Isuzu D-Max 2011 factory workshop and repair manual download pdf

The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002. It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand, although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.

Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March 5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.

The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor redesign in late 2007.

Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank. Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.

In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing models any more than 2 concepts before.

In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax" engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New 2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian Twin.

Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors, which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of 2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter powerplant with 177-horses.

Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual

Tools & supplies required
- Factory service manual for your Isuzu D‑Max engine (model/year specific torque & timing specs).
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets, ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (capable to engine cam/cover torques).
- Valve spring compressor designed for overhead cam heads (C‑clamp or lever type with interchangeable cup/adapter set for retainer).
- Small magnet or magnetic pickup tool and thin pick (to remove keepers).
- Screwdrivers, rubber mallet.
- Feeler gauges, straight edge.
- Caliper or ruler (measure spring free height).
- Shop rags, solvent, parts tray.
- New valve stem seals (one per valve) — strongly recommended.
- New valve springs (matched set) if springs are worn or you are doing an overhaul.
- New valve keepers/retainers only if damaged or specified.
- Assembly lube and clean engine oil.
- Camshaft locking pin or timing lock tool (vehicle‑specific).
- Gloves, safety glasses.
- Engine oil drain pan (optional), clean oil for priming.
- Torque seal (optional), thread locker if specified.

Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep loose clothing/jewelry away.
- Use proper lifting/support for any removed parts (intake, turbo piping).
- Keep small parts (keepers) contained — they can fly out when spring is released.
- Follow service manual for locking timing components before removing cam/caps.
- Do not rotate crank/cam while timing chain/belt is removed or cam is loose.

High‑level plan
A. Remove cam cover and any obstructions. B. Lock timing and either: (1) use an on‑head valve spring compressor with cam(s) in place, or (2) remove camshaft(s) for safer, full access, then use compressor. C. Compress spring, remove keepers, replace seal/spring, reassemble with correct torque and timing checks.

Step‑by‑step procedure (typical OHC Isuzu D‑Max 4JJ1/4JK1 style engines)
1) Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, set parking brake. Allow engine to cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove engine covers/intake plenum/intercooler piping blocking valve cover access.
- Remove cosmetic engine cover and any wiring harness clamps on the valve cover.
- Remove valve (cam) cover bolts and lift cover off. Keep gasket careful — replace if damaged.

2) Set engine to TDC & lock timing
- Rotate engine by hand to TDC on cylinder 1 (use crank bolt). Confirm cam timing marks.
- Install camshaft locking pin or follow factory procedure to lock timing chain/belt and tensioner. Never leave cam loosened without locking if you will disturb timing components.
- If you’re not comfortable using the on‑head compressor with cam in place, remove camshaft(s) following the manufacturer sequence: loosen caps in sequence gradually, mark cap orientation and bearing location, lift cam out and store with bearing faces up on clean cloth.

3) Remove rocker arms/followers where required
- If rocker arms or followers sit between compressor and retainer, remove them and keep parts in order. Keep pushrods or shims in their original locations if present.

4) Using the valve spring compressor (with cam in place or cam removed)
- Choose the proper adapter cup for the compressor that seats on the retainer without contacting the valve stem seal area.
- Position the compressor so the bottom cup bears on the spring retainer and the top rests on a stable head surface (on cam lobe base circle if cam present, or directly on cam cap/companion surface if cam removed). If cam is installed, rotate the cam so the lobe for that cylinder is at the base circle (not pressing the valve) — that gives clearance and prevents cam damage.
- Slowly compress the spring until the keeper halves (locks) are exposed and loose under the retainer.
- Use a small magnetic pickup or thin pick to remove the keeper halves. CAUTION: keepers are small and will fly if suddenly released — keep hands and face away and use a magnet/pick to control them.
- Once keepers are out, slowly release the compressor and remove retainer and spring. Then remove old valve stem seal (if accessible) — pry straight up with thin pliers or screwdriver; be careful not to score valve guide.
- Clean the valve stem and guide area. Inspect valve stem for wear, and check spring for cracks or corrosion.
- Measure old spring free length and compare to service spec or new spring. Replace springs in sets if out of spec.

5) Installing new seals/springs
- Lubricate valve stem lightly with clean engine oil or assembly lube.
- Install new valve stem seal onto valve guide. Press it square and fully down to the specified seating depth (use an appropriate socket or seal installer).
- Place spring and retainer on valve. Compress slowly with the compressor.
- Install keeper halves on the valve stem groove — make sure correct orientation and they seat fully in the groove. Use magnet or pick to position them; they should snap into the retainer taper.
- Slowly release compressor until retainer seats on keepers. Verify keepers are fully seated by trying to move retainer slightly and by visually checking all around the retainer.
- Repeat for each valve that needs servicing. Work methodically and keep parts for each cylinder grouped.

6) Reassembly
- If you removed camshafts, reinstall following factory procedure: put cam(s) back in place, install caps in correct orientation and torque caps in the specified sequence and steps.
- Remove cam lock and recheck timing marks; re-tension chain/belt per spec.
- Reinstall rocker arms/followers if removed. Adjust any valve clearance or lash per manual if required (some D‑Max engines use hydraulic lash adjusters — check).
- Install new valve cover gasket if old one was damaged; torque cover bolts to spec.
- Reinstall any removed intake, piping, wiring clips, etc.

7) Final checks & start
- Rotate engine by hand two full revolutions and check for unusual resistance and re‑verify timing marks.
- Reconnect battery. Prime oil system if cam was removed (turn ignition to ON without starting to energize oil pump if applicable, or crank briefly to build oil pressure).
- Start engine and listen for abnormal noises. Check for oil leaks around valve cover.
- After warm up, recheck operation and any required valve lash or timing checks.

How the valve spring compressor is used (detail)
- Adapter selection: pick a lower cup that centers on the spring retainer and an upper support that bears on a solid part of the head or cam cap. Some designs include a fork/lever that clamps behind the cam cap; others are a threaded C‑clamp.
- Compression: turn the handle/bolt slowly to compress. Compress just enough to expose keeper halves—overcompression isn’t necessary and risks tool slippage.
- Keeper removal: use a magnetic pickup or pick to lift each half straight up out of the retainer groove; do not pry sideways. Keep hands out of alignment in case keeper drops.
- Valve stem seal removal/install: use thin pliers or a seal puller to remove; to install a new seal use a socket that matches outer diameter to press seal on squarely. Do not hammer seal.

Common pitfalls & what to avoid
- Not locking timing before loosening cam caps — can cause dropped timing, valve/piston interference on interference engines.
- Compressing against a cam lobe; always position on the base circle or remove cam.
- Losing or mixing keepers/retainers — keep per‑cylinder trays and work one cylinder at a time.
- Reusing valve stem seals — they harden and commonly should be replaced whenever springs are removed.
- Reusing weak or corroded springs — measure free length and replace springs in matched sets if out of spec.
- Damaging the valve stem or guide when removing/installing seals — use proper seal installer and avoid prying on guides.
- Incorrect re‑torque sequence for cam caps — follow service manual torques and sequences.
- Forgetting to prime oil or verify oil pressure before running after cam removal.
- Reassembling without double‑checking timing marks — results in misfire or engine damage.

Parts to replace (recommended)
- Valve stem seals (always when springs removed).
- Valve springs (if out of spec, corroded, or part of performance rebuild).
- Keepers/retainers only if worn/damaged.
- Valve cover gasket if disturbed or brittle.
- Camshaft seals/gaskets only if removed or leaking.

Final notes
- Follow the Isuzu factory manual for torque values, timing lock procedures, spring specs, and any engine‑specific steps.
- If unsure or engine is interference type and cam timing is disturbed, consider professional shop service.

End.
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- **Safety Gear**
- **Gloves**: Protects your hands from dirt and sharp edges.
- **Safety Glasses**: Shields your eyes from debris.

- **Tools Needed**
- **Jack**: Used to lift the vehicle off the ground. Ensure it’s rated for the weight of the Isuzu D-Max.
- **Jack Stands**: To support the vehicle securely once lifted; never work under a vehicle only supported by a jack.
- **Lug Wrench**: For removing wheel nuts. Make sure it fits the size of the nuts on your D-Max.
- **Socket Set**: Essential for removing bolts and nuts from the wheel hub. You'll need a ratchet and various socket sizes (typically 10mm to 21mm).
- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications, preventing over-tightening or under-tightening.
- **Hammer**: For gently persuading parts to come loose if they’re stuck.
- **Pry Bar**: Helpful for removing stubborn components, like the wheel bearing assembly.
- **Bearing Puller**: If you're replacing the wheel bearing, this tool is necessary to remove the bearing from the hub assembly. It grips the bearing and pulls it out without damaging the hub.
- **Grease**: For lubricating the new wheel bearing to ensure smooth operation.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Wheel Bearing Kit**: You will likely need a new wheel bearing as the old one may be worn or damaged. This usually includes the bearing, seals, and sometimes new bolts.
- **Wheel Hub Assembly**: If the hub is damaged or rusted, you might need to replace the entire hub assembly.
- **Brake Pads/Shoes**: Check the condition of brake pads while you're there; replace if worn.

- **Step-by-Step Process**
- **Preparation**: Park the vehicle on a flat surface, engage the parking brake, and loosen the lug nuts slightly while the wheel is still on the ground.
- **Lifting the Vehicle**:
- Use the jack to lift the vehicle.
- Place jack stands under the vehicle at the manufacturer-recommended points for safety.
- **Removing the Wheel**:
- Remove the lug nuts completely and take off the wheel.
- **Accessing the Wheel Bearing**:
- Remove the brake caliper and bracket using the socket set; hang it securely with a wire to avoid stress on the brake line.
- Remove the rotor if necessary, depending on your D-Max's configuration.
- **Removing the Hub Assembly**:
- Use the pry bar or hammer if needed to remove the hub assembly from the knuckle.
- Use the bearing puller to extract the old wheel bearing from the hub if it’s being replaced.
- **Installing New Parts**:
- Clean the hub and knuckle area.
- Insert the new wheel bearing using the bearing puller, ensuring it’s seated correctly.
- Reinstall the hub assembly, ensuring all surfaces are clean and free of debris.
- **Reassembly**:
- Reattach the rotor and brake caliper.
- Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- **Lowering the Vehicle**:
- Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle back to the ground.
- Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
- **Final Checks**:
- Use the torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Check the brakes and wheel rotation to ensure everything is functioning correctly.

- **Post-Installation Advice**
- Test drive the vehicle at low speeds and listen for any unusual noises.
- Regularly check the new bearing for signs of wear or noise over the next few weeks.
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Replacing the clutch plate in an Isuzu D-Max involves several steps, each addressing specific components of the clutch system. Here’s a focused explanation of the theory behind the repair and how it resolves common faults.

### 1. **Understanding the Clutch System**
- The clutch plate is a key component of the vehicle's manual transmission system. It engages and disengages the engine power from the transmission, allowing for smooth gear changes.
- Over time, the clutch plate wears due to friction from constant engagement and disengagement, leading to symptoms like slipping, difficulty in shifting gears, or unusual noises.

### 2. **Diagnosis of Fault**
- Symptoms such as slipping (engine revs without acceleration), difficulty in shifting, or a burning smell indicate that the clutch plate may be worn out.
- Checking for these symptoms confirms the need for replacement.

### 3. **Disassembly**
- **Remove Transmission:** Disconnect the battery, then remove the drive shafts, starter motor, and any necessary components to access the transmission.
- **Separation:** Unbolt the transmission from the engine, allowing access to the clutch assembly.

### 4. **Clutch Assembly Removal**
- **Remove Pressure Plate:** Unscrew and detach the pressure plate which holds the clutch plate against the flywheel. This step is critical as it releases the tension on the clutch plate.
- **Remove Clutch Plate:** Take out the worn clutch plate. Its condition (cracks, excessive wear) will confirm the need for replacement.

### 5. **Inspection of Flywheel**
- Check the flywheel for grooves, cracks, or excessive wear. A damaged flywheel can cause improper clutch engagement and needs resurfacing or replacement.

### 6. **Installation of New Clutch Plate**
- **Align New Clutch Plate:** Place the new clutch plate, ensuring it is aligned with the flywheel and splines. Proper alignment is crucial for effective engagement.
- **Reattach Pressure Plate:** Secure the pressure plate over the new clutch plate, ensuring an even distribution of pressure. This will ensure the clutch plate engages fully when the pedal is released.

### 7. **Reassembly**
- Reattach the transmission to the engine, ensuring all components are secured and aligned properly to prevent future issues.

### 8. **Testing**
- Once reassembled, start the vehicle and test the clutch function. Smooth engagement and disengagement indicate a successful replacement.

### **Fixing the Fault**
Replacing the clutch plate restores proper engagement and disengagement of the engine power. A new clutch plate ensures that friction surfaces are intact, allowing for proper grip and functioning. This resolves issues such as slipping and difficulty shifting, restoring the vehicle's drivability. By addressing wear and potential damage to the flywheel and pressure plate, the repair ensures longevity and reliability of the clutch system.
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