1) Safety & prep
- Action: Park on level ground, chock wheels, remove key, disconnect battery negative, let engine cool, gather tools and service manual.
- Theory: Prevents accidental starting, electrical short, and burns. Manual gives engine-specific marks, belt type, and torque specs you must follow.

2) Identify engine layout & marks
- Action: Remove engine covers/accessories to expose crank pulley, camshaft (and injection pump if belt-driven) pulleys and timing cover. Clean surfaces to read factory timing marks.
- Theory: Timing depends on fixed geometric relationships between crank, cam, and (if fitted) injection pump. You must know and see the reference marks to restore original phasing.

3) Bring engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) on compression stroke
- Action: Rotate the crank pulley by hand (socket on crank bolt) until the crank TDC mark aligns with the case pointer and the camshaft rotor or cam mark aligns with its mark. Verify it’s the compression stroke by checking that inlet/exhaust valves are closed (feel tappet/lash or look at rocker position).
- Theory: TDC on the compression stroke places pistons in the reference position used by the factory to set valve timing. All timing marks are referenced to this single, repeatable position.

4) Mark the old belt and components (if not already)
- Action: With the engine at TDC, mark the belt relative to each pulley (chalk/paint/marker); note belt tooth count between pulleys and rotation direction.
- Theory: If the new belt must be fitted in the same rotational direction and with correct relative indexing, these marks prevent phasing errors and ensure proper tooth engagement.

5) Release belt tension & remove old belt
- Action: Loosen/relieve the tensioner and any idler pulleys, remove ancillary drive belts if they block access, then remove the timing belt. Inspect tensioner, idlers, pulleys, seals, and water pump for wear or leaks.
- Theory: Tensioners and idlers wear and change tension characteristics. Replacing the belt alone leaves worn components that will quickly cause improper tension, skipping, or failure.

6) Inspect components and replace as required
- Action: Replace the timing belt with the correct part; replace tensioner and idler bearings, and any seals or the water pump if driven by the belt or showing wear.
- Theory: New belt + fresh tensioner/idlers restore the designed stiffness, preload and tooth engagement geometry. Worn bearings let pulleys tilt or seize, allowing the belt to ride off teeth or slip — the root cause of timing loss.

7) Fit the new belt, align marks, set routing
- Action: Fit the new belt with the engine still at TDC, keeping the belt snug on the non-tensioned (slack) side first, and ensure previously noted alignment marks line up precisely on crank, cam, and pump (if present). Install belt over tensioner last.
- Theory: Fitting the belt on the slack side prevents forcing teeth over engaged pulleys and preserves the engine’s phasing. Exact alignment of marks restores the factory phase relationship so valves open/close at the designed piston positions.

8) Set belt tension correctly
- Action: Adjust the tensioner to the specified tension or deflection (use manual spec or a belt tension gauge; if using deflection method, apply specified force at midpoint and measure deflection). Lock the tensioner to spec.
- Theory: Correct tension prevents tooth jump (too loose) and reduces bearing loads and premature wear (too tight). Proper tension maintains the instantaneous angular relationship between crank and cam under dynamic loads.

9) Rotate engine through two full revolutions and recheck marks/tension
- Action: Rotate the crank two complete turns by hand, return to TDC, and reconfirm timing marks still align. Recheck belt tension and photos/marks.
- Theory: Rotating under hand load confirms no interference, proper phasing, and that no teeth have skipped. Two revolutions ensures cam and valves return to expected positions relative to pistons.

10) Reassemble and run test
- Action: Refit timing cover and removed accessories, reconnect battery, start engine and let idle. Listen for abnormal noise, check for leaks, and verify smooth running and correct idle/response. Road or load-test as appropriate.
- Theory: A correct timing repair restores valve timing and (if applicable) injection timing, which corrects compression, combustion phasing, and overall engine breathing — eliminating misfires, loss of power, backfiring, rough idle, and valve-piston interference that were caused by timing error.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Fault: slipped/worn/failed belt or worn tensioner/idler causes cam/crank phase shift or loss of synchrony.
- Effect of repair: Replacing the belt and worn components and restoring correct tension/mark alignment re-establishes the precise crank-to-cam (and pump) angular relationships. That ensures valves open/close when pistons are where the designer intended, restores compression and combustion timing, removes valve-piston interference risk, and returns smooth power delivery and proper idle.

Safety notes (brief)
- Never run engine with timing cover off.
- If engine is an interference design, do not rotate cam independently of crank when belt is off without ensuring pistons are clear.
- Use factory torque and spec values from the MF35/perkins manual.

End.
rteeqp73

### Shock Absorber Replacement on Massey Ferguson MF35 Tractor

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (including 1/2" and 9/16" sockets)
2. **Wrench Set**
3. **Torque Wrench**
4. **Jack and Jack Stands**
5. **Pry Bar**
6. **Screwdriver** (Flathead and Phillips)
7. **Hammer**
8. **Safety Glasses**
9. **Gloves**
10. **Replacement Shock Absorbers**

#### Safety Precautions:
- **Wear Safety Glasses and Gloves**: Protect your eyes and hands from debris and sharp edges.
- **Work on Level Ground**: Ensure the tractor is parked on a flat surface.
- **Use Proper Jack Stands**: Never rely solely on a hydraulic jack; use jack stands to support the vehicle.
- **Disconnect Battery**: Prevent accidental electrical shorts or starting.

#### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation:**
- Ensure the tractor is off and parked on a level surface.
- Disconnect the battery to avoid any electrical issues.

2. **Lift the Tractor:**
- Use a hydraulic jack to lift the rear of the tractor.
- Secure it with jack stands to ensure stability.

3. **Access the Shock Absorbers:**
- Locate the rear shock absorbers, which are usually mounted to the chassis and axle.

4. **Remove the Old Shock Absorbers:**
- **Top Mount**: Use the appropriate socket to remove the nut securing the top of the shock absorber. If necessary, use a pry bar to hold the shock in place.
- **Bottom Mount**: Repeat the process for the bottom mount. Ensure all nuts and bolts are kept for reuse unless new ones are included with replacements.

5. **Inspect Components:**
- Check the mounting points for any signs of wear or damage. Replace any worn mounting hardware if needed.

6. **Install New Shock Absorbers:**
- **Bottom Mount**: Position the new shock absorber and secure it with the bolt and nut. Tighten to the manufacturer’s specifications using a torque wrench.
- **Top Mount**: Repeat the process for the top mount.

7. **Check Alignment:**
- Ensure the new shock absorber is aligned correctly and not under tension or misaligned.

8. **Lower the Tractor:**
- Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the tractor back to the ground.

9. **Reconnect Battery:**
- Reconnect the battery terminals.

10. **Test Drive:**
- Take the tractor for a short test drive to ensure the shock absorbers are functioning correctly.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Neglecting to Use Jack Stands**: Always secure the tractor with jack stands when working underneath.
- **Overtightening Bolts**: Overtightening can strip threads or damage components; use a torque wrench for accuracy.
- **Ignoring Worn Mounting Hardware**: Always inspect and replace any worn bolts or nuts to ensure a secure mount.
- **Not Aligning the Shock Properly**: Misalignment can lead to premature wear or failure of the new shock absorber.

### Replacement Parts:
- Ensure to acquire OEM or compatible replacement shock absorbers specifically designed for the Massey Ferguson MF35. Check with local dealerships or trusted parts suppliers.

By following these steps carefully and adhering to safety precautions, you can successfully replace the shock absorbers on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor.
rteeqp73

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket/ratchet set (including deep sockets), combination wrenches, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 200 Nm or 150 ft·lb).
- Feeler gauges, straightedge (1 m/long if possible), dial indicator (optional) or feeler gauge for warpage if available.
- Gasket scraper (plastic/wood first, then brass), wire brush, Scotch-Brite pads, solvent (degreaser).
- Engine hoist or lifting sling (head is heavy).
- Penetrating oil, thread chaser or tap, anti-seize compound, thread locker (if specified).
- Pry bar, rubber mallet, pliers, screwdrivers, hose clamp pliers.
- Torque-angle gauge (if specified by manual), calipers (optional).
- Drain pan, funnel, rags, gloves, eye protection.
- New head gasket (correct MF35 gasket set), valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets, thermostat gasket, coolant, engine oil & filter, possibly new head bolts/studs and rocker shaft seals, coolant hoses if rotten.
- Cooling system pressure tester (recommended), shop manual or factory torque/clearance specs.

Safety
- Work on level ground, park tractor with parking brake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect battery negative cable before starting.
- Drain coolant and oil into suitable containers and dispose legally.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; avoid skin contact with coolant/oil.
- Support heavy components (head, manifolds) with hoist or secure stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Do not smoke around fuel lines or stored fuel; relieve fuel pressure and isolate battery.
- Keep open cylinders covered when head removed to prevent debris entry.

High-level sequence (detailed steps follow)
1) Drain fluids, remove ancillaries and accessories that attach to the head.
2) Remove rocker cover, rockers/pushrods, manifolds, timing covers/auxiliaries as necessary.
3) Loosen head bolts/studs gradually in reverse of torque sequence, remove head.
4) Inspect and test head/block for warpage/cracks, clean mating surfaces.
5) Fit new head gasket, reinstall head and torque to factory sequence/spec.
6) Reassemble valvetrain, set valve lash to spec, reattach manifolds/ancillaries.
7) Refill fluids, bleed cooling & fuel systems, start and check for leaks; re-torque if required after heat cycles.

Step-by-step procedure
1 — Preparation
- Have the workshop manual for your MF35 accessible for torque figures, bolt patterns, and valve clearance specs.
- Drain coolant and engine oil into catch pans. Label and cap fuel lines or remove injection pump/carburettor vacuum lines as required.
- Remove battery negative lead.

2 — Remove external components
- Remove air cleaner, radiator top hose, thermostat housing, bypass hoses. Unbolt and remove exhaust manifold and intake manifold. Mark wiring and hoses.
- For diesel/injection pump: mark timing relationship of pump to engine (timing marks) before disconnecting. Do not disturb pump timing gear unnecessarily; if you must remove, mark every item and be prepared to time pump on reassembly.
- Remove rocker cover(s). Note and mark the position of each pushrod and rocker for reassembly (number them or keep in order).
- Remove rockers/rocker shaft(s). If shaft is retained by pins/bolts, carefully remove and support rockers to avoid dropping into the engine.
- Remove pushrods and lay them in order in a clean tray or mark them so each returns to its original cylinder (pushrods wear and seat marks matter).
- Remove any remaining accessories bolted to the head (thermostat housing, coolant passages, engine lifting bracket bolted to head).

3 — Loosen head bolts and remove head
- Identify head bolt/stud pattern. Clean bolts/studs and apply penetrating oil if seized.
- Loosen bolts/studs in the reverse order of the tightening sequence, in several passes (e.g., loosen each bolt 1/2 turn per pass) to avoid warping the head.
- Remove bolts/studs. Keep them in order if reusing, but the best practice is to replace them with new bolts/studs if they are torque-to-yield or show stretch/corrosion.
- Lift the head: use an engine hoist or a second person. Lift straight up to avoid scraping the gasket surface. Keep all ports covered to prevent debris entry.

4 — Inspect head and block
- With head off, immediately cover the cylinders with clean cloths or plastic to prevent debris falling in.
- Inspect head for cracks (around valve seats, combustion chambers) visually and, if possible, have it pressure-tested at a machine shop. Cracked heads must be repaired or replaced.
- Clean the block deck and head mating surface. Remove old gasket material with plastic/pallet scrapers first, then brass brush or Scotch-Brite. Avoid gouging or scratching the surface.
- Check head and block flatness with a long straightedge and feeler gauge at multiple orientations (across combustion chamber, across bolt holes). Check against manual flatness tolerance; if out of spec, the head must be skimmed/machined.
- Inspect cylinder bores and head for signs of coolant in oil, oil in coolant, burned area around a particular cylinder (indicates local problem).

5 — Prepare threads and parts
- Clean bolt threads in the block with a thread chaser or solvent—dirt/corrosion in threads gives false torque. If threads are damaged, repair with helicoil or re-tap.
- If reinstalling old bolts check for stretch; replace if any sign of elongation or damage. Apply a light coat of oil/anti-seize to bolt shank/threads only if specified by manual (many manuals require dry threads or specific lubricant—follow manual).
- Fit new head gasket: orient per marking (”UP”, holes aligned). Ensure dowel pins are present and located so the gasket and head will seat properly.

6 — Reinstall head & torque
- Lower head straight down onto block using hoist; ensure it sits correctly on dowels and over gasket.
- Install head bolts/studs by hand. Follow the tightening sequence and staged torque increments given in the workshop manual. Typical practice: tighten in at least 3 stages (e.g., snug → intermediate → final torque). Some engines require a final angle turn—use an angle gauge if specified.
- Use the torque wrench correctly: set to required torque, tighten in sequence, always use steady controlled motion, re-check wrench calibration if in doubt.
- Common mistake: stopping at one setting without staged tightening. Do staged increments and follow the sequence exactly.

7 — Reassemble valvetrain
- Reinstall pushrods and rockers in the exact order they were removed (pushrods into same holes and orientation).
- Reinstall rocker shafts or rockers and torque retaining bolts per spec.
- Set valve clearance (lash) cold per spec—this is critical. Use feeler gauges and tighten adjusters while moving the valve through its cycle to get correct clearance. Note the specs in manual; if you do not have them, mark this as a step to complete after obtaining proper values.
- Reinstall valve cover with new gasket.

8 — Reconnect manifolds, timing & ancillaries
- Reattach exhaust and intake manifolds with new gaskets, tighten evenly.
- Reinstall thermostat housing and hoses with new gasket/seal.
- Reinstall any timing covers. If timing gear or fuel pump was disturbed, re-time per manual marks and procedures.
- Reconnect radiator hoses, heater hoses, fuel lines, electrical connectors, air cleaner, etc.

9 — Fluids, bleeding & checks
- Refill engine oil and replace oil filter. If coolant contaminated, flush and replace coolant.
- Prime the fuel system for diesel (bleed any injection pump / lines of air) before cranking. For petrol, ensure carburetor is set and throttle linkage connected.
- Reconnect battery.
- Pre-start checks: rotate engine by hand a few turns to ensure no interference and oil pressure builds (crank with starter short bursts to build oil pressure — don't crank long).
- Start engine and watch for leaks (coolant, oil, fuel). Monitor for white smoke (coolant burning) or overheating.
- Bleed the cooling system to remove air pockets via bleeder screws or running with radiator cap off and heater on until thermostat opens.
- After warm-up and cool-down, re-check torque on head bolts if manual requires an after-run re-torque (many older engines recommend re-torque after heat cycles; follow manual).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing stretched head bolts or damaged studs: replace head bolts/studs if torque-yield; if in doubt replace.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: residual gasket material causes leaks—use careful scraping and solvent.
- Warped or cracked head: if not checked, replacement gasket will not seal. Straightedge check and shop pressure/test are essential.
- Wrong gasket orientation or wrong gasket: verify correct gasket part number.
- Improper torque sequence or single-pass torquing: always do staged tightening in the correct sequence.
- Mixing up pushrods/rockers: label and keep in order; reusing in wrong position causes valve/seat mismatch and noise.
- Not re-timing injection pump/valve timing after reassembly: incorrect timing can cause poor running or damage.
- Not bleeding air from cooling/fuel systems: causes overheating or hard starting.
- Using excessive gasket sealant: can squeeze into coolant or oil galleries—only use sealants if manual specifies and only where specified.

When to replace parts
- Replace head gasket (mandatory).
- Replace head bolts/studs if stretchable type or corroded (recommended).
- Replace valve cover gasket, manifold gaskets, thermostat gasket, any hose that is brittle.
- Replace oil and coolant and oil filter.
- Consider replacing rocker shaft seals, valve stem seals (if leaking), and pump seals as needed.
- If head is warped/cracked, have it machined or replaced.

How specific tools are used
- Torque wrench: used for final tightening in correct sequence and torque stages; set and apply smooth even pressure until wrench clicks/indicates.
- Straightedge + feeler gauge: place straightedge on head/block in multiple orientations and measure any gap with feeler gauge to check warpage.
- Thread chaser/tap: cleans bolt hole threads so torque readings are accurate; use gently.
- Engine hoist: supports and lifts head straight off and on; sling to lifting point(s) on head, lift vertically to avoid fouling.
- Gasket scraper & solvent: remove old gasket without gouging mating surface—use plastic first then brass for stubborn material.
- Cooling system pressure tester: pressurize system to check for leaks before running.

Final checks & break-in
- After first run, check torque after cool-down only if manual instructs.
- Re-check valve clearances after first hot/cold cycles if recommended.
- Monitor oil and coolant levels for next several days and check for external/internal leaks.

Note: torque values, bolt sequence, and valve clearances are model/year specific—use the MF35 workshop manual for exact numbers. Follow those specs precisely for reliable results.
rteeqp73