Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Metric/Imperial hand tools: sockets, ratchets, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Torque wrench (range to cover small bolts up to ~200 Nm).
- Transmission jack or engine hoist with transmission adapter.
- Floor jack + jack stands (rated).
- Wheel chocks.
- Flywheel holding bar / gear puller or locking pin.
- Clutch alignment tool (or improvised mandrel matching input spline).
- Pilot bearing/bushing puller, bearing press or suitable drivers.
- Snap-ring pliers, circlip pliers.
- Seal driver set and drift punches.
- Hydraulic press or arbor press (for bushings/bearings).
- Pullers (gear/inner hub) and slide hammer.
- Brake/parts cleaner, lint‑free rags, gasket scraper.
- Solvent, assembly lube, high-temp grease.
- New gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, clutch friction plates/steels, springs, pilot/release bearings, input shaft seals as required.
- Replacement gearbox / torque-converter fluid (manufacturer spec).
- Service manual for MF35 or the specific torque-converter conversion fitted (for torque values, clearances, part numbers).

Safety first (read and follow)
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels; put tractor in neutral and set parking brake.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Use jack stands rated for the load. Never support transmission by hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points; lift with helpers or hoist when heavy.
- Dispose of fluids per local regulations.

Overview & notes specific to MF35
- Original MF35 tractors commonly have a dry single‑plate clutch / gearbox. If your MF35 has a torque‑converter clutch (aftermarket or later conversion), the basic removal/inspection follows transmission removal and separation from engine and bellhousing.
- Always confirm which clutch assembly is fitted and get the correct replacement friction plates, seals and fluids before starting.

Step-by-step repair procedure

1) Preparation and documentation
- Park tractor, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain gearbox/transmission and torque-converter fluid into a suitable container.
- Photograph linkages, wiring, and hose runs for reassembly. Label shift linkages, hydraulic lines, and speedometer cable.

2) Remove ancillaries and gain access
- Remove PTO shafts, drawbar, seat frame or anything blocking access.
- Remove gearbox cover panels, toolbox if necessary.
- Disconnect the clutch slave linkage/actuation rod or hydraulic lines to the clutch actuator.
- Unbolt gearshift levers and linkage ends at the gearbox — mark positions for exact reassembly.

3) Support engine and transmission
- Support engine with hoist or engine support if bellhousing bolts will be removed and engine may tilt.
- Position transmission jack under gearbox; raise to take load.

4) Separate transmission from engine
- Remove bellhousing bolts in a pattern; keep bolts sorted by length.
- Carefully slide gearbox back using the jack; some models require slight engine movement or spacer removal.
- If a torque-converter is present between engine and gearbox, unbolt converter-to-flywheel/drive plate bolts (access from bellhousing face or flywheel side) and support the converter on the transmission jack as you separate.
- Once free, lower the assembly to a stable workbench or transmission stand.

How tools are used here:
- Transmission jack: cradle gearbox square, lift slowly, and keep it level during bolt removal. Use straps to secure gearbox to the jack.
- Flywheel holding bar: use to prevent engine rotation when removing converter/flywheel bolts.
- Impact gun carefully: only if you know bolt condition; avoid rounding bolts.

5) Remove torque converter/clutch assembly from gearbox/housing
- If the converter is bolted to the flexplate: remove bolts and slide converter off input shaft. If the converter is a press-fit hub, use an appropriate puller or slide hammer.
- If clutch pack is within gearbox housing, unbolt cover plates and remove clutch cover/pressure plate assembly.
- Use snap-ring pliers to remove retaining rings, then slide out clutch hub, drive plates, friction plates, steels and any separating springs.

6) Clean and inspect parts
- Clean parts with solvent and lint-free rags; do not soak friction plates in solvent or let them soak in oil — they must be dry unless they’re designed as wet clutch plates.
- Inspect friction plates for glazing, cracks, worn splines and minimum thickness. Inspect steel plates for warpage (use straightedge), discoloration (overheat), scoring.
- Inspect hub splines and input shaft splines for rounded or worn teeth.
- Inspect bearings (input shaft bearing, thrust bearings) for play and pitting.
- Inspect seals, O-rings, and mating surfaces for grooves or damage.
- Check torque-converter oil pump and internal stator or turbine (if accessible) for metal debris.

Acceptance criteria (replace if):
- Friction plates below manufacturer min thickness, glazed, or contaminated with clutch oil that can’t be cleaned.
- Steel plates badly warped or scored.
- Any bearings rough or with axial/radial play beyond limits.
- Cracked housings, stripped splines, or welded repairs.
- Seals hardened, torn, or leaking.

7) Replace wear parts
- Replace friction plates and steel plates as a matched set if worn — mixed thicknesses cause chatter.
- Replace all seals and O-rings between converter and gearbox and on input shaft/pilot.
- Replace pilot bearing/bushing and release bearing while access is open.
- Replace any worn bearings or bushings using arbor press or bearing driver.

How to use key tools for replacement:
- Seal driver: use blunt seal driver sized to outer diameter of seal; tap in square and flush.
- Bearing press/press: put bearing on shaft and press evenly; use correct adapters to avoid pressurizing inner race incorrectly.
- Clutch alignment tool: fit into clutch hub and splines when assembling clutch pack to center it for bellhousing mating.

8) Reassemble clutch pack / torque converter
- Refit friction and steel plates in correct order and orientation; light coat of recommended lubricant on splines only (not friction surfaces) if wet-clutch—do not soak plates unless specified.
- Reinstall pressure plate, springs, and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts in a star pattern to specified torque (service manual).
- If applicable, refill torque converter with correct fluid to fill-point procedure (some converters must be filled before installation or after mated and primed).

9) Reinstall transmission to engine
- Align clutch/torque-converter to flywheel/drive plate using alignment tool; slowly slide gearbox input shaft into clutch hub/pilot bearing.
- Ensure no interference and that converter engages into the pump or drive correctly—some converters require rotating into position until bolts line up.
- Reinstall bellhousing bolts in pattern and torque to spec.
- Reconnect linkages, cables, PTO shafts, speedometer, and hydraulic lines. Replace any gaskets or crush washers.

10) Refill fluids and final checks
- Refill gearbox and torque converter with correct fluid type and quantity as per manual.
- Bleed any hydraulic clutch systems if present (follow bleeder screw procedure).
- Reconnect battery.
- With tractor on stands (wheels chocked), run engine and cycle clutch through gear changes with the tractor lifted (if safe) to check engagement. Listen for noise, check for leaks, and verify smooth engagement without chatter or slip.
- Test under light load in field, then check fluid levels again and torque of external fasteners.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Contaminating friction plates: keep solvents/grease off friction surfaces; if plates oil-contaminated, replacement usually required.
- Wrong plate set or mixing new/old plates: always fit matched sets and check thickness stack height.
- Not replacing pilot/release bearings: cheap to replace now; failure will ruin new clutch.
- Improper alignment on reassembly: use alignment tool and ensure input shaft engages smoothly — forcing will damage splines.
- Bolt mix-up: keep bolts sorted; use factory-length bolts — wrong length can bottom out or strip threads.
- Under-torquing/over-torquing fasteners: use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Not supporting engine/transmission: risk of injury or misalignment.
- Reusing soft or distorted gaskets: replace all sealing surfaces and use correct sealant where specified.
- Forgetting to prime torque converter (if required): air pockets cause start-up damage.
- Not checking for other causes of slip (hydraulic pressure, worn flywheel, actuator problems): address actuator and hydraulics as well as clutch parts.

Replacement parts typically required
- Friction plates + steel plates (matched set) for torque-converter clutch pack.
- Pressure plate/cover or internal springs if worn.
- Pilot bearing/bushing and release bearing.
- Input shaft oil seals and torque-converter seals.
- Gaskets and O-rings for bellhousing and cover plates.
- Any worn bearings, bushings, or damaged hub/spline parts.
- Fluid — gearbox oil, torque-converter fluid (type per conversion).

Final notes
- Use the MF35 or conversion’s service manual for exact disassembly order, part numbers, clearances and torque values. If the tractor uses an aftermarket torque‑converter assembly, use that supplier’s manual.
- If in doubt about press-fit bearings, bearing races, or flywheel resurfacing, have a machine shop handle those operations.

That’s the complete, stepwise procedure. Follow the safety steps, use the right tools (transmission jack, clutch alignment tool, seal drivers, press) and replace worn friction plates, seals and bearings. Avoid contamination of friction surfaces and always use factory torque specs.
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- **Gather Tools and Materials**
- **Socket Set**: Used for removing and tightening bolts. Ensure you have a ratchet and different sizes of sockets (metric and imperial) to fit the tractor's bolts.
- **Torque Wrench**: Required to tighten nuts and bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque settings to avoid damage.
- **Piston Ring Compressor**: If you are removing pistons, this tool helps compress the piston rings for easy installation back into the cylinder.
- **Valve Spring Compressor**: Essential for removing and installing valve springs without damaging them.
- **Feeler Gauge**: Used to measure the gap between the valve and the seat to ensure proper clearance.
- **Honing Tool or Cylinder Hone**: To smooth out the valve seats if they have wear or pitting. This tool helps create a better sealing surface.
- **Gasket Set**: Replacement gaskets for the cylinder head and valve covers are usually required to prevent leaks after reassembly.
- **Cleaning Supplies**: Use degreaser and a wire brush to clean the old gasket material and carbon deposits from the cylinder head and valves.

- **Preparation**
- **Disconnect the Battery**: Always remove the negative terminal to ensure safety while working.
- **Drain Fluids**: Drain engine oil and coolant to avoid spills and contamination.
- **Remove the Engine Cover**: Use your socket set to remove the bolts securing the engine cover.

- **Disassembly**
- **Remove the Cylinder Head**: Use the socket set to carefully unbolt and lift off the cylinder head. Be cautious of the weight; you may need assistance.
- **Inspect the Valve Seats**: Check for damage or wear. If the seats appear pitted or excessively worn, they may need to be ground down for a better seal or replaced.

- **Valve Removal**
- **Use Valve Spring Compressor**: Position the compressor over the valve spring and compress it to release the keepers. Carefully remove the springs and keepers.
- **Remove the Valves**: Once the springs are off, pull the valves out of their seats. Inspect for wear; if the stems are worn, replacement valves will be required.

- **Valving Seats Work**
- **Honing the Valve Seats**: Use the honing tool to smooth out the seats. This helps create a better seal for the valves.
- **Check Valve Clearances**: Use the feeler gauge to measure the gap between the valve and the seat. If the clearance is not within spec, you may need to adjust the valves or replace them.

- **Reassembly**
- **Clean Surfaces**: Remove old gasket material from the cylinder head and block surfaces.
- **Install New Gaskets**: Place new gaskets on the engine block and cylinder head.
- **Reinsert Valves**: Slide the valves back into their respective seats.
- **Reinstall Valve Springs**: Use the valve spring compressor to put the springs back in place, securing them with the keepers.
- **Reattach the Cylinder Head**: Bolt the cylinder head back onto the block, using the torque wrench to ensure correct torque specifications.

- **Final Checks**
- **Recheck Clearances**: After reassembly, check valve clearances again to ensure they are within specifications.
- **Reconnect Battery and Refill Fluids**: Reconnect the battery and refill engine oil and coolant.
- **Run the Engine**: Start the tractor and monitor for any unusual noises or leaks.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Valves**: If worn, replace with new ones specific to the MF35.
- **Valve Seals**: If old seals are hard or cracked, replace to prevent oil leaks.
- **Gaskets**: Always replace any gaskets removed to ensure a proper seal.

Following these steps with the mentioned tools will help you successfully valve seats on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor.
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### MacPherson Strut Replacement on Massey Ferguson MF35 Tractor

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set** (including deep sockets)
2. **Wrench Set**
3. **Torque Wrench**
4. **Spring Compressor**
5. **Pry Bar**
6. **Jack and Jack Stands**
7. **Impact Gun** (optional)
8. **Hammer**
9. **Pliers**
10. **Safety Glasses**
11. **Gloves**
12. **Shop Manual** (for torque specifications)

#### Replacement Parts:
- New MacPherson strut assembly (or strut insert if applicable)
- Strut mount and bearings
- New hardware (if specified in the service manual)

### Safety Precautions:
1. **Wear Safety Glasses and Gloves**: Protect your eyes and hands from sharp edges and spring tension.
2. **Use Jack Stands**: Never rely solely on a hydraulic jack; always secure the tractor with jack stands.
3. **Work in a Well-Ventilated Area**: If you're working indoors, ensure there’s adequate ventilation.
4. **Follow Torque Specifications**: Use a torque wrench to avoid over-tightening or under-tightening bolts.

### Step-by-Step Replacement:

#### 1. Preparation
- **Park the Tractor**: Ensure the tractor is on a level surface and the engine is off.
- **Disconnect the Battery**: Prevent any electrical issues.

#### 2. Lift the Tractor
- **Jack Up the Front**: Use a hydraulic jack to lift the front of the tractor.
- **Secure with Jack Stands**: Place jack stands under the frame for safety.

#### 3. Remove the Wheel
- **Take Off Front Wheel**: Use a socket and wrench to remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.

#### 4. Access the Strut Assembly
- **Locate the Strut**: Identify where the MacPherson strut connects to the lower control arm and the top of the strut tower.

#### 5. Remove the Strut Assembly
- **Disconnect the Lower Bolt**: Use a socket to remove the bolt connecting the strut to the lower control arm. Use a pry bar if needed to help separate.
- **Remove the Top Mount Bolts**: Inside the engine compartment, locate the three bolts securing the strut mount to the strut tower. Use a socket to remove these.
- **Remove the Strut**: Carefully pull the strut assembly out of the vehicle.

#### 6. Compress the Spring
- **Use a Spring Compressor**: Securely attach the spring compressor to the coil spring of the strut. Ensure it is evenly spaced and tightened.
- **Compress the Spring**: Slowly compress the spring until it is loose enough to remove the strut mount.

#### 7. Replace Components
- **Remove Old Strut Mount**: Take off the old strut mount and bearing from the strut assembly.
- **Install New Mount**: Place the new strut mount and bearing onto the new strut assembly.

#### 8. Reassemble the Strut
- **Reattach the Spring**: Carefully place the strut into the spring compressor and then reattach the coil spring to the strut. Ensure the spring is properly seated in the mount.
- **Release the Spring Compressor**: Slowly release the tension on the spring compressor once everything is secure.

#### 9. Install the New Strut
- **Insert the Strut**: Place the new strut assembly into position where the old strut was removed.
- **Secure with Top Bolts**: Tighten the top mount bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.
- **Reconnect the Lower Bolt**: Align and secure the lower bolt to the control arm.

#### 10. Reinstall Wheel
- **Put the Wheel Back**: Place the front wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- **Lower the Tractor**: Carefully lower the tractor back to the ground.

#### 11. Tighten Wheel Lug Nuts
- **Torque the Lug Nuts**: Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque from the service manual.

#### 12. Final Checks
- **Reconnect the Battery**: Reattach the battery terminal.
- **Test the Strut**: Before taking the tractor for a full operation, check for any unusual noises or movement.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Improper Torque**: Always refer to the shop manual for exact specifications.
- **Not Using a Spring Compressor**: Attempting to remove the spring without a compressor can lead to serious injury.
- **Neglecting Alignment**: After replacing struts, a wheel alignment is often necessary for proper handling.
- **Forgetting to Inspect Adjacent Components**: Check for wear on related parts such as control arms and bushings.

By following these steps and precautions, you can successfully replace the MacPherson strut on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor.
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