Short summary first: a gearbox (manual transmission) shaft seal keeps gear oil inside the transmission while the shafts rotate. Replacing it usually means removing the transmission (or at least dropping the tailshaft/driveshaft) to access and swap the old radial lip seal for a new one, then reinstalling and checking for leaks. Below is a beginner-friendly, detailed walk-through: why seals fail, how the system works, every part you’ll see, what can go wrong, required tools/parts, and a clear step-by-step procedure with practical tips.

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Use quality jack stands under the frame — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone. Block wheels.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Disconnect the battery negative.
- Drain fluids into a proper container and dispose of them properly.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby when working with solvents/cleaners.

What the seal does (theory, simple)
- A gearbox (manual trans) contains gears running in oil. Where rotating shafts leave the cast-iron/ aluminum case you have a radial shaft seal (lip seal) pressed into the case.
- The seal’s inner lip rides on the shaft and, with a small spring behind the lip, forms a tight barrier that keeps oil in while allowing the shaft to rotate. Think of it like the rubber gasket around a faucet stem: water needs to stay inside the faucet, but the stem still moves.
- Seals fail because rubber hardens/crumbles with age, oil contamination, heat cycling, corrosion or a scored shaft. Excessive internal pressure (blocked venting) can also push oil past the lip.

Which seal(s) you may replace on a Toyota 22R / 22R‑E manual gearbox
- Input (front) shaft seal — between bellhousing/transmission and the clutch/flywheel area.
- Output (rear) shaft seal — at the driveshaft flange or differential/transfer interface (depends on which end is leaking).
- Speedometer drive seal (less common).
This guide focuses on the common case: replacing the input shaft seal (most often replaced with transmission removed). The same principles apply to output seals — access differs.

Parts and components you’ll see and what they do
- Engine block / bellhousing: bellhousing mates the engine to the transmission and encloses the clutch.
- Flywheel (or flexplate): bolted to the crankshaft; clutch disc clamps against it.
- Clutch assembly:
- Clutch disc (friction disc): transfers engine torque to the transmission input shaft.
- Pressure plate: clamps the clutch disc to the flywheel.
- Throw-out bearing (release bearing): presses on the pressure plate fingers to disengage the clutch.
- Clutch fork: moves the throw-out bearing.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: supports the input shaft tip inside the crankshaft/flywheel.
- Transmission case (gearbox): houses gears, shafts, bearings.
- Input shaft: the rotating shaft that receives engine torque through the clutch and goes into the gearbox. The input shaft passes through the front (input) seal.
- Output shaft(s): send power out to driveshaft(s). Output seals keep oil inside at the rear.
- Radial lip seal: the replaceable rubber/metal seal pressed into the gearbox housing. It has a garter spring to keep lip tension. Orientation matters: the lip faces the fluid.
- Bearings and synchros: support shafts and allow gear engagement; visible when transmission is open or when input shaft is removed.
- Shift linkage/cables, driveshaft, crossmember, starter motor, slave cylinder (or clutch cable): all attach to or interfere with transmission removal.

Common reasons seals leak (what can go wrong)
- Worn/ripped/hardened sealing lip (age, heat, contamination).
- Shaft damage (nicks, deep grooves) that prevents proper sealing. If shaft is grooved, a new seal may still leak—shaft repair or sleeve may be needed.
- Seal installed backwards or not fully seated. The lip must face the oil.
- Using the wrong seal ID/OD or thickness (size matters).
- Not replacing pilot bearing if it’s failed — extra play can damage the new seal.
- Overtightened or stripped bellhousing bolts leading to misalignment.
- Unvented transmission causing pressure build-up and pushing oil past seal.
- Using petroleum-based sealants that degrade rubber (use recommended products only).
- Not replacing related gaskets or cleaning mating surfaces → leak paths.

Tools and materials (basic + specific)
- Garage manual for your truck (recommended for torque specs and model-specific notes).
- Floor jack + quality jack stands + wheel chocks.
- Transmission jack or second floor jack with wood cradle.
- Socket set (metric), extensions and ratchet. Torx/Allen as needed.
- Wrenches (metric), screwdrivers, pliers.
- Pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Seal puller (hook type) or thin-blade screwdriver (careful).
- Seal driver set or a socket whose face matches the seal OD for even seating. Wooden block and mallet as last resort.
- Drain pan, rags, brake cleaner.
- Torque wrench.
- New gearbox seal(s) (correct part number), replacement pilot bearing/bushing (recommended), clutch alignment tool (if replacing clutch or removing disc), new transmission fluid (correct grade — manual trans oil like 75W-90 GL‑4 unless your manual says otherwise).
- Thread locker (medium) if specified, RTV only if manual directs.
- Light oil (to lubricate the new seal lip lightly before assembly).

Preparatory steps / inspection
1. Confirm leak source: Clean suspected area, run vehicle, observe. If oil comes from the bellhousing area, likely input seal. If from driveshaft flange, likely output. Use white shop towel to trace the leak path.
2. Get the correct replacement seal(s) and any recommended bearings/parts. Buy one extra seal to avoid a second removal.
3. Read the truck’s service manual sections for transmission removal and torque specs.

Removal (overview — input seal replacement by removing transmission)
Note: This is a general procedure. Follow the service manual for bolt locations, sequence, and torque values.

1. Prep
- Park, block wheels, disconnect negative battery cable.
- Raise vehicle and support safely on jack stands; ensure plenty of workspace.
- Drain transmission fluid: remove fill and drain plugs and capture oil. (You can leave fluid in until you’re ready to remove if easier; draining first reduces spills.)

2. Disconnect components around the transmission
- Remove driveshaft(s): mark orientation to maintain balance, then unbolt flange/ U-joints and lower carefully.
- Disconnect shift linkage and speedometer cable or sensor. Note linkage fastener locations so you can reassemble exactly.
- Remove starter motor (to access bellhousing bolts often).
- Disconnect clutch hydraulic lines or cable. If hydraulic slave cylinder is connected to the trans, support/plug lines to avoid fluid loss into the vehicle.
- Remove any electrical connectors attached to transmission.

3. Support transmission and remove crossmember(s)
- Place transmission jack under gearbox. Support with wood to avoid crushing case.
- Remove crossmember(s) and support brackets. Make sure engine is supported (if the engine mount is attached to bellhousing, support engine with an engine support bar or jack under oil pan with wood block).

4. Remove bellhousing bolts and separate transmission from engine
- Remove bolts that attach bellhousing to engine block/crank housing. Keep track of bolt lengths — many vehicles use different lengths.
- Gently pry between engine and transmission to separate. If stuck, use a pry bar carefully at designated points. Do not force: check for missed bolts or alignment dowels.

5. Lower transmission
- Carefully slide transmission back off the input shaft. Be gentle — clutch alignment, pilot bearing contact, and input shaft splines must not be damaged.
- Lower and remove the transmission from under the vehicle.

Accessing and removing the old input seal
1. With the transmission removed and placed on a suitable stand, locate the input bore where the input shaft protrudes. The seal is pressed in here.
2. Remove any retaining plates or snap rings if present.
3. Using a seal puller or a small hooked screwdriver, carefully pry out the old seal. Be careful not to gouge or score the bore. If the thin metal case edge of the seal binds, pry at multiple points evenly. Clean the bore thoroughly.

Inspect the input shaft and bore
- Check the input shaft’s sealing surface for nicks, grooves or corrosion. Use a flashlight and a fingernail to feel for grooves. If it’s lightly corroded, polish with fine emery cloth (very light) or Scotch-Brite until smooth. Large grooves require machining, replacement shaft, or a shaft sleeve—do not expect a new seal to stop a deep groove.
- Check the pilot bearing and replace if rough or noisy. A failed pilot bearing can let the input shaft wobble and shred seals. Replace the pilot bearing/bushing while you have access.

Installing the new seal
1. Orientation: The sealing lip faces the inside (towards the fluid). The flat metal case faces outwards. Confirm by comparing with the old seal orientation.
2. Lightly lubricate the inner lip with gearbox oil or assembly lube (do NOT use engine oil or petroleum greases that can swell the rubber).
3. Use a seal driver or a socket whose face matches the outer diameter of the seal to press it squarely into the bore. Tap evenly around the circumference to seat the seal flush with the casting face. Uneven seating causes leaks and rapid failure.
4. If the bore has any burrs, clean them first; do not use excess force.

Reassembly
1. If you removed the clutch or pressure plate, reinstall using a clutch alignment tool to center the disc on the input shaft. If you only removed the transmission and left clutch alone, ensure the splines are clean and appplied with light grease if recommended.
2. Guide the transmission input shaft into the clutch disc and pilot bearing; use the transmission jack to raise and align. Do not force — if it won’t slide in easily, pull back and recheck alignment.
3. Reinstall bellhousing bolts loosely at first, then torque in the correct sequence to manufacturer specs. Replace any dowel pins if damaged.
4. Reconnect crossmember, driveshaft, shift linkage, starter, slave cylinder/cable and any sensors or wiring. Replace any gaskets or seals removed. Refill the transmission to the proper level with the correct fluid.
5. Reconnect battery.

Final checks and break-in
- Clean the area of tools and rags. Lower vehicle. Start engine, shift through gears (with parking brake on), check for unusual noises. Inspect seal area for leaks while running.
- After a short test drive, re-check for leaks and fluid level. Check again after 100 miles.

Troubleshooting and failure modes after install
- Still leaking: the seal may be installed backwards, not fully seated, or the shaft is damaged. Re-check orientation and seating. If the shaft has grooves, a new seal will not stop leakage.
- Sinking clutch or chatter: if you removed clutch hydraulic components, bleed the system properly.
- Transmission oil foaming or loss: check venting. A clogged vent can pressurize the case and force oil out past seals. Clean/replace vent.
- New seal failing quickly: likely shaft damage, misalignment, or wrong seal material/size. Confirm part number and re-inspect shaft/bore.

Practical tips and analogies
- Think of the seal like the rubber lip around a revolving faucet stem. If the stem is scratched, no new rubber will stop the drip unless you fix the stem.
- Use a seal driver or an appropriate socket — pounding a seal in crooked is like forcing a round peg into a square hole: it doesn’t seal and it fails quickly.
- Keep fasteners organized by length/position — mix-ups can cause misalignment and leaks. A simple cardboard tray with labeled holes works well.
- Replace the pilot bearing while you have it apart — cheap insurance. If it locks up later, it will ruin your new seal.

When to consider more than just a seal
- If input shaft play is excessive, bearings are noisy, or gears feel loose, consider a transmission rebuild or at least inspect bearings and synchros.
- If seal failure was accompanied by metal shavings in the oil, do a full internal inspection.

Final note on torque specs and model-specific details
- Exact bolt torque values, bolt patterns, and component differences (starter location, slave cylinder type, crossmember design) vary by year/model and transmission variant. Always consult a factory service manual or reliable repair guide (Chilton/Haynes or Toyota TSB) for exact torques and any model-specific steps.

That’s the complete beginner-to-intermediate roadmap: why seals fail, what they do, what you’ll remove/inspect, how to install the new seal properly, common pitfalls, and post-repair checks. Follow the manual for torque specs and any vehicle-specific steps, be methodical, and don’t rush the seal seating or shaft inspection — that’s where most failures start.
rteeqp73

### Ball Joint Replacement on a Toyota 22R/22R-E

**Overview:**
The ball joint is a crucial component of your vehicle's suspension system. It acts like a ball-and-socket joint in the human body, allowing for smooth movement and providing stability to the wheel. When ball joints wear out, they can lead to poor handling, uneven tire wear, and, in severe cases, loss of control.

### Theory Behind Replacement

**Why Replacement is Needed:**
- **Wear and Tear:** Over time, ball joints can wear out due to constant movement and exposure to road debris and elements.
- **Noise and Vibration:** A worn ball joint may produce clunking noises or vibrations, indicating it's time for replacement.
- **Safety:** A failing ball joint can cause your wheel to detach from the suspension, leading to accidents.

**How the System Works:**
- **Structure:** The ball joint consists of a metal ball and socket, usually covered by a rubber boot that keeps grease in and contaminants out.
- **Function:** It connects the control arm to the steering knuckle, allowing for vertical movement while maintaining the wheel's alignment.

### Common Issues with Ball Joints
- **Worn Rubber Boot:** If the boot tears, dirt can enter, leading to faster wear.
- **Excessive Play:** Over time, the ball joint can develop excessive play, causing steering issues.
- **Corrosion:** Rust can weaken the joint and lead to failure.

### Tools and Parts Needed
1. **Tools:**
- Socket set (including deep sockets)
- Wrench set
- Ball joint separator or pickle fork
- Hammer
- Torque wrench
- Pliers
- Grease gun
- Jack and jack stands
- Safety goggles and gloves

2. **Parts:**
- New ball joint (specific for the Toyota 22R/22R-E)
- New cotter pin (if applicable)
- New grease (if not pre-greased)

### Step-by-Step Replacement Procedure

1. **Preparation:**
- **Safety First:** Wear safety goggles and gloves.
- **Park the Vehicle:** Ensure the vehicle is on a level surface.
- **Loosen Lug Nuts:** Before lifting the vehicle, slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are working on.

2. **Lifting the Vehicle:**
- **Use a Jack:** Carefully lift the front of the vehicle using a jack.
- **Secure with Jack Stands:** Place jack stands under the vehicle for safety.

3. **Remove the Wheel:**
- **Take Off the Lug Nuts:** Remove the loosened lug nuts and take off the wheel.

4. **Access the Ball Joint:**
- **Locate the Ball Joint:** Identify the ball joint connected to the control arm and steering knuckle.
- **Remove the Cotter Pin:** If there's a cotter pin, use pliers to remove it.

5. **Disconnect the Ball Joint:**
- **Loosen the Nut:** Use a socket to remove the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
- **Separate the Joint:** Use a ball joint separator or a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Tap gently with a hammer if necessary.

6. **Remove the Old Ball Joint:**
- **Unscrew the Ball Joint:** If it’s pressed in, you may need a ball joint press or a similar tool to remove it from the control arm.

7. **Install the New Ball Joint:**
- **Press in the New Joint:** Align the new ball joint with the control arm and press it in or screw it in as required.
- **Secure the Nut:** Tighten the nut to the manufacturer's specified torque (consult your service manual).
- **Reattach the Cotter Pin:** If applicable, insert a new cotter pin and bend it securely.

8. **Reconnect to Steering Knuckle:**
- **Reattach the Ball Joint:** Position it back into the steering knuckle and secure it with the nut.
- **Torque the Nut:** Tighten it to the specified torque.

9. **Reinstall the Wheel:**
- **Place the Wheel Back:** Align it properly and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- **Lower the Vehicle:** Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle back to the ground.

10. **Final Steps:**
- **Tighten Lug Nuts:** Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
- **Grease the Joint:** Use a grease gun to apply grease to the new ball joint if not pre-greased.
- **Test Drive:** Carefully take the vehicle for a test drive to ensure everything feels stable and there are no strange noises.

### Conclusion

Replacing a ball joint may seem daunting, but with the right tools and careful attention to detail, it’s a manageable task even for a beginner mechanic. Always consult your vehicle’s service manual for specific torque settings and procedures. Regular maintenance of your suspension system is key to safe driving.
rteeqp73

- **Tools Required:**
- **Socket Set (Metric):** Needed to remove bolts and nuts from the shock mounts. A socket set typically includes various sizes of sockets and a ratchet handle for easy loosening and tightening.
- **Wrench Set (Metric):** Useful for holding nuts in place while you use the socket on the bolts, especially if the shock mount has a locking nut.
- **Torque Wrench:** Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications, preventing damage to components due to over-tightening.
- **Jack and Jack Stands:** Required to lift the vehicle safely, allowing you to access the shocks. A jack is used to lift the vehicle, and jack stands are placed under the vehicle to secure it while you work.
- **Pry Bar:** Helpful for removing old shock mounts if they are stuck or for adjusting the positioning of components during installation.
- **Safety Goggles and Gloves:** Protect your eyes from debris and keep your hands safe while working.

- **Replacement Parts:**
- **Shock Absorbers:** Inspect the current shocks for leaks or damage. If they are worn, it’s advisable to replace them along with the mounts.
- **Shock Mounts:** These are rubber or polyurethane components that can degrade over time. If you notice cracks or excessive wear, replacement is necessary.
- **Bolts/Nuts:** Check the condition of the bolts and nuts holding the shock mounts in place. If they are rusted or damaged, replace them to ensure a secure fit.

- **Steps to Replace Shock Mounts:**
- **Prepare the Vehicle:**
- Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the parking brake.
- Use the jack to lift the rear or front (depending on which shocks you are replacing) of the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.

- **Remove the Old Shock:**
- Locate the shocks; there will be two bolts at the bottom and usually one or two at the top.
- Use the socket and ratchet to remove the bolts securing the shock to the mount.
- If the bolts are stuck, use a wrench to hold the nut while turning the socket.
- Remove the shock from its mount.

- **Remove the Shock Mount:**
- The shock mount may be bolted to the vehicle’s frame or a bracket. Remove these bolts using the socket set.
- If the mount is stuck, use a pry bar to gently loosen it.

- **Install the New Shock Mount:**
- Position the new shock mount in place and secure it with bolts. Use the torque wrench to tighten to specification.

- **Install the New Shock:**
- Align the new shock with the mount and insert the bolts.
- Tighten them using the socket set, ensuring they are secure but not overly tightened.

- **Reassemble and Lower the Vehicle:**
- Double-check all connections and ensure everything is secure.
- Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the jack.

- **Final Check:**
- Once the vehicle is back on the ground, check the new shock and mount for proper installation and ensure there are no leaks.

- **Why Extra Tools Might Be Required:**
- If bolts are rusted or seized, a penetrating oil may be needed to help loosen them.
- A hammer could be required for tapping stubborn mounts loose.
- A spring compressor might be necessary if the shocks are under tension or if they are coilover shocks, allowing safe removal and installation.

By following these steps and utilizing the right tools, you should be able to successfully replace the shock mounts on a Toyota 22R or 22R-E.
rteeqp73

### Tools Needed:
1. **Digital Multimeter (DMM)**
2. **Socket Set (10mm and 12mm sockets)**
3. **Wrench Set**
4. **Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)**
5. **Torque Wrench**
6. **Vacuum Hose (if needed)**
7. **Shop Manual (for specifications)**

### Safety Precautions:
1. **Disconnect the Battery**: Always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before working on electrical components.
2. **Work in a Well-Ventilated Area**: Ensure adequate ventilation when working under the hood.
3. **Wear Safety Glasses and Gloves**: Protect your eyes and hands from debris and sharp edges.
4. **Allow Engine to Cool**: Ensure the engine is cool to avoid burns.

### Step-by-Step Procedure to Map the Sensor:

1. **Locate the MAP Sensor**:
- The MAP sensor on the Toyota 22R/22R-E is typically found on the intake manifold or near the throttle body.

2. **Disconnect the Electrical Connector**:
- Carefully disconnect the wiring harness from the MAP sensor. Use a small flathead screwdriver if necessary to release the locking tab.

3. **Remove the MAP Sensor**:
- Use a socket or wrench to remove the bolts securing the MAP sensor to the intake manifold. Carefully lift the sensor off.

4. **Inspect the Sensor and Wiring**:
- Check the MAP sensor for any visible damage or corrosion. Inspect the wiring harness for frays or breaks.

5. **Set Up the Multimeter**:
- Set your digital multimeter to measure voltage. Connect the black lead to a good ground point on the engine, and the red lead to the MAP sensor connector's signal wire (refer to the shop manual for wire color coding).

6. **Turn the Ignition ON**:
- Without starting the engine, turn the ignition key to the ON position. Read the voltage on the multimeter. It should be within the specified range (usually around 0.5V to 4.5V depending on manifold pressure).

7. **Start the Engine**:
- Start the engine and observe the voltage reading on the multimeter. The voltage should change with RPM and manifold pressure. Compare readings at idle and during acceleration.

8. **Data Logging (Optional)**:
- If available, use a scan tool to log MAP sensor data for more detailed analysis while driving or revving the engine.

9. **Reinstall the MAP Sensor**:
- If the MAP sensor is functioning properly, reinstall it by reversing the removal steps. Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specifications.

10. **Reconnect the Electrical Connector**:
- Ensure the connector clicks securely into place.

11. **Reconnect the Battery**:
- Reattach the negative battery terminal.

12. **Test Drive**:
- Take the vehicle for a test drive to ensure proper performance and that no warning lights are illuminated.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Disconnecting the Battery**: Failing to disconnect the battery can cause a short circuit.
- **Incorrect Voltage Reading**: Ensure proper lead connections and settings on the multimeter.
- **Over-Tightening Bolts**: This can damage the MAP sensor or intake manifold.
- **Ignoring the Vacuum Lines**: Ensure all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition to avoid false readings.

### Replacement Parts:
- If the MAP sensor is found to be faulty during testing, replace it with a new unit compatible with the Toyota 22R/22R-E. Ensure to use OEM or quality aftermarket parts for reliability.

### Conclusion:
Following these steps carefully will ensure accurate mapping of the MAP sensor on the Toyota 22R/22R-E, leading to optimal engine performance.
rteeqp73