The Toyota 1HZ is an engine developed by Toyota Motor Corporation for the Toyota Land Cruiser and the Toyota Coaster Bus of 1990. It replaced the previous (2H) heavy duty engine which was being used in older Toyota Land Cruiser models. This engine generates more power and torque than previous diesel Toyota Land Cruiser engine. Despite being 25 years old, the 1HZ still sees use in Landcruiser 70 Series production worldwide with the exception of Petrol-only markets and Euro 4 and Australian markets, where the 1GR-FE and 1VD-FTV Turbo-Diesel is supplied respectively. A popular engine in the 80 series Land Cruiser and replacing the 70/75 series 2H in 1990.
If you run a Toyota Land Cruiser with the 1HZ engine, you will know two things about it: It’s very reliable and, it could do with more horses to help it along. If you agree, read on…
As reliable as the 1HZ engine is, it can be broken! I have owned four 1HZ Land Cruisers and of the four, only one of them wasn’t underpowered… because I turbo-charged it. But this is not as simple as it seems.
The trouble with the 1HZ is that it was never designed for being turbo-charged and when Toyota did build a turbo-charged version of it, they made some major changes to the piston design. They did this because the standard pistons have very thin crowns, and what this means is that the high-pressures created by a turbo can, and in most cases will, blow a hole in the top of one of the pistons. I say in most cases because after-market turbo suppliers cannot help themselves in trying to get the most power increase so that they can boast about their achievements and sell more turbos. This has lead to blown pistons, but by then, in most cases the warranty has expired.
Overheating is another issue. Some Land Cruisers like the 105 wagon have huge radiators, and can handle turbo-charging without problems. But the 70-series Cruisers do not, so one has to be more careful, or add intercoolers. But the moment there are intercoolers and oil coolers, the entire modification begins to get over-complicated and the legendary reliability of the 1HZ begins to diminish.
I looked for three years at all the turbo chargers available, and there are several of them, and to the surprise of many in the 4×4 world, chose the one that is the cheapest. Not because of the money saving but because I believe it will have the least effect on reliability, which to me is more important than the extra power being delivered. It is made by SAC. I have now run it for 40 000kms, done five expeditions and no issues whatsoever.
The SAC turbo is simple! And this is what I love about it. Some who look at the installation suggest that it’s crude. Yes, I suppose it is. The turbo induction pipe has no elegant bend (it’s a squared off tube at an inefficient 90° angle) and there are no expensive look-good components to woo buyers. The turbo charger is controlled by a simple spring, that opens the waste-gate at approximately 0,7-bar. Anything above 0,9-bar for long periods, the Toyota engineers tell me, will blow one of the pistons within 100 000-kms for sure. They reckon, without having done any lab tests, that at 0,7-bar, I am absolutely safe, as long as the exhaust gas temperatures don’t peak, too often.
That brings me onto an addition, which surprisingly SAC does not offer, and that is an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge that warns me when temperatures peak. Anything above 700°C for more than a minute or two will damage the turbo-charger and eventually the valves. Temperatures peak on long hills at high speed exaggerated by high ambient temperatures. One of the ways to reduce EGTs is to replace the exhaust with a larger-bore one, with a more efficient exhaust manifold. What this does it let the hot gasses escape easier, and cools it down faster. SAC also offers a head work, where they grind the head, allowing the engine to breathe more efficiently. I have not tried this so cannot report on the power increase or temperature decrease, but my gut tells me it may not be worth the expense, even though some improvement are probable.
So, in conclusion, if you are thinking of turbo-charging your 1HZ, avoid the turbo-makers who boast of the most power output, because truth is, it’s easy to get lots more power out of this engine, but at a huge cost to reliability. Look for one who’s focus is adding more power but are prepared to compensate power output for reliability. My SAC turbo adds an extra 22kW power output and I cannot remember how much extra torque but the improvement in overtaking performance, which is where the 1HZ seriously lacks, is excellent. Not earth-shattering, but it makes this a much, much nicer vehicle to drive. And the turbo-whine creates a nice, reassuring whizz that I really like.
Fuel consumption has increased. Pre-turbo I achieved a better than average 12L/100kms from my 1HZ. Now I get about 14L/100kms and can creep to 16L/100 kms on long stretches with a heavy load and bulky roof-rack… Still far better than the similar petrol engined vehicle and still acceptable. But the old saying applies here: If you have more horses, they have to be fed.
The Toyota 1HZ is a 4.20 l (4,164 cc, 254.1 cu-in) six cylinders, four-stroke cycle water-cooled naturally aspirated internal combustion diesel engine, manufactured by the Toyota Motor Corporation.
The 1HZ engine has a cast iron cylinder block with 94 mm (3.7 in) cylinder bores and a 100 mm (3.94 in) piston stroke. Compression ratio rating was 22.7:1. In 1998, the 1HZ engine received a reinforced cylinder block and crankshaft, new pistons and glow plugs, the compression was reduced to 22.4:1. Since 2002 the engine is equipped with an EGR system.
The motor has a cast iron cylinder head with the single overhead camshaft (SOHC) with two valves per cylinder and indirect injection design.
### Safety Precautions
1. **Disconnect the Battery**: Always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to prevent electrical shorts.
2. **Lift the Vehicle Safely**: If working underneath, use jack stands to secure the vehicle.
3. **Wear Safety Gear**: Use safety goggles and gloves to protect against debris and sharp edges.
4. **Work in a Well-Ventilated Area**: Ensure proper ventilation if working with any chemicals.
### Step-by-Step Replacement Process
#### Step 1: Preparation
- Gather all tools and parts.
- Ensure you have the correct replacement torque sensor for the specific model (1HZ, 1PZ, 1HD-T).
#### Step 2: Disconnect Battery
- Use a socket or wrench to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
#### Step 3: Access the Torque Sensor
1. **Remove Engine Covers**: If applicable, remove any engine covers that obstruct access to the torque sensor. Use the socket set to remove bolts.
2. **Locate the Torque Sensor**: The torque sensor is typically located near the transmission. Refer to the vehicle service manual for precise location details.
#### Step 4: Disconnect Wiring
- Carefully unplug the electrical connector from the torque sensor. Use pliers if connectors are tight but avoid damaging the wiring.
#### Step 5: Remove the Old Sensor
1. **Unbolt the Sensor**: Using the appropriate socket, remove the bolts securing the torque sensor to the transmission.
2. **Remove the Sensor**: Carefully pull the sensor away from the transmission. Inspect the area for any debris or fluid leaks.
#### Step 6: Install the New Sensor
1. **Position the New Sensor**: Align the new torque sensor into the mounting area.
2. **Secure with Bolts**: Hand-tighten the bolts first, then use a torque wrench to tighten them to the manufacturer's specifications (refer to the service manual).
3. **Reconnect Wiring**: Plug the electrical connector back into the new torque sensor.
#### Step 7: Reassemble Components
- Reinstall any engine covers or components that were removed. Ensure all bolts are secured.
#### Step 8: Reconnect Battery
- Reattach the negative terminal of the battery and ensure it is tight.
#### Step 9: Test the Installation
1. **Start the Engine**: Check for any warning lights on the dashboard.
2. **Test Drive**: Take the vehicle for a short drive to ensure the torque sensor is functioning correctly and there are no unusual noises or issues.
### Common Pitfalls to Avoid
- **Neglecting Electrical Connections**: Ensure all connectors are clean and fully seated to prevent electrical issues.
- **Over-tightening Bolts**: Use a torque wrench to avoid damaging the new sensor or transmission case.
- **Ignoring Fluid Leaks**: Check for any leaks around the sensor area after installation.
- **Not Testing After Replacement**: Always perform a test drive and monitor for any warning lights or performance issues.
### Replacement Parts
- Ensure that the replacement torque sensor is OEM or high-quality aftermarket to guarantee performance and longevity. Always check for any additional gaskets or sealants required during installation.
By following these steps meticulously, you’ll ensure a successful transmission torque sensor replacement on a Toyota 1HZ, 1PZ, or 1HD-T engine. rteeqp73
### Shock Absorber Replacement on Toyota 1HZ/1PZ/1HD-T
#### Safety Precautions:
- Always wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface and secure with wheel chocks.
- Use jack stands to support the vehicle after lifting it with a jack.
- Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Make sure to depressurize the air suspension system (if applicable) before starting.
#### Step-by-Step Procedure:
1. **Preparation:**
- Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent any electrical issues.
2. **Lifting the Vehicle:**
- Use a jack to lift the vehicle at the designated lift points.
- Secure the vehicle with jack stands for safety.
3. **Removing the Wheel:**
- Remove the lug nuts using the appropriate socket and wrench.
- Take off the wheel to access the shock absorber.
4. **Removing the Shock Absorber:**
- Locate the upper mounting bolts of the shock absorber (usually near the top of the wheel well).
- Use the socket/wrench to remove these bolts. If they are tight, a penetrating oil can help loosen them.
- Next, locate the lower mounting bolts on the shock absorber bracket.
- Remove these bolts in the same manner.
- Carefully lower the shock absorber and remove it from the vehicle.
5. **Installing the New Shock Absorber:**
- Compare the old shock absorber with the new one to ensure they match.
- Position the new shock absorber in place.
- Start by securing the lower mounting bolt first, then the upper one.
- Hand-tighten the bolts initially, ensuring the shock is seated properly.
6. **Torque Specifications:**
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (refer to the shop manual).
7. **Reinstalling the Wheel:**
- Place the wheel back onto the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle back to the ground.
8. **Final Torque:**
- Once on the ground, use the torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
9. **Reconnect Battery:**
- Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
10. **Test Drive:**
- Perform a test drive to ensure the new shock absorbers are functioning correctly. Listen for any unusual noises.
#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not using jack stands:** Always support the vehicle properly to avoid accidents.
- **Over-tightening bolts:** This can lead to stripped threads or damaged components.
- **Neglecting torque specs:** Always refer to the manual for the correct torque values.
- **Skipping the test drive:** This helps confirm that the replacement has resolved any issues.
#### Replacement Parts:
- Always use OEM or high-quality aftermarket shock absorbers for best performance.
- Inspect and replace any worn bushings or mounting hardware if needed.
Following this guide will help ensure a successful shock absorber replacement on the Toyota 1HZ/1PZ/1HD-T. rteeqp73
- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves and sturdy shoes.
- Work on a flat level surface, engage parking brake and chock wheels.
- Never rely on a jack alone to hold the vehicle — always use rated jack stands on axle or body points.
- If anything feels beyond your tools/skill (seized bolts needing cutting, welded mounts, spring compressors) stop and get help or a shop.
- What “shock mount” means for these Toyotas (brief)
- Many Land Cruisers and Toyota utility vehicles with 1HZ / 1PZ / 1HD-T engines use separate shock absorbers (not MacPherson struts) with a lower eye that bolts to the axle or control arm and an upper eye/plate that bolts to the chassis/body.
- “Repair” can be replacing worn rubber bushings/sleeves, replacing the shock absorber, or replacing rusted/seized mounting bolts/plates.
- Tools you likely already have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Floor jack (hydraulic)
- Description: Low-profile hydraulic jack that lifts vehicle by pumping handle.
- Use: Position under manufacturer-recommended lift point, pump to lift axle high enough to remove wheel and compress controls slightly. Always lower onto jack stands for support.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Description: Steel stands with adjustable height and locking pin/rachet rated for vehicle weight.
- Use: Place under axle or chassis lift points; slowly lower vehicle onto stands. Check stability before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Wedges or blocks to prevent rolling.
- Use: Place behind/forward of wheels still on ground.
- Socket set (metric), deep and shallow sockets (10–24 mm range)
- Description: Ratchet handle and a range of sockets; deep sockets useful for bolts with protruding threads.
- Use: Match socket to bolt/nut size, pull ratchet handle to turn. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open/box end)
- Description: Hand spanners in common metric sizes matching sockets.
- Use: Hold nut or bolt head when turning with socket on the opposite side; useful in tight spaces.
- Breaker bar (long-handled)
- Description: Long non-ratcheting bar providing extra leverage.
- Use: Fit a socket and use steady force to break seized bolts loose. Avoid sudden whipping movements.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: Adjustable wrench that clicks at set torque.
- Use: Tighten bolts to exact factory torque. Set desired torque, tighten slowly until click. Essential for safety-critical mounts.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist, Kroil)
- Description: Liquid that soaks rusts threads to ease removal.
- Use: Spray on seized bolts, allow 10–30 minutes (or longer for heavy corrosion) and reapply as needed.
- Hammer and drift/punch
- Description: Ball-peen or claw hammer and a steel punch to tap out sleeves/bolts.
- Use: Strike punch to gently drive out pins or rusted sleeves after bolts are removed.
- Wire brush and/or small grinder with wire wheel
- Description: Handheld brush or electric grinder accessory.
- Use: Clean corrosion around mount, threads, and mating surfaces prior to installation.
- Pry bar / large screwdriver
- Description: Sturdy bar to lever components.
- Use: Pry shock eye out of mount if rubber is swollen; support axle travel while removing/installing.
- Vice grips / locking pliers
- Description: Adjustable pliers that lock onto bolts/nuts.
- Use: Hold rounded-off bolt heads while you turn the nut, or clamp to prevent turning.
- Impact wrench (12V or air) — optional but very useful
- Description: Power tool that delivers high torque in short bursts.
- Use: Removes stubborn bolts quickly. If you own one, still use penetrating oil first. Not required if you have a breaker bar and patience.
- Hacksaw or reciprocating saw and replacement fasteners — emergency only
- Description: Cutting tools for bolts that cannot be freed.
- Use: Cut bolt head off and extract remaining stud; used when bolts are hopelessly seized/corroded.
- Rust-penetrant heat source (propane torch) — advanced/optional
- Description: Heat can expand the metal and break rust bonds.
- Use: Only for experienced users in well-ventilated outdoor area; avoid fuel lines, rubber and plastic. Not recommended for beginners.
- Grease and anti-seize compound
- Description: Lubricants for reassembly.
- Use: Lightly apply anti-seize to threads to aid future removal; grease rubber bushings as specified.
- Replacement parts (see next section) packed with new nuts, bolts, sleeves
- Why extra tools might be needed (and why)
- Impact wrench: Speeds removal of heavily tightened bolts; saves effort. Otherwise a long breaker bar is necessary.
- Saw/grinder: Required if bolts are seized/rusted in place and cannot be extracted normally.
- Propane torch: Breaks heavy corrosion bonds by heat; dangerous around flammable fluids and for beginners.
- Spring compressor: Required only if you are dealing with struts/coils where springs must be compressed (strut top mounts). If your model uses separate shocks, you do NOT need a spring compressor.
- Parts you may need to replace (what, why, and when)
- Shock absorber (complete unit)
- Why: If the shock is leaking oil, has no damping (bouncy ride) or damaged. Replace when worn or when bushings are shot.
- Rubber bushings / rubber insulators (upper and lower)
- Why: They deteriorate with age, causing clunks and play. Replace if cracked, collapsed or loose.
- Metal spacer sleeve (inner sleeve that goes through the bushing)
- Why: Corroded or deformed sleeves prevent correct tightening and bushing function. Replace with matching diameter sleeve.
- Mounting bolts and nuts (grade 8.8+ or OEM grade)
- Why: Bolts corrode and stretch; always replace with correct grade/length if removed or damaged. Use new nuts and washers.
- Upper strut mount / bearing (only if car uses struts)
- Why: If the top bearing is noisy or the strut top mount is worn you’ll need to replace the mount assembly.
- Body/chassis mount plate (if rusted through)
- Why: If the mount flange in the chassis is rusted or damaged you must repair or replace the plate — often a job for a professional welder/body shop.
- Quick checklist before starting
- Inspect shock and mount: look for oil leaks, damaged bushings, play, excessive rust.
- Decide whether you are replacing bushings only or entire shock. Replacing the shock is often easier and recommended if >100k km or any leak/damage.
- Get replacement parts for both sides (left and right) — always replace in pairs for balanced handling.
- Step-by-step repair procedure (general, applicable to separate-shock setups)
- Prepare vehicle: chock wheels, loosen lug nuts slightly if removing wheel.
- Lift and support: jack vehicle at recommended point, place jack stands under axle or chassis and lower onto stands; remove wheel if needed for access.
- Inspect and free fasteners: spray penetrating oil on upper and lower shock bolts, let soak 10–30 minutes; use breaker bar or impact to break loose.
- Support axle or control arm: use jack under axle to take load off the shock so it’s not under tension when bolts are removed.
- Remove lower bolt/nut: hold bolt head with wrench and turn nut with socket/ratchet; use breaker bar if necessary; remove bolt and set aside.
- Use tools: ratchet/socket for speed, breaker bar for stubborn bolts, vice grips if bolt head rounds.
- Remove upper bolt/nut or plate: some uppers are accessed from inside wheel arch or underbody; remove nut(s) and pull shock down/up out of mount.
- Use punch/drift and hammer to free a seized sleeve; pry bar carefully if bushings stick.
- Remove old bushings/sleeve: cut or drive out the old inner sleeve with a punch; wire brush rust from mount faces.
- Inspect mounts and frame: if rust has eaten through the mount flange or pocket you will need welding/body repairs. If small surface rust, clean and treat with rust inhibitor.
- Fit new sleeve and bushings: assemble new rubber bushings and metal spacer sleeve into shock eye. Lightly grease bushing faces if recommended (check part instructions).
- Fit shock into mounts: align shock eye with mount, insert new bolt and hand-thread nuts. Use new grade bolts if original was corroded.
- Tighten bolts to spec: with vehicle at normal ride height (lower axle onto stands or onto ground if specified), torque upper and lower bolts to factory specifications using a torque wrench.
- If factory torque is unknown: consult your Toyota workshop manual. Typical shock-eye bolts are medium-high torque; do not guess — incorrect torque risks failure.
- Reinstall wheel (if removed), lower vehicle partly, torque wheel nuts to correct spec.
- Final check: bounce vehicle to confirm damping; re-torque shock bolts after first 100–200 km if specified and check for noise or play.
- Special notes for strut-type setups (if your model has struts)
- Top mount is under spring preload; do NOT attempt to remove the strut without a proper spring compressor and knowledge of how to use it. Compressor misuse can cause serious injury.
- If you have struts and top mount noise/wear, consider replacing the entire strut assembly or the strut mount + bearing (requires spring compressor).
- Dealing with seized or rounded bolts (practical tips)
- Apply penetrating oil multiple times and tap around the bolt to help penetration.
- Use a breaker bar and a correctly fitting socket — jerks can round heads, steady leverage works better.
- Use heat only if you know what you’re doing and avoid nearby fuel/brake lines.
- If bolt head is rounded, use a bolt extractor socket set or grind flats to use a wrench.
- As a last resort cut bolt and replace with new bolt and nut; ensure replacement fastener is correct grade and length.
- When to replace vs repair
- Replace shock absorber if leaking oil, worn damping, or bent piston rod.
- Replace bushings if cracked or loose; if bushings are fine, a shock replacement alone may be sufficient.
- Replace bolts/sleeves if corroded or damaged. Always use new threaded fasteners when the old ones are compromised.
- Repair chassis mounting flange only with welding/bodywork by someone experienced — unsafe to ignore structural rust.
- Final safety checks
- Confirm all bolts are torqued to spec and cotter pins (if applicable) are fitted.
- Test drive slowly, listen for clunks, re-check tightness after first short trip.
- Reinspect after 500 km or after off-road use.
- Common replacement part identifiers (what to buy)
- Shock absorber: match to vehicle year/model and axle (front left/right, rear left/right). OEM part numbers or aftermarket (KYB, Bilstein, Rancho) specified for Land Cruiser series.
- Bushing kit: rubber bushings + inner sleeves sized for the shock eye (order by shock part number).
- Mounting bolts: M12 or M14 metric high-strength bolts are common — get OEM specs or bring old bolt to parts store for match.
- Upper strut mount (if applicable): strut mount kit with bearing for a given vehicle model.
- Final pragmatic advice
- If bolts cut/snap or mount flange is heavily corroded, consider a workshop — cutting, drilling and welding are advanced.
- If unsure which shock fits your exact vehicle, provide VIN or model year to parts supplier or look up OEM part numbers.
- Replace shocks in axle pairs (both rear or both front) for balanced handling.
- Quick reminders (no yapping)
- Use jack stands; torque to spec; replace worn parts in pairs; clean and anti-seize threads; stop if you need welding or spring compressor expertise. rteeqp73