Toyota started the production of 3.0 liter 3VZ-FE engine in 1987 as the new engine for Toyota 4Runner. This engine was installed in other off-road Toyota models in the future. The engine is similar to its predecessor the 2VZ engine, but the more significant displacement is not the one difference.The cast iron cylinder block looks the same, but it is taller by 20 mm (the height is 223 mm). The angle between cylinders in V-shape configuration of the block is 60 deg. Inside the block, there is new forged crankshaft with nine counterweights and 82 mm stroke.The early version of this engine 3VZ-E has SOHC aluminum cylinder heads and original pistons. The compression ratio of these engines is only 9.0:1. The redeveloped version and more performance engine the 3VZ-FE was produced from 1992 to 1997. The 3VZ-FE got aluminum DOHC heads with the increased diameter of the intake valves to 34 mm from 33 mm. The engine doesn't have hydraulic lifters. The shape of intake valves also was changed. 27.3 mm is the diameter of the exhaust valves. There are numbers for adjusting valve gaps: 0.25-0.35 mm intake, 0.15-0.25 mm exhaust.3VZ camshaft specs: duration - 230 intake 230 exhaust, 12 deg overlap, 7.85 mm intake lift (or .31"), 7.6 mm exhaust lift (or .30"). Timing belt drives the intake cams. The exhaust cam is driven by intake camshaft through gear in the middle of the cylinder head. The engine has variable geometry intake manifold called ACIS by Toyota. The exhaust system also was tuned and optimized.The engine was designed to be installed with 15 deg angle to use it in many applications. The manufacturer slowly replaced 3VZ-FE engine since 1994 by 1MZ-FE, but 3VZ got new life as the 3.4 liter 5VZ-FE in 1995.

- **Understanding the Turbocharger**:
- The turbocharger on the Toyota 3VZ-FE increases engine efficiency by forcing more air into the combustion chamber. If it's malfunctioning, you may need to repair or replace it.

- **Tools Required**:
- **Socket Set**: Used to remove bolts and nuts on the turbo and associated components. Ensure you have metric sizes (e.g., 10mm, 12mm, 14mm).
- **Wrench Set**: Helpful for loosening bolts in tight spaces; an adjustable wrench can also be used.
- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications, preventing damage from over-tightening.
- **Screwdrivers**: Flathead and Phillips for removing clamps and other components.
- **Pliers**: Useful for gripping and twisting hoses and clamps.
- **Oil Filter Wrench** (if changing oil): This may be necessary if you need to remove the oil filter during the process.
- **Shop Vacuum or Compressed Air**: To clean any debris from the turbo area.
- **Gasket Scraper**: For removing old gaskets from surfaces, ensuring a good seal with new gaskets.

- **Safety Gear**:
- **Gloves**: Protects your hands from dirt and sharp edges.
- **Safety Glasses**: Protects your eyes from debris.

- **Preparation Steps**:
- Disconnect the battery to prevent any electrical issues.
- Drain the engine oil if necessary, especially if you are replacing the turbocharger. This may require an oil pan or oil catch basin.

- **Turbocharger Removal Steps**:
- **Locate the Turbo**: Find the turbocharger, typically mounted near the exhaust manifold.
- **Disconnect Inlet and Outlet Hoses**: Use pliers to loosen clamps and pull off the hoses.
- **Remove Exhaust and Intake Manifolds**: Use a socket and wrench to remove the bolts. Keep track of where each bolt goes.
- **Detach the Turbocharger**: Remove the bolts securing the turbo to the manifold; ensure to support it as you do this.

- **Inspection of Turbocharger**:
- Check for any visible damage (cracks, leaks, excessive play in the turbine shaft).
- If there is significant damage, replacement may be necessary.

- **Replacement Parts**:
- **Gaskets**: New gaskets are essential to prevent leaks. Old gaskets may be damaged and won't create a proper seal.
- **Oil Seals or O-Rings**: If these are leaking oil, they need replacement to prevent further damage.
- **Turbocharger**: If the inspection indicates a failure (excessive play, scoring), a new turbo should be purchased.

- **Turbocharger Installation**:
- **Clean Surfaces**: Use a gasket scraper to ensure a clean surface for new gaskets.
- **Apply New Gaskets**: Place new gaskets on the turbo and engine surfaces.
- **Bolt Turbocharger**: Secure the turbocharger in place using a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
- **Reconnect Hoses**: Reattach inlet and outlet hoses, ensuring clamps are tight.

- **Reassembly**:
- Reinstall the intake and exhaust manifolds, ensuring all bolts are tightened to specifications.
- Reconnect any electrical connectors and hoses that were disconnected.

- **Final Steps**:
- Refill engine oil if necessary.
- Reconnect the battery.
- Start the engine and check for leaks around the turbo area.

- **Testing**:
- After installation, take the car for a short drive. Monitor the turbo's performance and check for any abnormal sounds or leaks.

- **Regular Maintenance**:
- Monitor oil levels and change the oil regularly to prolong turbocharger life.

Following these steps should help you successfully repair or replace the turbocharger on a Toyota 3VZ-FE. Always refer to a repair manual specific to your vehicle model for additional details and specifications.
rteeqp73

Tools & supplies
- Spin wheel balancer (static/dynamic balancer) with correct shaft/adapters/cones (cone set, collets, hub-centric adapters).
- Tire changer & bead breaker (if tire removal required).
- Weight hammer, weight pliers (for clip-on), adhesive weight applicator or heavy roller.
- Wheel weight assortment (clip-on and stick-on/lead-free adhesive), cleaning solvent (isopropyl alcohol).
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for radial/lateral runout checks).
- Torque wrench, lug wrench, jack and jackstands or 2-post lift, wheel chocks.
- Air compressor, tire gauge, valve core tool, replacement valve stems/cores, TPMS tool (if equipped).
- Gloves, safety glasses, shop rags.

Safety precautions
- Work on level surface. Chock opposing wheels. Use jackstands or a lift — never rely on jack only.
- Wear eye protection. Keep hands clear when machine is spinning.
- Verify vehicle wheel torque spec before reinstallation and use calibrated torque wrench.
- If wheel has TPMS, disable/protect sensor and use proper procedures to avoid damage.
- Check balancer speed limits and do not exceed recommended RPM.

Overview of process
You’re going to remove the wheel, inspect it, mount it correctly on the balancer (centered), enter wheel data, spin, apply weights where the balancer indicates, re-spin to confirm, and reinstall. If runout or tire damage is present, repair/replace before balancing.

Step-by-step

1) Prep and remove wheel
- Loosen lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.
- Raise vehicle with jack or lift and support with jackstands.
- Remove wheel. Note valve stem location (reference for weight placement if needed).

2) Inspect tire & rim
- Visual: bulges, cuts, tread separation, missing cord or belt separation; replace tire if damaged.
- Rim: bent, cracked, severe corrosion at mounting face — replace or repair rim if damaged.
- Check valve stem and TPMS. Replace leaking valve stem or faulty TPMS sensor before balancing.
- Clean wheel mounting surface and hub face of rust/paint/debris.

3) Decide on on-car vs off-car and dismount tire if necessary
- Off-car balancing (recommended): remove wheel assembly from vehicle and balance on spin balancer.
- If tire needs dismounting (repair or replacement), use tire changer, bead lubricant and follow safety for bead breaking. Replace valve stem if you remove tire.

4) Mount wheel to balancer correctly
- Choose the proper centering adapter (cone or hub-centric ring). For hub-centric wheels use hub ring to center on balancer to mimic car hub.
- Slide wheel onto balancer shaft and seat it with the cone or centering device. Hand-tighten nut to draw wheel firmly to the adapter. Then torque the balancer nut per balancer manual — wheel must be perfectly centered and tight.
- If wheel is lug-centered only, use appropriate adapters/pins or the balancer’s lug studs to ensure centering.

5) Enter wheel parameters into balancer
- Enter rim diameter and width, and select measurement unit (grams/ounces). Select alloy or steel if prompted (some machines change weight type/location).
- If machine has “static only” or “dynamic” options, use dynamic for modern tires/wheels.

6) First spin and readout
- Close hood/guard and start balancer spin.
- Read the machine’s display — it will usually show inner and outer weight locations and the quantity (e.g., Inner 20 g at 3 o’clock, Outer 10 g at 11 o’clock).
- Note any machine prompts about runout or high residual that suggest tire/wheel issues.

7) Prepare rim surfaces and apply weights
- Clean weight areas with alcohol to remove grease/dirt (especially for adhesive weights).
- For alloy wheels use adhesive stick-on weights: remove backing, position at indicated location on inner or outer barrel flat areas or the inner well. Press and roll firmly; use wheel weight roller if available.
- For steel rims use clip-on weights: position on outer bead seat location (machine will show location); use weight pliers/hammer to seat clip-on securely. Do not clip onto thin painted lips of some alloys (will damage and can slip).
- If the machine gives offset positions (e.g., between inner and outer), follow machine’s instructions for weight stacking.

8) Re-spin and confirm
- Re-tighten or re-seat wheel on balancer if needed, then re-spin.
- Machine should now show residual imbalance within tolerance (usually small, e.g., <4–6 g or <0.1 oz depending on machine). If still out, remove weights and repeat or check for runout.

9) Check runout if balance won’t settle
- If repeated spins don’t reach tolerance, mount dial indicator: measure radial (vertical) and lateral (side) runout of rim/tire assembly.
- Typical acceptance: radial & lateral runout <0.060" (1.5 mm) — if larger, wheel or tire may be bent/out-of-round. Options: replace wheel or tire, or try rotating tire on rim to a different position that minimizes runout and then rebalance.

10) Final steps and reinstall
- Remove wheel from balancer, torque wheel nut on balancer if required, remove adapters.
- Reinstall wheel on vehicle. Torque lug nuts in star pattern to OEM spec (consult service manual; typical truck torque ~80–100 ft-lb — verify exact spec).
- Re-check lug torque after initial road test (10–20 miles).
- If TPMS present, check sensor status and tire pressure.

How the balancer tool is used (practical details)
- Centering: The cone (or hub-ring) forces concentric seating so the wheel’s centerline aligns with the balancer shaft. A mis-centered wheel gives false readings.
- Nut/clamping: A draw nut pulls the wheel tight to the cone/hub. Hand-start, then snug to seat; finish to specified clamp torque on machine.
- Data input: Diameter and width change the machine’s calculation of balance point; entering wrong values produces wrong weight locations.
- Static vs dynamic unbalance: The balancer measures both—the display typically shows two numbers/locations: static (single-plane) and dynamic (dual-plane). Place indicated weights on inner and outer planes as directed.
- Readout orientation: Most machines show weight positions relative to valve stem (valve at 12 o’clock baseline) — know whether the graphic uses valve stem as 12 o’clock or 6 o’clock and apply weights accordingly.
- Adhesive weights: press and roll to ensure full contact; poor adhesion = weights falling off later.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Wheel weights (clip-on and stick-on).
- Valve cores or valve stems (rubber stems on older wheels often replaced).
- TPMS sensors (if damaged or old).
- Wheels or tires if bent, cracked, or belts exposed.
- Hub-centric rings for aftermarket wheels (if needed to center).

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Dirty hub/rim or paint between mounting surfaces — causes runout and false imbalance.
- Using wrong centering method (lug-centric vs hub-centric) — produces incorrect readings.
- Applying clip-on weights to delicate alloy lips — damages finish and can slip off.
- Forgetting to replace leaking valve stems or damaged TPMS sensors before balancing.
- Not checking runout when imbalance won’t correct — chasing weights on a bent rim wastes time.
- Overrelying on adhesive weights on high-corrosion rims — they fall off if surface not prepped.
- Improper lug torque and not re-torquing after road test — safety hazard.

Quick acceptance criteria
- Final residual imbalance within machine tolerance (typically a few grams/0.1 oz).
- No vibration at highway speeds on a road test.
- No missing/broken rim, no cord/exposed belts on tire.

If you want, tell me whether you’ll be using an off-car spin balancer or a bubble/on-car balancer and whether the vehicle has TPMS; I’ll give exact torque spec and any vehicle-specific notes.
rteeqp73

### Gearbox Oil Change on a Toyota 3VZ-FE

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (including 10mm and 12mm sockets)
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Oil Catch Pan**
4. **Funnel**
5. **Rags or Shop Towels**
6. **Pliers** (for removing any clamps)
7. **Gearbox Oil** (check the vehicle manual for the correct specification)
8. **Oil Filter** (if applicable)
9. **Replacement Crush Washer** (for drain plug)
10. **Jack and Jack Stands** or a **Vehicle Lift**

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Wear Safety Glasses and Gloves**: Protect your eyes and skin from oil and debris.
2. **Work in a Well-Ventilated Area**: Avoid inhaling fumes from the oil.
3. **Ensure Vehicle is Secure**: Use jack stands when working underneath the vehicle.
4. **Avoid Hot Components**: Allow the vehicle to cool down before starting.

#### Step-by-Step Process:

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
- Gather all tools and materials.

2. **Lift the Vehicle**:
- Use a jack to lift the front of the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.

3. **Locate the Gearbox Drain Plug**:
- Identify the drain plug on the gearbox (usually at the bottom of the gearbox).

4. **Drain the Oil**:
- Place an oil catch pan under the drain plug.
- Use the correct socket to remove the drain plug. Allow the oil to fully drain into the pan.
- Replace the crush washer on the drain plug if needed.

5. **Remove the Fill Plug**:
- Locate the fill plug (usually on the side of the gearbox).
- Remove the fill plug to allow air in and facilitate draining.

6. **Inspect and Clean**:
- Clean the drain and fill plug threads with a rag. Check for metal shavings or debris in the old oil.
- If an oil filter is present, replace it at this time.

7. **Add New Gearbox Oil**:
- Using a funnel, pour the new gearbox oil into the fill hole. Refer to the vehicle manual for the exact amount.
- Check oil level using the fill plug hole (oil should be level with the edge of the hole).

8. **Replace Drain and Fill Plugs**:
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer and tighten it to the manufacturer’s specified torque.
- Reinstall the fill plug and tighten securely.

9. **Clean Up**:
- Wipe down any spilled oil and dispose of old oil and filter according to local regulations.

10. **Test Drive**:
- Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Check for leaks around the plugs.
- Take the vehicle for a short test drive and recheck the oil level after the drive.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Overfilling**: Always check the oil level after filling to avoid overfilling.
- **Neglecting Crush Washers**: Always replace the crush washer to prevent leaks.
- **Using Incorrect Oil**: Ensure you use the correct specification of gearbox oil as per the vehicle’s manual.
- **Forgetting to Replace Fill Plug**: Double-check that all plugs are secured before lowering the vehicle.
- **Not Cleaning the Area**: Clean any spills immediately to avoid slipping hazards.

By following these steps, you can successfully change the gearbox oil on a Toyota 3VZ-FE while ensuring safety and optimal performance of the vehicle.
rteeqp73