Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + long heavy-duty jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive breaker bar & ratchet, 3/8" ratchet for small fasteners
- Socket set: commonly 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 22 mm (check vehicle)
- Deep sockets for strut top nut and hub nut as required
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm)
- Spring compressor (suitable for MacPherson springs) or replacement complete strut assemblies (preferred)
- Ball joint / tie rod end separator or puller (pickle fork as alternate)
- Large pry bar
- Hammer, punch
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Wire or zip ties to hang brakes/lines
- New parts: strut cartridges or complete strut assemblies, upper strut mounts/bearings, dust boots, bump stops, new lower/upper strut nuts & bolts (recommended), anti-seize or thread locker
- Safety glasses, gloves

Safety precautions (read & follow)
- Work on level ground, chock rear wheels, engage parking brake.
- Loosen top strut tower nuts slightly before lifting vehicle (if accessible) but do not remove.
- Always support vehicle on jack stands; never rely on the jack.
- If using a spring compressor, inspect it first; use two compressors on opposite sides of spring and compress evenly. A released spring stores lethal energy — treat it carefully.
- Support the lower control arm/hub when separating fasteners so suspension geometry doesn’t drop suddenly and overstress brake lines/CV joints.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.

Overview / choices
- Option A (safer, faster): replace with complete strut assembly (pre-assembled strut, mount, spring). No spring compressor needed.
- Option B (cheaper, more dangerous if inexperienced): replace strut insert or cartridge using spring compressor and re-use mount/spring (or replace mount/dust boot/bump stop simultaneously).

Step-by-step — front strut (MacPherson) removal & replacement
1. Prep
- Park, chock rear wheels, set parking brake. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.
- Open hood; locate strut top nuts in strut tower. Loosen the top three nuts ~2-3 turns (do NOT remove yet) so the strut can drop when lower bolts undone.

2. Lift vehicle & remove wheel
- Jack vehicle at recommended pick-up point. Place jack stands under frame. Lower onto stands. Remove wheel.

3. Access and prep for separation
- Apply penetrating oil to lower strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link, and any rusted fasteners.
- Remove brake line or ABS sensor bracket from strut (usually a small bolt). Secure brake hose to frame with zip tie — do not let hoses hang under tension.
- Loosen but do not fully remove the lower strut nut/bolt at the hub and the sway bar end link if attached to strut. If steering tie rod or ball joint needs separation to free the knuckle, remove cotter pins and nuts accordingly.

4. Support the hub/control arm
- Place a floor jack under the lower control arm/hub assembly and support it so the weight is taken when bolts are removed (do not lift fully, just support).

5. Remove lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners
- Remove the lower bolt(s) that hold the strut to the steering knuckle. You may need a hammer/punch or a penetrating oil soak. Use a ball joint separator to avoid damaging tie rod/cv joints if required. Once bolts removed, rotate/tilt strut to clear brake rotor/starter.

6. Remove upper strut mounting nuts & extract strut
- From inside engine bay, remove the top three strut tower nuts and the strut assembly will drop out. Guide the strut clear of the engine bay and remove assembly.

7. If using complete assemblies (Option A)
- Install new complete strut assembly into place. Start top nuts by hand. Align lower hole with knuckle, insert lower bolts, torque per spec. Torque top nuts to spec. Reattach brake line/ABS bracket and sway bar link. Skip spring compressor steps.

8. If reusing spring and replacing cartridge (Option B)
- Secure strut in a vise or stable workbench (soft jaws). Install two spring compressors opposite each other over adjacent coils and tighten evenly until spring preload is relieved and the center strut top nut can be removed.
- With spring compressed, remove the strut top nut. Remove old strut insert/cartridge and any worn mount/dust boot/bump stop — replace with new.
- Reassemble: place new cartridge, mount, dust boot, then slightly compress spring (still compressed by tool), install new top nut, tighten to spec while spring compressed. Slowly and evenly decompress the spring until it seats. Check assembly for proper orientation (spring ends seated correctly).

9. Reinstall strut assembly to vehicle (both options)
- Position strut into tower, start upper nuts by hand but do not fully torque until lower bolts are torqued.
- Align lower strut into knuckle, install lower bolts and torque to spec (support hub while tightening).
- Torque upper strut tower nuts to spec with vehicle at normal ride height (after suspension is loaded is ideal — if not possible, torque per manual). Replace any cotter pins.

10. Reattach brake line/ABS bracket and sway bar link; reinstall wheel
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle to ground, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.

11. Final checks
- Check brake lines and ABS sensor wires for slack and clearance through suspension travel.
- Pump brake pedal if ABS/line was disconnected to restore normal pedal feel.
- Test drive slowly to check for noises. Have 4-wheel alignment performed immediately after replacing struts.

Tool usage details & tips
- Spring compressor: use two at equal spacing; tighten a few turns at a time alternately until spring tension is fully off the strut center nut. Never compress with one compressor only. Ensure hooks seat under coil and are not on a weak coil surface.
- Ball joint separator: use a puller-style separator if possible. Pickle forks damage boots; use carefully.
- Torque wrench: always use for critical fasteners. Pull torque vs angle: follow factory manual. Avoid using impact wrench to final-torque critical suspension bolts; use hand torque wrench to achieve accurate values.
- Floor jack + jack stands: place stands on solid pinch weld or frame points. Do not use stands on oil pan or body panels.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing top mount/bearing: can transfer noise/rough steering — replace mount and bearing when changing struts.
- Not supporting hub/control arm: dropping the arm can stress CV joints, brake hoses and ABS wiring.
- Incorrect spring compressor use: uneven compression or single compressor can lead to slippage and catastrophic release. Inspect compressor and use two.
- Forgetting to replace or torque new hardware: bolt stretch or rusted hardware should be replaced; torque to spec.
- Not performing wheel alignment after replacement: causes uneven tire wear and poor handling.
- Re-using old dust boot/bump stop: shortens life of new strut — replace them.
- Not checking for other worn parts: worn ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings will mask as strut problems — inspect and replace if needed.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening top nuts while suspension is unloaded: follow manual; if possible torque upper nuts with suspension at loaded height, or follow factory sequence.

Parts typically replaced with strut
- Strut (cartridge or complete assembly)
- Upper strut mount & bearing
- Dust boot and bump stop
- New top nut (recommended) and lower mounting bolts/nuts if corroded
- Sway bar link (if worn)
- Wheel alignment after installation

Final note
- Always refer to the specific Toyota Hilux model year service manual for exact fastener torque values, removal order, and any model-specific notes. Replace struts in axle pairs for matched handling and ride.
rteeqp73

- **Understanding the Crankshaft Position Sensor**:
- The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) monitors the position and rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is crucial for engine timing, fuel injection, and ignition.

- **Tools Required**:
- **Basic Hand Tools**:
- **Socket Wrench Set**: Used to remove bolts securing the sensor. Look for metric sizes (usually 10mm or 12mm for Toyota).
- **Ratchet Extension**: Helpful for reaching bolts in tight spaces.
- **Screwdriver Set**: May be needed if clips or covers need to be removed.

- **Additional Tools**:
- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's specifications upon reinstallation. This prevents damage to the sensor or surrounding components.
- **Multimeter**: Used to test the sensor's electrical output if you suspect it’s faulty before replacing. This tool measures voltage and resistance.

- **Safety Equipment**:
- **Safety Goggles**: Protects your eyes from debris.
- **Gloves**: Protects your hands from sharp edges and hot components.

- **Replacement Part**:
- If the crankshaft position sensor is faulty (indicated by poor engine performance, stalling, or diagnostic trouble codes), it will need to be replaced.
- **Replacement Part**: Purchase a compatible CKP sensor for the Toyota Hilux. Ensure it matches the year and engine model of your vehicle.

- **Procedure for Replacement**:
- **Disconnect Battery**:
- Use a socket wrench to remove the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts.

- **Locate the Sensor**:
- Usually found near the crankshaft pulley or on the engine block. Refer to the vehicle’s manual or online diagrams for exact location.

- **Remove the Old Sensor**:
- Use the socket wrench to remove the bolts securing the sensor.
- If applicable, disconnect any wiring harness clips carefully using a screwdriver or by hand.

- **Test the Old Sensor** (optional):
- Use a multimeter to check for continuity and voltage output as per the specifications in your vehicle’s service manual.

- **Install the New Sensor**:
- Align the new sensor in place and secure it with bolts. Use a torque wrench to tighten according to the specifications (usually found in the service manual).

- **Reconnect Wiring**:
- Ensure that the wiring harness clips are fitted securely.

- **Reconnect Battery**:
- Reattach the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

- **Test the Vehicle**:
- Start the engine to ensure it runs smoothly. Check for any warning lights on the dashboard.

- **Final Check**:
- If the engine runs properly and no error codes appear, the replacement was successful. If issues persist, further diagnostics may be needed.

By following these steps and using the mentioned tools, you should be able to replace the crankshaft position sensor on a Toyota Hilux effectively.
rteeqp73

1) What the control arm is and why it matters
- Function: the control arm connects the chassis to the wheel hub/knuckle and locates the wheel in the vertical and fore-aft planes while allowing controlled pivoting about bushings and a ball joint. It resists lateral and longitudinal forces from the tire and suspension so the wheel follows intended geometry.
- Components: stamped/forged arm, two chassis bushings (inner pivots), an outer ball joint (to the knuckle). The bushings provide compliant location and damping, the ball joint provides a load-bearing, articulating pivot.
- Symptoms of a bad control arm: looseness/clunking over bumps, poor steering return/wandering, uneven or rapid tire wear, vibration or looseness felt at the steering wheel, abnormal camber/caster readings, and sometimes knocking when braking/accelerating.

2) Theory of the fault and how replacement fixes it
- Worn bushings allow the arm to move relative to the frame: that movement lets wheel alignment change under load, causing clunks, wander, and uneven tire wear. Replacing the arm/bushings restores fixed pivot geometry so alignment stays constant under load.
- A worn ball joint creates free play at the wheel hub, producing clunks, play in steering, and unsafe loss of steering control. A new ball joint restores the precise pivot and load transfer.
- Corrosion or bending changes arm geometry: replacing with a straight arm restores original suspension geometry and structural integrity.
- Overall: replacement removes mechanical play/deformation and restores original kinematics (caster/camber/toe behavior), damping and load paths, so the wheel tracks as designed.

3) Safety and preparation (do this first)
- Park on level ground, chock opposite wheels, use rated jack and secure jack stands under solid subframe points (never rely on the jack). Wear eye protection.
- Gather correct replacement arm(s) and hardware, penetrating oil, appropriate sockets/wrenches, pry bars, ball-joint separator or pickle fork, torque wrench, hammer, breaker bar, possibly a press or bench vise if bushings/ball joint are pressed in.
- Have the vehicle service manual/spec sheet for exact torque specs and any special procedures. (Specs vary by year/model.)

4) Diagnostic confirmation (short)
- With wheel off and vehicle on stands, check for play: grab tire at 12 and 6 and rock to check ball joint/arm play; pry on the arm at the bushing to check bushing movement. If play is present, replacement is needed.
- Inspect other suspension parts (tie rods, sway bar links, strut top mounts) because they can cause similar symptoms and should be addressed together.

5) Ordered replacement procedure with theory for each step
1. Loosen wheel nuts with car on ground (safety/stability).
- Theory: prevents wheel from spinning when loosening; easier and safer.
2. Raise vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove wheel.
- Theory: allows access and prevents accidental collapse.
3. Support the knuckle/hub assembly (jack or strap) to take weight off the ball joint.
- Theory: prevents sudden drop of the hub that could stretch brake lines or damage other joints.
4. Remove any components that block arm removal (sway bar link, ABS sensor bracket, brake line bracket) but leave hydraulic lines supported.
- Theory: clearances and prevent damage; some brackets keep geometry fixed.
5. Remove the outer ball joint nut and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a proper separator or press. If castle nut and cotter pin present, remove pin first.
- Theory: frees the arm from the wheel hub while preserving the knuckle’s position.
6. Remove bolts/nuts at the inner pivot bushings (control arm-to-frame). Note orientation and any eccentric/locator washers; mark their position if you need to preserve approximate alignment.
- Theory: these fasteners control camber/caster settings on re-install; marking helps minimize alignment drift.
7. Remove the control arm assembly. Inspect mating surfaces, knuckle, and hardware for wear or damage.
- Theory: confirm nothing else is bent or seized that could cause immediate re-failure.
8. If replacing bushings/ball joint only: press out old components and press in new using a press or appropriate tools (follow bushing orientation and lubricate if required). Otherwise use the new complete arm.
- Theory: correct installation ensures correct bushing preload and ball joint seating to maintain geometry and longevity.
9. Install new arm into the vehicle: loosely install inner pivot bolts/nuts and attach ball joint to the knuckle with its nut, leaving everything loose enough to allow alignment of parts.
- Theory: leaving hardware loose until the suspension is at ride height prevents preloading or binding of bushings and gives accurate geometry once under load.
10. Refit any brackets and links removed. Reconnect sway bar links and sensors.
11. Lower vehicle so suspension is at normal ride height or at least support it to simulate ride height, then torque inner pivot bolts and ball joint nut to factory torque spec. If a two-step torque is required or special alignment washers must be oriented, follow manual.
- Theory: bushings should be tightened with the suspension loaded as designed; otherwise you get bushing pre-load that causes premature wear or altered geometry.
12. Reinstall wheel, lower to ground, torque wheel nuts to spec.
13. Test and verify: check that steering moves smoothly, do a low-speed drive to confirm absence of clunks or wander.
14. Perform a professional wheel alignment (toe/camber/caster) immediately after replacement.
- Theory: changing arm/bushings alters mounting geometry; alignment ensures tires contact road correctly and restores proper handling and tire life.

6) Practical tips and common pitfalls
- Always replace both sides if one side has severe wear — mismatched parts produce asymmetric handling. If only one side is weak but the other is in decent shape, replacing just the worn unit is possible but alignment and handling should be tested.
- Corroded bolts: apply penetrating oil and heat if needed. Replace bolts if damaged.
- Do not tighten inner bush bolts with suspension unloaded (at full droop) unless the manual specifies it; tighten at ride height where required.
- If bushings are bonded-type and you don’t have a press, prefer replacing the whole arm assembly to avoid improper bushing installation.
- Use new castle nuts/cotter pins where specified; do not reuse safety hardware that’s designed single-use.
- After replacement, monitor tire wear and steering feel for the first few hundred miles.

7) How the repair restores normal operation (summary)
- Removing worn bushings/ball joint eliminates play at the wheel pivot and at the chassis pivot, restoring consistent wheel location under load. That fixes clunks, steering wander, and abnormal tire wear.
- A straight, undamaged arm restores factory geometry so camber/caster match design values; combined with alignment, this returns predictable handling, steering return, and tire life.
- Proper torqueing under loaded conditions and correct installation avoids introducing new stresses that cause premature failure.

End.
rteeqp73