Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + long heavy-duty jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive breaker bar & ratchet, 3/8" ratchet for small fasteners
- Socket set: commonly 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 22 mm (check vehicle)
- Deep sockets for strut top nut and hub nut as required
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm)
- Spring compressor (suitable for MacPherson springs) or replacement complete strut assemblies (preferred)
- Ball joint / tie rod end separator or puller (pickle fork as alternate)
- Large pry bar
- Hammer, punch
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Wire or zip ties to hang brakes/lines
- New parts: strut cartridges or complete strut assemblies, upper strut mounts/bearings, dust boots, bump stops, new lower/upper strut nuts & bolts (recommended), anti-seize or thread locker
- Safety glasses, gloves

Safety precautions (read & follow)
- Work on level ground, chock rear wheels, engage parking brake.
- Loosen top strut tower nuts slightly before lifting vehicle (if accessible) but do not remove.
- Always support vehicle on jack stands; never rely on the jack.
- If using a spring compressor, inspect it first; use two compressors on opposite sides of spring and compress evenly. A released spring stores lethal energy — treat it carefully.
- Support the lower control arm/hub when separating fasteners so suspension geometry doesn’t drop suddenly and overstress brake lines/CV joints.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.

Overview / choices
- Option A (safer, faster): replace with complete strut assembly (pre-assembled strut, mount, spring). No spring compressor needed.
- Option B (cheaper, more dangerous if inexperienced): replace strut insert or cartridge using spring compressor and re-use mount/spring (or replace mount/dust boot/bump stop simultaneously).

Step-by-step — front strut (MacPherson) removal & replacement
1. Prep
- Park, chock rear wheels, set parking brake. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.
- Open hood; locate strut top nuts in strut tower. Loosen the top three nuts ~2-3 turns (do NOT remove yet) so the strut can drop when lower bolts undone.

2. Lift vehicle & remove wheel
- Jack vehicle at recommended pick-up point. Place jack stands under frame. Lower onto stands. Remove wheel.

3. Access and prep for separation
- Apply penetrating oil to lower strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link, and any rusted fasteners.
- Remove brake line or ABS sensor bracket from strut (usually a small bolt). Secure brake hose to frame with zip tie — do not let hoses hang under tension.
- Loosen but do not fully remove the lower strut nut/bolt at the hub and the sway bar end link if attached to strut. If steering tie rod or ball joint needs separation to free the knuckle, remove cotter pins and nuts accordingly.

4. Support the hub/control arm
- Place a floor jack under the lower control arm/hub assembly and support it so the weight is taken when bolts are removed (do not lift fully, just support).

5. Remove lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners
- Remove the lower bolt(s) that hold the strut to the steering knuckle. You may need a hammer/punch or a penetrating oil soak. Use a ball joint separator to avoid damaging tie rod/cv joints if required. Once bolts removed, rotate/tilt strut to clear brake rotor/starter.

6. Remove upper strut mounting nuts & extract strut
- From inside engine bay, remove the top three strut tower nuts and the strut assembly will drop out. Guide the strut clear of the engine bay and remove assembly.

7. If using complete assemblies (Option A)
- Install new complete strut assembly into place. Start top nuts by hand. Align lower hole with knuckle, insert lower bolts, torque per spec. Torque top nuts to spec. Reattach brake line/ABS bracket and sway bar link. Skip spring compressor steps.

8. If reusing spring and replacing cartridge (Option B)
- Secure strut in a vise or stable workbench (soft jaws). Install two spring compressors opposite each other over adjacent coils and tighten evenly until spring preload is relieved and the center strut top nut can be removed.
- With spring compressed, remove the strut top nut. Remove old strut insert/cartridge and any worn mount/dust boot/bump stop — replace with new.
- Reassemble: place new cartridge, mount, dust boot, then slightly compress spring (still compressed by tool), install new top nut, tighten to spec while spring compressed. Slowly and evenly decompress the spring until it seats. Check assembly for proper orientation (spring ends seated correctly).

9. Reinstall strut assembly to vehicle (both options)
- Position strut into tower, start upper nuts by hand but do not fully torque until lower bolts are torqued.
- Align lower strut into knuckle, install lower bolts and torque to spec (support hub while tightening).
- Torque upper strut tower nuts to spec with vehicle at normal ride height (after suspension is loaded is ideal — if not possible, torque per manual). Replace any cotter pins.

10. Reattach brake line/ABS bracket and sway bar link; reinstall wheel
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle to ground, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.

11. Final checks
- Check brake lines and ABS sensor wires for slack and clearance through suspension travel.
- Pump brake pedal if ABS/line was disconnected to restore normal pedal feel.
- Test drive slowly to check for noises. Have 4-wheel alignment performed immediately after replacing struts.

Tool usage details & tips
- Spring compressor: use two at equal spacing; tighten a few turns at a time alternately until spring tension is fully off the strut center nut. Never compress with one compressor only. Ensure hooks seat under coil and are not on a weak coil surface.
- Ball joint separator: use a puller-style separator if possible. Pickle forks damage boots; use carefully.
- Torque wrench: always use for critical fasteners. Pull torque vs angle: follow factory manual. Avoid using impact wrench to final-torque critical suspension bolts; use hand torque wrench to achieve accurate values.
- Floor jack + jack stands: place stands on solid pinch weld or frame points. Do not use stands on oil pan or body panels.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing top mount/bearing: can transfer noise/rough steering — replace mount and bearing when changing struts.
- Not supporting hub/control arm: dropping the arm can stress CV joints, brake hoses and ABS wiring.
- Incorrect spring compressor use: uneven compression or single compressor can lead to slippage and catastrophic release. Inspect compressor and use two.
- Forgetting to replace or torque new hardware: bolt stretch or rusted hardware should be replaced; torque to spec.
- Not performing wheel alignment after replacement: causes uneven tire wear and poor handling.
- Re-using old dust boot/bump stop: shortens life of new strut — replace them.
- Not checking for other worn parts: worn ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings will mask as strut problems — inspect and replace if needed.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening top nuts while suspension is unloaded: follow manual; if possible torque upper nuts with suspension at loaded height, or follow factory sequence.

Parts typically replaced with strut
- Strut (cartridge or complete assembly)
- Upper strut mount & bearing
- Dust boot and bump stop
- New top nut (recommended) and lower mounting bolts/nuts if corroded
- Sway bar link (if worn)
- Wheel alignment after installation

Final note
- Always refer to the specific Toyota Hilux model year service manual for exact fastener torque values, removal order, and any model-specific notes. Replace struts in axle pairs for matched handling and ride.
rteeqp73

- **Understanding the Crankshaft Position Sensor**:
- The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) monitors the position and rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is crucial for engine timing, fuel injection, and ignition.

- **Tools Required**:
- **Basic Hand Tools**:
- **Socket Wrench Set**: Used to remove bolts securing the sensor. Look for metric sizes (usually 10mm or 12mm for Toyota).
- **Ratchet Extension**: Helpful for reaching bolts in tight spaces.
- **Screwdriver Set**: May be needed if clips or covers need to be removed.

- **Additional Tools**:
- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's specifications upon reinstallation. This prevents damage to the sensor or surrounding components.
- **Multimeter**: Used to test the sensor's electrical output if you suspect it’s faulty before replacing. This tool measures voltage and resistance.

- **Safety Equipment**:
- **Safety Goggles**: Protects your eyes from debris.
- **Gloves**: Protects your hands from sharp edges and hot components.

- **Replacement Part**:
- If the crankshaft position sensor is faulty (indicated by poor engine performance, stalling, or diagnostic trouble codes), it will need to be replaced.
- **Replacement Part**: Purchase a compatible CKP sensor for the Toyota Hilux. Ensure it matches the year and engine model of your vehicle.

- **Procedure for Replacement**:
- **Disconnect Battery**:
- Use a socket wrench to remove the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts.

- **Locate the Sensor**:
- Usually found near the crankshaft pulley or on the engine block. Refer to the vehicle’s manual or online diagrams for exact location.

- **Remove the Old Sensor**:
- Use the socket wrench to remove the bolts securing the sensor.
- If applicable, disconnect any wiring harness clips carefully using a screwdriver or by hand.

- **Test the Old Sensor** (optional):
- Use a multimeter to check for continuity and voltage output as per the specifications in your vehicle’s service manual.

- **Install the New Sensor**:
- Align the new sensor in place and secure it with bolts. Use a torque wrench to tighten according to the specifications (usually found in the service manual).

- **Reconnect Wiring**:
- Ensure that the wiring harness clips are fitted securely.

- **Reconnect Battery**:
- Reattach the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

- **Test the Vehicle**:
- Start the engine to ensure it runs smoothly. Check for any warning lights on the dashboard.

- **Final Check**:
- If the engine runs properly and no error codes appear, the replacement was successful. If issues persist, further diagnostics may be needed.

By following these steps and using the mentioned tools, you should be able to replace the crankshaft position sensor on a Toyota Hilux effectively.
rteeqp73