Repairing the manual transmission on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor involves understanding the basic mechanics of the transmission system and identifying the specific fault. Below is a theoretical overview of common issues and how the repair addresses them.

### Common Faults in MF35 Manual Transmission:

1. **Gear Slipping**: This may occur due to worn gears, insufficient lubrication, or a faulty clutch.

2. **Difficulty Engaging Gears**: This can be caused by a worn or damaged clutch, improper linkage adjustment, or low transmission fluid levels.

3. **Noisy Operation**: This could indicate worn bearings or gears, or insufficient lubrication.

### Repair Process:

#### 1. Diagnosis
- **Observation**: Identify symptoms such as gear slippage or difficulty in shifting.
- **Fluid Check**: Inspect the transmission fluid level and condition. Low or contaminated fluid can lead to inadequate lubrication.

#### 2. Disassembly
- **Remove the Transmission Cover**: Access the internal components by removing bolts and the cover.
- **Inspect Internal Components**: Check gears, synchronizers, and bearings for wear or damage.

#### 3. Repair or Replace Components
- **Gears**: If worn, replace with new gears. This prevents slipping and ensures proper meshing.
- **Bearings**: Replace worn bearings to reduce noise and ensure smooth operation.
- **Clutch**: If the clutch is worn, replace it. This allows for proper disengagement and engagement of gears.

#### 4. Reassembly
- **Lubrication**: Ensure all components are properly lubricated. This minimizes friction and wear, improving the lifespan of the transmission.
- **Alignment**: Ensure that all parts are aligned correctly during reassembly to avoid future issues.

#### 5. Testing
- **Function Test**: After reassembly, test the transmission by shifting through all gears to ensure smooth operation and to confirm that the repair has resolved the initial issue.

### How Repairs Fix the Faults:
- **Replacing Worn Gears**: New gears ensure proper engagement, preventing slippage and enhancing power transfer.
- **Adjusting or Replacing the Clutch**: A functioning clutch allows for proper gear engagement, preventing grinding or difficulty in shifting.
- **Sealing and Lubrication**: Proper lubrication reduces wear and helps maintain operational efficiency, preventing overheating and damage.

By following these steps, you can effectively repair the manual transmission of a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor, addressing the specific fault while also ensuring the overall health of the transmission system.
rteeqp73

### Flywheel Resurfacing on a Massey Ferguson MF35 Tractor

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Flywheel Resurfacing Machine** (or a lathe with flywheel adapter)
2. **Dial Indicator** (for measuring runout)
3. **Torque Wrench**
4. **Micrometer or Caliper** (for measuring thickness)
5. **Safety Goggles**
6. **Dust Mask**
7. **Shop Manual** (for specifications)
8. **Brake Cleaner** (for cleaning)
9. **Shop Towels or Rags**
10. **Impact Wrench** (optional)
11. **Flywheel Puller** (if necessary)

#### Safety Precautions:
- Always wear safety goggles and a dust mask to protect from debris and dust.
- Make sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
- Disconnect the tractor battery before starting work to prevent electrical shorts.
- Ensure all tools are in good condition and properly maintained.
- Be cautious when handling heavy components like the flywheel.

#### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation**:
- Disconnect the battery and remove any covers obstructing access to the flywheel.
- Drain the engine oil and coolant if necessary.

2. **Remove the Flywheel**:
- Use an impact wrench to loosen the flywheel bolts. If they are stubborn, a flywheel puller may be necessary.
- Carefully remove the flywheel and place it on a clean, flat surface.

3. **Inspect the Flywheel**:
- Use a micrometer to check the flywheel thickness. Ensure it meets the minimum thickness specifications in the shop manual.
- Check for cracks, warping, or excessive wear.

4. **Clean the Flywheel**:
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to remove any oil, grease, or debris from the flywheel surface.

5. **Check for Runout**:
- Mount the flywheel on the resurfacing machine or lathe.
- Use a dial indicator to check for runout, ensuring it is within acceptable limits. Adjust as necessary.

6. **Resurfacing**:
- Set the resurfacing machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Slowly lower the cutting tool onto the flywheel surface, ensuring even contact.
- Make multiple passes if needed, checking the surface finish between passes.

7. **Final Inspection**:
- After resurfacing, check the surface for smoothness and that it meets the specifications.
- Measure the thickness again to ensure it is within limits.

8. **Reinstallation**:
- Clean the mounting surface on the engine block.
- Position the flywheel back onto the engine, ensuring proper alignment.
- Torque the flywheel bolts to the manufacturer's specifications using a torque wrench.

9. **Reconnect Components**:
- Reinstall any components removed during the flywheel removal process.
- Reconnect the battery and refill oil and coolant if drained.

10. **Testing**:
- Start the tractor and listen for any unusual noises or vibrations.
- Ensure smooth operation of the clutch and transmission.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Neglecting Thickness Check**: Always measure the flywheel thickness before resurfacing; if it's below the minimum, replacement is necessary.
- **Inadequate Cleaning**: Failing to clean the flywheel can lead to contamination and uneven wear.
- **Incorrect Torque Settings**: Always use a torque wrench to ensure bolts are tightened to the correct specifications to avoid flywheel damage or failure.
- **Inaccurate Runout Measurement**: Ensure the flywheel is properly mounted and leveled in the machine to avoid incorrect readings.

#### Replacement Parts:
- If the flywheel thickness is below specifications or if there are cracks, a replacement flywheel is required.
- Inspect the flywheel bolts for wear; replace if necessary.

By following these steps, you can successfully resurface the flywheel on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor, ensuring proper function and longevity.
rteeqp73

Tools & consumables needed
- Engine hoist (cherry picker) or heavy-duty floor jack + engine support bar. Use chains/straps rated > engine weight.
- Floor jack and 2–4 jack stands (rated capacity) to support tractor if needed.
- Wooden block (2"–3" hardwood) to sit between jack and oil pan/block.
- Socket set (deep and standard) and ratchet — sizes likely 3/8" or 1/2" drive; sockets 10–22 mm (or 3/8"–7/8") to cover both metric/imperial bolts.
- Breaker bar 1/2" drive.
- Torque wrench (range to at least 150 ft·lb / 200 N·m).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar).
- Wire brush, rags, shop cleaner.
- Pry bar and large screwdriver.
- Hammer or dead-blow mallet.
- Impact wrench (optional, for seized bolts).
- Heat source (propane torch) for crusted studs (use with caution).
- New engine mounts (OEM or quality aftermarket) and new grade 8 (or equivalent) bolts/nuts/washers — always replace hardware if corroded or stretched.
- Thread locker (medium strength, blue).
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots.

Safety precautions (do these first)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, block rear wheels with chocks.
- Remove ignition key and disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental starts.
- Never rely solely on a hydraulic jack to support the engine. Use an engine hoist or mechanical support and safety chains/jack stands as backup.
- Use eye protection and gloves. Keep bystanders clear.
- If heating bolts, be aware of nearby fuel, hoses, and rubber — protect them and ventilate.

Overview of procedure
You will support and lift the engine slightly, remove the mount bolts, swap the rubber mounts, align and torque new hardware, then test. Typical MF35 mounts are rubber-in-metal units mounted between engine/frame. Replace in pairs or all mounts if one is bad.

Step-by-step replacement
1. Preparation
- Park tractor on level surface, chock wheels, neutral gear, parking brake set.
- Disconnect negative battery cable and move battery out of the way if it obstructs access.
- Clean area around mounts with wire brush and rag so you can see mounting bolts and bracket faces.
- Spray penetrating oil on mount bolts and studs; allow soak time.

2. Access & remove obstructions
- Remove fan belt or fan if it interferes. Loosen alternator/fan belt tensioner and slip belt off.
- If needed, remove radiator cowling or side panels for access.
- Note position of any wiring or hoses attached to engine/frame; unclip or move them out of the way.

3. Support the engine
- Position engine hoist chain on a strong lifting point on the engine (intake manifold lifting eyes or designated lifting bracket). If using a floor jack, place a wooden block between jack saddle and oil pan or engine crossmember to distribute load — do not press on oil sump edges.
- Lift just enough to take the weight off the mounts (a few mm to 10–25 mm) — you only need to relieve pressure on bolts. The frame or hoist must carry the engine weight; put a safety chain or secondary support in place.

How the tools are used:
- Engine hoist: hook chains to lifting point, lift slowly until mounts are unloaded. Keep hoist locked.
- Floor jack: use wood block under oil pan, jack slowly and place jack stands or safety blocks to catch engine if jack fails. Never crawl under unsupported engine.

4. Remove mount nuts/bolts
- With mounts unloaded, use appropriate socket and breaker bar (or impact) to remove mount through-bolts. One bolt may be on engine block side and one on frame — remove both.
- If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil repeatedly and tap bolt head with hammer to work oil in. Use heat on nut/stud only if necessary and safe.
- Keep track of washers and plates. If studs are rusted and pulled out, you may need to cut studs and re-tap threads or replace studs.

Tool usage detail:
- Breaker bar gives leverage for stubborn fasteners. Impact wrench shortens time but use caution to avoid snapping studs.
- Pry bar can help separate the mount from bracket if the rubber is stuck.

5. Remove old mount
- Once bolts removed, pry out the old mount. If it’s swollen or corroded, use a hammer and drift to push it out. Clean mounting faces and bolt holes with wire brush.

6. Fit new mount
- Compare new mount to old — confirm orientation and that metal sleeve aligns.
- Apply a thin film of anti-seize on bolts/threads (or thread locker if specified) and insert new mount into bracket. If mount has a compression requirement, ensure the rubber tag/arrow faces correct direction per manufacturer (usually rubber bulge outward).
- Hand-start bolts to ensure correct thread engagement.

7. Align engine and tighten
- Slowly lower engine hoist/jack until mount carries load, but do not fully torque bolts yet. Align engine so drive-shaft/PTO alignment is maintained and so mounts sit square.
- With engine settled, tighten mount bolts just enough to hold mount in compression but not to crush rubber (hand-tighten then snug).
- Final torque: consult MF35 manual for specific torque. If manual unavailable, torque bolts to a moderate value based on bolt size (an M10 ≈ 35–50 N·m / 25–37 ft·lb, M12 ≈ 60–90 N·m / 45–66 ft·lb) — these are approximate; check factory spec where possible.
- Use torque wrench to final-torque nuts evenly. If multiple mounts replaced, torque in sequence to bring engine level.

Tool usage detail:
- Torque wrench ensures correct clamping force and prevents over-compression of rubber.
- Pry bar helps align mount bolt holes if they don't line up exactly.

8. Reinstall removed parts
- Refit fan, belts, radiators, shrouds, battery, and reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and idle. Listen for new noises and feel for vibration. Check for misalignment by verifying PTO/gearbox behavior and no binding.

9. Final checks
- After a short run (10–30 minutes), retorque mount bolts to ensure no settling.
- Inspect for oil leaks or any loose brackets/wires disturbed during the job.

Replacement parts required
- Correct MF35 engine mount(s) — replace all worn mounts; replacing in pairs or all three is recommended.
- New bolts/nuts/washers if originals are corroded or show elongation — use equivalent grade (grade 8/10.9 for imperial/metric).
- Thread locker and anti-seize as needed.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Relying on a single hydraulic jack: always use an engine hoist or secondary supports and safety chains.
- Damaging the oil pan: always use a wooden block between jack and pan; never position jack on thin sheet metal.
- Using incorrect mount/orientation: compare old and new units; install orientation same as original to avoid misalignment and premature failure.
- Over-tightening bolts: will crush the rubber and shorten mount life — use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Reusing corroded bolts/studs: they can snap when torqued; replace hardware if in doubt.
- Not aligning engine before final torque: causes driveline binding and vibration.
- Not checking other mounts: a failed mount stresses others — inspect all mounts and replace if cracked or soft.
- Forgetting to retorque after initial run: mounts settle; retorque after short operation.

Time estimate
- One mount (easily accessible): 1–2 hours. Replacing multiple mounts and doing it carefully: 2–6 hours depending on corrosion and access.

Done checklist
- All mounts replaced and torqued to spec (or reasonable approximation if spec not available).
- Battery reconnected.
- No fluid leaks or loose wires.
- Engine idle and run test performed; re-torque after warm-up.

End.
rteeqp73

Short overview
- The “shift drum” (selector drum) is the rotating cam in the MF35 gearbox that guides selector forks to engage gears. When worn or damaged the gearbox will be hard to select, pop out of gear, grind, or skip gears. Repair is a mix of careful disassembly, inspection, repair or replacement of the drum and forks and correct reassembly/adjustment.

Components (every component you will touch and what each does)
- Gearbox casing: houses shafts, gears, drum and forks; supports bearings.
- Clutch housing / bellhousing: connects clutch to gearbox; you’ll remove linkage and sometimes separate halves.
- Shift lever & external linkage: transfers driver input to internal selector mechanism.
- Selector/shift drum (selector drum, cam drum): a cylinder with spiral grooves/cams; rotates to move selector forks along splines/rails.
- Shift forks (selector forks): metal forks that slide on the drum grooves and physically move the sliding collars (dog collars) or gears to engage a gear.
- Selector rails / selector shafts (if present): shafts that the forks ride on and slide along.
- Selector forks bushes / pads: wear surfaces between fork and sliding collar or drum groove.
- Shift cam followers / pins / rollers (if fitted): transmit motion between drum groove and forks.
- Detent mechanism (spring, ball or plunger and spring, indexing plate): catches the drum in correct gear positions and gives positive feel; prevents drum wandering.
- Retaining plate / circlip / cover plate: locks the drum in position axially.
- Bearings / bushings for drum ends: supports drum rotation.
- Sliding collars / dog gears / lay/ mainshaft gears: the parts the forks move to engage gear selections.
- Gaskets, seals, O-rings, gearbox oil: miscellaneous consumables.

Theory — how the system works (analogy included)
- Analogy: The shift drum is like a cam-shaped record and selector forks are like tone-arm pick-ups. As the record (drum) rotates step-by-step, the grooves move the tone-arms (forks) sideways to engage different “tracks” (gears).
- In operation: the driver moves the external lever → linkage turns the shift drum step-by-step. The spiral/cam grooves on the drum translate rotation into linear movement of the forks. Each drum position aligns a fork to push a sliding collar onto one gear dogset, locking that gear to a shaft and delivering power through the gearbox. Detents lock the drum in precise positions so a gear stays engaged until intentionally changed.
- Important: Most tractor gearboxes are unsynchronized. Gear selection requires the clutch (or rev-matching) to avoid grinding because the sliding collars engage non-splined rotating parts.

Why this repair is needed (symptoms & root causes)
Symptoms that point to drum/fork problems:
- Hard-to-select gears or missed selections.
- Gear lever moves but gearbox doesn’t engage (no rack/fork movement).
- Gears pop or jump out (drum not holding position/detent failure).
- Grinding when changing gears even with clutch used.
- Excessive lateral play in forks, worn fork tips scored or rounded, deep grooves in the drum.
- Sloppy indexing (no positive stops) or excessive end-play of drum.
Root causes:
- Wear of drum grooves where forks ride (metal-on-metal wear).
- Worn or broken fork tips/bosses, worn bushes.
- Damaged detent ball/spring or indexing plate.
- Bent forks, bent rails, worn drum bearings.
- Corrosion or rough surfaces, poor lubrication, or previous improper repairs.

Tools, parts & supplies you need
- General hand tools: metric sockets and spanners, screwdrivers, pliers, circlip pliers, drift punches, mallet.
- Torque wrench (use workshop manual torque specs).
- Snap-ring/circlip pliers, pullers for shafts/couplings if required.
- Feeler gauges, straight edge, vernier caliper, micrometer (for measuring wear).
- Dial indicator (for runout / endplay checks).
- Solvent, brake cleaner, rags, parts trays and magnetic tray.
- Bearing puller, hydraulic press or arbor press if removing bushes.
- Welding gear or brazing & lathe access only if you plan to rebuild the drum (prefer professional machine shop if you’re not experienced).
- New replacement parts where needed: selector drum (preferred), forks, bushes, detent kit, seals, gaskets, gearbox oil.
- Assembly lube and correct grade gearbox oil.
- MF35 workshop manual for torque specs, exploded diagrams and gear counts.

Step-by-step repair procedure (practical, beginner-friendly)
Safety first
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery. Place tractor in neutral, set parking brake. Drain gearbox oil into a clean container (catch and dispose appropriately). Use jack stands if you must raise tractor. Wear gloves and eye protection.

1) Prepare and mark
- Photograph everything and mark linkage positions so you can reassemble identical to how it came apart. Drain oil and remove any covers that block access to the top of the gearbox and shift linkages.

2) Remove external shift linkage and shift lever
- Disconnect the external lever and linkage rods. Remove bolts that secure lever housing/cover. Note neutral position.

3) Remove gearbox top cover (selector cover) and any covers to access selector drum
- Remove cover bolts and lift cover—some gearboxes have a top plate with the drum and forks visible. Keep bolts in order and note any dowels or locating pins.

4) Inspect without removal first
- Manually operate the lever and watch drum rotation and fork movement. Note play, binding, or missing detents. This helps confirm issues before full disassembly.

5) Remove retaining plate and withdraw drum
- Unfasten the drum retaining plate or circlip. Slide the drum out axially (you may need to remove other components such as the layshaft sliding collar assembly first depending on MF35 internal layout). Keep parts ordered.

6) Inspect the drum and forks
- Visual inspection: look for deep grooves, flat spots, pitting or cracked metal on drum grooves and fork contact faces.
- Measure wear: check drum bore for ovality/runout, measure groove edges for rounded corners. Compare fork tip thickness and inspect fork bosses for elongation. Check bushings and rails for play. Use a dial indicator to measure endplay/runout if possible.
- Check detent system: spring broken, ball deformed, indexing plate wear.

7) Decision: repair or replace
- Replace drum if grooves are badly worn—this is usually the best long-term fix if a good replacement is available.
- Repair options if new drum not available:
- Sleeve/bush repair: fit a machined bushing or sleeve in the drum grooves; press-fit in place and machine new grooves to original profile (needs machine shop/lathe).
- Weld/buildup & re-machine: weld worn areas and machine back to original profile (professional job).
- Replace forks and bushes if just forks are worn.
- Don’t attempt one-off welding and hand filing for a cam surface—accuracy is critical for correct indexing and fork travel.

8) Repair/replace forks and bushes
- If fork tips are worn, replace forks or weld and re-machine the tips (again, shop work). Replace any worn bushings and rails. If forks ride on sleeves or rollers fit replacements. Ensure forks slide freely but without excessive side-play.

9) Check detents and indexing
- Replace worn balls, springs or plates. The detent must positively engage drum stops. A worn detent will allow the drum to drift and cause gear slip.

10) Reassembly
- Clean all parts thoroughly. Use assembly lube on moving surfaces and new gaskets/seals where required.
- Slide drum back in the correct axial orientation. Ensure rolls/pins are aligned with the grooves before full seating. Reinstall retaining plate and torque fasteners per manual. Replace top cover gasket and bolts—torque to spec.
- Refit external linkage and lever in the marked positions. If you can’t find torque specs, tighten to snug then consult manual—do not overtighten.

11) Adjustment & checks before running
- With gearbox top cover off or before closing, manually run the lever through all positions and verify that each gear position corresponds to the correct drum rotation and fork travel. Check that collars fully engage gears without binding.
- Check drum endplay and lateral float: minimal axial play but not binding. If excessive, alter shims or fit new bearings as per manual.
- Verify detent clicks and that drum locks positively in each position.
- Make sure forks do not contact gearbox housing or other components when in extremes of travel.

12) Fill gearbox and test
- Replace the gearbox oil with the correct grade and amount (refer to manual). Reconnect battery and lower tractor if raised. With clutch engaged, start engine and test applications:
- With clutch in, try to select gears—should be smooth and not require double clutching beyond normal unsynchronized gearbox practice.
- Listen for grinding or popping. Drive slowly in a safe area and go through gears. Watch for popping out of gear or excessive noise.
- If problems persist, re-open and re-inspect alignment, drum seating, detent engagement, and fork wear.

What can go wrong — common failure modes and their fixes
- Worn drum grooves: causes sloppy selection and jumping out of gear. Fix: replace drum or machine sleeve/bush.
- Worn/broken fork tips: cause inability to engage collars or incorrect engagement; fix: replace forks.
- Damaged detent (ball, spring, plate): drum can wander and allow gear pop-out; fix: replace detent components.
- Bent forks/shafts: cause binding and incomplete engagement; fix: replace or straighten as appropriate, replace shafts/bushes if worn.
- Incorrect reassembly orientation/shim settings: causes mis-indexing, gear clash, or binding; fix: reassemble consulting manual, check indexing.
- Improper welding/repair: inaccurate re-profile causes poor engagement; fix: have drum professionally machined or replace.
- Oil contamination or incorrect oil: accelerates wear; fix: clean, flush, use correct oil and change at recommended intervals.
- Missing/snagged springs or circlips: parts can be lost during disassembly — keep a clean parts tray and follow manual. Replacements are inexpensive compared to damage caused by running without them.

Practical tips & beginner mistakes to avoid
- Always photograph and mark parts and positions before disassembly—this avoids reassembly errors.
- Don’t hammer components that should press-fit—use proper pullers/press. Excessive force can bend forks or damage bearings.
- If unsure about machining a drum, invest in a replacement or use a professional machine shop. The drum profile and indexing must be accurate.
- Cleanliness matters: sand/grit or old grease causes rapid wear on new parts.
- Replace small cheap parts (detent balls, springs, circlips) while you’re in there—they fail later if re-used.
- Always check clutch operation and free play; poor clutch release can mimic gearbox faults.

Wrap-up checklist before closing up
- Drum grooves and fork faces smooth and within wear limits (or new parts installed).
- Detent mechanism rebuilt or replaced and operating.
- Drum seated and retained; axial play within manual spec.
- Forks slide freely and fully engage sliding collars/dogs.
- No foreign parts left in gearbox; new gaskets and seals fitted.
- Gearbox oil refilled to correct level; all bolts torqued to manual values.
- Road test through full range of gear positions with particular attention to engagement and retention.

If you want concrete part numbers, torque figures, oil grade and capacities, or step-by-step photos for the MF35 specifically, consult the MF35 workshop manual or a reputable parts supplier for exact specs.
rteeqp73