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Massey Ferguson MF3600 series tractor factory workshop and repair manual download
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Massey Ferguson MF3600 Tractor factory workshop and repair manualon PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . File size 26 Mb PDF document searchable with bookmarks. The PDF manual covers Models covered 3610, 3630, 3635. 3645. 3650, 3650, 3655, 3660, 3670, 3680, 3690 2WD and 4WD including Perkins Valmet engines Perkins TW31151, TU31143, TU31145, YB31245,YB31246,YB31247,YB31262,YB31264,YB31263, Valmet 620DS,612DS CONTENTS: INTRODUCTION - CAB AND EQUIPMENT - SPLITTING THE TRACTOR - ENGINE -GEARBOX - REAR AXLE
About the Massey Ferguson MF3600
The Massey Ferguson 3600 series was introduced in 1987 to replace the Massey Ferguson 2005 series. The range consisted of 5 models originaly, and ranged from 113 hp to 150 hp. The series was replaced by the Massey Ferguson 8100 series in 1995. By the early 1990 several new models had been added to the range. The MF 3600 models were fitted with either of Autotronic or Datatronic control systems. Massey Ferguson MF3600 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual download |
- Safety first
- Always work with the engine cold to avoid burns.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Work on level ground with parking brake set and wheels chocked.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be moving wires near electrical components.
- Confirm your tractor actually has spark plugs
- Many MF 3600-series tractors use diesel engines (which do not have spark plugs; they use glow plugs or none). Check the fuel filler cap or the owner’s manual for “diesel” vs “petrol/gasoline.”
- If it’s diesel: do not follow the spark-plug procedure; glow plugs are a different part and require different steps/tools. If you remove a plug and it is long/thinner and threaded into the head but looks like a glow plug, treat it as a glow-plug job.
- Tools you will need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Spark plug socket (deep, rubber insert) — usually 5/8" (16 mm) or 13/16" (20.6 mm); often M14 thread plugs use a 5/8" socket
- Description: deep socket with rubber or foam insert that grips the plug insulator so the plug doesn’t fall out.
- How to use: fit the correct-size socket onto an extension, push it over the plug until it seats; turn with a ratchet counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Use by hand first so you don’t cross-thread the plug.
- Extension bar(s)
- Description: metal bar that fits between socket and ratchet to reach recessed plugs.
- How to use: attach between socket and ratchet; choose length so the socket can go straight onto the plug without forcing an angle.
- Ratchet (1/2" or 3/8" drive depending on socket)
- Description: reversible handle that applies turning force; 3/8" drive is common for spark plugs on tractors.
- How to use: attach extension and socket, set direction lever to loosen/tighten, apply steady turning force. Don’t use excessive speed near thread engagement.
- Torque wrench (click type) — required for correct final tightening
- Description: wrench calibrated to apply a specific torque (lb-ft or Nm).
- How to use: set to spark plug torque specification (see tractor manual or use typical values below), hand-start the plug then use torque wrench to the specified reading until it clicks.
- Spark plug gap gauge / feeler gauge
- Description: thin metal blades or a multi-blade tool used to measure electrode gap.
- How to use: slide the correct thickness blade between center and ground electrode; bend the ground electrode slightly if gap needs adjustment until the blade has a slight drag.
- Dielectric grease (small tube) — optional
- Description: silicone grease for electrical boots.
- How to use: smear a tiny amount inside the spark plug boot (not on the plug electrodes). Keeps moisture out and improves connection.
- Anti-seize compound — optional and use cautiously
- Description: paste that prevents threads seizing.
- How to use: if you choose to use it, apply a tiny amount only to the threads; modern plugs often have coatings and manufacturers sometimes advise against anti-seize — check plug instructions.
- Boot puller / spark-plug wire pliers
- Description: tool with a hooked end to remove spark plug boots without tearing the boot.
- How to use: hook under the boot, pull straight out with steady even force while twisting slightly to break the seal.
- Compressed air or small brush / vacuum
- Description: canned air or compressor, or brush + shop vac.
- How to use: blow or brush away dirt around the plug area before removing the plug so debris doesn’t fall into the cylinder.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40 or PB Blaster) — only if plug is hard to break loose
- Description: oil that seeps into threads to help loosen corrosion/stickiness.
- How to use: apply around plug base, let soak per product instructions; be prepared for extra difficulty and risk of seizing.
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Description: eye protection and hand protection.
- How to use: put on before beginning and keep on while working.
- Extra tools you might need and why
- Breaker bar or longer ratchet handle — required if a plug is seized or overtightened; gives more leverage.
- Swivel/universal joint for socket set — required if plug is at an awkward angle.
- Spark plug extractor kit — required only if a plug breaks off or the hex section is rounded; this is advanced and may need a mechanic.
- Torque wrench if you don’t own one — required to avoid over- or under-tightening; spark plugs must be torqued correctly to seal and avoid thread damage.
- Replacement ignition leads / distributor cap / coil — required if the engine misfires after new plugs; these parts wear and cause weak/no spark.
- Parts you may need to replace and why
- Spark plugs (one per cylinder)
- Why: worn electrodes, fouling, incorrect heat range, cracked insulator or carbon build-up cause poor combustion and hard starting.
- What to buy: OEM part number from your owner’s manual or use a high-quality equivalent (Champion, NGK). Common thread sizes for tractors are M14 x 1.25 but confirm by checking the old plug or manual.
- Spark plug wire(s) / ignition leads
- Why: cracked insulation, corrosion in boots, or high resistance cause weak/no spark.
- What to buy: replacement leads rated for your engine and length, or OEM leads.
- Ignition coil, distributor cap/rotor (if fitted)
- Why: if new plugs don’t fix miss or rough running, ignition components may be failing.
- What to buy: OEM-recommended parts or high-quality aftermarket replacements.
- Glow plugs (if diesel and you thought spark plugs)
- Why: diesel engines use glow plugs for cold starting; they fail over time.
- What to buy: glow plugs specific to your engine model.
- Spark plug replacement procedure (for a petrol engine)
- Prepare: engine cold, safety gear on, battery negative disconnected if desired.
- Clean area: blow out or brush away dirt around each plug boot so nothing falls into the cylinder when the plug is removed.
- Remove plug wire/boot: use boot pliers or grip the boot firmly at the base and pull straight out with a twisting motion; don’t pull on the wire.
- Remove old plug: seat the correct spark plug socket on the plug via extension, turn counterclockwise with ratchet until free, then unscrew by hand to remove.
- Inspect old plug: look for electrode wear, heavy carbon, oil fouling, or a cracked insulator to diagnose engine condition.
- Prepare new plug: check the part number and model; check and set the gap to the specification in the manual using the gap gauge.
- Thread new plug by hand: start threading the new plug into the head by hand to prevent cross-threading; it should turn freely for several turns.
- Tighten to torque: use the torque wrench and tighten to the specified torque (typical small-engine guideline 18–25 lb-ft / 25–35 Nm — confirm manual). If you don’t have a torque wrench, hand-tighten firmly and then use the ratchet for a small additional amount (risky; try to get a torque wrench).
- Apply dielectric grease: dab a small amount inside the boot, not on the plug electrodes.
- Reattach boot: push the boot onto the plug until it clicks or seats firmly.
- Repeat for each cylinder.
- Final check: reconnect battery negative if disconnected, start engine and listen for smooth running. Check for misfires or roughness.
- Troubleshooting and when to replace other parts
- Engine still misfires after new plugs: check ignition leads for continuity/resistance (multimeter), inspect coil and distributor cap/rotor if present.
- Plugs that are oily: indicates valve cover gasket or piston ring issues — requires further mechanical diagnosis.
- Very tight or rounded plug hex: stop; if it won’t come loose, a mechanic or extractor kit is needed to avoid head damage.
- Broken plug: removal is advanced; stop and get professional help.
- Quick parts/spec tips
- Always replace with the correct plug type and heat range for your engine — owner’s manual or the plug stamped on the old plug will tell you thread size and type.
- Replace all plugs at once for consistent performance.
- Keep one spare plug of the correct type in the toolbox.
- Final safety notes
- Do not over-torque plugs — this can strip head threads.
- Do not use too much anti-seize unless manufacturer allows it — it changes the torque reading.
- If unsure about engine type or a seized/broken plug, consult a qualified mechanic to avoid engine damage.
- End note
- If your MF3600-series tractor is diesel, do not attempt spark-plug removal — check for glow plugs and follow glow-plug-specific procedures or get professional help.
rteeqp73
- Always work with the engine cold to avoid burns.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Work on level ground with parking brake set and wheels chocked.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be moving wires near electrical components.
- Confirm your tractor actually has spark plugs
- Many MF 3600-series tractors use diesel engines (which do not have spark plugs; they use glow plugs or none). Check the fuel filler cap or the owner’s manual for “diesel” vs “petrol/gasoline.”
- If it’s diesel: do not follow the spark-plug procedure; glow plugs are a different part and require different steps/tools. If you remove a plug and it is long/thinner and threaded into the head but looks like a glow plug, treat it as a glow-plug job.
- Tools you will need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Spark plug socket (deep, rubber insert) — usually 5/8" (16 mm) or 13/16" (20.6 mm); often M14 thread plugs use a 5/8" socket
- Description: deep socket with rubber or foam insert that grips the plug insulator so the plug doesn’t fall out.
- How to use: fit the correct-size socket onto an extension, push it over the plug until it seats; turn with a ratchet counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Use by hand first so you don’t cross-thread the plug.
- Extension bar(s)
- Description: metal bar that fits between socket and ratchet to reach recessed plugs.
- How to use: attach between socket and ratchet; choose length so the socket can go straight onto the plug without forcing an angle.
- Ratchet (1/2" or 3/8" drive depending on socket)
- Description: reversible handle that applies turning force; 3/8" drive is common for spark plugs on tractors.
- How to use: attach extension and socket, set direction lever to loosen/tighten, apply steady turning force. Don’t use excessive speed near thread engagement.
- Torque wrench (click type) — required for correct final tightening
- Description: wrench calibrated to apply a specific torque (lb-ft or Nm).
- How to use: set to spark plug torque specification (see tractor manual or use typical values below), hand-start the plug then use torque wrench to the specified reading until it clicks.
- Spark plug gap gauge / feeler gauge
- Description: thin metal blades or a multi-blade tool used to measure electrode gap.
- How to use: slide the correct thickness blade between center and ground electrode; bend the ground electrode slightly if gap needs adjustment until the blade has a slight drag.
- Dielectric grease (small tube) — optional
- Description: silicone grease for electrical boots.
- How to use: smear a tiny amount inside the spark plug boot (not on the plug electrodes). Keeps moisture out and improves connection.
- Anti-seize compound — optional and use cautiously
- Description: paste that prevents threads seizing.
- How to use: if you choose to use it, apply a tiny amount only to the threads; modern plugs often have coatings and manufacturers sometimes advise against anti-seize — check plug instructions.
- Boot puller / spark-plug wire pliers
- Description: tool with a hooked end to remove spark plug boots without tearing the boot.
- How to use: hook under the boot, pull straight out with steady even force while twisting slightly to break the seal.
- Compressed air or small brush / vacuum
- Description: canned air or compressor, or brush + shop vac.
- How to use: blow or brush away dirt around the plug area before removing the plug so debris doesn’t fall into the cylinder.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40 or PB Blaster) — only if plug is hard to break loose
- Description: oil that seeps into threads to help loosen corrosion/stickiness.
- How to use: apply around plug base, let soak per product instructions; be prepared for extra difficulty and risk of seizing.
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Description: eye protection and hand protection.
- How to use: put on before beginning and keep on while working.
- Extra tools you might need and why
- Breaker bar or longer ratchet handle — required if a plug is seized or overtightened; gives more leverage.
- Swivel/universal joint for socket set — required if plug is at an awkward angle.
- Spark plug extractor kit — required only if a plug breaks off or the hex section is rounded; this is advanced and may need a mechanic.
- Torque wrench if you don’t own one — required to avoid over- or under-tightening; spark plugs must be torqued correctly to seal and avoid thread damage.
- Replacement ignition leads / distributor cap / coil — required if the engine misfires after new plugs; these parts wear and cause weak/no spark.
- Parts you may need to replace and why
- Spark plugs (one per cylinder)
- Why: worn electrodes, fouling, incorrect heat range, cracked insulator or carbon build-up cause poor combustion and hard starting.
- What to buy: OEM part number from your owner’s manual or use a high-quality equivalent (Champion, NGK). Common thread sizes for tractors are M14 x 1.25 but confirm by checking the old plug or manual.
- Spark plug wire(s) / ignition leads
- Why: cracked insulation, corrosion in boots, or high resistance cause weak/no spark.
- What to buy: replacement leads rated for your engine and length, or OEM leads.
- Ignition coil, distributor cap/rotor (if fitted)
- Why: if new plugs don’t fix miss or rough running, ignition components may be failing.
- What to buy: OEM-recommended parts or high-quality aftermarket replacements.
- Glow plugs (if diesel and you thought spark plugs)
- Why: diesel engines use glow plugs for cold starting; they fail over time.
- What to buy: glow plugs specific to your engine model.
- Spark plug replacement procedure (for a petrol engine)
- Prepare: engine cold, safety gear on, battery negative disconnected if desired.
- Clean area: blow out or brush away dirt around each plug boot so nothing falls into the cylinder when the plug is removed.
- Remove plug wire/boot: use boot pliers or grip the boot firmly at the base and pull straight out with a twisting motion; don’t pull on the wire.
- Remove old plug: seat the correct spark plug socket on the plug via extension, turn counterclockwise with ratchet until free, then unscrew by hand to remove.
- Inspect old plug: look for electrode wear, heavy carbon, oil fouling, or a cracked insulator to diagnose engine condition.
- Prepare new plug: check the part number and model; check and set the gap to the specification in the manual using the gap gauge.
- Thread new plug by hand: start threading the new plug into the head by hand to prevent cross-threading; it should turn freely for several turns.
- Tighten to torque: use the torque wrench and tighten to the specified torque (typical small-engine guideline 18–25 lb-ft / 25–35 Nm — confirm manual). If you don’t have a torque wrench, hand-tighten firmly and then use the ratchet for a small additional amount (risky; try to get a torque wrench).
- Apply dielectric grease: dab a small amount inside the boot, not on the plug electrodes.
- Reattach boot: push the boot onto the plug until it clicks or seats firmly.
- Repeat for each cylinder.
- Final check: reconnect battery negative if disconnected, start engine and listen for smooth running. Check for misfires or roughness.
- Troubleshooting and when to replace other parts
- Engine still misfires after new plugs: check ignition leads for continuity/resistance (multimeter), inspect coil and distributor cap/rotor if present.
- Plugs that are oily: indicates valve cover gasket or piston ring issues — requires further mechanical diagnosis.
- Very tight or rounded plug hex: stop; if it won’t come loose, a mechanic or extractor kit is needed to avoid head damage.
- Broken plug: removal is advanced; stop and get professional help.
- Quick parts/spec tips
- Always replace with the correct plug type and heat range for your engine — owner’s manual or the plug stamped on the old plug will tell you thread size and type.
- Replace all plugs at once for consistent performance.
- Keep one spare plug of the correct type in the toolbox.
- Final safety notes
- Do not over-torque plugs — this can strip head threads.
- Do not use too much anti-seize unless manufacturer allows it — it changes the torque reading.
- If unsure about engine type or a seized/broken plug, consult a qualified mechanic to avoid engine damage.
- End note
- If your MF3600-series tractor is diesel, do not attempt spark-plug removal — check for glow plugs and follow glow-plug-specific procedures or get professional help.
rteeqp73
