- Safety first — mandatory precautions before any work
- Park tractor on level ground, engage parking brake, lower implements, remove ignition key, chock front and rear wheels with wedges or timber to prevent roll.
- Never work under the tractor supported only by a hydraulic jack — always use properly rated axle stands or timber cribbing.
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, steel-toe boots and hearing protection if using power tools.
- Keep fire extinguisher handy if using penetrating heat or cutting tools.

- What the transmission mount is and why you might replace it
- The transmission mount (gearbox mount) is the rubber-and-metal piece that secures the gearbox to the tractor frame and isolates vibration.
- Replace the mount if rubber is cracked, split or missing, if the mount is flattened/severely compressed, if metal parts are contacting, if gearbox shifts or vibrates, or if bolts are badly corroded/damaged.
- Replacing a failed mount prevents gearbox misalignment, drivetrain wear, increased vibration/noise and potential structural damage.

- Typical replacement parts you may need
- Rubber gearbox/transmission mount (OEM or aftermarket specific to Massey Ferguson MF35) — bring the old mount to a parts supplier or use MF35 parts manual to confirm part number.
- Replacement bolts, washers and nylock nuts (grade 8 or equivalent) if originals are corroded or stretched.
- Replacement mounting bracket or carrier if the metal bracket is bent or badly corroded.
- Thread locker (medium strength) for bolts if recommended by manual.

- Basic tools required (descriptions and how to use them)
- Socket set (metric and imperial sizes up to 1/2" drive and 3/4" drive): sockets and ratchet are used to remove and tighten the mounting bolts. Choose the correct size to avoid rounding bolt heads. Use a breaker bar for stubborn bolts.
- Combination spanners (open and box end): useful where sockets won’t fit; use the box end for best grip and the open end for quick positioning.
- Torque wrench (click-type): set to the manufacturer’s torque spec and tighten bolts to spec to avoid under- or over-tightening which can damage rubber mounts or threads.
- Hydraulic trolley jack or bottle jack: to support / raise the gearbox slightly when removing the mount. Place a block of wood between jack saddle and gearbox to protect surfaces.
- Rated axle stands or heavy timber cribbing: to safely support the tractor or gearbox if you need to raise it — stands must be rated above the load weight.
- Wood block (2x4) or rubber pad: to sit between jack and gearbox to prevent damage and slip.
- Pry bar or large flat screwdriver: to lever the mount bracket into position and remove a seized mount. Use carefully to avoid damage.
- Hammer and drift or punch: to tap out seized bolts or align holes when reinstalling.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar): spray on rusty bolts and let soak to ease removal.
- Wire brush and rust penetrant: clean threads and mating faces before reinstalling new mount.
- Safety goggles and gloves: protect eyes and hands.
- Work light: improves visibility under the tractor.
- Shop rags and a small container for nuts/bolts: keep hardware organized.

- Extra or specialty tools you may need and why
- Impact wrench (air or electric): useful for extremely seized bolts; reduces effort but use carefully to avoid snapping old bolts.
- Heat source (propane torch): sometimes used to heat seized bolts to expand metal and free them — only for experienced users and not near fuel or flammable lines.
- Gearbox/transmission jack or engine hoist (cherry picker): if the mount location or gearbox weight requires more controlled lifting than a bottle jack; useful when removing heavier support points.
- Bolt extractor set / left-handed drill bits: if a bolt head or stud is rounded or broken and must be removed.
- Angle grinder / cutoff wheel: last resort to cut off severely corroded bolts; use with extreme caution and protective gear.

- Preparatory steps (what to do before removing the mount)
- Inspect mount location visually and by prying to confirm which parts are bolted to frame and gearbox.
- Clean area with wire brush, remove mud and grease so tools fit and you can see fasteners.
- Spray penetrating oil on all mount bolts and let soak for at least 15–30 minutes (longer if very rusty).
- Position jack under gearbox/gearcase with wood block on jack saddle. Ensure jack can take load and is centered.

- How to remove the old mount (step sequence in clear bullets)
- Support gearbox with jack so it bears the gearbox weight; don’t lift the tractor frame — support what needs supporting.
- Loosen the mounting bolts while gearbox is supported. If nuts access is on the other side, hold with spanner while turning bolt head with socket.
- Remove lower and upper bolts (if the mount is two-bolt) and keep hardware in a container.
- If bolt is stuck, use penetrating oil, then tap with hammer and try again; if still stuck, use breaker bar or impact tool. If the stud breaks, extract with puller/extractor or cut off and re-thread or replace bracket.
- Pry the mount out with a pry bar if it’s tight. Protect painted surfaces with wood spacer.
- Examine mounting faces for damage, corrosion, or distortion. Clean surfaces before fitting new part.

- Fitting the new mount (step sequence)
- Compare new mount with old to confirm match (size, hole spacing, orientation).
- Clean bolt holes and mating faces, wire-brush threads, and apply a light oil or anti-seize to bolt threads if recommended.
- Position new mount in place, supporting the gearbox with the jack so holes align.
- Hand-thread bolts to ensure correct thread engagement; do not cross-thread.
- Tighten bolts progressively and alternately so mount seats evenly.
- Use torque wrench and tighten bolts to the tractor manual’s specified torque. If you do not have the manual, tighten snugly but avoid over-torquing rubber mounts — typical medium-sized mount bolts often use 40–80 Nm range but confirm with manual or parts supplier.
- Re-check all bolts after short test run and after first day of operation.

- Post-install checks
- Lower jack slowly and ensure gearbox is resting evenly on the new mount.
- Start engine and listen for unusual vibrations or clunks; check for movement while a helper briefly engages the clutch (if safe).
- Re-torque bolts after 50 hours of operation or per manual recommendation.

- Common problems and solutions you may encounter
- Seized or rounded bolts: use penetrating oil, heat, extractor, or cut/replace bolt; always replace damaged fasteners.
- Mount bracket bent or corroded: replace bracket assembly rather than just the rubber if metal is weak.
- Gearbox alignment issues after replacement: check that mount orientation matches original and that all mounting surfaces are flat and clean.
- Oil-soaked rubber mounts: if rubber is saturated with gearbox fluid or hydraulic oil, replace mount and fix the leak source — oil degrades rubber.

- Notes on parts and sourcing
- Use OEM MF35 gearbox mount or a high-quality aftermarket equivalent sized to MF35 specifications; bringing the old mount or a photo to a dealer helps ensure correct match.
- If uncertain of part number, consult Massey Ferguson MF35 parts manual, dealership, or specialist vintage tractor parts supplier.
- Always replace severely corroded bolts and washers rather than reusing them.

- Final safety reminder
- Never rely solely on hydraulic jacks for prolonged support. Verify all fasteners and supports before operating the tractor. If at any point a job feels beyond your tools or confidence, seek a professional tractor mechanic.
rteeqp73

- **Basic Understanding of Fuel Injectors**:
- Fuel injectors in the Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor deliver fuel into the engine's combustion chamber. Proper function is essential for efficient engine operation.

- **Tools Required**:
- **Wrenches (10mm and 13mm)**:
- Used to remove bolts and nuts securing the fuel injector and lines.
- Ensure you have both metric sizes as these are typically used in tractors.

- **Screwdriver Set (Flat and Phillips)**:
- To remove any covers or components that may obstruct access to the injectors.

- **Fuel Injector Puller Tool** (if available):
- Helps to safely remove the injectors without damaging them or the surrounding components.

- **Clean Rags**:
- For cleaning any spills and wiping down components to prevent dirt from entering the engine.

- **Container for Fuel**:
- To catch any fuel that may spill when disconnecting fuel lines.

- **Torque Wrench**:
- Ensures that injectors are tightened to the manufacturer's specifications when re-installing.

- **Replacement Parts (if needed)**:
- **Fuel Injector O-rings**:
- These are seals that may become hardened or cracked over time, causing leaks. Replacement is recommended if you see any wear.

- **Fuel Injector Nozzles**:
- If injectors are clogged or damaged, replacement nozzles may be required. Inspect for any visible damage or blockage.

- **Step-by-Step Instructions**:
- **Preparation**:
- Park the tractor on a flat surface and turn off the engine. Disconnect the battery to avoid any electrical issues.

- **Accessing Injectors**:
- Remove any covers or components blocking access using the screwdriver. Use rags to clean the area around the injectors to prevent contamination.

- **Disconnecting Fuel Lines**:
- Use the correct wrench size to carefully loosen and remove the fuel lines connected to the injectors. Have a container ready to catch any fuel that spills.

- **Removing Injectors**:
- If using a puller tool, place it around the injector and gently pull it out. If not, use the wrench to unscrew the injector directly by turning counterclockwise. Take care not to damage the injector seat.

- **Inspecting Injectors**:
- Check for any signs of wear or clogging. If the injector is dirty or damaged, consider replacing it.

- **Installing New or Cleaned Injectors**:
- If replacing injectors or nozzles, lubricate the O-rings with clean diesel fuel before installation. Insert the injector into the injector seat and tighten it securely with the torque wrench to the specified torque.

- **Reconnecting Fuel Lines**:
- Reattach the fuel lines, ensuring they are tight and secure to prevent leaks.

- **Final Checks**:
- Recheck all connections and ensure there are no tools left in the engine bay. Reconnect the battery.

- **Start the Engine**:
- Turn on the tractor and listen for any unusual noises. Check for leaks around the injectors and fuel lines.

- **Additional Tips**:
- Always consult the MF35 service manual for specific torque settings and injector specifications.
- If you're uncertain about any step, consider seeking help from a more experienced mechanic or technician.
rteeqp73

### Input Shaft Bearing Replacement on a Massey Ferguson MF35 Tractor

#### Introduction
The input shaft bearing on a tractor is crucial for the smooth operation of the transmission. It supports the input shaft, which transfers power from the engine to the transmission. Over time, these bearings can wear out, leading to noise, vibration, or even transmission failure.

### Theory Behind the Repair
- **Function**: The input shaft bearing allows the input shaft to rotate smoothly within the transmission housing. It reduces friction and supports the shaft's axial and radial loads.
- **Failure Symptoms**: Signs of a failing bearing include grinding noises, difficulty shifting gears, or excessive movement of the input shaft. If ignored, it can lead to further damage to the transmission.

### Tools and Materials Needed
1. **Tools**:
- Socket set (including extensions)
- Wrenches
- Screwdrivers
- Pliers
- Hammer
- Bearing puller (if necessary)
- Torque wrench
- Pry bar
- Clean rags
- Safety glasses
- Work gloves

2. **Materials**:
- New input shaft bearing
- Gear oil (appropriate for the MF35)
- Gasket or sealant (if applicable)

### Step-by-Step Replacement Process

#### 1. Safety First
- **Park on Level Ground**: Ensure the tractor is on a stable surface.
- **Disconnect Battery**: Remove the negative terminal to prevent accidental starts.
- **Wear Safety Gear**: Use gloves and safety glasses.

#### 2. Remove the Transmission Cover
- **Locate the Cover**: The transmission cover is typically on top of the transmission housing.
- **Remove Bolts**: Use a socket or wrench to remove the bolts securing the cover. Keep track of where each bolt goes.
- **Lift Off the Cover**: Gently pry the cover off, being careful not to damage any gaskets.

#### 3. Access the Input Shaft
- **Identify the Input Shaft**: The input shaft is connected to the engine and extends into the transmission.
- **Remove Any Obstructions**: Unbolt or disconnect any components that block access to the input shaft, such as the clutch or other linkages.

#### 4. Remove the Old Bearing
- **Visual Inspection**: Check for any signs of wear or damage on the old bearing.
- **Use Bearing Puller**: If the bearing is stuck, use a bearing puller to carefully extract it from its housing.
- **Clean the Area**: Wipe down the bearing housing to remove debris or old grease.

#### 5. Install the New Bearing
- **Lubricate the New Bearing**: Apply a thin layer of gear oil to the new bearing to ensure smooth operation.
- **Press the Bearing In**: Carefully press or tap the new bearing into place using a socket that fits around the outer race of the bearing. Avoid tapping on the inner race.

#### 6. Reassemble the Components
- **Reinstall the Input Shaft**: Place the input shaft back into position and ensure it fits snugly into the new bearing.
- **Reconnect Any Removed Components**: Reattach any parts you previously disconnected or removed, ensuring everything is tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.

#### 7. Replace the Transmission Cover
- **Inspect Gasket**: Check the gasket for wear. Replace if necessary.
- **Secure the Cover**: Place the transmission cover back on, aligning it with any dowels or guides. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to ensure an even seal.

#### 8. Fill with Gear Oil
- **Check Gear Oil Level**: Use the fill plug to add the appropriate gear oil to the transmission. Refer to the MF35 manual for the correct type and quantity.

#### 9. Test the Repair
- **Reattach Battery**: Connect the negative terminal.
- **Start the Tractor**: Run the engine and listen for unusual noises. Test the gears to ensure smooth operation.

### Potential Problems
- **Incorrect Installation**: Misalignment of the bearing may cause premature failure.
- **Failure to Lubricate**: Insufficient lubrication can lead to overheating and further damage.
- **Over-tightening**: Using excessive force when tightening bolts can damage the transmission housing.

### Conclusion
Replacing the input shaft bearing on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor requires careful attention to detail and proper tools. Understanding the system’s function and symptoms of failure can help you prevent larger issues down the line. With practice and patience, this task can become a valuable addition to your mechanical skills.
rteeqp73