About the Massey Ferguson MF135

Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The next big selling model was the MF135, widely popular because of its reliability and power compared with other tractors at the time. This was the first model in the MF 100 series. The Massey Ferguson 135 is a popular tractor. In fact it is one of the most popular tractors for vintage and classic enthusiasts.

Massey Ferguson MF135 and MF148 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables
- Floor jack, heavy-duty jack stands (rated for tractor weight), wheel chocks
- Small hydraulic bottle jack or transmission jack (to support/raise spring)
- Socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench
- Impact wrench (optional) and penetrating oil (PB Blaster)
- Hammer, drift/punch set, cold chisel
- Angle grinder with flap disc and grinding wheel, wire brush
- MIG or stick welder (or TIG if available) and appropriate filler rods/wire; nickel rod if cast-iron repair
- C‑clamps or chain clamp, V-block or pipe roller (to match curvature), bench vise
- Cutting torch or plasma cutter (only if cutting badly damaged perch)
- Drill and bits (for removal of broken studs or holes)
- Hydraulic press (if removing/installing bushings)
- New parts: replacement spring seat/perch or steel repair plate, new U-bolts, spring plate (top & bottom), spring centre bolt, shackle bushes/pins, nuts/lock washers, anti-seize
- Safety gear: welding helmet, gloves, leather jacket, eye protection, hearing protection, respirator for grinding
- Cleaning solvent, anti-corrosion paint

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on level solid ground. Chock front wheels. Apply parking brake.
- Support the tractor frame on rated jack stands under specified lift points; never rely on jacks alone. Support axle or wheels as secondary support.
- The rear springs are under load — always support the chassis or spring with a jack/stands before removing bolts.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal before welding; remove anything flammable and drain grease from area.
- If the axle casting is suspected cast iron, do NOT weld with ordinary steel rods — consult professional or use nickel-based filler and preheat.
- Use eye/face protection for cutting/grinding; ventilate when welding/painting.

Overview of procedure
You will: unload the spring, remove U-bolts and fasteners, remove the spring, inspect the axle/spring perch, repair or replace the perch (weld or bolt-on), clean and paint, reassemble with new hardware, torque to spec, and test.

Step-by-step repair
1) Prepare and secure
- Park level, chock front wheels, shut off engine, remove key.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal (for welding safety).
- Place floor jack under axle near the wheel you’re working on and raise slightly.
- Place heavy-duty jack stands under the tractor frame (ahead of the rear axle) so the frame is supported and the rear springs are unloaded. Verify springs have no load by jacking up/down slightly and observing spring movement. Keep a second stand under axle as backup.

2) Remove wheel(s) if needed
- Removing the wheel gives better access. Remove wheel studs/nuts and set wheel aside.

3) Support the leaf spring
- Place a small hydraulic jack under the leaf spring pack (approx center area) or use a chain hoist to support the spring pack so it doesn’t drop when U-bolts and shackle bolts are removed.

4) Remove U-bolts & spring retainer
- Spray penetrating oil on U-bolt nuts, allow soak time.
- Loosen and remove U-bolt nuts with breaker bar or impact gun. Remove lower spring plate and U-bolts. Replace U-bolts; do not reuse bent/corroded ones.
- Keep note of plate orientation and spring center location.

5) Remove shackle and front fastening
- Support spring with the small jack. Remove shackle pin(s) or front mounting bolt(s) (use drift and punch if needed). Remove center bolt if necessary. For seized bolts, heat and penetrating oil or cut and replace.
- Remove the spring pack.

6) Inspect perch/spring seat
- Clean area with grinder/wire brush to remove paint and rust to fully see extent of damage.
- Determine whether spring seat is a welded-on steel perch, a cast lug, or damaged/worn. If it’s cast and cracked, do NOT attempt generic welding — either replace the casting or have a specialist weld with nickel filler rod and preheat.
- Measure and photograph for reference.

7) Decide repair method
- Minor wear/corrosion: grind back to sound metal, weld build-up with mild steel rod (MIG or 7018 stick), grind to correct contour and drill center hole for spring center pin if required.
- Missing or cracked steel perch: fabricate a replacement perch from 6–10 mm steel plate formed to match axle curvature, punch/drill center hole for center bolt, clamp in place, tack weld, check alignment, then complete weld.
- Cast-iron perch or major axle housing damage: best to either fit a bolt-on clamp/perch kit or send the axle housing to a machine/weld shop for nickel-rod repair. Bolt-on U-bolt plate kits are a safe field fix.
- If using welded repair on steel axle tube: clean to bare metal, use short stitch welds around the perimeter to avoid overheating/distortion, allow cooling between passes.

8) Preparing & welding the new perch (steel axle case)
- Shape plate to curvature with hammer or pipe roller; use V-block to hold in exact location.
- Clamp securely, check spring centerline alignment with old spring plate or by measuring opposite side.
- Tack weld in 4 spots, recheck alignment.
- Complete weld with intermittent runs (avoid long continuous bead). Use 6013/7018 rods for stick or appropriate MIG wire. Typical parameters: set amperage appropriate to plate thickness; keep bead short and let cool between passes.
- Grind welds smooth to seat spring plate flat. Drill/ream center hole to correct size so spring center bolt fits snugly.

9) Clean, paint, and protect
- Clean area, apply primer and high-temp paint or corrosion proofing. Let cool.

10) Reassembly
- Replace spring center bolt and plate. Place leaf spring on perch, position spring plate and new U-bolts. Install new U-bolts, tighten finger tight.
- Reinstall shackles and new shackle bushings/pins if required. Grease fitting if present.
- Torque U-bolts and shackle bolts evenly to factory spec (consult MF135 service manual). If spec not available, torque evenly and re-check after first few hours of operation — do not under-torque. Replace nuts if stretching observed.
- Reinstall wheel, lower stands and jack carefully. Remove support jack under spring slowly and watch for correct seating and alignment.

11) Final checks and test
- Torque all fasteners to spec. Reconnect battery.
- Road test at low speed, listen for clunks. Recheck U-bolt and shackle torque after first 10–50 miles.

How the tools are used (key points)
- Floor jack/jack stands: lift frame, not axle; stands take load so springs are unloaded.
- Small hydraulic jack under spring: supports spring while fasteners removed/installed.
- Grinder/brush: remove paint/corrosion so you can weld to clean metal; grind smoothly after welding so the spring plate seats flat.
- Welder: tack in multiple spots, use short passes, and allow cooling. For steel use MIG or 7018 stick; for cast iron use nickel rod and preheat or have a specialist do it.
- C-clamps/V-block: hold new perch accurately to curvature and location before tacking.
- Impact/breaker bar: remove stubborn nuts; penetrating oil plus heat helps break seized studs.
- Hydraulic press: remove/install worn shackle bushings; replace them if loose.

Replacement parts recommended
- New spring perch/saddle or bolt-on repair kit (if original is damaged)
- New U-bolts and nuts (replace, not reuse)
- New spring plates (top/bottom) if corroded
- New spring centre bolt (if worn)
- New shackle pins/bushes if worn or loose
- Paint/anti-corrosion coating

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the frame properly: can cause sudden drop and injury. Always use stands under frame and back-up supports.
- Welding cast iron with ordinary rod: causes poor welds and more cracks. If cast, use nickel or have pro do it.
- Poor alignment of new perch: spring will sit off center; use measuring and tacking in multiple spots to verify alignment before final welding.
- Overheating axle tube: long continuous weld beads warp tube and can damage bearings or seals. Use short passes and allow cooling.
- Reusing corroded U-bolts or stretched nuts: can fail under load. Always replace.
- Not replacing worn bushings/shackle pins: leads to premature wear and noise even after perch repair.
- Inadequate cleaning before welding: results in poor penetration/weld quality.
- Under- or over-torquing U-bolts: leads to shifting or crushed springs. Use proper torque and recheck after initial use.

When to call a pro
- Axle housing is cast iron or heavily cracked.
- You don’t have a capable welder or experience welding structural components.
- Spring perch location/geometry cannot be matched easily — requires machining.

Work time estimate
- Simple weld-build up (small repair): 2–4 hours.
- Full perch replacement or fabrication: 4–8 hours.
- If axle off or shop weld/heat treatment needed: 1–2 days.

Follow-up maintenance
- Recheck torque after 50 miles.
- Inspect welds and U-bolts after 100 miles.
- Keep perches painted/greased to prevent recurrence.

That’s the full practical method — support the tractor correctly, decide whether a welded repair or bolt-on replacement is required (cast iron requires specialist attention), use appropriate welding technique, replace hardware, and torque to spec.
rteeqp73

Valve adjustment on a Massey Ferguson MF135 or M148 tractor is crucial for optimal engine performance. The valve adjustment process ensures that the engine's intake and exhaust valves open and close at the correct times, maintaining proper engine timing and improving efficiency.

### Theory Behind Valve Adjustment

1. **Engine Timing**: The engine operates on a cycle where the intake and exhaust valves need to open and close precisely to allow air-fuel mixture intake and exhaust gas expulsion. If the valves are not adjusted correctly, they may not seal properly, leading to loss of compression, poor engine performance, and increased emissions.

2. **Clearance**: The gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem (valve clearance) must be set appropriately. If the clearance is too tight, the valves may not fully close, causing a loss of power and potential damage from overheating. If too loose, the valves may not open fully, resulting in poor performance and inefficient combustion.

3. **Temperature Effects**: Engine components expand and contract with temperature changes. Valve clearances must be adjusted when the engine is cold to account for thermal expansion during operation.

### Steps to Adjust Valves

1. **Preparation**:
- Ensure the engine is cold to accurately measure valve clearances.
- Remove any necessary covers to access the valve train.

2. **Identify TDC**:
- Rotate the engine to find the Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke for the cylinder you are adjusting. This is when both the intake and exhaust valves for that cylinder are closed.

3. **Measure Valve Clearance**:
- Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem. The specifications for the MF135 or M148 will be found in the service manual.

4. **Adjustment**:
- If clearance is not within specifications, loosen the lock nut on the rocker arm and turn the adjusting screw to achieve the correct gap. Tighten the lock nut without disturbing the adjustment.

5. **Repeat**:
- Move to the next cylinder and repeat the process until all valves are adjusted.

6. **Reassemble**:
- Replace any covers or components removed during the adjustment.

### How the Repair Fixes the Fault

- **Restores Engine Efficiency**: Proper valve clearance ensures that the engine breathes correctly, maximizing power output and fuel efficiency.
- **Prevents Damage**: Correctly adjusted valves help prevent overheating and potential engine damage due to improper sealing or timing issues.
- **Enhances Performance**: With valves operating correctly, the tractor will run smoother, with improved throttle response and reduced emissions.

In summary, valve adjustment is a critical maintenance task that affects engine timing, efficiency, and performance. Properly adjusting the valves restores ideal operating conditions, ensuring the tractor runs at its best.
rteeqp73

Tools & supplies
- Metric spanner/ratchet set (8–19 mm typical), deep sockets for studs
- Flare-nut / line wrenches (10–19 mm sizes) for hydraulic/banjo fittings
- Torque wrench (capable of 5–100 Nm; use factory torque where specified)
- Screwdrivers, pliers, hose clamp pliers
- Small prybar or gasket scraper
- Oil drain pan(s) and absorbent pads
- Clean rags, parts tray for fasteners
- Rubber gloves, eye protection
- Organic solvent or diesel for external cleaning, soft-bristled brush, low‑pressure water source
- Compressed air (low pressure) or hand pump for pressure/leak testing (optional)
- New seals/washers (banjo crush washers or O‑rings), gaskets, new hose sections if required
- Replacement oil cooler core or assembly if damaged
- New engine/transmission/hydraulic oil and filter(s) as required by service (refer to manual for spec)
- Thread sealant / Loctite where applicable (manufacturer recommended)
- Jack and axle stands or ramps (if you need access under tractor)
- Container and labels for used oil (environmentally safe disposal)

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, remove ignition key. Block wheels.
- Allow engine and fluids to cool fully. Hot oil/metal will cause burns.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal if you will be working near electrical components.
- Relieve any system pressure: run engine to operating temp then shut off and wait; drain system slowly.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep fire extinguisher handy when working with fuels/solvents.
- Catch all drained oil in approved containers and dispose of according to local regs.

What to expect / when to replace
- Clean/repair if fins and passages are clogged but core is intact.
- Replace cooler if corroded, cracked, internally leaking (oil in coolant / coolant in oil), or if leak cannot be stopped by replacing seals.
- Replace crush washers and any hose sections older than ~6–10 years or showing cracks.

Step-by-step: remove, inspect, clean or replace, reinstall

1) Identify which cooler you’re servicing
- MF135 (M148) can have an engine oil cooler and/or transmission/hydraulic oil cooler depending on build. Confirm which circuit is affected. The cooler looks like a small radiator/heat exchanger with two oil lines attached.

2) Prepare and drain fluid
- Place drain pan under tractor beneath the cooler lines or drain plug.
- If servicing transmission/hydraulic cooler: remove gearbox/hydraulic drain plug and drain fluid into pan. If engine oil cooler: drain engine oil.
- Loosen filler caps to allow faster flow/venting.

3) Label and cap lines before disconnecting
- Mark each oil line with tape so you reconnect correctly.
- Using flare-nut/line wrenches, carefully loosen the fittings. Work slowly to avoid rounding nuts.
- Catch residual oil in pan. Immediately cap or plug open fittings to minimize contamination and spillage.

4) Remove cooler from mounting
- Remove any fan shroud, bracket or belt clearance as required.
- Remove mounting bolts/nuts holding the cooler/bracket to engine/frame. Keep hardware in a parts tray.
- Carefully withdraw cooler assembly—take care not to bend fins or pull on lines.

5) Inspect and test cooler
- Visual: check fins, core for corrosion, cracks, or oil seepage between core seams.
- Internal: pressure-test by applying low-pressure air (3–5 psi) while submerging in water and watching for bubbles. For oil-to-water cross-leaks, look for coolant/oil mixing.
- If any through-leak or significant internal corrosion is present, replace the cooler.

6a) Cleaning (if reusing)
- Remove external grime with solvent/diesel and a soft brush. Avoid high-pressure washing that can damage fins.
- Flush oil passages by running low-pressure water backwards (opposite of normal flow) until clean run-off. Use a mild solvent if needed, then flush with water and blow out with low-pressure air.
- Do not use high-pressure air directly on core fins; use gentle bursts to avoid collapse.
- Replace all O-rings, crush washers, and any soft seals—do not reuse crush washers.

6b) Replace cooler (if required)
- Buy the correct OEM or high-quality aftermarket cooler for MF135 M148. Verify part numbers by VIN/model or consult parts manual.
- Transfer any brackets or fittings from old cooler if required, or use new if supplied.
- Replace any corroded or brittle hoses with new oil-rated hose. Use correct hose clamps or crimped fittings.

7) Reassembly
- Install new crush washers/O-rings on fittings. Fit the cooler into its bracket and tighten mounting bolts finger-tight first.
- Reconnect oil lines with flare-nut wrench. Tighten to snug; then torque to manufacturer spec if available. Avoid overtightening banjo/flare fittings—crush washers seal, not extreme torque.
- Reinstall any fan shroud/belt clearance items.

8) Refill and bleed/prime
- Refill the drained circuit with correct oil type and volume per manual (engine oil or transmission/hydraulic oil).
- For hydraulic/transmission circuits, prime any filters or pump circuits per manual: some tractors require moving selector levers or spinning starter briefly to circulate oil (do not start engine extendedly if low oil).
- For engine oil cooler work: install a new oil filter, fill engine to correct level, crank engine briefly to build oil pressure and check for leaks.

9) Check for leaks & re-torque
- Run engine at idle and monitor cooler and fittings for leaks. If hydraulic/transmission system, operate selector/levers to circulate oil and check for leaks under pressure.
- After reaching normal operating temp, shut down and re-check oil levels; top up as needed.
- After a short run and cool down, re-torque fittings/mount bolts if necessary to factory values.

10) Final steps
- Clean any spilled oil, properly dispose of used oil and crushed washers.
- Record work done, parts replaced, and fluid quantities.

How the specific tools are used (quick notes)
- Flare-nut / line wrenches: grip the flats on the fitting. Use to loosen/tighten hydraulic/oil line fittings without rounding.
- Torque wrench: set to specified Nm and tighten studs/nuts to value. If spec unknown, use firm snug + small mark after service, but avoid overtightening.
- Pressure tester: attach to one end, pressurize with low-pressure air and soap-water to find leaks (look for bubble stream).
- Soft brush/solvent: remove grime; do not use a wire brush on fins or core.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing crush washers/O-rings: they deform and often leak — always replace.
- Damaging fittings: use the correct line wrench; don’t use open-end wrench on flare nut repeatedly.
- Over-tightening banjo/flare fittings: strips threads or crushes fittings and causes leaks. Tighten to spec only.
- Contaminating systems: cap open lines immediately; keep parts and area clean.
- Not priming pump/air trapped: air in hydraulic lines can cause poor operation—bleed/prime per manual.
- Using wrong oil: top-ups with incorrect viscosity or type can damage gearbox/hydraulics.
- Damaging fins/core during cleaning: avoid high-pressure washers and wire brushes.
- Forgetting to check/replace hoses: new cooler with old brittle hoses invites failure.

Replacement parts typically required
- Crush washers (banjo fittings) or O-rings on fittings (always replace).
- New oil hoses if cracked/soft.
- New oil filter(s) and fresh oil for the circuit drained.
- Possibly replacement cooler core/complete cooler assembly if corroded or internally leaking.

Notes on torque/specs & parts
- Use the MF135 M148 service manual for exact torque values and part numbers. If you don’t have it to hand, contact a Massey Ferguson dealer with your serial number to confirm part numbers.

Done checklist before returning tractor to service
- No leaks at cooler/fittings after warm-up.
- Fluid at proper level and type.
- Hoses/clamps secure; fan clearance correct.
- Tools and debris cleared from area.
- Proper disposal of used oil and materials.

Follow this sequence and avoid the pitfalls listed.
rteeqp73