About the Massey Ferguson MF135

Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The next big selling model was the MF135, widely popular because of its reliability and power compared with other tractors at the time. This was the first model in the MF 100 series. The Massey Ferguson 135 is a popular tractor. In fact it is one of the most popular tractors for vintage and classic enthusiasts.

Massey Ferguson MF135 and MF148 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual

- **Tools Needed:**
- **Wrenches and Sockets:**
- Use a set of combination wrenches and socket wrenches (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive) to loosen and remove bolts. Socket wrenches provide better torque and reach for tight spots.
- **Screwdrivers:**
- A flathead and Phillips screwdriver may be needed for removing any covers or clamps that obstruct access to the pressure plate.
- **Pliers:**
- Used for gripping and pulling cables or hoses if they are in the way, particularly if they are secured with clips.
- **Torque Wrench:**
- Required for tightening bolts to manufacturer specifications. Ensures that bolts are not over-tightened, which could strip threads or lead to breakage.
- **Jack and Jack Stands:**
- Used to safely lift the tractor if you need to access the underside. Ensure the tractor is stable before working underneath.
- **Brake Cleaner or Degreaser:**
- For cleaning the area around the pressure plate. Prevents contamination of new parts with dirt or grease.

- **Preparation:**
- **Disconnect the Battery:**
- Always disconnect the negative terminal to prevent any electrical shorts or accidental starts.
- **Lift the Tractor:**
- Use the jack to lift the tractor and place jack stands for safety. Ensure that the surface is flat and stable.

- **Accessing the Pressure Plate:**
- **Remove the Clutch Housing Cover:**
- Use your socket wrench to remove the bolts securing the cover. Keep track of the bolts for reassembly.
- **Inspect Attached Components:**
- Check for any cables or hoses connected to the clutch assembly. Carefully disconnect them using pliers or screwdrivers as needed.

- **Removing the Old Pressure Plate:**
- **Loosen the Pressure Plate Bolts:**
- Use your socket wrench to remove the bolts securing the pressure plate. Take note of the order and position for reassembly.
- **Remove the Pressure Plate:**
- Gently pull the pressure plate away from the flywheel. Inspect the flywheel for cracks or excessive wear.

- **Inspect for Replacement Parts:**
- **Check the Clutch Disc:**
- If the clutch disc is worn or damaged, it will need to be replaced as well. Signs include deep grooves or burning.
- **Inspect the Release Bearing:**
- Ensure the release bearing is not worn. If it makes noise or feels rough, it should also be replaced.

- **Installing the New Pressure Plate:**
- **Align the New Pressure Plate:**
- Position the new pressure plate onto the flywheel, aligning it with the dowel pins.
- **Secure the Pressure Plate:**
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to the manufacturer’s specified torque settings.

- **Reassemble Components:**
- **Reattach Clutch Housing Cover:**
- Secure the cover back in place with the bolts you removed earlier. Use a wrench to ensure a snug fit.
- **Reconnect Cables and Hoses:**
- Reattach any cables or hoses you had to disconnect. Ensure they are secured properly.

- **Final Checks:**
- **Reconnect the Battery:**
- Reattach the negative terminal and ensure it is tight.
- **Lower the Tractor:**
- Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the tractor back to the ground.

- **Testing:**
- **Start the Tractor:**
- Turn on the ignition and ensure everything operates smoothly. Check for abnormal sounds indicating issues.

- **Replacement Parts Needed:**
- **Pressure Plate:**
- Essential if the old one is worn or damaged.
- **Clutch Disc:**
- Replace if it shows signs of wear.
- **Release Bearing:**
- Necessary if it’s noisy or rough to ensure smooth operation.

This guide provides a detailed overview of tools and steps to replace the pressure plate on a Massey Ferguson MF135 M148 tractor, ensuring a smooth and safe process.
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Valve adjustment on a Massey Ferguson MF135 or M148 tractor is crucial for optimal engine performance. The valve adjustment process ensures that the engine's intake and exhaust valves open and close at the correct times, maintaining proper engine timing and improving efficiency.

### Theory Behind Valve Adjustment

1. **Engine Timing**: The engine operates on a cycle where the intake and exhaust valves need to open and close precisely to allow air-fuel mixture intake and exhaust gas expulsion. If the valves are not adjusted correctly, they may not seal properly, leading to loss of compression, poor engine performance, and increased emissions.

2. **Clearance**: The gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem (valve clearance) must be set appropriately. If the clearance is too tight, the valves may not fully close, causing a loss of power and potential damage from overheating. If too loose, the valves may not open fully, resulting in poor performance and inefficient combustion.

3. **Temperature Effects**: Engine components expand and contract with temperature changes. Valve clearances must be adjusted when the engine is cold to account for thermal expansion during operation.

### Steps to Adjust Valves

1. **Preparation**:
- Ensure the engine is cold to accurately measure valve clearances.
- Remove any necessary covers to access the valve train.

2. **Identify TDC**:
- Rotate the engine to find the Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke for the cylinder you are adjusting. This is when both the intake and exhaust valves for that cylinder are closed.

3. **Measure Valve Clearance**:
- Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem. The specifications for the MF135 or M148 will be found in the service manual.

4. **Adjustment**:
- If clearance is not within specifications, loosen the lock nut on the rocker arm and turn the adjusting screw to achieve the correct gap. Tighten the lock nut without disturbing the adjustment.

5. **Repeat**:
- Move to the next cylinder and repeat the process until all valves are adjusted.

6. **Reassemble**:
- Replace any covers or components removed during the adjustment.

### How the Repair Fixes the Fault

- **Restores Engine Efficiency**: Proper valve clearance ensures that the engine breathes correctly, maximizing power output and fuel efficiency.
- **Prevents Damage**: Correctly adjusted valves help prevent overheating and potential engine damage due to improper sealing or timing issues.
- **Enhances Performance**: With valves operating correctly, the tractor will run smoother, with improved throttle response and reduced emissions.

In summary, valve adjustment is a critical maintenance task that affects engine timing, efficiency, and performance. Properly adjusting the valves restores ideal operating conditions, ensuring the tractor runs at its best.
rteeqp73

Tools & supplies
- Metric spanner/ratchet set (8–19 mm typical), deep sockets for studs
- Flare-nut / line wrenches (10–19 mm sizes) for hydraulic/banjo fittings
- Torque wrench (capable of 5–100 Nm; use factory torque where specified)
- Screwdrivers, pliers, hose clamp pliers
- Small prybar or gasket scraper
- Oil drain pan(s) and absorbent pads
- Clean rags, parts tray for fasteners
- Rubber gloves, eye protection
- Organic solvent or diesel for external cleaning, soft-bristled brush, low‑pressure water source
- Compressed air (low pressure) or hand pump for pressure/leak testing (optional)
- New seals/washers (banjo crush washers or O‑rings), gaskets, new hose sections if required
- Replacement oil cooler core or assembly if damaged
- New engine/transmission/hydraulic oil and filter(s) as required by service (refer to manual for spec)
- Thread sealant / Loctite where applicable (manufacturer recommended)
- Jack and axle stands or ramps (if you need access under tractor)
- Container and labels for used oil (environmentally safe disposal)

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, remove ignition key. Block wheels.
- Allow engine and fluids to cool fully. Hot oil/metal will cause burns.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal if you will be working near electrical components.
- Relieve any system pressure: run engine to operating temp then shut off and wait; drain system slowly.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep fire extinguisher handy when working with fuels/solvents.
- Catch all drained oil in approved containers and dispose of according to local regs.

What to expect / when to replace
- Clean/repair if fins and passages are clogged but core is intact.
- Replace cooler if corroded, cracked, internally leaking (oil in coolant / coolant in oil), or if leak cannot be stopped by replacing seals.
- Replace crush washers and any hose sections older than ~6–10 years or showing cracks.

Step-by-step: remove, inspect, clean or replace, reinstall

1) Identify which cooler you’re servicing
- MF135 (M148) can have an engine oil cooler and/or transmission/hydraulic oil cooler depending on build. Confirm which circuit is affected. The cooler looks like a small radiator/heat exchanger with two oil lines attached.

2) Prepare and drain fluid
- Place drain pan under tractor beneath the cooler lines or drain plug.
- If servicing transmission/hydraulic cooler: remove gearbox/hydraulic drain plug and drain fluid into pan. If engine oil cooler: drain engine oil.
- Loosen filler caps to allow faster flow/venting.

3) Label and cap lines before disconnecting
- Mark each oil line with tape so you reconnect correctly.
- Using flare-nut/line wrenches, carefully loosen the fittings. Work slowly to avoid rounding nuts.
- Catch residual oil in pan. Immediately cap or plug open fittings to minimize contamination and spillage.

4) Remove cooler from mounting
- Remove any fan shroud, bracket or belt clearance as required.
- Remove mounting bolts/nuts holding the cooler/bracket to engine/frame. Keep hardware in a parts tray.
- Carefully withdraw cooler assembly—take care not to bend fins or pull on lines.

5) Inspect and test cooler
- Visual: check fins, core for corrosion, cracks, or oil seepage between core seams.
- Internal: pressure-test by applying low-pressure air (3–5 psi) while submerging in water and watching for bubbles. For oil-to-water cross-leaks, look for coolant/oil mixing.
- If any through-leak or significant internal corrosion is present, replace the cooler.

6a) Cleaning (if reusing)
- Remove external grime with solvent/diesel and a soft brush. Avoid high-pressure washing that can damage fins.
- Flush oil passages by running low-pressure water backwards (opposite of normal flow) until clean run-off. Use a mild solvent if needed, then flush with water and blow out with low-pressure air.
- Do not use high-pressure air directly on core fins; use gentle bursts to avoid collapse.
- Replace all O-rings, crush washers, and any soft seals—do not reuse crush washers.

6b) Replace cooler (if required)
- Buy the correct OEM or high-quality aftermarket cooler for MF135 M148. Verify part numbers by VIN/model or consult parts manual.
- Transfer any brackets or fittings from old cooler if required, or use new if supplied.
- Replace any corroded or brittle hoses with new oil-rated hose. Use correct hose clamps or crimped fittings.

7) Reassembly
- Install new crush washers/O-rings on fittings. Fit the cooler into its bracket and tighten mounting bolts finger-tight first.
- Reconnect oil lines with flare-nut wrench. Tighten to snug; then torque to manufacturer spec if available. Avoid overtightening banjo/flare fittings—crush washers seal, not extreme torque.
- Reinstall any fan shroud/belt clearance items.

8) Refill and bleed/prime
- Refill the drained circuit with correct oil type and volume per manual (engine oil or transmission/hydraulic oil).
- For hydraulic/transmission circuits, prime any filters or pump circuits per manual: some tractors require moving selector levers or spinning starter briefly to circulate oil (do not start engine extendedly if low oil).
- For engine oil cooler work: install a new oil filter, fill engine to correct level, crank engine briefly to build oil pressure and check for leaks.

9) Check for leaks & re-torque
- Run engine at idle and monitor cooler and fittings for leaks. If hydraulic/transmission system, operate selector/levers to circulate oil and check for leaks under pressure.
- After reaching normal operating temp, shut down and re-check oil levels; top up as needed.
- After a short run and cool down, re-torque fittings/mount bolts if necessary to factory values.

10) Final steps
- Clean any spilled oil, properly dispose of used oil and crushed washers.
- Record work done, parts replaced, and fluid quantities.

How the specific tools are used (quick notes)
- Flare-nut / line wrenches: grip the flats on the fitting. Use to loosen/tighten hydraulic/oil line fittings without rounding.
- Torque wrench: set to specified Nm and tighten studs/nuts to value. If spec unknown, use firm snug + small mark after service, but avoid overtightening.
- Pressure tester: attach to one end, pressurize with low-pressure air and soap-water to find leaks (look for bubble stream).
- Soft brush/solvent: remove grime; do not use a wire brush on fins or core.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing crush washers/O-rings: they deform and often leak — always replace.
- Damaging fittings: use the correct line wrench; don’t use open-end wrench on flare nut repeatedly.
- Over-tightening banjo/flare fittings: strips threads or crushes fittings and causes leaks. Tighten to spec only.
- Contaminating systems: cap open lines immediately; keep parts and area clean.
- Not priming pump/air trapped: air in hydraulic lines can cause poor operation—bleed/prime per manual.
- Using wrong oil: top-ups with incorrect viscosity or type can damage gearbox/hydraulics.
- Damaging fins/core during cleaning: avoid high-pressure washers and wire brushes.
- Forgetting to check/replace hoses: new cooler with old brittle hoses invites failure.

Replacement parts typically required
- Crush washers (banjo fittings) or O-rings on fittings (always replace).
- New oil hoses if cracked/soft.
- New oil filter(s) and fresh oil for the circuit drained.
- Possibly replacement cooler core/complete cooler assembly if corroded or internally leaking.

Notes on torque/specs & parts
- Use the MF135 M148 service manual for exact torque values and part numbers. If you don’t have it to hand, contact a Massey Ferguson dealer with your serial number to confirm part numbers.

Done checklist before returning tractor to service
- No leaks at cooler/fittings after warm-up.
- Fluid at proper level and type.
- Hoses/clamps secure; fan clearance correct.
- Tools and debris cleared from area.
- Proper disposal of used oil and materials.

Follow this sequence and avoid the pitfalls listed.
rteeqp73