Tools & supplies
- Engine hoist or engine support bar or strong chain + overhead crane (recommended). Alternatively: heavy-duty hydraulic floor jack + wide wood block/steel plate to spread load.
- Jack stands (2) and wheel chocks.
- Floor jack (2) or transmission jack (optional).
- Socket set (metric & imperial), deep sockets, 1/2" drive breaker bar.
- Combination wrenches, adjustable wrench.
- Torque wrench (range covering 10–150 ft·lb).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist).
- Hammer, cold chisel or drift, pry bar.
- Wire brush and shop rags.
- New engine mount(s) (rubber bushings, metal sleeves, mounting plates) specific to MF35.
- Replacement bolts/studs/nuts/washers (grade 8 or equivalent), anti-seize, medium-strength threadlocker (Loctite 243).
- Safety glasses, gloves.
- Hydraulic bottle jack pads/wood block or steel plate to protect sump.
- Small torch (propane) — optional for freeing stubborn studs (use with caution).

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on a level, solid surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Disconnect battery negative. Cap/clamp fuel lines if moving engine significantly.
- Never work under an engine supported only by a jack — use engine hoist or secure engine support + jack stands.
- Spread jack load on oil sump with a wide hardwood block or steel plate to avoid denting sump or oil pan.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have fire extinguisher ready if using torch.
- If studs are rusted, heat/penetrating oil only after ensuring no fuel vapor or flammable liquids are present.

Preparation
1. Park tractor, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
2. Disconnect battery negative.
3. Remove bonnet/top panels as needed for access to mounts and lifting points.
4. Identify all engine mount locations (MF35 commonly has three main mounts: two side mounts and one front lower mount — confirm on your serial/model). Obtain correct replacement mounts and hardware before starting.

Step-by-step removal & replacement
General approach: support engine so it cannot move; remove mount bolts; remove old mount; fit new mount; slowly lower/support engine into new mount; torque bolts to spec.

A. Support the engine
1. Position engine hoist or support bar over tractor. Attach chain to engine lifting point (use cylinder head lifting eye or designated lifting bracket). If no hoist, place hydraulic floor jack under the sump with a wide hardwood block/steel plate between jack saddle and sump to distribute load.
2. Raise hoist/jack until full engine weight is slightly supported. Do NOT lift engine off transmission completely — only take weight so the mounts are unloaded but the engine cannot shift.
3. Place jack stands under chassis/frame as secondary supports (not under the jack). Ensure tractor is stable.

B. Remove old mount(s)
4. Spray penetrating oil on all mount bolts, studs, and nuts; let soak 10–15 minutes.
5. For each mount: hold bracket with wrench and use breaker bar or impact wrench to remove nuts and bolts. If studs are seized, use penetrating oil + gentle heating with torch (keep away from fuel lines) or use a left-hand extractor. Use an impact wrench where safe — it avoids rounding-off nuts.
6. When bolts are removed, pry the mount out with pry bar or drift. Old rubber mounts often separate in pieces; remove all metal sleeves and debris. Use wire brush to clean mounting faces, threads and bracket bores.

Tool use detail:
- Breaking seized nuts: use long breaker bar for leverage; hit breaker bar with a hammer sharp tap if needed (use care). An impact wrench reduces risk of rounding.
- Removing seized studs: use two nuts jammed together on stud and back off; if stud spins in casting, heat around base then try again; extract broken stud with left-hand drill bit followed by extractor.

C. Install new mount(s)
7. Clean mating surfaces thoroughly. Inspect mounting brackets and frame holes for cracks or elongation. Repair or replace brackets if damaged.
8. Apply anti-seize to new bolt threads or a light coating of Loctite 243 on threads per mount kit instructions (Loctite on threads if you want medium strength; anti-seize if corrosion a concern). DO NOT apply both.
9. Position new mount into place. Insert new sleeve/bushing and loosely start bolts/nuts by hand. If studs are provided for the mount, install studs with lock washers or new nuts as required.
10. With engine still slightly supported (mounts not under full load), snug all mount fasteners by hand, then progressively tighten each to bring mount into contact. Make sure engine is seated squarely, do not force the engine into a misaligned position.

D. Final torquing & checks
11. Lower engine support slowly until mounts carry full engine weight. Ensure no unusual preload or sideways deflection on rubber.
12. Torque mount bolts to manufacturer spec. If spec not available, tighten to firm feel and to a value consistent with bolt grade/size (example guidance only: 1/2" bolts typically 75–100 ft·lb; use actual spec when possible). Tighten in a sequence to avoid binding: gradually increase torque on each mount bolt/nut.
13. Reinstall any components removed for access (air cleaner, hoses, panels). Reconnect battery.
14. Start engine and observe for leaks, unusual noises or excessive vibration. With engine at idle, check mount area for rubbing, shifting, or misalignment.
15. Test drive/operate tractor under light load; recheck mount torque after first few hours of operation.

Replacement parts required
- New engine mounts (rubber bushings and metal sleeves specific to MF35). Replace all mounts at once for balanced support.
- New bolts/studs/nuts/washers — strongly recommended; old hardware often corroded. Use correct grade (e.g., grade 8 or metric equivalent).
- Threadlocker or anti-seize as required.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting engine properly: can drop or shift; always use hoist/support + jack stands.
- Using a small jack saddle on sump: dents oil pan causing leaks. Use wide block/plate to spread load or use lifting eyes/hoist.
- Re-using corroded studs/bolts: leads to breakage during tightening — replace hardware.
- Overtightening rubber mounts: compressing rubber excessively reduces isolation and causes failure. Torque gradually; follow spec.
- Misalignment when lowering engine: results in driveline vibration and premature mount failure. Ensure engine is square before final torquing.
- Failing to inspect brackets/frame: cracked or elongated holes will cause new mount failure. Repair metalwork first.
- Not cleaning threads: grit causes false torque; clean and chase threads before installing new bolts.

Notes on difficult removals
- Severely rusted studs: heat at base, use penetrating oil, use dedicated stud extractor or drill/HeliCoil and re-tap if needed.
- If the mount plate is seized to frame: use penetrating oil, gentle hammering/drifting, and pry points; protect painted surfaces.

Final inspection
- After first day of operation, re-torque mount bolts and inspect for movement or fresh corrosion.
- Replace any mount showing cracking or severe compression.

Done.
rteeqp73

Safety first: wear eye protection, gloves, block the flywheel, disconnect battery, and relieve any stored energy. Work with a valve spring compressor or securely support the valve when removing retainers — compressed springs can cause injury.

Ordered procedure with theory (MF35 pushrod OHV engine — rocker-cover/top-end access):

1) Preparation and diagnosis (theory)
- Symptom/why: Weak or broken valve springs cause valve float, reduced compression, misfire, rough running, loss of power, backfiring and burned valves. Confirm symptoms and inspect for noisy valve gear or visible broken spring.
- Get the MF35 workshop manual for valve clearance and torque specs, and new springs/retainers/keepers of correct spec.

2) Access the valve gear
- Remove rocker cover and any obstructions (air cleaner linkages, fuel lines) to expose the rocker assembly and pushrods.
- Theory: You must remove components that prevent access to the top of the valves and springs.

3) Set engine to a safe position
- Rotate the engine to TDC on the compression stroke of the cylinder you’ll work on first, or place the piston at mid-stroke to prevent valves dropping into the cylinder if you remove springs and keepers.
- Theory: At TDC on compression, both valves are closed and the cam lobe for that cylinder is on its base circle, making spring removal safer and easier.

4) Remove rocker assembly or individual rocker (as needed)
- Loosen and remove the rocker shaft/clamps or individual rocker arms to free the pushrod and expose the spring retainer.
- Theory: On MF35-type pushrod engines the rockers and pushrods obstruct direct access to the valve spring retainers; removing them gives straight-line access for a compressor and prevents damage to rockers/pushrods.

5) Remove pushrod and mark orientation
- Pull out each pushrod and keep them in order; mark them so they return to their original locations.
- Theory: Pushrods are paired to lifters and wear patterns match; swapping can introduce noise and uneven wear.

6) Inspect components before disturbing springs
- Check valve stems, retainers, collets (keepers), spring condition, and tappet faces. Note carbon build-up, pitting, cracks, broken coils, or sagged springs.
- Theory: Springs with reduced free length, broken coils, or rusted retainers are mechanical faults that reduce spring seat pressure or allow slippage.

7) Use a valve spring compressor
- Fit an appropriate compressor (top-side compressor for remove/fit through the rocker area). Compress the spring until the keepers clear the retainer groove. Remove the keepers, then the retainer and spring.
- Theory: Compressor relieves spring load so keepers can be removed without the valve dropping suddenly. Proper tool ensures safe controlled removal.

8) Inspect valve and guide condition
- With spring off, slowly depress the valve and check for guide wear (rocking) and valve-seat condition. Look for bent valve stems, scored stems, or poor seating.
- Theory: Weak springs can allow valves to float and bounce, leading to seat damage and burned edges; replacing springs may not fix badly damaged seats/valves — these must be repaired.

9) Measure old spring(s)
- Measure free length and compare to new part spec; if you have a spring tester, measure seat and open pressures at specified lift. Replace springs that are out of spec or inconsistent between cylinders.
- Theory: Replacement is based on loss of spring tension (sag) or asymmetric springs causing uneven valve control.

10) Fit new spring, retainer and keepers
- Place the seat (if separate), the spring, and retainer. Compress with the valve spring compressor, drop the keepers into the retainer groove, and carefully release the compressor to seat the keepers.
- Theory: New spring restores correct closing force and dynamic control across the cam profile; correctly seated keepers retain the spring under dynamic loads.

11) Reassemble pushrod and rockers
- Refit pushrods in original order and reinstall the rocker shaft or individual rockers, lightly tightening to hold but allowing adjustment.
- Theory: Correct reassembly preserves original wear patterns; re-torquing to spec avoids rocker movement or shaft distortion.

12) Set valve clearances
- Rotate the engine to the appropriate cam position (usually base circle for the valve being adjusted) and set tappet/rocker clearances to the factory cold spec.
- Theory: Correct clearance ensures valves open/close at the intended cam timing and provides a thermal expansion allowance; too tight gives burned valves, too loose gives noise and lost lift.

13) Torque and final assembly
- Torque rocker shaft bolts, valve cover, and any removed components to spec. Reconnect fuel/air/electrical lines removed earlier.
- Theory: Proper torque keeps the valve train geometry stable under load; leaks or loose parts cause misalignment and wear.

14) Run-in and test
- Start engine, listen for abnormal valve noise, check for smoking, misfire, and oil leaks. Recheck clearances after a short run and again after the engine reaches operating temperature and has cooled.
- Theory: New springs may seat and settle; rechecking ensures clearances remain within spec and that dynamic behavior is correct.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise theory)
- Valve springs provide closing force and control valve motion against the cam and inertia. If springs are weak/sagged/broken they cannot keep the valve seated at high rpm or under load, causing valve float (valve not following cam), loss of compression, misfires, overheating of valve faces, and potential valve-to-piston contact.
- Replacing springs restores the specified seat and open pressures and spring rate. That returns correct valve closing speeds and contact with the cam/lifter, eliminating float, restoring compression and combustion timing, preventing burned seats and unintended valve motion — hence resolving the symptoms.

Quick inspection/acceptance checks after repair
- Measure valve clearances to spec, ensure consistent compression across cylinders (compression test), smooth idle and power delivery, and absence of valve clatter or unusual noises.

End notes (brief)
- Use correct MF35-specified parts and clearances. If valves/seats or guides are badly damaged, spring replacement alone won’t fully restore performance — head work or valve refacing/seat replacement will be required.
rteeqp73

Certainly! Here’s a breakdown of the theory behind fuel pump replacement on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor, along with the steps involved, and an explanation of how the repair addresses the fault.

### Theory of Fuel Pump Functionality

1. **Role of the Fuel Pump**: The fuel pump is critical in supplying fuel from the tank to the engine. It creates the necessary pressure to ensure a consistent flow of fuel for combustion.

2. **Common Failures**: Fuel pumps can fail due to wear, corrosion, or clogging. Symptoms include engine stalling, difficulty starting, or a lack of power due to insufficient fuel delivery.

3. **Repair Purpose**: Replacing a faulty fuel pump restores proper fuel flow and pressure, ensuring the engine receives the right amount of fuel for optimal performance.

### Fuel Pump Replacement Steps

1. **Preparation**:
- **Tools and Parts**: Gather necessary tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.) and a new fuel pump compatible with MF35.
- **Safety Measures**: Disconnect the battery to prevent sparks and ensure safety.

2. **Locate the Fuel Pump**:
- The fuel pump is typically mounted on the engine block or near the fuel tank. Familiarize yourself with the fuel system layout.

3. **Drain Fuel**:
- If necessary, drain the fuel tank to prevent spillage and ensure a clean work environment.

4. **Disconnect Fuel Lines**:
- Carefully detach the fuel lines from the old pump. Use a container to catch any residual fuel. Note the orientation and connections for reassembly.

5. **Remove Old Fuel Pump**:
- Unscrew and remove the mounting bolts holding the old fuel pump in place. Take the pump out and inspect the gasket and mounting surface for debris.

6. **Install New Fuel Pump**:
- Position the new fuel pump in place, ensuring the gasket is intact and properly seated. Secure it with the mounting bolts.

7. **Reconnect Fuel Lines**:
- Reattach the fuel lines to the new pump in the same orientation as noted earlier. Ensure they are tight to prevent leaks.

8. **Reconnect Battery**:
- Reconnect the battery terminals.

9. **Test the System**:
- Turn the key to the "on" position to prime the fuel system without starting the engine. Check for leaks around the connections.
- Start the engine and observe its performance. Ensure it runs smoothly and responds well to throttle input.

### How the Repair Fixes the Fault

Replacing the fuel pump resolves issues caused by inadequate fuel delivery, such as stalling or difficulty starting. A new pump restores the necessary pressure and flow rate, allowing the engine to operate efficiently. This repair eliminates symptoms of fuel starvation, ensuring the engine has a reliable fuel supply for combustion.

By understanding these principles, you can appreciate how this repair directly impacts the functionality and reliability of the Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor.
rteeqp73