The 5S-FE ended up being available in a few variants each getting recognized by valve address design. Initial generation, introduced into the 1990--92 Celica GT/GT-S and MR2, had a power score of 130 hp and 144 lbs-ft/torque. The 2nd generation had been launched in 1993 using the fifth generation (ST184) Celica, and continued through the 6th generation (ST204) Celica. The second generation was also utilized in the MR2 (SW21) and Camry/Scepter (XV10) show and had a power production of 135 hp and 145 lbs-ft/torque. They have a little less hostile cams, no cool start injector, a knock sensor, and more aggressive tuning to give it somewhat most energy. In states that had adopted California emission guidelines the 5S-FE is ranked at 130 hp and 145 lbs-ft/torque due mainly to emission products familiar with meet those emission laws. The third generation had been the final 5S-FE engine produced and was found in the 1997--01 Camry XV20 and 1999--01 Camry Solara; but from 1996 onward, the engine gotten a crank direction sensor rather than a cam direction sensor for a smoother idle. From 1997 to 1999 the engine produced 133 hp at 5,200 rpm and 147 lbs-ft/torque at 4,400 rpm. From 2000 to 2001, the motor gotten moderate modifications to improve power output to 136 hp at 5,200 rpm and 150 lbs-ft/torque at 4,400 rpm. The 5S-FE is replaced in all programs because of the 2.4 L 2AZ-FE.
Ca specification 1994-1996 5S-FEs into the Celica and Camry made use of air-assisted, 250 cc injectors, and sequential gas injections for reduced emissions over the grouped (2+2) firing system. The 1994-1995 MR2 failed to obtain this changes, nor performed Camrys/Celicas in national emissions shows.
Camry 5S-FEs have a counter-rotating stability shaft assembly to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness. They decrease the 2nd order vibrations typical to 4-cylinder motors by spinning at twice as much crankshaft speed. The 1994-1999 Celica and 1991-1995 MR2 5S-FEs shortage these balance shafts, so any 5S-FE motor with balance shafts likely came from a Camry.
In 1997, when it comes to fourth generation Camry, the 5S-FE had been updated the past time. This system received a primary ignition program with exterior camshaft and crankshaft detectors. This method put a waste-spark build, and also the coils have integrated igniters. The engine couldn't use a typical coil-on-plug build, but instead two coil+igniter assemblies attached near cylinder four, and offered spark via regular high-tension cords (spark plug cables). This modification implies that the 1997-01 Camry 5S-FE has actually a blocked off provider mounting opening and may be applied with older 5S-FEs without swapping cylinder minds.
The 1997-99 Camry 5S-FE carried on aided by the air-assisted, 250 cc injectors. The Camry 5S-FE additionally have a factory 4-to-1 fatigue build - in government type, it had no pre-catalyst, although the California version performed replace the collector build of the Federal variation with a warm-up pre-catalyst for decreased cool start emissions.
For 2000 Toyota eliminated the air-assisted injectors and moved to superfine atomization (~50 micrometers), 12-hole, 235 cc injectors made by Denso. These are generally of another type of design, and required a modification of the cylinder mind casting.
For 2001 Toyota begun installing factory MLS (multi-layer metal) mind gaskets alongside steel gaskets layered with Viton to engines, such as the 5S-FE. MLS head gaskets require cylinder head and cylinder block resurfacing on older motors to make certain correct sealing; consequently, the MLS head gasket didn't supersede the old composite mind gasket.
The 1994-99 Celica 5S-FE had not been up-to-date with your changes, and proceeded to utilize a supplier plus the old electronic control system and injectors. Any used engine noted as a 1997-01 Camry 5S-FE with a distributor are a Celica 5S-FE or elderly Camry 5S-FE.
Toyota's 5S-FE ended up being a 2.2-litre four-cylinder inline petrol engine. The 5S-FE had been a non-interference engine and provided numerous qualities aided by the 3S-FE, but had been distinguished by their increasing bore and swing. Crucial features of the 5S-FE engine integrate its cast-iron block, aluminum alloy cylinder mind, dual overhead camshafts and 9.5:1 compression.
During their production, the 5S-FE underwent two distinct news, occasionally referred to as the next and third 'generations' or 'revisions'
Expense camshaft, generally abbreviated to OHC, was a valvetrain setup which puts the camshaft of an internal burning engine of the reciprocating type within the cylinder minds ("above" the pistons and combustion chambers) and pushes the valves or lifters in an even more direct way weighed against expense valves (OHV) and pushrods.
Compared with OHV pushrod systems with the same few valves, the reciprocating the different parts of the OHC program is a lot fewer and have a diminished overall size. Although system that drives the camshafts is more complicated, many system providers take that included difficulty as a trade-off for best system overall performance and better design versatility. The basic reason for the OHC valvetrain is it offers a rise in the engine's power to trade induction and fatigue gases (this exchange is sometimes generally "engine breathing"). Another results advantage is gained as a consequence of the greater optimised interface configurations authorized with expense camshaft design. Without intrusive pushrods, the expense camshaft cylinder mind design may use straighter harbors of most advantageous cross-section and size. The OHC design enables greater engine speeds than similar cam-in-block design, as a consequence of creating reduced valvetrain size. The higher motor rates therefore let increases energy production for certain torque production.
Disadvantages regarding the OHC design include the difficulty for the camshaft drive, the need to re-time the drive system every time the cylinder head is removed, plus the ease of access of tappet modification if required. In early in the day OHC systems, like inter-war Morrises and Wolseleys, oils leakages within the lubrication systems were in addition a problem.
Solitary expense camshaft
A Honda D15A3 series solitary overhead camshaft cylinder mind from a 1987 Honda CRX 4 cylinder 12 valve.
Single expense camshaft (SOHC) is a design by which one camshaft is placed within the cylinder head. In an inline motor, what this means is discover one camshaft inside head, while in a system with over one cylinder head, particularly a V engine or a horizontally-opposed system (boxer; level engine) -- there are two camshafts, one per cylinder bank.
Into the SOHC design, the camshaft runs the valves right, traditionally via a container tappet; or via an intermediary rocker supply. SOHC cylinder minds are less expensive to produce than dual overhead camshaft (DOHC) cylinder heads. Timing buckle replacement may be easier since there are a lot fewer camshaft drive sprockets that have to be lined up throughout the substitution procedure.
SOHC design provide paid off complexity compared with overhead valve styles when utilized for multivalve cylinder minds, which each cylinder features over two valves. An example of an SOHC build using shim and container valve modification was the engine put in in the Hillman Imp (four-cylinder, eight valve), a little, early-1960s two-door saloon vehicles (sedan) with a rear-mounted aluminium-alloy engine in line with the Coventry orgasm FWMA battle machines. Exhaust and inlet manifolds are both on a single side of the system block (therefore not a crossflow cylinder mind design). This did, however, provide exceptional usage of the spark plugs.
In the early 1980s, Toyota and Volkswagen team also made use of a right actuated SOHC synchronous device setup with two valves for every single cylinder. The Toyota system made use of hydraulic tappets. The Volkswagen program used container tappets with shims for valve-clearance modification.
a double expense camshaft (DOHC) valvetrain layout are characterised by two camshafts present in the cylinder head, one running the intake valves in addition to other one operating the fatigue valves. This build decreases valvetrain inertia above is the case with an SOHC motor, since the rocker arms tend to be lower in dimensions or eradicated. A DOHC build permits a wider angle between intake and exhaust valves than in SOHC motors. This can offer a less restricted airflow at higher system rates. DOHC with a multivalve build also enables the optimum keeping the spark plug, which in turn gets better burning effectiveness. Engines creating more than one lender of cylinders (e.g. V6, V8 -- in which two-cylinder financial institutions satisfy to create a "V") with two camshafts overall stay SOHC and "double cam" unless each cylinder lender has actually two camshafts; the latter were DOHC, and they are often known as "quad cam".
Although the term "double cam" is generally always reference DOHC machines, it's imprecise, because it includes designs with two block-mounted camshafts. For example the Harley-Davidson Twin Cam system, Riley automobile engines from 1926 towards the mid 1950s, Triumph bike parallel-twins from 1930s on 1980s, and Indian Chief and Scout V-twins from 1920 to your 1950s.
The terminology "multivalve" and "DOHC" never reference exactly the same thing: not absolutely all multivalve engines were DOHC rather than all DOHC motors are multivalve. Samples of DOHC engines with two valves per cylinder are the Alfa Romeo Twin Cam system, the Jaguar XK6 engine plus the Lotus Ford Twin Cam engine. Most recent DOHC motors is multivalve, with between three and five valves per cylinder.
a dual overhead camshaft (DOHC) valvetrain design was characterised by two camshafts operating inside the cylinder mind, one operating the intake valves therefore the other one running the fatigue valves. This build decrease valvetrain inertia significantly more than is the case with an SOHC engine, since the rocker arms are lower in dimensions or eradicated. A DOHC build permits a wider perspective between consumption and fatigue valves than in SOHC machines. This will provide a less restricted airflow at greater system speeds. DOHC with a multivalve build in addition permits the optimum keeping the spark plug, which in turn improves burning efficiency. Engines creating more than one lender of cylinders (e.g. V6, V8 -- in which two cylinder banks fulfill to make a "V") with two camshafts overall remain SOHC and "double cam" unless each cylinder bank features two camshafts; the latter is DOHC, and generally known as "quad cam".
Even though the term "double cam" is often accustomed relate to DOHC motors, it's imprecise, since it include designs with two block-mounted camshafts. For example the Harley-Davidson Twin Cam motor, Riley vehicle motors from 1926 towards the middle 1950s, victory bike parallel-twins from 1930s into the 1980s, and Indian main and Scout V-twins from 1920 into 1950s.
The terms "multivalve" and "DOHC" don't reference the same thing: not totally all multivalve motors are DOHC and never all DOHC machines is multivalve. Types of DOHC motors with two valves per cylinder include the Alfa Romeo Twin Cam system, the Jaguar XK6 engine additionally the Lotus Ford Twin Cam system. Latest DOHC motors is multivalve, with between three and five valves per cylinder.
Toyota 5S Engine | Turbo, upgrades, engine oil, etc.
Toyota 5S-FE engine reliability, problems and repair. The engine Toyota 5S was produced in 1990. The 3S engine was taken as a model. Its cylinder diameter was enlarged to 87.1 mm and a brand new crankshaft with a 90.9 mm piston stroke was mounted.
Toyota 5SFE 2.2 Long Block Crate Engine Sale
Our Toyota 5S-FE 2.2 liter Long Block Crate Engine is on sale. This 2.2 engine was introduced to the market in 1992 and became most popular for its use in the Toyota Camry and Solara models. Earlier generation motors we're prone to an excess of noise and vibration.
How to replace timing belt Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine
How to replace timing belt Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine. Years 1990 to 2002.
Toyota S engine - Wikipedia
The 1994-99 Celica 5S-FE was not updated with these changes, and continued to use a distributor and the older electronic control system and injectors. Any used engine marked as a 1997-01 Camry 5S-FE with a distributor is a Celica 5S-FE or older Camry 5S-FE. [citation needed] The 5S-FE has a 9.5:1 compression ratio.
5SFE Engine | eBay
The engine 5S-FE is used JDM Engine imported directly from Japan that is used in TOYOTA CAMRY (1997 to 2001). It is 2.2L 4 cylinder Twin cam engine. It has estimated below 65000 Mileage which will def...
5sfe engine | eBay
4 product ratings - Toyota Celica Convertible Engine Motor ST183 OEM 5S-FE New Timing Belt 9.99 Trending at 3.00 Trending price is based on prices over last 90 days.
5S-FE Toyota engine - AustralianCar.Reviews
Toyota's 5S-FE was a 2.2-litre four-cylinder inline petrol engine. The 5S-FE was a non-interference engine and shared many attributes with the 3S-FE, but was distinguished by its increased bore and stroke.
Engine 5SÃFE - Wiring Diagrams - auto-manual.com
The Engine Control System broadly consists of the sensors, Engine Control Module (ECM) and actuators. The ECM receives signals from various sensors, judges the operating conditions and determines the optimum injection duration, timing, ignition timing and idle speed.
### Suspension Strut Tower Repair on a Toyota 5S-FE
#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm)
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Pry Bar**
4. **Jack and Jack Stands**
5. **Strut Spring Compressor** (if replacing struts)
6. **Screwdrivers** (flat and Phillips)
7. **Wrenches** (various sizes)
8. **Hammer**
9. **Pliers**
10. **Metal File or Grinder** (for rust repair)
11. **Welding Equipment** (if needed for structural repairs)
12. **Rust Inhibitor/Primer and Paint** (for rust prevention)
#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Wear safety glasses** to protect your eyes from debris.
2. **Use gloves** to protect your hands from sharp metal.
3. **Ensure vehicle is on a flat surface** and securely supported by jack stands.
4. **Disconnect the battery** before starting work to prevent electrical shorts.
#### Step-by-Step Repair Process:
1. **Preparation**:
- Park the vehicle on a stable surface and engage the parking brake.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. **Raise the Vehicle**:
- Use a jack to lift the front of the vehicle.
- Secure it on jack stands.
3. **Remove Wheel**:
- Use a socket and wrench to remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
4. **Access the Strut Tower**:
- Remove any plastic covers or trim that may obstruct access to the strut tower.
5. **Inspect for Damage**:
- Check for rust or cracks around the strut tower. If any structural damage is found, prepare for welding or reinforcement.
6. **Remove Strut Assembly**:
- Detach the strut from the lower control arm by removing the bolts using a socket.
- Remove the top strut mount bolts from the strut tower using a socket.
7. **Use Spring Compressor** (if replacing struts):
- Securely attach the spring compressor to the strut spring.
- Compress the spring to relieve tension before removing the top strut nut.
8. **Replace Strut or Repair**:
- If replacing, remove the old strut and install the new one.
- If repairing, clean the area around the strut tower with a file or grinder.
- Use a welding machine to repair any cracks or reattach any loose metal.
9. **Repaint and Seal**:
- Apply rust inhibitor and primer to the repaired area.
- Allow it to dry before reassembly.
10. **Reassemble Strut**:
- If using a new strut, mount the strut in reverse order of disassembly.
- Ensure all bolts are torqued to the manufacturer’s specifications.
11. **Reattach Wheel**:
- Place the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
12. **Lower the Vehicle**:
- Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle with the jack.
13. **Final Checks**:
- Tighten the lug nuts to the correct torque specification.
- Reconnect the battery.
- Test drive the vehicle to ensure proper handling and alignment.
#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Using a Spring Compressor**: Attempting to disassemble the strut assembly without a spring compressor can lead to serious injury.
- **Ignoring Rust**: Failing to repair rust damage can lead to further deterioration and safety issues.
- **Incorrect Torque Settings**: Always refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for torque settings to avoid loose or overly tight components.
- **Neglecting Alignment**: After strut work, a wheel alignment is essential for proper vehicle handling.
### Replacement Parts:
- Strut assembly (if damaged)
- Strut mounts (often replaced when struts are replaced)
- Any bolts or nuts that show signs of wear or corrosion should also be replaced.
This detailed procedure should enable effective suspension strut tower repair on a Toyota 5S-FE.
rteeqp73
- Purpose and quick summary
- Replace or service the crankshaft main bearings on a Toyota 5S‑FE (bearings that support the crankshaft) to restore correct oil clearances, remove noise/knock, stop oil pressure loss and prevent catastrophic engine failure.
- This is advanced engine work. It requires engine disassembly, precision measurement, and correct torque/sequence. Follow a Toyota factory service manual (FSM) torque specs and sequences.
- Safety and general prep
- Disconnect battery, drain engine oil and coolant.
- Use quality jack stands on a flat surface if the car stays on the ground; never work on a car supported only by a jack.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and keep work area clean and well lit.
- Label and bag bolts/parts to avoid assembly errors.
- Basic skill/knowledge checklist (if you are a complete beginner)
- Comfortable removing engine accessories, transmission or supporting the engine, and removing oil pan/timing cover.
- Comfortable using torque wrench and can read a service manual.
- Willing to use measuring tools (plastigauge, micrometer/dial bore gauge) and interpret results.
- Tools (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric deep and shallow sockets, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives)
- Use for removing bolts and nuts. Match socket size to fastener, avoid rounding heads. Keep extensions and universal joints for awkward angles.
- Ratchets and breaker bar
- Ratchets for normal fastener removal/installation. Breaker bar for stubborn bolts; apply steady force, not sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, 3/8" and/or 1/2" drive covering required torque range)
- Set to specified Nm/lb·ft and tighten to required torque. Use for main cap bolts, head bolts, etc. Follow torque sequence and steps (incremental torquing).
- Engine hoist (cherry picker) and engine stand
- Required if you remove the engine from the car (recommended). Hoist lifts the engine safely; engine stand holds the engine for access to the oil pan and crank. Use rated lifting chains and correct lift points.
- Floor jack and quality jack stands
- If working with engine in car, use a sturdy jack and stands to support the vehicle and/or support engine from below. Do not rely on the jack alone.
- Transmission jack or second person and support bar
- If removing transmission to drop the oil pan or separate engine/transmission, use a transmission jack or secure the trans to avoid falling.
- Screwdrivers and pry bars
- For removing covers, gaskets, and prying parts gently. Use plastic or brass pry tools where possible to avoid damage.
- Oil drain pan and sealant scraper
- Catch fluids; scrape residues to clean mating surfaces carefully.
- Gasket scrapers and razor blades
- Remove old gasket material without gouging surfaces.
- Seal puller or hook tool
- Remove the rear main seal and other seals without damaging the crank surface or housing.
- Hammer and soft mallet (rubber or dead blow)
- Tap parts into place gently. Avoid steel hammer blows on aluminum.
- Feeler gauge set
- Not usually used for mains but useful for related clearances.
- Plastigauge (multiple widths)
- Thin soft plastic strip used to measure oil clearance between bearing and crank journal. Place on journal, install cap to torque, remove, and measure width flattened against scale.
- Micrometer (outside micrometer, 0–1" and higher range)
- Measure crankshaft journal diameter accurately. Use consistent technique and clean surfaces.
- Dial bore gauge or telescoping gauge + inside micrometer
- Measure bearing bore inside the main caps/engine block to calculate clearance. Dial bore gauge gives most accurate results.
- Straightedge and feeler or alignment tools
- Check for block/crank distortions if needed.
- Torque angle gauge (if bolts are torque‑to‑angle)
- Measures added rotation angle required by torque‑to‑yield bolts.
- Bearing installer/driver (or soft wood blocks)
- Helps seat bearings without damage. Usually main bearings press into caps/housings and don't require a special driver, but use a gentle even method.
- Clean lint‑free rags, solvent, compressed air
- Cleanliness is critical; dirt will destroy bearings quickly.
- New engine oil (assembly lube and refill oil) and oil filter
- Use assembly lube on bearings during assembly; change to fresh oil after startup.
- Workshop manual (Toyota FSM) for 5S‑FE
- Contains torque specs, sequences, clearances and service limits—essential.
- Extra tools often required and why
- Engine hoist and engine stand
- Why: full access to oil pan, caps and crank is far easier and safer off the car. In‑car work may be possible but is much harder and riskier.
- Dial bore gauge / outside micrometer
- Why: accurate measurement of journal and bearing bores is required to determine correct bearing size/clearance. Plastigauge alone gives clearance but not journal wear or which undersize bearing to use.
- Crankshaft polishing/grinding service or bench grinder (NOT DIY without experience)
- Why: if crank journals are scored or worn beyond spec, the crank must be reground to an undersize and matching undersize bearings fitted, or be replaced.
- New main cap bolts (if bolts are torque‑to‑yield or show stretch)
- Why: torque‑to‑yield bolts cannot be reliably reused; they may fail if reused.
- Engine lift brackets or OEM lifting eye hardware
- Why: safe lifting alignment.
- Parts that must or usually should be replaced and why
- Main bearing set (complete set)
- Why: worn bearings cause low oil pressure and knock. Replace with correct OEM or high‑quality aftermarket set matched to journal sizes.
- Thrust bearings (center/main thrust)
- Why: control axial crank movement. If worn, causes endplay and noise; always inspect and typically replace when doing mains.
- Rear main seal
- Why: seal is exposed when removing the crank and is cheap; replace to prevent oil leaks.
- Oil pump gasket and possibly oil pump if damaged
- Why: prolonged bearing wear can damage the pump; replacing pump or gasket ensures correct oil pressure.
- Main cap bolts (conditional)
- Why: if OEM bolts are torque‑to‑yield or show stretch/corrosion; check FSM. Replace if specified.
- Full gasket set (oil pan gasket, front cover gasket, etc.)
- Why: removed components require new gaskets to prevent leaks.
- Crankshaft (conditional)
- Why: if journals are scored beyond service limits and cannot be rebabbitted/undersized properly, the crank must be machined by a machine shop to undersize journals or replaced.
- Step overview (high level, bullet sequence for the job flow)
- Remove ancillary components: intake, exhaust manifolds (if needed for access), alternator, AC, power steering, belts, pulleys and wiring that obstruct removal.
- Decide engine in‑car or drop engine: remove transmission or support and remove crossmember as needed. Lift engine out with hoist if chosen; mount on engine stand.
- Remove timing cover, timing belt/chain, cam components as required to free crank pulley and front cover.
- Drain oil, remove oil pan and oil pickup; remove oil pump if it blocks main cap access.
- Remove main bearing caps in the proper order; keep caps matched to position and orientation (mark them).
- Inspect crank journals visually for scoring, discoloration, or pitting.
- Measure crank journal diameters with micrometer and main bore diameters with dial bore gauge or measure clearances using plastigauge to determine current clearance.
- Decide replacement size: if journals within spec, standard bearings fit; if journals worn, determine required undersize bearing dimension or have crank reground.
- Install new bearings into block and caps, apply assembly lube to bearing surfaces.
- Carefully install crank (if removed) ensuring not to damage bearings, or reinstall caps over crank with bearings in place.
- Torque main cap bolts in FSM specified sequence and steps with torque wrench. If bolts are torque‑to‑yield, replace them and use correct angle procedure.
- Recheck bearing clearance with plastigauge or dial bore gauge after torquing to confirm correct clearance.
- Check thrust clearance (axial endplay) with dial indicator and correct as necessary (replace thrust bearing if out of spec).
- Reinstall oil pump, oil pickup, new oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front cover and timing components. Replace any removed seals/gaskets.
- Reinstall accessories, transmission or remount engine, refill fluids and prime oiling system (pre‑lubricate bearings or crank with assembly lube and spin oil pump to build pressure before initial start).
- Start engine briefly, check for leaks, check oil pressure, and re‑torque bolts if FSM requires recheck.
- How to use key measurement/assembly tools (short how‑to)
- Plastigauge
- Place a short strip along journal or bearing surface, install and torque cap to spec, remove cap without rotating crank, measure the flattened strip against plastigauge scale to read clearance.
- Micrometer
- Clean journal, zero micrometer, take multiple measurements around journal and average. Read to 0.01 mm (0.0001 in) accuracy.
- Dial bore gauge
- Calibrate on a reference ring or use an outside micrometer to set, then measure inside bearing bores to get bore size and roundness.
- Torque wrench
- Set to the required value, snug bolt in progressive sequence in steps, then final torque. Use proper drive size and do not exceed torque wrench capacity. For angle torques, use torque angle gauge after initial torque steps.
- Engine hoist
- Attach chains to proper lift points, lift slowly, keep engine balanced, and use an assistant to guide clearances.
- How to decide whether crank journals need machining or full crank replacement
- If journal measurements vs service limits show wear beyond allowable tolerance, crank must be reground to next undersize and matching undersize bearings used.
- If journals have deep scoring, pitting or taper beyond what regrinding can fix, replace crankshaft.
- If only light scoring/polishing is needed, a crank polish may suffice, but a machine shop inspection is recommended.
- Common pitfalls and cautions
- Never reuse bearings with visible wear or if they’re deformed.
- Do not reuse torque‑to‑yield bolts unless FSM explicitly allows reuse.
- Cleanliness: any dirt in bearings reduces life drastically.
- Incorrect clearances will cause bearing failure—measure and confirm.
- Rushing or skipping measurement/torque steps risks catastrophic engine failure.
- Final items to buy (minimum parts list)
- Full main bearing kit (OEM or high‑quality aftermarket) including thrust bearings
- Rear main seal
- Oil pan gasket and related seals/gaskets
- Oil filter and fresh oil
- New main cap bolts (if FSM requires/recommends or bolts show damage)
- Optional: new oil pump (if suspicious), new connecting rod bearings if removed/inspected
- If you cannot do measurements or machining
- Take crankshaft and block to a reputable engine machine shop for measurement, grinding and balancing. They will recommend undersize bearings or crank replacement and recondition crank to spec.
- Final checks after assembly
- Prime oil system and check oil pressure before full idle.
- Monitor for leaks, abnormal noises, and recheck oil level. Perform road test and recheck torque connections per FSM.
- Key reference requirement
- Use the Toyota 5S‑FE factory service manual for exact torque specs, bolt sequences, allowable clearances, and whether any bolts are torque‑to‑yield. Do not attempt without FSM data.
- Bottom line
- Main bearing service is a precision job requiring measurement tools and often engine removal. Replace bearings, seals and any bolts as FSM dictates. If journals are out of spec, machining or crank replacement is required. Follow procedures, torque specs and cleanliness strictly to avoid engine failure.
rteeqp73
- Overview and safety first
- Work on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
- Wear gloves and safety glasses. Let the car cool if it’s been driven long; warm oil drains easier but don’t work under a hot car without protection.
- Use a proper floor jack and jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
- Tools you’ll need (every tool explained and how to use it)
- Floor jack (2‑ton minimum)
- Lifts the car so you can access the gearbox. Position the jack under the vehicle jacking point (manufacturer’s pinch weld or designated lift point). Pump handle to raise slowly. Always use jack stands after lifting.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Support the car securely once raised. Place under recommended support points (subframe or jacking points). Lower the car onto stands by slowly releasing the jack so the weight sits on the stands.
- Wheel chocks
- Wedges placed behind wheels remaining on the ground to prevent rolling. Essential even with parking brake set.
- Large oil drain pan (6–10 L capacity)
- Catch the gearbox oil. Place under the drain plug and ensure it will catch the stream; gearbox oil is sticky and darker than engine oil.
- Metric socket set with ratchet (common sizes 8–22 mm)
- Used to remove the drain and fill plugs and any skid plates. Fit the correct socket snugly onto the plug head and turn counterclockwise to loosen; use steady force to avoid stripping.
- Breaker bar / long handle ratchet
- Gives extra leverage for stuck or tightly torqued plugs. Use slow steady force; do not jerk.
- Torque wrench (in Nm, range ~10–100 Nm)
- Re-tightens plugs to the correct torque. Set the wrench to the specified Nm and tighten until it clicks. If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten snugly and then a small additional fraction of a turn — but this is less precise. Recommended: borrow or buy a torque wrench.
- Extension bar and universal joint (for tight angles)
- Helps reach plugs that are awkwardly positioned.
- Funnel or fluid transfer pump (hand pump or squeeze pump)
- Fill the gearbox through the side/fill plug hole. A long‑neck funnel works if the fill hole is accessible; a hand‑operated oil pump (also called gear oil pump) makes filling much easier, especially when the fill opening is high or awkward.
- Flathead screwdriver / pry bar (small)
- To remove any plastic covers or to gently clean gasket surfaces. Use gently to avoid damage.
- Wire brush / rag / brake cleaner
- Clean the drain/fill plug and around the holes before reassembly. Brake cleaner dissolves grime; rags catch drips.
- Magnetic pick-up tool (optional)
- Helpful to retrieve dropped nuts or to inspect for metal bits inside the drain pan/magnet.
- Disposable gloves, eye protection, shop rags, and absorbent mat
- Keeps you clean and prevents slipping or contamination.
- Replacement crush washer / gasket for drain plug (see “Parts”)
- Often the drain plug uses a single‑use crush washer; replace it to prevent leaks.
- Zip ties / drip tray / cardboard (optional)
- Keep the work area tidy and protect surfaces from spilled oil.
- Fluids and parts required (why required)
- Correct manual transmission gear oil (type and quantity)
- Toyota 5S-FE cars with a manual gearbox typically use a GL‑4 manual transmission oil such as 75W‑85 or 75W‑90 — Toyota often specifies a GL‑4 manual transmission fluid. Quantity commonly falls in the range of about 1.5–3.0 liters depending on the gearbox variant. Check the vehicle’s service manual or the fill capacity sticker. Why: correct viscosity and additive package protect gears and synchronizers.
- Drain plug crush washer (new)
- Many Toyota drain/fill plugs use a copper or aluminum crush washer. Replace whenever you drop the plug because the old washer won’t seal reliably and will leak.
- Replacement drain/fill plug (only if damaged)
- Replace if the hex head is rounded, threads are damaged, or magnet surface is badly worn.
- Seal replacements or professional service (only if leaking or metal debris found)
- If you find heavy metal shavings or experience leaks from seals, the gearbox may need further repairs (seal replacement, bearing/synchro work). Why: metal shavings indicate internal wear or damage; seals leaking will continue to lose oil and must be replaced.
- Preparatory steps
- Warm the gearbox briefly by driving 5–10 minutes (optional)
- Warm oil flows faster and drains more completely. Do not run the engine in gear while wheels are jacked up.
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, engage parking brake.
- Raise front of car with jack, place jack stands under safe points, lower onto stands.
- Put drain pan under the gearbox drain plug location. Identify the drain plug (lower plug) and the fill plug (higher on the side of the case). Remove any splash/undertray panels as needed.
- Draining procedure
- Clean the area around the drain plug with a rag and brake cleaner to prevent contamination.
- Place drain pan under drain plug and remove the plug with the correct socket, turning counterclockwise. Use a breaker bar if tight. Expect oil to pour out; remove slowly to control flow.
- Observe oil and magnet:
- Look at the oil color and smell (burnt smell or metallic color signals problems).
- If the plug has a magnet, wipe off metal flakes onto a rag. Small fine particles are normal; large chunks or heavy quantities of shavings are a sign of internal damage and require professional inspection.
- Allow oil to drain fully (several minutes). Tilt car slightly or rock it gently if safe to remove trapped oil.
- Inspect and clean
- Inspect drain plug threads and the crush washer. Replace washer.
- Clean plug and magnet area. If heavy metal debris present, record and consult a shop (may need teardown).
- Reinstall drain plug
- Fit a new crush washer on the drain plug and thread by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Tighten until snug, then torque to the manufacturer spec. If spec unknown, a typical range for gearbox drain plugs is roughly 25–40 Nm — use manual value where possible.
- Filling procedure
- Locate the fill plug on the side of the gearbox (higher than the drain). Clean around it.
- Remove fill plug with the correct socket. Use rag to catch drips.
- Fill with recommended gear oil using a funnel or pump. Fill slowly until oil starts to trickle out of the fill hole — that indicates the case is full to the designed level.
- If using a pump: insert hose into fill hole until you get a small overflow; stop pumping, allow a little time for settling, then recheck level.
- Reinstall fill plug with a new crush washer if applicable and torque to spec (again generally in the 25–40 Nm area unless your manual states otherwise).
- Final steps and checks
- Clean any spilled fluid, reinstall undertray/splash guards, remove jack stands and lower vehicle carefully.
- Dispose of used gear oil responsibly at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil.
- Test drive for a short distance and recheck for leaks around drain/fill plugs.
- After a short drive, recheck torque on drain and fill plugs if desired.
- Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Using the wrong fluid: can damage synchronizers. Use GL‑4 manual transmission oil as specified by Toyota.
- Overfilling: causes overflow and mess. Fill until it runs out of fill hole then stop.
- Underfilling: leads to poor lubrication and noise/gear damage. Make sure oil reaches fill level.
- Cross‑threading plugs: always start by hand and use the correct socket size.
- Working under unsupported vehicle: fatal. Always use jack stands.
- When parts or special service are required
- Replace crush washers every time drain plug is removed to ensure seal.
- Replace drain/fill plugs if damaged, rounded, stripped, or if magnet is missing or badly worn — damage will prevent a good seal or proper inspection for debris.
- Replace gearbox seals if you see external leaks from the gearbox case, output shafts, or shifter area. Seal replacement requires more disassembly and sometimes removal of the gearbox — consider a shop for this.
- If you find excessive metal shavings or hear grinding/noise from the gearbox after service, do not continue driving: further internal inspection and likely gearbox repair or rebuild will be required.
- Quick checklist for a beginner (tools and consumables to have on hand)
- Floor jack + 2 jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Metric socket set, extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Large drain pan
- Funnel or hand gear‑oil pump
- Rags, gloves, brake cleaner
- New crush washer(s)
- Correct grade GL‑4 manual transmission gear oil (amount per manual)
- Safety glasses
- Final note (brief)
- This procedure is general for Toyota manual gearboxes paired with the 5S‑FE engines. Exact plug locations, socket sizes, torque specs, and fluid capacity vary by model year and trans variant — confirm the vehicle’s service manual or manufacturer spec sheet when possible. If you are uncomfortable at any step, have a professional do the job.
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