About the Massey Ferguson MF135

Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The next big selling model was the MF135, widely popular because of its reliability and power compared with other tractors at the time. This was the first model in the MF 100 series. The Massey Ferguson 135 is a popular tractor. In fact it is one of the most popular tractors for vintage and classic enthusiasts.

Massey Ferguson MF135 and MF148 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual

### Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Planetary Gear Set on Massey Ferguson MF135/MF148 Tractor

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (metric and imperial)
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Pry Bar**
4. **Puller Tool**
5. **Hammer**
6. **Snap Ring Pliers**
7. **Seal Puller**
8. **Oil Drain Pan**
9. **Clean Rags**
10. **Gasket Scraper**
11. **Grease**
12. **Replacement Parts**:
- Planetary gear set
- Seals and gaskets (as needed)
- Oil (to refill)

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Disconnect Battery**: Always disconnect the battery before starting any repair work.
2. **Use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)**: Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
3. **Stabilize the Tractor**: Ensure the tractor is on a level surface and use wheel chocks to prevent rolling.
4. **Hydraulic Safety**: Relieve hydraulic pressure before working on hydraulic components.

#### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation**:
- Gather all tools and replacement parts.
- Read through the service manual for specific torque specifications.

2. **Drain the Oil**:
- Place an oil drain pan underneath the transmission.
- Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to fully drain.

3. **Remove the Wheel**:
- Use a socket wrench to remove the lug nuts.
- Take off the wheel to access the axle.

4. **Remove Axle Housing**:
- Disconnect any hydraulic lines or electrical connections.
- Unbolt the axle housing using the appropriate socket.
- Carefully slide the axle housing off the axle shaft.

5. **Access Planetary Gear Set**:
- Once the axle housing is removed, observe the planetary assembly.
- Use snap ring pliers to remove any retaining rings securing the planetary gear set.

6. **Remove Planetary Gear Set**:
- Use a puller tool to carefully extract the planetary gear set from the housing.
- Be cautious of any additional seals or bearings that may need to be replaced.

7. **Inspect Components**:
- Check the planetary gears for wear or damage.
- Inspect the housing for cracks or significant wear.

8. **Install New Planetary Gear Set**:
- Place the new planetary gear set into the housing.
- Ensure it is seated correctly and aligned with the housing.

9. **Reinstall Retaining Rings**:
- Use snap ring pliers to secure the retaining rings back into place.

10. **Reassemble the Axle Housing**:
- Reattach the axle housing over the planetary gear set.
- Bolt it back in place using the torque wrench to the manufacturer’s specified torque.

11. **Reattach Wheel**:
- Put the wheel back on the axle.
- Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.

12. **Refill Oil**:
- Replace the drain plug and refill the transmission with the appropriate oil.
- Check the level according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

13. **Reconnect Battery**:
- Reconnect the battery terminals.

14. **Test the Tractor**:
- Start the tractor and check for any unusual noises or leaks.
- Test the functionality of the transmission and ensure smooth operation.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Forgetting to Relieve Hydraulic Pressure**: This can lead to accidents.
- **Misaligning Components**: Ensure all gears and components are aligned correctly during reassembly.
- **Neglecting to Replace Seals/Gaskets**: Always replace old seals and gaskets to prevent leaks.
- **Not Using Proper Torque Specifications**: Always adhere to manufacturer torque specs to avoid component failure.

By following these steps and precautions, you can successfully replace the planetary gear set on a Massey Ferguson MF135/MF148 tractor.
rteeqp73

### Air Suspension Repair on Massey Ferguson MF135 / M148 Tractor

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Air Suspension Repair Kit** (includes air bags, fittings, etc.)
2. **Wrenches** (various sizes, typically 10mm to 19mm)
3. **Socket Set** (with ratchet)
4. **Torque Wrench**
5. **Pliers**
6. **Air Compressor** (for testing)
7. **Vacuum Pump** (if needed for air removal)
8. **Jack and Jack Stands**
9. **Wheel Chocks**
10. **Safety Glasses**
11. **Gloves**
12. **Shop Manual** (for reference)

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Ensure the Tractor is Off**: Before starting any work, turn off the engine and remove the key.
2. **Use Wheel Chocks**: Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent rolling.
3. **Lift Safely**: Use jack stands when lifting the tractor with a jack.
4. **Wear Safety Gear**: Always use gloves and safety glasses to protect from debris.

#### Step-by-Step Repair Process:

1. **Diagnose the Problem**:
- Check for visible damage to air bags, lines, and fittings.
- Inspect for leaks by listening for hissing sounds or using soapy water on suspected areas.

2. **Lift the Tractor**:
- Use the hydraulic jack to lift the rear of the tractor.
- Secure the tractor with jack stands to ensure stability.

3. **Remove Wheels (if necessary)**:
- Remove the lug nuts using a wrench or socket to access the suspension components better.

4. **Deflate Air Bags**:
- If the air bags are inflated, use the air compressor to release the air pressure.
- Make sure to relieve all pressure to avoid accidents.

5. **Disconnect Air Lines**:
- Use pliers to carefully disconnect the air lines from the air bags and fittings.
- Be cautious to prevent damaging the lines.

6. **Remove Old Air Bags**:
- Use the appropriate wrench or socket to unbolt the air bags from their mounts.
- Carefully take out the old air bags and inspect the mounting area for damage.

7. **Install New Air Bags**:
- Position the new air bags in place and secure them with bolts.
- Torque the bolts to the specifications provided in the shop manual.

8. **Reconnect Air Lines**:
- Attach the air lines to the new air bags, ensuring a snug fit to prevent leaks.

9. **Reinflate Air Bags**:
- Use the air compressor to inflate the air bags to the proper pressure.
- Monitor for any leaks by listening or using soapy water.

10. **Reinstall Wheels**:
- If removed, place the wheels back on and secure them with lug nuts.
- Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.

11. **Lower the Tractor**:
- Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the tractor back to the ground using the hydraulic jack.

12. **Test the Air Suspension**:
- Start the tractor and check the air suspension function.
- Observe for any irregularities in handling or suspension height.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Neglecting Safety**: Always prioritize safety measures; accidents can happen quickly.
- **Ignoring Manual Specifications**: Use the shop manual for torque specifications and proper installation techniques.
- **Overinflation**: Ensure the air bags are inflated to the correct pressure; overinflation can cause failure.
- **Skipping Leak Tests**: Always test for leaks after installation; even small leaks can lead to issues later.

#### Replacement Parts:
- If the air bags are damaged, ensure you have the correct replacement parts from the manufacturer or a reputable supplier.
- Inspect and replace any damaged air lines or fittings during the repair process.

By following these steps and precautions, you can effectively repair the air suspension on a Massey Ferguson MF135 or M148 tractor.
rteeqp73

- Safety first (read these before doing anything)
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, hearing protection and a respirator if grinding or welding.
- Work with the engine off, key removed, and battery negative terminal disconnected to avoid accidental starts or sparks.
- Let the exhaust fully cool before touching it — exhaust parts retain heat for a long time.
- Chock wheels and support the tractor securely on jack stands or ramps rated for the tractor’s weight — never work under an unsupported machine.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; exhaust work can release soot and fumes.
- If you will cut or weld, keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clear flammable materials.

- Tools you need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set (both metric and imperial sizes, 3/8" drive with extensions)
- Purpose: remove nuts and bolts on flanges, clamps and brackets.
- How to use: choose the correct socket size, place on ratchet, use extension for hard-to-reach bolts, pull steady and even to avoid rounding heads.
- Ratchet and breaker bar
- Purpose: apply torque to sockets; breaker bar gives extra leverage for seized bolts.
- How to use: use ratchet for general removal; use breaker bar for stubborn fasteners with controlled, steady force.
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end)
- Purpose: hold nuts or bolts when a socket can’t fit.
- How to use: use the box end for best grip on bolt heads; avoid slipping by seating fully.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil or similar)
- Purpose: loosen rusted/seized fasteners.
- How to use: spray on bolts and let soak for several hours or overnight; reapply as needed.
- Wire brush or flap wheel
- Purpose: clean rust and carbon off flange faces and fasteners.
- How to use: scrub flange mating surfaces and bolt threads before reassembly for a better seal.
- Impact driver or impact wrench (optional but very useful)
- Purpose: loosen very rusty bolts quickly.
- How to use: use conservatively to avoid breaking studs; an impact wrench delivers rapid torque pulses to free seized fasteners.
- Torque wrench
- Purpose: tighten bolts to proper specification to avoid leaks or broken studs.
- How to use: set to recommended torque (use service manual if available) and tighten in sequence to the set value.
- Exhaust clamps and replacement studs/nuts/gaskets
- Purpose: replace corroded hardware and seals for a leak-free reassembly.
- How to use: fit new gaskets and hand-tighten new studs/nuts/clamps, then torque properly.
- Pry bar
- Purpose: separate flanged parts if they are stuck together.
- How to use: apply gentle leverage at the flange seam; protect surfaces with a block of wood to avoid damage.
- Hacksaw, reciprocating saw with metal blade, or cutoff wheel (angle grinder) — only if converter is welded or rusted through
- Purpose: cut through exhaust pipe or welded sections when bolts/studs cannot be removed intact.
- How to use: cut slowly, keep sparks away from fuel/oil, wear face shield; an oscillating reciprocating saw with the right blade is safer than a cutting wheel in tight areas.
- Angle grinder with flap disc or cutting wheel (use with caution)
- Purpose: cut/separate badly corroded sections or smooth flange faces.
- How to use: hold firmly, cut in short controlled passes; wear a face shield and respirator.
- Propane torch or oxy-acetylene torch (use with high caution)
- Purpose: heat stuck studs/bolts to expand metal and free them.
- How to use: heat the bolt area evenly, then apply penetrating oil and try breaker bar; do not heat near rubber hoses, fuel lines, or flammable materials.
- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG/stick) — only if you will weld new pipe sections or attach a universal converter
- Purpose: join exhaust pipe sections permanently.
- How to use: only if you are competent in welding; welds must be gas-tight and even. If inexperienced, have a professional weld.
- Floor jack and jack stands or ramps (rated for tractor weight)
- Purpose: raise and support the tractor safely for access under the exhaust.
- How to use: use floor jack under a secure lift point, place jack stands, lower onto stands, and double-check stability.
- Wire or bungee cords
- Purpose: support heavy parts like muffler or converter while disconnecting hangers.
- How to use: loop around the part and secure to a stable frame point to hold weight.
- Gloves and rags, bucket for old gasket fragments
- Purpose: cleanup and handling hot/dirty parts.

- Extra tools you might need and why
- Impact wrench or air tools: needed if bolts are heavily corroded and hand tools won’t free them.
- Cutting tools (recip saw, grinder): required if studs/bolts are seized and must be cut; prevents stripping and saves time.
- Welding kit and filler wire: required if replacement converter is being welded into place or if pipe ends must be joined permanently.
- Replacement studs and nuts or a stud extractor set: required when flange studs break or are too corroded to reuse.
- Service manual for MF135: gives torque specs and exhaust layout; strongly recommended to ensure correct reassembly.

- Parts that may need replacing and why
- Catalytic converter assembly (OEM or appropriate replacement)
- Why: converter can be plugged, damaged, or corroded and will cause loss of power, excessive smoke, or failed emissions.
- What to buy: an MF135-specific exhaust/catalyst assembly if available, or a universal converter sized to fit the pipe diameter and mounting points. Match flange pattern and pipe diameter.
- Exhaust gasket(s) and sealing rings
- Why: old gaskets are crushed and leak; always replace to prevent exhaust leaks.
- What to buy: new flange gaskets sized to the converter/manifold flanges.
- Exhaust studs, nuts, bolts and clamps
- Why: these corrode and often break when being removed; replacing ensures a reliable reassembly.
- What to buy: high-temperature grade hardware (stainless or coated where possible).
- Exhaust pipe sections, muffler or hangers (if damaged)
- Why: rusted-through piping or broken hangers require replacement to support new converter and prevent leaks.
- Oxygen sensor (if present — many MF135s may not have one)
- Why: if damaged or if your replacement converter requires fitting an O2 sensor.
- Heat wraps or anti-seize compound
- Why: heat wrap can reduce heat soak, anti-seize on threads helps future disassembly.

- How to decide if the catalytic converter actually needs replacement
- Visual inspection: heavy rust-through holes, collapsed shell, or obvious external damage means replacement.
- Rattle test: a rattling internal substrate indicates broken internals — replace.
- Performance symptoms: significant power loss, increased smoke, or excessive backpressure usually indicate the converter is blocked or failed.
- Simple check: remove downstream pipe and look through converter (when cool); if clogged or glowing hot unevenly it’s suspect.
- If unsure and the converter is an OEM emission device, check with a mechanic or supplier — catalytic failures can sometimes be confirmed with exhaust backpressure testing.

- Step-by-step replacement procedure (high level, safe, and practical)
- Prepare the tractor: park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative terminal, let exhaust cool.
- Support the tractor: raise and support with jack stands or ramps if needed for access; ensure stability.
- Inspect and free fasteners: spray penetrating oil on all flange nuts and studs, let soak for several hours or overnight.
- Support the exhaust assembly: use wire or straps to hold muffler/converter weight so it won’t drop when disconnected.
- Remove heat shields/hangers that obstruct access: use socket/wrenches and keep parts organized for reassembly.
- Unbolt flange connections: use the correct socket or wrench; use a breaker bar or impact tool if needed. If studs break, remove what you can — you may need a stud extractor or cut the studs and use new studs.
- Cut if necessary: if bolts/studs cannot be removed or pipe is welded, cut the pipe at an accessible point with a recip saw or grinder. Cut carefully, avoiding fuel lines and other components.
- Remove old converter: lower it gently and set aside for proper disposal or scrap sale.
- Clean flange faces and mating surfaces: use a wire brush to remove corrosion and old gasket material.
- Fit new gasket and converter: align new converter and gasket; hand-start bolts or nuts to ensure threads engage.
- Install new hardware: use new studs/nuts/clamps where possible; tighten by hand first, then torque progressively to spec if known (or snug then check for leaks).
- Weld if required: if welding new sections, tack first to check alignment, then complete weld. If you cannot weld to a professional standard, use proper flange/clamp solutions.
- Reattach hangers and shields: ensure the exhaust is supported in its original position with correct hanger tension.
- Reconnect battery and test: start engine, check for exhaust leaks (feel for leaks with a gloved hand away from the outlet, or use soapy water at cold engine for leaks), listen for rattles and ensure normal running.
- Final check: after a short run to operating temperature, re-torque hardware if recommended and inspect for leaks or loose hangers.

- Tips for seized bolts and broken studs
- Soak with penetrating oil and let sit; tap the bolt/head with a hammer to help oil penetrate.
- Heat the nut/stud (with care) to expand metal and break the rust bond; cool quickly and try again.
- Use an impact tool for sudden torque pulses to free corrosion.
- If a stud breaks flush, use a left-hand twist drill bit to attempt removal or a stud extractor set.
- If removal would damage the manifold flange, consider cutting the stud and installing a new stud from the back or use a repair flange.

- Testing and troubleshooting after replacement
- Look and listen for leaks while engine is idling — leaks are obvious as hissing or soot at joints.
- Check for improved performance and reduced smoke; a stuck/blocked converter often causes power loss that should improve.
- If there is still a problem, check for exhaust backpressure issues, air intake problems, or fuel system faults — the converter isn’t always the only cause.

- Disposal and legal notes
- Catalytic converters contain valuable metals — many scrap yards accept them, but local regulations vary; keep receipts and follow local laws when selling or disposing.
- If your tractor is used on public roads, check local emissions rules about replacing or removing converters.

- Final practical advice
- If you are a beginner and hardware is badly corroded or welding/cutting is required, consider having a muffler/exhaust shop or qualified mechanic do the removal/installation — it’s safer and typically cheaper than replacing broken studs or fixing mistakes.
- Get a parts list from a Massey Ferguson parts supplier or supply the old part to match flange and pipe diameters when buying a replacement.

(No questions.)
rteeqp73