The cylinder head was developed by Yamaha Motor Corporation and was built at Toyota's Shimoyama plant alongside the 4A and 2A engines. The reliability and performance of these engines has earned them a fair number of enthusiasts and a fan base as they are a popular choice for an engine swap into other Toyota cars such as the KE70 and KP61. New performance parts are still available for sale even today because of its strong fan base. Production of the various models of this version lasted for five generations, from May 1983 through 1991 for 16-valve versions and the 20-valve 4A-GE lasting through 1998.
The first-generation 4A-GE which was introduced in 1983 replaced the 2T-G as Toyota's most popular twincam engine.This engine was identifiable via silver cam covers with the lettering on the upper cover painted black and blue, as well as the presence of three reinforcement ribs on the back side of the block. It was extremely light and strong for a production engine using an all-iron block, weighing in at only 123 kg (271 lb) - over fifteen percent reduction compared to 2T-GEU. It was also 4 dB quieter. While originally conceived of as a two-valve design, Toyota and Yamaha changed the 4A-GE to a four-valve after a year of evaluation.The 4A-GE produced 84 kW (112 hp; 114 PS) at 6,600 rpm and 13.4 kgm of torque at 4,800 rpm in the American market. The use of a vane-type air flow meter (AFM), which restricted air flow slightly but produced cleaner emissions that conformed to the U.S. regulations, limited the power considerably - the Japanese model, which uses a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, was originally rated at 94 kW (126 hp; 128 PS). However, this was a gross power rating and the engine was later re-rated at 88 kW (120 hp; 120 PS) net. Nonetheless, Japanese cars tested no faster than their American counterparts despite their higher power rating and a lower curb weight.Toyota designed the engine for performance; the valve angle was a relatively wide 50 degrees, which at the time was believed to be ideal for high power production.Today, more modern high-revving engines have decreased the valve angle to 20 to 25 degrees, which is now believed to be ideal for high-revving engines with high specific power outputs. The first generation 4A-GE is nicknamed the "bigport" engine because it had intake ports of a very large cross-sectional area. While the port cross-section was suitable for a very highly modified engine at very high engine speeds, it caused a considerable drop in low-end torque due to the decreased air speeds at those rpms. To compensate for the reduced air speed, the first-generation engines included the T-VIS feature, in which dual intake runners are fitted with butterfly valves that opened at approximately 4,200 rpm. The effect is that at lower rpm (when the airspeed would normally be slow) four of the eight runners are closed, which forces the engine to draw in all its air through half the runners in the manifold. This not only raises the airspeed which causes better cylinder filling, but due to the asymmetrical airflow a swirl is created in the combustion chamber, meaning better fuel atomization. This enabled the torque curve to still be intact at lower engine speeds, allowing for better performance across the entire speed band and a broad, flat torque curve around the crossover point. During rising engine speed, a slight lurch can occur at the crossover point and an experienced driver will be able to detect the shift in performance. Production of the first-generation engine model lasted through 1987. The second-generation 4A-GE produced from 1987 to 1988 featured larger diameter bearings for the connecting-rod big ends 42 mm (1.65 in) and added four additional reinforcement ribs on the back of the engine block, for a total of seven. The T-VIS feature is maintained and MAP. It is visually similar to the first-generation engine (only the upper cam cover now featured red and black lettering) and the US market power output was only increased to 86 kW (115 hp; 117 PS). The first- and second-generation engines are very popular with racers and tuners because of their availability, ease of modification, simple design, and lightness.
### Replacing the Head Gasket on a Toyota 4A-GE
#### Tools and Materials Needed:
1. **Tools:**
- Socket set (including 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets)
- Torque wrench
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Pliers
- Gasket scraper or razor blade
- Engine hoist (if necessary)
- Timing light (if timing needs adjustment)
- Shop manual (for torque specs and sequence)
2. **Replacement Parts:**
- New head gasket
- Cylinder head bolts (recommended to replace)
- Valve cover gasket (optional, if leaking)
- Intake/exhaust manifold gaskets (if needed)
3. **Safety Precautions:**
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Ensure the engine is cool before starting.
- Disconnect the battery to prevent electrical shorts.
- Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid fumes.
#### Step-by-Step Procedure:
1. **Preparation:**
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Drain the engine coolant by opening the drain plug or removing the lower radiator hose.
2. **Remove Components:**
- Remove the intake manifold:
- Disconnect throttle cables, sensors, and vacuum lines.
- Unbolt and lift off the manifold.
- Remove the exhaust manifold:
- Unbolt from the cylinder head and any attached components (O2 sensor, etc.).
- Remove the valve cover:
- Unbolt and lift it off carefully.
3. **Timing Belt Removal:**
- Mark the timing belt position relative to the cam gear and crankshaft.
- Remove the timing belt by loosening the tensioner and sliding it off the gears.
4. **Head Bolt Removal:**
- Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence (typically from the outside in).
- Remove the head bolts completely and lift off the cylinder head.
5. **Inspecting the Head and Block:**
- Check the cylinder head for warping using a straight edge and feeler gauge.
- Inspect the engine block for any damage or debris.
6. **Cleaning Surfaces:**
- Use a gasket scraper to remove old gasket material from the cylinder head and engine block surfaces.
- Ensure both surfaces are clean and debris-free.
7. **Installing the New Head Gasket:**
- Place the new head gasket onto the engine block, ensuring alignment with dowel pins and keyways.
8. **Reinstalling the Cylinder Head:**
- Carefully place the cylinder head back on the block.
- Install the new head bolts and tighten them by hand first.
9. **Torque the Head Bolts:**
- Using a torque wrench, torque the head bolts in the specified sequence to the manufacturer’s specifications (usually in stages).
10. **Reassembling Components:**
- Reinstall the valve cover with a new gasket.
- Reattach the timing belt, aligning it with the marks made earlier.
- Reinstall the exhaust manifold and intake manifold, replacing gaskets if needed.
11. **Reconnect Everything:**
- Reattach all sensors, cables, and vacuum lines to the intake manifold and exhaust manifold.
- Reinstall the radiator hoses and fill the engine with coolant.
12. **Final Checks:**
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Start the engine and check for leaks.
- Allow the engine to reach operating temperature, then check fluid levels and adjust as necessary.
### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Inadequate Cleaning:** Ensure all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned; leftover gasket material can cause leaks.
- **Improper Torque Sequence:** Always follow the specific torque sequence and specifications to avoid cracking the head.
- **Not Replacing Head Bolts:** It is advisable to replace the head bolts as they may stretch.
- **Ignoring Other Gaskets:** Replace any worn gaskets (intake, exhaust) to prevent future leaks.
- **Overtorqueing:** Use a calibrated torque wrench to avoid damaging components.
Following these steps carefully will help you successfully replace the head gasket on a Toyota 4A-GE engine.
rteeqp73
Short overview (what and why)
- The upper control arm (UCA) is one half of a double-wishbone (double A‑arm) suspension. It locates the wheel vertically and controls camber and caster as the suspension moves. Think of the control arm as the forearm and the ball joint as the elbow — it lets the wheel pivot while holding it in the right position.
- Replace the UCA when bushings are worn, ball joint play exists, the arm is bent/corroded, or if crash damage occurred. Symptoms: clunking over bumps, uneven/rapid tire wear, wandering/loose steering, poor steering return, visible play at the wheel, or failed inspection for ball joint wear.
- Replacing the whole arm is simpler and more reliable than trying to press out bushings or rebuild a rusted ball joint, especially for a beginner.
Components (detailed)
- Upper control arm (UCA) — metal arm (single or double tube) with two pivot points at the chassis and a ball joint on the outer end. May be stamped steel or cast/aluminum.
- Ball joint (sealed or serviceable) — spherical bearing that lets the spindle/knuckle pivot on the arm. Sealed ones are replaced with the arm; serviceable ones can be greased.
- Inner pivot bushings (rubber, urethane, or hydraulic) — at the chassis attachment points. They allow rotation but control lateral/longitudinal compliance.
- Mounting bolts and nuts — hold the arm to the subframe/strut tower and the ball joint to the knuckle. Could include eccentric/adjustment bolts for alignment.
- Castle nut and cotter pin (on many ball joints) — prevents backing off.
- Sway bar link (end link) — often connects to the control arm or strut; may attach to the UCA on some designs.
- Spindle/knuckle — connects to wheel hub and receives ball joint stud.
- Brake caliper, rotor and hub — not part of the arm but will be removed or supported during the job.
- Dust boots, grease fittings — protect and maintain ball joints (may or may not be present).
Tools and consumables
- Wheel chocks, parking brake
- Floor jack and quality jack stands (rated for the vehicle)
- Lug wrench / impact gun
- Torque wrench (range to at least ~150 Nm)
- Sockets / ratchet / breaker bar (metric)
- Open/box wrenches
- Ball joint separator (pickle fork) or ball joint press / tie‑rod separator (side‑cutting)
- Hammer, punch
- Pry bar
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster)
- Wire brush, rags, gloves, safety glasses
- C‑clamp or ball joint press for press-in joints
- Replacement parts: new upper control arm (or ball joint + bushings), new nuts/bolts if recommended, cotter pin, anti‑seize or thread locker as specified
- Brake hanger or bungee to support caliper
- Torque values (factory service manual). If unavailable, use typical ranges and then get alignment checked professionally.
Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on a flat solid surface. Chock rear wheels and use parking brake.
- Loosen wheel lugs slightly before jacking. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle; never rely on the jack alone.
- Support the hub/knuckle before separating the ball joint to avoid putting strain on brake lines and wires.
- Wear eye protection: ball-joint separation can send metal flying.
- If removing a bolt that holds a suspension member, be ready to support the suspension so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly)
Note: this is a general procedure for a Toyota with an upper control arm (double wishbone). Specific bolt locations and torque numbers vary by model — consult the factory shop manual for your vehicle for exact specs.
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, and set the parking brake. Loosen lug nuts a turn while car is on the ground.
- Raise the car at the recommended jacking point, place on jack stands, and remove the wheel.
- Spray penetrating oil on all suspension fasteners (ball joint nut, arm mounting bolts). Let soak.
2) Inspect and document
- Take pictures of the original setup and any alignment eccentric bolts positions (if present) so you can restore approximate alignment.
- Inspect the outer tie rod, sway bar link, brake lines, and dust shields so you know what else you’ll touch.
3) Support the knuckle/hub
- Support the hub/spindle with a stand or a floor jack under the control arm/lower arm so the knuckle does not drop when you separate the ball joint. Don’t let suspension hang by brake hoses.
4) Remove sway bar link / attachments
- If the sway bar end link attaches to the UCA, remove it first. Also unbolt any brackets attached to the arm.
5) Remove the ball joint nut and separate ball joint
- Loosen/remove the castle nut/ball joint nut but do not fully remove until you’re ready to separate (sometimes the stud jams and you want the nut on to allow a hammer shock).
- Use a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. A controlled hammer strike on the knuckle next to the ball joint stud can also release it (don’t hit the stud itself). If the joint is stubborn, heat and penetrating oil help.
- Once separated, swing the knuckle outward to provide clearance.
6) Remove inner pivot bolts
- On the chassis/subframe side, remove the bolts/nuts that hold the UCA pivot. These are usually two bolts and may have eccentric washers if they are used for alignment.
- Support the arm while removing the hardware; the arm may drop.
7) Remove the UCA
- Take the arm out. Compare new vs old for orientation and mounting hardware.
8) Prepare the new arm
- If your new arm has a separate pressed-in ball joint, press it in or install per the part instructions. Many aftermarket arms come complete with ball joint and bushings preinstalled. Install any grease fittings and ensure dust boots are seated.
- Transfer any brackets if needed.
9) Install new arm
- Position new UCA into the chassis and loosely install the pivot bolts/nuts. Do not torque them to final value just yet — many manuals say to torque with vehicle at ride height or with weight on the wheel so bushings aren’t preloaded. If there are eccentric alignment bolts, note their orientation (or set them to the photographed/original position).
- Connect the ball joint to the knuckle. Tighten the ball joint nut to spec and insert cotter pin if required. Confirm correct orientation of split pin.
10) Final torqueing procedure
- If the factory specifies torqueing the inner pivot bolts with the suspension at normal ride height, lower the car onto jack stands or blocks so the wheel is bearing vehicle weight (or carefully lower the suspension with a jack until the control arm is loaded as specified). Many models require the pivot bolts to be torqued with the arm at ride height to avoid preloading bushings — check manual. If uncertain, torque to the specified range in the factory manual; if not available, tighten to a reasonable value and get alignment done promptly.
- Torque pivot bolts, ball joint nut, sway bar link, and any other fasteners to factory specs. Typical ranges: ball joint nut ~70–120 Nm, pivot bolts ~80–150 Nm — but DO NOT rely on these for final values without checking the manual.
11) Reassemble brakes and wheel
- Reattach any brake caliper brackets or sensors. Ensure brake hoses are free of tension.
- Put wheel back on, torque lug nuts to spec with vehicle on ground.
12) Post-install checks
- Lower vehicle fully, torque lug nuts to spec.
- Check for any interference, ensure dust boots on ball joint not pinched.
- Drive slowly and listen/feel for noises. Immediately stop if something feels wrong.
- Get a professional alignment ASAP (toe and camber often change when arms are replaced).
Extra details on bushings and ball joint service
- If replacing only bushings: bushings are interference‑fit. Use hydraulic press or a bushing driver kit to remove/press new ones. Some bushings need to be installed cold, some are easier heated in oil or oven to expand slightly. Replacing bushings without specialized tools is difficult and easy to damage the arm.
- If pressing in a new ball joint: use a ball joint press kit. Follow the press tool instructions. Do not hammer a press-in ball joint unless designed for it — you can deform the joint, knock out studs, or tear seals.
What can go wrong (failure modes and how to detect them)
- Worn bushings: rubber/urethane breakdown causes excess free play and misalignment; detect by visual cracking, grease extrusion, or by prying with a bar and feeling movement.
- Worn/loose ball joint: results in clunking, looseness, and uneven tire wear. Detect by moving wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock and feeling for vertical play or using pry bar between wheel and sway bar.
- Bent arm from impact: causes alignment out of spec and unpredictable handling; visually compare to new part or measure.
- Corrosion seized bolts: can round heads or break bolts. Use penetrating oil, heat, and impact tools; be ready to drill or cut and replace hardware.
- Incorrect torqueing: under-torqued nuts can come loose; over-torqued bolts can stretch or break. Always use proper torque wrench and factory specs.
- Preloaded bushings: torquing pivot bolts with arm hanging can preload bushings and cause premature bushing failure or altered alignment. Follow factory instruction to torque at ride height if required.
- Damaging ABS sensor wires or brake lines when supporting the knuckle — always support the hub before separation.
Testing and follow-up
- Immediately after repair: test drive at low speed and listen for clunks; test braking and steering feel.
- Within 5–10 miles: re-check the torque on all hardware (especially if you used aftermarket parts).
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately — replacing an arm changes camber/toe.
Quick troubleshooting tips
- If after install steering feels wandering: check that inner pivot bolts were torqued and not overtightened, check sway bar links, and get alignment.
- Persistent clunk: recheck ball joint cotter pin, nut torque, and that split pin is properly installed; ensure ball joint stud is fully seated through knuckle.
- New vibration: check wheel torque, wheel balance, and inspect for damaged hub bearing or rotor that was disturbed.
Final notes
- Always obtain the factory service manual (Haynes/Chilton may help but factory is best) for model-specific diagrams and torque specs.
- If you are uncomfortable separating ball joints, use a professional press shop or buy a preassembled replacement arm.
- After replacement, the safe and correct outcome is dependent on correct fastener torque and a post‑repair wheel alignment.
No further questions per your request. Safe wrenching.
rteeqp73
Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches 8–19 mm, Phillips/flat screwdrivers.
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal/external).
- Needle‑nose pliers.
- Hammer, brass drift / punch set.
- Torque wrench (range to ~100 Nm).
- Ball‑joint/rod puller or small slide‑hammer (helpful if seized).
- Bench vise or press (for pressing bushings in/out).
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), wire brush.
- Grease (moly or white lithium), anti‑seize.
- Floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Creeper, work light, safety glasses, gloves.
- Replacement parts: shift linkage bushings (OEM rubber or polyurethane), linkage rod(s) or coupler(s) if damaged, replacement snap rings/circlips, new retaining bolts/nuts if corroded, grease seals if applicable.
Safety precautions (read & follow)
- Work on flat level ground. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Raise vehicle only with jack stands under specified jacking points; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Have good lighting.
- If working under the car, ensure secure stands and keep limbs clear of pinch points.
- Disconnect battery only if you’ll be removing interior trim with airbag connectors nearby; otherwise not strictly necessary.
- Keep small parts (clips, circlips) contained — they fly away easily.
Overview of the job
Most 4A‑GE vehicles (AE86, older Corollas/MR2s) use a mechanical shift linkage made of rods/ball joints and rubber bushings. Repair typically involves removing or separating the linkage from the shift lever and/or transmission, replacing worn bushings or ball-sockets, replacing bent rods or couplers, cleaning/greasing, reassembling and adjusting.
Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Preliminary diagnosis
- Confirm symptoms: excessive play, hard shifting, popping out of gear, inability to select gears.
- With engine off, have an assistant move the shifter through gates while you observe linkage under car and at transmission/top of shifter to locate worn joints/bushings or loose fasteners.
2) Prepare vehicle & gain access
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, engage parking brake.
- Remove center console, shift boot/trim to expose shift lever base (interior side).
- Loosen any shift lever retaining bolts if required to disconnect inner end.
- Raise front of car using floor jack, support on jack stands under subframe/rocker points. Use creeper/light.
3) Locate and inspect linkage
- Locate the shift linkage connection on top/side of transmission (shift rod(s), coupler, pivot bracket).
- Clean the area with wire brush and penetrating oil to reveal fasteners and clips.
4) Disconnect linkage
- With the shifter in neutral, note and mark rod orientation/length or take photo for reference.
- Remove any snap rings/circlips at the ball sockets using snap‑ring pliers. If stuck, apply penetrating oil and tap gently with brass drift.
- If ball joints use a stud with a retaining nut, hold stud with wrench and remove nut; use a small puller or a few quick taps with a hammer/drift to separate joint from lever (do not hit the stud directly with excessive force — use a puller if available).
- For rods fixed with collets/bolts, remove bolts and retain washers/springs.
Tool use notes:
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress and remove circlip from groove on ball stud. Store circlips in container.
- Drift/punch: push out roll pins or stubborn studs; use brass drift to avoid damage.
- Ball‑joint puller: places pressure on joint boot to separate without deforming.
5) Remove linkage assembly
- Remove the rod(s) or coupler assembly from vehicle. Inspect for bends, cracks, corrosion.
- If bushings are pressed in at pivot bracket, remove bracket bolts and take bracket off to access bushing.
6) Replace worn parts
- Replace worn rubber bushings, ball‑sockets, or entire rod/coupler if bent or heavily corroded. OEM rubber bushings or polyurethane upgrades are common.
- Press out old bushings in vise or using a bushing driver and press in new bushings. Grease the new bushings lightly with appropriate grease (do not use petroleum on rubber if OEM rubber is used — use manufacturer‑recommended grease).
- Replace any damaged snap rings, studs or retaining hardware. Apply anti‑seize to threads of bolts if corroded and apply thread locker to bolts where specified.
Tool use notes:
- Bench vise/press: support the linkage and press the bushing straight out to avoid canting; protect part with wood/soft jaws.
- Punch/hammer: only for stubborn roll pins; keep alignment steady to avoid enlarging holes.
7) Reinstall linkage
- Reattach rods/ball joints to transmission and shifter. Ensure ball sockets seat fully on studs and circlips snap into groove.
- Refit any pivot brackets and torque bolts to spec (if you do not have exact torque values, tighten securely but do not over‑torque; refer to service manual for specifics).
- Ensure any split pins, spring washers, or retaining plates are reinstalled.
8) Adjustment and testing
- With vehicle still on stands (wheels chocked), operate shifter through all gears. Check for smooth engagement and full travel into each gear.
- Start engine (if safe) and reconfirm shifting under load (carefully) — ideally road test at low speed to verify correct gear selection and no binding.
- If neutral indexing or stop adjustments are required, adjust linkage length or stop bolts per factory procedure (on many Toyotas you adjust by setting shifter to neutral and aligning linkage end to a reference mark or slot; consult manual for proper method).
9) Reassembly
- Lower vehicle after final checks. Reinstall console/shift boot and tidy any wiring.
- Double‑check that all clips, bolts and hardware are replaced and secured.
Replacement parts commonly required
- Shift linkage bushings (rubber or polyurethane).
- Ball‑socket ends or entire shift rod/coupler assembly.
- Snap rings/circlips, retaining nuts/bolts (if corroded).
- Grease and anti‑seize.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Losing circlips/snap rings: remove carefully and keep them in a tray. Replace with new clips if old ones are deformed.
- Improper bushing installation: pressing bushing in crooked will bind linkage. Use proper driver and press straight.
- Reusing worn ball sockets: can give false “fixed” feeling initially; replace sockets if the ball moves in the cup.
- Over‑tightening pivot bolts: crush rubber bushings or restrict movement — torque to spec.
- Forgetting to check alignment/match reference marks: can result in mis‑indexed neutral and hard shifts.
- Working without supports: never rely on jack alone. Stand failure risks severe injury.
- Skipping lubrication: dry joints will wear quickly; apply proper grease during reassembly.
Time estimate
- Simple bushing replacement: 1–3 hours.
- Full linkage/coupler replacement and adjustment: 3–6 hours depending on access and corrosion.
Final checks
- Test drive through all gears, under light load, and ensure no noises, popping out of gear, or hard shifts.
- Re‑inspect fasteners and clips after a short drive to confirm everything stayed tight.
End.
rteeqp73