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rteeqp73

- Safety first (must follow these or stop): wear eye protection and gloves; work on a level surface; use good-quality jack stands, not just a jack; disconnect the battery negative terminal before working near the starter/clutch area; support the engine if the gearbox jack will pull the engine slightly.

- Overview of what you will do: drain gearbox oil, remove components that block access (propshaft/drive shafts, starter, linkage, possibly the transfer case or extension housing), remove gearbox or remove the extension housing to reach the leaking seal, remove the old seal, fit the new seal correctly, reassemble, refill with correct gear oil, check for leaks. This job ranges from intermediate to advanced for a complete beginner because of weight, alignment and torque-critical fasteners.

- Common seals on a Toyota Hilux gearbox you may need to replace:
- Input (front) shaft seal — where the clutch/torque comes into the gearbox. Will leak under the bellhousing seal.
- Output (rear) shaft/rear-main seal or extension housing seal — where the gearbox connects to the transfer case or propshaft.
- Selector shaft or small shaft seals — less common but may leak oil.
- If 4x4, transfer case to gearbox seals may also leak.
- Why replacement may be required: seals age and harden, lip wears, housing or shaft scoring can damage the seal lip. If the seal obviously leaks oil, replacement is required. If the shaft or bore is damaged, a new shaft or bore repair (or entire gearbox/extension housing replacement) will be needed because a new seal will not hold on a rough surface.

- Parts you will typically need:
- Correct replacement gearbox seal(s) for your Hilux transmission model and year (match part number at parts counter or from a workshop manual). Do not substitute by size only unless you are sure of the transmission model.
- New gearbox oil (type and quantity per vehicle manual; many Hilux manuals call for GL‑4 gear oil 75W‑90 for manual gearboxes — verify with your model/year).
- New transfer case or extension housing gasket or O‑rings if disturbed.
- Optional but recommended: new gearbox mounting bolts if any are damaged or stretched, and a new pilot bearing / throwout bearing if the gearbox is removed and these are accessible.
- Why these are required: seals and gaskets are wear items and are not reusable; oil must be replaced after seal work; pilot/throwout bearings often show wear and are inexpensive insurance when the gearbox is already out.

- Tools you have (basic) — detailed descriptions and how to use them:
- Metric socket set and ratchet (10–24 mm typical) — a ratchet with a full metric socket set is required to remove bolts. Use the correct socket size to avoid rounding heads. Fit sockets squarely on the bolt and turn with steady force; if tight, use a breaker bar, not excessive jerking.
- Breaker bar / long-handled lever — for loosening seized or high-torque bolts. Place socket square, pull slowly, and be careful not to slip.
- Combination wrench set (metric) — for nuts in tight spots where sockets won't fit. Use box end where possible for better grip.
- Torque wrench (click-type) — required to tighten critical gearbox, engine mount, and prop bolts to correct torque. Set the wrench to the specified value and apply a steady pull until it clicks; stop immediately when it clicks.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — for clips, electrical connectors, small covers. Use the correctly sized tip to avoid cam-out.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint) — for removing cotter pins, clips, hoses, and small parts.
- Hammer and drift/punch set (soft and steel drifts) — a soft-faced hammer or dead blow hammer is preferred; steel drift may be needed to tap out stubborn seals or driveshafts. Use soft-face to protect parts; use punches only on the areas indicated by the manual.
- Pry bar / large flat screwdriver — to separate components such as gearbox flange from bell housing. Be careful not to bend housings; pry evenly.
- Seal puller or hooked pry tool — specifically designed to grab the outer lip of the seal and pull it out. Use the hook to engage the seal lip and lever out gradually, working around the circumference.
- Seal driver / deep socket set (or a seal installation tool kit) — to install the new seal squarely and flush. Choose a socket or tool with the same outer diameter as the seal and gently tap the seal evenly into the bore until flush. A block of wood can be used temporarily but a proper driver prevents damage.
- Transmission jack or floor jack with a wooden block and an assistant — to support and lower the gearbox. A transmission jack is best because it centers and supports the gearbox safely; if you use a floor jack, place a wide block of wood under the gearbox to spread load and have an assistant guide it.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist / support brace — if removing gearbox mounts that also support the engine side, you must support the engine to prevent droop. An engine support bar across the engine bay or a hoist works.
- Drain pan for gearbox oil — to catch oil when you remove the drain plug or open the housing. Use a clean container and dispose of oil correctly.
- Gasket scraper / razor blade and solvent — to clean mating surfaces before reassembly. Use a plastic scraper if possible to avoid scratching.
- Cleaning rags and brake cleaner or parts cleaner — to remove oil and grease before installing new seal.
- Masking tape / marker (optional) — to mark drive flange orientation if you must reassemble in exact alignment.
- Gloves and eye protection — protect hands and eyes from oil and flying debris.

- Extra/professional tools that make the job much easier and why they are required:
- Transmission jack (recommended) — holds heavy gearbox safely and allows precise alignment during removal and refit; a floor jack alone is awkward and dangerous.
- Slide hammer or bearing puller (if bearings or shafts need removal) — to remove pressed-on bearings or seals that won’t come out with a simple puller. Required if seal lip damage has transferred to a shaft and the shaft or bearing must be replaced.
- Hydraulic press (garage) — required for pressing bearings on/off shafts in case seals fail because of worn bearings or shaft damage. If you discover bearing wear you will need press work or a machine shop.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — speeds removal of stubborn bolts (starter bolts, propshaft flange). Not required but useful.
- Workshop manual for the exact Hilux year and gearbox code — gives torque values, disassembly order, fluid capacities, and special instructions. This is essential for correct torque and reassembly.

- Step-by-step procedure (concise, for a complete beginner—follow exactly):
- Prepare vehicle: park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative. Raise vehicle with jack, support securely on jack stands under solid lift points. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Drain gearbox oil: place drain pan under drain plug or remove extension housing filler/drain. Allow oil to drain completely. This reduces weight and mess when opening the gearbox.
- Remove external components blocking access: remove propshaft/drive shafts, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder or release components (do not disconnect hydraulic lines unless you cap them), speedo sensor, shift linkage, and any brackets. Mark linkages if needed for reassembly.
- Support the engine: install engine support bar or use a hoist to take weight if gearbox mounting points are removed.
- Support gearbox: position transmission jack or floor jack under gearbox with a piece of wood spreader. Remove gearbox mount bolts, crossmember bolts and any transfer case bolts (if 4x4 also support/uncouple transfer case).
- Separate gearbox from engine: undo bellhousing bolts, carefully pull gearbox back and lower slightly until input shaft clears pilot bearing. Take care: the gearbox is heavy and awkward. An assistant helps control it.
- Access the leaking seal: for many Hiluxes the seal to replace is in the extension housing or rear of the gearbox. If seal is in place on the gearbox output flange, remove the extension housing or move to gain access.
- Remove the old seal: clean area first. Use a seal puller or small screwdriver and carefully pry out the old seal from the housing, working around the seal to avoid gouging the bore. If the seal is deeply seated or stuck, a hooked seal puller or slide hammer may be needed.
- Inspect shaft and bore: check the shaft for scoring, roughness or pitting and the bore for burrs. Light surface damage can sometimes be smoothed with very fine emery (rarely acceptable). If the shaft is scored, a new seal will likely leak — the shaft or bearing needs replacement.
- Prepare new seal and bore: degrease and dry the bore. Lightly oil the seal lip with clean gearbox oil (thin film) so it slides over the shaft without running dry. Make sure the new seal orientation is correct — the lip faces the oil (toward the inside of the gearbox), the flat outer face toward the outside.
- Install new seal: use a seal driver or a deep socket whose outer diameter matches the seal outer diameter. Place the seal square to the bore and tap evenly with a soft-face hammer until the seal sits flush with the housing face. Do not distort the seal or press it at an angle.
- Reassemble gearbox: clean mating surfaces and install any new gaskets or O‑rings. Lift gearbox carefully with the jack and align input shaft with clutch disc and pilot bearing; use a suitable alignment tool if needed. Tighten bellhousing bolts to specified torque (consult manual) in the correct sequence. Reconnect mounts, crossmember, linkage, sensors, starter, propshafts and any other components.
- Refill gearbox oil: fill to the specified level with the recommended oil type and quantity. Use the filler hole specified in the manual (often fill to the bottom of the filler hole).
- Test and check: run engine and cycle gears (with vehicle safely elevated for manual transmission) to check leaks. Lower vehicle and do a short road test. Recheck oil level and re-torque any fasteners as required.

- How to use the key special tools safely:
- Seal puller: insert hook under seal lip, apply even leverage in small increments around the seal. Don’t gouge the housing; rotate the tool and pull the seal out gradually.
- Seal driver/socket: center the seal on the bore, set the driver square to the housing, and tap evenly around the driver’s face until the seal is flush. Avoid hitting the inner lip or the shaft.
- Torque wrench: wind to the required torque, apply steady force until the wrench clicks, then stop. Do not use torque wrench as a breaker bar.
- Transmission jack: center the gearbox on the jack saddle, secure with strap if available, raise and lower slowly while an assistant guides the gearbox into the bellhousing. Make sure the jack is rated for the gearbox weight.

- Inspection points where replacement beyond the seal may be required:
- Deep scoring or grooves on the shaft — replace shaft or extension housing as required because seals will not hold on damaged surfaces.
- Worn or pitted bearings behind the seal — if bearings are noisy or have play, replace bearings (requires press or machine shop).
- Damaged housing bore — may require machine work or replacement of the housing.
- If transfer case mating surfaces are damaged, you may need transfer case seals/gaskets or replacement parts.

- Fluids and consumables:
- Correct grade gearbox oil — check your Hilux manual. Commonly GL‑4 75W‑90 for manuals; quantity varies by gearbox.
- New gaskets / O‑rings / seals as required.
- Threadlocker for some bolts (check manual). Clean old threadlocker and apply new where specified.
- Brake cleaner / degreaser and rags for clean surfaces.

- Common pitfalls to avoid:
- Don’t reuse an old seal or gasket.
- Don’t install a seal backwards — lip must face fluid.
- Don’t let the gearbox hang unsupported or let the weight bear on the input shaft.
- Don’t under-torque or over-torque critical bolts. Always use a torque wrench for engine/gearbox mounts and bellhousing bolts.
- Don’t drive with the seal leak unaddressed — low gear oil will quickly damage internal components.

- Final notes and recommendations:
- Get the correct workshop manual for your Hilux year and gearbox model before starting — it contains torque values, oil capacities and model‑specific steps.
- If you discover bearing or shaft damage, stop and either get a replacement housing/shaft or take it to a machine shop — a new seal alone will not fix mechanical damage.
- If you are not comfortable lifting and aligning the heavy gearbox, have a professional do the job; improper reassembly can cause major damage.

- Quick checklist to buy before starting:
- Correct gearbox seal(s) for your exact Hilux gearbox
- Correct gearbox oil
- Socket and wrench set, breaker bar, torque wrench
- Seal puller and seal driver (or sockets to match)
- Transmission jack or stout floor jack + wood block + assistant
- Engine support (if required)
- Drain pan, rags, cleaner, new gaskets/O‑rings

No unnecessary commentary — follow these steps and use the correct parts and tool sizes for your Hilux’s gearbox code and year.
rteeqp73