The 5S-FE ended up being available in a few variants each getting recognized by valve address design. Initial generation, introduced into the 1990--92 Celica GT/GT-S and MR2, had a power score of 130 hp and 144 lbs-ft/torque. The 2nd generation had been launched in 1993 using the fifth generation (ST184) Celica, and continued through the 6th generation (ST204) Celica. The second generation was also utilized in the MR2 (SW21) and Camry/Scepter (XV10) show and had a power production of 135 hp and 145 lbs-ft/torque. They have a little less hostile cams, no cool start injector, a knock sensor, and more aggressive tuning to give it somewhat most energy. In states that had adopted California emission guidelines the 5S-FE is ranked at 130 hp and 145 lbs-ft/torque due mainly to emission products familiar with meet those emission laws. The third generation had been the final 5S-FE engine produced and was found in the 1997--01 Camry XV20 and 1999--01 Camry Solara; but from 1996 onward, the engine gotten a crank direction sensor rather than a cam direction sensor for a smoother idle. From 1997 to 1999 the engine produced 133 hp at 5,200 rpm and 147 lbs-ft/torque at 4,400 rpm. From 2000 to 2001, the motor gotten moderate modifications to improve power output to 136 hp at 5,200 rpm and 150 lbs-ft/torque at 4,400 rpm. The 5S-FE is replaced in all programs because of the 2.4 L 2AZ-FE.
Ca specification 1994-1996 5S-FEs into the Celica and Camry made use of air-assisted, 250 cc injectors, and sequential gas injections for reduced emissions over the grouped (2+2) firing system. The 1994-1995 MR2 failed to obtain this changes, nor performed Camrys/Celicas in national emissions shows.
Camry 5S-FEs have a counter-rotating stability shaft assembly to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness. They decrease the 2nd order vibrations typical to 4-cylinder motors by spinning at twice as much crankshaft speed. The 1994-1999 Celica and 1991-1995 MR2 5S-FEs shortage these balance shafts, so any 5S-FE motor with balance shafts likely came from a Camry.
In 1997, when it comes to fourth generation Camry, the 5S-FE had been updated the past time. This system received a primary ignition program with exterior camshaft and crankshaft detectors. This method put a waste-spark build, and also the coils have integrated igniters. The engine couldn't use a typical coil-on-plug build, but instead two coil+igniter assemblies attached near cylinder four, and offered spark via regular high-tension cords (spark plug cables). This modification implies that the 1997-01 Camry 5S-FE has actually a blocked off provider mounting opening and may be applied with older 5S-FEs without swapping cylinder minds.
The 1997-99 Camry 5S-FE carried on aided by the air-assisted, 250 cc injectors. The Camry 5S-FE additionally have a factory 4-to-1 fatigue build - in government type, it had no pre-catalyst, although the California version performed replace the collector build of the Federal variation with a warm-up pre-catalyst for decreased cool start emissions.
For 2000 Toyota eliminated the air-assisted injectors and moved to superfine atomization (~50 micrometers), 12-hole, 235 cc injectors made by Denso. These are generally of another type of design, and required a modification of the cylinder mind casting.
For 2001 Toyota begun installing factory MLS (multi-layer metal) mind gaskets alongside steel gaskets layered with Viton to engines, such as the 5S-FE. MLS head gaskets require cylinder head and cylinder block resurfacing on older motors to make certain correct sealing; consequently, the MLS head gasket didn't supersede the old composite mind gasket.
The 1994-99 Celica 5S-FE had not been up-to-date with your changes, and proceeded to utilize a supplier plus the old electronic control system and injectors. Any used engine noted as a 1997-01 Camry 5S-FE with a distributor are a Celica 5S-FE or elderly Camry 5S-FE.
Toyota's 5S-FE ended up being a 2.2-litre four-cylinder inline petrol engine. The 5S-FE had been a non-interference engine and provided numerous qualities aided by the 3S-FE, but had been distinguished by their increasing bore and swing. Crucial features of the 5S-FE engine integrate its cast-iron block, aluminum alloy cylinder mind, dual overhead camshafts and 9.5:1 compression.
During their production, the 5S-FE underwent two distinct news, occasionally referred to as the next and third 'generations' or 'revisions'
Expense camshaft, generally abbreviated to OHC, was a valvetrain setup which puts the camshaft of an internal burning engine of the reciprocating type within the cylinder minds ("above" the pistons and combustion chambers) and pushes the valves or lifters in an even more direct way weighed against expense valves (OHV) and pushrods.
Compared with OHV pushrod systems with the same few valves, the reciprocating the different parts of the OHC program is a lot fewer and have a diminished overall size. Although system that drives the camshafts is more complicated, many system providers take that included difficulty as a trade-off for best system overall performance and better design versatility. The basic reason for the OHC valvetrain is it offers a rise in the engine's power to trade induction and fatigue gases (this exchange is sometimes generally "engine breathing"). Another results advantage is gained as a consequence of the greater optimised interface configurations authorized with expense camshaft design. Without intrusive pushrods, the expense camshaft cylinder mind design may use straighter harbors of most advantageous cross-section and size. The OHC design enables greater engine speeds than similar cam-in-block design, as a consequence of creating reduced valvetrain size. The higher motor rates therefore let increases energy production for certain torque production.
Disadvantages regarding the OHC design include the difficulty for the camshaft drive, the need to re-time the drive system every time the cylinder head is removed, plus the ease of access of tappet modification if required. In early in the day OHC systems, like inter-war Morrises and Wolseleys, oils leakages within the lubrication systems were in addition a problem.
Solitary expense camshaft
A Honda D15A3 series solitary overhead camshaft cylinder mind from a 1987 Honda CRX 4 cylinder 12 valve.
Single expense camshaft (SOHC) is a design by which one camshaft is placed within the cylinder head. In an inline motor, what this means is discover one camshaft inside head, while in a system with over one cylinder head, particularly a V engine or a horizontally-opposed system (boxer; level engine) -- there are two camshafts, one per cylinder bank.
Into the SOHC design, the camshaft runs the valves right, traditionally via a container tappet; or via an intermediary rocker supply. SOHC cylinder minds are less expensive to produce than dual overhead camshaft (DOHC) cylinder heads. Timing buckle replacement may be easier since there are a lot fewer camshaft drive sprockets that have to be lined up throughout the substitution procedure.
SOHC design provide paid off complexity compared with overhead valve styles when utilized for multivalve cylinder minds, which each cylinder features over two valves. An example of an SOHC build using shim and container valve modification was the engine put in in the Hillman Imp (four-cylinder, eight valve), a little, early-1960s two-door saloon vehicles (sedan) with a rear-mounted aluminium-alloy engine in line with the Coventry orgasm FWMA battle machines. Exhaust and inlet manifolds are both on a single side of the system block (therefore not a crossflow cylinder mind design). This did, however, provide exceptional usage of the spark plugs.
In the early 1980s, Toyota and Volkswagen team also made use of a right actuated SOHC synchronous device setup with two valves for every single cylinder. The Toyota system made use of hydraulic tappets. The Volkswagen program used container tappets with shims for valve-clearance modification.
a double expense camshaft (DOHC) valvetrain layout are characterised by two camshafts present in the cylinder head, one running the intake valves in addition to other one operating the fatigue valves. This build decreases valvetrain inertia above is the case with an SOHC motor, since the rocker arms tend to be lower in dimensions or eradicated. A DOHC build permits a wider angle between intake and exhaust valves than in SOHC motors. This can offer a less restricted airflow at higher system rates. DOHC with a multivalve build also enables the optimum keeping the spark plug, which in turn gets better burning effectiveness. Engines creating more than one lender of cylinders (e.g. V6, V8 -- in which two-cylinder financial institutions satisfy to create a "V") with two camshafts overall stay SOHC and "double cam" unless each cylinder lender has actually two camshafts; the latter were DOHC, and they are often known as "quad cam".
Although the term "double cam" is generally always reference DOHC machines, it's imprecise, because it includes designs with two block-mounted camshafts. For example the Harley-Davidson Twin Cam system, Riley automobile engines from 1926 towards the mid 1950s, Triumph bike parallel-twins from 1930s on 1980s, and Indian Chief and Scout V-twins from 1920 to your 1950s.
The terminology "multivalve" and "DOHC" never reference exactly the same thing: not absolutely all multivalve engines were DOHC rather than all DOHC motors are multivalve. Samples of DOHC engines with two valves per cylinder are the Alfa Romeo Twin Cam system, the Jaguar XK6 engine plus the Lotus Ford Twin Cam engine. Most recent DOHC motors is multivalve, with between three and five valves per cylinder.
a dual overhead camshaft (DOHC) valvetrain design was characterised by two camshafts operating inside the cylinder mind, one operating the intake valves therefore the other one running the fatigue valves. This build decrease valvetrain inertia significantly more than is the case with an SOHC engine, since the rocker arms are lower in dimensions or eradicated. A DOHC build permits a wider perspective between consumption and fatigue valves than in SOHC machines. This will provide a less restricted airflow at greater system speeds. DOHC with a multivalve build in addition permits the optimum keeping the spark plug, which in turn improves burning efficiency. Engines creating more than one lender of cylinders (e.g. V6, V8 -- in which two cylinder banks fulfill to make a "V") with two camshafts overall remain SOHC and "double cam" unless each cylinder bank features two camshafts; the latter is DOHC, and generally known as "quad cam".
Even though the term "double cam" is often accustomed relate to DOHC motors, it's imprecise, since it include designs with two block-mounted camshafts. For example the Harley-Davidson Twin Cam motor, Riley vehicle motors from 1926 towards the middle 1950s, victory bike parallel-twins from 1930s into the 1980s, and Indian main and Scout V-twins from 1920 into 1950s.
The terms "multivalve" and "DOHC" don't reference the same thing: not totally all multivalve motors are DOHC and never all DOHC machines is multivalve. Types of DOHC motors with two valves per cylinder include the Alfa Romeo Twin Cam system, the Jaguar XK6 engine additionally the Lotus Ford Twin Cam system. Latest DOHC motors is multivalve, with between three and five valves per cylinder.
Toyota 5S Engine | Turbo, upgrades, engine oil, etc.
Toyota 5S-FE engine reliability, problems and repair. The engine Toyota 5S was produced in 1990. The 3S engine was taken as a model. Its cylinder diameter was enlarged to 87.1 mm and a brand new crankshaft with a 90.9 mm piston stroke was mounted.
Toyota 5SFE 2.2 Long Block Crate Engine Sale
Our Toyota 5S-FE 2.2 liter Long Block Crate Engine is on sale. This 2.2 engine was introduced to the market in 1992 and became most popular for its use in the Toyota Camry and Solara models. Earlier generation motors we're prone to an excess of noise and vibration.
How to replace timing belt Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine
How to replace timing belt Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine. Years 1990 to 2002.
Toyota S engine - Wikipedia
The 1994-99 Celica 5S-FE was not updated with these changes, and continued to use a distributor and the older electronic control system and injectors. Any used engine marked as a 1997-01 Camry 5S-FE with a distributor is a Celica 5S-FE or older Camry 5S-FE. [citation needed] The 5S-FE has a 9.5:1 compression ratio.
5SFE Engine | eBay
The engine 5S-FE is used JDM Engine imported directly from Japan that is used in TOYOTA CAMRY (1997 to 2001). It is 2.2L 4 cylinder Twin cam engine. It has estimated below 65000 Mileage which will def...
5sfe engine | eBay
4 product ratings - Toyota Celica Convertible Engine Motor ST183 OEM 5S-FE New Timing Belt 9.99 Trending at 3.00 Trending price is based on prices over last 90 days.
5S-FE Toyota engine - AustralianCar.Reviews
Toyota's 5S-FE was a 2.2-litre four-cylinder inline petrol engine. The 5S-FE was a non-interference engine and shared many attributes with the 3S-FE, but was distinguished by its increased bore and stroke.
Engine 5SÃFE - Wiring Diagrams - auto-manual.com
The Engine Control System broadly consists of the sensors, Engine Control Module (ECM) and actuators. The ECM receives signals from various sensors, judges the operating conditions and determines the optimum injection duration, timing, ignition timing and idle speed.
1) Purpose and symptom theory (brief)
- Valve seats are the hardened ring in the cylinder head that the valve face seals against. A good seat provides a concentric, correct-angle contact that (a) seals combustion, (b) conducts heat from the valve into the head, and (c) supports the valve under impact and thermal load.
- Faults (low compression, misfire on one cylinder, valve burning, loss of power, high blow-by) occur when the valve-to-seat contact is uneven, pitted, recessed or widened: gases leak past, hot gases locally overheat the valve or seat, and sealing/heat-transfer is compromised. The repair restores proper geometry and surface finish so the valve re-seals and heat flows correctly.
2) Tools/equipment and safety (very short)
- Valve spring compressor, valve keeper tool, valve-seat cutter/reamer set with pilots or a powered valve-seat grinder and correct cutters/stones, dial indicator (for concentricity/runout), feeler gauges, Prussian blue or marking compound, micrometer or calipers, shop air, cleaning supplies, torque wrench.
- Safety: eye protection, remove spark plugs/battery, contain coolant, avoid inhaling grinding dust.
3) Overall ordered procedure (with theory at each step)
1. Verify fault
- Do a compression and/or leak-down test to confirm which cylinders leak and estimate leak path (valve vs head gasket). Theory: leak-down localizes if the valve is the sealing surface problem.
2. Strip to cylinder head and remove head
- Drain coolant, remove intake/exhaust manifolds, timing belt/chain components as required, remove head per factory torque sequence. Keep parts labeled. Theory: you must access the valves and seats with the head off the engine for accurate machining and inspection.
3. Remove valves, springs, seals
- Use a valve spring compressor, catch keepers, remove springs/retainers, then withdraw valves. Replace valve stem seals if you’re reassembling. Theory: you need the unrestricted valve and a guide pilot to machine seats correctly.
4. Inspect components and measure
- Inspect valve faces for pitting, burning, mushrooming; inspect seats for pitting, grooves, cracking. Measure valve stem diameter and valve-guide clearance; check head for warpage/cracks. Theory: excessive guide clearance or badly damaged valves/heads means seat cutting alone won’t solve the leak—guides or valves/inserts may need replacement.
5. Decide repair method (theory)
- Minor surface roughness/pitting → lapping may suffice (hand-lap).
- Moderate damage or out-of-square seats → seat cutter/stone reface (single-angle or multi-angle cut).
- Deeply burned seats or damaged insert → seat replacement (press-in insert) or head replacement.
Theory: lapping only reshapes soft surface microfinish and corrects very small mismatches. Cutting creates proper geometry and concentricity; insert replacement restores material and geometry when original seat is ruined.
6. Prepare for cutting: pilot and concentricity
- Clean seat bores and valve guides. Install a pilot in the guide (usually the valve itself or a dedicated pilot) and check runout with a dial indicator if possible. Correct seating requires the cutter to be guided concentrically by the valve/guide. Theory: concentric cutting ensures the seat and valve face share the same axis—otherwise the contact will be eccentric and leak.
7. Reface/cut the seat (typical sequence)
- Use a series of cutters/stones: rough/increase diameter to remove damage, then finish with the seat-angle cutter. Typical practice uses a 45° seating angle as the primary sealing surface; many shops use a multi-angle job (top/back cut, 45° seat, bottom/lead) to improve flow and sealing.
- Cut until there is a uniform 360° contact ring on the valve face when checked with marking compound. Control seat width: intake seats are usually wider than exhaust (typical target ranges: intake ~1.5–2.0 mm, exhaust ~1.0–1.5 mm). Theory: seat width influences heat transfer and durability—exhaust seats narrower to reduce heat into the head and concentrate cooling through the valve; intake can be wider to better distribute impact and seal.
8. Dress valve faces
- Grind the valve face to match the new seat angle and width. Use a valve grinder or file to establish the correct face geometry, then verify full-contact with marking dye. Theory: valve face must match the seat angle exactly; mismatched angles produce line contact or leakage.
9. Verify contact pattern and final finish
- Apply Prussian blue or marking compound to the seat, insert the valve, rotate gently, then remove and inspect the contact ring. Adjust by light cutting until the ring is uniform and centered. Finish with a fine stone or lap (if minimal correction remains) to the required surface finish. Theory: this confirms uniform sealing around the circumference and correct axial position of the contact ring.
10. Clean everything thoroughly
- Remove all grit, metal chips, and stone dust from ports, oil passages, and around guides. Blow out passages and clean magnetically. Theory: leftover abrasive will score valve stems, guides, and quickly ruin seals.
11. Reassembly: valves, seals, springs, and head reinstallation
- Fit new valve stem seals, install valves, springs and keepers, measure spring heights and free lengths and replace springs if out-of-spec, reinstall head with new gasket and torque to spec, reinstall timing and ancillaries. Set valve lash or shim per Toyota spec. Theory: correct spring load and clearance ensure the valve closes fully and stays seated at RPM; incorrect torque or clearance ruins the seat sealing.
12. Test and verify
- Run compression and/or leak-down tests again; run engine to operating temperature and recheck. Look for oil/coolant leakage and abnormal combustion. Theory: validation proves that sealing and heat-transfer are restored; operating temperature will reveal any marginal seats that leak or allow valve burning.
4) How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Cutting/lapping restores correct seat geometry (angle, width, concentricity) so the valve face bears evenly 360°. Even contact stops gas leakage (restores compression) and spreads thermal load so heat moves from valve into the head. That prevents localized overheating/burning of valve or seat and restores engine efficiency. Replacing inserts restores lost material/hardened surface so the seat can withstand thermal/mechanical loads.
5) Quick practical tips (concise)
- Use the valve stem or a proper pilot for concentric cutting.
- Remove minimal material—overcutting can recess the seat.
- Replace valves or guides that show heavy wear.
- After reassembly, re-torque head after a warm-up and cooling cycle if the manufacturer requires it.
That’s the ordered, theory-focused overview of re-seating the valves/seats on a Toyota 5S‑FE and how the work corrects the underlying faults.
rteeqp73
- Purpose and quick summary
- Replace or service the crankshaft main bearings on a Toyota 5S‑FE (bearings that support the crankshaft) to restore correct oil clearances, remove noise/knock, stop oil pressure loss and prevent catastrophic engine failure.
- This is advanced engine work. It requires engine disassembly, precision measurement, and correct torque/sequence. Follow a Toyota factory service manual (FSM) torque specs and sequences.
- Safety and general prep
- Disconnect battery, drain engine oil and coolant.
- Use quality jack stands on a flat surface if the car stays on the ground; never work on a car supported only by a jack.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and keep work area clean and well lit.
- Label and bag bolts/parts to avoid assembly errors.
- Basic skill/knowledge checklist (if you are a complete beginner)
- Comfortable removing engine accessories, transmission or supporting the engine, and removing oil pan/timing cover.
- Comfortable using torque wrench and can read a service manual.
- Willing to use measuring tools (plastigauge, micrometer/dial bore gauge) and interpret results.
- Tools (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric deep and shallow sockets, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives)
- Use for removing bolts and nuts. Match socket size to fastener, avoid rounding heads. Keep extensions and universal joints for awkward angles.
- Ratchets and breaker bar
- Ratchets for normal fastener removal/installation. Breaker bar for stubborn bolts; apply steady force, not sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, 3/8" and/or 1/2" drive covering required torque range)
- Set to specified Nm/lb·ft and tighten to required torque. Use for main cap bolts, head bolts, etc. Follow torque sequence and steps (incremental torquing).
- Engine hoist (cherry picker) and engine stand
- Required if you remove the engine from the car (recommended). Hoist lifts the engine safely; engine stand holds the engine for access to the oil pan and crank. Use rated lifting chains and correct lift points.
- Floor jack and quality jack stands
- If working with engine in car, use a sturdy jack and stands to support the vehicle and/or support engine from below. Do not rely on the jack alone.
- Transmission jack or second person and support bar
- If removing transmission to drop the oil pan or separate engine/transmission, use a transmission jack or secure the trans to avoid falling.
- Screwdrivers and pry bars
- For removing covers, gaskets, and prying parts gently. Use plastic or brass pry tools where possible to avoid damage.
- Oil drain pan and sealant scraper
- Catch fluids; scrape residues to clean mating surfaces carefully.
- Gasket scrapers and razor blades
- Remove old gasket material without gouging surfaces.
- Seal puller or hook tool
- Remove the rear main seal and other seals without damaging the crank surface or housing.
- Hammer and soft mallet (rubber or dead blow)
- Tap parts into place gently. Avoid steel hammer blows on aluminum.
- Feeler gauge set
- Not usually used for mains but useful for related clearances.
- Plastigauge (multiple widths)
- Thin soft plastic strip used to measure oil clearance between bearing and crank journal. Place on journal, install cap to torque, remove, and measure width flattened against scale.
- Micrometer (outside micrometer, 0–1" and higher range)
- Measure crankshaft journal diameter accurately. Use consistent technique and clean surfaces.
- Dial bore gauge or telescoping gauge + inside micrometer
- Measure bearing bore inside the main caps/engine block to calculate clearance. Dial bore gauge gives most accurate results.
- Straightedge and feeler or alignment tools
- Check for block/crank distortions if needed.
- Torque angle gauge (if bolts are torque‑to‑angle)
- Measures added rotation angle required by torque‑to‑yield bolts.
- Bearing installer/driver (or soft wood blocks)
- Helps seat bearings without damage. Usually main bearings press into caps/housings and don't require a special driver, but use a gentle even method.
- Clean lint‑free rags, solvent, compressed air
- Cleanliness is critical; dirt will destroy bearings quickly.
- New engine oil (assembly lube and refill oil) and oil filter
- Use assembly lube on bearings during assembly; change to fresh oil after startup.
- Workshop manual (Toyota FSM) for 5S‑FE
- Contains torque specs, sequences, clearances and service limits—essential.
- Extra tools often required and why
- Engine hoist and engine stand
- Why: full access to oil pan, caps and crank is far easier and safer off the car. In‑car work may be possible but is much harder and riskier.
- Dial bore gauge / outside micrometer
- Why: accurate measurement of journal and bearing bores is required to determine correct bearing size/clearance. Plastigauge alone gives clearance but not journal wear or which undersize bearing to use.
- Crankshaft polishing/grinding service or bench grinder (NOT DIY without experience)
- Why: if crank journals are scored or worn beyond spec, the crank must be reground to an undersize and matching undersize bearings fitted, or be replaced.
- New main cap bolts (if bolts are torque‑to‑yield or show stretch)
- Why: torque‑to‑yield bolts cannot be reliably reused; they may fail if reused.
- Engine lift brackets or OEM lifting eye hardware
- Why: safe lifting alignment.
- Parts that must or usually should be replaced and why
- Main bearing set (complete set)
- Why: worn bearings cause low oil pressure and knock. Replace with correct OEM or high‑quality aftermarket set matched to journal sizes.
- Thrust bearings (center/main thrust)
- Why: control axial crank movement. If worn, causes endplay and noise; always inspect and typically replace when doing mains.
- Rear main seal
- Why: seal is exposed when removing the crank and is cheap; replace to prevent oil leaks.
- Oil pump gasket and possibly oil pump if damaged
- Why: prolonged bearing wear can damage the pump; replacing pump or gasket ensures correct oil pressure.
- Main cap bolts (conditional)
- Why: if OEM bolts are torque‑to‑yield or show stretch/corrosion; check FSM. Replace if specified.
- Full gasket set (oil pan gasket, front cover gasket, etc.)
- Why: removed components require new gaskets to prevent leaks.
- Crankshaft (conditional)
- Why: if journals are scored beyond service limits and cannot be rebabbitted/undersized properly, the crank must be machined by a machine shop to undersize journals or replaced.
- Step overview (high level, bullet sequence for the job flow)
- Remove ancillary components: intake, exhaust manifolds (if needed for access), alternator, AC, power steering, belts, pulleys and wiring that obstruct removal.
- Decide engine in‑car or drop engine: remove transmission or support and remove crossmember as needed. Lift engine out with hoist if chosen; mount on engine stand.
- Remove timing cover, timing belt/chain, cam components as required to free crank pulley and front cover.
- Drain oil, remove oil pan and oil pickup; remove oil pump if it blocks main cap access.
- Remove main bearing caps in the proper order; keep caps matched to position and orientation (mark them).
- Inspect crank journals visually for scoring, discoloration, or pitting.
- Measure crank journal diameters with micrometer and main bore diameters with dial bore gauge or measure clearances using plastigauge to determine current clearance.
- Decide replacement size: if journals within spec, standard bearings fit; if journals worn, determine required undersize bearing dimension or have crank reground.
- Install new bearings into block and caps, apply assembly lube to bearing surfaces.
- Carefully install crank (if removed) ensuring not to damage bearings, or reinstall caps over crank with bearings in place.
- Torque main cap bolts in FSM specified sequence and steps with torque wrench. If bolts are torque‑to‑yield, replace them and use correct angle procedure.
- Recheck bearing clearance with plastigauge or dial bore gauge after torquing to confirm correct clearance.
- Check thrust clearance (axial endplay) with dial indicator and correct as necessary (replace thrust bearing if out of spec).
- Reinstall oil pump, oil pickup, new oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front cover and timing components. Replace any removed seals/gaskets.
- Reinstall accessories, transmission or remount engine, refill fluids and prime oiling system (pre‑lubricate bearings or crank with assembly lube and spin oil pump to build pressure before initial start).
- Start engine briefly, check for leaks, check oil pressure, and re‑torque bolts if FSM requires recheck.
- How to use key measurement/assembly tools (short how‑to)
- Plastigauge
- Place a short strip along journal or bearing surface, install and torque cap to spec, remove cap without rotating crank, measure the flattened strip against plastigauge scale to read clearance.
- Micrometer
- Clean journal, zero micrometer, take multiple measurements around journal and average. Read to 0.01 mm (0.0001 in) accuracy.
- Dial bore gauge
- Calibrate on a reference ring or use an outside micrometer to set, then measure inside bearing bores to get bore size and roundness.
- Torque wrench
- Set to the required value, snug bolt in progressive sequence in steps, then final torque. Use proper drive size and do not exceed torque wrench capacity. For angle torques, use torque angle gauge after initial torque steps.
- Engine hoist
- Attach chains to proper lift points, lift slowly, keep engine balanced, and use an assistant to guide clearances.
- How to decide whether crank journals need machining or full crank replacement
- If journal measurements vs service limits show wear beyond allowable tolerance, crank must be reground to next undersize and matching undersize bearings used.
- If journals have deep scoring, pitting or taper beyond what regrinding can fix, replace crankshaft.
- If only light scoring/polishing is needed, a crank polish may suffice, but a machine shop inspection is recommended.
- Common pitfalls and cautions
- Never reuse bearings with visible wear or if they’re deformed.
- Do not reuse torque‑to‑yield bolts unless FSM explicitly allows reuse.
- Cleanliness: any dirt in bearings reduces life drastically.
- Incorrect clearances will cause bearing failure—measure and confirm.
- Rushing or skipping measurement/torque steps risks catastrophic engine failure.
- Final items to buy (minimum parts list)
- Full main bearing kit (OEM or high‑quality aftermarket) including thrust bearings
- Rear main seal
- Oil pan gasket and related seals/gaskets
- Oil filter and fresh oil
- New main cap bolts (if FSM requires/recommends or bolts show damage)
- Optional: new oil pump (if suspicious), new connecting rod bearings if removed/inspected
- If you cannot do measurements or machining
- Take crankshaft and block to a reputable engine machine shop for measurement, grinding and balancing. They will recommend undersize bearings or crank replacement and recondition crank to spec.
- Final checks after assembly
- Prime oil system and check oil pressure before full idle.
- Monitor for leaks, abnormal noises, and recheck oil level. Perform road test and recheck torque connections per FSM.
- Key reference requirement
- Use the Toyota 5S‑FE factory service manual for exact torque specs, bolt sequences, allowable clearances, and whether any bolts are torque‑to‑yield. Do not attempt without FSM data.
- Bottom line
- Main bearing service is a precision job requiring measurement tools and often engine removal. Replace bearings, seals and any bolts as FSM dictates. If journals are out of spec, machining or crank replacement is required. Follow procedures, torque specs and cleanliness strictly to avoid engine failure.
rteeqp73
Safety first (read this): wear eye protection and gloves, work on a level surface, use jack stands if lifting the car, and always disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter or electrical system. Battery acid and high currents can cause burns, sparks, or a fire. Do not bench-test a starter in a confined space — there can be sparks and flying debris.
Quick overview (why this repair): the starter motor is what spins the engine to start it. When the starter fails you get no-crank, slow-crank, or intermittent cranking. Typical causes: worn brushes or commutator, failed solenoid, seized drive (Bendix/overrunning clutch), poor electrical connections, or heat-damaged windings. Repairing the starter restores reliable cranking and avoids being stranded.
How the starter system works — plain-language theory and analogy
- Analogy: think of the starter like an electric hand-drill that must also push a small gear into the engine’s big ring gear before it spins. The starter has (A) a powerful electric motor (armature + field coils) that provides torque, and (B) a solenoid/drive that both closes the heavy current circuit and physically pushes the small pinion into the flywheel ring gear. Once engaged, the motor spins the engine; when the engine fires and exceeds starter speed, the one-way clutch (overrunning clutch/Bendix) lets the starter disengage without damage.
- Electrical path: battery → heavy positive cable → starter solenoid → power lug on starter motor → motor windings → starter housing to chassis ground → back to battery negative.
- Mechanical engagement: small pinion (with an overrunning clutch) sits on a splined shaft. The solenoid’s plunger pushes the pinion forward onto the flywheel ring gear and connects high current. The overrunning clutch allows the pinion to be driven by the engine without driving back into the starter.
- The solenoid also acts as a high-current relay; the ignition switch only energizes the small solenoid coil, not the starter’s main current.
Main starter components (what each part is and what it does)
- Housing/Frame (yoke): holds the field coils or permanent magnets and supports the assembly.
- Field coils or permanent magnet assembly: creates the stationary magnetic field around the armature.
- Armature: the rotating core with windings that turns when current flows through the commutator bars.
- Commutator: segmented copper ring on the armature where carbon brushes contact to supply current to the armature windings.
- Brushes and brush springs: carbon contacts that press on the commutator and carry current into the armature. They wear over time.
- End cap/bearings or bushings: support the armature shaft and wear; bushings can be replaced if grooved.
- Drive assembly (Bendix or overrunning clutch & pinion): the small gear that meshes with the engine ring gear; the one-way clutch prevents damage when engine overruns the starter.
- Solenoid (mounted on starter): contains a plunger and coil. It pushes the drive forward and closes the heavy-current contacts.
- Power terminal and small trigger terminal: heavy lug for battery cable and smaller terminal for ignition feed ("S" terminal).
- Return spring, thrust washers, seals, and retaining circlips: small parts that keep tolerances and alignment.
What can go wrong (symptoms and root causes)
- No crank, no click: battery dead/low, bad connection at battery or starter, blown starter solenoid, bad ignition switch, corroded ground.
- Click but no crank: solenoid clicks but contacts fail to close (bad solenoid), insufficient battery voltage under load, melted cable lug, poor ground, or seized pinion.
- Slow cranking: weak battery, bad battery cables, bad ground, high-resistance connections, worn brushes, damaged armature windings.
- Intermittent cranking: worn brushes, loose wiring, heat-induced failure (starter works when cold, fails when hot).
- Grinding noise: pinion not fully engaging or damaged ring gear/pinion teeth.
- Free-spinning starter (motor runs but engine doesn't turn): drive didn’t engage (failed solenoid plunger or broken shift lever).
- Starter smokes or draws too much current: shorted windings or mechanical binding.
Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Socket set (including deep 10–19 mm sockets depending on battery terminals and starter bolts)
- Ratchet and extensions, swivel adapter
- Wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, torque wrench (recommended)
- Jack and jack stands or ramps
- Battery terminal puller or wrench
- Multimeter (12 V DC, continuity, and voltage-drop measurements)
- Wire brush, contact cleaner, emery cloth (very fine) or commutator stone
- Replacement brushes, springs, bushings, seals, or entire starter assembly (parts to match your model)
- Grease (moly or light synthetic on splines; avoid grease on commutator or brushes)
- Circlip pliers, hammer, punch (for disassembly)
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection
Diagnosis on the vehicle (step-by-step)
1. Verify battery state: multimeter at battery with ignition OFF should read ~12.6 V at full charge. Under cranking, voltage should not drop below ~9.6 V (approx); if it does, suspect battery or cables.
2. Check terminals: clean and tighten battery terminals and the heavy positive cable at the starter. Corrosion can cause high resistance.
3. Attempt to start and listen:
- No sound: likely no power to starter (check fuses, ignition switch, neutral safety/clutch switch, large cable).
- Single click: solenoid engages but motor not turning (bad starter motor or cold battery).
- Rapid clicking: very low battery or poor battery connections.
- Grinding: drive teeth not meshing.
4. Voltage drop test while cranking:
- Measure voltage between battery negative and starter body (ground drop) and between battery positive and starter power terminal (positive drop). Excessive voltage drop (>0.5–0.7 V on either) means bad connection/cable.
5. Bench test only after removal: apply 12 V to the big battery terminal and small trigger terminal with jumper leads to see if the starter spins and if the pinion extends. Use caution: secure starter in a vise, not by the housing edges that could be crushed.
Removal (general steps for Toyota 5S-FE; adapt to vehicle specifics)
- Preparation:
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery terminal first.
2. Raise vehicle safely and support with jack stands if starter is under the car (common on 5S-FE). Find and remove any belly pans or shields.
- Identify the starter: it bolts to the transmission bellhousing. You’ll typically see one heavy battery cable and one small ignition wire to the solenoid.
- Remove wires:
3. Loosen and remove the heavy battery cable from the starter power stud (remember orientation). Label or note wire positions.
4. Remove the small ignition/trigger wire (usually one nut or push connector).
- Unbolt starter:
5. Remove the starter mounting bolts (usually 2). Support the starter as you remove the last bolt to prevent it dropping.
6. Remove the starter from the bellhousing. It may be tight; wiggle and rotate slightly while pulling.
Disassembly and inspection (bench)
- Clean exterior grime so you can work cleanly.
- Remove solenoid first (if bolt-mounted) or as one assembly depending on model.
- Typical starter disassembly sequence:
1. Remove end cap/brush plate (retaining screws or rivets). Be careful—some brushes are riveted; if so, plan on replacement plate or brushes as a unit.
2. Note brush orientation and spring locations. Remove brushes and springs.
3. Remove armature by sliding out of housing. Watch for bearings/bushings and spacers; keep parts in order.
4. Remove field coils or magnet assembly if required.
5. Inspect commutator: look for grooving, burning, or pitting.
6. Inspect brushes: measure length. If short, cracked, or springs weak, replace.
7. Inspect armature windings: look for burning or shorts. Test with ohmmeter and/or growler (specialized tool) if available.
8. Check end-bushings or bearings: grooved or loose bushings cause misalignment and sparking.
9. Inspect pinion and overrunning clutch: pinion teeth should be clean, not rounded or missing. The freewheel should allow rotation one way and lock the other; if it slips, replace assembly.
10. Check solenoid plunger and contacts: the heavy contacts inside the solenoid should be solid, not eroded or pitted. The plunger must move freely.
11. Check all small parts (circlips, thrust washers, springs). Replace worn items.
What to repair/replace (practical guidance)
- Brushes: replace if worn, brittle, or below about half their original length (exact spec in service manual). Brush kits are common and inexpensive.
- Commutator: if lightly dirty, clean and true with very fine emery/clutch stone; if deeply grooved or pitted, replace armature or the whole starter.
- Bearings/bushings: replace if grooved or loose. A grooved bushing will accelerate armature wear.
- Solenoid: replace if it doesn’t actuate or contacts are fused/pitted beyond cleaning. Solenoid rebuild kits exist.
- Overrunning clutch/pinion: replace if teeth damaged or clutch slips.
- Entire starter: sometimes replacement is cheaper and faster; remanufactured starters are common.
- Wiring/connectors: replace corroded battery cable ends and repair poor grounds.
Cleaning, minor repairs, and reassembly tips
- Clean commutator with very fine emery or commutator stone front-to-back along the bars, not circularly across them. Remove dust with compressed air and wipe with solvent.
- If you file light ridges, then true the commutator on a lathe or by turning between centers for the best finish; otherwise, manual cleaning is a temporary fix.
- Replace brush springs if weak; weak springs reduce contact pressure and cause sparking.
- Lubricate the starter shaft splines with a small smear of molybdenum grease so the pinion slides freely — do not over-grease and keep grease off commutator and brushes.
- Use new gaskets/seals where required.
- Reassemble in reverse order. Ensure brushes move freely and seat on the commutator.
Bench-testing your rebuild
- Secure starter in a bench vise (protected jaws).
- Connect battery negative to starter housing and positive to the main lug. Ground must be good.
- Momentarily connect the small trigger terminal to positive to energize the solenoid.
- Observe: solenoid should click, pinion should push out, and armature should spin strongly and quietly. If it spins weakly or with excessive sparking, something’s wrong (brush contact, commutator, shorted windings).
- Listen for grinding or binding.
Reinstallation and testing on vehicle
1. Clean the mounting surface on the bellhousing to ensure a good ground and seating.
2. Slip the starter into position, align holes, and start bolts by hand. Torque mounting bolts to manufacturer specs (consult the Toyota 5S-FE service manual). If you don’t have the manual, snug and tighten evenly — don’t over-torque; typical starter bolt torque is in the mid-range of automotive bolt torques (consult manual for exact value).
3. Reattach the heavy battery cable to the main terminal and the small trigger wire to the solenoid.
4. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
5. Start the engine. Check for abnormal noises, slow crank, or heat. After a couple of starts, inspect for leaks or loose wiring.
Common troubleshooting after reinstall
- If still no crank: recheck battery, voltages at starter with key in START, check ground continuity to chassis and engine block.
- If intermittent: inspect switch connections and starter relay, clean and tighten all connections, and verify immobilizer or starter inhibit circuits are not faulted.
- If grinding: verify starter is fully seating; check pinion teeth and flywheel ring gear for damage.
Maintenance and prevention tips
- Keep battery terminals clean and tight; a failing battery/cable is the most common starter-related failure cause.
- Avoid repeated starter engagement; long cranking runs the starter hot and wears brushes.
- If engine oil or coolant leaks wet the starter, address leaks — contamination shortens starter life.
- If your car is high-mileage and starter has been repaired multiple times, consider replacement with a remanufactured or new unit.
Final notes and cautions
- If you’re not comfortable working under the car or around batteries, have a qualified technician do the repair — starters involve heavy current and can be dangerous.
- For torque specs, wire colors, and exact bolt locations for the Toyota 5S-FE in your vehicle year/model, consult the Toyota service manual for your specific car — that document has the precise values and diagrams.
- When in doubt, replacing the entire starter with a correct new or remanufactured unit is often faster and more reliable than partial repairs for a beginner.
That’s a compact but thorough walkthrough: how it works, what parts do, diagnostic checks, step‑by‑step removal, disassembly/inspection, repair choices, bench testing, and reinstallation. Follow safety rules and use the service manual for vehicle-specific specs.
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