Tools needed
- Metric socket set (6–24 mm), extensions, ratchet, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to at least 100 Nm) and (if required) angle gauge
- Combination wrenches (including small sizes for adjuster locknuts)
- Feeler gauges (metric set, 0.05–0.50 mm)
- Screwdriver set, pick, pliers
- Rubber/nylon mallet, small pry bar
- Gasket scraper / razor blade, shop rags, solvent
- Torque-to-yield bolt replacement (if specified) / thread locker (per OEM)
- Magnetic tray / parts organizer, marker or tape
- Caliper or micrometer (for measuring shims/parts)
- Engine assembly lube / clean engine oil
- Replacement parts: valve cover gasket, rocker arm(s) or rocker shaft assembly, bushings/bearings, adjuster screws & locknuts or shims (as required), replacement bolts if OEM calls them single‑use
- Jack and axle stands (only if vehicle must be raised)
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection

Safety precautions
- Work with the engine cold. Hot aluminum heads can cause burns and softening of gaskets.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Park on level ground, apply handbrake, chock wheels. Use jack stands if vehicle is raised.
- Keep flames/sparks away from open oil areas. Use good ventilation.
- Keep parts clean and organized; contamination of valve train causes premature wear.

Notes up front (important)
- Toyota Hilux engines vary (petrol SOHC/DOHC and diesel OHV/DOHC). Some use hydraulic lash adjusters (no clearance adjustment required) and some use screw‑type or shim‑under‑bucket systems. This procedure covers general removal, inspection, replacement and both common adjustment methods. Always confirm exact specs and torque sequence from the factory workshop manual for your engine and model year.

Procedure — removal and access
1. Preparation
- Remove negative battery cable.
- Drain or remove intake ducting/airbox and any engine covers obstructing valve cover access.
- Remove ancillary items (ignition coils or spark plug leads, vacuum lines, fuel lines over the cover) as needed to access the valve cover. Label connectors.

2. Remove valve cover
- Loosen and remove valve cover bolts in a criss‑cross pattern to avoid warping.
- Pry the valve cover off carefully; if stuck, use a gentle pry at the gasket seam. Do not gouge sealing surface.
- Remove valve cover gasket; clean mating surfaces thoroughly.

3. Expose rocker arms
- With the cover removed you can see the rocker arms/shaft (or rocker assemblies).
- Rotate engine to the correct position for inspection/adjustment (see adjustment section). If replacing parts, note orientation of rocker arms and any indexing marks; take photos.

Removal of rocker arms / shaft (if replacing)
4. Mark and document
- Label each rocker arm/shaft cap and location (left-to-right sequence). Keep assembly order; many shafts/caps are not interchangeable.
- If assembly has a locating dowel or numbered caps, keep them in place order.

5. Loosen saddle/cap bolts progressively
- Loosen bolts one turn at a time across the caps in sequence to relieve stress evenly.
- Remove bolts and caps. Keep caps with their original positions and orientation.

6. Remove rocker shaft and arms
- Carefully lift the rocker shaft assembly out. Some engines have individual rocker arms; remove them individually.
- Inspect pushrods (if present) — roll them on a flat surface to check straightness.

Inspection
7. Inspect components
- Rocker arms: check the contact surface (with valve tip and cam lobes) for pitting, scoring, flattened lobes, or excessive wear.
- Shaft: check for scoring, ovality, wear marks.
- Bushings/bearings: check for play and wear.
- Pushrods: check straightness and tip wear.
- Valves and valve stem tops: check for mushrooming.
- If hydraulic lifters: check they are not collapsed/leaking oil; they may need replacement.

Replacement parts required
- Replace any rocker arms or shafts with visible wear or play.
- Replace bushings/bearings if worn.
- Replace valve cover gasket and any crush washers or seals disturbed.
- Some OEM bolts (especially on newer Toyotas) are single-use/tension bolts — replace if specified in manual.
- Replace adjuster screws, locknuts, or shims as needed to obtain correct clearances.

Reinstallation
8. Clean and lubricate
- Clean all mating surfaces; ensure no old gasket material remains.
- Use assembly lube or clean engine oil on rocker contact surfaces, shafts, and cam lobes (if applicable) during reassembly.

9. Install rockers/shaft and caps in original order
- Place rocker arms/shaft back in original orientation with caps in their matching positions.
- Hand-start bolts, then tighten in the specified sequence progressively to the factory torque. If manual says torque in stages (e.g., 5 Nm → 15 Nm → final), follow it.
- If angle tightening is required, use an angle gauge after initial torque. Do not exceed OEM values.

Valve clearance checking and adjustment
There are three common arrangements: hydraulic lifters (no lash adjustment), screw-and-locknut rockers (adjustable), and shim‑under‑bucket (shim) systems.

A) If your engine uses hydraulic lash adjusters
- No valve clearance adjustment is required under normal conditions. Replace any collapsed/noisy lifters. Reassemble and run.

B) Screw‑and‑locknut rockers (common on many SOHC/OHV engines)
10. Set engine to TDC on the compression stroke for the cylinder you're adjusting (commonly #1 first). Confirm both valves for that cylinder are closed.
11. Use the feeler gauge between the valve stem tip and the rocker face (or as the manual specifies). For screw-style: loosen the adjuster locknut slightly, turn the adjuster screw until the specified clearance is achieved. Technique: insert feeler blade, turn screw until slight drag on blade, hold screw and tighten locknut while keeping screw stationary. Recheck clearance. Repeat for each cylinder in the correct firing order, rotating the engine as required to get each valve on the closed/compression position.
- Feeler gauge use: choose the specified thickness blade; insert between rocker and valve stem; you should feel a slight drag when correct. If too loose, reduce clearance; if too tight, increase.

C) Shim‑under‑bucket systems (DOHC or some modern designs)
12. This requires removal of the camshaft or at least the cam cap to access shims. Follow factory procedure: loosen cam cap bolts in sequence, remove camshaft, keep cam lobes orientation and timing marks.
13. Remove bucket and measure existing gap with feeler gauge. Calculate new shim thickness: new_shim = old_shim + (measured_clearance − spec_clearance). Replace shims with measured value, reassemble camshafts and torque caps per factory sequence. Timing/positioning is critical — do not disturb timing chain/belt or cam timing marks; if you must, re-time per manual.

Final reassembly and checks
14. Install new valve cover gasket and torque cover bolts to spec, in sequence.
15. Reinstall ignition coils, spark plug wires, intake components, battery negative cable.
16. Prime oil to rocker area: crank engine without starting for a few seconds (or follow manual) to circulate oil.
17. Start engine and let idle. Listen for unusual noise (ticking or knocking). Re‑check for oil leaks around the valve cover.
18. Re-check valve clearance after initial run if specified by manual (some designers require re-check after warm-up).

How each tool is used — quick guide
- Torque wrench: use to final-tighten cap bolts and valve cover bolts. Pre‑tighten by hand, then apply torque in prescribed incremental steps and sequence. Use calibrated wrench and appropriate socket.
- Feeler gauge: insert between valve stem tip and rocker (or bucket) when valve is fully closed. There should be a slight drag on the blade when correct. For screw adjusters, hold screwdriver on adjuster and one wrench on locknut while tuning.
- Breaker bar/ratchet: initial loosening of caps/valve cover bolts. Use care to avoid rounding bolt heads.
- Micrometer/caliper: measure old shims and verify new shim thickness if doing shim change.
- Gasket scraper/solvent: clean sealing surfaces to prevent oil leaks.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not confirming engine is on compression stroke for the cylinder when adjusting — leads to wrong lash. Rotate to TDC compression with both valves closed.
- Mixing up or reversing caps/rocker arms — mark and keep original orientation.
- Reusing torque‑to‑yield or single‑use bolts — can lead to failures; replace as manufacturer requires.
- Over‑tightening or under‑tightening cap bolts — causes bearing distortion or movement; always use correct torque and sequence.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces — leads to oil leaks.
- Not lubricating contact surfaces on reassembly — causes premature wear on initial start.
- Losing or mixing shims — label and measure every shim; keep organized.
- For DOHC/shim systems: removing camshafts without marking timing — leads to incorrect timing and severe engine damage. If cam timing is disturbed, follow factory timing procedure.
- Adjusting cold when the specification is for warm (or vice versa) — follow the spec temperature condition.
- Forgetting to recheck clearance after run-in when manual requires it.

When to replace parts
- Replace any rocker with pitting, flattened contact surface, or excessive play.
- Replace shaft/bushings if scoring or wear beyond service limits.
- Replace hydraulic lifters if they are noisy or collapsed (measured/compared).
- Replace valve cover gasket whenever the cover is removed.
- Replace any bolts called out as non‑reusable in the workshop manual.

Closing
Follow the factory workshop manual for exact valve clearances, torque values, bolt sequences and any engine‑specific procedures. Proper labeling, cleanliness, correct tooling (torque wrench, feeler gauges), and following sequence/torque steps are the keys to a successful rocker arm service.
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- Safety first
- Park on level ground, handbrake on, chock rear wheels; work with the engine off and key removed.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; keep clothing clear of moving parts.
- If you raise the vehicle, use a suitable jack and rated jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.

- Tools you need and how to use them (detailed)
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Description: assortment of sockets (metric sizes likely 8–19 mm) and a ratchet handle; extensions help reach recessed nuts.
- How to use: choose the socket that fits snugly on the nut, attach to ratchet, turn clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen; extensions give reach under the vehicle or behind the console.
- Combination spanner set (open end and box end)
- Description: fixed-length wrenches, metric sizes matching sockets.
- How to use: use the box end for best grip on nuts in tight spots, the open end for quick engagement; hold with one hand and turn, use the spanner when there's no room for a ratchet.
- Pliers (needle-nose and adjustable)
- Description: needle-nose for small clips/pins; adjustable (slip-joint) for grabbing larger items.
- How to use: needle-nose to pull retaining clips or hold cable ends; adjustable for bending or holding components when loosening nuts.
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Description: common screwdrivers for trim removal and clips.
- How to use: use to pry plastic trim (gently), pop console clips, or remove small screws. Use a trim tool if you have one to avoid damage.
- Torque wrench (recommended but not strictly required)
- Description: wrench that applies a specific torque.
- How to use: set required torque if specified in manual; tighten to feel and click. If unavailable, tighten snugly then quarter-turn; avoid over-tightening.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40 or PB Blaster)
- Description: spray oil for freeing rusty or stuck nuts and bolts.
- How to use: spray on corroded fasteners, wait 5–15 minutes, then attempt to loosen.
- Hammer and soft mallet
- Description: metal hammer and rubber or plastic mallet.
- How to use: gentle taps to free stuck linkages or seating; use soft mallet to avoid damage.
- Jack and jack stands
- Description: hydraulic jack and stands rated for vehicle weight.
- How to use: lift at specified jacking points, place stands under solid frame points, slowly lower onto stands.
- Flashlight or work light
- Description: bright light to see under dash and under vehicle.
- How to use: illuminate work area; use headlamp for hands-free work.
- Wire brush / rag
- Description: cleans dirt, grime, and corrosion.
- How to use: clean cable ends and mounting points before inspecting/adjusting.
- Cable lubricant or light grease
- Description: keeps cable sliding smoothly.
- How to use: apply inside the cable sheath ends or on exposed sections when servicing.
- Optional useful tools
- Trim removal tools: safer removal of plastic panels around the console.
- Long-reach pliers or pickup tool: for retrieving dropped nuts.
- Replacement clips or zip-ties: to secure routing of cable after adjustment.

- What extra or special tools might be required and why
- Special clip or retaining tool (rare)
- Reason: some Hilux cables use proprietary spring clips or C-clips to lock the cable end; a small pick or needle-nose pliers will usually work.
- Replacement shift cable tool/special puller (rare)
- Reason: if the cable is corroded to the point of seizure or the end is corroded into the lever, extra leverage or a small puller may be needed to separate it.
- Dealer or OEM part lookup with VIN
- Reason: Hilux parts vary by year/market; bring VIN to ensure correct replacement cable or bushings.

- Quick identification: automatic vs manual shift cable
- Manual transmission:
- Cable links gear lever to gearbox selector shaft; wear shows as sloppy gear engagement, missed gears, or grinding.
- Automatic transmission:
- Selector cable (shift linkage) connects gear lever to transmission; symptoms include gear lever not matching transmission gear (lever says Drive but gearbox in Neutral/Park), hard to select Park/Reverse, or inability to shift.

- When adjustment is appropriate vs when replacement is required
- Adjust if:
- Cable end is secure, sheath and inner cable move smoothly, and there is just slack or misalignment.
- Shifter does not line up with gearbox but the cable and ends are intact and not frayed or corroded.
- Replace if:
- Cable is frayed, kinked, inner wire broken, heavily corroded, or sheath split.
- Rubber boots, bushings, or mounting brackets are rotted or missing.
- Any end fittings are worn, rounded, or damaged so they don’t seat properly.
- Symptoms persist after proper adjustment.
- Replacement parts that might be needed
- Shift/selector cable assembly (OEM or aftermarket for your Hilux year and model).
- End bushings or retainer clips (often sold separately).
- Rubber gaiter/boot for the cable entry at gearbox or inside cabin.
- Mounting bracket if bent or broken.
- Recommendation: bring vehicle VIN and a picture of the old cable to parts counter to ensure correct part.

- Prep and access (before doing any adjustment)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be removing interior trim or working near electrical connectors (prevents accidental shorts).
- Remove center console trim as needed using screwdrivers/trim tools to access the base of the shifter.
- Locate the shift cable at the shifter base (inside) and at the transmission selector arm (under vehicle). Use flashlight.
- Clean around the connections with wire brush and rag so you can see retaining clips and nuts.

- Adjustment procedure — manual transmission (general)
- Put the shifter in neutral and the transmission in neutral; easier with a helper operating the lever while you work under the vehicle.
- At the gearbox selector arm, locate the cable end and the locknut or clamp that holds the cable sheath.
- Loosen the clamp or locknut a few turns so the cable sheath can slide freely.
- Pull or push the cable inner wire until the selector arm exactly aligns with the neutral position on the gearbox (you may need to align indexing marks — many gearboxes have a neutral alignment hole or mark).
- While the inner cable is held in the aligned position, tighten the clamp or locknut to lock the cable sheath in place.
- Return to the cabin, move the shifter through the gears to verify smooth, accurate engagement; have helper confirm actual gearbox gear if possible (test drive carefully).
- If not accurate, repeat: loosen, re-align, and tighten. When final, tighten fasteners snugly (use torque wrench if spec available).

- Adjustment procedure — automatic transmission (general)
- Park vehicle, set parking brake, and ensure transmission is in Park.
- Many automatic selector cables have a small locking clip or indexing pin when correctly aligned; find any tabs or marks on cable or transmission arm.
- At the transmission end, put the gearbox into Park (if cable disconnected) or follow manufacturer instruction to set an index (often the lever or arm must be in a specific notch).
- Loosen the cable clamp nut/bolt so the cable sheath can move.
- Move the shifter in the cabin to Park, then pull/push the cable inner until the transmission selector arm is in the Park position or aligned with the index marks.
- Tighten the locknut/clamp while holding the cable in position.
- Confirm the cockpit lever indicator matches transmission and that you can engage Park properly; test by starting the engine and checking gear range and interlocks.

- Testing and final checks
- Cycle through all gears while vehicle still safely secured; check for smooth, accurate engagement.
- Test drive slowly in a safe area to confirm shifts are correct and there is no slipping, delayed engagement, or unusual noise.
- Reinspect mounts, clips, and routing for any interference with exhaust, driveshaft, or suspension.
- Apply cable lubricant to exposed areas and replace any torn boots or bushings.
- Tighten fasteners to specification where available; ensure no binding.

- Signs you should replace the cable instead of adjusting
- Inner cable moves with a jerky motion or is seized in the sheath.
- Visible fraying or broken wire strands.
- Cable end fittings are loose, elongated holes, or missing clips.
- Excessive play persists after multiple proper alignment attempts.
- If replacement is required, replace both cable and any worn mounting bushings/boots to avoid repeating the problem.

- How to use the most critical tools in practical terms
- Ratchet and sockets: fit the correct socket onto the nut, pull the ratchet handle toward you to turn; to avoid rounding nuts, hold socket fully seated and use the correct size.
- Spanners: slide the box end onto the nut, pull using the long part of the handle; avoid using the open end on badly rounded nuts.
- Needle-nose pliers: grip small clips and pull straight outward; bend small tabs back gently rather than ripping plastic.
- Jack and stands: jack at the manufacturer jacking point, raise slowly, place stands under frame, lower jack until weight rests on stands, check stability before going under.

- If you need a replacement cable: what to tell parts counter or order
- Provide vehicle VIN, model year, engine size, transmission type (manual or auto), and whether it’s 2WD or 4WD (if applicable).
- Describe where the cable connects (gear lever to gearbox or transfer case) and take a photo if possible.
- Ask for OEM part number and a matching aftermarket equivalent if cost is a factor.

- Final practical tips
- If unsure about aligning neutral/park index marks, take a photo of the current setup before loosening anything so you can reference original positions.
- Keep small parts and clips in a container so they don’t get lost.
- If shifting is still poor after adjustment or if you detect internal transmission issues (grinding, clunking, or slipping), stop and have a professional inspect — cable adjustment won’t fix internal gearbox problems.

- Short troubleshooting checklist (bullets)
- Shifter feels loose but cable ends and sheath are intact: attempt adjustment.
- Visible cable damage, fraying, seized inner wire: replace cable and associated bushings.
- Shifter matches lever positions after adjustment but transmission behavior is abnormal: possible internal transmission problem; consult a professional.

- Where to get replacement parts and help
- Local Toyota dealer parts department (bring VIN) for correct OEM cable.
- Reputable aftermarket auto parts stores (match part number and check reviews).
- Local independent mechanic if you prefer professional replacement and alignment.

- No-yap summary
- Use basic hand tools, jack/stands, penetrating oil, and light grease; adjust at transmission clamp by aligning selector arm with neutral/park, then tighten; replace cable if frayed, seized, or ends/bushings worn; bring VIN for correct replacement part.
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Tools & consumables
- Floor jack and rated jack stands (2) — use factory jacking point and stands rated ≥ vehicle weight.
- Wheel chocks.
- 1/2" breaker bar and appropriate socket for lug nuts.
- Torque wrench (range to ~150 Nm / 110 ft·lb).
- Socket set (metric), ratchet, extensions.
- Hex/Allen or torx sockets (for caliper guide/slider & bracket bolts — commonly 6 or 8 mm hex or 17–19 mm bolts depending on model year).
- Combination wrenches.
- C‑clamp or dedicated caliper piston tool (for retracting piston).
- Caliper hanger or bungee/zip ties.
- Screwdriver/pry bar (flat blade).
- Hammer or rubber mallet; punch for rotor screw removal.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40).
- Wire brush, emery cloth.
- Brake cleaner.
- High‑temp brake grease / silicone‑based caliper grease and copper anti‑seize.
- Shop rags, gloves, eye protection.
- New rotors (correct OEM or quality aftermarket); brake pads strongly recommended.
- Replacement hardware if specified (caliper bracket bolts, rotor screws, pad clips, guide pin boots).
- Brake bleeding kit only if you open fluid lines or piston replacement required.

Safety precautions (non‑negotiable)
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels opposite axle. Engage parking brake.
- Loosen lug nuts slightly before jacking. Use jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep respirator or work outdoors for brake dust. Avoid compressed air on old pads/rotors.
- Do not let caliper hang by brake hose — support with hanger/bungee.
- If you open hydraulic lines or replace caliper/piston, properly bleed brakes and dispose of fluid safely.

Step‑by‑step rotor replacement (front discs typical)
1) Prep
- Park, chock, set parking brake, slightly loosen lug nuts on wheel to be worked.
2) Lift & remove wheel
- Jack at factory lift point, place jack stands, remove lug nuts and wheel.
3) Inspect
- Note pad thickness, hardware condition, brake hose condition, ABS wiring/sensors.
- If pads are worn unevenly, expect to replace pads and check caliper condition.
4) Remove caliper
- Locate caliper guide/slide bolts (usually on back of caliper). Spray penetrating oil if stiff.
- Remove bolts with appropriate socket/allen. Pull caliper off rotor/bracket. Do NOT let it hang by hose — hang it from suspension with a bungee or hook.
- Remove brake pads from caliper bracket.
5) Remove caliper mounting bracket (if required)
- Many Toyota Hilux setups require removing the caliper mounting bracket to free the rotor. Remove the two bracket bolts and set bracket aside.
6) Remove rotor
- If there’s a small retaining screw on the rotor hat, remove it (Phillips or hex). Often rusted — use penetrating oil, punch and hammer or impact driver.
- If rotor is seized to hub from corrosion, strike the face of the rotor near the hub with a hammer or rubber mallet, or use two bolts threaded into rotor hat holes (if present) to push it off evenly. Apply penetrating oil and work it back and forth.
7) Clean hub
- Remove rust and old material from hub face with wire brush until flat and clean. Ensure rotor sits flush — uneven hub causes runout and vibration.
8) Fit new rotor
- Clean rotor faces with brake cleaner to remove protective oil.
- Slide rotor onto hub. If a retaining screw is present, reinstall lightly (do not over‑tighten).
- Apply a thin coat of copper anti‑seize to hub center (not brake face) to ease future removal.
9) Reinstall bracket & caliper hardware
- Reinstall caliper bracket and torque to factory spec.
- Replace pad hardware clips if corroded. Fit new or old pads (new pads recommended).
- Retract caliper piston: using a C‑clamp or piston tool, slowly press piston back into caliper while monitoring brake fluid reservoir level. If vehicle has internal parking brake on rear calipers, use the correct turning tool.
- Grease guide pins lightly with high‑temp caliper grease and reinstall. Replace boots if damaged.
- Reinstall caliper over pads/bracket; torque caliper bolts to spec.
10) Wheel & torque
- Refit wheel, finger‑tighten lug nuts, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts in a star pattern to factory spec (example range: 100–120 Nm / 74–89 ft·lb — confirm exact spec for your Hilux).
11) Final checks & bed‑in
- Pump brake pedal until firm before moving vehicle (retracting piston may require pumping).
- Check brake fluid level; top off with correct DOT fluid if needed.
- Test for leaks, ensure ABS sensor wires not pinched.
- Bed new pads/rotors: perform gradual stops from ~30–40 mph several times (about 8–10 moderate stops), then allow cooling. Avoid heavy braking for first 200 km.

How specific tools are used
- Breaker bar: initial lug nut removal and stubborn bolts.
- Torque wrench: final tightening of wheel nuts, bracket bolts, caliper bolts to specified torque.
- C‑clamp/piston tool: compresses caliper piston evenly to accept new, thicker pads. Turn piston in vehicles with integrated parking brake mechanism using the special tool.
- Penetrating oil + hammer/punch or impact driver: frees rusted rotor retaining screws or stuck rotor.
- Wire brush/emery cloth: cleans hub mating surface to ensure rotor runs true.
- Caliper hanger/bungee: prevents hose damage from hanging caliper.

Parts commonly replaced / required
- New rotors (matching OEM spec — check min. thickness stamped on rotor).
- Brake pads (strongly recommended to replace whenever rotor is replaced).
- Pad hardware/clips, anti‑rattle shims if corroded.
- Caliper guide pin boots or guide pins if seized.
- Caliper mounting bolts/hardware if single‑use or damaged.
- Brake fluid if topping or bleeding needed; cleaning solvents and anti‑seize.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not cleaning hub surface — leads to rotor runout/vibration. Always clean and deburr.
- Letting caliper hang by hose — causes brake hose damage. Always support caliper.
- Contaminating pad or rotor with grease/oil — will cause noise, poor braking. Use brake cleaner; avoid touching friction surfaces.
- Not replacing pads with rotors — new rotors on old, glazed pads reduces performance and may cause uneven wear.
- Over‑compressing piston causing fluid overflow — monitor reservoir; remove excess fluid first if required.
- Reusing seized rotor screws — strip them; use penetrating oil and appropriate driver or replace screws.
- Insufficient torquing or uneven torque on wheel studs — leads to wheel vibration; always torque in star pattern to spec.
- Failing to bed‑in brakes — leads to glazing and reduced life.
- Not checking ABS sensors/wiring — can be damaged during job; inspect before reassembly.

When to bleed brakes or replace caliper
- If you open a hydraulic line, replace the caliper, or notice spongy pedal after compressing piston, bleed the brake system.
- If caliper piston or guide pins are seized, replace or rebuild caliper.

Notes on specifications
- Torque values vary by Hilux model and year. Use factory manual for exact torque values for wheel nuts, caliper bracket bolts, and caliper bolts. Example wheel torque commonly ~100–120 Nm (74–89 ft·lb) — confirm for your vehicle.

Done.
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