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Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & gear
- Clear flexible hose (3/8–1/2" ID), ~1–2 m
- Small clear plastic bottle (for bubble test) or graduated container
- Hose clamps or good-fitting rubber plug/seal for oil filler or dipstick tube
- Compression tester and/or leak-down tester with adapter for MF35 injector/glow-plug hole (recommended)
- Basic hand tools to remove injector/glow plug or oil filler/dipstick (sockets, screwdrivers, pliers)
- Shop rags, catch pan, degreaser
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, respirator if working in confined area
- Fire extinguisher nearby

Safety first
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area (diesel fumes/CO). Never run engine in an enclosed space.
- Keep hands/clothing away from moving parts (fan, belts, PTO).
- Engine and exhaust will be hot — avoid burns.
- Secure tractor (park brake on, wheels chocked).
- If you remove injectors/glow plugs, be careful with high-pressure fuel lines — relieve fuel system pressure first and keep fire risk minimal.

Two practical methods to check blow-by on an MF35
Method A — Quick “bubble” crankcase blow-by check (simple, no special gauge)
1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature (15–20 min). Blow-by is best checked warm.
2. Park tractor, set brake, chock wheels.
3. Locate oil filler or dipstick tube. On MF35 you’ll typically use the oil filler (or dipstick tube if the filler is not easily sealed).
4. Fit one end of the clear hose into the oil filler or dipstick tube. Seal the tube/hose joint with a good-fitting rubber plug or clamp so the hose is the only vent path.
5. Put the other hose end into the clear bottle partially filled with water (or a clear container). Bottle opening should be below water level so escaping crankcase gases bubble through.
6. Start the engine and idle it. Observe the bottle:
- Occasional small bubbles = normal.
- Continuous steady bubbling or a strong stream = excessive blow-by (worn rings/bores or valve problems).
7. Rev engine gently and observe changes. More blow-by under load is expected; heavy blow-by at idle is a clear sign of trouble.
8. Shut engine off, remove hose, reinstall cap/dipstick, clean up.

How the simple tool works: the hose routes crankcase vent gasses into water so you can visually see air escaping. It shows presence & relative volume of blow-by but does not quantify which cylinder or exact leakage path.

Method B — Proper diagnosis with compression and leak-down tests (recommended for accurate diagnosis)
A. Compression test (tells you if cylinder sealing/compression is low)
1. Warm engine to operating temp.
2. Remove air cleaner so engine can crank/idle normally.
3. Disable fuel/ignition per engine type (on diesel MF35 remove fuel to injectors or shut shut-off to prevent starting; on petrol remove spark).
4. Fit compression tester into each glow plug/spark plug hole in turn (use correct adapter).
5. Crank the engine with starter several seconds, record max compression per cylinder.
6. Compare cylinders: a consistent reading across cylinders is good. A low cylinder (15% or more lower than the average) indicates ring, valve, or head gasket problem and likely source of blow-by.

B. Leak-down test (pinpoints where compression is escaping)
1. With the engine at TDC for the cylinder being tested, connect the leak-down tester to the injector/glow-plug hole.
2. Supply regulated compressed air (usually ~100 psi) to the tester.
3. The tester gives a % leakage reading: low % = good sealing; high % = bad.
4. To locate leak path, listen/inspect while pressurized:
- Air escaping from dipstick/oil filler = piston rings/crankcase (blow-by).
- Air escaping from intake = intake valve leak.
- Air escaping from exhaust = exhaust valve leak.
- Air bubbling in radiator or coolant tank = head gasket leak.
5. Repeat for each cylinder and compare.

How the leak-down/compression tools are used: compression tester measures peak cranking pressure. Leak-down tester introduces air into the cylinder at TDC and quantifies percent leakage while you observe escape points to identify where compression is lost.

Interpretation / thresholds (general guidance)
- Bubble test: steady strong bubbling at idle = excessive blow-by. Small/occasional bubbles can be normal.
- Compression test: cylinders should be very similar; one cylinder >10–15% low vs others indicates problem.
- Leak-down: typical acceptable leakage is low (single-digit to low teens %). >20–25% is cause for internal inspection (rings/valves/head gasket).

Common causes and replacement parts
- Worn piston rings or cylinder bore wear → piston rings, pistons or cylinder re-bore and over-sized pistons.
- Worn valve seats/guides or burned valves → valves, valve seats, valve stem seals.
- Blown head gasket or cracked head → head gasket, cylinder head service.
- Faulty breather/PCV hose or oil filler cap → breather assembly, hose, oil cap/dipstick (cheap and easy to replace).
- Clogged crankcase ventilation forcing pressure into seals → clean/replace breather and hoses.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Testing cold engine — warms up first to get realistic blow-by.
- Not sealing the test connection — leaks at the seal give false low readings.
- Running engine in enclosed space — CO hazard.
- Blocking vents completely during test (never seal crankcase without a controlled vent or you'll build pressure and may cause damage).
- Misinterpreting bubble test — it’s qualitative; use compression/leak-down to confirm.
- Removing injectors/fuel lines and not reassembling or contaminating the system — keep parts clean and torque to spec.
- Using incorrect adapter sizes for compression/leak-down; can give false readings.

Typical next steps if excessive blow-by is confirmed
1. Check and renew breather/venting parts (inexpensive, often fixes minor symptoms).
2. Perform compression and leak-down tests to identify cylinder(s) at fault.
3. If rings/bores worn: plan for piston ring replacement, cylinder hone or re-bore and oversize pistons as needed.
4. If valves leaking: remove head, inspect/seat or replace valves and seats.
5. If head gasket failure: replace head gasket and check for head/cylinder warpage.

Final notes
- Start with the simple bubble test to confirm presence of blow-by, then use compression/leak-down to locate the fault.
- For an MF35, routine maintenance of the crankcase breather and correct routing of the breather tube to the air cleaner often prevents crankcase pressure issues.
- If internal engine work is required (rings, bore, valves, head gasket), expect a teardown and parts replacement; get service manual specs for torque and clearances.

No further questions.
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