The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002.
It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size
trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and
Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a
rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand,
although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is
sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they
are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was
marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the
Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in
Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the
United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.
Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March
5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in
Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on
production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information
came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in
Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but
GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end
of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for
vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other
carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.
The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North
United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In
belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock
system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not
available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor
redesign in late 2007.
Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally
introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank.
Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the
separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as
well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed
behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.
In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype
version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore
to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of
high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure
concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt
Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of
crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International
Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing
models any more than 2 concepts before.
In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are
opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax"
engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel
Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New
2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian
Twin.
Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck
marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors,
which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker
revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in
cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet
Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were
presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities
different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim
parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the
color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX
launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of
2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter
powerplant with 177-horses.
Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual
The Isuzu Rodeo is a compact SUV that was manufactured and sold by Isuzu Motors Limited, a Japanese automaker, in the United States, Canada, and Mexico between 1988 and 2004.
The first generation Isuzu Rodeo was introduced in 1988 as a 1989 model. It was available in both two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive configurations, and was equipped with a 2.6-liter four-cylinder engine or a 3.1-liter V6 engine. The Rodeo was designed to be a rugged and versatile vehicle, with the capability to handle a variety of on- and off-road driving conditions.
In 1991, the second generation of Rodeo was introduced, which featured a redesigned exterior and new features such as anti-lock brakes and a driver's side airbag. The Rodeo was available in four-wheel drive and two-wheel drive configurations and was equipped with a 2.6-liter four-cylinder engine or a 3.2-liter V6 engine.
In 1998, the third and final generation of the Rodeo was introduced. The Rodeo was available in two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive configurations, with a choice of a 2.2-liter four-cylinder engine or a 3.2-liter V6 engine. The Rodeo was available in a variety of trim levels, including the S, LS, and LS Sport.
The Isuzu Rodeo was well-regarded for its durability, reliability, and off-road capabilities. It also developed a reputation for being a practical and affordable alternative to other compact SUVs on the market. However, due to various reasons like lack of sales, emissions regulations, and changing consumer preferences, the Rodeo was discontinued in 2004 and did not receive any direct replacement.
Quick summary
- The drive/serpentine belt transfers rotational power from the crankshaft to accessories (alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, water pump on some engines). A worn or broken belt causes loss of those accessories and can strand you. Replacing it is a routine mechanical job if you follow safety steps and check related parts (tensioner, idlers).
- Below is a step‑by‑step guide oriented to a beginner mechanic, plus plain‑English descriptions of every component, the theory, common failure modes, and testing.
Important safety notes before you start
- Work only on a cool engine. Hot pulleys and coolant are dangerous.
- Engine off, key out. For safety you can disconnect the negative battery terminal if you’ll be wrenching near electrical connectors or if you need to remove an alternator bolt.
- Use quality jack stands if you raise the vehicle. Never rely on a jack alone.
- The belt tensioner is spring‑loaded — be aware when you release it, and keep fingers/tools clear of moving parts.
- If you are unsure at any point, stop and consult a factory service manual or a professional.
Components (what each part is and what it does)
- Crankshaft pulley (drive pulley, harmonic balancer): the belt’s driving wheel. Think of it as the engine’s foot pushing a bicycle chainring.
- Drive/serpentine belt: a single continuous rubber belt with ribs on the inner side that grips grooved pulleys. It transmits power by friction and by the ribs nestling in the pulley grooves (like a finger pressing into a grooved wheel).
- Tensioner (automatic spring-loaded): keeps the belt tight. Analogy: a spring-loaded hand keeping a rubber band taut. It uses a pulley on a spring arm that presses on the belt.
- Idler pulleys: smooth pulleys that guide the belt around obstacles and help maintain routing. Like guide rollers on a conveyor.
- Alternator pulley: driven by the belt; generates electric current to charge the battery and run electrical systems.
- Power steering pump pulley: drives the pump that assists steering.
- A/C compressor pulley: drives the air conditioning compressor when the clutch engages.
- Water pump pulley (if belt-driven on your engine): circulates coolant; if this is driven by the belt, a broken belt can cause overheating.
- Accessory brackets and pivot bolts: mounting hardware for alternator/pumps; on engines with manual tensioners you loosen/adjust these to set tension.
- Belt routing diagram: printed under the hood or in the manual; shows exact path the belt must follow.
What can go wrong / why replacement is needed (theory and failure modes)
- Wear and age: rubber hardens, ribs crack or chunk out, edges fray => loss of grip, noise, slipping.
- Glazing: shiny surface on ribs reduces friction; belt slips and squeals.
- Contamination: oil or coolant on the belt degrades rubber and causes slipping.
- Tensioner failure: weak spring or seized pivot — belt slack, vibration, chattering; if tensioner fails it often damages a new belt quickly.
- Idler/alternator/pump bearing failure: a seized or noisy pulley destroys the belt or causes misalignment.
- Misalignment: bent bracket or wrong pulley allows the belt to walk off or wear unevenly.
- Broken belt: sudden loss of charging, power steering, A/C, and possibly overheating if water pump is driven.
What you’ll need (tools and parts)
- Correct replacement belt(s) for your Isuzu Rodeo / KB TF 140 engine. Confirm part number by VIN/engine code or measure the old belt and check routing diagram.
- If applicable, new tensioner and/or idler pulley(s) if they show wear/noise. It’s common to replace the tensioner and at least the idler(s) at the same time.
- Socket set (metric), including long breaker bar or ratchet.
- Serpentine belt tool or a long-handled wrench/ratchet to rotate the tensioner.
- Screwdrivers, pry bar (small), torque wrench (recommended).
- Flashlight, gloves, rags, penetrating oil (for stuck bolts).
- Belt tension gauge or a ruler (for manual tensioning checks).
- Service manual or printout of belt routing and torque specs for your model (recommended).
Pre‑work: identify belt type and routing
1. Confirm whether your vehicle uses a single serpentine belt or multiple V‑belts. Most Rodeo/Rodeo‑based KB models use a single serpentine belt for accessories; some engine variants may have a separate belt for the AC or other accessories. Look for a routing diagram sticker under the hood — take a photo with your phone.
2. Inspect the old belt: look for cracks across ribs, missing rib material, glazing (shiny), oil contamination, or chunks missing. If any of these are present, replace the belt.
Step‑by‑step replacement (typical serpentine belt with automatic tensioner)
1. Park, chock wheels, set parking brake, engine cool.
2. Locate and study the belt routing diagram. If there’s none, draw one or take multiple clear photos from different angles before removal.
3. Identify the tensioner pulley. It’s usually a smooth pulley on a spring arm with a square hole or hex boss where you apply a wrench.
4. Fit the correct socket or belt‑tool onto the tensioner boss. Rotate the tensioner in the direction that relieves tension (this is usually clockwise or counterclockwise depending on engine — the spring compression direction). There’s usually an arrow on the tensioner or you can test gently — if you’re forcing the wrong way you’ll meet strong resistance.
5. While holding the tensioner back, slip the belt off one of the accessible pulleys (often the easiest is the alternator or idler). Slowly release the tensioner.
6. Remove the belt completely and compare new belt to old belt for length and rib profile.
7. Inspect all pulleys by hand:
- Spin each pulley; it should rotate smoothly and quietly. Any grinding, roughness, or wobble = replace pulley.
- Wiggle the pulley and accessory shafts for play. Excessive play = worn bearing or loose mount.
- Check alignment visually: pulleys should be parallel and their grooves in the same plane.
8. Replace tensioner/idlers if they show signs of wear/noise, or if the tensioner arm is weak or jammed.
9. Route the new belt according to the diagram. Route it around all pulleys except leave the easiest one (commonly the crank or alternator) for last.
10. Use the wrench/serpentine tool to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt over the last pulley. Slowly release the tensioner, letting it apply tension to the belt.
11. Verify the belt sits fully in the grooves of every pulley and is not twisted. Confirm routing again.
12. If your vehicle has a manual tensioner (the alternator or pump is used to tension the belt):
- Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts for the alternator/pump, move the device to create proper belt tension, then tighten bolts to spec.
- Typical tightness check: with the belt cold, press at midpoint between two pulleys with a moderate finger force — expect about 10–12 mm (roughly 1/2 inch) deflection for many systems. Check manual for exact spec.
13. Reconnect negative battery terminal if disconnected.
Testing and final checks
1. Start the engine and observe the belt at idle. Watch for:
- Proper tracking (centered in grooves).
- No oscillation/wobble.
- No squealing or chirping noises.
2. With the engine running, visually inspect each pulley for wobble and listen for bearing noise.
3. Turn the steering wheel to exercise the power steering pump and check for noise/poor assist.
4. Run the A/C (if applicable) to test compressor engagement.
5. After a short drive, recheck belt seating and tension. Retighten accessory bolts if any were loosened.
How to tell if the tensioner or idler needs replacing
- Tensioner arm sits at an extreme end of travel (collapsed) or doesn’t spring back fully.
- Persistent belt slip or chatter after new belt installed.
- Audible squeak that moves with rpm or changes under load.
- Visible shaft play or rough bearing noise when spun.
When to replace belt and related parts
- Replace belts per manufacturer schedule (often every 60–100k km or when cracked). Rubber ages, so also consider time (every 4–6 years typical).
- If replacing the belt, strongly consider replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys at the same time if they have significant mileage, because a failing tensioner will kill a new belt quickly.
Troubleshooting common problems after installation
- Squeal at cold start then disappears: possible belt glazing or light slip; check tensioner strength and belt cleanliness.
- Loud squeal all the time: misalignment, contaminated belt, or bad bearing in an accessory.
- Belt walks off pulley: misalignment or wrong belt size.
- Accessories not working (battery light, power steering rough): check routing (did belt miss a pulley), tension, and fuses/alternator.
Specific notes for Isuzu Rodeo / KB TF 140 owners (practical tips)
- Always confirm belt part number and routing for your engine variant. Different engines (eg. 4ZD1, 6VD1, etc.) have different accessory layouts.
- If the water pump is belt‑driven on your engine, a belt failure risks overheating quickly — don’t drive the vehicle if you suspect belt or tensioner problems.
- If you remove the alternator to get better access, mark belt routing and make sure the electrical connections are reinstalled tight.
Torque and specification caution
- Torque specs for accessory bolts and tensioner bolts are model‑specific. Tighten bolts snug and then to factory spec if available. If you don’t have exact numbers, tighten securely but do not overtighten — use a service manual or dealer info for exact torque values.
Final checklist before calling the job done
- Correct belt part and routing.
- Tensioner and idlers inspected/replaced if needed.
- Belt seated in all grooves, no twists.
- No unusual noises, pulleys spin smoothly.
- Accessories operate normally (charge light off, power steering normal, A/C engages).
- Reinspect after 50–100 miles (80–160 km) to ensure everything is still tight and tracking correctly.
That’s it — follow these steps, inspect pulleys and the tensioner carefully, and replace any worn components at the same time. Replacing the belt is straightforward, but a bad tensioner or pulley will ruin a new belt fast, so don’t skip that inspection.
rteeqp73
### PCV Valve Replacement on Isuzu Rodeo / Isuzu KB TF 140
#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (8mm and 10mm sockets)
2. **Ratchet Wrench**
3. **Extension Bar** (if needed)
4. **Pliers** (for hose clamps)
5. **Screwdriver** (flathead or Phillips, depending on hose clamps)
6. **Shop Towels or Rags**
7. **New PCV Valve**
8. **Gasket Maker** (if applicable)
#### Safety Precautions:
- Ensure the engine is cool before starting.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent any electrical shorts.
- Wear safety gloves and goggles to protect your hands and eyes.
#### Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. **Preparation**:
- Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
- Open the hood and secure it.
2. **Disconnect the Battery**:
- Use a wrench to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery to avoid any electrical issues.
3. **Locate the PCV Valve**:
- The PCV valve is typically located on the valve cover or near the intake manifold. Refer to the vehicle manual if necessary.
4. **Remove the PCV Hose**:
- Using pliers, carefully loosen the hose clamp securing the PCV hose to the valve.
- Slide the clamp back and gently pull the hose off the PCV valve.
5. **Remove the Old PCV Valve**:
- If the PCV valve is held in place by a grommet or a clip, carefully remove it using pliers or a screwdriver as needed.
- Pull the old PCV valve straight out. If it’s stuck, twist it gently as you pull.
6. **Install the New PCV Valve**:
- Take the new PCV valve and insert it into the valve cover or intake manifold. Ensure it fits snugly and is seated properly.
- If the old valve had any grommets or clips, replace them if necessary.
7. **Reconnect the PCV Hose**:
- Slide the hose back over the new PCV valve.
- Re-secure the hose with the clamp, ensuring it’s tight enough to prevent any vacuum leaks.
8. **Reattach the Battery**:
- Connect the negative battery terminal back and ensure it's secured.
9. **Check for Leaks**:
- Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Check for any unusual sounds or vacuum leaks around the PCV area.
10. **Final Inspection**:
- Ensure that all tools are removed from the engine bay and that everything is in its proper place.
#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Disconnecting the Battery**: Failing to disconnect can lead to electrical shorts during the process.
- **Forcing the PCV Valve**: If the valve does not come out easily, investigate for obstructions rather than forcing it.
- **Neglecting to Inspect Hoses**: Always check the PCV hose for cracks or wear. Replace if necessary.
- **Improper Installation**: Ensure the new PCV valve is seated properly to avoid leaks.
### Replacement Parts:
- **PCV Valve**: Always use a manufacturer-recommended part for best results.
- **Hoses and Clamps**: Replace any damaged components as needed.
By following these steps, you can successfully replace the PCV valve on an Isuzu Rodeo or Isuzu KB TF 140.
rteeqp73
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