- **Tools Required:**
- **Tape Measure:** Used to measure the distance between the front tires for alignment. Accurate measurements are critical for proper alignment.
- **Wrench Set:** Necessary for loosening and tightening the bolts on the tie rods and steering components. A standard or metric set may be needed depending on the tractor's specifications.
- **Level:** To check the level of the tractor and ensure that the alignment process is performed on a flat surface.
- **Alignment Gauge (optional):** While not mandatory, this tool can provide more precise measurements for toe-in and toe-out adjustments.
- **Jack and Jack Stands:** To lift the front of the tractor, providing access to the steering components if needed.

- **Preparation:**
- Ensure the tractor is on a flat, level surface. This is crucial for accurate measurements.
- Check tire pressure; all tires should be inflated to the recommended pressure for accurate alignment.
- Inspect tires for uneven wear, which may indicate misalignment or other issues needing attention.

- **Measuring Toe-In:**
- **Measure Tire Width:** Use the tape measure to measure the distance between the front edges of the front tires. Record this measurement.
- **Measure Rear Width:** Move to the back edges of the tires and measure the distance again. This distance should be slightly less than the front measurement for proper toe-in (typically around 1/8 inch).
- **Adjust if Necessary:** If the rear measurement is wider than the front, adjustments are needed.

- **Adjusting Toe-In:**
- **Loosen Tie Rod Lock Nuts:** Use the wrench to loosen the nuts on the tie rods, which connect the steering linkage to the wheels.
- **Adjust Tie Rods:** To increase toe-in, turn the tie rod ends inward; to decrease toe-in, turn them outward. Make small adjustments and re-measure until the desired toe-in is achieved.
- **Tighten Lock Nuts:** Once the correct toe-in is set, re-tighten the lock nuts securely to hold the adjustment.

- **Check for Worn Parts:**
- Inspect tie rods, ball joints, and other steering components for wear or damage. If any parts are worn or damaged, they should be replaced to ensure safe and effective alignment.
- Common replacement parts may include tie rod ends, ball joints, or steering arms. These parts can wear out over time and affect alignment.

- **Finishing Up:**
- After adjustments, recheck all measurements to confirm proper alignment.
- Take the tractor for a short test drive to feel for any steering issues or vibrations.
- Recheck tire wear after some use to ensure that the alignment has been successfully corrected.

- **Additional Notes:**
- Regularly check alignment, especially if the tractor has hit obstacles or if tires are replaced.
- Maintaining proper alignment helps extend tire life and ensures better handling and performance of the tractor.
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- What the output shaft seal is and why you’d replace it
- The output shaft seal (axle/final-drive seal) keeps gear oil inside the final drive/differential and prevents dirt/water getting in where the axle or output/PTO shaft exits the housing.
- Replace it if you see oil leaking at the hub/shaft, wet grease/oil on the wheel/brake area, low final-drive oil level, or visible seal damage. Left unaddressed, leaks cause low oil, overheating, bearing failure, and more costly repairs.

- Safety first
- Park on a flat, level surface, engage parking brake, put tractor in gear (or park range), and block front wheels with chocks.
- Disconnect the battery negative cable to avoid accidental starter engagement.
- Use a solid jack (floor jack) and rated jack stands; never work under a tractor supported only by a jack.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and use a drip pan for oil.

- Tools you’ll need (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (common sizes 3/8" or 1/2" drive)
- Use to remove wheel nuts, axle retaining bolts, and cover bolts. Choose the socket that fits snug; use breaker bar for stuck nuts and ratchet for normal removal.
- Combination wrench set (open and boxed ends)
- Use where a socket can’t reach. Boxed end gives best torque; open end for quick turning.
- Torque wrench (range covering wheel nut torque)
- Use to tighten wheel nuts and any cover/retaining bolts to correct torque to avoid over/under tightening. Set to specified value and apply smooth steady force.
- Floor jack and rated jack stands
- Use jack under recommended lift points to raise the rear of tractor. Place jack stands on solid frame points to support weight; lower jack gently onto stands.
- Wheel chocks
- Place in front of front wheels to prevent rolling.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Use to remove small fasteners and pry off covers carefully.
- Seal puller (or small pry bar and pick)
- Designed to hook behind the inner lip of the seal to pull it out. If you don’t have a seal puller, use a small flat screwdriver or pick to work the seal out, taking care not to gouge the housing.
- Seal driver or appropriately sized socket/pipe (slightly smaller diameter than seal outer diameter)
- Use to install the new seal squarely by tapping it into the bore. A driver matching the outer diameter of the seal prevents distortion. If you don’t have one, use a heavy socket whose face contacts only the metal outer edge.
- Punches and soft drift (bronze or hardwood drift)
- Use to drive the seal driver and to tap components back into place. Use a soft drift to avoid damaging parts.
- Hammer (ball-peen)
- Light taps to drive seal driver or remove stuck items. Use controlled strikes.
- Gear puller or hub puller (medium-sized, 2- or 3-jaw)
- May be required to remove the brake drum or hub assembly if it’s stuck on the shaft. The puller grips the hub and pulls it straight off the splined shaft.
- Slide hammer (optional, for very stuck hubs)
- Used when hub is corroded; delivers pulsed pulling force. Only required if hub won’t come off with puller.
- Bearing puller / bearing separator (only if bearing replacement is needed)
- If the bearing behind the seal is worn, you’ll need these to remove the bearing without damage.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner and rags
- Clean the work area, remove oil and dirt before installing new seal.
- Gasket scraper (if replacing cover gasket)
- Remove old gasket material from mating surfaces.
- Small container for used oil and drain pan
- Catch fluid drained from axle/final drive.
- New gear oil (SAE 80W-90 or manufacturer spec)
- To refill final drive after seal replacement. Use capacity specified in manual.
- Replacement seal (correct size / OEM part)
- Get the seal using your tractor’s serial number or measure the old seal’s inner and outer diameter and thickness. If you can’t get OEM part number, bring old seal to parts supplier.
- Replacement gasket, crush washers, or O-rings (if applicable)
- Replace any gaskets/mating seals removed to avoid leaks.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40)
- Soak rusted parts (hub, nuts) before removal.

- Why extra tools may be required
- Hub/axle assemblies often corrode; a puller or slide hammer might be needed to separate tight-fitting parts.
- If the bearing is damaged or has play, bearing puller and press tools (or paying a shop) are required to remove/replace the bearing correctly. Bearings pressed on/off require special tools to avoid damage.
- Seal drivers and proper sockets prevent deforming the new seal; pounding an unmatching tool can ruin the seal lip leading to immediate failure.

- Parts you may need to replace (and why)
- Output/axle seal (definitely replace)
- The leaking component. Replace with exact size/OEM recommended part.
- Bearing(s) (if noisy, rough, or has play)
- If the bearing surface where the seal rides is scored or the bearing shows play/noise, replace bearing to prevent future seal failure.
- Gasket or cover O-ring (if you remove a cover plate)
- Old gaskets often crush or harden and will leak when reassembled.
- Hub studs/nuts (if damaged or corroded)
- Replace if threads are damaged to ensure proper tightening.
- Final drive gear oil
- Oil is lost during the job; refill to manufacturer capacity and type.
- Hub grease (if applicable to your hub design)
- Replace contaminated grease if you disassemble hub components.

- Replacement part selection guidance
- Use OEM Massey Ferguson parts when possible for correct fit. Give the dealer your tractor’s serial number and model (MF35) to ensure correct seal selection.
- If buying aftermarket, match inner diameter (ID), outer diameter (OD), and thickness. Typical sizes vary; measure the old seal or the bore precisely.
- If uncertain, bring the old seal or take photos and measurements to local parts supplier.

- Step-by-step procedure (general for MF35 rear axle/outboard seal)
- Prepare workspace: chock front wheels, disconnect battery, put tractor in gear, and park on level surface.
- Raise and support rear of tractor on jack stands under solid frame points. Remove wheel chocks afterward.
- Remove rear wheel
- Loosen wheel nuts before lifting, then remove them and the wheel once the axle is off the ground. Keep nuts and washers organized.
- Remove brake drum/hub assembly
- Remove any dust caps, cotter pins, castle nuts, and bearing retaining nuts.
- Pull the hub/drum straight off. Use penetrating oil on stuck parts, then use a hub puller if necessary. Use a slide hammer only if other methods fail.
- Drain oil if necessary and inspect
- Place a drain pan under the final drive and remove the drain/level plug (or carefully tilt hub) to catch oil. Keep it sealed for proper disposal.
- Remove the old seal
- Work around the seal lip and use a seal puller or small flat screwdriver to pry the seal out evenly without gouging the housing. Take care not to score the bore.
- Inspect the bore and shaft
- Clean the seal bore with parts cleaner. Look for scoring, rust, or pitting on the shaft where the seal rides. If damaged, you may need to replace the shaft, sleeve, or bearings.
- Replace bearing if required
- If the bearing is rough or loose, remove it with a bearing puller. Press in the new bearing squarely using a press or appropriate driver. If you don’t have a press, a machine shop can fit the bearing for you.
- Install the new seal
- Lightly coat the inner lip of the new seal with clean gear oil. Position seal square to the bore and use a seal driver or socket to tap it evenly until it’s flush or at specified depth. Avoid deforming the seal.
- Reassemble hub/drum
- Clean and repack bearings with fresh grease if applicable. Reinstall inner bearing, spacer, outer bearing, and retaining nut. Adjust end play per TF manual procedure (wheel bearing preload if required).
- Reinstall castle nut and secure with cotter pin or retainer as original.
- Refill final drive oil
- Refit drain/level plugs and refill with correct grade and amount of gear oil to the level specified in the manual.
- Reinstall wheel
- Put wheel back on, hand-start nuts then torque to manufacturer specification with torque wrench. Lower tractor and torque again if needed.
- Test for leaks and road-test
- Start with checking for leaks at rest. Move tractor slowly, re-check wheel nut torque and final drive for proper operation. Re-inspect after a short run.

- How to use key tools safely and properly
- Seal puller: hook the claw behind the metal casing of the old seal and pull steadily. Avoid levering against thin cast sections that could break.
- Seal driver/socket: center on the seal and tap evenly. Ensure the driver contacts only the seal’s outer metal casing—not the rubber lip.
- Hub/gear puller: align center bolt with shaft axis and tighten evenly so the jaws pull straight. Do not cock the puller or pry at an angle.
- Floor jack and jack stands: lift at manufacturer-recommended lift points, put stands on a flat solid surface, and lower slowly so frame sits on stands. Test stability before working underneath.
- Torque wrench: set to specified value, pull the wrench handle smoothly until it clicks (or reads target). Do not use torque wrench as a breaker bar.

- Troubleshooting and red flags
- If the hub won’t come off after penetrating oil and a puller, a shop with a heated hub press or slide hammer may be required.
- If you find deep scoring on the shaft where the seal rides, don’t install a new seal alone; the new seal will fail quickly. Replace or sleeve the shaft or replace the hub/sleeve as needed.
- If bearings are rough or have excessive play, replace them now. Replacing only the seal while leaving bad bearings will just cause another leak.

- Final checks and maintenance
- Re-check final drive oil level after first few hours of operation.
- Inspect the replaced seal after a few hours of running and again after a week to ensure no leaks.
- Keep record of parts and oil used for future maintenance.

- When to get professional help
- If the hub is stuck and won’t come off with basic pullers.
- If bearings require pressing and you have no press or experience.
- If shafts or housings are scored or damaged and need machining or part replacement.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Dispose of old oil and contaminated rags at a proper collection facility.
- Clean tools and store parts for future reference.

- Quick checklist of parts to buy before starting
- Correct output/axle seal for MF35 (OEM or measured replacement)
- Final drive gear oil (manufacturer spec; usually SAE 80W-90 GL-4 unless manual specifies otherwise)
- Any gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins, or crush washers removed
- Wheel hub grease and/bearing set if you suspect bearing wear

- Final note
- Follow manufacturer service manual procedures and torque specs where available. If unsure about part fitment (seal size, bearing type), bring the old parts to a dealer or parts house for exact matches.
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- **Safety Precautions**
- **Gloves and Safety Glasses**: Wear gloves to protect your hands and safety glasses to shield your eyes from debris.
- **Work Area**: Ensure you are working in a well-ventilated area and that the tractor is parked on a flat, stable surface.

- **Basic Tools Required**
- **Socket Set**: A socket set will help you remove and tighten bolts and nuts. Look for a set that includes both metric and imperial sizes, as tractor bolts can vary.
- **How to Use**: Select the appropriate socket for the bolt size, attach it to a ratchet handle, and turn counterclockwise to loosen or clockwise to tighten.

- **Wrench Set**: A combination of open-end and box-end wrenches will help reach bolts in tight spaces.
- **How to Use**: Choose the correct size wrench, place it around the bolt head, and turn to loosen or tighten. Open-end wrenches are better for quick access, while box-end wrenches provide a better grip.

- **Pry Bar**: Useful for separating parts that may be stuck together, such as exhaust components.
- **How to Use**: Insert the pry bar between the components and gently apply pressure to separate them.

- **Hammer**: A rubber or dead-blow hammer can help free stubborn parts without damaging them.
- **How to Use**: Gently tap on parts to loosen them or to fit components together.

- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- **How to Use**: Set the desired torque setting, attach a socket, and turn until you hear a click indicating the proper torque has been reached.

- **Extra Tools (if needed)**
- **Cutting Tool (Angle Grinder or Hacksaw)**: If the exhaust pipe is severely rusted or damaged, cutting may be necessary.
- **How to Use**: For an angle grinder, use a cutting disc to slice through the metal. For a hacksaw, manually saw through the pipe, applying even pressure.

- **Inspecting the Exhaust System**
- **Visual Inspection**: Check for rust, holes, or damage in the exhaust pipe and muffler. Look for any loose connections or missing clamps.
- **Listen for Leaks**: Start the tractor and listen for hissing sounds, which indicate exhaust leaks.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Exhaust Gasket**: If the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe is damaged, it must be replaced to prevent leaks.
- **Why Replace**: A damaged gasket can lead to exhaust leaks, reduced engine performance, and increased noise.
- **Replacement Part**: Purchase a suitable exhaust gasket for the MF35 model.

- **Exhaust Pipe and Muffler**: If the pipe or muffler is severely rusted or damaged, replacement is necessary.
- **Why Replace**: A damaged exhaust can affect engine performance and produce excessive noise.
- **Replacement Parts**: Look for OEM or aftermarket exhaust pipes and mufflers compatible with the MF35.

- **Steps for Exhaust Repair**
- **Disconnect Battery**: Always disconnect the battery before working on the tractor to avoid electric shock.
- **Remove Old Exhaust Components**: Use the socket set or wrench to remove bolts securing the exhaust system. Use a pry bar if needed.
- **Clean Surfaces**: Before installing new parts, clean any rust or debris from the mounting surfaces to ensure a good seal.
- **Install New Components**: Place the new exhaust gasket, then attach the exhaust pipe and muffler. Tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications using a torque wrench.
- **Reconnect Battery**: Once everything is securely in place, reconnect the battery.
- **Test**: Start the tractor and check for leaks or unusual noises to ensure the repair was successful.

By following these detailed steps and using the right tools, you can successfully repair the exhaust on your Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor.
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