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Massey Ferguson 1968 MF135 and M148 tractor factory workshop and repair manual download
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1968 Massey Ferguson MF135 and MF148 Tractor factory workshop and repair manualon PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . File size 103 Mb PDF document searchable with bookmarks. The PDF manual covers Introduction |
About the Massey Ferguson MF135
Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The next big selling model was the MF135, widely popular because of its reliability and power compared with other tractors at the time. This was the first model in the MF 100 series. The Massey Ferguson 135 is a popular tractor. In fact it is one of the most popular tractors for vintage and classic enthusiasts.
Massey Ferguson MF135 and MF148 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual
### Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Planetary Gear Set on Massey Ferguson MF135/MF148 Tractor
#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (metric and imperial)
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Pry Bar**
4. **Puller Tool**
5. **Hammer**
6. **Snap Ring Pliers**
7. **Seal Puller**
8. **Oil Drain Pan**
9. **Clean Rags**
10. **Gasket Scraper**
11. **Grease**
12. **Replacement Parts**:
- Planetary gear set
- Seals and gaskets (as needed)
- Oil (to refill)
#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Disconnect Battery**: Always disconnect the battery before starting any repair work.
2. **Use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)**: Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
3. **Stabilize the Tractor**: Ensure the tractor is on a level surface and use wheel chocks to prevent rolling.
4. **Hydraulic Safety**: Relieve hydraulic pressure before working on hydraulic components.
#### Step-by-Step Procedure:
1. **Preparation**:
- Gather all tools and replacement parts.
- Read through the service manual for specific torque specifications.
2. **Drain the Oil**:
- Place an oil drain pan underneath the transmission.
- Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to fully drain.
3. **Remove the Wheel**:
- Use a socket wrench to remove the lug nuts.
- Take off the wheel to access the axle.
4. **Remove Axle Housing**:
- Disconnect any hydraulic lines or electrical connections.
- Unbolt the axle housing using the appropriate socket.
- Carefully slide the axle housing off the axle shaft.
5. **Access Planetary Gear Set**:
- Once the axle housing is removed, observe the planetary assembly.
- Use snap ring pliers to remove any retaining rings securing the planetary gear set.
6. **Remove Planetary Gear Set**:
- Use a puller tool to carefully extract the planetary gear set from the housing.
- Be cautious of any additional seals or bearings that may need to be replaced.
7. **Inspect Components**:
- Check the planetary gears for wear or damage.
- Inspect the housing for cracks or significant wear.
8. **Install New Planetary Gear Set**:
- Place the new planetary gear set into the housing.
- Ensure it is seated correctly and aligned with the housing.
9. **Reinstall Retaining Rings**:
- Use snap ring pliers to secure the retaining rings back into place.
10. **Reassemble the Axle Housing**:
- Reattach the axle housing over the planetary gear set.
- Bolt it back in place using the torque wrench to the manufacturer’s specified torque.
11. **Reattach Wheel**:
- Put the wheel back on the axle.
- Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
12. **Refill Oil**:
- Replace the drain plug and refill the transmission with the appropriate oil.
- Check the level according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
13. **Reconnect Battery**:
- Reconnect the battery terminals.
14. **Test the Tractor**:
- Start the tractor and check for any unusual noises or leaks.
- Test the functionality of the transmission and ensure smooth operation.
#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Forgetting to Relieve Hydraulic Pressure**: This can lead to accidents.
- **Misaligning Components**: Ensure all gears and components are aligned correctly during reassembly.
- **Neglecting to Replace Seals/Gaskets**: Always replace old seals and gaskets to prevent leaks.
- **Not Using Proper Torque Specifications**: Always adhere to manufacturer torque specs to avoid component failure.
By following these steps and precautions, you can successfully replace the planetary gear set on a Massey Ferguson MF135/MF148 tractor.
rteeqp73
#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (metric and imperial)
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Pry Bar**
4. **Puller Tool**
5. **Hammer**
6. **Snap Ring Pliers**
7. **Seal Puller**
8. **Oil Drain Pan**
9. **Clean Rags**
10. **Gasket Scraper**
11. **Grease**
12. **Replacement Parts**:
- Planetary gear set
- Seals and gaskets (as needed)
- Oil (to refill)
#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Disconnect Battery**: Always disconnect the battery before starting any repair work.
2. **Use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)**: Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
3. **Stabilize the Tractor**: Ensure the tractor is on a level surface and use wheel chocks to prevent rolling.
4. **Hydraulic Safety**: Relieve hydraulic pressure before working on hydraulic components.
#### Step-by-Step Procedure:
1. **Preparation**:
- Gather all tools and replacement parts.
- Read through the service manual for specific torque specifications.
2. **Drain the Oil**:
- Place an oil drain pan underneath the transmission.
- Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to fully drain.
3. **Remove the Wheel**:
- Use a socket wrench to remove the lug nuts.
- Take off the wheel to access the axle.
4. **Remove Axle Housing**:
- Disconnect any hydraulic lines or electrical connections.
- Unbolt the axle housing using the appropriate socket.
- Carefully slide the axle housing off the axle shaft.
5. **Access Planetary Gear Set**:
- Once the axle housing is removed, observe the planetary assembly.
- Use snap ring pliers to remove any retaining rings securing the planetary gear set.
6. **Remove Planetary Gear Set**:
- Use a puller tool to carefully extract the planetary gear set from the housing.
- Be cautious of any additional seals or bearings that may need to be replaced.
7. **Inspect Components**:
- Check the planetary gears for wear or damage.
- Inspect the housing for cracks or significant wear.
8. **Install New Planetary Gear Set**:
- Place the new planetary gear set into the housing.
- Ensure it is seated correctly and aligned with the housing.
9. **Reinstall Retaining Rings**:
- Use snap ring pliers to secure the retaining rings back into place.
10. **Reassemble the Axle Housing**:
- Reattach the axle housing over the planetary gear set.
- Bolt it back in place using the torque wrench to the manufacturer’s specified torque.
11. **Reattach Wheel**:
- Put the wheel back on the axle.
- Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
12. **Refill Oil**:
- Replace the drain plug and refill the transmission with the appropriate oil.
- Check the level according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
13. **Reconnect Battery**:
- Reconnect the battery terminals.
14. **Test the Tractor**:
- Start the tractor and check for any unusual noises or leaks.
- Test the functionality of the transmission and ensure smooth operation.
#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Forgetting to Relieve Hydraulic Pressure**: This can lead to accidents.
- **Misaligning Components**: Ensure all gears and components are aligned correctly during reassembly.
- **Neglecting to Replace Seals/Gaskets**: Always replace old seals and gaskets to prevent leaks.
- **Not Using Proper Torque Specifications**: Always adhere to manufacturer torque specs to avoid component failure.
By following these steps and precautions, you can successfully replace the planetary gear set on a Massey Ferguson MF135/MF148 tractor.
rteeqp73
Short version first: the ignition coil is a step‑up transformer that converts low‑voltage battery/current from the distributor/points into the high voltage needed to jump the spark‑plug gap. On an MF135 (M148) you can replace it yourself with basic hand tools and a volt/ohm meter. Below is a beginner‑friendly, detailed—component‑by‑component—explanation, diagnosis, removal, replacement, and testing procedure. Read slowly and follow safety steps.
Why this repair is needed (theory and analogy)
- What the coil does: The coil takes a relatively small current (primary circuit) and steps it up to thousands of volts (secondary circuit) to make the spark plug fire. Think of it like a bicycle gear: the small effort (low voltage/current) is multiplied into a large effort (high voltage) to do the job of jumping the spark gap.
- How the system works in simple flow:
1. Battery/charging system or magneto supplies low voltage to the ignition coil primary.
2. The contact breaker (points) inside the distributor periodically opens and closes, rapidly interrupting current in the primary winding.
3. When the primary current is suddenly interrupted the magnetic field collapses; that change induces a very high voltage in the secondary winding.
4. The high‑voltage lead from the coil goes to the center of the distributor cap and is routed to the proper spark plug via rotor and plug wires; the spark jumps at the plug gap and ignites the fuel/air mixture.
- Why coils fail: insulation breakdown from heat, moisture ingress, shorted turns in windings, corrosion on terminals, or physical damage. The coil is under heat and vibration, so the insulation degrades over years. If the coil can’t produce adequate high voltage the engine misfires, runs rough, won’t start, or runs on fewer cylinders.
Key components (every component you’ll meet on this job)
- Ignition coil: metal can, two or three terminals. Primary terminals usually labeled + and − (or + and C) and the high‑tension (HT) output is the thick insulated lead to the distributor cap.
- Primary winding: low‑voltage winding inside; carries battery voltage/current.
- Secondary winding: many more turns of fine wire; produces high voltage.
- Insulation/coil body: holds windings and is vulnerable to heat/moisture.
- Coil bracket/mounting bolts: hold coil to engine/body.
- HT lead (thick rubberized cable): from coil high‑tension tower to distributor cap center.
- Primary wires: smaller wires to + and − on coil (one often goes to ignition switch/points/coil contact, the other to ground/magneto/points).
- Distributor (cap, rotor, points, condenser): points interrupt primary current; condenser reduces arcing at the points; cap and rotor distribute the HT to plugs.
- Spark plug wires and plugs: carry the high voltage to the plugs and form the final gap where the spark occurs.
- Battery/charging system: provides the low voltage feed (verify whether your tractor is 6V or 12V; many MF135s have been converted to 12V from original 6V).
- Ground connections: poor ground can mimic coil failure.
Symptoms of a bad coil
- No spark at plugs (engine cranks but won’t fire).
- Intermittent spark; engine hesitates, misfires, runs rough.
- Weak spark visible on a spark tester (small or no blue spark).
- Coil gets very hot.
- Audible arcing or carbon trails on coil or distributor.
- Visible cracks, oil or corroded terminals on the coil.
Tools, parts & materials you’ll need
- New ignition coil (correct part for MF135 M148; match voltage [6V/12V] and terminal arrangement).
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers, pliers, socket set (metric/SAE depending), open‑end wrenches.
- Multimeter (DVM capable of ohms and volts).
- Spark tester or insulated screwdriver for a crude test (use care).
- Dielectric grease (optional, for HT terminal and plug wires).
- Contact cleaner / electrical cleaner spray.
- Wire brush or sandpaper for cleaning terminals.
- New points and condenser recommended (these often go bad with coil failure).
- Clean rag, gloves, safety glasses.
- Anti‑seize for bolts (optional).
- Service manual or wiring diagram for your tractor (highly recommended).
Safety first (do this before touching anything)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal (or battery) before removing electrical parts. If system is magneto only, still disconnect any battery and ground to prevent accidental starts.
- Work in a well‑ventilated area, engine cool.
- High voltage can give a nasty shock—don’t hold the HT lead bare while cranking.
- Keep flammable liquids away.
Basic diagnosis before replacement (don’t replace unnecessarily)
1. Verify system voltage and wiring: confirm whether your tractor is 6V or 12V and that the new coil matches.
2. Visual check: cracks, oil, corrosion on coil. Loose or corroded connections at coil primary and HT lead.
3. Spark test:
- Remove a spark plug, reconnect plug wire and ground thread to engine block with insulated pliers. Crank engine and watch for spark. If no spark, further test coil and points. Use a commercial spark tester for safer testing.
4. Check for spark at HT lead using a spark tester at the distributor if available.
5. Multimeter resistance checks (approximate ranges; consult manual for exact):
- Primary resistance: typically around 0.5 Ω to a few Ω for point‑type coils (older coils often low ohms). If open (infinite) or very high, primary is bad.
- Secondary resistance: typically a few thousand to tens of thousands of ohms (e.g., 3kΩ–15kΩ). If open, shorted, or outside the manual’s spec, coil bad.
- Note: ranges vary widely by coil; always check OEM specs first.
Step-by‑step: Removing and replacing the coil (general MF135‑style)
A: Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, set brake or use wheel chocks, remove key.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Label wires: use tape and marker to label the wires attached to coil terminals (+/−/HT) so you reconnect exactly. Take photos with your phone.
- Clean working area around distributor and coil so dirt doesn’t fall in when parts removed.
B: Remove HT lead
- Pull the HT boot off the center of the distributor cap (twist gently if stuck).
- Loosen any clamp on the HT lead near the coil.
C: Remove primary wires
- Loosen and remove small terminal nuts on coil primary. Note which goes to + (ignition switch/battery) and which to points/distributor; keep track.
D: Remove coil mounting
- Remove mounting screws/bolts that hold coil bracket. Keep bolts and any spacers. Inspect bracket for cracks.
- Remove coil assembly.
E: Inspect related components
- Inspect distributor cap, rotor, points, condenser, plug wires, and plugs. If points look pitted or condenser old, replace them while you’re in there.
- Clean distribution cap interior and contacts.
F: Bench test (optional)
- With coil off tractor, you can re‑test primary & secondary resistance with the multimeter to confirm failure before installing new coil.
G: Install new coil
- Mount the new coil in the same orientation as the old one. Tighten mounting bolts snug—do not over‑torque (small bracket bolts are usually 6–12 ft‑lb; hand‑tighten and short final snug; check manual if available).
- Reconnect primary wires exactly as labeled: + terminal to ignition switch/battery positive feed, −/C terminal to points/distributor.
- If coil has a ground tab, ensure good ground to engine chassis. Clean mating surfaces and tighten.
- Replace HT lead to the coil high‑tension tower, and seat the HT boot firmly on the distributor cap.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside HT boot to help seal and prevent flashover.
- Replace any worn components (points & condenser) while cap is off. Set points gap per the manual (use feeler gauge; typical gap for older British tractors ~0.014–0.016 in, but check manual).
H: Reconnect battery and test
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Crank engine and check for spark and for normal running.
- If no start, re‑check wiring and ground; ensure HT lead properly seated; re‑check points and condenser. Use spark tester to ensure good spark.
Setting and final checks
- Points gap: set to spec with feeler gauge when cam on the opening side. After adjustment, check dwell (degrees) with a dwell meter if available; otherwise static setting per manual.
- Timing: After replacing coil and points, check ignition timing with timing light or by hand (manual instructions for MF135). Correct timing is critical for proper running. Consult factory manual.
- Secure wires away from hot/moving parts and pinch points. Route HT lead carefully to avoid excessive bending or heat exposure.
Typical mistakes and what can go wrong
- Wrong coil voltage: using a 12V coil in a 6V system (or vice versa) will not work properly and can damage coil or other components.
- Miswired primary connections: swapping + and − can cause no spark or damage.
- Poor ground: coil needs a good ground; a bad ground can mimic a failed coil.
- Not replacing points/condenser when they’re worn: these components work with the coil and can mask coil problems.
- Over‑torquing or under‑torquing mounting bolts: can break bracket or allow vibration damage.
- Damaged HT boot or cracked cap causing flashover—spark will leak to engine block instead of across plug gap.
- Using a coil with a significantly different internal resistance than specified can change dwell/points load and lead to premature component failure.
When to replace other parts at the same time
- Points and condenser: cheap and often changed at the same time.
- HT lead: if cracked, brittle, or showing carbon tracking.
- Distributor cap and rotor: if worn or cracked or corroded.
- Spark plugs and plug wires if old.
Testing after replacement (how to be certain)
- Static spark test on all cylinders with a spark tester while cranking—check for strong blue spark.
- If engine runs poorly, use timing light to ensure timing is correct and that each cylinder fires in sequence.
- Road/run test: bring tractor up to operating temperature and run under load to confirm no misfires.
Troubleshooting quick guide
- No spark at all: check battery, main fuse, ignition switch, wiring to coil +, ground, points/condenser, primary continuity.
- Weak/intermittent spark: check HT lead and boot, cap/rotor, coil secondary resistance, condenser, points gap/wear.
- Spark only occasionally: often points or condenser; check for mechanical/vibration issues that open/close primary intermittently.
Maintenance tips
- Keep primary terminals clean and tight.
- Keep coil away from oil and direct heat; if oil is bathing the coil (leaks), fix leak.
- Store a spare coil and points/condenser as they’re inexpensive and commonly fail on older tractors.
- Seasonal tune: check points, timing, and coil as part of preventive maintenance.
Notes about exact specs and manuals (important)
- Coils vary by manufacturer and system (6V vs 12V). The resistance specs and point gap differ by model and year. Always confirm exact specifications (resistance, torque, points gap, voltage) with the MF135 service manual or parts manual for your particular year/model before final adjustments.
- If your tractor was converted from 6V to 12V, the coil must be the correct 12V unit.
Final words
- This is a routine, mechanically simple repair but requires attention to wiring, grounding, and matching the coil to your system voltage. Replace worn points/condenser while you’re there. Take photos and label wires before removal. If you follow the steps above patiently, you should be able to safely replace the coil and get the engine running smoothly again.
No extra questions—follow these steps and consult your tractor’s service manual for the exact specs and timing procedure.
rteeqp73
Why this repair is needed (theory and analogy)
- What the coil does: The coil takes a relatively small current (primary circuit) and steps it up to thousands of volts (secondary circuit) to make the spark plug fire. Think of it like a bicycle gear: the small effort (low voltage/current) is multiplied into a large effort (high voltage) to do the job of jumping the spark gap.
- How the system works in simple flow:
1. Battery/charging system or magneto supplies low voltage to the ignition coil primary.
2. The contact breaker (points) inside the distributor periodically opens and closes, rapidly interrupting current in the primary winding.
3. When the primary current is suddenly interrupted the magnetic field collapses; that change induces a very high voltage in the secondary winding.
4. The high‑voltage lead from the coil goes to the center of the distributor cap and is routed to the proper spark plug via rotor and plug wires; the spark jumps at the plug gap and ignites the fuel/air mixture.
- Why coils fail: insulation breakdown from heat, moisture ingress, shorted turns in windings, corrosion on terminals, or physical damage. The coil is under heat and vibration, so the insulation degrades over years. If the coil can’t produce adequate high voltage the engine misfires, runs rough, won’t start, or runs on fewer cylinders.
Key components (every component you’ll meet on this job)
- Ignition coil: metal can, two or three terminals. Primary terminals usually labeled + and − (or + and C) and the high‑tension (HT) output is the thick insulated lead to the distributor cap.
- Primary winding: low‑voltage winding inside; carries battery voltage/current.
- Secondary winding: many more turns of fine wire; produces high voltage.
- Insulation/coil body: holds windings and is vulnerable to heat/moisture.
- Coil bracket/mounting bolts: hold coil to engine/body.
- HT lead (thick rubberized cable): from coil high‑tension tower to distributor cap center.
- Primary wires: smaller wires to + and − on coil (one often goes to ignition switch/points/coil contact, the other to ground/magneto/points).
- Distributor (cap, rotor, points, condenser): points interrupt primary current; condenser reduces arcing at the points; cap and rotor distribute the HT to plugs.
- Spark plug wires and plugs: carry the high voltage to the plugs and form the final gap where the spark occurs.
- Battery/charging system: provides the low voltage feed (verify whether your tractor is 6V or 12V; many MF135s have been converted to 12V from original 6V).
- Ground connections: poor ground can mimic coil failure.
Symptoms of a bad coil
- No spark at plugs (engine cranks but won’t fire).
- Intermittent spark; engine hesitates, misfires, runs rough.
- Weak spark visible on a spark tester (small or no blue spark).
- Coil gets very hot.
- Audible arcing or carbon trails on coil or distributor.
- Visible cracks, oil or corroded terminals on the coil.
Tools, parts & materials you’ll need
- New ignition coil (correct part for MF135 M148; match voltage [6V/12V] and terminal arrangement).
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers, pliers, socket set (metric/SAE depending), open‑end wrenches.
- Multimeter (DVM capable of ohms and volts).
- Spark tester or insulated screwdriver for a crude test (use care).
- Dielectric grease (optional, for HT terminal and plug wires).
- Contact cleaner / electrical cleaner spray.
- Wire brush or sandpaper for cleaning terminals.
- New points and condenser recommended (these often go bad with coil failure).
- Clean rag, gloves, safety glasses.
- Anti‑seize for bolts (optional).
- Service manual or wiring diagram for your tractor (highly recommended).
Safety first (do this before touching anything)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal (or battery) before removing electrical parts. If system is magneto only, still disconnect any battery and ground to prevent accidental starts.
- Work in a well‑ventilated area, engine cool.
- High voltage can give a nasty shock—don’t hold the HT lead bare while cranking.
- Keep flammable liquids away.
Basic diagnosis before replacement (don’t replace unnecessarily)
1. Verify system voltage and wiring: confirm whether your tractor is 6V or 12V and that the new coil matches.
2. Visual check: cracks, oil, corrosion on coil. Loose or corroded connections at coil primary and HT lead.
3. Spark test:
- Remove a spark plug, reconnect plug wire and ground thread to engine block with insulated pliers. Crank engine and watch for spark. If no spark, further test coil and points. Use a commercial spark tester for safer testing.
4. Check for spark at HT lead using a spark tester at the distributor if available.
5. Multimeter resistance checks (approximate ranges; consult manual for exact):
- Primary resistance: typically around 0.5 Ω to a few Ω for point‑type coils (older coils often low ohms). If open (infinite) or very high, primary is bad.
- Secondary resistance: typically a few thousand to tens of thousands of ohms (e.g., 3kΩ–15kΩ). If open, shorted, or outside the manual’s spec, coil bad.
- Note: ranges vary widely by coil; always check OEM specs first.
Step-by‑step: Removing and replacing the coil (general MF135‑style)
A: Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, set brake or use wheel chocks, remove key.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Label wires: use tape and marker to label the wires attached to coil terminals (+/−/HT) so you reconnect exactly. Take photos with your phone.
- Clean working area around distributor and coil so dirt doesn’t fall in when parts removed.
B: Remove HT lead
- Pull the HT boot off the center of the distributor cap (twist gently if stuck).
- Loosen any clamp on the HT lead near the coil.
C: Remove primary wires
- Loosen and remove small terminal nuts on coil primary. Note which goes to + (ignition switch/battery) and which to points/distributor; keep track.
D: Remove coil mounting
- Remove mounting screws/bolts that hold coil bracket. Keep bolts and any spacers. Inspect bracket for cracks.
- Remove coil assembly.
E: Inspect related components
- Inspect distributor cap, rotor, points, condenser, plug wires, and plugs. If points look pitted or condenser old, replace them while you’re in there.
- Clean distribution cap interior and contacts.
F: Bench test (optional)
- With coil off tractor, you can re‑test primary & secondary resistance with the multimeter to confirm failure before installing new coil.
G: Install new coil
- Mount the new coil in the same orientation as the old one. Tighten mounting bolts snug—do not over‑torque (small bracket bolts are usually 6–12 ft‑lb; hand‑tighten and short final snug; check manual if available).
- Reconnect primary wires exactly as labeled: + terminal to ignition switch/battery positive feed, −/C terminal to points/distributor.
- If coil has a ground tab, ensure good ground to engine chassis. Clean mating surfaces and tighten.
- Replace HT lead to the coil high‑tension tower, and seat the HT boot firmly on the distributor cap.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside HT boot to help seal and prevent flashover.
- Replace any worn components (points & condenser) while cap is off. Set points gap per the manual (use feeler gauge; typical gap for older British tractors ~0.014–0.016 in, but check manual).
H: Reconnect battery and test
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Crank engine and check for spark and for normal running.
- If no start, re‑check wiring and ground; ensure HT lead properly seated; re‑check points and condenser. Use spark tester to ensure good spark.
Setting and final checks
- Points gap: set to spec with feeler gauge when cam on the opening side. After adjustment, check dwell (degrees) with a dwell meter if available; otherwise static setting per manual.
- Timing: After replacing coil and points, check ignition timing with timing light or by hand (manual instructions for MF135). Correct timing is critical for proper running. Consult factory manual.
- Secure wires away from hot/moving parts and pinch points. Route HT lead carefully to avoid excessive bending or heat exposure.
Typical mistakes and what can go wrong
- Wrong coil voltage: using a 12V coil in a 6V system (or vice versa) will not work properly and can damage coil or other components.
- Miswired primary connections: swapping + and − can cause no spark or damage.
- Poor ground: coil needs a good ground; a bad ground can mimic a failed coil.
- Not replacing points/condenser when they’re worn: these components work with the coil and can mask coil problems.
- Over‑torquing or under‑torquing mounting bolts: can break bracket or allow vibration damage.
- Damaged HT boot or cracked cap causing flashover—spark will leak to engine block instead of across plug gap.
- Using a coil with a significantly different internal resistance than specified can change dwell/points load and lead to premature component failure.
When to replace other parts at the same time
- Points and condenser: cheap and often changed at the same time.
- HT lead: if cracked, brittle, or showing carbon tracking.
- Distributor cap and rotor: if worn or cracked or corroded.
- Spark plugs and plug wires if old.
Testing after replacement (how to be certain)
- Static spark test on all cylinders with a spark tester while cranking—check for strong blue spark.
- If engine runs poorly, use timing light to ensure timing is correct and that each cylinder fires in sequence.
- Road/run test: bring tractor up to operating temperature and run under load to confirm no misfires.
Troubleshooting quick guide
- No spark at all: check battery, main fuse, ignition switch, wiring to coil +, ground, points/condenser, primary continuity.
- Weak/intermittent spark: check HT lead and boot, cap/rotor, coil secondary resistance, condenser, points gap/wear.
- Spark only occasionally: often points or condenser; check for mechanical/vibration issues that open/close primary intermittently.
Maintenance tips
- Keep primary terminals clean and tight.
- Keep coil away from oil and direct heat; if oil is bathing the coil (leaks), fix leak.
- Store a spare coil and points/condenser as they’re inexpensive and commonly fail on older tractors.
- Seasonal tune: check points, timing, and coil as part of preventive maintenance.
Notes about exact specs and manuals (important)
- Coils vary by manufacturer and system (6V vs 12V). The resistance specs and point gap differ by model and year. Always confirm exact specifications (resistance, torque, points gap, voltage) with the MF135 service manual or parts manual for your particular year/model before final adjustments.
- If your tractor was converted from 6V to 12V, the coil must be the correct 12V unit.
Final words
- This is a routine, mechanically simple repair but requires attention to wiring, grounding, and matching the coil to your system voltage. Replace worn points/condenser while you’re there. Take photos and label wires before removal. If you follow the steps above patiently, you should be able to safely replace the coil and get the engine running smoothly again.
No extra questions—follow these steps and consult your tractor’s service manual for the exact specs and timing procedure.
rteeqp73
- Safety first (read these before doing anything)
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, hearing protection and a respirator if grinding or welding.
- Work with the engine off, key removed, and battery negative terminal disconnected to avoid accidental starts or sparks.
- Let the exhaust fully cool before touching it — exhaust parts retain heat for a long time.
- Chock wheels and support the tractor securely on jack stands or ramps rated for the tractor’s weight — never work under an unsupported machine.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; exhaust work can release soot and fumes.
- If you will cut or weld, keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clear flammable materials.
- Tools you need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set (both metric and imperial sizes, 3/8" drive with extensions)
- Purpose: remove nuts and bolts on flanges, clamps and brackets.
- How to use: choose the correct socket size, place on ratchet, use extension for hard-to-reach bolts, pull steady and even to avoid rounding heads.
- Ratchet and breaker bar
- Purpose: apply torque to sockets; breaker bar gives extra leverage for seized bolts.
- How to use: use ratchet for general removal; use breaker bar for stubborn fasteners with controlled, steady force.
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end)
- Purpose: hold nuts or bolts when a socket can’t fit.
- How to use: use the box end for best grip on bolt heads; avoid slipping by seating fully.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil or similar)
- Purpose: loosen rusted/seized fasteners.
- How to use: spray on bolts and let soak for several hours or overnight; reapply as needed.
- Wire brush or flap wheel
- Purpose: clean rust and carbon off flange faces and fasteners.
- How to use: scrub flange mating surfaces and bolt threads before reassembly for a better seal.
- Impact driver or impact wrench (optional but very useful)
- Purpose: loosen very rusty bolts quickly.
- How to use: use conservatively to avoid breaking studs; an impact wrench delivers rapid torque pulses to free seized fasteners.
- Torque wrench
- Purpose: tighten bolts to proper specification to avoid leaks or broken studs.
- How to use: set to recommended torque (use service manual if available) and tighten in sequence to the set value.
- Exhaust clamps and replacement studs/nuts/gaskets
- Purpose: replace corroded hardware and seals for a leak-free reassembly.
- How to use: fit new gaskets and hand-tighten new studs/nuts/clamps, then torque properly.
- Pry bar
- Purpose: separate flanged parts if they are stuck together.
- How to use: apply gentle leverage at the flange seam; protect surfaces with a block of wood to avoid damage.
- Hacksaw, reciprocating saw with metal blade, or cutoff wheel (angle grinder) — only if converter is welded or rusted through
- Purpose: cut through exhaust pipe or welded sections when bolts/studs cannot be removed intact.
- How to use: cut slowly, keep sparks away from fuel/oil, wear face shield; an oscillating reciprocating saw with the right blade is safer than a cutting wheel in tight areas.
- Angle grinder with flap disc or cutting wheel (use with caution)
- Purpose: cut/separate badly corroded sections or smooth flange faces.
- How to use: hold firmly, cut in short controlled passes; wear a face shield and respirator.
- Propane torch or oxy-acetylene torch (use with high caution)
- Purpose: heat stuck studs/bolts to expand metal and free them.
- How to use: heat the bolt area evenly, then apply penetrating oil and try breaker bar; do not heat near rubber hoses, fuel lines, or flammable materials.
- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG/stick) — only if you will weld new pipe sections or attach a universal converter
- Purpose: join exhaust pipe sections permanently.
- How to use: only if you are competent in welding; welds must be gas-tight and even. If inexperienced, have a professional weld.
- Floor jack and jack stands or ramps (rated for tractor weight)
- Purpose: raise and support the tractor safely for access under the exhaust.
- How to use: use floor jack under a secure lift point, place jack stands, lower onto stands, and double-check stability.
- Wire or bungee cords
- Purpose: support heavy parts like muffler or converter while disconnecting hangers.
- How to use: loop around the part and secure to a stable frame point to hold weight.
- Gloves and rags, bucket for old gasket fragments
- Purpose: cleanup and handling hot/dirty parts.
- Extra tools you might need and why
- Impact wrench or air tools: needed if bolts are heavily corroded and hand tools won’t free them.
- Cutting tools (recip saw, grinder): required if studs/bolts are seized and must be cut; prevents stripping and saves time.
- Welding kit and filler wire: required if replacement converter is being welded into place or if pipe ends must be joined permanently.
- Replacement studs and nuts or a stud extractor set: required when flange studs break or are too corroded to reuse.
- Service manual for MF135: gives torque specs and exhaust layout; strongly recommended to ensure correct reassembly.
- Parts that may need replacing and why
- Catalytic converter assembly (OEM or appropriate replacement)
- Why: converter can be plugged, damaged, or corroded and will cause loss of power, excessive smoke, or failed emissions.
- What to buy: an MF135-specific exhaust/catalyst assembly if available, or a universal converter sized to fit the pipe diameter and mounting points. Match flange pattern and pipe diameter.
- Exhaust gasket(s) and sealing rings
- Why: old gaskets are crushed and leak; always replace to prevent exhaust leaks.
- What to buy: new flange gaskets sized to the converter/manifold flanges.
- Exhaust studs, nuts, bolts and clamps
- Why: these corrode and often break when being removed; replacing ensures a reliable reassembly.
- What to buy: high-temperature grade hardware (stainless or coated where possible).
- Exhaust pipe sections, muffler or hangers (if damaged)
- Why: rusted-through piping or broken hangers require replacement to support new converter and prevent leaks.
- Oxygen sensor (if present — many MF135s may not have one)
- Why: if damaged or if your replacement converter requires fitting an O2 sensor.
- Heat wraps or anti-seize compound
- Why: heat wrap can reduce heat soak, anti-seize on threads helps future disassembly.
- How to decide if the catalytic converter actually needs replacement
- Visual inspection: heavy rust-through holes, collapsed shell, or obvious external damage means replacement.
- Rattle test: a rattling internal substrate indicates broken internals — replace.
- Performance symptoms: significant power loss, increased smoke, or excessive backpressure usually indicate the converter is blocked or failed.
- Simple check: remove downstream pipe and look through converter (when cool); if clogged or glowing hot unevenly it’s suspect.
- If unsure and the converter is an OEM emission device, check with a mechanic or supplier — catalytic failures can sometimes be confirmed with exhaust backpressure testing.
- Step-by-step replacement procedure (high level, safe, and practical)
- Prepare the tractor: park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative terminal, let exhaust cool.
- Support the tractor: raise and support with jack stands or ramps if needed for access; ensure stability.
- Inspect and free fasteners: spray penetrating oil on all flange nuts and studs, let soak for several hours or overnight.
- Support the exhaust assembly: use wire or straps to hold muffler/converter weight so it won’t drop when disconnected.
- Remove heat shields/hangers that obstruct access: use socket/wrenches and keep parts organized for reassembly.
- Unbolt flange connections: use the correct socket or wrench; use a breaker bar or impact tool if needed. If studs break, remove what you can — you may need a stud extractor or cut the studs and use new studs.
- Cut if necessary: if bolts/studs cannot be removed or pipe is welded, cut the pipe at an accessible point with a recip saw or grinder. Cut carefully, avoiding fuel lines and other components.
- Remove old converter: lower it gently and set aside for proper disposal or scrap sale.
- Clean flange faces and mating surfaces: use a wire brush to remove corrosion and old gasket material.
- Fit new gasket and converter: align new converter and gasket; hand-start bolts or nuts to ensure threads engage.
- Install new hardware: use new studs/nuts/clamps where possible; tighten by hand first, then torque progressively to spec if known (or snug then check for leaks).
- Weld if required: if welding new sections, tack first to check alignment, then complete weld. If you cannot weld to a professional standard, use proper flange/clamp solutions.
- Reattach hangers and shields: ensure the exhaust is supported in its original position with correct hanger tension.
- Reconnect battery and test: start engine, check for exhaust leaks (feel for leaks with a gloved hand away from the outlet, or use soapy water at cold engine for leaks), listen for rattles and ensure normal running.
- Final check: after a short run to operating temperature, re-torque hardware if recommended and inspect for leaks or loose hangers.
- Tips for seized bolts and broken studs
- Soak with penetrating oil and let sit; tap the bolt/head with a hammer to help oil penetrate.
- Heat the nut/stud (with care) to expand metal and break the rust bond; cool quickly and try again.
- Use an impact tool for sudden torque pulses to free corrosion.
- If a stud breaks flush, use a left-hand twist drill bit to attempt removal or a stud extractor set.
- If removal would damage the manifold flange, consider cutting the stud and installing a new stud from the back or use a repair flange.
- Testing and troubleshooting after replacement
- Look and listen for leaks while engine is idling — leaks are obvious as hissing or soot at joints.
- Check for improved performance and reduced smoke; a stuck/blocked converter often causes power loss that should improve.
- If there is still a problem, check for exhaust backpressure issues, air intake problems, or fuel system faults — the converter isn’t always the only cause.
- Disposal and legal notes
- Catalytic converters contain valuable metals — many scrap yards accept them, but local regulations vary; keep receipts and follow local laws when selling or disposing.
- If your tractor is used on public roads, check local emissions rules about replacing or removing converters.
- Final practical advice
- If you are a beginner and hardware is badly corroded or welding/cutting is required, consider having a muffler/exhaust shop or qualified mechanic do the removal/installation — it’s safer and typically cheaper than replacing broken studs or fixing mistakes.
- Get a parts list from a Massey Ferguson parts supplier or supply the old part to match flange and pipe diameters when buying a replacement.
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- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, hearing protection and a respirator if grinding or welding.
- Work with the engine off, key removed, and battery negative terminal disconnected to avoid accidental starts or sparks.
- Let the exhaust fully cool before touching it — exhaust parts retain heat for a long time.
- Chock wheels and support the tractor securely on jack stands or ramps rated for the tractor’s weight — never work under an unsupported machine.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; exhaust work can release soot and fumes.
- If you will cut or weld, keep a fire extinguisher nearby and clear flammable materials.
- Tools you need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set (both metric and imperial sizes, 3/8" drive with extensions)
- Purpose: remove nuts and bolts on flanges, clamps and brackets.
- How to use: choose the correct socket size, place on ratchet, use extension for hard-to-reach bolts, pull steady and even to avoid rounding heads.
- Ratchet and breaker bar
- Purpose: apply torque to sockets; breaker bar gives extra leverage for seized bolts.
- How to use: use ratchet for general removal; use breaker bar for stubborn fasteners with controlled, steady force.
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end)
- Purpose: hold nuts or bolts when a socket can’t fit.
- How to use: use the box end for best grip on bolt heads; avoid slipping by seating fully.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil or similar)
- Purpose: loosen rusted/seized fasteners.
- How to use: spray on bolts and let soak for several hours or overnight; reapply as needed.
- Wire brush or flap wheel
- Purpose: clean rust and carbon off flange faces and fasteners.
- How to use: scrub flange mating surfaces and bolt threads before reassembly for a better seal.
- Impact driver or impact wrench (optional but very useful)
- Purpose: loosen very rusty bolts quickly.
- How to use: use conservatively to avoid breaking studs; an impact wrench delivers rapid torque pulses to free seized fasteners.
- Torque wrench
- Purpose: tighten bolts to proper specification to avoid leaks or broken studs.
- How to use: set to recommended torque (use service manual if available) and tighten in sequence to the set value.
- Exhaust clamps and replacement studs/nuts/gaskets
- Purpose: replace corroded hardware and seals for a leak-free reassembly.
- How to use: fit new gaskets and hand-tighten new studs/nuts/clamps, then torque properly.
- Pry bar
- Purpose: separate flanged parts if they are stuck together.
- How to use: apply gentle leverage at the flange seam; protect surfaces with a block of wood to avoid damage.
- Hacksaw, reciprocating saw with metal blade, or cutoff wheel (angle grinder) — only if converter is welded or rusted through
- Purpose: cut through exhaust pipe or welded sections when bolts/studs cannot be removed intact.
- How to use: cut slowly, keep sparks away from fuel/oil, wear face shield; an oscillating reciprocating saw with the right blade is safer than a cutting wheel in tight areas.
- Angle grinder with flap disc or cutting wheel (use with caution)
- Purpose: cut/separate badly corroded sections or smooth flange faces.
- How to use: hold firmly, cut in short controlled passes; wear a face shield and respirator.
- Propane torch or oxy-acetylene torch (use with high caution)
- Purpose: heat stuck studs/bolts to expand metal and free them.
- How to use: heat the bolt area evenly, then apply penetrating oil and try breaker bar; do not heat near rubber hoses, fuel lines, or flammable materials.
- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG/stick) — only if you will weld new pipe sections or attach a universal converter
- Purpose: join exhaust pipe sections permanently.
- How to use: only if you are competent in welding; welds must be gas-tight and even. If inexperienced, have a professional weld.
- Floor jack and jack stands or ramps (rated for tractor weight)
- Purpose: raise and support the tractor safely for access under the exhaust.
- How to use: use floor jack under a secure lift point, place jack stands, lower onto stands, and double-check stability.
- Wire or bungee cords
- Purpose: support heavy parts like muffler or converter while disconnecting hangers.
- How to use: loop around the part and secure to a stable frame point to hold weight.
- Gloves and rags, bucket for old gasket fragments
- Purpose: cleanup and handling hot/dirty parts.
- Extra tools you might need and why
- Impact wrench or air tools: needed if bolts are heavily corroded and hand tools won’t free them.
- Cutting tools (recip saw, grinder): required if studs/bolts are seized and must be cut; prevents stripping and saves time.
- Welding kit and filler wire: required if replacement converter is being welded into place or if pipe ends must be joined permanently.
- Replacement studs and nuts or a stud extractor set: required when flange studs break or are too corroded to reuse.
- Service manual for MF135: gives torque specs and exhaust layout; strongly recommended to ensure correct reassembly.
- Parts that may need replacing and why
- Catalytic converter assembly (OEM or appropriate replacement)
- Why: converter can be plugged, damaged, or corroded and will cause loss of power, excessive smoke, or failed emissions.
- What to buy: an MF135-specific exhaust/catalyst assembly if available, or a universal converter sized to fit the pipe diameter and mounting points. Match flange pattern and pipe diameter.
- Exhaust gasket(s) and sealing rings
- Why: old gaskets are crushed and leak; always replace to prevent exhaust leaks.
- What to buy: new flange gaskets sized to the converter/manifold flanges.
- Exhaust studs, nuts, bolts and clamps
- Why: these corrode and often break when being removed; replacing ensures a reliable reassembly.
- What to buy: high-temperature grade hardware (stainless or coated where possible).
- Exhaust pipe sections, muffler or hangers (if damaged)
- Why: rusted-through piping or broken hangers require replacement to support new converter and prevent leaks.
- Oxygen sensor (if present — many MF135s may not have one)
- Why: if damaged or if your replacement converter requires fitting an O2 sensor.
- Heat wraps or anti-seize compound
- Why: heat wrap can reduce heat soak, anti-seize on threads helps future disassembly.
- How to decide if the catalytic converter actually needs replacement
- Visual inspection: heavy rust-through holes, collapsed shell, or obvious external damage means replacement.
- Rattle test: a rattling internal substrate indicates broken internals — replace.
- Performance symptoms: significant power loss, increased smoke, or excessive backpressure usually indicate the converter is blocked or failed.
- Simple check: remove downstream pipe and look through converter (when cool); if clogged or glowing hot unevenly it’s suspect.
- If unsure and the converter is an OEM emission device, check with a mechanic or supplier — catalytic failures can sometimes be confirmed with exhaust backpressure testing.
- Step-by-step replacement procedure (high level, safe, and practical)
- Prepare the tractor: park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative terminal, let exhaust cool.
- Support the tractor: raise and support with jack stands or ramps if needed for access; ensure stability.
- Inspect and free fasteners: spray penetrating oil on all flange nuts and studs, let soak for several hours or overnight.
- Support the exhaust assembly: use wire or straps to hold muffler/converter weight so it won’t drop when disconnected.
- Remove heat shields/hangers that obstruct access: use socket/wrenches and keep parts organized for reassembly.
- Unbolt flange connections: use the correct socket or wrench; use a breaker bar or impact tool if needed. If studs break, remove what you can — you may need a stud extractor or cut the studs and use new studs.
- Cut if necessary: if bolts/studs cannot be removed or pipe is welded, cut the pipe at an accessible point with a recip saw or grinder. Cut carefully, avoiding fuel lines and other components.
- Remove old converter: lower it gently and set aside for proper disposal or scrap sale.
- Clean flange faces and mating surfaces: use a wire brush to remove corrosion and old gasket material.
- Fit new gasket and converter: align new converter and gasket; hand-start bolts or nuts to ensure threads engage.
- Install new hardware: use new studs/nuts/clamps where possible; tighten by hand first, then torque progressively to spec if known (or snug then check for leaks).
- Weld if required: if welding new sections, tack first to check alignment, then complete weld. If you cannot weld to a professional standard, use proper flange/clamp solutions.
- Reattach hangers and shields: ensure the exhaust is supported in its original position with correct hanger tension.
- Reconnect battery and test: start engine, check for exhaust leaks (feel for leaks with a gloved hand away from the outlet, or use soapy water at cold engine for leaks), listen for rattles and ensure normal running.
- Final check: after a short run to operating temperature, re-torque hardware if recommended and inspect for leaks or loose hangers.
- Tips for seized bolts and broken studs
- Soak with penetrating oil and let sit; tap the bolt/head with a hammer to help oil penetrate.
- Heat the nut/stud (with care) to expand metal and break the rust bond; cool quickly and try again.
- Use an impact tool for sudden torque pulses to free corrosion.
- If a stud breaks flush, use a left-hand twist drill bit to attempt removal or a stud extractor set.
- If removal would damage the manifold flange, consider cutting the stud and installing a new stud from the back or use a repair flange.
- Testing and troubleshooting after replacement
- Look and listen for leaks while engine is idling — leaks are obvious as hissing or soot at joints.
- Check for improved performance and reduced smoke; a stuck/blocked converter often causes power loss that should improve.
- If there is still a problem, check for exhaust backpressure issues, air intake problems, or fuel system faults — the converter isn’t always the only cause.
- Disposal and legal notes
- Catalytic converters contain valuable metals — many scrap yards accept them, but local regulations vary; keep receipts and follow local laws when selling or disposing.
- If your tractor is used on public roads, check local emissions rules about replacing or removing converters.
- Final practical advice
- If you are a beginner and hardware is badly corroded or welding/cutting is required, consider having a muffler/exhaust shop or qualified mechanic do the removal/installation — it’s safer and typically cheaper than replacing broken studs or fixing mistakes.
- Get a parts list from a Massey Ferguson parts supplier or supply the old part to match flange and pipe diameters when buying a replacement.
(No questions.)
rteeqp73
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