Tools & gear
- Clear flexible hose (3/8–1/2" ID), ~1–2 m
- Small clear plastic bottle (for bubble test) or graduated container
- Hose clamps or good-fitting rubber plug/seal for oil filler or dipstick tube
- Compression tester and/or leak-down tester with adapter for MF35 injector/glow-plug hole (recommended)
- Basic hand tools to remove injector/glow plug or oil filler/dipstick (sockets, screwdrivers, pliers)
- Shop rags, catch pan, degreaser
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, respirator if working in confined area
- Fire extinguisher nearby

Safety first
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area (diesel fumes/CO). Never run engine in an enclosed space.
- Keep hands/clothing away from moving parts (fan, belts, PTO).
- Engine and exhaust will be hot — avoid burns.
- Secure tractor (park brake on, wheels chocked).
- If you remove injectors/glow plugs, be careful with high-pressure fuel lines — relieve fuel system pressure first and keep fire risk minimal.

Two practical methods to check blow-by on an MF35
Method A — Quick “bubble” crankcase blow-by check (simple, no special gauge)
1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature (15–20 min). Blow-by is best checked warm.
2. Park tractor, set brake, chock wheels.
3. Locate oil filler or dipstick tube. On MF35 you’ll typically use the oil filler (or dipstick tube if the filler is not easily sealed).
4. Fit one end of the clear hose into the oil filler or dipstick tube. Seal the tube/hose joint with a good-fitting rubber plug or clamp so the hose is the only vent path.
5. Put the other hose end into the clear bottle partially filled with water (or a clear container). Bottle opening should be below water level so escaping crankcase gases bubble through.
6. Start the engine and idle it. Observe the bottle:
- Occasional small bubbles = normal.
- Continuous steady bubbling or a strong stream = excessive blow-by (worn rings/bores or valve problems).
7. Rev engine gently and observe changes. More blow-by under load is expected; heavy blow-by at idle is a clear sign of trouble.
8. Shut engine off, remove hose, reinstall cap/dipstick, clean up.

How the simple tool works: the hose routes crankcase vent gasses into water so you can visually see air escaping. It shows presence & relative volume of blow-by but does not quantify which cylinder or exact leakage path.

Method B — Proper diagnosis with compression and leak-down tests (recommended for accurate diagnosis)
A. Compression test (tells you if cylinder sealing/compression is low)
1. Warm engine to operating temp.
2. Remove air cleaner so engine can crank/idle normally.
3. Disable fuel/ignition per engine type (on diesel MF35 remove fuel to injectors or shut shut-off to prevent starting; on petrol remove spark).
4. Fit compression tester into each glow plug/spark plug hole in turn (use correct adapter).
5. Crank the engine with starter several seconds, record max compression per cylinder.
6. Compare cylinders: a consistent reading across cylinders is good. A low cylinder (15% or more lower than the average) indicates ring, valve, or head gasket problem and likely source of blow-by.

B. Leak-down test (pinpoints where compression is escaping)
1. With the engine at TDC for the cylinder being tested, connect the leak-down tester to the injector/glow-plug hole.
2. Supply regulated compressed air (usually ~100 psi) to the tester.
3. The tester gives a % leakage reading: low % = good sealing; high % = bad.
4. To locate leak path, listen/inspect while pressurized:
- Air escaping from dipstick/oil filler = piston rings/crankcase (blow-by).
- Air escaping from intake = intake valve leak.
- Air escaping from exhaust = exhaust valve leak.
- Air bubbling in radiator or coolant tank = head gasket leak.
5. Repeat for each cylinder and compare.

How the leak-down/compression tools are used: compression tester measures peak cranking pressure. Leak-down tester introduces air into the cylinder at TDC and quantifies percent leakage while you observe escape points to identify where compression is lost.

Interpretation / thresholds (general guidance)
- Bubble test: steady strong bubbling at idle = excessive blow-by. Small/occasional bubbles can be normal.
- Compression test: cylinders should be very similar; one cylinder >10–15% low vs others indicates problem.
- Leak-down: typical acceptable leakage is low (single-digit to low teens %). >20–25% is cause for internal inspection (rings/valves/head gasket).

Common causes and replacement parts
- Worn piston rings or cylinder bore wear → piston rings, pistons or cylinder re-bore and over-sized pistons.
- Worn valve seats/guides or burned valves → valves, valve seats, valve stem seals.
- Blown head gasket or cracked head → head gasket, cylinder head service.
- Faulty breather/PCV hose or oil filler cap → breather assembly, hose, oil cap/dipstick (cheap and easy to replace).
- Clogged crankcase ventilation forcing pressure into seals → clean/replace breather and hoses.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Testing cold engine — warms up first to get realistic blow-by.
- Not sealing the test connection — leaks at the seal give false low readings.
- Running engine in enclosed space — CO hazard.
- Blocking vents completely during test (never seal crankcase without a controlled vent or you'll build pressure and may cause damage).
- Misinterpreting bubble test — it’s qualitative; use compression/leak-down to confirm.
- Removing injectors/fuel lines and not reassembling or contaminating the system — keep parts clean and torque to spec.
- Using incorrect adapter sizes for compression/leak-down; can give false readings.

Typical next steps if excessive blow-by is confirmed
1. Check and renew breather/venting parts (inexpensive, often fixes minor symptoms).
2. Perform compression and leak-down tests to identify cylinder(s) at fault.
3. If rings/bores worn: plan for piston ring replacement, cylinder hone or re-bore and oversize pistons as needed.
4. If valves leaking: remove head, inspect/seat or replace valves and seats.
5. If head gasket failure: replace head gasket and check for head/cylinder warpage.

Final notes
- Start with the simple bubble test to confirm presence of blow-by, then use compression/leak-down to locate the fault.
- For an MF35, routine maintenance of the crankcase breather and correct routing of the breather tube to the air cleaner often prevents crankcase pressure issues.
- If internal engine work is required (rings, bore, valves, head gasket), expect a teardown and parts replacement; get service manual specs for torque and clearances.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

### Overview of Manual Transmission Repair on a Massey Ferguson MF35 Tractor

#### Theory Behind Repair

Manual transmissions convert engine power into movement using gears, allowing the operator to select different speeds and torque levels. The Massey Ferguson MF35 uses a simple yet effective design, relying on a series of gears, shafts, and synchronizers to shift between different speeds. Repair is necessary when components wear out, fail, or become misaligned, which can lead to issues like slipping gears, difficulty shifting, or complete transmission failure.

### Components of a Manual Transmission

1. **Transmission Case**: The outer shell that houses all internal components.
2. **Input Shaft**: Connected to the engine, it transfers power into the transmission.
3. **Output Shaft**: Connects to the drive shaft and transfers power to the wheels.
4. **Gears**: Different sizes that allow for speed variations. There are usually multiple gears for different speed ranges (low, high, reverse).
5. **Synchronizers**: Help match the speeds of gears during shifting to enable smooth transitions.
6. **Shift Forks**: Move the gears into position when shifting.
7. **Shift Rods**: Linkages that connect the gear shifter to the shift forks.
8. **Bearings**: Keep the shafts in position and reduce friction.

### Common Issues

1. **Worn Gears**: Can lead to slipping or grinding noises.
2. **Failed Synchronizers**: Causes hard shifting or grinding during shifts.
3. **Faulty Bearings**: Can result in excessive play, noise, or difficulty in shifting.
4. **Misaligned Shift Rods**: Can create issues with engaging the correct gear.

### Tools Needed

- Socket set
- Wrench set
- Screwdriver set
- Pliers
- Torque wrench
- Gear oil
- Clean rags
- Transmission jack or hoist
- Service manual for MF35

### Step-by-Step Repair Process

#### 1. **Preparation**

- **Safety First**: Ensure the tractor is on a flat surface with the parking brake engaged. Disconnect the battery to prevent electrical issues.
- **Drain the Fluid**: Remove the drain plug from the transmission case to let out old gear oil. This can be messy, so have a pan ready.

#### 2. **Remove the Transmission**

- **Detach Linkages**: Use the socket and wrench to disconnect the shift rods from the transmission.
- **Disconnect Driveshaft**: Remove the bolts holding the driveshaft to the output shaft.
- **Unbolt Transmission**: Use the socket set to remove the bolts securing the transmission to the tractor frame.
- **Use a Jack**: Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Carefully lift and remove the transmission from the tractor.

#### 3. **Disassemble the Transmission**

- **Remove the Case**: Unscrew the bolts on the transmission case and carefully lift the top half off to expose internal components.
- **Inspect Components**: Take note of the condition of gears, bearings, and synchronizers. Look for signs of wear, pitting, or damage.

#### 4. **Replace Worn Parts**

- **Gears and Synchronizers**: If any gears or synchronizers are worn, replace them. Remove the old parts by unscrewing any retaining bolts or clips.
- **Bearings**: Check all bearings and replace any that show excessive wear or roughness. Use a bearing puller if necessary.

#### 5. **Reassemble the Transmission**

- **Clean Surfaces**: Ensure all mating surfaces are clean. Remove old gasket material and debris.
- **Install New Parts**: Begin reassembling the transmission by installing new gears and synchronizers. Ensure they are seated correctly.
- **Reattach the Case**: Place the top half of the transmission case back on and secure with bolts, following the recommended torque specifications from the service manual.

#### 6. **Reinstall the Transmission**

- **Position the Transmission**: Use the jack to lift the transmission back into position on the tractor frame.
- **Bolt Down**: Secure the transmission with bolts to the frame, ensuring everything is aligned.
- **Reconnect Driveshaft and Linkages**: Reattach the driveshaft and linkages, ensuring everything is properly secured.

#### 7. **Refill with Gear Oil**

- **Add New Oil**: Replace the drain plug and refill the transmission with the appropriate gear oil as specified in the service manual.

#### 8. **Final Checks**

- **Reconnect Battery**: Reattach the battery and check connections.
- **Test Shift**: Start the tractor and test the transmission by shifting through all gears while stationary.

### Conclusion

Manual transmission repair on a Massey Ferguson MF35 requires careful attention to detail and an understanding of how the components work together. By following these steps and understanding what can go wrong, you can perform maintenance and repairs effectively. Always refer to the service manual for specific torque specifications and part numbers.
rteeqp73

Below is a practical, beginner-friendly guide to “suspension alignment” for a Massey‑Ferguson MF35. On this tractor you’re essentially aligning the front steering/axle geometry (toe, plus checking kingpins, tie rods, bearings and steering linkages). I’ll explain the purpose and theory, describe every relevant component you’ll touch, give step‑by‑step actions, how to measure and adjust, and list what can go wrong — all without fluff.

Important safety notes up front
- Work on level ground, parking brake on and rear wheels chocked.
- Use jack stands rated for the load if you lift the tractor. Do not rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- When reassembling wheel/hub/brake parts, follow the shop manual for torque and bearing preload—get the manual for exact specs.

Why align the front end (the theory, in one line)
- Proper alignment keeps the tractor tracking straight, reduces tire wear, reduces steering effort and wandering, and keeps steering and suspension components from premature wear. Misalignment = wasted power, unsafe steering, faster parts failure.

Analogy
- Think of the front end as the tractor’s “shoulders and elbows.” The axle and kingpins are the shoulders, steering knuckles/spindles are the elbows, and tie rods are the collarbones that keep the shoulders working together. Worn “joints” (bushings, bearings) let things wobble and the tractor won’t walk straight.

Which parts make up the front steering/alignment system (component descriptions)
- Front axle beam (solid beam or “drop” beam): the main front member that mounts between the two front wheels. It carries the weight and supports the kingpins/spindles.
- Stub axles / steering knuckles / spindles: the parts bolted to or pinned into the beam that the wheel hub turns on (kingpin axis). They pivot to steer the wheel.
- Kingpins and kingpin bushings (or bushes): vertical or near‑vertical pins/bushings inside the knuckle/beam that act as pivot bearings. These wear and create play.
- Wheel hub, bearing(s) and races: the hub holds the wheel; tapered roller bearings or ball bearings allow rotation and must be properly adjusted.
- Grease seal / oil seal: keeps grease in bearings and dirt out.
- Brake drum (front) or hub-mounted brake assembly: often removed to access bearings/kingpin. Drag from a stuck brake will mimic alignment problems.
- Tie rod: the horizontal rod connecting the left and right steering knuckles; adjusting its length changes toe. May have an adjustable center sleeve or left/right threaded ends.
- Tie‑rod ends / ball joints: joints at the tie rod ends that allow angle change; can wear and cause play.
- Drag link (pitman arm link): connects the steering gearbox output (pitman arm) to a steering arm on the knuckle (may be a short link).
- Pitman arm: on the steering box output, moves the drag link.
- Steering gearbox: converts steering wheel rotation into left/right movement of the drag link; play here affects alignment feel and tracking.
- Wheel rim/tire: eccentric wear or mismatched size/pressure affects tracking and readings.
- Toe stops / steering stops (if fitted): limit travel and can be used to set center laterally.

How the system works (simple operation)
- You turn the wheel → steering box rotates pitman arm → drag link pushes/pulls one knuckle → that knuckle pivots, the tie rod keeps the other knuckle turning the correct amount → both wheels point to a chosen direction.
- “Toe” is the directional angle of wheels relative to the tractor centerline — a tiny toe‑in (front of wheels slightly closer together than the rear) is common for straight tracking.
- “Caster” is the fore/aft tilt of the steering pivot; it stabilizes straight‑line tracking and self-centers the wheel; on MF35 this is mostly fixed by casting and kingpin wear can change it.
- “Camber” (side tilt) is usually fixed on simple tractor front ends and is only changed by bent parts or worn kingpin seats.
- Thrust angle is the net direction the rear axle pushes the tractor; ideally the thrust is centered relative to the chassis so the tractor tracks straight.

Typical symptoms that mean alignment/steering work is needed
- Tractor consistently pulls to one side under no slope influence.
- Uneven front tire wear (inner or outer shoulder excessive).
- Excessive steering play / wandering.
- “Wobble” or shimmy at speed.
- Steering effort suddenly increased or inconsistent.

Tools and prep you’ll need
- Basic hand tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers).
- Torque wrench (for final reassembly).
- Jack and heavy duty jack stands.
- Floor stands or blocks.
- Tape measure (steel tape), straightedge or long level, chalk or marker.
- String and stakes can make a simple toe‑string alignment.
- Pry bar, hammer, penetrating oil.
- Feeler gauges or dial indicator for measuring wheel play (optional).
- Replacement bushings/kingpins, tie‑rod ends, bearings and seals as required.
- MF35 parts manual/service manual (for specs). Get it.

Basic inspection sequence (do this before measuring)
1. Inflate both front tires to equal pressure and to recommended pressure. Unequal pressures ruin readings.
2. Put the tractor on level ground. Chock rear wheels.
3. Raise front axle so wheels are just off the ground and support on stands (or keep wheels on ground; you can measure with wheels on for toe but service tasks require lifting).
4. Spin each front wheel by hand and check for bearing roughness, radial runout, and play. Grab wheel at 12 and 6 and rock to check axial play (wheel bearings/kingpin play).
5. Remove hub/drum if needed to inspect bearings, races, seals, and to access kingpin if you need to rebuild.
6. Check tie rod ends, drag link and steering box for play. Any slop in these components will make alignment useless until replaced.
7. Inspect kingpin bushings for vertical or side play and wear; collapse or ovalized bushings must be replaced.

Measuring alignment — a practical toe measurement method
Goal: set small total toe‑in so tractor tracks straight. Typical small values on small tractors are under 1/4" total — refer to MF35 manual for exact spec.

Method A — simple tape measurement (recommended for beginners)
1. Position wheels so tractor is pointing straight. One trick: put steering wheel centered by counting steering rotations from lock to lock and setting to the midpoint, or set by visually centering the steering wheel against dash marks.
2. Mark on both rims a point at the center height of hub (use chalk/marker). Measure the horizontal distance between the two front edges of those marks (front measurement). Measure the horizontal distance between the two rear edges of those marks (rear measurement). Keep tape level and at the same height for both measurements.
3. The difference between front and rear is total toe. If front distance is less than rear distance, that is toe‑in. For a small toe‑in you want the front measurement a fraction of an inch smaller than the rear — typically a few hundredths to a few tenths of an inch total (check manual).
4. To change toe, loosen tie rod locknuts and turn the tie rod (or the center sleeve) to lengthen or shorten it. Shortening the tie rod pulls toe-in; lengthening toe-out. Each small turn changes toe on both wheels.

Method B — string method (more accurate)
- Run two strings parallel to each other around the tractor’s front and rear of rims at hub height, using wooden blocks to keep string off tires and a long straight edge to square them. Measure difference between string and rim front vs rear. Same principle as above.

How to adjust toe (step‑by‑step)
1. Ensure wheel bearings and kingpins have no play; otherwise replace them first. Adjusting tie rods with worn joints is useless.
2. Loosen the two locknuts on the tie rod or the center adjusting sleeve. If the tie rod uses left‑ and right‑hand threads at the ends, rotation will lengthen or shorten automatically. If it has a center sleeve, turn sleeve to change length.
3. Make small adjustments: 1/8 turn at a time. Recheck measurements each time.
4. Once desired toe is obtained, center the steering wheel (if needed) by matching strokes on drag link/pitman arm or by adjusting steering stops (but avoid inducing thrust angle).
5. Tighten tie rod locknuts securely. Test by rolling tractor and checking steering centered.
6. Recheck measurements after tightening — tightening can shift things slightly.

When toe adjustments won’t hold / when you must rebuild
- If you find excessive kingpin wear (play in knuckle), replace bushings or the whole knuckle/kingpin assembly. Procedure outline:
- Remove wheel, drum/hub, bearings and seals.
- Remove cotter pins and spindle nuts, slide hub/drum off.
- Remove steering arm bolts and access kingpin fasteners; on MF35 older designs may press out kingpin or remove retaining bolts. You may need a press or kingpin puller and heat/penetrant.
- Press out worn bushings, clean bore and press in new bushings. Ream to required size if bushings are reamed fit type. Install new kingpin if required.
- Reinstall hub, bearings, set bearing preload and secure with nut and cotter pin per manual.
- Reassemble brakes and seals.
- Replace tie‐rod ends, drag link joints, and seals as necessary.

Steering gearbox and drag link checks
- Excessive play in the steering gearbox or worn pitman arm or drag link ends will make the steering feel loose and alignment slack. Tighten/adjust or rebuild gearbox per manual. Replace worn drag link/tie rod ends.

After alignment — tests and fine tuning
1. Lower tractor to ground and roll on level ground checking tracking at low speed.
2. Drive straight and look for pull. If pulling, re-check toe and throttle/brake drag and rear wheel alignment (thrust angle).
3. If steering wheel is not centered but tractor tracks straight, center wheel by small tie rod/drain link adjustment and check thrust angle; do not create binding.
4. Recheck after a few hours of use and re-torque wheel nuts/hub when cold.

What can go wrong and how to spot/fix it
- Worn kingpin bushings = play when you wiggle wheel top/back; leads to wandering and uneven tire wear. Fix: replace bushings/kingpins.
- Loose/tired wheel bearings = rough spin, axial play and heat build-up; fix: repack/set preload or replace bearings and races.
- Worn tie rod ends/ball joints = slack steering and toe changes under load; fix: replace.
- Bent spindle/knuckle = uneven camber or runout; if bent, replace knuckle/spindle.
- Damaged steering box = excessive play not removed by tie rod adjustments; repair or rebuild gearbox.
- Incorrect tire pressures or mismatched tires = pulls and false readings; always set correct pressures first.
- Uneven rear axle thrust (rear axle misalignment) = even if front is perfect, tractor tracks off; check rear axle and differential alignment.
- Over‑tightening bearing nuts or wrong preload = overheated bearings or seized hub. Use manual torque/preload procedures.
- Incorrect reaming or incorrectly fitted kingpin bushings = premature wear or binding; if new bushings are tight or loose, correct size and ream per manual.

Notes on caster and camber (why you usually don’t adjust them on MF35)
- On simple tractor front ends these angles are set by the cast parts and by kingpin bushing condition; there are rarely convenient adjustment shims. If caster/camber are out it’s generally from worn/loose bushings or bent components — repair is replacing bushings/knuckles or straightening/replacing parts.

Final checklist before you call it done
- Tire pressures equal and correct.
- No wheel bearing play and correct preload.
- Kingpins/bushings in good condition or replaced.
- Tie rod adjusted and locknuts tightened.
- Steering box/drags/tie rods have no excessive slop.
- Steering wheel roughly centered with straight tracking.
- Test drive confirms no pull and no shudder/wobble.

Where to find exact numbers and procedures
- The MF35 shop manual gives exact specs for bearing preload, spindle nut torque, bushing sizes and toe/caster specs. For critical torque and reaming specs, consult the manual or a reputable parts/service guide before final assembly.

Quick troubleshooting summary
- Tractor pulls one way: check tire pressure, front toe, rear thrust angle, brake drag.
- Steering loose/wandering: check tie rod ends, kingpin bushings, steering gearbox play.
- Inner tire wear: likely toe or plus excessive camber from bent parts/worn bushings.
- Shimmy/wobble: check wheel balance, bearings, uneven tires, bent rim or spindle play.

That gives you the full practical picture: what each part is and does, how to measure and set toe, what usually fails and why, how to repair or replace the worn items, and the safety/verification steps. Follow the step sequences, replace worn joints first, then adjust toe, and always confirm with a test drive.
rteeqp73

**Theory of Gearbox Planetary Gear Replacement on a Massey Ferguson MF35 Tractor**

1. **Understanding the Gearbox Function**:
The gearbox in a tractor like the Massey Ferguson MF35 is responsible for transmitting power from the engine to the wheels. The planetary gear system allows for various gear ratios, providing torque and speed adjustments essential for different operating conditions.

2. **Identifying the Fault**:
Common issues with the planetary gear system may include excessive wear, broken gears, or bearing failure. These faults can lead to noisy operation, slipping gears, or complete loss of drive.

3. **Disassembly Process**:
- **Safety First**: Ensure the tractor is turned off, and take precautions to prevent accidental movement.
- **Remove the Gearbox Cover**: This typically involves unscrewing bolts and carefully lifting off the cover to expose the internal components.
- **Drain Oil**: Before further disassembly, drain the oil to prevent spills and ensure a clean working environment.

4. **Removing the Planetary Gear Assembly**:
- Disconnect any linkages or components attached to the planetary gear assembly.
- Carefully remove the assembly from the gearbox housing. This may involve unbolting and lifting it out, ensuring you note the orientation and order of components for reassembly.

5. **Inspecting Components**:
- Examine the planetary gears, sun gear, ring gear, and bearings for signs of wear or damage. Identifying the source of the fault is critical for ensuring a successful repair.

6. **Replacement of Faulty Parts**:
- Replace any damaged or worn gears with new components. This restores the integrity of the gear system, allowing for proper meshing and operation.
- Replace bearings if they show signs of wear, as they are crucial for smooth rotation and load distribution.

7. **Reassembly Process**:
- Reinstall the planetary gear assembly, ensuring all components are aligned correctly.
- Reattach linkages and any other components that were removed, ensuring they are securely fastened.

8. **Testing**:
- After reassembly, fill the gearbox with the appropriate oil and run the tractor to ensure the planetary gear system operates smoothly without noise or slipping.
- Monitor for any unusual sounds or behaviors that may indicate improper installation or residual issues.

9. **Final Check**:
- After a test run, check for leaks and ensure all components are functioning correctly. This final inspection helps confirm that the replacement has resolved the initial fault.

**Conclusion**:
Replacing the planetary gears in the Massey Ferguson MF35 gearbox restores functionality by eliminating wear or damage that could disrupt power transmission. The repair ensures that the gears mesh properly, allowing for efficient torque and speed control, essential for the tractor's performance.
rteeqp73