he Massey Ferguson 130 is a 2WD utility tractor manufactured by Massey Ferguson in France from 1966 to 1972. The Massey Ferguson 130 is equipped with a 1.8 L (107.0 cu·in) four-cylinder diesel engine and a transmission with 8 forward and 2 reverse gears.

The Massey Ferguson 130 utility tractor used the Perkins A4.107 engine. It is a 1.8 L, 1,753 cm2, (107.0 cu·in) four-cylinder natural aspirated diesel engine with 79.0 mm (3.11 in) of the cylinder bore and 89.0 mm (3.5 in) of the piston stroke. The compression ratio rating is 22.0:1. This engine produced 30.5 PS (22.4 kW; 30.0 HP) at 2,250 rpm of output power and 103.0 N·m (10.5 kg·m, 75.9 ft·lb) at 1,250 rpm of torque.

The MF 130 is equipped with manual steering, differential mechanical disc brakes, open operator station, and 45.5 liters (12 US gal.; 10 Imp. gal) fuel tank.

 

Massey Ferguson 130 Specifications

General Specifications
Model	Massey Ferguson 130
Length	2,760 mm (108.7 in)
Width	1,600 mm (63 in)
Height	1,390 mm (54.7 in)
Wheel base	–
Ground clearance	340 mm (13.4 in)
Weight	1,455 kg (3,208 lbs)
Fuel tank capacity	45.5 liters (12 US gal.; 10 Imp. gal)
Battery	12V, 80Ah
Cabin type	Open operator station
Engine
Engine model	Perkins A4-107
Engine type	Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, inline
Cylinders	4
Fuel type	Diesel
Displacement	1.8 L, 1,753 cm2, (107.0 cu·in)
Bore and stroke	79.0 mm X 89.0 mm (3.11 in X 3.5 in)
Compression ratio	22.0:1
Horsepower	30.5 PS (22.4 kW; 30.0 HP) at 2,250 rpm
Torque	103.0 N·m (10.5 kg·m, 75.9 ft·lb) at 1,250 rpm
Starter	Electric
Oil capacity:	5.4 L (5.7 US. qt, 4.8 Imp. qt.)
Coolant capacity:	6.7 L (7.1 US. qt, 5.9 Imp. qt.)

Transmission and chassis
Chassis	4×2 2WD
Steering type	Manual
Brakes	Differential mechanical disc
Transmission model	–
Transmission type	–
Gears	8 forward and 2 reverse
Transmission oil capacity	4.8 L (1.3 US. gal, 1.1 Imp. gal.)
Tires
Front tires	Ag: 5×16
Rear tires	Ag: 10/12.4-28

Three-Point Hitch
Caterogy	I
Control type	–
Lift capacity (at ends)	1,010 kg (2,225 lbs)
PTO (Power take-off shaft)
Rear PTO type	Live
Rear PTO speed	540 rpm
Hydraulic system
Hydraulic type	–
Hydraulic capacity	19.0 L (20.08 US. qt, 16.72 Imp. qt.)
Pressure	1990 psi (137.2 bar)

 

### Suspension Lowering Kit Installation on a Massey Ferguson 130

#### Theory Behind Suspension Lowering

The suspension system in a Massey Ferguson 130, like in many vehicles, is designed to support the weight of the machine, provide stability, and ensure a smooth ride. Lowering the suspension can improve handling, reduce the center of gravity, and enhance aesthetics. However, this can also lead to issues like reduced ground clearance and increased wear on suspension components.

### Components of a Suspension Lowering Kit

1. **Lowering Springs**: These are shorter than factory springs. They compress less under load, resulting in a lower ride height.

2. **Spring Perches or Spacers**: These are added to adjust the height without changing springs. They are used to lower the suspension by changing the mounting points.

3. **Shock Absorbers**: If the kit includes new shocks, these are typically shorter to match the new lower ride height.

4. **Alignment Bolts or Camber Kits**: These help correct the alignment after lowering, ensuring proper tire wear and handling.

5. **Instruction Manual**: This will guide you through the installation process step-by-step.

### Tools Required

- Jack and jack stands
- Wrench set
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Spring compressor (if necessary)
- Screwdriver set
- Alignment tools (optional but recommended)

### Installation Steps

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the Massey Ferguson 130 on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
- Gather all tools and the suspension lowering kit components.

2. **Lifting the Vehicle**:
- Use a jack to lift the front or rear of the tractor, depending on where you are installing the kit. Secure with jack stands.

3. **Removing the Old Springs**:
- Locate the suspension components. Identify the shock absorber and spring.
- Use a wrench to detach the shock absorber from its mount.
- If equipped with a spring compressor, attach it to the old spring and compress it.
- Remove the bolts securing the spring perch and carefully take out the old spring.

4. **Installing the Lowering Springs**:
- Place the new lowering spring in the spring perch. Ensure it is seated correctly.
- Reattach the spring perch and secure it with bolts. Torque to manufacturer specifications.

5. **Installing Shock Absorbers**:
- If new shock absorbers are included, install them according to the instructions. They should be shorter than the originals.
- Attach the top and bottom mounts securely.

6. **Alignment Adjustments**:
- If the kit includes alignment bolts, replace the factory bolts with the new ones. Adjust as necessary to correct camber and toe settings.
- Check the alignment of the wheels using alignment tools. It’s best to consult with a professional if you’re unsure.

7. **Reassembly**:
- Double-check all connections and ensure everything is tightened to the right torque specifications.
- Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.

8. **Final Inspection**:
- Inspect the suspension components visually for any signs of misalignment or improper installation.
- Take the tractor for a short test drive at low speed, listening for any unusual noises.

### Potential Problems

- **Incorrect Installation**: If springs are not seated properly, it can cause handling issues.
- **Alignment Issues**: Not adjusting alignment can lead to uneven tire wear and poor handling.
- **Increased Wear**: Lowering the suspension can lead to excessive wear on suspension and steering components if not done correctly.

### Conclusion

Installing a suspension lowering kit on a Massey Ferguson 130 can enhance handling and aesthetics but must be done carefully to avoid complications. Always consult the manual and consider seeking professional help if unsure.
rteeqp73

- **Safety Precautions**
- **Wear Safety Gear:** Always wear gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from dirt and potential sharp objects.
- **Work in a Safe Environment:** Ensure the tractor is on a flat surface and the parking brake is engaged to prevent rolling.

- **Basic Tools Needed**
- **Socket Set:** A set of sockets (1/2-inch drive recommended) is essential for removing bolts and nuts. Use a ratchet to apply torque efficiently.
- **Wrenches:** An adjustable wrench or a set of open-end wrenches will help in loosening or tightening nuts that may be hard to reach with a socket.
- **Pliers:** Needle-nose or standard pliers are useful for gripping small parts or pulling hoses.
- **Screwdrivers:** A flathead and a Phillips screwdriver will help you remove any cover panels or components obstructing access to the air suspension system.

- **Specialized Tools (if required)**
- **Air Pressure Gauge:** Useful for checking the air pressure in the suspension system to ensure it operates within specifications.
- **Torque Wrench:** Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications, preventing future issues.

- **Initial Inspection**
- **Visual Check:** Inspect the air suspension components visually for leaks, cracks, or signs of wear. Look for any air lines that may be damaged.
- **Listen for Air Leaks:** When the tractor is running, listen for hissing sounds that indicate air leaks in the suspension system.

- **Identifying Faulty Parts**
- If you find visible damage or hear a leak, you may need to replace components like air bags, air lines, or fittings.

- **Disassembly**
- **Disconnect Air Lines:** Use pliers to carefully disconnect the air lines from the air bags or suspension components. Have a rag handy to catch any residual air or fluid.
- **Remove Air Bags:** Use the socket set to remove bolts securing the air bags to the suspension. Carefully pull the air bags away from the suspension arms.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Air Bags:** If damaged, replace them with new air bags compatible with the Massey Ferguson 130. Ensure you purchase the correct model from a reputable supplier.
- **Air Lines/Fittings:** If the air lines are cracked or leaking, replace them. Look for kits that include all necessary fittings for a complete repair.

- **Installation of New Parts**
- **Install New Air Bags:** Position the new air bags where the old ones were located. Secure them using the original bolts and the socket set.
- **Reconnect Air Lines:** Reattach the air lines to the new air bags, ensuring they are snug but not over-tightened to avoid damage.

- **Final Checks**
- **Recheck Connections:** Ensure all bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's torque specifications using the torque wrench.
- **Test Air Pressure:** Use the air pressure gauge to check the air suspension pressure and adjust as necessary.

- **Testing the System**
- **Start the Tractor:** Run the tractor and observe the suspension for any irregularities. Listen for air leaks and check for proper operation of the air bags.

- **Clean Up**
- **Dispose of Old Parts:** Properly dispose of any old components and clean your workspace to prevent accidents.

This guide provides a succinct and practical approach to air suspension repair on a Massey Ferguson 130, suitable for a beginner with basic tools.
rteeqp73

- Safety first (read and follow these; do not skip)
- Work in a well-ventilated, non‑smoking area; gasoline/diesel vapors are flammable and toxic.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting to prevent sparks.
- Wear safety glasses, chemical-resistant gloves, and keep a fire extinguisher rated for fuel fires nearby.
- Catch fuel in a sealed metal or approved plastic container; keep rags and spill materials handy; clean spills immediately.
- If rusty/old fittings are seized, apply penetrating oil and take care to avoid sudden breaks or sparks.

- Tools you’ll need (basic tools + how to use them)
- Combination wrench set (open-end + box-end)
- Description: open-end for quick turn and box-end for full grip on nuts/bolts.
- Use: choose the size that fits the bolt head fully; use the box-end when loosening tight bolts to avoid rounding.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Description: sockets match bolt heads; ratchet lets you spin bolts quickly; extensions reach tight spots.
- Use: pick the correct socket, push it fully onto the fastener, use the correct drive (1/4", 3/8") and an extension if visibility is poor.
- Line (flare) wrenches / fuel-line wrenches
- Description: six- or seven-sided wrench that wraps more around the nut.
- Use: slip onto fuel fittings and turn to avoid rounding off thin fuel-line nuts; hold the fitting with one wrench and turn the nut with the line wrench.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: for hose clamps and small fasteners.
- Use: use a correctly sized blade to avoid camming out; for clamp screws, hold firm and turn slowly.
- Pliers (slip-joint and long-nose)
- Description: general gripping; long-nose for reaching/tweaking small parts.
- Use: use slip-joint for clamp removal, long-nose for retaining clips or positioning small parts.
- Hose clamp pliers or adjustable pliers
- Description: for spring-type fuel hose clamps.
- Use: squeeze and hold open to remove or install spring clamps; for screw clamps use screwdriver.
- Container for drained fuel (metal can or approved plastic jerry can)
- Description: to catch fuel drained from lines.
- Use: place under pump, loosen line slowly and let fuel drain into container; cap container when done.
- Clean rags / shop towels and small brush
- Description: wipe surfaces and clean mounting faces.
- Use: clean gasket surfaces thoroughly before installing new pump.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) and wire brush
- Description: loosens seized bolts/fittings.
- Use: spray, let soak 10–15 minutes, brush, then attempt to loosen.
- New gasket(s) or O‑ring and replacement hose clamps
- Description: pump mounting gasket and fresh hose clamps.
- Use: always fit a new gasket to prevent leaks and use new clamps on old brittle hoses.
- Torque wrench (recommended but optional)
- Description: allows tightening bolts to specification.
- Use: set recommended torque (if available in manual) and tighten bolts evenly. If you don’t have one, tighten evenly until snug then a small additional fraction-turn; do not over‑torque.
- Small funnel and hand pump or squeeze bulb (optional but helpful)
- Description: for priming and adding fuel to lines without spillage.
- Use: funnel to pour fuel into filter bowl or tank port; hand primer to push fuel into pump before starting.
- Shop light / flashlight and a mirror
- Description: improves visibility in tight engine bay areas.
- Use: illuminate the pump and fittings so you can see lines and connections clearly.

- Extra tools you may need and why
- Line-of-fuel tool or bench vice: If fittings are seized, you may need to hold the fitting securely without twisting the line.
- Air compressor and low-pressure blowgun (for cleaning ports): to clear debris carefully after sealing fuel lines.
- Injector/bleed tools (if your tractor requires bleeding at injectors): required on diesel engines to fully remove air from high-pressure circuits. Most MF 130 lift-pump jobs only need low-pressure bleeding at filter or pump inlet.
- Replacement fuel line hose (if old is cracked): required if hoses are soft, cracked or hardened; failed hoses leak or introduce air.

- Parts likely required (what to replace and why)
- Replacement fuel pump (mechanical diaphragm/petrol or lift pump)
- Why: old pumps fail (diaphragm leak, worn valves) causing hard starting, poor running, or fuel starvation.
- What to get: pump specified for Massey Ferguson 130 (match the pump by comparing the old pump or get the parts manual/serial number). Take the old pump to a tractor parts supplier or order OEM/quality aftermarket pump labeled for MF 130. Do not guess by appearance only — confirm fit and mounting flange and inlet/outlet thread sizes.
- Mounting gasket or O‑ring
- Why: prevents fuel leaks at pump-to-block flange.
- What to get: exact gasket for your pump; if not available, a correctly sized paper/gasket material cut or a reusable O‑ring if applicable.
- Fuel filter / sediment bowl or cartridge
- Why: when replacing a pump you expose contamination; replace the filter to avoid recontamination of the new pump.
- What to get: new in-line filter or replacement element specified for MF 130.
- Fuel hose and new hose clamps (recommended)
- Why: old hoses become brittle or porous and clamps weaken; new components prevent leaks and air ingress.
- What to get: fuel-rated hose of the correct inner diameter, and quality screw or spring clamps.

- Step-by-step replacement procedure (for a beginner; keep calm and go slow)
- Prepare
- Park tractor on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake, shut off engine and remove key.
- Disconnect negative battery cable.
- Turn fuel shutoff (if present) to OFF; otherwise be ready to catch drained fuel.
- Access pump
- Locate the fuel pump (usually mounted on engine block or near injection pump/fuel tank area on MF 130). Use light to see connections.
- Remove any obstructions or covers to reach the pump.
- Relieve and catch fuel
- Place the fuel catch container beneath pump and line connections.
- Loosen the inlet and outlet hose clamps/fittings slowly to drain residual fuel. Use line wrenches on threaded fittings to avoid rounding them.
- Cap or seal hoses once drained to reduce spills.
- Label and remove fuel lines
- Mark which hose goes where (take photos with your phone).
- Remove hoses/clamps and any metal pipe fittings—hold the pump body steady while turning the nut so you don’t stress other pipework.
- If fittings are stuck, apply penetrating oil, let sit, then reattempt with line wrench.
- Remove mounting bolts
- Remove the bolts securing the pump to the engine block with the socket or wrench; keep bolts and spacers in a safe place.
- Pull the pump straight off the mounting face; if stuck, gently pry with a flat screwdriver at the gasket edge—don’t gouge mounting surfaces.
- Inspect mounting surface and pump
- Clean the mounting face with a clean rag and a small brush; remove old gasket material without letting debris fall into ports.
- Inspect the pump inlet/outlet for blockages; if you’re replacing due to diaphragm failure, internal inspection is less useful—replace.
- Fit new gasket and new pump
- Place new gasket correctly (wet lightly with fuel or gasket sealer if the instructions ask; many pumps require a dry gasket—follow pump instructions).
- Position new pump on the mounting studs and start bolts by hand to ensure alignment. Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- If you have torque specs from a manual, use torque wrench; otherwise tighten snugly and then a small extra turn—do not over-tighten.
- Reconnect fuel lines and filter
- Reinstall fuel lines to the correct inlet/outlet positions; use a line wrench on threaded metal fittings.
- Replace fuel filter or element now if replacing. Tighten hose clamps securely.
- Prime the system (remove air)
- Open fuel shutoff valve (if applicable).
- If pump has a primer lever, use it as instructed until a steady fuel flow appears and air is expelled.
- If not, loosen bleed screw on filter or on a downstream fitting and crank the engine (or use hand cranking) until fuel and no air come out, then tighten the bleed screw.
- Alternatively, pour a little fuel into the filter housing (with a funnel) and crank to pull fuel through.
- Reconnect battery and start engine
- Reconnect negative battery cable.
- Start the engine and listen for leaks and pump operation. Watch for fuel dripping at all connections.
- Final checks
- Run the engine for several minutes to ensure steady operation.
- Recheck all fittings for leaks and re-tighten clamps if needed.
- Dispose of used fuel and old parts safely (local hazardous waste facility or approved recycling).

- Troubleshooting brief (if things don’t work after install)
- No fuel flow / engine won’t start
- Check fuel shutoff, bleed air again, ensure filter is filled, check that lines are properly connected and not pinched.
- Leaks at fittings
- Tighten fittings; replace gasket or O‑ring; replace damaged hose.
- Pump arm or linkage binding
- Check linkage alignment and clearance; ensure mounting bolts are not overtightening and distorting pump.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Store old fuel in sealed container and take to hazardous waste or reuse appropriately if clean.
- Wipe up residue, wash hands and tools with appropriate solvent, ventilate workspace.

- Quick notes on parts selection and buying
- Always match pump to the tractor serial or original part number where possible; bring old pump to parts counter.
- Choose a reputable aftermarket brand or OEM—cheap pumps may fail fast and risk engine damage.
- Replace associated consumables (gasket, filter, hose clamps) at the same time for reliability.

- Final practical tips
- Work patiently; seized fittings are normal on old tractors—penetrating oil + time = success.
- Photograph each step if you’re unsure about reassembly order.
- If the pump is bolted near the injection pump or injectors (diesel), bleeding procedure may be slightly different — follow bleed steps for diesel: bleed at filter and/or injectors until fuel flows without air.

No more questions.
rteeqp73