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Toyota Hilux 2007 factory workshop and repair manual download
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Toyota Hilux AN10, AN20 2005-2013 factory workshop and repair manualon PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . It is compressed as a zip file which you can extract with 7zip File size is large at 170 Mb with some PDF documents with bookmarks. Covers the AN10, AN20 Toyota Hilux Petrol/Gasoline engines: * TGN 15-16-26 MODELS Toyota Hilux AN10 AN20 TGN GGN KUN factory workshop and repair manual Download |
Summary (one line)
- The clutch slave cylinder converts pressure from the master cylinder into mechanical movement to disengage the clutch; replacing it restores a sealed hydraulic actuator so the pedal produces consistent pressure and travel.
Theory — how the system works and what fails
- Components: master cylinder (pedal pushes piston, pressurizes fluid), hydraulic line, slave cylinder (piston pushes release fork or concentric actuating sleeve), clutch release bearing, clutch pressure plate.
- Normal operation: pedal movement → master piston pressurizes DOT brake fluid → fluid transmits nearly incompressible pressure through the line → slave piston moves a defined distance to disengage the clutch; when released, springs return components.
- Common failures: external leaks at seals or fittings, internal seal failure allowing fluid to pass by the slave piston (loss of pressure), or piston corrosion/stick. Result = low/soft pedal, no disengagement, or clutch drag.
- Why replacement fixes it: a new slave restores a leak-tight, smooth piston and seals so hydraulic pressure is transmitted and piston travel is restored; air and fluid path integrity are re-established so pedal feel and release timing return to spec.
Preparation (safety and parts)
1) Safety: park on level ground, block wheels, chock, use jack stands if vehicle lifted, wear eye protection, gloves. Avoid brake fluid on paint.
2) Parts/fluids: correct replacement slave (external or concentric, match model/year), new banjo/bleed washers if used, DOT 3/DOT 4 brake fluid per Toyota spec, new line hardware if corroded.
3) Tools: basic hand tools, flare-wrench for hydraulic fittings, socket set, torque wrench, catch bottle, tubing for bleed nipple, vacuum or pressure bleeder or second person, shop rags.
Diagnostic checks (confirm theory before replacing)
4) Inspect for leaks: check around slave body, dust boot, hydraulic line, and master reservoir level. A dropping reservoir or visible fluid = leak.
- Theory: visual leak proves seal/fitting failure; if no leak, internal seal or master could be issue.
5) Pedal test: with engine off, press pedal and hold. If pedal slowly sinks or creeps to floor → internal leak in master or slave. If pedal is spongy → air in system (could be from leak).
- Theory: fluid passing a failed internal seal will cause pedal sink; air compressibility causes sponginess.
Order of removal and replacement — with theory at each step
6) Relieve system pressure and secure vehicle: set parking brake, block wheels.
- Theory: avoid unexpected movement and fluid spray.
7) Access slave cylinder: remove components that block access (wheel, splash shield, or transmission inspection cover; on concentric slave you must remove transmission).
- Theory: external slaves are under the gearbox; concentric slaves are inside the bellhousing — removal of transmission exposes the unit.
8) Clamp or clean master reservoir: remove cap and top up to max; keep reservoir covered to prevent contamination.
- Theory: keeping fluid available prevents introducing air when you begin disconnecting hydraulic line.
9) Disconnect hydraulic line from slave (use flare wrench), catch fluid in a clean container, cap open line if possible.
- Theory: removing the line relieves connection for new slave; catching fluid prevents contamination and environmental harm.
10) Remove mounting bolts and withdraw slave cylinder assembly.
- Theory: frees failed unit; inspect dust boot, pushrod, and release fork for damage.
11) Compare old and new parts; replace any sealing washers or banjo bolt hardware.
- Theory: reused crush washers often leak; new hardware ensures proper sealing and torque.
12) Install new slave in place, torque bolts to factory spec, connect hydraulic line and tighten fitting to spec.
- Theory: correct seating and torque compresses sealing surfaces evenly and prevents leaks.
13) Refill master reservoir to the correct level with specified DOT fluid.
- Theory: the system needs an adequate fluid charge before bleeding; DOT oil compatibility is critical.
Bleeding the system — why and how (ordered)
14) Initial gravity/hand fill: let fluid settle and fill reservoir so line to slave has fluid.
- Theory: reduces amount of air to evacuate.
15) Bleed the slave: recommended methods in order of effectiveness:
- Two-person manual: one opens bleed nipple slightly, assistant presses and holds pedal, close nipple, assistant releases pedal, repeat until no bubbles.
- Vacuum bleeder: attach vacuum to bleed nipple and open; pump pedal slowly until clear fluid flows.
- Pressure/force bleeder: pressurize reservoir to push fluid through while opening bleed nipple.
- Theory: air is compressible and must be removed from the line and slave piston cavity; bleeding pushes fluid out and displaces air so the system is full of incompressible fluid.
16) Bleed sequence: bleed slave with pedal depressed/released cycles until no bubbles; top up reservoir frequently to avoid drawing air into master.
- Theory: if reservoir runs empty, you’ll reintroduce air and need to repeat bleeding. Ensure master is not the source of failure.
17) Bench or bench-bleed master if suspect: if master cylinder is old or internal-sinking pedal persists, bench-bleed or replace master.
- Theory: internal master failure will not be fixed by replacing slave; bench bleeding ensures master assembly itself doesn’t hold air.
Final checks — proving the repair
18) Function test: with vehicle safely supported, cycle pedal several times, engine off, and check for firm pedal and no leaks.
- Theory: firm pedal with correct free play indicates restored hydraulic pressure and correct piston seating.
19) Road test: short cautious drive to confirm clutch engagement/disengagement, no slipping or dragging, and pedal consistency.
- Theory: under load you confirm correct release timing and that no air remains.
20) Re-torque fittings and re-check fluid after a brief test drive; check reservoir and top up.
- Theory: thermal expansion and settling may change levels; re-check prevents future air ingress.
How each action fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing slave: removes damaged seals/piston/corroded bore so the slave can hold pressure and produce correct piston travel.
- Correct hydraulic connection and new washers: stop external leaks that lower reservoir and let air in.
- Proper bleeding: removes air so fluid transmits pressure instead of compressing, restoring pedal firmness and travel precision.
- Inspection of master and linkage: ensures the source of failure isn’t upstream; if master is leaking or internally bad, replacing slave alone won’t fix pedal sinking.
Common pitfalls and how the theory prevents them
- Leaving air in system → spongy pedal: prevent by thorough bleeding, keeping reservoir full.
- Reusing crush washers or corroded fittings → repeat leak: always replace sealing hardware.
- Ignoring master cylinder faults → continued pedal sink: diagnose master with pedal-sink test before or after slave replacement.
- Using wrong fluid or contaminating reservoir → seal damage: use manufacturer-specified DOT fluid only.
Quick checklist (final)
- Confirm leak or internal failure
- Get correct slave and hardware, DOT fluid
- Safely access and remove old slave
- Install new slave with new sealing washers, torque to spec
- Fill and bleed until no air, keep reservoir filled
- Test pedal feel and clutch engagement, recheck for leaks
No questions.
rteeqp73
- The clutch slave cylinder converts pressure from the master cylinder into mechanical movement to disengage the clutch; replacing it restores a sealed hydraulic actuator so the pedal produces consistent pressure and travel.
Theory — how the system works and what fails
- Components: master cylinder (pedal pushes piston, pressurizes fluid), hydraulic line, slave cylinder (piston pushes release fork or concentric actuating sleeve), clutch release bearing, clutch pressure plate.
- Normal operation: pedal movement → master piston pressurizes DOT brake fluid → fluid transmits nearly incompressible pressure through the line → slave piston moves a defined distance to disengage the clutch; when released, springs return components.
- Common failures: external leaks at seals or fittings, internal seal failure allowing fluid to pass by the slave piston (loss of pressure), or piston corrosion/stick. Result = low/soft pedal, no disengagement, or clutch drag.
- Why replacement fixes it: a new slave restores a leak-tight, smooth piston and seals so hydraulic pressure is transmitted and piston travel is restored; air and fluid path integrity are re-established so pedal feel and release timing return to spec.
Preparation (safety and parts)
1) Safety: park on level ground, block wheels, chock, use jack stands if vehicle lifted, wear eye protection, gloves. Avoid brake fluid on paint.
2) Parts/fluids: correct replacement slave (external or concentric, match model/year), new banjo/bleed washers if used, DOT 3/DOT 4 brake fluid per Toyota spec, new line hardware if corroded.
3) Tools: basic hand tools, flare-wrench for hydraulic fittings, socket set, torque wrench, catch bottle, tubing for bleed nipple, vacuum or pressure bleeder or second person, shop rags.
Diagnostic checks (confirm theory before replacing)
4) Inspect for leaks: check around slave body, dust boot, hydraulic line, and master reservoir level. A dropping reservoir or visible fluid = leak.
- Theory: visual leak proves seal/fitting failure; if no leak, internal seal or master could be issue.
5) Pedal test: with engine off, press pedal and hold. If pedal slowly sinks or creeps to floor → internal leak in master or slave. If pedal is spongy → air in system (could be from leak).
- Theory: fluid passing a failed internal seal will cause pedal sink; air compressibility causes sponginess.
Order of removal and replacement — with theory at each step
6) Relieve system pressure and secure vehicle: set parking brake, block wheels.
- Theory: avoid unexpected movement and fluid spray.
7) Access slave cylinder: remove components that block access (wheel, splash shield, or transmission inspection cover; on concentric slave you must remove transmission).
- Theory: external slaves are under the gearbox; concentric slaves are inside the bellhousing — removal of transmission exposes the unit.
8) Clamp or clean master reservoir: remove cap and top up to max; keep reservoir covered to prevent contamination.
- Theory: keeping fluid available prevents introducing air when you begin disconnecting hydraulic line.
9) Disconnect hydraulic line from slave (use flare wrench), catch fluid in a clean container, cap open line if possible.
- Theory: removing the line relieves connection for new slave; catching fluid prevents contamination and environmental harm.
10) Remove mounting bolts and withdraw slave cylinder assembly.
- Theory: frees failed unit; inspect dust boot, pushrod, and release fork for damage.
11) Compare old and new parts; replace any sealing washers or banjo bolt hardware.
- Theory: reused crush washers often leak; new hardware ensures proper sealing and torque.
12) Install new slave in place, torque bolts to factory spec, connect hydraulic line and tighten fitting to spec.
- Theory: correct seating and torque compresses sealing surfaces evenly and prevents leaks.
13) Refill master reservoir to the correct level with specified DOT fluid.
- Theory: the system needs an adequate fluid charge before bleeding; DOT oil compatibility is critical.
Bleeding the system — why and how (ordered)
14) Initial gravity/hand fill: let fluid settle and fill reservoir so line to slave has fluid.
- Theory: reduces amount of air to evacuate.
15) Bleed the slave: recommended methods in order of effectiveness:
- Two-person manual: one opens bleed nipple slightly, assistant presses and holds pedal, close nipple, assistant releases pedal, repeat until no bubbles.
- Vacuum bleeder: attach vacuum to bleed nipple and open; pump pedal slowly until clear fluid flows.
- Pressure/force bleeder: pressurize reservoir to push fluid through while opening bleed nipple.
- Theory: air is compressible and must be removed from the line and slave piston cavity; bleeding pushes fluid out and displaces air so the system is full of incompressible fluid.
16) Bleed sequence: bleed slave with pedal depressed/released cycles until no bubbles; top up reservoir frequently to avoid drawing air into master.
- Theory: if reservoir runs empty, you’ll reintroduce air and need to repeat bleeding. Ensure master is not the source of failure.
17) Bench or bench-bleed master if suspect: if master cylinder is old or internal-sinking pedal persists, bench-bleed or replace master.
- Theory: internal master failure will not be fixed by replacing slave; bench bleeding ensures master assembly itself doesn’t hold air.
Final checks — proving the repair
18) Function test: with vehicle safely supported, cycle pedal several times, engine off, and check for firm pedal and no leaks.
- Theory: firm pedal with correct free play indicates restored hydraulic pressure and correct piston seating.
19) Road test: short cautious drive to confirm clutch engagement/disengagement, no slipping or dragging, and pedal consistency.
- Theory: under load you confirm correct release timing and that no air remains.
20) Re-torque fittings and re-check fluid after a brief test drive; check reservoir and top up.
- Theory: thermal expansion and settling may change levels; re-check prevents future air ingress.
How each action fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing slave: removes damaged seals/piston/corroded bore so the slave can hold pressure and produce correct piston travel.
- Correct hydraulic connection and new washers: stop external leaks that lower reservoir and let air in.
- Proper bleeding: removes air so fluid transmits pressure instead of compressing, restoring pedal firmness and travel precision.
- Inspection of master and linkage: ensures the source of failure isn’t upstream; if master is leaking or internally bad, replacing slave alone won’t fix pedal sinking.
Common pitfalls and how the theory prevents them
- Leaving air in system → spongy pedal: prevent by thorough bleeding, keeping reservoir full.
- Reusing crush washers or corroded fittings → repeat leak: always replace sealing hardware.
- Ignoring master cylinder faults → continued pedal sink: diagnose master with pedal-sink test before or after slave replacement.
- Using wrong fluid or contaminating reservoir → seal damage: use manufacturer-specified DOT fluid only.
Quick checklist (final)
- Confirm leak or internal failure
- Get correct slave and hardware, DOT fluid
- Safely access and remove old slave
- Install new slave with new sealing washers, torque to spec
- Fill and bleed until no air, keep reservoir filled
- Test pedal feel and clutch engagement, recheck for leaks
No questions.
rteeqp73
Tools & supplies
- New PCV valve (match VIN/engine) and any replacement O-ring/grommet or breather/oil-separator if used
- Small flat-blade screwdriver and Phillips screwdriver
- Pliers (needle-nose and hose-clamp style)
- 1/4" & 3/8" ratchets, extensions, sockets (8, 10, 12 mm common)
- Small pick or dental probe (for O-rings/grommets)
- Clean shop rags and paper towels
- Nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- Torque wrench (if you remove valve cover or bolts; 1/4" drive ok)
- Container for oil/old parts, disposable bags for contaminated rags
- Optional: hand vacuum pump (to test), compressed air (low-pressure blowout)
Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine. Hot aluminum/plastic and pressurized systems cause burns.
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake. Chock wheels.
- Wear gloves and safety glasses. Keep rags away from ignition sources (oil soaked rags are combustible).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal only if you will be removing ignition coils or sensors; not strictly required for PCV swap but recommended if you’ll disturb wiring.
- Dispose of oil-soaked rags and old parts according to local rules.
Identify the PCV on a Hilux (general guidance)
- Petrol engines (e.g., 2.7 2TR-FE): PCV valve is usually on the valve cover or in a small rubber grommet on the top of the rocker/valve cover, with a vacuum hose to the intake manifold.
- Diesel engines (e.g., 1KD-FTV): Many use an oil-separator/breather assembly with a valve integrated; location is typically on or near the rocker cover and feeds the intake via a larger hose.
- If unsure, trace the hose from the intake manifold toward the valve cover/rocker cover — PCV / breather is at the end of that hose.
Parts required
- Correct PCV valve for engine (OEM or quality aftermarket).
- Grommet/O-ring if the PCV seals into a rubber grommet (replace if brittle).
- If Hilux model uses an oil-separator element, replace that if oil-soaked or cracked.
- New small hose clamps or replacement vacuum hose if the old is cracked.
Step-by-step replacement (typical petrol-style PCV on valve cover)
1. Prepare: let engine cool, wear PPE, chock wheels.
2. Remove obstructions: remove engine cover (snap-on) or any air intake ducting that blocks access. Use screwdriver/sockets as needed.
3. Locate PCV: find the small valve protruding from the valve cover with a vacuum hose attached.
4. Inspect: look for oil residue, cracked hose, brittle grommet. If oil-soaked or valve’s moving parts appear clogged, replace both valve and grommet.
5. Release hose clamp: use needle-nose pliers or flat screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the vacuum hose at the PCV valve end. For clamp pliers, squeeze and slide clamp back along hose.
6. Disconnect hose: twist gently while pulling the hose off the PCV valve. If stuck, use a twisting motion and a small flat screwdriver to pry carefully—don’t tear the hose or damage the valve cover.
7. Remove PCV: some PCV valves pull straight out from a grommet; others have a bayonet or clip. Pull straight while wiggling. If the PCV is threaded, use appropriate pliers or socket. Use pick to lift the old grommet out if replacing.
8. Clean seat: wipe the valve cover hole and mating surfaces with a rag. Use low-pressure compressed air to clear dirt so nothing falls into port.
9. Install new grommet/O-ring: if supplied, lubricate lightly with clean engine oil and press into valve cover hole until seated flush.
10. Install new PCV valve: push the valve into the grommet until it snaps/seats. Ensure orientation correct (check part: vacuum side to intake).
11. Reattach vacuum hose: push hose onto PCV valve nipple and secure clamp. Ensure hose is routed as before — no kinks.
12. Reassemble intake/engine cover: reinstall removed parts. If you removed ignition coils, tighten to specified torque (manufacturer’s spec).
13. Start engine: run for a few minutes, check for vacuum leaks, listen for hissing, inspect for oil leaks around the valve and hose.
14. Test: with the engine idling, remove the PCV quickly (if accessible) and cover the hole with finger — you should feel vacuum if working. Or use a hand vacuum pump to confirm valve holds vacuum. Replace immediately after test.
Step-by-step replacement (diesel oil-separator type)
1. Prepare as above and remove plastic covers/airbox to expose breather assembly.
2. Remove hose clamps and vacuum/breather hoses from the oil-separator assembly.
3. Unbolt the oil-separator (often 2–4 small bolts 8–10 mm). Support assembly as you remove bolts.
4. Remove separator and inspect for oil pooling; if heavily contaminated, replace separator element or entire assembly.
5. Remove old PCV valve or internals, replace with new part and grommet. Clean sealing surface on the valve cover.
6. Reinstall separator and hoses, torque bolts to light spec (usually 6–10 Nm; avoid over-torqueing plastic).
7. Reconnect all hoses and start engine; check for leaks.
How each tool is used — short notes
- Ratchet/sockets: remove any bolts holding intake components, separator or valve cover bits. Use extension to reach recessed fasteners.
- Screwdrivers: pry off clips, loosen hose clamps, remove engine cover fasteners.
- Pliers (needle-nose): pull off small hoses and clamps; hold small components.
- Hose-clamp pliers: compress and slide spring-type clamps on vacuum hoses.
- Pick/dental probe: lift old O-ring/grommet without damaging mating surfaces.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts (valve cover, separator) to specified torque to avoid cracking plastic/warping metal.
- Vacuum pump: test valve by pulling vacuum; PCV should hold and let vacuum through one-way only.
- Compressed air (low pressure): blow out dirt around port before inserting new PCV, not into engine.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using wrong part: match part number to VIN/engine. Wrong flow direction or dimensions lead to vacuum leaks.
- Damaging brittle grommet: remove slowly; replace grommet rather than reusing old one.
- Breaking plastic housings: don’t overtighten bolts or use excessive leverage. Use correct socket sizes.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: dirt falling into the crankcase/inlet causes contamination — clean first.
- Reusing cracked vacuum hose: replace if brittle; a small leak causes rough idle/PCV failure symptoms.
- Not seating PCV fully: ensure clicking/locking engagement; test for vacuum after install.
- Overtightening hose clamps: can cut hoses; use correct clamp tension.
- Forgetting to route hoses correctly: wrong routing can create kinks or heat exposure.
- Forgetting to inspect oil separator on diesels: a clogged separator causes excess oil consumption and smoke.
Diagnostics quick checks (before replacing)
- Shake test: remove PCV (if accessible). A good valve often “clicks” or has a loose internal plunger; if stuck solid, replace.
- Vacuum/hand pump: valve should hold vacuum on one side and not on the other (one-way).
- Symptoms of bad PCV: oil consumption, oil in intake, rough idle, hissing, check engine light (P0171/P0174 can be related to vacuum leaks).
Final notes
- Replace PCV at recommended intervals or if symptoms present. On diesels, replace the entire breather/separator assembly more often if oil starts pooling.
- Keep used parts/oil-contaminated rags sealed and dispose properly.
Done.
rteeqp73
- New PCV valve (match VIN/engine) and any replacement O-ring/grommet or breather/oil-separator if used
- Small flat-blade screwdriver and Phillips screwdriver
- Pliers (needle-nose and hose-clamp style)
- 1/4" & 3/8" ratchets, extensions, sockets (8, 10, 12 mm common)
- Small pick or dental probe (for O-rings/grommets)
- Clean shop rags and paper towels
- Nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- Torque wrench (if you remove valve cover or bolts; 1/4" drive ok)
- Container for oil/old parts, disposable bags for contaminated rags
- Optional: hand vacuum pump (to test), compressed air (low-pressure blowout)
Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine. Hot aluminum/plastic and pressurized systems cause burns.
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake. Chock wheels.
- Wear gloves and safety glasses. Keep rags away from ignition sources (oil soaked rags are combustible).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal only if you will be removing ignition coils or sensors; not strictly required for PCV swap but recommended if you’ll disturb wiring.
- Dispose of oil-soaked rags and old parts according to local rules.
Identify the PCV on a Hilux (general guidance)
- Petrol engines (e.g., 2.7 2TR-FE): PCV valve is usually on the valve cover or in a small rubber grommet on the top of the rocker/valve cover, with a vacuum hose to the intake manifold.
- Diesel engines (e.g., 1KD-FTV): Many use an oil-separator/breather assembly with a valve integrated; location is typically on or near the rocker cover and feeds the intake via a larger hose.
- If unsure, trace the hose from the intake manifold toward the valve cover/rocker cover — PCV / breather is at the end of that hose.
Parts required
- Correct PCV valve for engine (OEM or quality aftermarket).
- Grommet/O-ring if the PCV seals into a rubber grommet (replace if brittle).
- If Hilux model uses an oil-separator element, replace that if oil-soaked or cracked.
- New small hose clamps or replacement vacuum hose if the old is cracked.
Step-by-step replacement (typical petrol-style PCV on valve cover)
1. Prepare: let engine cool, wear PPE, chock wheels.
2. Remove obstructions: remove engine cover (snap-on) or any air intake ducting that blocks access. Use screwdriver/sockets as needed.
3. Locate PCV: find the small valve protruding from the valve cover with a vacuum hose attached.
4. Inspect: look for oil residue, cracked hose, brittle grommet. If oil-soaked or valve’s moving parts appear clogged, replace both valve and grommet.
5. Release hose clamp: use needle-nose pliers or flat screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the vacuum hose at the PCV valve end. For clamp pliers, squeeze and slide clamp back along hose.
6. Disconnect hose: twist gently while pulling the hose off the PCV valve. If stuck, use a twisting motion and a small flat screwdriver to pry carefully—don’t tear the hose or damage the valve cover.
7. Remove PCV: some PCV valves pull straight out from a grommet; others have a bayonet or clip. Pull straight while wiggling. If the PCV is threaded, use appropriate pliers or socket. Use pick to lift the old grommet out if replacing.
8. Clean seat: wipe the valve cover hole and mating surfaces with a rag. Use low-pressure compressed air to clear dirt so nothing falls into port.
9. Install new grommet/O-ring: if supplied, lubricate lightly with clean engine oil and press into valve cover hole until seated flush.
10. Install new PCV valve: push the valve into the grommet until it snaps/seats. Ensure orientation correct (check part: vacuum side to intake).
11. Reattach vacuum hose: push hose onto PCV valve nipple and secure clamp. Ensure hose is routed as before — no kinks.
12. Reassemble intake/engine cover: reinstall removed parts. If you removed ignition coils, tighten to specified torque (manufacturer’s spec).
13. Start engine: run for a few minutes, check for vacuum leaks, listen for hissing, inspect for oil leaks around the valve and hose.
14. Test: with the engine idling, remove the PCV quickly (if accessible) and cover the hole with finger — you should feel vacuum if working. Or use a hand vacuum pump to confirm valve holds vacuum. Replace immediately after test.
Step-by-step replacement (diesel oil-separator type)
1. Prepare as above and remove plastic covers/airbox to expose breather assembly.
2. Remove hose clamps and vacuum/breather hoses from the oil-separator assembly.
3. Unbolt the oil-separator (often 2–4 small bolts 8–10 mm). Support assembly as you remove bolts.
4. Remove separator and inspect for oil pooling; if heavily contaminated, replace separator element or entire assembly.
5. Remove old PCV valve or internals, replace with new part and grommet. Clean sealing surface on the valve cover.
6. Reinstall separator and hoses, torque bolts to light spec (usually 6–10 Nm; avoid over-torqueing plastic).
7. Reconnect all hoses and start engine; check for leaks.
How each tool is used — short notes
- Ratchet/sockets: remove any bolts holding intake components, separator or valve cover bits. Use extension to reach recessed fasteners.
- Screwdrivers: pry off clips, loosen hose clamps, remove engine cover fasteners.
- Pliers (needle-nose): pull off small hoses and clamps; hold small components.
- Hose-clamp pliers: compress and slide spring-type clamps on vacuum hoses.
- Pick/dental probe: lift old O-ring/grommet without damaging mating surfaces.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts (valve cover, separator) to specified torque to avoid cracking plastic/warping metal.
- Vacuum pump: test valve by pulling vacuum; PCV should hold and let vacuum through one-way only.
- Compressed air (low pressure): blow out dirt around port before inserting new PCV, not into engine.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using wrong part: match part number to VIN/engine. Wrong flow direction or dimensions lead to vacuum leaks.
- Damaging brittle grommet: remove slowly; replace grommet rather than reusing old one.
- Breaking plastic housings: don’t overtighten bolts or use excessive leverage. Use correct socket sizes.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: dirt falling into the crankcase/inlet causes contamination — clean first.
- Reusing cracked vacuum hose: replace if brittle; a small leak causes rough idle/PCV failure symptoms.
- Not seating PCV fully: ensure clicking/locking engagement; test for vacuum after install.
- Overtightening hose clamps: can cut hoses; use correct clamp tension.
- Forgetting to route hoses correctly: wrong routing can create kinks or heat exposure.
- Forgetting to inspect oil separator on diesels: a clogged separator causes excess oil consumption and smoke.
Diagnostics quick checks (before replacing)
- Shake test: remove PCV (if accessible). A good valve often “clicks” or has a loose internal plunger; if stuck solid, replace.
- Vacuum/hand pump: valve should hold vacuum on one side and not on the other (one-way).
- Symptoms of bad PCV: oil consumption, oil in intake, rough idle, hissing, check engine light (P0171/P0174 can be related to vacuum leaks).
Final notes
- Replace PCV at recommended intervals or if symptoms present. On diesels, replace the entire breather/separator assembly more often if oil starts pooling.
- Keep used parts/oil-contaminated rags sealed and dispose properly.
Done.
rteeqp73
### Flexplate Replacement on a Toyota Hilux
#### Overview
The flexplate is a critical component in vehicles with automatic transmissions. It connects the engine's crankshaft to the torque converter, allowing for the transfer of power from the engine to the transmission. Understanding the flexplate's function and how to replace it is essential for maintaining your vehicle's performance.
#### Theory Behind the Flexplate
- **Function**: The flexplate acts as a bridge between the engine and the transmission. It allows for some flex and movement, accommodating the vibrations and misalignments that can occur during engine operation.
- **Torque Converter**: The flexplate is bolted to the torque converter, which uses hydraulic fluid to transfer engine power to the transmission.
- **Vibration Dampening**: As the engine runs, it produces vibrations. The flexplate absorbs some of these vibrations, preventing damage to the torque converter and transmission.
#### Why Replacement is Needed
- **Cracks or Damage**: Over time, the flexplate can develop cracks or become warped due to stress and heat, which can lead to failure.
- **Noise**: A failing flexplate may produce a rattling or grinding noise, indicating it's time for replacement.
- **Transmission Issues**: A damaged flexplate can cause slipping or difficulty in shifting gears.
#### Components Needed
1. **New Flexplate**: Ensure it is compatible with your Toyota Hilux model.
2. **Torque Converter**: If necessary, replace it alongside the flexplate.
3. **Flexplate Bolts**: New bolts are recommended, as old ones may stretch or weaken.
4. **Gasket or Sealant**: For the transmission side, if applicable.
5. **Tools**:
- Socket set (metric)
- Torque wrench
- Screwdrivers
- Jack and jack stands
- Transmission jack or engine hoist
- Safety gloves and goggles
#### Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
1. **Preparation**:
- **Safety First**: Disconnect the battery to avoid electrical issues.
- **Lift the Vehicle**: Use a jack to raise the front of the Hilux and secure it with jack stands.
2. **Remove the Transmission**:
- **Drain Transmission Fluid**: Locate the drain plug and let the fluid drain into a pan.
- **Disconnect Components**: Remove any components obstructing the transmission, such as the drive shaft, exhaust, and any electrical connectors.
- **Support the Transmission**: Use a transmission jack to support the weight of the transmission.
- **Unbolt the Transmission**: Remove the bolts connecting the transmission to the engine block. Carefully slide the transmission away from the engine.
3. **Access the Flexplate**:
- **Remove the Torque Converter**: Unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate.
- **Inspect**: Check the torque converter for wear or damage; replace if necessary.
- **Unbolt the Flexplate**: Remove the bolts securing the flexplate to the crankshaft. Note the pattern for reinstallation.
4. **Install the New Flexplate**:
- **Align and Position**: Place the new flexplate onto the crankshaft, ensuring it aligns with the dowel pins (if applicable).
- **Secure**: Bolt the flexplate to the crankshaft, tightening to the manufacturer's specified torque.
5. **Reinstall the Torque Converter**:
- **Position the Torque Converter**: Align it with the flexplate and secure it with the bolts.
- **Ensure Proper Seating**: Make sure the torque converter is fully seated against the flexplate.
6. **Reattach the Transmission**:
- **Slide the Transmission Back**: Carefully move the transmission back into position.
- **Bolt it Up**: Secure the transmission to the engine block with the bolts.
- **Reconnect Components**: Reinstall any components you had removed earlier, including the drive shaft and exhaust.
7. **Refill Transmission Fluid**:
- **Check Levels**: Refill the transmission with fluid according to the manufacturer's specifications.
8. **Final Checks**:
- **Reconnect the Battery**: Ensure all electrical connections are secure.
- **Test Drive**: Start the engine and check for unusual noises or issues while driving.
#### Common Issues
- **Improper Alignment**: If the flexplate is not aligned correctly, it can lead to vibration and noise.
- **Loose Bolts**: Ensure all bolts are tightened to prevent future failures.
- **Torque Converter Issues**: A damaged torque converter can lead to repeated flexplate failure.
### Conclusion
Replacing the flexplate in a Toyota Hilux is a detailed process that involves removing the transmission and ensuring proper alignment and torque during reinstallation. Understanding the flexplate's role in power transfer and vibration dampening can help you maintain your vehicle's performance and longevity. Always consult your vehicle's service manual for specific torque specifications and procedures.
rteeqp73
#### Overview
The flexplate is a critical component in vehicles with automatic transmissions. It connects the engine's crankshaft to the torque converter, allowing for the transfer of power from the engine to the transmission. Understanding the flexplate's function and how to replace it is essential for maintaining your vehicle's performance.
#### Theory Behind the Flexplate
- **Function**: The flexplate acts as a bridge between the engine and the transmission. It allows for some flex and movement, accommodating the vibrations and misalignments that can occur during engine operation.
- **Torque Converter**: The flexplate is bolted to the torque converter, which uses hydraulic fluid to transfer engine power to the transmission.
- **Vibration Dampening**: As the engine runs, it produces vibrations. The flexplate absorbs some of these vibrations, preventing damage to the torque converter and transmission.
#### Why Replacement is Needed
- **Cracks or Damage**: Over time, the flexplate can develop cracks or become warped due to stress and heat, which can lead to failure.
- **Noise**: A failing flexplate may produce a rattling or grinding noise, indicating it's time for replacement.
- **Transmission Issues**: A damaged flexplate can cause slipping or difficulty in shifting gears.
#### Components Needed
1. **New Flexplate**: Ensure it is compatible with your Toyota Hilux model.
2. **Torque Converter**: If necessary, replace it alongside the flexplate.
3. **Flexplate Bolts**: New bolts are recommended, as old ones may stretch or weaken.
4. **Gasket or Sealant**: For the transmission side, if applicable.
5. **Tools**:
- Socket set (metric)
- Torque wrench
- Screwdrivers
- Jack and jack stands
- Transmission jack or engine hoist
- Safety gloves and goggles
#### Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
1. **Preparation**:
- **Safety First**: Disconnect the battery to avoid electrical issues.
- **Lift the Vehicle**: Use a jack to raise the front of the Hilux and secure it with jack stands.
2. **Remove the Transmission**:
- **Drain Transmission Fluid**: Locate the drain plug and let the fluid drain into a pan.
- **Disconnect Components**: Remove any components obstructing the transmission, such as the drive shaft, exhaust, and any electrical connectors.
- **Support the Transmission**: Use a transmission jack to support the weight of the transmission.
- **Unbolt the Transmission**: Remove the bolts connecting the transmission to the engine block. Carefully slide the transmission away from the engine.
3. **Access the Flexplate**:
- **Remove the Torque Converter**: Unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate.
- **Inspect**: Check the torque converter for wear or damage; replace if necessary.
- **Unbolt the Flexplate**: Remove the bolts securing the flexplate to the crankshaft. Note the pattern for reinstallation.
4. **Install the New Flexplate**:
- **Align and Position**: Place the new flexplate onto the crankshaft, ensuring it aligns with the dowel pins (if applicable).
- **Secure**: Bolt the flexplate to the crankshaft, tightening to the manufacturer's specified torque.
5. **Reinstall the Torque Converter**:
- **Position the Torque Converter**: Align it with the flexplate and secure it with the bolts.
- **Ensure Proper Seating**: Make sure the torque converter is fully seated against the flexplate.
6. **Reattach the Transmission**:
- **Slide the Transmission Back**: Carefully move the transmission back into position.
- **Bolt it Up**: Secure the transmission to the engine block with the bolts.
- **Reconnect Components**: Reinstall any components you had removed earlier, including the drive shaft and exhaust.
7. **Refill Transmission Fluid**:
- **Check Levels**: Refill the transmission with fluid according to the manufacturer's specifications.
8. **Final Checks**:
- **Reconnect the Battery**: Ensure all electrical connections are secure.
- **Test Drive**: Start the engine and check for unusual noises or issues while driving.
#### Common Issues
- **Improper Alignment**: If the flexplate is not aligned correctly, it can lead to vibration and noise.
- **Loose Bolts**: Ensure all bolts are tightened to prevent future failures.
- **Torque Converter Issues**: A damaged torque converter can lead to repeated flexplate failure.
### Conclusion
Replacing the flexplate in a Toyota Hilux is a detailed process that involves removing the transmission and ensuring proper alignment and torque during reinstallation. Understanding the flexplate's role in power transfer and vibration dampening can help you maintain your vehicle's performance and longevity. Always consult your vehicle's service manual for specific torque specifications and procedures.
rteeqp73
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