The diesel engine (also known as a compression-ignition engine) is an inner combustion engine that uses the heat of compression to initiate ignition and burn the fuel that happens to be injected into the combustion chamber. This contrasts with spark-ignition engines such as a petrol engine (gasoline engine) or gas engine (using a gaseous fuel as opposed to gasoline), which use a spark plug to ignite an air-fuel mixture.
The diesel engine gets the greatest thermal efficiency of any standard internal or external burning engine due to its very high compression ratio. Low-speed diesel machines (as used in ships and various other applications exactly where overall engine weight is relatively unimportant) can have a thermal efficiency that surpasses 50%.
Diesel engines are manufactured in two-stroke and four-stroke versions. They were originally used as a much more efficient replacement for stationary steam engines. Because the 1910s they have been used in submarines and ships. Use in locomotives, trucks, hefty gear and electric generating plants followed later on. In the 1930s, they slowly began to be made use of in a couple of automobiles. Since the 1970s, the use of diesel engines in larger on-road and off-road vehicles in the USA increased. According to the British Society of Motor Manufacturing and Traders, the EU average for diesel cars take into account 50% of the total sold, including 70% in France and 38% into the UK.
Diesel engines have the lowest specific fuel consumption of any large internal combustion engine employing a single cycle, 0.26 lb/hp�h (0.16 kg/kWh) for very large marine engines (combined cycle energy flowers are much more efficient, but employ two engines rather than one). Two-stroke diesels with large pressure forced induction, particularly turbocharging, make up a large percentage of the very largest diesel engines.
In North America, diesel engines are primarily used in large trucks, where the low-stress, high-efficiency period leads to much longer engine life and lower working costs. These advantages also make the diesel engine ideal for use in the heavy-haul railroad environment.
Diesel's original engine injected fuel with the assistance of compressed air, which atomized the fuel and pushed it into the engine through a nozzle (a similar principle to an aerosol spray). The nozzle opening had been closed by a pin valve lifted by the camshaft to initiate the fuel injection before leading dead centre (TDC). This is called an air-blast injection. Driving the three stage compressor used some power but the effectiveness and net power output ended up being even more than any other combustion engine at that time.
Diesel engines in service today raise the fuel to extreme pressures by mechanical pumps and provide it towards the combustion chamber by pressure-activated injectors without compressed air. With direct injected diesels, injectors spray fuel through 4 to 12 small orifices in its nozzle. The early air injection diesels always had a superior burning without the sharp increase in pressure during combustion. Scientific studies are now being performed and patents are being taken out to again use some kind of air injection to reduce the nitrogen oxides and pollution, reverting to Diesel's original implementation with its superior combustion and possibly quieter procedure. In all major aspects, the modern diesel engine keeps true to Rudolf Diesel's original design, that of igniting fuel by compression at an incredibly high pressure within the cylinder. With much higher pressures and high technology injectors, present-day diesel engines make use of the so-called solid injection system used by Herbert Akroyd Stuart for his hot bulb engine. The indirect injection engine could be considered the newest development of these low speed hot bulb ignition engines.
A vital component of all diesel engines is mechanical or digital governor which regulates the idling speed and maximum speed of the engine by controlling the rate of fuel delivery. Unlike Otto-cycle engines, incoming air is not throttled and a diesel engine without a governor cannot have a stable idling speed and can easily overspeed, leading to its destruction. Mechanically governed fuel injection systems are driven by the engine's gear train. These systems use a combination of springs and weights to control gas delivery relative to both load and speed. Modern electronically controlled diesel engines control fuel delivery by use of an electronic control module (ECM) or digital control unit (ECU). The ECM/ECU receives an engine speed signal, since well as various other operating parameters such as intake manifold stress and gasoline temperature, from a sensor and controls the quantity of fuel and start of injection timing through actuators to maximise minimise and power and efficiency emissions. Controlling the timing of the beginning of injection of fuel into the cylinder is a key to minimizing emissions, and maximizing fuel economy (efficiency), of the motor. The timing is measured in degrees of crank angle of the piston before top dead centre. For instance, if the ECM/ECU initiates fuel injection when the piston is 10� before TDC, the start of injection, or timing, is said to be 10� BTDC. Optimal timing will rely on the engine design as well as its load and speed, and is generally 4� BTDC in 1,350-6,000 HP, net, "medium speed" locomotive, marine and stationary diesel engines.
Advancing the start of injection (injecting prior to the piston reaches to its SOI-TDC) results in greater in-cylinder pressure and temperature, and greater efficiency, but also results in increased engine noise due to faster cylinder pressure rise and increased oxides of nitrogen (NOx) formation due to higher burning temperatures. Delaying start of injection causes incomplete combustion, decreased fuel efficiency and an enhance in exhaust smoke, containing a considerable amount of particulate matter and unburned hydrocarbons.
The term Indirect injection, in an internal burning engine, refers to fuel injection where fuel is not directly inserted into the combustion chamber. Gasoline motors are generally equipped with indirect injection systems, wherein a fuel injector delivers the fuel at some time before the intake valve.
An indirect injection diesel engine delivers gasoline into a chamber off the combustion chamber, called a prechamber, where combustion begins and then spreads into the primary combustion chamber. The prechamber is carefully made to ensure sufficient blending of the atomized fuel with the compression-heated air.
The purpose of this divided combustion chamber is to speed up the combustion procedure, to be able to increase the power output by increasing engine rate. The addition of a prechamber, nevertheless, boosts heat loss to the cooling system and thereby lowers engine efficiency. The engine requires glow plugs for starting. In an indirect injection system the environment moves fast, mixing the fuel and environment. This simplifies injector design and enables the employment of smaller engines and less tightly toleranced designs which are simpler to manufacture and much more reliable. Direct injection, by contrast, uses slow-moving atmosphere and fast-moving fuel; both the design and manufacture of the injectors is more difficult. The optimisation of the in-cylinder air flow is much more difficult than designing a prechamber. There is a great deal more integration between the design of the injector and also the engine. Information technology is for this reason that car diesel engines were nearly all indirect injection until the ready accessibility of powerful CFD simulation systems made the adoption of direct shot practical.
Information technology consists of a spherical chamber located in the cylinder head and divided from the engine cylinder by a tangential throat. About 50% of the atmosphere enters the swirl chamber during the compression stroke for the engine, producing a swirl. After combustion, the products return through the exact same throat to the main cylinder at much higher velocity. So more heat loss to walls of the passage takes place. This kind of chamber finds application in engines in which fuel control and engine stability are more important than fuel economy. These are Ricardo chambers.
The air cell is a small cylindrical chamber with a hole in a single end. It is mounted more or less coaxially with the injector, said axis being parallel to the piston crown, with the injector firing across a small cavity which is available to the cylinder into the hole within the conclusion of the air cellular. The air cellular is mounted therefore as to minimise thermal contact with the mass associated with the head. A pintle injector with a slim spray pattern is used. At TDC the vast majority of the charge mass is contained in the cavity and air cell.
When the injector fires, the jet of fuel enters the air cell and ignites. This leads to a jet of flame shooting back out of the air cell directly into the jet of fuel still issuing from the injector. The turbulence and heat give excellent gas vaporisation and blending properties. Also since the majority of the combustion requires place outside the environment cell within the cavity, which communicates directly utilizing the cylinder, there is much less temperature loss involved in transferring the burning charge to the cylinder.
Air cell injection can be looked at as a compromise between direct and indirect injection, gaining a few of the efficiency advantages of direct injection while retaining the ease and simplicity of development of indirect injection.
Indirect injection is much less complicated to design and manufacture; less injector development is required and the shot challenges are low (1500 psi/100 bar versus 5000 psi/345 bar and higher for direct injection)
The reduced stresses that indirect injection imposes on internal components imply that it is possible to produce petrol and indirect injection diesel variations of the same basic engine. At best such types differ only in the cylinder head and the demand to fit a distributor and spark plugs in the petrol version whilst fitting a shot pump and injectors to the diesel. Examples are the BMC A-Series and B-Series engines together with Land Rover 2.25/2.5-litre 4-cylinder types. Such styles allow petrol and diesel versions of the same vehicle to be built with minimal design modifications between them.
Higher engine speeds can be reached, since burning continues in the prechamber.
In cold weather condition, high speed diesel engines can be difficult to start because the mass of the cylinder block and cylinder head absorb the heat of compression, preventing ignition as a result of the higher surface-to-volume proportion. Pre-chambered engines make usage of small electric heaters inside the pre-chambers called glowplugs, while the direct-injected engines have these glowplugs in the combustion chamber.
Many engines use resistive heaters within the intake manifold to warm the inlet air for starting, or until the motor reaches running temperature. Engine block heaters (electric resistive heaters in the motor block) connected to the utility grid are used in cold environments whenever an engine is turned off for extended periods (more than an hour), to reduce startup engine and time wear. Block heaters are also used for emergency power standby Diesel-powered generators which must rapidly pick up load on an energy failure. In the past, a wider variety of cold-start methods were used. Some engines, such as Detroit Diesel engines used a system to present small amounts of ether into the inlet manifold to start burning. Others used a mixed system, with a resistive heater burning methanol. An impromptu method, particularly on out-of-tune motors, is to manually spray an aerosol can of ether-based motor starter fluid into the intake air flow (usually through the intake air filter assembly).
Most diesels are now turbocharged and some are both turbo charged and supercharged. Because diesels do not have fuel in the cylinder before combustion is initiated, one or more bar (100 kPa) of air can be loaded in the cylinder without preignition. A turbocharged engine can produce significantly more energy than a naturally aspirated engine of the same configuration, as having more air in the cylinders allows more fuel to be burned and thus more power to be produced. A supercharger is powered mechanically by the engine's crankshaft, while a turbocharger is powered by the engine exhaust, not requiring any mechanical energy. Turbocharging can enhance the fuel economy of diesel engines by recovering waste heat from the exhaust, increasing the excess air factor, and increasing the ratio of engine output to friction losses.
A two-stroke engine does not have a discrete exhaust and intake stroke and thus is incapable of self-aspiration. Therefore all two-stroke engines must be fitted with a blower to charge the cylinders with air and assist in dispersing exhaust gases, a procedure referred to as scavenging. Sometimes, the engine may additionally be fitted with a turbocharger, whose output is directed into the blower inlet.
A few styles employ a hybrid turbocharger (a turbo-compressor system) for scavenging and asking the cylinders, which device is mechanically driven at cranking and low speeds to act as a blower, but which will act as a true turbocharger at higher speeds and loads. A hybrid turbocharger can revert to compressor mode during instructions for large increases in engine output power.
As supercharged or turbocharged engines produce more power for a given engine dimensions as compared to naturally aspirated attention, engines must be compensated to the mechanical design of components, lubrication, and cooling to handle the power. Pistons are usually cooled with lubrication oil sprayed on the bottom of the piston. Large engines may use sea, water water, or oil supplied through telescoping pipes attached to the crosshead.
As with petrol engines, there are two classes of diesel engines in current use: two-stroke and four-stroke. The four-stroke kind is the "classic" variation, tracing its lineage back to Rudolf Diesel's prototype. It is additionally the most frequently used form, becoming the preferred power source for many motor vehicles, especially trucks and buses. Much larger engines, such as useful for railway locomotion and marine propulsion, are often two-stroke units, offering an even more favourable power-to-weight ratio, in addition to better fuel economic climate. The most powerful engines in the world are two-stroke diesels of mammoth dimensions.
Two-stroke diesel engine procedure is similar to that of petrol counterparts, except that fuel is not mixed with air before induction, and the crankcase does not take an active role in the period. The traditional two-stroke design relies upon a mechanically driven positive displacement blower to recharge the cylinders with air before compression and ignition. The charging process also assists in expelling (scavenging) combustion fumes continuing to be from the previous power stroke.
The archetype of the modern form of the two-stroke diesel is the (high-speed) Detroit Diesel Series 71 motor, developed by Charles F. "Boss" Kettering and his colleagues at General Motors Corporation in 1938, in which the blower pressurizes a chamber in the engine block that is usually referred to as the "air box". The (extremely much larger medium-speed) Electro-Motive Diesel motor is used as the prime mover in EMD diesel-electric locomotive, marine and stationary applications, and was developed by the same team, and is built to the same principle. However, a significant improvement constructed into most later EMD engines is the mechanically-assisted turbo-compressor, which provides charge air utilizing mechanical assistance during starting (thereby obviating the necessity for Roots-blown scavenging), and provides charge air using an exhaust gas-driven turbine during normal operations—thereby providing true turbocharging and additionally increasing the engine's power output by at least fifty percent.
In a two-stroke diesel engine, as the cylinder's piston approaches the bottom dead centre exhaust ports or valves are opened relieving many of the excess pressure after which a passage between the air box and the cylinder is opened, permitting air flow into the cylinder. The environment movement blows the remaining combustion gases from the cylinder—this is the scavenging process. Because the piston passes through bottom centre and starts up, the passageway is closed and compression commences, culminating in fuel injection and ignition. Refer to two-stroke diesel engines for more detailed coverage of aspiration types and supercharging of two-stroke diesel engines.
Normally, the number of cylinders are used in multiples of two, although any number of cylinders can be used as long as the load on the crankshaft is counterbalanced to prevent excessive vibration. The inline-six-cylinder design may be the many respected in light- to medium-duty engines, though small V8 and larger inline-four displacement engines are also common. Small-capacity engines (generally considered to be those below five litres in capacity) are generally four- or six-cylinder kinds, with the four-cylinder being the most common type found in automotive utilizes. Five-cylinder diesel engines have actually also already been created, becoming a compromise between the sleek running of the six-cylinder and the space-efficient dimensions of the four-cylinder. Diesel engines for smaller sized plant machinery, ships, tractors, generators and pumps may be four, three or two-cylinder types, with the single-cylinder diesel engine remaining for light stationary work. Direct reversible two-stroke marine diesels need at least three cylinders for reliable restarting forwards and reverse, while four-stroke diesels need at least six cylinders.
The need to enhance the diesel engine's power-to-weight ratio produced several novel cylinder arrangements to draw out more power from an offered ability. The uniflow opposed-piston engine uses two pistons in a single cylinder with the combustion cavity in the centre and gas in- and outlets at the ends. This makes a comparatively powerful, light, swiftly running and economic engine suitable for use in aviation. An example is the Junkers Jumo 204/205. The Napier Deltic engine, with three cylinders arranged in a triangular formation, each containing two opposed pistons, the whole engine having three crankshafts, is among the better known.
### Suspension Spring Seat Repair on Toyota 2H 12H-T
#### Theory Behind the Suspension Spring Seat
1. **Function of the Spring Seat**: The spring seat is a critical component in the suspension system that supports the coil spring. It ensures proper alignment and positioning of the spring, allowing it to absorb shocks and maintain vehicle stability.
2. **Common Faults**: Over time, the spring seat can wear out, crack, or become corroded due to environmental exposure and stress from the suspension system. This can lead to improper spring seating, increased noise, vibrations, and compromised vehicle handling.
3. **Mechanics of the Repair**: Repairing the spring seat restores its structural integrity, ensuring that the coil spring remains securely positioned. This helps in maintaining the intended suspension geometry, improves ride quality, and enhances overall vehicle safety.
#### Repair Process
1. **Assessment**: Inspect the spring seat for signs of wear, cracks, or corrosion. Determine if it can be repaired or if replacement is necessary.
2. **Disassembly**: Safely lift the vehicle and remove the wheel and any components obstructing access to the spring seat.
3. **Spring Removal**: Carefully decompress the coil spring using a spring compressor. This prevents injury and allows for safe removal of the spring from the seat.
4. **Repairing the Seat**:
- **Welding**: If the spring seat is cracked, welding may be performed to restore its shape and strength. This involves cleaning the area, applying a weld to the cracks, and grinding the surfaces for a smooth finish.
- **Reinforcement**: In cases of significant wear, additional metal may be added to reinforce the seat. This enhances its load-bearing capacity.
- **Corrosion Treatment**: Treat any rust or corrosion with a wire brush or grinder and apply rust-inhibiting paint or sealant to prevent future deterioration.
5. **Reinstallation**: Once the repair is complete, reassemble the suspension components. Ensure that the spring is properly seated in the repaired spring seat and that all fasteners are torqued to specifications.
6. **Testing**: Lower the vehicle and conduct a test drive to ensure that the repair has restored proper function. Listen for any abnormal noises and check for stability and ride quality.
### Conclusion
Repairing the suspension spring seat on a Toyota 2H 12H-T involves restoring its structural integrity to support the coil spring effectively. This ensures that the suspension system operates as designed, mitigating issues such as misalignment, noise, and compromised handling. By reinforcing or welding the spring seat and addressing corrosion, the repair enhances the longevity and performance of the suspension system.
rteeqp73
- Safety first
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Work with engine off and key removed; wait for hot parts to cool.
- Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Keep loose clothing/jewelry away from moving parts when you test-run the engine.
- If you will run the engine to check adjustments, stand clear of belts, pulleys, and fan; be ready to shut it off immediately.
- Basic tools you need (each tool explained and how to use it)
- Metric combination wrench set (open-end + box-end)
- Description: several sizes (typically 8–19 mm) with one open jaw and one closed loop end.
- Use: hold nuts or turn fasteners where sockets won’t fit; box end gives better grip on rounded bolts.
- Metric socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Description: sockets (6–24 mm typical), 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet and extensions.
- Use: faster removal/tightening of nuts and bolts on linkage, throttle bracket, and pump; extension reaches into tight spots.
- Adjustable wrench (crescent)
- Description: one jaw adjustable to grip various sizes.
- Use: temporary holds or odd-size fasteners; avoid as primary if you have correct metric wrenches.
- Long-nose pliers
- Description: slim pointed pliers for gripping small parts.
- Use: remove/install split pins, R-clips, bend small tabs, hold clevis pins.
- Slip-joint pliers (channel-lock)
- Description: adjustable-jaw pliers for larger grips.
- Use: hold or turn larger components, bend tabs.
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Description: standard hand screwdrivers.
- Use: remove small clamps, covers, adjust stop screws if slotted heads exist.
- Wire cutters / diagonal cutters
- Description: cut wires, cotter pins, cable ties.
- Use: remove old clips, zip-ties holding cable routing.
- Small hammer (ball-peen or machinist) and drift/punch
- Description: light hammer and a metal punch.
- Use: tap out seized clevis pins or bushings gently.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40)
- Description: spray to loosen rusted/seized parts.
- Use: soak stuck bolts, pins, and link pivots before attempting removal.
- Grease or lithium grease & small brush
- Description: general-purpose grease for joints.
- Use: lubricate pivot points and cable ends after adjustment.
- Tape measure or ruler
- Description: small measuring tape or ruler.
- Use: measure pedal travel and throttle lever travel if specified.
- Flashlight or inspection light
- Description: handheld light for seeing under dash and engine bay.
- Use: inspect link joints, cable routing, and fasteners.
- Safety wire or spare R-clips / cotter pins
- Description: small retaining hardware.
- Use: replace any damaged clips that hold clevis pins.
- Optional / sometimes required specialty tools (why they might be needed)
- Torque wrench
- Why: if you remove mounting bolts that require a torque spec (helps prevent breakage). Not strictly necessary for simple linkage adjustments but good practice.
- Small feeler gauge set
- Why: to set precise free-play if a spec exists; otherwise you can use a small known gap or tactile feel.
- Replacement throttle cable (OEM or equivalent)
- Why: if existing cable is frayed, kinked, rusted, or binds — replacement is safer than repair.
- Replacement clevis pins, bushings, or linkage rod (OEM or aftermarket)
- Why: worn bushings or oval pins cause sloppy or sticky response; replacement restores smooth, precise movement.
- Parts that commonly need replacement and why (how to identify)
- Throttle/accelerator cable
- Why replace: frayed wire, kink, heavy corrosion, inner wire binding, cable sheath split.
- Identify: visible damage, stiff movement when you move the cable by hand, or if pedal moves but throttle at pump doesn’t.
- Clevis pins, cotter pins, R-clips
- Why replace: bent, corroded, or missing retainers cause unsafe connection.
- Identify: missing clip, or pin that’s loose or has excessive play.
- Linkage bushings (rubber or metal bushings)
- Why replace: worn bushings cause slop, misalignment, or binding.
- Identify: play at joints, noisy movement, uneven travel.
- Return spring (throttle spring)
- Why replace: weak or broken spring causes slow return or hanging throttle.
- Identify: slow pedal return or throttle sticking open.
- Throttle lever or linkage rod (if bent)
- Why replace: bent parts cause incorrect travel or binding.
- Identify: visibly bent parts, uneven movement, or rubbing against housing.
- Procedure — inspect and adjust accelerator linkage (beginner-friendly, do not modify governor limit)
- Prepare: ensure parking brake on, battery key removed, engine cool.
- Visual inspection:
- Follow cable from pedal through the firewall to the engine; look for frays, kinks, or broken sheath.
- Inspect all pivots where the cable or rod attaches (pedal, firewall bracket, pump lever). Look for missing clips, rusted pins, or worn bushings.
- Check throttle return spring for tension and intact hooks.
- Free the area if needed:
- Remove any covers or air cleaner parts blocking access using screwdrivers or sockets.
- Spray penetrating oil on any corroded pins and let sit a few minutes.
- Test pedal movement by hand:
- With engine off, press pedal and watch the pump lever or throttle mechanism move smoothly; note any sticking or lag.
- Lubricate pivots:
- Use a little grease on pivot points and cable end fittings; do not saturate engine areas.
- If cable end is dry or rusted, work a little penetrating oil, then grease once freed.
- Adjust cable slack (typical method — adapt to your exact linkage layout):
- Find the cable adjuster — often at the firewall or at the pump bracket: a threaded adjuster with a locknut or small clevis with an adjusting nut.
- Loosen the locknut with two wrenches (one to hold, one to turn).
- Pull slack out by turning the adjuster so the inner wire takes up the slack until pedal freeplay is small but not binding.
- Aim for a small amount of pedal freeplay (a few millimetres) so the throttle is fully closed at rest but not tight against the stop; if you have no spec, adjust until there is smooth return and the engine idles consistently.
- Tighten the locknut while holding the adjuster to prevent movement.
- Check idle stop and full-throttle stop:
- Identify the idle stop screw on the pump or throttle body; ensure it gently contacts the lever at idle and that engine returns to idle when pedal released.
- Do not tamper with internal governor adjustments. If a maximum speed stop exists, ensure it is set so the throttle cannot over-travel and cause over-revving; if you cannot identify safe positions, leave factory stops as-is.
- Test linkage under power (CAUTION):
- Reconnect battery key, start engine in a safe, ventilated area.
- With someone ready to shut it off (or stand clear), slowly press the pedal and watch the pump/throttle lever for smooth movement and full return.
- Check for any sticking, jerky movement, or unexpected engine revving.
- If pedal feels spongy or engine revs then hangs, stop engine and re-inspect return spring and cable routing.
- Final checks:
- After confirming good operation, tighten all fasteners and replace any cotter/R-clips with new ones.
- Secure cable routing away from hot/exhaust parts using existing clamps or zip-ties.
- Reinstall any covers removed.
- How to use specific tools in these steps (quick practical notes)
- Wrenches/sockets: choose the correct metric size; turn clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen (righty-tighty, lefty-loosey). Use the box end on stubborn bolts to avoid rounding.
- Ratchet: engage socket on bolt, pull handle to turn; use short strokes in tight spaces.
- Pliers: grip small clips and pull straight out; long-nose for precision; do not twist cotter pins—straighten and pull.
- Penetrating oil: spray on rusted pins, wait 5–15 minutes, then try removal again.
- Punch and hammer: place punch on the end of stuck pin and tap lightly—don’t smash; use increasing force only if necessary.
- Grease: apply small amount to pivot surfaces; wipe excess to avoid attracting dirt.
- When to replace parts rather than adjust (clear reasons)
- Replace the throttle cable if inner wire is frayed, kinked, or cable binds when you operate it by hand.
- Replace clevis pins, R-clips, or cotter pins if corroded, bent, or missing—these are cheap and critical for safety.
- Replace bushings if there is excessive play or if pivot holes are elongated; worn bushings cause inconsistent throttle response.
- Replace the return spring if it doesn’t pull the throttle closed quickly and reliably.
- Replace any bent linkage rod or lever that contacts housings or causes binding — a bent part will continue to cause problems.
- Parts suggestions (typical)
- OEM throttle/accelerator cable for your vehicle model (match part number or exact length/ends).
- Clevis pin set or universal throttle pin kit (various diameters).
- Assorted R-clips / cotter pins.
- Small rubber or polymer bushings where link attaches (check local Toyota supplier or aftermarket kit).
- Throttle return spring (matching length/tension).
- General-purpose lithium grease and penetrating spray.
- Troubleshooting quick guide (if problem persists)
- Pedal moves but pump lever does not: cable broken inside sheath or disconnected; replace cable.
- Throttle sticks open or slow return: weak/broken spring or cable snagging; replace spring or re-route cable.
- Excessive freeplay after adjustment: worn bushings, elongated holes, or stretched cable; inspect and replace worn parts.
- Jerky or uneven movement: rusted pivots or contaminated cable; clean, apply penetrating oil, free the joint, then grease.
- Final safety reminder
- Never remove or defeat the governor limiting devices to increase maximum engine speed — this risks engine damage and unsafe operation.
- If you are unsure about any step, or if parts are badly corroded or the injection pump lever looks damaged, have a professional mechanic inspect and repair.
- If you need replacement parts and want to purchase:
- Get the exact part numbers or bring the old parts to a parts store; match the cable ends and lengths precisely to the Toyota 2H / 12H-T application.
No yapping — follow the steps above carefully.
rteeqp73
Overview (what you’re doing and why)
- The “strut mount” (top mount) sits at the top of a MacPherson strut assembly and attaches the strut to the vehicle body. It isolates noise/vibration, locates the strut, and (when equipped) contains a bearing that lets the strut rotate as you steer.
- If the mount or bearing wears, you get clunks, steering stiffness, uneven tyre wear, and transferred vibration—so replacement restores NVH (noise/vibration/harshness) control and steering feel.
- Analogy: the strut is a shock absorber with a built-in support column and a big spring. The mount is the pillow and lazy-susan at the top: it cushions and lets the strut turn smoothly. The spring is a compressed storage of energy; the spring compressor is like a clamp that holds that energy while you change parts. Never release that energy uncontrolled.
Important safety notes (read and follow)
- Use a quality spring compressor made for coil springs and follow its instructions exactly. A spring under load can kill or maim if it comes loose.
- Work on a flat level surface, chock wheels, use rated jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe footwear if available.
- If any bolts are badly corroded or you suspect seized parts, allow extra time and consider penetrating oil / heat / professional help. Don’t apply unsafe force.
- After reassembly, get a professional wheel alignment.
Parts and tools (every component you’ll encounter)
Parts to buy:
- Strut mount kit (mount, rubber cushion, bearing if separate, top nut(s)). If the strut is old/leaky/soft, replace the entire strut.
- New strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts and top nuts if recommended (often good practice to replace any heavily corroded hardware).
- New sway bar link hardware or brake line bracket bolts if worn.
Tools:
- Floor jack and rated jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or impact for wheel nuts
- Metric socket/ratchet set, extensions
- Torque wrench (capable of listed torques)
- Breaker bar
- Spring compressor (safety-rated)
- Strut nut socket or deep socket sized to strut shaft nut
- Open-end wrenches
- Punch/hammer and possibly ball joint separator / pickle fork depending on knuckle
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Pliers, screwdrivers
- Bench vise (helpful)
- Wire ties/zip ties to hold brake lines/sensors
- Anti-seize or thread locker (follow spec)
Components described (what each does)
- Strut assembly: contains the damper (shock), piston rod (strut shaft), coil spring around the damper.
- Coil spring: supports vehicle weight and stores energy; mounts between lower spring seat and upper spring seat on the strut/strut mount.
- Dust boot / bump stop: protect damper shaft from dirt and limit travel to prevent damage.
- Strut mount (top mount): rubber piece that cushions and mounts to body. May include a bearing.
- Bearing (if separate): allows rotation — like a “lazy susan” so the top of the strut can turn relative to the body during steering.
- Top nut: secures strut shaft to mount.
- Lower strut bolts: fasten strut to steering knuckle.
- Sway bar end link bracket / brake line bracket / ABS sensor wire: often attached to the strut — must be disconnected and reattached.
- Steering knuckle: where the strut bolts into the hub assembly; supports wheel/brake.
Theory of failure (what goes wrong and why)
- Rubber degrades with heat/age: gets hard, cracks—reduces damping of vibration and causes clunking.
- Bearing wear: makes steering feel rough, causes groaning or binding during turn-in.
- Corrosion or broken studs/threads: prevents secure attachment or makes removal difficult.
- Strut wear (damping failure, leaks): changing only the mount on a worn strut yields limited benefit — strut should be inspected and likely replaced if old.
Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly, follow carefully)
Preparation:
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
2. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on the ground.
Lifting and wheel removal:
3. Raise vehicle with jack at designated jacking point. Place on rated jack stands. Never rely on jack alone.
4. Remove the wheel.
Disconnect items attached to the strut:
5. Locate and remove small bolts/clips that secure brake hose/ABS wiring to the strut. Tie the line out of the way (don’t let it hang under tension). Label or note positions.
6. Remove the sway bar end link from the strut if it’s attached (or at the sway bar end) to free the strut.
7. If there’s a stabilizer bracket or other bracket on the strut, remove it.
Separate the strut from the steering knuckle:
8. Support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent it from dropping—use a second jack or pry support.
9. Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (these are often two large bolts). Apply penetrating oil first if rusty. Use a breaker bar as needed. You may need to separate the bottom of the strut from the knuckle with a mallet or ball joint separator; be careful not to damage CV axle or tie rod.
Access top strut nuts:
10. Open the hood. Locate the strut top mount nuts in the engine bay (three-ish studs with nuts). You may need to turn the wheel full lock for access depending on vehicle layout.
11. While holding the strut from below (so it doesn’t fall when top nuts are removed), remove the top nuts. Keep track of any rubber isolator and bearing.
Remove strut assembly:
12. Carefully lower the knuckle and slide the strut out from the wheel well. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
Compress the spring and disassemble the strut:
13. Secure the strut assembly in a bench vise or on a stable surface clamped by the strut housing (not the shaft). Install a quality spring compressor on the coil spring according to its instructions. Tighten compressors a little at a time, alternating sides evenly until spring tension is fully removed from the top mount. Verify spring is held tight; give it a visual check.
14. With spring safely compressed, remove the top center nut on the strut shaft (this often requires holding the shaft with an Allen key or a strut shaft holder while using the socket). Remove washers, bearing, and old mount. Note orientation of parts as you remove them.
Inspect components:
15. Check the spring seat, dust boot, bump stop, strut shaft for wear/damage or leaks. Replace bump stop/dust boot if damaged. Replace the strut if leaking or poor damping.
Install new mount/bearing:
16. Assemble new mount and bearing in the exact orientation the old one came off. Grease bearing lightly if specified. Slide the top nut on and tighten to the specified torque while the spring is compressed so the spring is preloaded properly. Make sure any washer or thrust plate is correctly oriented.
Reassemble strut assembly:
17. Slowly and evenly decompress the spring, keeping it aligned in the seats. Ensure the spring seats correctly on lower and upper perches. Remove compressors after fully released. Spin the assembly by hand to check for binding and correct bearing operation.
Reinstall strut into vehicle:
18. Maneuver the strut back into wheel well. Start the top nuts by hand to hold it in place but do not fully torque yet (but keep them snug to avoid dropping).
19. Reattach the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts. With the vehicle at normal ride height (some recommend supporting the knuckle so the suspension has normal droop), torque lower bolts to spec. Note: Re-torquing some bolts should be done with the suspension loaded; follow repair manual guidance.
Reconnect lines and hardware:
20. Reattach sway bar link, brake hose brackets, ABS sensor wiring. Replace any clips or bolts removed.
Wheels and final steps:
21. Refit the wheel, lower the car to the ground, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
22. Torque top strut nuts to factory specification from under the hood. Torque lower strut bolts to spec (if not already done). Use a torque wrench and specified values from the factory manual.
23. Test drive carefully at low speed to listen for noises. Then get a professional wheel alignment.
Typical torque ranges (example — confirm with factory manual)
- Top strut nut: 30–55 Nm (22–41 ft·lb) + possible additional angle; check manual.
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts: 100–200 Nm (74–148 ft·lb) — large variation by model.
These are examples only — consult the vehicle’s workshop manual for precise numbers for your model and year.
Common pitfalls and what can go wrong (and how to avoid)
- Unsafe spring compressor use: compressor slipping can launch a spring — always use correct tool and inspect it before use.
- Reinstalling bearing/mount backwards: match orientation to original; incorrect orientation causes binding or steering noise.
- Not supporting knuckle: if strut is removed without supporting, CV/tie-rod stresses or brake line damage can occur.
- Over-torquing or under-torquing: can strip threads or allow movement; use torque wrench to factory specs.
- Forgetting to reattach brackets/sensors: leads to rubbing lines or broken ABS wires.
- Reusing badly corroded bolts: they may fail; consider replacing seized hardware.
- Failing to align: steering pull and uneven tyre wear if alignment is not performed after suspension work.
When to replace the whole strut
- If damper is leaking oil, or the strut no longer controls bounce (car bounces excessively), replace the whole strut. Otherwise you can replace only mount/bearing.
Final checks after repair
- Confirm all fasteners torqued to spec.
- Check that the spring is seated and dust boot/bump stop are in place.
- Ensure brake hose/ABS harness have slack and are secured away from moving parts.
- Professional alignment.
Concise troubleshooting for noises after replacement
- Clunk on bump: check lower bolts torque and that spring seat is correct.
- Groan/ride stiffness in steering: likely bearing oriented wrong or defective.
- Vibrations: check mount torque and wheel balance/alignment.
That’s the full procedure in beginner-friendly detail. Follow safety steps exactly, consult the factory repair manual for model-specific torque values and any special steps for Toyota’s vehicle (2H/12H-T engine doesn’t change strut procedure, but chassis details and torque values can). After this job, have an alignment performed.
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