- **Tools Required:**
- **Tape Measure:** Used to measure the distance between the front tires for alignment. Accurate measurements are critical for proper alignment.
- **Wrench Set:** Necessary for loosening and tightening the bolts on the tie rods and steering components. A standard or metric set may be needed depending on the tractor's specifications.
- **Level:** To check the level of the tractor and ensure that the alignment process is performed on a flat surface.
- **Alignment Gauge (optional):** While not mandatory, this tool can provide more precise measurements for toe-in and toe-out adjustments.
- **Jack and Jack Stands:** To lift the front of the tractor, providing access to the steering components if needed.

- **Preparation:**
- Ensure the tractor is on a flat, level surface. This is crucial for accurate measurements.
- Check tire pressure; all tires should be inflated to the recommended pressure for accurate alignment.
- Inspect tires for uneven wear, which may indicate misalignment or other issues needing attention.

- **Measuring Toe-In:**
- **Measure Tire Width:** Use the tape measure to measure the distance between the front edges of the front tires. Record this measurement.
- **Measure Rear Width:** Move to the back edges of the tires and measure the distance again. This distance should be slightly less than the front measurement for proper toe-in (typically around 1/8 inch).
- **Adjust if Necessary:** If the rear measurement is wider than the front, adjustments are needed.

- **Adjusting Toe-In:**
- **Loosen Tie Rod Lock Nuts:** Use the wrench to loosen the nuts on the tie rods, which connect the steering linkage to the wheels.
- **Adjust Tie Rods:** To increase toe-in, turn the tie rod ends inward; to decrease toe-in, turn them outward. Make small adjustments and re-measure until the desired toe-in is achieved.
- **Tighten Lock Nuts:** Once the correct toe-in is set, re-tighten the lock nuts securely to hold the adjustment.

- **Check for Worn Parts:**
- Inspect tie rods, ball joints, and other steering components for wear or damage. If any parts are worn or damaged, they should be replaced to ensure safe and effective alignment.
- Common replacement parts may include tie rod ends, ball joints, or steering arms. These parts can wear out over time and affect alignment.

- **Finishing Up:**
- After adjustments, recheck all measurements to confirm proper alignment.
- Take the tractor for a short test drive to feel for any steering issues or vibrations.
- Recheck tire wear after some use to ensure that the alignment has been successfully corrected.

- **Additional Notes:**
- Regularly check alignment, especially if the tractor has hit obstacles or if tires are replaced.
- Maintaining proper alignment helps extend tire life and ensures better handling and performance of the tractor.
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Quick summary first: the transmission (gearbox + final drives + PTO) on an MF35 holds oil that lubricates gears and bearings, cools, and (on many tractors) bathes the final-drive brakes and PTO. A flush replaces contaminated, degraded oil and suspended metal/wear particles so gears and bearings stay healthy. Below are the components, why they matter, what can go wrong, and a step‑by‑step flush method suitable for a beginner mechanic.

Important safety first
- Work on a level surface, engine off and cool. Chock wheels, engage parking brake. Use jack stands if you raise the tractor. Wear gloves, eye protection, and have a good drain pan.
- Hot oil causes burns; allow to cool if tractor was run hard. Dispose of used oil legally.

What the system is and how it works (plain-language)
- Engine/clutch housing: the clutch (on MF35 the clutch is a separate assembly) transfers engine torque into the gearbox. The gearbox receives that torque and steps the speed/torque to the wheels and PTO. The clutch housing is usually separate from the gearbox and normally does not contain gear oil.
- Gearbox (main transmission case): contains shafts, gears, syncros (if fitted), bearings and the PTO drive. Oil in here lubricates the gear teeth and bearings and carries heat away.
- Final drives / axle housings (left and right): contain reduction gears that multiply torque to the wheels; often include oil-immersed brakes. Oil here lubricates hypoid gears, bearings and (if wet) brake plates.
- PTO housing: often integrated into the gearbox and uses the same oil for lubrication.
- Fill/level/check plug: a plug on the side of the gearbox that shows correct oil level — oil should be at the bottom edge of this hole when the tractor is level.
- Drain plug(s): one or more plugs at the bottom of the gearbox and each final drive for draining old oil. They often use crush washers or gaskets.
- Breathers: small vents on housings to avoid pressure build-up and keep contaminants out.
- Screens/filters (if equipped): some transmissions have mesh screens or inline filters that trap debris. Clean or replace them.
Analogy: think of the gearbox like a bicycle’s chain-and-cog system, but enclosed in oil. That oil is like the chain lubricant plus coolant; if it gets burnt, dirty, or full of metal shavings, the “bike” grinds and wears out faster.

Why a flush is needed (theory)
- Oil breaks down with heat and time. Additives deplete. Contaminants accumulate (metal particles from wear, dirt ingression, condensation/water).
- Contaminants act like sandpaper on gear teeth and bearings, increasing wear. Water causes corrosion and poor lubrication. Old oil changes viscosity and film strength and may no longer protect surfaces.
- A flush (replacement of oil and removal of debris) restores proper lubrication, removes abrasive particles and helps detect abnormal wear (you’ll see metal in the pan or on a magnetic drain plug).

What can go wrong if neglected
- Accelerated gear and bearing wear, noisy operation, gear teeth pitting.
- Final-drive or PTO failure.
- If brakes are oil-immersed: contaminated or wrong oil can make brakes grab or slip.
- Blocked screens or pump damage (if hydraulic systems share oil).
- Overfilling or underfilling causes overheating, seal blowouts, or poor lubrication.

Things that can go wrong while flushing (so you avoid them)
- Using the wrong oil type/additives can ruin brakes or bearings. Use the manufacturer-recommended gear oil (check your MF35 manual). Older tractors typically take SAE 80W/90 (GL-4) or SAE 90 mineral gear oil — avoid modern additives that change brake friction characteristics unless manual allows them.
- Driving with drain plugs loose, cross‑threading or over‑torquing plugs (strip threads). Replace crush washers and use correct torque or snugness.
- Dislodging sludge that then clogs screens or small oil passages — clean or inspect screens before finishing.
- Splashing oil onto hot surfaces, creating smoke/fire hazard.
- Not supporting tractor safely and getting crushed.

Tools & consumables
- Drain pan(s) large enough for gearbox + each final drive.
- Socket set/wrenches, breaker bar.
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Funnel and clean rags.
- Magnetic pickup tool (helps collect metal bits).
- Fresh recommended gear oil (enough for gearbox + final drives — consult manual; fill to bottom of fill hole).
- New crush washers or gaskets for drain plugs.
- Hand-operated fluid transfer/suction pump (optional but makes flushing easier).
- Replacement screen/filter elements if fitted.
- Gloves, safety glasses.
- Jack and jack stands if you need clearance.
- Container for used oil; supply for legal disposal.

Preparation
1. Park level and chock wheels. Engage parking brake.
2. Warm the tractor oil slightly by running engine 5–10 minutes — warm oil drains easier. Don’t work on piping-hot metal; let it cool a bit.
3. Put out the drain pan under the gearbox drain plug and final drive drains (check both sides).

Basic drain-and-refill (beginner method)
This method is safest for beginners and still effective:
1. Remove fill/check plug first (on the side of the gearbox) so air can enter and oil flows out freely.
2. Place drain pan under the gearbox drain plug. Remove the gearbox drain plug and let oil drain into pan.
3. If final drives have separate drains, remove their plugs and drain those too.
4. While oil drains, inspect the magnetic area on the plug and the bottom of pan for metal flakes. Use magnetic pickup to remove large particles.
5. Replace drain plugs with new crush washers and tighten snugly. Don’t over‑torque.
6. If gearbox has a screen or filter, remove and clean/replace now. Reinstall.
7. Refill gearbox via the fill hole using a funnel until oil reaches the bottom edge of the fill/check hole. Repeat for each final drive if they have separate fill points.
8. Replace the fill/check plug.
9. Start the tractor and slowly cycle through gears (with the tractor stationary) and operate the PTO and lift so oil circulates.
10. Shut off, let oil settle 5 minutes, re-check level at fill/check hole and top off if needed. Check for leaks.

Double-drain (better cleaning without special tools)
- Drain old oil as above, refill with a partial amount (say 30–50% of capacity) of fresh oil, run the tractor to circulate (shift through gears), then drain again. This dilutes and removes more of the old contaminants without solvents.

Pump-flush (best thorough flush if you have a pump)
- Use a hand fluid transfer pump to suck out as much old oil as possible through the fill or drain opening. Then add fresh oil and either pump fresh oil in while letting old oil exit elsewhere, or run the tractor and pump out. This is faster and removes more old oil without using solvent.

Cleaning screens/filters
- Remove screens, wipe clean and inspect for metal fragments. If a screen is badly contaminated, clean it thoroughly with solvent (if compatible with seals) or replace.

Final checks and test
- After refilling and cycling, check for leaks at plugs and seals.
- Re-check oil level when oil is warm and settled; top up to bottom of fill/check hole.
- Test drive slowly; listen for unusual noises and observe brake behavior.
- After a short run, re-check level again and look for leaks.

How to identify problems from what you find
- Metallic sludge or lots of metal flakes: abnormal wear; prepare for inspection of gears/bearings.
- Water or milky oil: contamination; check seals and breather; water accelerates corrosion.
- Dark, burnt-smelling oil: overdue change / oil breakdown.
- Large metal chunks: stop; do not operate until inspected.

Oil selection (short guidance)
- Use the oil type the MF35 manual recommends. For many classic tractors that use the same oil for gearbox and final drives (and oil-immersed brakes), a straight mineral gear oil (SAE 80W or SAE 90, GL-4) is typical. Avoid oils with heavy friction modifiers that can make wet brakes slip or grab unpredictably. If unsure, consult the manual or a trusted MF35 parts source.

Disposal
- Put used oil in a sealed container and take it to an authorized recycling/collection point. Do not dump it.

Common beginner mistakes to avoid (bullet list)
- Not opening the fill/check plug before draining (this impedes draining).
- Forgetting to replace crush washer or using the wrong washer size.
- Overfilling (causes pressure, leaks) or underfilling (poor lubrication).
- Using the wrong oil or oil with incompatible additives.
- Ignoring a clogged screen — flushing alone won’t help if the screen is blocked.

If you discover heavy wear or lots of metal:
- Save the oil in a clear container: it’s evidence and helps a mechanic see particle size.
- Consider removing the gearbox cover or having a professional inspect gears/bearings. Metal flakes indicate internal wear that a flush won’t fix.

Quick checklist (do this order)
- Level, chock, brake, warm oil.
- Remove fill/check plug.
- Drain gearbox + final drive oil into pan(s).
- Inspect drain plug(s) and pan for metal, clean screen/filter.
- Replace drain plugs with new crush washers, snug to spec.
- Refill to bottom of fill/check hole with correct oil.
- Cycle gears and PTO, run briefly.
- Re-check level and leaks; top off if needed.
- Dispose of oil properly.

That’s a complete beginner-friendly overview and step-by-step method to flush the MF35 transmission. Follow the manual for exact fill quantities, recommended oil type, and torque specs for plugs. If you find heavy metal in the oil or persistent leaks, stop and get professional inspection — flushing won’t fix worn gears or bearings.
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- **Safety Precautions**
- **Gloves and Safety Glasses**: Wear gloves to protect your hands and safety glasses to shield your eyes from debris.
- **Work Area**: Ensure you are working in a well-ventilated area and that the tractor is parked on a flat, stable surface.

- **Basic Tools Required**
- **Socket Set**: A socket set will help you remove and tighten bolts and nuts. Look for a set that includes both metric and imperial sizes, as tractor bolts can vary.
- **How to Use**: Select the appropriate socket for the bolt size, attach it to a ratchet handle, and turn counterclockwise to loosen or clockwise to tighten.

- **Wrench Set**: A combination of open-end and box-end wrenches will help reach bolts in tight spaces.
- **How to Use**: Choose the correct size wrench, place it around the bolt head, and turn to loosen or tighten. Open-end wrenches are better for quick access, while box-end wrenches provide a better grip.

- **Pry Bar**: Useful for separating parts that may be stuck together, such as exhaust components.
- **How to Use**: Insert the pry bar between the components and gently apply pressure to separate them.

- **Hammer**: A rubber or dead-blow hammer can help free stubborn parts without damaging them.
- **How to Use**: Gently tap on parts to loosen them or to fit components together.

- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- **How to Use**: Set the desired torque setting, attach a socket, and turn until you hear a click indicating the proper torque has been reached.

- **Extra Tools (if needed)**
- **Cutting Tool (Angle Grinder or Hacksaw)**: If the exhaust pipe is severely rusted or damaged, cutting may be necessary.
- **How to Use**: For an angle grinder, use a cutting disc to slice through the metal. For a hacksaw, manually saw through the pipe, applying even pressure.

- **Inspecting the Exhaust System**
- **Visual Inspection**: Check for rust, holes, or damage in the exhaust pipe and muffler. Look for any loose connections or missing clamps.
- **Listen for Leaks**: Start the tractor and listen for hissing sounds, which indicate exhaust leaks.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Exhaust Gasket**: If the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe is damaged, it must be replaced to prevent leaks.
- **Why Replace**: A damaged gasket can lead to exhaust leaks, reduced engine performance, and increased noise.
- **Replacement Part**: Purchase a suitable exhaust gasket for the MF35 model.

- **Exhaust Pipe and Muffler**: If the pipe or muffler is severely rusted or damaged, replacement is necessary.
- **Why Replace**: A damaged exhaust can affect engine performance and produce excessive noise.
- **Replacement Parts**: Look for OEM or aftermarket exhaust pipes and mufflers compatible with the MF35.

- **Steps for Exhaust Repair**
- **Disconnect Battery**: Always disconnect the battery before working on the tractor to avoid electric shock.
- **Remove Old Exhaust Components**: Use the socket set or wrench to remove bolts securing the exhaust system. Use a pry bar if needed.
- **Clean Surfaces**: Before installing new parts, clean any rust or debris from the mounting surfaces to ensure a good seal.
- **Install New Components**: Place the new exhaust gasket, then attach the exhaust pipe and muffler. Tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications using a torque wrench.
- **Reconnect Battery**: Once everything is securely in place, reconnect the battery.
- **Test**: Start the tractor and check for leaks or unusual noises to ensure the repair was successful.

By following these detailed steps and using the right tools, you can successfully repair the exhaust on your Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor.
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