Japan.

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Replacing the head gasket on a Toyota 1RZ, 1RZ-E, 2RZ, or 2RZ-E involves several steps, each crucial for restoring the engine's integrity and performance. Here’s a theoretical overview of the process and the reasoning behind it:

### Understanding the Head Gasket Function

1. **Function**: The head gasket seals the combustion chamber and separates the engine oil and coolant passages. It ensures that there is no mixing of fluids and maintains compression within the cylinders.

2. **Failure Symptoms**: A blown head gasket can lead to coolant leaking into the cylinders (causing white smoke), oil mixing with coolant (creating a milky substance), loss of compression, and overheating.

### Steps to Replace the Head Gasket

#### 1. **Preparation and Diagnosis**
- **Identify the Problem**: Use diagnostic tools to confirm head gasket failure (compression test, coolant pressure test, etc.). This establishes the need for replacement.
- **Gather Tools and Parts**: Ensure you have a new head gasket, bolts, and necessary tools (wrenches, torque wrench, etc.).

#### 2. **Disassembly**
- **Remove Components**: Disconnect battery, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover, and timing components. This provides access to the cylinder head.
- **Drain Fluids**: Drain coolant and oil to prevent spills and contamination during the repair.

#### 3. **Cylinder Head Removal**
- **Loosen Head Bolts**: Use the correct sequence to avoid warping the cylinder head. This is important as improper removal can cause further damage.
- **Lift Cylinder Head**: Once the bolts are removed, carefully lift the cylinder head off the block.

#### 4. **Cleaning and Inspection**
- **Clean Surfaces**: Remove old gasket material from the cylinder head and engine block using a gasket scraper. Ensure both surfaces are flat and free of debris.
- **Inspect Components**: Check the cylinder head for warping or cracks (using a straight edge). If damaged, it may need resurfacing or replacement.

#### 5. **Installing the New Head Gasket**
- **Position the New Gasket**: Place the new head gasket onto the engine block, ensuring proper alignment with coolant and oil passages.
- **Reinstall Cylinder Head**: Carefully place the cylinder head back onto the block, ensuring it is aligned correctly with the dowel pins.

#### 6. **Reassemble Components**
- **Torque Head Bolts**: Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for torque sequences and values. This is critical to ensure an even clamp load across the gasket.
- **Reattach Other Components**: Reinstall the timing components, manifolds, and any other parts removed during disassembly.

#### 7. **Refill Fluids**
- **Add Oil and Coolant**: Refill the engine with oil and coolant, ensuring the correct types and amounts are used.

#### 8. **Testing**
- **Start the Engine**: After reassembly, start the engine and check for leaks, unusual noises, or warning lights. Monitor the temperature to ensure proper operation.
- **Pressure Test**: Conduct a coolant pressure test to confirm there are no leaks, verifying the integrity of the new head gasket.

### Conclusion
The head gasket replacement fixes issues caused by the failure of the original gasket, restoring the engine's ability to maintain proper compression and separate fluids. By following these steps and understanding the theory behind each action, you ensure a successful repair and the longevity of the engine. rteeqp73

### Transmission Fluid Flush for Toyota 1RZ, 1RZ-E, 2RZ, 2RZ-E

#### Tools and Materials Needed:
1. **Tools:**
- Socket set
- Wrench set
- Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
- Transmission fluid pump or siphon
- Torque wrench
- Oil catch pan
- Funnel
- Rags or shop towels

2. **Materials:**
- New transmission fluid (consult owner’s manual for specifications)
- New transmission filter (if applicable)
- New gasket (if applicable, often for the pan)

#### Safety Precautions:
- Ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface and securely lifted using jack stands if needed.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect against fluid spills.
- Work in a well-ventilated area, as transmission fluid can emit harmful vapors.
- Be cautious of hot components; allow the vehicle to cool if it has been running.

### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation:**
- Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
- Gather all tools and materials.

2. **Drain Old Transmission Fluid:**
- Locate the transmission pan beneath the vehicle.
- Place the oil catch pan underneath the transmission pan.
- Remove the drain plug (if equipped) or loosen the pan bolts to allow fluid to drain. Be cautious as fluid may be hot.

3. **Remove the Transmission Pan (if applicable):**
- If the drain plug is not available, remove the pan completely.
- Use a socket/wrench to remove the bolts securing the pan. Keep the pan level to avoid spills.
- Clean the pan and inspect for metal shavings or debris.

4. **Replace the Filter (if applicable):**
- Remove the old transmission filter by unbolting it.
- Install the new filter, ensuring it is seated correctly.

5. **Clean the Gasket Surface:**
- Scrape off the old gasket material from the transmission pan and housing using a plastic scraper to avoid damage.
- Clean the surface with a rag.

6. **Reinstall the Pan:**
- Place the new gasket onto the transmission pan or apply gasket sealant as needed.
- Reinstall the pan and tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications using a torque wrench.

7. **Flushing the System:**
- If using a fluid pump or siphon, connect it to the transmission cooler line (output line).
- Start the engine and allow it to idle. This will circulate the fluid.
- While the engine is running, begin pumping new transmission fluid into the transmission via the dipstick tube or another suitable location.
- Continue until clean fluid runs out of the cooler line. Ensure you have a catch pan to collect the old fluid.

8. **Check Fluid Levels:**
- With the engine running and the transmission in park, use the dipstick to check the fluid level.
- Add fluid as necessary to reach the correct level.

9. **Test Drive:**
- Take the vehicle for a short drive to circulate the new fluid.
- After driving, check for leaks around the pan and cooler lines.

10. **Final Check:**
- Recheck the fluid level and adjust if necessary.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Overfilling:** Check fluid levels with the engine running; too much fluid can cause foaming and erratic shifting.
- **Not Using the Correct Fluid:** Always refer to the owner’s manual for the type of transmission fluid recommended.
- **Neglecting to Replace the Filter:** Failing to replace the filter can lead to fluid contamination.
- **Ignoring Leaks:** Always check for leaks after completing the flush; address any leaks immediately.

By following these detailed steps, you can successfully complete a transmission fluid flush on a Toyota 1RZ, 1RZ-E, 2RZ, or 2RZ-E.
rteeqp73

- **Safety Precautions**
- **Work in a well-ventilated area:** This prevents inhalation of fuel vapors.
- **Wear safety goggles and gloves:** Protects eyes and skin from fuel.
- **Disconnect the battery:** Prevents electrical sparks during work.

- **Tools Required**
- **Wrench set:** Needed to remove bolts and nuts holding the fuel filter.
- **Screwdriver (flathead or Phillips):** Useful for any clips or brackets holding the fuel filter.
- **Pliers:** Helpful for removing hose clamps or any tight connections.
- **Fuel line disconnect tool (optional):** Eases removal of fuel lines without damaging them.
- **Container or rags:** To catch any fuel that may spill during the replacement.

- **Replacement Part**
- **Fuel filter:** You will need a new fuel filter specific for the Toyota 1RZ or 2RZ engine. Check your vehicle's manual or parts store for compatibility.
- **Hose clamps (if damaged):** If any clamps are rusted or broken during removal, replace them to ensure a secure fit.

- **Steps for Replacement**
- **Locate the fuel filter:** Typically found along the fuel line, near the fuel tank or engine. Refer to the service manual for exact location.
- **Relieve fuel pressure:** Remove the fuel pump fuse and start the engine until it stalls to relieve pressure in the fuel lines.
- **Disconnect the battery:** Again, ensure safety by disconnecting the negative terminal.
- **Remove the old fuel filter:**
- Use the wrench to loosen the bolts securing the filter.
- If hoses are attached, use pliers to remove the clamps.
- Carefully pull off the hoses and remove the filter. Be cautious of any residual fuel.
- **Install the new fuel filter:**
- Ensure the flow direction of the filter matches the original (there may be an arrow indicating flow direction).
- Attach the hoses to the new filter, securing with hose clamps.
- Tighten bolts firmly using the wrench, ensuring no leaks will occur.
- **Reconnect the battery:** Reattach the negative terminal.
- **Test for leaks:** Turn the ignition to the “ON” position (without starting) to pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks around the new filter.
- **Start the engine:** Ensure it runs smoothly without leaks.

- **Final Checks**
- If you notice any fuel leaks, turn off the engine immediately and inspect connections.
- Dispose of any old fuel filter and rags properly, following local regulations.
rteeqp73