A skid loader, skid-steer loader or skidsteer is a small, rigid-frame, engine-powered machine with lift arms used to attach a wide variety of labor-saving tools or attachments. Skid-steer loaders are typically four-wheel vehicles with the wheels mechanically locked in synchronization on each side, and where the left-side drive wheels can be driven independently of the right-side drive wheels. The wheels typically have no separate steering mechanism and hold a fixed straight alignment on the body of the machine. Turning is accomplished by differential steering, in which the left and right wheel pairs are operated at different speeds, and the machine turns by skidding or dragging its fixed-orientation wheels across the ground. The extremely rigid frame and strong wheel bearings prevent the torsional forces caused by this dragging motion from damaging the machine. As with tracked vehicles, the high ground friction produced by skid steers can rip up soft or fragile road surfaces. They can be converted to low ground friction by using specially designed wheels such as the Mecanum wheel. Skid-steer loaders are capable of zero-radius, "pirouette" turning, which makes them extremely maneuverable and valuable for applications that require a compact, agile loader. Skid-steer loaders are sometimes equipped with tracks instead of the wheels, and such a vehicle is known as a multi-terrain loader. Unlike in a conventional front loader, the lift arms in these machines are alongside the driver with the pivot points behind the driver's shoulders. Because of the operator's proximity to moving booms, early skid loaders were not as safe as conventional front loaders, particularly during entry and exit of the operator. Modern skid loaders have fully enclosed cabs and other features to protect the operator. Like other front loaders, it can push material from one location to another, carry material in its bucket or load material into a truck or trailer. The first three-wheeled, front-end loader was invented by brothers Cyril and Louis Keller in Rothsay, Minnesota, in 1957. The Kellers built the loader to help a farmer, Eddie Velo, mechanize the process of cleaning turkey manure from his barn. The light and compact machine, with its rear caster wheel, was able to turn around within its own length, while performing the same tasks as a conventional front-end loader. The Melroe brothers, of Melroe Manufacturing Company in Gwinner, North Dakota, purchased the rights to the Keller loader in 1958 and hired the Kellers to continue refining their invention. As a result of this partnership, the M-200 Melroe self-propelled loader was introduced at the end of 1958. It featured two independent front-drive wheels and a rear caster wheel, a 12.9 hp (9.6 kW) engine and a 750-pound (340 kg) lift capacity. Two years later they replaced the caster wheel with a rear axle and introduced the M-400, the first four-wheel, true skid-steer loader. The M-440 was powered by a 15.5 hp (11.6 kW) engine and had an 1,100-pound (500 kg) rated operating capacity. Skid-steer development continued into the mid-1960s with the M600 loader. The conventional bucket of many skid loaders can be replaced with a variety of specialized buckets or attachments, many powered by the loader's hydraulic system. These include backhoe, hydraulic breaker, pallet forks, angle broom, sweeper, auger, mower, snow blower, stump grinder, tree spade, trencher, dumping hopper, pavement miller, ripper, tillers, grapple, tilt, roller, snow blade, wheel saw, cement mixer, and wood chipper machine. Some models of skid steer now also have an automatic attachment changer mechanism. This allows a driver to change between a variety of terrain handling, shaping, and leveling tools without having to leave the machine, by using a hydraulic control mechanism to latch onto the attachments. Hydraulic supply lines to powered attachments may be routed so that the couplings are located near the cab, and the driver does not need to leave the machine to connect or disconnect those supply lines. The original skid-steer loader arms were designed using a hinge at the rear of the machine to pivot the loader arm up into the air in an arc that swings up over the top of the operator. This design tends to limit the usable height to how long the loader arm is and the height of that pivot point. In the raised position the front of the loader arm moves towards the rear of the machine, requiring the operator to move extremely close to or press up against the side of a tall container or other transport vehicle to get the bucket close enough to dump accurately. At the highest arm positions the bucket may overflow the rear of the bucket and spill directly onto the top of the machine's cab. An extended reach design uses multiple hinges and parallel lifting bars on the loader arm, with the main pivot points towards the center or front of the machine. This allows the loader arm to have much greater operating height while retaining a compact design, and allows the vertical movement to be less of an arc and more straight-up vertical, to keep the bucket forward of the operator's cab, allowing safe dumping into tall containers or vehicles. A skid-steer loader can sometimes be used in place of a large excavator by digging a hole from the inside. The skid loader first digs a ramp leading to the edge of the desired excavation. It then uses the ramp to carry material out of the hole. The skid loader reshapes the ramp making it steeper and longer as the excavation deepens. This method is particularly useful for digging under a structure where overhead clearance does not allow for the boom of a large excavator, such as digging a basement under an existing house. Several companies make backhoe attachments for skid-steers. These are more effective for digging in a small area than the method above and can work in the same environments. Other applications may consist of transporting raw material around a job site, or assisting in the rough grading process.

Summary first: the input shaft transmits engine/torque-converter torque into the transmission gearset. Failures are usually spline wear, journal/bearing wear, bending, scoring, or seal failure leading to noise, play, slipping, metal in oil, and poor gear meshing. Replacing the shaft restores correct spline engagement, bearing seats, endplay, and geometry so the gears mesh and are lubricated properly — stopping the symptoms and preventing further gearset damage.

Ordered procedure with theory included (read as sequence you would follow in a shop; check Toyota service manual for exact torques/specs and any model-specific steps):

1) Safety and preparation
- Theory: correct lifting, support, and workspace are required to avoid injury and to maintain component orientation (transmissions are heavy and alignment-sensitive).
- Actions: disconnect battery, support vehicle/forklift on suitable stands, drain transmission/gearbox oil, remove any external components (exhaust, drive shafts, linkages) blocking access. Gather tools: service manual, lifting gear, engine/trans mission hoist, torque wrench, bearing press/puller, snap-ring pliers, dial indicator, micrometer, feeler gauges, seal driver, replacement shaft, bearings/seals, new gaskets, clean rags, oil.

2) Diagnose and document
- Theory: confirm input shaft is root cause rather than clutch, torque converter, or differential. Symptoms localize where the shaft transmits torque to the gearset.
- Actions: inspect oil for metal, listen for noise at idle/under load, check input shaft endplay and spline condition where accessible, inspect gears for chipped teeth. Photograph and mark relative positions of housings and gears for reassembly.

3) Remove transmission from engine (if required)
- Theory: to remove the shaft you usually must separate the transmission from the engine/torque converter and disassemble the gearbox; maintaining alignment reference helps reassembly.
- Actions: unbolt bellhousing, support transmission with hoist, separate drive coupling (torque converter/drive plate or clutch), note dowel positions and shims, remove transmission to workbench.

4) Disassemble gearbox front section to access input shaft assembly
- Theory: the input shaft is supported by bearings and often carries a cluster gear or countergear; access requires splitting the case and removing retaining rings/gears so the shaft can be withdrawn without damaging mating parts.
- Actions: remove external covers, shift forks if required (secure selector positions), remove snap rings, retaining nuts, cluster gear(s), synchronizer assemblies as per manual. Keep parts in order and tag them. Use a press/puller to remove bearings or gears from the shaft if interference fit exists.

5) Extract the input shaft
- Theory: the shaft is usually a precision-machined journal with splines; removal must preserve bearing races if reusing, and avoid scoring bore bores.
- Actions: support case halves, withdraw the shaft straight from the gearbox. If bearings are pressed on, use suitable puller. Inspect splines, journals, keyways, and the bearing fit.

6) Inspect shaft and mating components
- Theory: note exactly why the shaft failed — worn splines, scored journals, bent shaft, fretting corrosion, or bearing-induced wear. Also inspect bearings, races, gears, synchronizers and housings for damage caused by a defective shaft (metal contamination can damage other parts).
- Actions: measure journals, spline profile, straightness (runout), and compare to service limits. Check bearings/races for pitting. Inspect gearbox bore bores and mating gear teeth for abnormal wear or tooth profile damage.

7) Decide repair scope
- Theory: replacing only the shaft may be insufficient if bearings, races, or gears are damaged. Proper repair restores clearances, preload, and contact patterns.
- Actions: replace the input shaft if out of spec. Replace bearings, seals, and any damaged gears or synchronizers. If races in the case are damaged, they must be replaced or machined per manual.

8) Prepare new shaft and components
- Theory: correct bearing seating, spline engagement, and seal placement are required for durability and lubrication flow.
- Actions: press new bearings onto shaft if required using correct drivers; fit new seals and O-rings; ensure splines are clean and lubricated with assembly paste where specified. Replace any paper or liquid gaskets and clean mating surfaces.

9) Reassembly with correct endplay and backlash control
- Theory: the input shaft axial endplay and gear mesh backlash determine gear noise, wear rate, and shift quality. Correct shims and bearing preload ensure the shaft sits at the designed axial position so gears mesh with correct tooth contact.
- Actions: assemble shaft into gearbox, install retaining rings, gears and synchronizers in original order. Use dial indicator to measure shaft endfloat and adjust shims or bearings to achieve specified endplay. Check gear backlash with a dial indicator; adjust shims or selector components to meet specification. Torque fasteners to the specified values.

10) Reinstall transmission and related components
- Theory: correct alignment between engine and transmission, and between torque converter/clutch and input shaft, prevents premature wear and leaks.
- Actions: mate transmission to engine/torque converter with dowels and new bolts as specified. Reconnect linkages, driveshafts, exhaust, electrical connectors. Refill transmission with correct oil type and quantity.

11) Break-in and verification testing
- Theory: running post-repair verifies that preload and clearances are correct and allows new surfaces (bearings, splines) to seat under controlled conditions.
- Actions: before full-load operation, run the engine at idle and shift through gears; listen for abnormal noise and check for leaks. Perform a road/test-lift trial under light load, then recheck oil for contamination and re-torque bolts after initial cycles if manual specifies.

How the replacement fixes the fault (concise theory)
- Worn/broken splines: replacing the shaft restores full spline engagement and correct torque transfer without slip, removing backlash and fretting that causes noise and heat.
- Damaged journals/bearings: a new shaft with new bearings restores concentricity and correct bearing preload, eliminating vibration, noise, and uneven gear wear.
- Bent shaft: straight shaft realigns gear faces and restores gear mesh pattern; previously uneven load caused accelerated tooth damage.
- Seal failure/pollution: replacing seals and cleaning the system prevents oil loss and contamination; replacing damaged components removes metal particles that would accelerate wear.
- Re-establishes axial endplay and gear backlash: correct clearances make shifts crisp, reduce gear tooth contact stress, and prevent recurrence.

Final checks (must-do)
- Verify torque specs and clearances to manual values.
- Check for metal in oil after initial run-in.
- Confirm smooth operation through all gears under load and neutral.
- Reinspect for leaks after a short break-in period.

Note: use the Toyota 1DZ-II service manual for model-specific procedures, part numbers, and torque and shim values.
rteeqp73

### Leaf Spring Replacement on a Toyota 1DZ-II

**Theory Behind Leaf Springs:**
Leaf springs are a type of suspension system used to support the weight of a vehicle and absorb shocks from the road. They consist of several layers of metal (the leaves) that are curved. When weight is applied, the leaves flex and compress, which helps to cushion the ride and maintain control over rough surfaces.

**Why Replacement is Needed:**
Over time, leaf springs can wear out, crack, or become deformed due to constant stress, rust, or impact from potholes and rough terrain. This can lead to a rough ride, decreased handling, and even failure of the suspension system, which can compromise safety.

### Tools and Components Needed:
1. **Tools:**
- Socket set (including a torque wrench)
- Wrenches (adjustable and box-end)
- Jack and jack stands
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- Rubber mallet (optional)
- Safety goggles
- Gloves

2. **Components:**
- Replacement leaf springs (ensure they are compatible with Toyota 1DZ-II)
- U-bolts (new ones recommended)
- Bushings (for the eyes of the leaf springs)
- Shackles (if rusted or damaged)

### Step-by-Step Replacement:

1. **Preparation:**
- Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the parking brake.
- Wear safety goggles and gloves.

2. **Lift the Vehicle:**
- Use a jack to lift the rear of the vehicle and securely place jack stands under the frame for safety.

3. **Remove the Wheel:**
- Use a socket wrench to remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheel.

4. **Inspect the Leaf Spring:**
- Check for visible damage such as cracks, excessive rust, or broken leaves.

5. **Remove the U-bolts:**
- Locate the U-bolts that hold the leaf spring to the axle.
- Use a socket wrench to remove the nuts from the U-bolts, then pull the U-bolts off.

6. **Detach the Leaf Spring:**
- The leaf spring is typically attached at the front with a shackle and at the rear with the axle.
- Use a wrench to remove the bolts securing the shackle at the front of the leaf spring.
- If necessary, use a pry bar to help detach the spring from the axle.

7. **Remove the Old Leaf Spring:**
- Carefully slide the leaf spring out from its position. You may need to wiggle it free.

8. **Prepare the New Leaf Spring:**
- Compare the new leaf spring with the old one to ensure compatibility.
- Install new bushings into the eyes of the new leaf spring if necessary.

9. **Install the New Leaf Spring:**
- Slide the new leaf spring into place where the old one was removed.
- Attach it to the axle and secure it using the U-bolts. Tighten the nuts but do not fully torque them yet.

10. **Reattach the Shackle:**
- Position the front of the leaf spring into the shackle and insert the bolt. Tighten it securely.

11. **Torque the U-bolts:**
- After securing the leaf spring and shackle, go back and torque the U-bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications.

12. **Reinstall the Wheel:**
- Place the wheel back on the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands and then fully tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.

13. **Test Drive:**
- Once everything is reassembled, take the vehicle for a short test drive to ensure the suspension feels stable and there are no unusual sounds.

### Potential Issues:
- **Rust:** If the leaf springs are rusted, they may break during removal. Treat rusted bolts with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them.
- **Improper Installation:** Ensure all components are tightened to specifications; loose parts can lead to suspension failure.
- **Alignment Problems:** If leaf springs are not installed correctly, it can affect the vehicle’s alignment, leading to uneven tire wear.

By following these steps and understanding the underlying principles, you can successfully replace the leaf springs on a Toyota 1DZ-II, ensuring a safe and smooth ride.
rteeqp73

Short overview / theory (why this repair is needed)
- The strut assembly is a shock absorber with a coil spring wrapped around it (MacPherson strut). The strut mount (top mount) sits between the top of the strut and the body. It does two things: (1) physically secures the strut to the chassis and transfers forces; (2) isolates noise and vibration and (on front struts) contains a bearing that lets the strut rotate when you steer.
- If the mount’s rubber degrades or the bearing wears, you get clunks, squeaks, rough ride, steering friction or wander, and accelerated tire wear. Replacing the mount restores NVH control and correct steering feel.
- Analogy: think of the strut mount as the pillow + swivel on a desk lamp — it cushions the lamp and lets you rotate the lamp without twisting the arm.

What each component is and what it does
- Strut / shock absorber: hydraulic damper that controls spring motion; resists oscillation.
- Coil spring: supports vehicle weight and sets ride height.
- Upper spring seat: metal cup at the top that the spring presses against.
- Strut mount (upper mount): rubber/metal piece that bolts the strut top to the chassis; isolates vibration and often houses a bearing.
- Bearing (if present): allows the strut shaft/upper mount to rotate smoothly with steering. Some mounts have integral bearings or thrust washers.
- Dust boot: rubber cover protecting the strut shaft from dirt.
- Bump stop: small rubber/foam bumper on the strut rod to prevent metal-on-metal bottoming.
- Strut top nut: nut that clamps the strut shaft to the mount.
- Lower strut bolts: bolts that attach the strut body to the steering knuckle.
- Sway bar link / brake hose brackets / ABS sensor lines: brackets and attachments that must be disconnected from the strut during removal.
- Spring compressor: tool to safely compress the coil spring to relieve load from the top nut for disassembly.

Tools and supplies (have these ready)
- Vehicle service manual (model-specific torque specs and steps) — mandatory.
- Wheel chocks, hydraulic jack and quality jack stands (never rely on jack alone).
- 1⁄2" or 3⁄8" drive ratchet, breaker bar, sockets and wrenches (common metric sizes).
- Strut nut socket (deep) or appropriate socket for shaft nut.
- Spring compressors (two clamp-style compressors). Inspect for rust/damage.
- Torque wrench covering required ranges.
- Penetrating oil, hammer / dead-blow, pry bar, needle-nose pliers.
- Rubber mallet, punch.
- New strut mount (and bearing if separate), new upper nut (often single-use), new lower bolts/nuts if specified by manual. Optionally replace dust boot / bump stop.
- Safety equipment: safety glasses, gloves.

Safety warnings (read and follow)
- The compressed coil spring stores a lot of energy. Use two clamp-style spring compressors, evenly spaced, rated for your spring. Never compress only one side. Never use a screwdriver/lever to hold a compressed spring. Stand to the side while compressing/decompressing.
- Use jack stands on a flat surface; block wheels.
- If you are not comfortable with spring compressors, have a shop do the spring work.
- Always follow the vehicle service manual for model-specific procedures and torque values.

Step-by-step procedure (typical MacPherson front strut replacement of the mount)
Note: this is a general procedure. Exact bolt locations, sizes, and torque values vary. Always consult the Toyota service manual for 1DZ-II application details and exact specs.

1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly while car on ground.
- Raise the vehicle with jack and support securely with jack stands under recommended lift points. Remove wheel.

2) Access and free the strut
- Spray penetrating oil on lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and any upper nuts (where accessible). Let soak.
- Disconnect sway bar end link from the strut if attached (unbolt link). If link is seized, use penetrating oil and appropriate tool to hold stud to avoid twisting link.
- Unclip brake line and ABS sensor wire from strut bracket; remove bracket bolts if needed so the brake hose is free (do not disconnect brake hose from system, only unclip bracket).
- If the strut is attached to the steering knuckle with a single large nut and one or two bolts, remove the nut(s) and bolts. Support the knuckle/hub assembly (use a jack under lower control arm or a strap) so it does not fall and stress hoses.

3) Remove the strut assembly from the car
- Open hood and locate the upper strut mount nuts inside the engine bay / under cowl. Loosen but do NOT fully remove them until strut is supported — because the strut is under spring tension initially. On most vehicles, remove the top three nuts once lower bolts are out and strut is supported.
- Pull the strut assembly down and out of the vehicle. Note orientation and any markings — mark the position if needed for alignment.

4) Prepare the strut for disassembly
- Clean the area around the upper nut so dirt doesn’t fall into the assembly. Mount the strut securely in a bench vise padded with soft jaws or protective material on the strut body (don’t clamp the shaft).
- Fit two spring compressors opposite each other and tighten a bit until they bite the coil. Compress evenly, alternating sides until the spring is loose on the upper/lower seats. You should take enough coils to remove preload from the top nut; verify that the top of the spring no longer forces up against the top seat.

5) Disassemble the strut
- Hold the strut shaft so it cannot rotate (use the appropriate strut shaft holding tool or an Allen key in the end of the shaft if designed for that), then remove the strut top nut. Some strut shafts have splines — use the recommended holder.
- Remove the nut, then remove the strut mount, bearing, upper spring seat, dust boot, bump stop, and then slowly relieve the spring compressors and remove the spring and components. Keep components in order as you remove them.

6) Inspect components and prepare replacements
- Inspect the spring for cracks, corrosion. Inspect the strut shaft for pitting or oil leaks — if the strut is leaking, replace the entire strut. Inspect the lower spring seat and strut body for damage.
- Replace the strut mount and bearing with new parts. If you’re reusing the spring and strut, also replace dust boot and bump stop if worn. Use new top nut (recommended).

7) Reassemble the strut
- Position spring on lower seat, place upper spring seat, bearing/mount, dust boot, bump stop. Recompress the spring evenly until the strut shaft protrudes enough to thread the new top nut.
- Tighten the top nut to the specified torque listed in the vehicle manual. Verify the bearing rotates smoothly (if applicable) and that the mount is seated correctly.
- Slowly and evenly release the spring compressors. Ensure the spring seats in both upper and lower seats and that the mount is centered.

8) Reinstall the strut assembly in vehicle
- Position the strut back into the strut tower and loosely install the upper nuts to hold it.
- Align the strut lower holes with the knuckle and insert lower bolts. Reinstall lower nuts and torque to spec. Torque the upper nuts to spec with the vehicle on the ground per manual instructions (some manufacturers ask to torque upper nuts with suspension at ride height; check manual).
- Reconnect sway bar links, brake hose bracket, ABS sensor. Replace any cotter pins where required.

9) Final steps
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle to ground, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Pump the steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times and check for clearance and odd noises. Check ride height.
- Recommended: get a wheel alignment after strut removal/installation (especially front struts).

Typical things that can go wrong (and how to avoid)
- Spring compressor failure or incorrect use → violent spring release. Avoid by using two rated compressors, hooking them correctly, and compressing evenly. Never use worn/damaged compressors.
- Not supporting knuckle/control arm → brake lines or CV joints could be overstressed. Always support the hub.
- Over-tightening/under-tightening fasteners → use torque wrench and factory specs. Over-torquing can strip threads or crush bushings; under-torquing can allow fastener failure.
- Reusing a worn bearing/mount → leads to immediate repeat noise/steering issues. Replace mount and bearing when noisy or rubber cracked.
- Forgetting to reattach brake lines/ABS brackets → can cause rubbing or damaged sensors.
- Not performing alignment → uneven tire wear and poor handling.
- Damaged strut shaft or leaking damper → if present, replace entire strut, not just the mount.

Diagnosis checklist (signs the mount is bad)
- Clunking noise over bumps, especially from top of strut.
- Squeaking/creaking when turning steering wheel.
- Steering feels stiff or notchy when turning.
- Visible cracks or separation in the mount rubber, or excessive play in the bearing.
- Uneven tire wear or vehicle pulling.

Torque spec note (critical)
- I cannot guarantee exact torque values for your exact Toyota 1DZ-II chassis and year here; consult the Toyota service manual for the model the engine is in. Typical ranges (only as a guide if manual is unavailable): top strut nut ~20–45 ft·lb (27–61 N·m) depending on design; lower strut-to-knuckle bolts ~60–120 ft·lb (81–163 N·m). Do not rely on these numbers — get factory specs.

Final tips
- Replace mounts in pairs (left and right) to maintain even behavior.
- If the strut is worn (leaks, poor damping), replace the full strut assembly at the same time — new mount on an old leaking strut is a limited repair.
- Keep parts in order during disassembly and take photos if you need reference during reassembly.
- If unsure about spring compressor work or torque sequences, have a professional do it.

No yapping — done.
rteeqp73