Isuzu D-Max 2011 factory workshop and repair manual download pdf

The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002. It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand, although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.

Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March 5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.

The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor redesign in late 2007.

Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank. Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.

In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing models any more than 2 concepts before.

In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax" engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New 2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian Twin.

Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors, which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of 2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter powerplant with 177-horses.

Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual

Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, and combination wrenches
- Torque wrench (consult service manual for torque specs)
- Flat screwdriver / pry tool
- Drain pan (large, 10–15 L)
- Funnel and long-neck pump or fluid transfer pump
- Jack, jack stands or vehicle lift (use lift if available)
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves, shop rags
- Paper towels, parts cleaner
- New transmission fluid (correct Isuzu spec — check placard/service manual; commonly Dexron VI/Isuzu ATF spec depending on year/model)
- New transmission filter and pan gasket (or O-ring if applicable)
- Crush washer for drain plug (if fitted) or new drain plug if required
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Sealant (if required by gasket type — use RTV sparingly only if manual calls for it)
- Optional: professional transmission flush machine or pressure-flush kit (hoses, adapters), or a hand-operated fluid exchange pump
- Container for used fluid and access to proper disposal

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on a level surface, engage park (or gear for manual) and chock wheels.
- Use jack stands or a vehicle lift; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves — transmission fluid is hot and can burn.
- Let the driveline and fluid cool if the vehicle was driven just prior; warm fluid drains easier but avoid scalding.
- Keep clear of moving parts if running the engine during process. Never put your hands under the vehicle while engine is running.
- Dispose of used fluid per local regulations.

Which method to use
- Partial (pan-drop) change: removes pan fluid + torque converter not fully drained; replaces filter and pan gasket. Simpler, safe for DIY.
- Full flush (pressure/recirculation machine): replaces nearly all fluid including cooler and torque converter. More effective but requires correct adapter/hose connections, and has risk of dislodging debris. Recommended if you have the right machine or let a shop do it.

Step-by-step — Pan-drop fluid change (recommended DIY)
1. Warm the vehicle: drive ~10–15 minutes to bring transmission to operating temp. Park and set parking brake.
2. Raise and secure vehicle: use lift or jack and jack stands. Chock front wheels if working on rear.
3. Place drain pan under transmission pan.
4. Loosen transmission pan bolts a few turns in a crisscross pattern to allow slow seep; then carefully back out the bolts on the low side so fluid drains gradually. If there is a separate drain plug, remove that first.
5. When most fluid has drained, remove remaining bolts and lower pan. Expect residual fluid and keep pan level.
6. Remove pan and clean it thoroughly. Remove and inspect magnets for metal filings (use magnetic pickup). Note large metal flakes — indicates internal wear.
7. Remove old transmission filter: it usually pulls out or is held by a couple bolts. Inspect for debris.
8. Install new filter (and O-ring/seal per design). Lubricate gasket or O-ring with fresh ATF.
9. Clean mating surfaces on transmission case. Install new pan gasket or clean and reseal per manual. Refit pan and hand-start bolts.
10. Torque pan bolts in a crisscross pattern to factory spec.
11. If you removed a drain plug, replace crush washer and torque plug to spec.
12. Refill transmission with specified fluid through the dipstick tube or fill port. Add roughly 60–70% of the total capacity if torque converter wasn’t drained — consult manual for capacities. Start with manufacturer’s recommended initial quantity (e.g., 4–6 L) then later top up.
13. Start engine and let idle. Cycle through all gear positions slowly, pausing a few seconds in each gear, then back to Park. With engine idling, check fluid level on dipstick at the recommended temperature range (refer to manual for method — some require engine idling and selector in Park; some in Neutral).
14. Add fluid as needed until level is correct at operating temp. Recheck for leaks.
15. Test drive, then recheck level after warm-up and re-torque bolts if needed.

Step-by-step — Full flush with external machine (recirculation / pressure-flush)
Note: Only do this if you have the correct adapter kit for the D-Max cooler lines or use a professional machine. Incorrect connection can introduce air or damage the cooler.
1. Warm vehicle, secure on lift/jack stands, chock wheels.
2. Locate transmission cooler lines at the radiator or chassis cooler. Identify the cooler return (low-pressure return) line from the transmission to the radiator.
3. Disconnect the return line (not the feed line) and cap open fittings on the vehicle to avoid spills. Connect the flush machine’s return hose to the transmission cooler inlet and the flush machine’s supply hose to the radiator cooler port or return port depending on machine instructions. The machine will pump new fluid into the transmission and route old fluid out to its waste container.
4. Ensure all connections are tight and that the machine is primed. Place waste container under any open hoses not connected.
5. With machine off, fill machine reservoir with new ATF.
6. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Start the flush machine to begin circulating new fluid through the transmission/cooler circuit. Cycle selector through all gears slowly as instructed. Monitor fluid color leaving the machine — continue until fluid outflows clear and new, or until the correct number of liters have been exchanged.
7. After exchange, stop machine, disconnect hoses, and reattach vehicle cooler lines properly and securely.
8. Replace transmission filter and pan gasket (if required in procedure) — many shops install a new filter after flushing.
9. Refill to correct level and check per dipstick procedure at operating temp. Check for leaks.
10. Test drive and recheck level.

How the tools are used
- Drain pan: collects old fluid and prevents spills.
- Torque wrench: ensures pan bolts and drain plug are tightened to spec to avoid leaks or stripped threads.
- Fluid transfer pump / funnel: used to precisely add fluid through dipstick tube or fill port.
- Flush machine / pressure-flush kit: pumps new fluid into the transmission while simultaneously extracting old fluid. Adapters attach to cooler lines; machine regulates flow and prevents aeration. Follow machine manual: it circulates fluid while engine runs and transmission cycles so torque converter and cooler are purged.
- Magnetic pickup: cleans magnets and retrieves metal fragments.
- Jack stands/lift: provide safe elevated access.

Replacement parts typically required
- Transmission filter (always replace when pan is removed)
- Pan gasket or seal
- Crush washer or new drain plug (if manufacturer recommends)
- Transmission fluid (quantity depends on model and method; full capacity differs from partial change)
- Optional: internal O-rings or screen seals if worn (inspect and replace per manual)

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Wrong fluid spec: always use manufacturer-recommended ATF. Wrong fluid risks slipping or damage.
- Underfill/overfill: fill to the correct level at operating temp. Overfill causes foaming and overheating; underfill causes slipping.
- Not warming fluid: checking level with cold fluid gives incorrect reading. Warm to operating temp as manual prescribes.
- Dropping pan too quickly: causes large spill and possible injury. Loosen bolts gradually and support pan.
- Not replacing filter or gasket: leaves contaminants and leaks. Replace both to ensure clean fluid and sealing.
- For flushes: disconnecting the wrong cooler line or introducing air can damage valve bodies or cause foaming. If unsure, have a shop do the pressure flush.
- Dislodging debris: a full pressure flush can free debris that may clog valves. If heavy metal is found on magnets or filter, consider a staged approach or professional inspection.
- Reuse of old crush washers: always replace crush washers when recommended to avoid leaks.
- Improper torque: overtightening strip threads, undertightening leaks. Use torque wrench and manual values.

Final checks
- Inspect for leaks after initial run and after a test drive.
- Recheck fluid level at temperature, after a short drive (follow manual’s procedure).
- Record fluid type, amount, and date/mileage for maintenance log.
- Dispose of used fluid and contaminated rags properly.

If you need exact fluid spec, filter part number, pan bolt torque, or capacities for your specific D-Max year/engine/transmission, consult the Isuzu service manual or a dealer parts department.
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- **Safety Gear**
- **Gloves**: Protects your hands from dirt and sharp edges.
- **Safety Glasses**: Shields your eyes from debris.

- **Tools Needed**
- **Jack**: Used to lift the vehicle off the ground. Ensure it’s rated for the weight of the Isuzu D-Max.
- **Jack Stands**: To support the vehicle securely once lifted; never work under a vehicle only supported by a jack.
- **Lug Wrench**: For removing wheel nuts. Make sure it fits the size of the nuts on your D-Max.
- **Socket Set**: Essential for removing bolts and nuts from the wheel hub. You'll need a ratchet and various socket sizes (typically 10mm to 21mm).
- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications, preventing over-tightening or under-tightening.
- **Hammer**: For gently persuading parts to come loose if they’re stuck.
- **Pry Bar**: Helpful for removing stubborn components, like the wheel bearing assembly.
- **Bearing Puller**: If you're replacing the wheel bearing, this tool is necessary to remove the bearing from the hub assembly. It grips the bearing and pulls it out without damaging the hub.
- **Grease**: For lubricating the new wheel bearing to ensure smooth operation.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Wheel Bearing Kit**: You will likely need a new wheel bearing as the old one may be worn or damaged. This usually includes the bearing, seals, and sometimes new bolts.
- **Wheel Hub Assembly**: If the hub is damaged or rusted, you might need to replace the entire hub assembly.
- **Brake Pads/Shoes**: Check the condition of brake pads while you're there; replace if worn.

- **Step-by-Step Process**
- **Preparation**: Park the vehicle on a flat surface, engage the parking brake, and loosen the lug nuts slightly while the wheel is still on the ground.
- **Lifting the Vehicle**:
- Use the jack to lift the vehicle.
- Place jack stands under the vehicle at the manufacturer-recommended points for safety.
- **Removing the Wheel**:
- Remove the lug nuts completely and take off the wheel.
- **Accessing the Wheel Bearing**:
- Remove the brake caliper and bracket using the socket set; hang it securely with a wire to avoid stress on the brake line.
- Remove the rotor if necessary, depending on your D-Max's configuration.
- **Removing the Hub Assembly**:
- Use the pry bar or hammer if needed to remove the hub assembly from the knuckle.
- Use the bearing puller to extract the old wheel bearing from the hub if it’s being replaced.
- **Installing New Parts**:
- Clean the hub and knuckle area.
- Insert the new wheel bearing using the bearing puller, ensuring it’s seated correctly.
- Reinstall the hub assembly, ensuring all surfaces are clean and free of debris.
- **Reassembly**:
- Reattach the rotor and brake caliper.
- Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- **Lowering the Vehicle**:
- Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle back to the ground.
- Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
- **Final Checks**:
- Use the torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Check the brakes and wheel rotation to ensure everything is functioning correctly.

- **Post-Installation Advice**
- Test drive the vehicle at low speeds and listen for any unusual noises.
- Regularly check the new bearing for signs of wear or noise over the next few weeks.
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Replacing the clutch plate in an Isuzu D-Max involves several steps, each addressing specific components of the clutch system. Here’s a focused explanation of the theory behind the repair and how it resolves common faults.

### 1. **Understanding the Clutch System**
- The clutch plate is a key component of the vehicle's manual transmission system. It engages and disengages the engine power from the transmission, allowing for smooth gear changes.
- Over time, the clutch plate wears due to friction from constant engagement and disengagement, leading to symptoms like slipping, difficulty in shifting gears, or unusual noises.

### 2. **Diagnosis of Fault**
- Symptoms such as slipping (engine revs without acceleration), difficulty in shifting, or a burning smell indicate that the clutch plate may be worn out.
- Checking for these symptoms confirms the need for replacement.

### 3. **Disassembly**
- **Remove Transmission:** Disconnect the battery, then remove the drive shafts, starter motor, and any necessary components to access the transmission.
- **Separation:** Unbolt the transmission from the engine, allowing access to the clutch assembly.

### 4. **Clutch Assembly Removal**
- **Remove Pressure Plate:** Unscrew and detach the pressure plate which holds the clutch plate against the flywheel. This step is critical as it releases the tension on the clutch plate.
- **Remove Clutch Plate:** Take out the worn clutch plate. Its condition (cracks, excessive wear) will confirm the need for replacement.

### 5. **Inspection of Flywheel**
- Check the flywheel for grooves, cracks, or excessive wear. A damaged flywheel can cause improper clutch engagement and needs resurfacing or replacement.

### 6. **Installation of New Clutch Plate**
- **Align New Clutch Plate:** Place the new clutch plate, ensuring it is aligned with the flywheel and splines. Proper alignment is crucial for effective engagement.
- **Reattach Pressure Plate:** Secure the pressure plate over the new clutch plate, ensuring an even distribution of pressure. This will ensure the clutch plate engages fully when the pedal is released.

### 7. **Reassembly**
- Reattach the transmission to the engine, ensuring all components are secured and aligned properly to prevent future issues.

### 8. **Testing**
- Once reassembled, start the vehicle and test the clutch function. Smooth engagement and disengagement indicate a successful replacement.

### **Fixing the Fault**
Replacing the clutch plate restores proper engagement and disengagement of the engine power. A new clutch plate ensures that friction surfaces are intact, allowing for proper grip and functioning. This resolves issues such as slipping and difficulty shifting, restoring the vehicle's drivability. By addressing wear and potential damage to the flywheel and pressure plate, the repair ensures longevity and reliability of the clutch system.
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