The Ford Falcon (BA) is a full-sized car produced by Ford Australia from 2002 to 2005. It was the second significantly re-engineered iteration of the sixth generation of this Australian-made model, and also included the Ford Fairmont (BA)Ãthe luxury-oriented version of the Falcon. This platform also formed the basis of the Ford Territory sport utility vehicle. To address the relatively poor reception of the preceding AU series, the BA series was heavily updated for launch in September 2002Ãthe same time as its biggest rival, the Holden Commodore (VY). It featured a substantially revised and more conservative exterior styling, with every panel new except for the carry-over door skins. Interiors, too, were substantially revised, while mechanically, a new independent rear suspension setup was fitted to all sedan derivatives and the engine and transmissions received extensive upgrades. In October 2004, Ford introduced a Mark II update, bringing subtle styling and mechanical changes, and in October 2005, replaced the BA with the BF. In the final months of 2002, the BA model received the influential Wheels Car of the Year award, breaking a 36-year drought.The BA also won four consecutive Australia's Best Cars awards, spanning three years. The model's market share briefly topped that of its chief competitor, the Holden Commodore on two occasions, but have failed to match those of the record-breaking EL Falcon. Powerplants consisted of both straight-sixes and V8s, with the entry-level Barra 182 six-cylinder being a significant improvement over the AU Falcon's six. The base model engine contained substantial mechanical changes such as dual infinitely variable cam timing for a gain of 25 kW (34 hp) of power for a total of 182 kW (244 hp). The Barra 182 can also take advantage of higher octane fuels, where a small increase of torque can be achieved.The 156 kW (209 hp) LPG-only Barra E-Gas engine was offered as an option on lower specification models. A turbocharged variant of the Barra engine was introduced in a new XR6 Turbo model and produced 240 kW (320 hp) of power. A 5.4-litre V8 replaced the Windsor engine of the AU. The new V8 was a modified version of Ford's North American Modular V8 available in two variants: the Barra 220 generating 220 kW (300 hp) and a 260 kW (350 hp) Boss 260. The Boss 260 was known to make significantly more power than its nominal "260" name figure where figures closer to 288wHp or 290 kW (390Hp) at the engine were not unusual and 400 lb-ft. The new engine was smoother, more fuel efficient, and quieter than the engine it replaced. Two transmissions were available for the BAÃa four-speed automatic and a five-speed manual, both floor-mounted. The automatic unit featured Sequential Sports Shift, a first for the Falcon nameplate in Australia. Utility body styles were also available with an optional column-mounted automatic shifter (without Sequential Sports Shift) in lieu of the floor-mounted system also offered. The new Control-Blade independent rear suspension (IRS) fitted to all sedansÃfirst used in development of the Ford Focus and the Jaguar X-Typeà was superior to the optional double wishbone IRS suspension used on AU sedans, and was cheaper. However, it was heavier than the previous live rear axle used for base models, and the change contributed to the base model XT sedan's 130-kilogram (287 lb) weight increase from the previous model. The wagons and utilities retained the leaf spring live axle rear suspension of the AU wagon and utility; consequently, they did not gain as much weight as the sedan. The BA Falcon was also smoother on the road, with increased towing capabilities from previous models. Fuel consumption in the Barra 182 was measured at 12.5 L/100 km (18.8 mpgUS) for city driving and 8.2 L/100 km (29 mpgUS) for highway driving. These numbers were government figures, measured indoors using a dynamometer. Real-world testing has shown that an extra 12% is actually consumed.Falcon XT Marketed largely towards the fleet industry, the entry-level Falcon XT sold in the most numbers.Featuring the base Barra 182 six-cylinder engine, air conditioning, front power windows, and five-speed manual transmission, with the choice of a four-speed automatic, the XT was sold in sedan and station wagon body types. The Barra 220 V8 engine was available as an option. Judges of the Australia's Best Cars awards crowned the XT Best Family Car in 2002, and again in 2004, with the Futura receiving the award in 2003. Futura The semi-luxury Futura variant was heavily based on the XT, and marketed towards families. Futura models gained cruise control, 16-inch alloy wheels, rear power windows and full body-coloured side-view mirrors and side-protection moldings. But, side-impact airbags and power adjustable pedals were only available as options. Falcon XR6 Building on the features of the XT, Ford Australia at one point considered not releasing the sports-oriented Falcon XR6 because of the new XR6 Turbo model. However, Ford overturned this decision before production.A specifically designed body kit distinguished the XR6 from other variants, except for the XR6 Turbo and XR8 which shared the sports bodywork. The naturally aspirated engine was identical to the engine used on the XT and Futura, and the five-speed manual transmission came as standard.The newly introduced Falcon XR6 Turbo (XR6T) received critical acclaim at launch, and the Australia's Best Car's judges even awarded it the Best Sports car under $57,000 in 2002. At heart visually identical to the XR6, the turbocharged derivative gained extra features, with the additional turbocharger boosting the car's total power output to 240 kW (320 hp). The turbocharger is a Garrett GT35/40 unit.Falcon XR8 Being the flagship sports variant, the XR8 credited specially tuned sports suspension, seating trim displaying the "XR" insignia, 17-inch wheels and the new 5.4-litre Boss 260 engine, outputting 30 percent more power than the previous model. Fairmont The Fairmont model opened up the luxury sector for the BA range. Externally, the Fairmont could be distinguished from the other BA models with its 16-inch alloy wheels and grey mesh grille with chrome surround. Some of the standard features included traction control and dual-zone climate control air conditioning, an analogue clock on the top centre console stack, wood grain highlights,and velour upholstery. Automatic headlights, which turn off or on depending on surrounding environmental conditions, were now standard on the Fairmont model.In addition to this, the Fairmont also received illuminated footwells. The basic mechanical setup carried over from the XT, although buyers could opt for the Barra 220 V8 engine. Fairmont Ghia By far the most expensive variant in the BA range, the Fairmont Ghia featured leather upholstery, wood grain highlights, full power options and a unique suspension assembly. The premium sound system, which incorporated a full-colour LCD screen, was standard, and the centre console stack was characterised by an analogue clock. Reverse parking sensors were available for the first time in the BA, standard on the Ghia. The sensors feature an automatic turn-off function for use when towing a boat or trailer for example. Falcon Ute The BA series Falcon utility was introduced in October 2002 in six model guises.XL Cab Chassis XL Wellbody XLS Cab Chassis XLS Wellbody XR6 Wellbody XR6 Turbo These were later joined by two additional models: XR8: reintroduced to the range early in 2003 (last seen in the previous AU III series). RTV: was released in September 2003. The name "RTV" stood for "Rugged Terrain Vehicle" and featured an increased ride height, additional underbody protection, a lockable rear differential, a unique grille, flared guards and 16-inch alloy wheels. Originally dubbed "Hi-Ride" prior to release, in early 2003 Ford Australia held a competition to find a name for this variant, with "RTV" announced as the winning entrant in July.

The accelerator linkage in a Ford Falcon BA Series connects the accelerator pedal to the throttle body, controlling the engine's air intake and, consequently, its power output. Understanding the theory behind the repair helps in diagnosing and fixing faults effectively.

### Theory of the Accelerator Linkage

1. **Function of Accelerator Linkage**: The accelerator linkage translates the mechanical movement of the accelerator pedal into a corresponding movement of the throttle valve in the engine's intake system. When the pedal is depressed, the linkage pulls the throttle open, allowing more air into the engine, which increases power.

2. **Common Issues**: Problems can arise due to wear, misalignment, or failure of components in the linkage system. Symptoms may include unresponsive acceleration, a sticking throttle, or erratic engine performance.

3. **Components**:
- **Pedal Assembly**: The starting point where driver input occurs.
- **Linkage Rods**: Connect the pedal to the throttle body.
- **Throttle Body**: The component that controls airflow into the engine, which the linkage directly affects.

### Steps to Repair and Their Theoretical Basis

1. **Diagnosis**: Start by checking for any visible wear or damage in the linkage system. This includes inspecting the pedal assembly, rods, and throttle body. Understanding how each component interacts helps identify where the fault lies.

2. **Disassembly**: Remove the accelerator pedal assembly and linkage rods. This allows for a thorough inspection and access to replace or repair any damaged parts. Understanding the assembly's layout ensures you can reassemble it correctly.

3. **Component Replacement or Repair**:
- Replace worn bushings or rods that may cause sloppiness in the linkage. This ensures a direct and efficient transfer of pedal movement to the throttle.
- If the throttle body is sticking, clean it to remove carbon buildup. This allows for smooth operation and ensures the throttle responds accurately to pedal input.

4. **Reinstallation**: Once repairs are made, carefully reinstall the components. Proper alignment is crucial; misalignment can lead to improper throttle response or increased wear.

5. **Testing**: After reassembly, test the pedal operation. Ensure that pressing the pedal results in smooth and proportional throttle response. This confirms that the linkage is functioning as intended.

### Conclusion

Repairing the accelerator linkage on a Ford Falcon BA Series addresses issues related to the mechanical connection between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body. By ensuring that the components are in good condition and properly aligned, you restore the precise control needed for optimal engine performance. Understanding the theory behind each step allows for effective troubleshooting and implementation of the repair.
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Pushing the pushrods on a Ford Falcon BA Series involves understanding the engine's valve train and how the pushrods function within it. Here's a concise explanation of the theory and the process:

### Theory:

1. **Engine Configuration**: The Ford Falcon BA Series has an overhead cam (OHC) design, which means the camshaft is located above the valves, operating them via pushrods in a pushrod engine setup.

2. **Pushrod Function**: Pushrods transfer motion from the camshaft to the rocker arms, which in turn open and close the engine's intake and exhaust valves. If pushrods are bent, damaged, or improperly aligned, it can lead to valve timing issues, poor engine performance, or even engine damage.

3. **Common Faults**: Symptoms of faulty pushrods may include abnormal engine noise, misfiring, loss of power, or noticeable performance issues due to improper valve operation.

### Repair Process:

1. **Diagnosis**: Before replacing or adjusting pushrods, diagnose the issue using engine codes, visual inspections, and listening for unusual noises. This helps confirm that the pushrods are indeed the problem.

2. **Disassembly**: Remove necessary components such as the engine cover, intake manifold, and valve covers to access the pushrods and rocker arms.

3. **Inspect Pushrods**: Check for bends, wear, or damage. If any pushrods appear faulty, they must be replaced.

4. **Replace Pushrods**: Remove the damaged pushrods and install new or straightened pushrods. Ensure they are the correct length and fit properly in their respective locations.

5. **Reassembly**: Reinstall the rocker arms and ensure they are properly torqued to specifications. Replace the valve covers and any other removed components.

6. **Adjustment**: If applicable, adjust the valve lash to ensure proper clearance between the pushrods and rocker arms.

7. **Testing**: Start the engine and listen for any abnormal noises. Monitor engine performance to ensure that the repair has resolved the issue.

### Conclusion:

By replacing or adjusting the pushrods, you restore the correct operation of the valve train, ensuring that the valves open and close at the correct times. This, in turn, maximizes engine performance, efficiency, and longevity, effectively fixing the underlying faults caused by the original pushrod issues.
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Why this repair is needed — the short theory
- Role: The transmission output shaft (mainshaft/output shaft) is the final rotating member inside the gearbox that carries gear teeth and splines to deliver torque from the gearbox to the driveshaft/propshaft. It transmits engine torque (after whatever reduction by the gears) out of the gearbox.
- Symptoms of a failing output shaft or its support components: driveline vibration, gear noise (whine/grind) that changes with vehicle speed, play in the driveshaft flange, gearbox oil leaking from the tail housing, metal particles in gearbox oil, progressive loss of drive or inability to engage gears.
- Why it fails: worn or damaged splines, worn bearings or races, failed oil seal causing lubricant starvation, corrosion pitting, or shock loading (e.g., sudden clutch engagement). Bearings and seals are the usual culprits — the output shaft itself may be salvageable but often replaced if splines or journals are damaged.
- Analogy: think of the gearbox like a bicycle hub. The output shaft is the axle and the gears are the cogset. Bearings support and let the axle turn smoothly. If the axle splines are chewed or the bearings are shot, the wheel wobbles, grinds or slips.

What you will encounter and what every component does (common components you’ll see)
- Transmission case / housing: structural body of gearbox, contains gearset and supports bearings.
- Bellhousing: front portion that mates to the engine and houses the input shaft/torque converter.
- Input shaft: takes rotation from clutch/torque converter into the gearset.
- Layshaft / countershaft (manual): carries mating gear sets that transfer torque to the main/output shaft.
- Mainshaft / output shaft: the shaft that carries selected gear, splines for propshaft flange, and transmits torque out.
- Gears and synchronisers (manual): gears that provide ratios and synchronisers that smooth gear engagement.
- Bearings: radial (roller/ball) bearings and sometimes needle bearings that support the output shaft journals in the case.
- Bearing races and cups: hardened surfaces the bearings roll on.
- Bushings / sleeves: low-friction surfaces between shafts and case.
- Retaining rings / circlips / snap rings: hold components location axially.
- Spacers / shims / thrust washers: set axial clearance / preload and gear position.
- Output shaft flange / yoke / splines: where the driveshaft mates (splines transfer torque).
- Tail housing / extension housing: the rear cover that supports the output shaft and contains the final oil seal.
- Oil seal (output/tail seal): keeps gearbox oil inside; failures cause leaks and contamination.
- Gaskets / O-rings: fluid seals between mating surfaces.
- Fasteners: bolts, studs and nuts holding the assembly together.
- Selector forks, linkage: engage gears (you’ll see them when you split the case).
- Fluid (gear oil): lubricates gears and bearings. Contamination or low level damages bearings.

Tools and supplies (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, suitable extensions.
- Torque wrench (capable of gearbox torque range).
- Bearing puller / gear puller.
- Press (hydraulic or arbor press) or suitable bearing drivers; alternatives: heating bearing cup or using a drift and careful force (but press recommended).
- Snap-ring pliers (internal/external).
- Screwdrivers, pry bars.
- Seal driver / oil seal installer.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (to measure endplay/backlash).
- Feeler gauges / plastic gauge (for bearing preload/backlash where used).
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack and supports; engine support if needed.
- Clean rags, brake/kero solvent or parts cleaner.
- New output shaft (OEM or quality aftermarket), new bearings, new seal(s), new circlips, new gaskets, replacement shims if needed, replacement prop flange bolts if torque-to-yield.
- Manual/parts diagram for BA Falcon (essential for torque specs, shims, sequence).

Safety first — non-negotiable
- Disconnect battery. Chock wheels. Use jack stands (never rely on a jack alone). Use eye and hand protection.
- Support the engine if you remove transmission crossmember or drop transmission; do not let engine sag.
- Transmission is heavy. Use a transmission jack or helper. Dropping it will injure you and damage parts.
- Clean work area and keep bolts/parts organized and marked.

High-level step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly, assumes a bench-level rebuild)
Note: This is a general, complete workflow. BA-specific bolt locations, torque values, and shim thicknesses must come from the factory workshop manual for exact numbers.

1) Preparation and diagnostics
- Confirm symptom and inspect fluid: drain transmission fluid into a clean container and look for metal flakes (magnets in pan will show ferrous debris). Photograph driveshaft flange position relative to body for reference.
- Get a service manual or OEM data for BA Falcon (model-specific details are required for shims and torque specs).
- Gather all new parts: output shaft assembly, bearings, seals, circlips, and any shims specified.

2) Vehicle-level removal of transmission (safe removal)
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on stands. Remove center console, driveshaft/propshaft: mark the relative rotation orientation of flange and shaft so you reassemble in same orientation (important for balancing).
- Remove crossmember(s), starter motor, speedometer cable/sensor, diff breathers/links, exhaust components as required for clearance.
- Disconnect clutch (manual) or torque converter bolts (automatic) per manual. For manual: remove clutch cable or hydraulic line from slave cylinder and away from the case.
- Support engine (if necessary) with an engine support bar, or support the transmission with a transmission jack.
- Unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts. Slide transmission rearwards and lower carefully on transmission jack. Watch for wiring and linkages.
- Place transmission on a clean, strong bench.

3) Disassembly to access output shaft
- Remove tail housing/extension housing bolts and separate tail housing from main case. On BA gearboxes there is usually a rear cover with the oil seal — remove that first.
- Remove driveshaft flange/prop flange if still attached.
- Inspect rear bearing retainer and seal. Remove snap rings/circlips that retain the output shaft axial position (use correct snap-ring pliers).
- Carefully remove any shims or thrust washers and keep them in order. Mark thickness and order: these determine endplay.
- If needed, remove selector forks or dismantle upper case to get access to bearings/gears that lock the output shaft in place.
- Note: On many manual transmissions the output shaft is gear-mounted and held by a circlip and/or by engagement with the layshaft pinion gears. It may require withdrawing the layshaft or removing a particular circlip to slide the output shaft out.

4) Removing output shaft
- Once retaining items are removed, slide the output shaft out of the case. You may need to press it out or gently tap with a soft-faced mallet if it’s tight — be careful not to damage splines or journals.
- If bearings do not come off easily, use a bearing puller or press to remove bearings from the shaft.
- Keep parts in order and photograph orientation. Label them.

5) Inspection and measurement
- Inspect output shaft splines for wear, pitting, or galling. Check journals for scoring or ovality. If damaged, replacement is required.
- Inspect bearings (rollers/cups), races, thrust washers, synchromesh teeth, and gear faces for wear. Replace any worn/damaged items.
- Clean all parts in solvent and blow dry. Inspect case bores where bearings seat for damage — pitting in the case may require case repair or replacement.
- Measure shaft endplay/backlash per manual using dial indicator; measure gear tooth clearance/backlash. If outside spec, you may need different shims or replacement components.

6) Installing the new output shaft and bearings
- Press new bearings onto the output shaft in the correct orientation. Use a press and bearing drivers; only apply force to the bearing outer race if driving onto a shaft or inner race if pressing into location, depending on fit — follow bearing installation best practices.
- Install new snap rings/circlips where needed. Clean and lightly oil mating surfaces.
- Reinstall any spacer/shim/thrust washers in the exact order. If replacing shims, use manual’s recommended method to set endplay. This may require trial assembly and measuring back to achieve correct endplay/backlash.
- Slide output shaft in place, engaging gears with layshaft properly (rotate to mesh as necessary).
- Reinstall tail housing and new output oil seal using the seal driver to seat it square.

7) Setting clearances and backlash (critical)
- Use a dial indicator to measure output shaft endplay. Adjust shims/thrust washers to reach specified clearance. Too little endplay = preload (can overheat and wear bearings); too much = shaft play, noise, gear wear.
- Check gear backlash between output gear and countershaft gear with a dial indicator; refer to manual for acceptable range and correct by changing shims if required.
- If any bearing preload is set by torqueing a nut, use torque wrench to specified torque and measure resulting preload.

8) Reassembly of gearbox
- Reassemble selector components and upper case if you split it. Replace all gaskets and O-rings.
- Torque case bolts and tail housing bolts to OEM specs (do not guess).
- Reinstall clutch or torque converter per manual — torque converter bolts must be installed in a specific sequence for automatics.

9) Refit transmission to vehicle
- Position transmission on the jack, align bellhousing to engine and slide forward until it seats fully. Reinstall bellhousing bolts finger-tight, then torque in sequence to spec.
- Reconnect starter, linkage, speedo, wiring and any brackets. Reattach crossmember(s).
- Reinstall driveshaft in the orientation you marked. Torque flange bolts to spec.
- Refill with correct type and quantity of transmission fluid (see manual). For automatics, you may have to run and cycle gears and check fluid level at operating temperature.

10) Testing and break-in
- Start engine, check for fluid leaks. Shift through gears (manual: with engine off and on) and confirm engagement and free rotation.
- Test drive at low speed, listen for unusual noise, check for leaks again, recheck fluid level after warm-up and cycling.
- If driveline vibration remains, recheck prop shaft balance and flange alignment.

What can go wrong (common failure modes, and how to avoid)
- Incorrect shim/endplay: setting wrong endplay leads to premature bearing failure or noisy gears. Always follow manual and measure.
- Damaging bearings or races during removal/installation: use correct pullers/press and support surfaces. Do not hammer directly on bearing faces.
- Installing seal backwards or not seating it squarely: causes leaks — use a seal driver and check orientation.
- Reassembly with contaminated parts: dirt/metal particles will shorten life. Clean thoroughly and use fresh fluid.
- Lost or mixed shims/thrust washers: mark and bag parts during disassembly; reassemble in order.
- Torque errors on fasteners: use torque wrench and correct sequence — over/under torque damages threads and causes leaks or misalignment.
- Dropping heavy transmission or parts: causes injury/damage; use proper lifting gear.
- Not replacing related wear items: if bearings are old, change them rather than reusing; a new shaft on old bearings can fail early.
- Driveshaft balance mismatch: if you do not refit driveshaft exactly as removed or bolts are reused past stretch limits, vibration or fastener failure can occur.

Practical beginner tips
- Work methodically: label and bag fasteners and small parts by location.
- Photographs at each step speed reassembly and reduce mistakes.
- If you lack a press: many auto shops or tool-hire shops can press bearings on/off for a small fee.
- Buy a bearing/seal kit rather than single parts; doing it twice is expensive.
- Keep fasteners clean and use threadlocker where manual specifies.

When to call a pro
- If case bores are scored or you suspect case alignment damage (requires machine work).
- If you cannot accurately measure and set endplay/backlash — improper setup ruins a transmission quickly.
- If internal damage is extensive (broken gears, mangled splines) — consider full rebuild or replacement.

Final notes (short)
- This is a moderate-to-advanced job: requires mechanical aptitude, the right tools (press, dial indicator, torque wrench) and the BA Falcon workshop manual for exact specs and shim details.
- Follow safety precautions. Cleanliness and correct measurement are the two biggest factors that make a gearbox last after reassembly.

No extra questions — follow the above, reference the BA Falcon workshop manual for model-specific torque and shim data, and take your time.
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