Caterpillar Inc. are an American Fortune 100 company which designs, develops, engineers, manufactures, markets and sells equipment, machines, financial products and insurance to consumers via an international supplier system. This is the world's biggest building products producer. In 2018, Caterpillar ended up being ranked #65 in the Fortune 500 number and #238 regarding Global Fortune 500 listing. Caterpillar stock are a factor of this Dow Jones Industrial Average.
Caterpillar Inc. traces their origins to your 1925 merger of Holt production organization as well as the C. L. better Tractor Company, generating a unique entity, the California-based Caterpillar Tractor team. In 1986, the organization reorganized itself as a Delaware organization under the current title, Caterpillar Inc. Caterpillar's headquarters can be found in Deerfield, Illinois; they announced in January 2017 that over this course of this year it would relocate their head office from Peoria, Illinois, to Deerfield, Illinois, scrapping projects from 2015 of building an 0 million newer headquarters hard in downtown Peoria.
The organization furthermore licenses and markets a line of garments and workwear boots under its Cat / Caterpillar name. Caterpillar machines are familiar by their trademark "Caterpillar Yellow" livery in addition to "CAT" logo design.
On February 2, 1910, Holt exposed a plant in East Peoria, Illinois, led by their nephew Pliny Holt. There Pliny fulfilled farm apply supplier Murray Baker which understood of an empty factory that were recently built to make farm implements and vapor traction motors. Baker, who later on became initial government vice president of what became Caterpillar Tractor business, wrote to Holt head office in Stockton and described the plant for the bankrupt Colean production Co. of East Peoria, Illinois. On October 25, 1909, Pliny Holt purchased the factory, and immediately started procedures with 12 workers. Holt included it as the Holt Caterpillar business, although he did not trademark title Caterpillar until August 2, 1910.
The inclusion of a plant within the Midwest, regardless of the hefty money necessary to retool the plant, shown so lucrative that best couple of years later on the organization utilized 625 someone and ended up being exporting tractors to Argentina, Canada, and Mexico. Tractors were built-in both Stockton and East Peoria.
On January 31, 2017, after above 90 several years of becoming headquartered in Peoria, Illinois, the organization established plans to go their particular headquarters from Peoria to Chicago, Illinois by the end of 2017. The upper echelon of executives, like recently installed CEO Jim Umpleby, would start relocating later on that year, with up to 100 employees total moving by season's end. About 300 employees works inside brand new company at an as-yet undecided venue when the transition are total. The company indefinitely suspended planning for the latest Peoria head office in autumn of 2015 after announcing a restructuring work that required to 10,000 opportunities is slashed and about 20 facilities around the world to-be shut or consolidated. The changes added to .3 billion in discount in 2016, but product sales and earnings for just last year however are a lot more than 40 percentage below peak quantities of 2012. Umpleby said that decline was significant factor the company's Board of Directors chosen to go international headquarters to a place where in actuality the international marketplace is in much easier get to.
The banking institutions and bankers whom presented the company's big debt pushed the Holt board of directors to accept their particular applicant, Thomas A. Baxter, to ensure success Benjamin Holt. Baxter initially cut the big tractors through the company's brand and introduced modest systems dedicated to the farming marketplace. As soon as the government help Highway Act of 1921 financed a US billion national highway building system, Baxter began refocusing the company towards building roadway building products.:66 Both businesses also experienced intense competition through the Fordson company.
Between 1907 and 1918, ideal and Holt have invested about US.5 million in appropriate charges fighting each other in many contractual, trademark and patent infringement legal actions. Harry H. Fair associated with relationship brokerage home of Pierce, Fair & organization of San Francisco had aided to invest in C. L. Best's financial obligation and Holt shareholders approached your about their particular organization's financial difficulty. Fair ideal the two businesses should merge. In April and may also 1925, the economically more powerful C. L. Best combined using the marketplace leader Holt Caterpillar to make the Caterpillar Tractor Co.
This new business had been based in San Leandro until 1930, when underneath the terms of the merger it was moved to Peoria. Baxter was removed as CEO early in the day in 1925, and Clarence Leo Top presumed the title of CEO, and stayed because part until October 1951.
The Caterpillar company consolidated their products, promoting just five track-type tractors: the two Ton, 5 Ton, and 10 Ton from the Holt Manufacturing business's older manufacturer product line and the Caterpillar 30 and Caterpillar 60 from C. L. most readily useful Tractor Co.'s previous brand. The 10 great deal and 5 great deal brands had been stopped in 1926. In 1928, the two Ton ended up being stopped. Marketing the very first 12 months had been US million. By 1929, purchases climbed to US.8 million, and Caterpillar continued to develop throughout the Great despair regarding the 1930s.
Caterpillar followed the diesel system to restore fuel engines. During World War II, Caterpillar services and products discovered popularity aided by the Seabees, building Battalions of usa Navy, just who built airfields and other services when you look at the Pacific movie theater of procedures. Caterpillar rated 44th among united states of america corporations in worth of wartime armed forces manufacturing agreements. During post-war building growth, the company expanded at an immediate speed and established its first venture outside the U.S. in 1950, marking the beginning of Caterpillar's developing into a multinational firm.
Caterpillar has actually a listing of some 400 products for sale through their dealership system. Caterpillar's line of devices include tracked tractors to hydraulic excavators, backhoe loaders, engine graders, off-highway vehicles, wheel loaders, farming tractors and locomotives. Caterpillar machinery is employed in the construction, road-building, mining, forestry, energy, transportation and material-handling industries.
Caterpillar is the world's biggest manufacturer of wheel loaders. The method dimensions (MWL) and enormous size (LWL) were created at their particular Aurora, Illinois center. Moderate wheel loaders were produced at: Aurora, Illinois; Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan; Gosselies, Charleroi, Belgium; Piracicaba, therefore Paulo, Brazil; Asia therefore the People's Republic of China. Big wheel loaders are produced solely in the United States on three split set up outlines at Aurora, Illinois.
The Caterpillar Defence Products subsidiary, headquartered in Shrewsbury, great britain, produces diesel machines, automatic transmissions along with other components when it comes to British's Titan armored bridge level, Trojan combat manufacturing tank, Terrier combat manufacturing vehicles, and tank transporters; the Romanian MLI-84 armored personnel company and Swiss Piranha III light armored car, which is currently being created for use by US light armored formations; huge fleets of military vehicles both in the U.S. and British; and CV90 category of infantry fighting cars utilized by the armies of Sweden, Norway, Finland, Switzerland, the Netherlands and Denmark.
This unit in addition produces both propulsion motors and energy generation techniques on naval shipbuilding industry, like the Series 3512B turbocharged V-12 diesel engine for United states Virginia class atomic submarines. Caterpillar diesel motors may utilized in San Antonio course amphibious transportation docks, Spanish Alvaro de Bazn course frigates, British River class patrol vessels, Mexican Sierra class patrol boats, and Malaysian Kedah lessons MEKO A-100 offshore patrol vessels. The poor system protection of Caterpillar engines places America's submarine power vulnerable for cyberattack. In a current meeting on cybersecurity, the Navy clarified that Caterpillar actually has many of the very secure controls systems and will be utilized as a model of the way the Navy will layout cyber protections into its control methods.
IDF Caterpillar D9 armored bulldozer
Israel buys bulldozers for Israel Defense Forces (IDF) from Caterpillar through U.S. national foreign-aid profit their particular civil configuration. The military adjustments and the installment of automobile armor were complete entirely in Israel because of the IDF and Israeli security technicians (Israel Military sectors and Israel Aerospace Industries). The IDF uses numerous Caterpillar machines eg bulldozers, excavators, wheel loaders and graders mainly for engineering, earthworks and building work. More popular machine being used because of the IDF's fight Engineering Corps could be the heavier IDF Caterpillar D9 armored bulldozer, that will be being used also for eliminate manufacturing and overcome missions under fire.
The Israel security Forces' utilization of highly customized Caterpillar D9 bulldozers features led to Caterpillar being criticized by activists and some shareholders. In particular, the IDF Caterpillar D9 is taking part in an event in 2003, where US activist Rachel Corrie had been killed by a bulldozer. Case against Caterpillar by this lady family and groups of Palestinians, have been additionally killed by Caterpillar equipment, was unsuccessful. Case against Israel and Israeli Defense Ministry is rejected by the courtroom, ruling that the girl demise ended up being a major accident, due to limited field of view from the heavily armored operators' cabin. In 2014 Presbyterian chapel (American) offered their shares in Caterpillar citing the usage of Caterpillar bulldozers taking part in demolition and surveillance activities in the western Bank.
Caterpillar introduced the Challenger variety of agricultural tractors as the result of several development applications over a long time frame. This system were only available in the 1970s and included both D6-based devices and Grader energy products. A parallel program has also been building wheeled higher hp tractors predicated on utilizing the articulated loading shovel chassis had been second combined with the crawler employees. The effect had been the Challenger Tractor and the "Mobi-Trac" system.
The Challenger was sold in European countries as Claas machines since 1997, with Caterpillar marketing the Claas-built Lexion combine number in the USA. Claas and Caterpillar formed a joint endeavor, Claas Omaha, to build combine harvesters in Omaha, Nebraska, American under the CAT brand name. In 2002, Cat sold their stake to Claas, and licensed making use of pet additionally the CAT yellowish livery to Claas. These are generally marketed as Lexion combines today.
Furthermore in 2002, Caterpillar offered the Challenger monitored tractor business to AGCO and accredited employing the Challenger and pet names and livery in their mind. This finished pet's endeavor into farming.
Caterpillar products and elements become manufactured in 110 services globally. 51 vegetation can be found in the usa and 59 international flowers are found in Australian Continent (until 2015), Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Asia, Czech Republic, England, France, Germany, Hungary, Asia (Chennai), Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Mexico, holland, Northern Ireland, Poland, Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Sweden.
Caterpillar's historic production residence is in Peoria, Illinois, that also was the place of Caterpillar's globe headquarters and core analysis and development activities. Although Caterpillar have developed a lot of its regional section manufacturing and warehousing to 3rd parties, Caterpillar still has four biggest vegetation in the Peoria room: the Mapleton Foundry, where diesel motor obstructs and other large areas are throw; the East Peoria factory, with put together Caterpillar tractors for over 70 ages; the Mossville system plant, built after World War II; additionally the Morton areas center.
Caterpillar emerged close to bankruptcy in the early 1980s, at one-point losing nearly US million per day due to a-sharp downturn in product requirements as competitors with Japanese rival Komatsu increased. (At the time, Komatsu made use of the internal motto "encircle Caterpillar".) Caterpillar experienced further once the United States announced an embargo resistant to the Soviet Union after the Soviet intrusion of Afghanistan, evoking the providers becoming struggling to offer US0 million value of pipelaying equipment that had already been built.
As a result of radical fall in demand, Caterpillar started staff member layoffs, which led to strikes, primarily because of the people in the United automobile employees, against Caterpillar business in Illinois and Pennsylvania. Several news states at the time indicated that items are mounting up so high in services that substitution employees could barely render their way to their work programs.
In 1992, the United automobile employees performed a five-month attack against Caterpillar. Responding, Caterpillar threatened to replace Caterpillar's entire unionized work force. Over ten thousand UAW members hit again in 1994--1995 for 17 months, accurate documentation in those days. The strike ended because of the UAW choosing to go back to work without a contract despite record profits and profits by Caterpillar. In 1994, Caterpillar offered a contract into UAW users that could have lifted the wage of top workers from ,000 to ,000 annually. However, the UAW is pursuing similar top wage of ,000 that was compensated to staff at Deere & business in 1994.
During the hits, Caterpillar utilized control staff members in an attempt to maintain manufacturing. They suspended studies and developing services, sending thousands of designers along with other non-bargained for staff members into their manufacturing and assembly facilities to displace striking or closed on union customers.
Rather than continuing to battle the United car Workers, Caterpillar decided to making itself less in danger of the original bargaining techniques of organized labor. A good way ended up being by outsourcing a lot of their particular parts manufacturing and warehouse strive to external businesses. In another move, relating to UAW officials and business experts, Caterpillar began to execute a "south strategy". This involved starting newer, modest flowers, termed "focus services", in right-to-work shows. Caterpillar opened these latest facilities in Clayton and Sanford, vermont; Greenville, sc; Corinth, Mississippi; Dyersburg, Tennessee; Griffin and LaGrange, Georgia; Seguin, Tx; and North bit Rock, Arkansas.
In 2012, the business secured on staff at a locomotive plant in London, Ontario, Canada and required some take up to a 50per cent cut-in pay, in order to be cost-competitive with comparable Caterpillar production business in the United States. The move developed controversy in Canada, with some whining the plant ended up being obtained under untrue pretenses. Retail store Mark's jobs Wearhouse started pulling Caterpillar shoes from its racks thus.
On 1, 2012, 780 members of the Overseas connection of Machinists and Aerospace employees town Lodge 851 proceeded hit. An understanding ended up being achieved in August, leading to a 6-year wage frost. Striking workers indicated fury about the freeze given the company's record 2011 earnings and CEO Oberhelman's 60per cent wage enhance.
Caterpillar 10
Caterpillar 15
Caterpillar 20
Caterpillar 25
Caterpillar 30
Caterpillar 35
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Caterpillar 45
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D-series (diesel)
Caterpillar D3k2
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Motorgraders
Caterpillar 12H Worldwide
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Caterpillar 305.5ECR
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Caterpillar 306D
Caterpillar 307E
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Caterpillar 311F
Caterpillar 312EL
Caterpillar 314ELCR
Caterpillar 316EL
Caterpillar 318EL
Moderate Excavators
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Caterpillar 320ELRR
Caterpillar 321DLCR
Caterpillar 323EL
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Caterpillar 328DLCR
Caterpillar 329E
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Big Excavators
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Ultra-High Demolition Excavators
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Caterpillar 345D UHD
Caterpillar 365D UHD
Caterpillar 385D UHD
Caterpillar 390
Backhoe Loaders
Caterpillar 416
Caterpillar 428F2
Caterpillar 430F2
Caterpillar 432F2
Tracked Loaders (Traxcavators)
Caterpillar 931
Caterpillar 943
Caterpillar 951
Caterpillar 953
Caterpillar 955
Caterpillar 963
Caterpillar 973
Caterpillar 977
Caterpillar 983
Wheel Loaders
Caterpillar 910
Caterpillar 924G
Caterpillar 926
Caterpillar 930
Caterpillar 938
Caterpillar IT38
Caterpillar 950
Caterpillar 962
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Articulated Dump truck (ADT)
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Caterpillar 740B
Caterpillar 740B Ejector
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Rigid Dump Trucks
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Caterpillar 797
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Caterpillar 797F, the whole world's largest
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Rollers
Caterpillar CB14
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Caterpillar CB-224
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Caterpillar CS56
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On-road vehicles
Cat CT660
Draglines
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Drills
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caterpillar 1674 Diesel Engine | eBay
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Caterpillar C13 - Wikipedia
The Caterpillar C13 is an inline-6 diesel internal combustion engine made by Caterpillar. The engine is 12.5 liters in displacement (763 cubic inches). The cylinder size is 5.12 x 6.18 bore/stroke. The engine can produce 380-430 horsepower at 2100 RPM.
CAT 1674 SPECS - Truck & Transportation History
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Caterpillar D-343 Specs | It Still Runs
The Caterpillar D-343 is a large industrial grade diesel engine designed for marine applications, although it can also be found in applications such as diesel-powered power generators. Available in both a turbocharged and an aftercooled turbocharged edition, it combines fuel efficiency with a great deal of power, ...
caterpillar 1674 engine manuals and specifications
CATERPILLAR 1674 Diesel Engine workshop repair Manuals CAT 1674 disassembly assembly manual, 134 pages, click to download. CAT 1674 specification manual, 60 pages, click to download ... CAT 1674 Power and arrangement Power 270-325 hp, 201-242 Kw @ 2200 rpm Arrangement 6 cylinder in-line turbo intercooled Click for CAT 1674 engine manuals and specs
caterpillar 440 v8 engine?
The 1674 inline 6 was the next most plentiful, making 270hp. There was also the 1676 V8 that pre-dated the 3408 and it did have 340hp. The Cat 1673 was the first heavy duty automotive Cat diesel (debuting in 1960) with 240hp. Then there was the various incarnations of the 1100 series V8's that led up to the 3208 medium duty engine.
Caterpillar 1674 Engine - Engines Network
Caterpillar 1674 Engine Medium velocity engines as well as high velocity diesel engines are manufactured by caterpillar which is the world's major manufacturer of caterpillar engines. The ratings for these engines are accessible from 10 to 21,760hp that is 8 to 16,000 kW.
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Below is a clear, step‑by‑step guide to replacing an output shaft seal on a Caterpillar (Cat) 1674 — written for a beginner mechanic. I include why the job is needed, how the system and seal work, a detailed parts/component description, tools, stepwise removal and installation, inspection points, testing, and what commonly goes wrong. Note: exact fastener torques, seal part numbers, and fluid types are model/serial‑specific — consult the Cat 1674 workshop manual for those exact figures and parts.
Safety first (must do)
- Lock out and tag out the machine. Remove keys and disconnect batteries.
- Block/make safe any moving parts, support the machine and components securely with jacks/stands rated for the load.
- Relieve system pressure (hydraulic lines) and drain fluid into approved containers. Vent systems where needed.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots, and hearing protection.
- Work on a clean, flat surface with good lighting.
Why this repair is needed (theory)
- The output shaft seal’s job is to keep the lubricant (gear oil/hydraulic fluid) inside the gearbox/transmission/final drive and keep dirt, water and abrasive material out.
- A leaking seal causes lubricant loss, contamination ingress, bearing and gear wear, overheating and ultimately component failure. A small leak can escalate into bearing failure, shaft damage, and costly downtime.
- The seal is inexpensive relative to the components it protects — replacing a worn seal is preventative maintenance.
How the system and the seal work (simple theory + analogy)
- The output shaft transmits torque from the gearbox to the driven equipment (wheels, pump, etc.). The shaft goes through a housing that contains lubricant.
- The seal is typically a radial lip seal: imagine a tight rubber ring pressed against a rotating rod — its thin lip scrapes a microscopic film of oil back into the case while a spring keeps the lip pressed to the shaft. Like a water stop on a garden hose coupling — keeps water in while the hose spins.
- Seal lips + garter spring + shaft finish = the dynamic sealing interface. If any piece isn’t right (rough shaft, wrong lip orientation, hardened rubber), the interface fails.
Main components you will see and what each does
- Output shaft (shaft journal/spline): transmits torque; the precise diameter where the seal rides is the journal.
- Shaft journal surface/finish: the contact surface for the seal lip — must be smooth and true.
- Seal (radial lip seal): elastomer ring with a metal case; inner lip bears against shaft; sometimes double lip for dust exclusion.
- Garter spring: small circular spring in the lip keeps radial pressure on the shaft.
- Seal housing bore (seal seat): the bore in the casing where the seal presses in.
- Seal carrier / spacer / retainer plate: holds the seal in position in the housing.
- Bearings (adjacent to seal): support shaft rotating; often replaced or inspected during seal service.
- Snap ring/circlip: retains bearings/shafts and prevents axial movement.
- Gaskets / O-rings: static seals between housings.
- Coupling / hub / sprocket / flange: elements removed to access the seal.
- Lubricant (gear oil/hydraulic fluid): the fluid being retained.
- Breather/vent: prevents pressurization; blockage can push fluid past the seal.
- Fasteners: bolts, studs securing covers and retainers.
Tools and supplies (recommended)
- Basic hand tools: sockets, wrenches, breaker bar, screwdrivers.
- Torque wrench (for reassembly).
- Seal puller / picks, flat chisel for stubborn seals (use carefully).
- Bearing puller / gear puller (for hub/coupling removal).
- Soft‑face mallet, dead blow hammer.
- Seal driver set (or appropriate diameter pipe/wood block) to press seal in squarely.
- Micrometer/calipers for shaft diameter and bearing/shim measurements.
- Dial indicator and magnetic base (to check shaft runout).
- Clean rags, solvent/degreaser.
- Fine emery cloth (600–1200 grit) and scotchbrite for light polish only.
- Replacement seal (correct Cat part number), new gaskets/O‑rings, possibly a new bearing if worn.
- Assembly lube or compatible grease (thin film for the seal lip).
- Threadlocker / sealant per workshop manual.
- Drain pan, shop towels, safety gear.
Preliminary checks before starting
- Verify leak source: wipe dry, operate briefly and observe to ensure output shaft seal is the leak (not a flange, breather, or joint).
- Identify seal orientation before removal. Many seals have a fluid side that faces the lubricant — note this.
- Confirm replacement seal type and material (temperature/fluid compatibility). Do not assume one-size-fits-all.
Step‑by‑step removal (detailed)
1. Prepare: drain lubricant to below seal level and properly dispose. Remove obstructing attachments (couplings, hubs, sprockets, guards) so you have clear access to the seal area.
2. Mark locations: mark relative positions of flanges/hubs for reassembly alignment if required.
3. Remove retaining elements: remove bolts, snap rings, retainer plates, bearing covers in correct order. Keep components and fasteners organized.
4. Remove the hub/coupling: use an appropriate puller to remove any hub that covers the seal. Apply penetrating oil to rusted areas if needed.
5. Expose the seal: you’ll see the outer edge of the seal within the housing. Note orientation (which side faces the fluid).
6. Remove the old seal: use a seal puller or small pry tool under the metal case edge; pry evenly and carefully to avoid gouging the bore. If the seal is brittle, it may come out in pieces — remove all fragments.
7. Clean and inspect housing bore and components: remove debris, old gasket material and rust. Use solvent and rags.
Inspect the shaft and surrounding components
- Shaft journal: measure diameter with micrometer. Look for corrosion, scratches, pitting, scoring or flattening.
- Light damage: polish gently with very fine abrasive (wet emery, scotchbrite) in the circumferential direction to remove burrs. Clean thoroughly.
- Deep damage or out‑of‑round: shaft may need replacement, machining, or a repair sleeve. Do not install a new seal on a badly damaged journal — it will fail quickly.
- Bearing condition: check for play, noise, pitting. If bearings are old or contaminated, replace them while you have the unit apart.
- Housing bore: check for corrosion, burrs or ovality. A deformed bore will prevent proper seating.
Preparing the new seal and shaft
- Verify the new seal part number and orientation marking (some have arrows or “OIL” side).
- Lightly lubricate the inner lip with the correct assembly lube or the system oil to prevent dry start and to ease installation.
- Inspect seal for damage, and do not stretch or distort it.
Installation of the new seal (detailed)
1. Seat the seal: place seal square to the bore and use a proper seal driver sized to the seal outer diameter (or a wood/steel socket that contacts the metal case evenly) and tap gently with a mallet until flush with housing or to the depth specified in the manual.
- Important: keep the seal perfectly perpendicular to the shaft when driving it in. Tilt or uneven seating will cause leakage.
2. Verify the seal is fully seated and oriented correctly (lip toward fluid).
3. Reinstall any bearing retainers, snap rings, shims or spacers in the exact order they were removed. Replace gaskets/O‑rings every time.
4. Reinstall hub/coupling and torque fasteners to Cat spec. If torque specs are unknown, tighten hand to seat then check manual — do not guess high torque.
5. Reassemble guards and other removed items.
Reassembly checks and fluid fill
- Refill the housing with the correct fluid to the specified level. Use a clean funnel and new fluid to avoid contamination.
- Reconnect any disconnected lines, vents and battery as needed.
- If the unit has a breather, confirm it’s clean and not clogged — a blocked breather can pressurize the case and force fluid past the seal.
Testing and break‑in
- Rotate the shaft slowly by hand first to check for binding or noise.
- Start the machine and run at low speed; observe around the new seal for leakage.
- Monitor oil level after the first short test run and top up if needed.
- After an hour of operation, recheck for leaks, check for unusual smell/heat, and inspect nearby bearings for signs of contamination.
- Reinspect after 4–8 hours of operation and after the first day for small leaks.
Common failure modes and diagnosis (what can go wrong)
- Wrong seal orientation: installing the lip facing the wrong way leaks immediately.
- Damaged shaft journal: grooves and burrs quickly cut the seal lip causing leakage. Analogy: a razor blade dragging across rubber.
- Contaminants embedded in the interface: sand/grit will abrade the lip and shaft.
- Hardened/deteriorated seal: heat, ozone or incompatible fluids make the elastomer hard and brittle — the lip won’t conform.
- Overpressurization: blocked breather or internal pressure forces fluid past the seal.
- Improper seating: tilted or under/over‑driven seal leaks.
- Using wrong material seal: wrong elastomer swells or degrades in certain oils or temperatures.
- Damaged garter spring: if the spring fails, radial pressure drops and leakage occurs.
- Distorted housing bore or wrong seal size: leads to uneven sealing and failure.
- Reused damaged gaskets: causes leaks at mating surfaces that look like shaft leaks.
How to detect imminent problems early
- Regular visual checks for seepage and oil trails on housings and ground.
- Monitor lubricant level and top up often indicates leakage.
- Unusual noise or vibration — bearing contamination/loss of lubrication.
- Higher running temperatures can indicate low lubrication due to leaks.
When to replace bearings and associated parts
- Replace bearings if they show play, noise, roughness or discoloration from overheating.
- Replace adjacent O‑rings, gaskets and fasteners as needed. It’s good practice to replace bearing seals and gaskets while you have the housing open.
Quality tips and best practices
- Always use the OEM recommended seal part number and material.
- Work clean — small debris ruins seals and bearings.
- Never use silicone or thick grease on the running lip unless specified; use light assembly lube.
- If the shaft is slightly scored and you must repair, correct with a chrome sleeve or have the shaft machined — do not rely on polishing alone for deep damage.
- Replace the breather if contaminated.
- Document torque and shim positions for correct reassembly.
When to call a shop or replace components
- If the shaft is deeply scored, seriously corroded, or out‑of‑round.
- If housing bore is damaged or the seal won’t seat squarely.
- If the unit contains integral bearings or complex assemblies you are not confident disassembling.
- If you can’t obtain the correct seal material or exact workshop specs.
Final note
- This procedure covers typical output shaft seal replacement on Cat 1674 systems in a general way. Always cross‑check your steps with the Caterpillar 1674 workshop manual for model/serial‑specific instructions, torque values, part numbers and fluid specifications. Proper installation and attention to shaft condition are what make a seal last — replace related wear items when in doubt.
No yapping — done.
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Summary: Replace the water pump on a Caterpillar Cat 1674 by isolating power, draining coolant, removing drive components and fan/shroud, unbolting and removing the pump, installing the new pump with correct gasket/seals and torque sequence, refilling and bleeding the cooling system, and testing for leaks and proper operation. Follow OEM torque and sealing specs. Steps, required tools, safety items, how to use tools, replacement parts and common pitfalls below.
Tools & consumables needed
- Personal protective equipment (PPE): gloves (chemical resistant), safety glasses, steel-toe boots, coveralls.
- Lockout/tagout kit for battery and electrical isolation.
- Basic hand tools: metric/SAE socket set and ratchet (3/8" and 1/2" drives), combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (calibrated) covering required torque range.
- Breaker bar and short extension.
- Impact wrench (use carefully; do not final-torque with impact).
- Puller set / fan clutch/propeller puller (if fan or hub is pressed on).
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips).
- Pliers: hose clamp pliers, locking pliers.
- Pry bar and gasket scraper (plastic or brass recommended).
- Wire brush and shop rags.
- Drain pan and coolant recovery container.
- Funnel and bleed equipment (coolant funnel or vacuum fill/bleeder).
- RTV/sealant if required by OEM (use only what's specified).
- New gaskets, O-rings, and replacement water pump assembly.
- New coolant (Cat-approved engine coolant) and possibly new hoses/clamps if worn.
- Replacement bolts/washers if manufacturer calls for one-time-use fasteners.
- Anti-seize compound (for threads if specified) and thread locker if specified.
- Cleaning solvent/degreaser.
- Hoist or mechanical assistance if fan assembly is heavy.
Safety & preparatory precautions
1. Cool engine to ambient temperature — never open hot coolant system.
2. Disconnect and tag battery negative(s) to prevent accidental cranking/electrical hazards.
3. Isolate/lock out fuel and electrical systems per site procedures.
4. Work on a level surface, use wheel chocks if on a vehicle.
5. Collect coolant with proper container; prevent spills. Use absorbent pads and dispose of coolant per regulations.
6. Use appropriate lifting equipment for heavy components (fan, shroud). Two-person lifts when required.
7. Have a fire extinguisher nearby; no smoking near coolant/fuel areas.
Step-by-step procedure
1. Prepare
- Park machine and allow engine to cool.
- Tag out battery and disable starter circuit.
- Put on PPE. Place drain pan under radiator or lowest drain point.
2. Drain coolant
- Open drain cock(s) or remove lower radiator hose to drain coolant into an appropriate container.
- If engine has block/drain plugs, open them to fully remove coolant.
- Cap or plug hoses not being removed to minimize spills.
3. Remove obstructions
- Remove fan shroud(s) and any covers blocking access to fan and pump.
- Loosen and remove accessory drive belts (note belt routing or photograph).
- If fan is belt-driven or mounted to pump hub, loosen fan bolts. Use a fan clutch or hub holding tool to prevent rotation when removing bolts.
- If fan or fan hub is pressed on or uses a tapered hub, use appropriate puller to remove it. Use steady, even pressure; avoid hammering on shafts.
- Remove any brackets, sensors, or hoses attached to the pump housing (label hoses).
4. Access water pump
- Clean area around pump housing before unbolting to prevent debris entering cooling passages.
- Use appropriate socket to remove water pump mounting bolts. Note bolt lengths and locations.
- If bolts are corroded, apply penetrating oil and allow soak time; use breaker bar if needed. Avoid rounding bolt heads—use correct sized sockets.
5. Remove water pump
- Pry gently around the pump flange to break the gasket seal. Use plastic or brass pry tool to avoid gouging housing.
- Support pump assembly as bolts are removed—pump may be heavy or contain residual fluid.
- Remove pump and gasket; inspect mating surfaces for corrosion, pitting or old gasket material. Clean mating surfaces thoroughly with scraper and wire brush; wipe with solvent.
6. Inspect and prepare replacement parts
- Compare new pump to removed assembly; check impeller orientation and shaft play. Pump bearings should not have excessive play or noise.
- Replace thermostat, hoses, hose clamps, and belts if worn—recommended during pump jobs.
- Replace O-rings/gaskets provided with pump. If pump uses paper gasket, do not use excess sealant unless specified. If OEM requires RTV at specific locations, apply per manual.
7. Install new water pump
- Place new gasket or O-ring in position (light coat of coolant or specified lubricant if recommended).
- Fit pump onto housing carefully, ensuring correct alignment and no gasket pinch.
- Insert bolts finger-tight in their original locations; tighten in a crisscross/star pattern progressively to final torque.
- Use calibrated torque wrench for final torquing to OEM specification (consult Cat torque chart). Do not use impact wrench for final torque.
- If any bolts are one-time-use (stretched), replace them with new ones.
8. Reinstall fan, hub, belts, and shroud
- Reinstall fan hub/fan assembly and torque to spec. If fan had a keyed or tapered shaft, ensure correct seating and alignment before tightening.
- Reinstall belts; adjust tension to specification. Use belt gauge or follow CAT recommended tensioning method.
- Reinstall shrouds, sensors, and any brackets removed.
9. Refill and bleed cooling system
- Close drain valves.
- Refill with Cat-approved coolant and distilled water if required, using correct concentration.
- Bleed air from system: open bleed points/valves, run engine to operating temperature with heater on, top off coolant as air escapes. Use vacuum fill if available to reduce air pockets.
- Check for leaks at pump, hose connections, and mating surfaces while under pressure (run engine briefly and inspect).
10. Final checks
- Re-torque pump bolts and fan bolts after initial heat cycle if specified by OEM.
- Check belt tension after a short test run and re-adjust if necessary.
- Inspect for coolant leaks and ensure correct temperature and no abnormal noises (grinding from pump).
- Properly dispose of old coolant and pump per regulations.
- Remove lockout/tagout and return machine to service.
How the important tools are used
- Torque wrench: use to tighten pump and fan bolts to OEM specs. Set correct torque value, tighten in progressive sequence (crisscross), and perform final pass at value. Do not use torque wrench to break loose bolts.
- Puller (fan/propeller puller): attach evenly to hub studs or flange, turn center screw slowly to press off hub. Use even pressure; prevent shaft damage.
- Impact wrench: OK for initial loosening of stubborn bolts but do final torquing with torque wrench. Avoid using impact on aluminium or soft bolts that can be overstressed.
- Hose clamp pliers: compress spring clamps to remove and reinstall quickly; avoid cutting hose.
- Gasket scraper & plastic pry bar: remove old gasket material without damaging machined face. Finish with solvent wipe.
- Vacuum fill/bleeder tools: create a vacuum to draw coolant into the system, minimizing air pockets and speeding bleeding. Follow manufacturer instructions.
Replacement parts & consumables typically required
- Complete water pump assembly (impeller, shaft, seal, bearings).
- Pump gasket(s) and O-ring(s).
- New hose clamps (spring or worm-drive as used).
- Coolant (Cat-approved type and correct mix).
- Optional recommended: thermostat, radiator hoses if worn, accessory drive belts, bolts/washers if one-time-use.
- RTV/sealant only if specified by Cat for certain flange locations.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Working on a hot engine — burn risk. Always cool engine fully.
- Not relieving system pressure — open only when cool and wearing protection.
- Reusing old gasket or improper gasket orientation — always use new gasket and verify orientation.
- Over-tightening bolts — causes warped flange or stripped threads; use calibrated torque wrench and specified pattern.
- Cross-threading bolts — start bolts by hand to ensure correct engagement.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces — leftover gasket material can cause leaks; clean thoroughly.
- Not replacing belts or clamps if worn — leads to premature failure after pump replacement.
- Air trapped in cooling system — causes overheating; follow proper bleed procedure.
- Using wrong coolant type — causes corrosion; use Cat-approved coolant and correct concentrate.
- Ignoring slight shaft play on new pump — check new pump before installation; if shaft/bearings are rough, return pump.
- Damaging fan/hub during removal — use proper puller and lifting support.
- Overuse of RTV or sealant — can block coolant passages; use only where specified.
Testing after replacement
- Start engine and observe for leaks, abnormal noises or vibration.
- Run to normal operating temp and verify thermostat operation and coolant flow.
- Check temperature gauge and heater operation.
- Confirm no leaks after a full cool-down and re-inspect torque on critical fasteners if OEM requires.
Note: follow Caterpillar Cat 1674 workshop manual for exact torque values, bolt patterns, gasket part numbers and any model-specific procedures or special tools. Failure to follow OEM specifications may cause damage.
rteeqp73
Short summary (so you know what follows): shocks damp motion — they convert suspension kinetic energy into heat in hydraulic fluid. Worn shocks cause bouncing, poor control, accelerated wear and structural stress. Below is a workshop-style, beginner-friendly, step‑by‑step procedure for replacing shock absorbers on a Caterpillar heavy machine (Cat 1674 or similar), including detailed descriptions of every component, safety, tools, inspection points, how the system works, and failure modes. Use the machine’s official service manual for exact part numbers, torque specs, and hydraulic safety procedures. Read and follow all safety decals and company lockout/tagout rules.
1) Theory of operation — plain language + analogy
- What a shock absorber does:
- A shock controls the speed of suspension movement by forcing hydraulic fluid through small valves as a piston moves in a cylinder. Think of it as pushing a piston through honey: the honey resists movement and slows it down. The shock converts motion energy into heat in the oil.
- Main internal parts and function:
- Cylinder (body): oil reservoir and pressure boundary.
- Piston and piston rod: piston moves through the oil inside the cylinder; rod links to the machine.
- Valves (orifices) in the piston: control fluid flow and therefore damping force (often different for compression vs rebound).
- Seals and wipers: keep oil in and dirt out.
- Gas charge or accumulator (on some heavy shocks): prevents cavitation and keeps pressure stable.
- Why replacement is needed:
- Oil leaks, worn seals, clogged orifices, bent rods, or internal wear reduce damping. Result: vehicle bounces, nose‑dives under braking, bottoming out, instability, increased frame stress and faster wear of tires and other components.
- What can go wrong if ignored:
- Loss of control, increased stopping distance, broken mounts, cracked frame, rapid wear of tires and suspension parts, and in extreme cases structural failure.
2) Components you will see and what each does (detailed)
- Shock absorber assembly (complete):
- Upper eye/mount or clevis: attaches to machine chassis; usually has a rubber bushing or spherical bearing.
- Lower eye/mount or clevis: attaches to axle or linkage.
- Shock body/cylinder: main housing with stamped or welded ends.
- Piston rod: chrome-plated rod that extends/retracts; connects to piston.
- Dust wiper: at rod entry to keep grit out.
- Oil fill or service port (rare on sealed shocks): for charging or maintenance.
- Gas accumulator (if present): small cylinder attached or internal; helps prevent shock cavitation.
- Mount hardware:
- Mounting bolts, nuts, washers, locknuts, castle nuts with cotter pins, or nyloc nuts.
- Spacers/shims: keep correct alignment and avoid side loads.
- Bushings: rubber or polyurethane sleeves that isolate vibration.
- Sleeves/inner sleeves: steel tube inside bushing for bolt clearance.
- Adjacent suspension parts to inspect:
- Mount brackets/hangers: inspect for cracks, corrosion, deformation.
- Frame and axle welds and fasteners.
- Springs or links that carry loads (leaf springs, radius rods).
- Grease fittings, link bushings, and bearing surfaces.
3) Safety and preparation (non-negotiable)
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots, hearing protection.
- Work area: level, solid ground, good lighting.
- Lockout/Tagout: disable machine, key out, disconnect batteries if required by your shop procedure.
- Block wheels and secure machine against movement.
- Support loads: use rated jacks and stands or blocks under axle/frame; NEVER rely only on hydraulic jacks.
- Relieve stored energy: if shocks are part of a hydraulic system or if springs/air systems carry load, follow manual to relieve pressure and support structure prior to unbolting.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and a spill kit for oil.
- Use proper lifting equipment for heavy shocks (they’re heavy).
4) Tools and consumables
- Basic hand tools: open/box wrenches, combination wrenches, sockets and ratchet, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (calibrated).
- Penetrating oil (for seized bolts).
- Hammer and drift/punch for stubborn pins.
- Pry bars and large screwdrivers.
- Jack(s) and heavy-duty stands or cribbing blocks.
- New shock(s) matching OEM part number.
- New mounting hardware, bushings, sleeves, cotter pins, locknuts (replace as recommended).
- Clean rags, shop towels, oil drain pan.
- Threadlocker/anti-seize if specified.
- Service manual for torque values and special procedures.
5) Step-by-step removal (workshop style)
- Note: follow machine-specific manual for any system-specific steps. This version is general but detailed.
A) Pre-steps
- Park machine on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake, shut down engine, remove key.
- Place warning signs and lockout tags.
- Clean the area around shock mounts so debris doesn’t fall into components.
- Inspect shock orientation and take photos or mark the position to replicate during installation.
B) Support structure and relieve load
- Place jacks/stands under the axle or attachment to support the weight that the shock controls. The shock must be at or near its installed length (unloaded) when removed — otherwise rod may be under tension/compression causing sudden movement.
- If the shock is under load (e.g., linked to spring or linkage that compresses under weight), raise the support slightly until the shock is unloaded. You want the mounting bolt holes to line up without forcing the shock.
C) Access and remove hardware
- Spray penetrating oil on nuts/bolts and let soak if rusted.
- Remove cotter pins, split pins, or safety clips.
- Use correct size wrench/socket and support the opposite side to prevent turning the stud.
- If bolt is stuck, use heat only if safe and permitted (caution: heat can damage seals or paint).
- Remove top mounting bolt/clevis or nut first, then lower. Or remove lower first if easier — what matters is the shock is supported so it doesn't drop violently after last fastener removed.
- If shock mount uses a bushing with an inner sleeve, once bolts removed tap the sleeve out with a drift and hammer if needed. Keep track of washers/spacers.
D) Remove shock
- Once both ends unbolted, slide shock out. If stuck by corrosion, protect piston rod and use penetrating oil and light taps on body (not rod). Do not pry on the chrome rod — you will scratch/damage it.
- Inspect removed shock: look for oil on rod or body (leak), bent rod, pitted chrome, damaged mounting eyes/bushings and gas canister damage.
6) Inspection and prep before installing new shocks
- Compare new shock to old: length, mounting spread, bushing ID, rod diameter, part number.
- Replace bushings and sleeves if worn — do not reuse degraded rubber bushings. Bushings prevent metal-to-metal wear and misalignment.
- Inspect mounting brackets on machine: fix bent brackets, grind burrs, replace cracked or corroded brackets.
- Clean mounting bolt holes and threads. Replace bolts/nuts if threads damaged or if OEM requires new.
- Check for frame cracks or loose welds around mounts — repair before fitting new shock.
7) Installation (workshop style)
A) Pre-fit checks
- Leave the shock at its service/installed length per manufacturer. If gas charged, never compress beyond intended travel unnecessarily.
- Install new bushings/sleeves into eyes first if they come separate.
- Apply light film of clean oil or specified grease to bushings/sleeves if manual calls for it (some bushings are dry-fit).
B) Mounting
- Align lower mount first or follow manual sequence. Use jacks/stands to position axle/frame so bolt holes line up without forcing.
- Insert bolt through mount and bushing; use correct shims/spacers and washers; keep bolt heads and nuts oriented same way as before for service access.
- Snug bolts just enough to hold shock in place; do not fully torque with the suspension in an unloaded or unnatural position unless manual calls for that condition. Note: Some manufacturers require torquing with vehicle at normal ride height — check the manual.
- Install upper mount in same way.
C) Torque and final fasteners
- Tighten fasteners to the manufacturer’s specified torque values. Use a calibrated torque wrench.
- Install new cotter pins or locking devices where specified.
- If threadlocker or anti-seize is specified by OEM, apply accordingly.
- If shock has grease zerk: grease only as instructed (many shocks are sealed and should not be greased).
D) Functional checks
- Remove supports slowly to allow suspension to settle. Watch for rubbing, binding, or misalignment.
- Ensure bolt heads and nuts are properly seated and not contacting moving parts.
- Start engine and cycle machine functions (slow, safe movements) to see behavior; listen for unusual noises.
- Drive or operate machine at low speed over a test area; check for improved damping, no excessive bounce, no leaks.
- Re-torque if required after initial run-in (some shops recheck torque after a few hours of operation).
8) What can go wrong during replacement and how to avoid it
- Removing under load: If you remove a shock while the component it restrains is under load, it can slam down suddenly — risk of injury and damage. Avoid by supporting structure properly.
- Damaging piston rod: Hitting or scraping the chrome rod will ruin the seal surface → leaks and early failure. Don’t pry on rod or use jaws on it.
- Using wrong length/part: A shock that’s too short or too long can leave the suspension overextended or bottomed out — could fold or break. Always match OEM part number and dimensions.
- Reusing worn bushings: Will cause misalignment and accelerated wear; always replace worn rubber/poly bushings and sleeves.
- Incorrect torque: Under-torqued bolts can back off; over-torqued bolts can strip threads or fail. Use correct torque specs from manual.
- Improper mounting orientation: Some shocks are valved/direction-specific. Install as marked (compression/rebound orientation or top/bottom).
- Contaminating the interior: Do not attempt to disassemble sealed shocks; internal contamination or incorrect reassembly will ruin them.
- Hydraulic pressure hazard: On systems with accumulators or pressure-charged shocks, improper venting/handling can be dangerous. Follow manual procedures.
9) Diagnostic clues from old shocks (how to tell failure mode)
- Wet shock body or rod: oil leak → failed seals.
- Pitted rod or bent rod: physical damage → replace.
- No damping (machine bounces): internal fluid loss, valving failure.
- Hissing or gas vent noise: failed gas charge or damaged internal accumulator.
- Excessive play at mounts: worn bushings or bent mount.
- Uneven tire wear or frame cracks near mounts: chronic shock failure plus excessive load cycling.
10) Best practices and final notes
- Replace shocks in axle pairs or matched positions to keep damping symmetry (e.g., both rear shocks). Mismatched damping causes handling issues.
- Always use new mounting hardware and bushings as required.
- Keep a record of part numbers, serials, and installation date.
- If you doubt any step or encounter pressurized accumulators, follow OEM service manual and involve certified technician.
- Dispose of old shocks and oil according to local environmental regulations.
Quick checklist (condensed)
- PPE, lockout/tagout, chock wheels.
- Support axle/frame; unload shock.
- Remove top and bottom fasteners; extract shock.
- Inspect mounts, brackets, bushings; replace as needed.
- Fit new shock with new bushings/sleeves; align without forcing.
- Torque to OEM specs; install locking hardware.
- Lower machine, test, re-torque if required.
No Yapping: that is the full workshop-style guide. Follow the machine-specific manual for exact torque values and any hydraulic/accumulator procedures.
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