### Radiator Replacement on Massey Ferguson MF35 Tractor

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Wrenches** (7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" sizes)
2. **Socket Set** (including extensions)
3. **Screwdrivers** (flathead and Phillips)
4. **Pliers**
5. **Hose Clamp Pliers**
6. **Drain Pan**
7. **Rags/Towels**
8. **Torque Wrench**
9. **Safety Goggles**
10. **Gloves**

#### Replacement Parts:
- New radiator
- Radiator hoses (upper and lower, if needed)
- Hose clamps (if original ones are damaged)
- Coolant (antifreeze)
- Gasket or sealant (if applicable)

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Cool Down**: Ensure the engine is completely cool before beginning work to avoid burns.
2. **Protective Gear**: Wear safety goggles and gloves to protect from coolant and sharp edges.
3. **Work Area**: Ensure you are working in a well-ventilated area and on stable ground.

#### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the tractor on a flat surface and engage the parking brake.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal to prevent electrical issues.

2. **Drain Coolant**:
- Place a drain pan under the radiator.
- Open the radiator drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to allow the coolant to drain completely.

3. **Remove the Radiator Cap**:
- Take off the radiator cap to allow air into the system and facilitate draining.

4. **Disconnect Hoses**:
- Use hose clamp pliers to loosen the clamps on the upper and lower radiator hoses.
- Carefully remove the hoses and set them aside.

5. **Remove Radiator Mounting Bolts**:
- Locate and remove the bolts securing the radiator to the tractor frame using the appropriate wrench or socket.
- Keep these bolts as you may need them for the new radiator.

6. **Remove the Radiator**:
- Carefully lift the radiator out of its mounting brackets. Be cautious of any remaining coolant.

7. **Inspect and Replace Parts**:
- Check the old radiator and hoses for wear; replace if necessary.
- If using new hoses, ensure they fit properly and use new hose clamps for a secure fit.

8. **Install New Radiator**:
- Position the new radiator in place and secure it with the mounting bolts. Tighten bolts evenly to avoid misalignment (use a torque wrench if specified).

9. **Reconnect Hoses**:
- Attach the upper and lower hoses to the new radiator, ensuring they are positioned correctly and secured with clamps.

10. **Fill Coolant**:
- Close the radiator drain valve, if applicable, and refill the radiator with the appropriate coolant.
- Start with a mixture of 50% coolant and 50% water unless otherwise specified.

11. **Check for Leaks**:
- Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Check for any leaks around the hoses and radiator.
- Monitor the temperature gauge to ensure the engine is not overheating.

12. **Final Checks**:
- After the engine has cooled, recheck coolant levels and top off if necessary.
- Reconnect the battery terminal.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Overtightening Bolts**: This can strip threads or damage the radiator. Use a torque wrench if possible.
- **Neglecting Coolant Type**: Ensure the coolant used is compatible with the tractor’s specifications.
- **Forgetting to Reattach Hoses**: Double-check that all hoses are connected securely to avoid leaks.
- **Not Bleeding the System**: If air gets trapped in the cooling system, it can cause overheating. Use the bleeder valve if equipped.

Following these steps will help ensure a successful radiator replacement on your Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor. Always consult the owner's manual for specifications and torque settings specific to your model. rteeqp73

Short version (what this is): the distributor is the “traffic director” for the ignition spark. On an MF35 petrol engine it times and routes the high-voltage pulse from the coil to each spark plug in the correct order, and it contains the mechanical/electrical parts that generate and control that pulse (points, condenser, rotor, cap, centrifugal advance). If the distributor is worn, dirty, or out of adjustment the tractor will be hard to start, run rough, misfire, have poor power or economy, or backfire. Below is a beginner-friendly, detailed walk-through: components, why you service them, what can go wrong, and a step‑by‑step how-to for removal, servicing and timing.

1) Quick theory — what the distributor does and why you fix it
- The coil stores energy and on command dumps it as a high-voltage pulse. The distributor routes that pulse to the correct plug at the correct moment.
- The breaker (contact) points are a mechanical switch that open and close to produce the pulse by interrupting the coil current. The condenser (capacitor) absorbs voltage spikes so the points don’t burn or arc badly and allows a strong secondary spark.
- The rotor and cap direct the high-voltage to the right plug lead.
- The mechanical (centrifugal) advance advances ignition timing as rpm rises so the mixture ignites earlier at high revs.
- If points are pitted, condenser is faulty, shaft bushings are worn, the cap is cracked or the advance is sticky, timing will be inconsistent and spark weak or at the wrong moment — leading to the symptoms above.

Analogy: think of the distributor as a railway switcher plus a telephone operator. The rotor is the operator telling the high-voltage which track (plug) to go down; the points are a manual switch that tell the coil when to dump its energy; the condenser is a shock absorber to keep the switch from being destroyed by arcing; the advance weights are an automatic clock that speeds up the signal at higher engine speeds.

2) Main components (what each part looks like and does)
- Distributor cap: plastic cover with terminals for each plug wire and a center terminal from the coil. Protects internals and provides contact points.
- Rotor arm: inside cap, mounted on top of the distributor shaft. Receives high voltage at its center and contacts each cap terminal as it spins.
- Breaker points (contact points, or “points”): a moving contact and a fixed contact mounted on a hinged plate. When closed they let coil primary current flow; when they open the coil produces the high-voltage pulse.
- Condenser (capacitor): small cylindrical or box part mounted near the points. Prevents point arcing and helps form the spark.
- Distributor shaft and cam: the cam has lobes that push the moving point open the required amount each revolution.
- Centrifugal advance mechanism (weights and springs): small weighted arms that swing out with rpm and rotate the breaker-plate relative to the shaft to advance timing.
- Drive gear / pinion and bushings: the lower shaft has a gear that meshes with the camshaft/flywheel drive. The shaft runs in bushings; wear here causes side play or end play, which makes timing inconsistent.
- Base plate: carries the points and condenser; it rotates slightly for timing adjustment.
- Coil lead / high tension lead: wire from coil to centre of cap; and the spark plug leads that attach to cap terminals.
- Lubrication felt / cam lube area: a small felt or oil hole that supplies lubricant to the cam lobes and bushings.

3) Tools and consumables you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers (flat & Phillips), spanners/sockets for clamp and coil lead, pliers.
- Feeler gauge set (metric and imperial) for point gap.
- Multimeter (optional) or dwell meter (optional) — handy for checking condenser, coil, dwell.
- Timing light (12V) for accurate dynamic (running) timing.
- Small brush, contact cleaner or electrical parts cleaner, clean cloth, petrol or solvent for cleaning parts (use modest amounts, keep away from hot engine).
- Fine emery cloth or points file (use sparingly) and a small sharpening stone for points.
- Distributor grease (lithium or specified cam grease) for cam lobes.
- Replacement parts: points and condenser set (and often rotor and cap), replacement springs/weights if worn, new shaft bushings if sloppy.
- Service manual or spec sheet for exact gap and timing mark values (recommended).

Typical values (many older tractors): point gap about 0.014–0.016 in (0.35–0.40 mm). Dwell ~28–34° (if you use a dwell meter). Static timing typically a few degrees BTDC — check MF35 manual for exact number. If you don’t have the manual, treat those numbers as a starting point and verify with a timing light.

4) Safety first
- Work with engine cool. Disconnect negative battery terminal before you remove parts. When you do timing with the engine running you will reconnect battery; keep hands, clothes, tools clear of moving parts.
- No open flames or sparks near fuel. Work in a ventilated space.
- Always mark wire positions before removing cap to avoid miswiring.

5) Preparation and marking
- Park tractor on level ground, handbrake on. Remove ignition key and disconnect battery negative.
- Remove cap and label each plug wire’s position on the cap, or take a clear photo. You must reinstall in the same order and orientation. On MF35, firing order is usually 1–3–4–2 (confirm your engine), but don’t rely solely on memory — mark wires.
- Rotate engine by hand (socket on crank pulley) to bring piston #1 to TDC on the compression stroke if you are going to do static timing or remove distributor. You can check compression by feeling for pressure at the #1 plug hole as you rotate. When at TDC the rotor should point to the #1 terminal on the cap.

6) Removal of distributor
- With battery negative disconnected and cap removed (wires labelled), note rotor position relative to body. Use a pencil or scribe to mark the housing and rotor shaft position if you want to ensure reinstallation in same orientation.
- Loosen and remove the distributor clamp/bolt at base.
- Carefully lift the distributor straight up. The rotor will rotate slightly as it disengages from the drive gear — that’s normal. Note how far it pulled up (height) and the relationship to markings. Keep parts clean and lay out on clean cloth.
- If the distributor is stiff and won’t come up, you likely need to loosen more or tap with a rubber mallet — don’t pry on fragile parts.

7) Disassembly and inspection
- Remove rotor (often held by a screw or friction fit) and cap.
- Inspect cap for cracks, carbon tracking, burned contacts, or moisture. Replace if any defects.
- Inspect rotor tip for carbon or wear. Replace if cracked or the metal contact is badly worn.
- Remove points and condenser (note mounting orientation). Inspect point faces for pitting, burning, or excessive wear. Small pitting can be dressed with a points file, but deep pits or burned faces mean replacement.
- Check the condenser for signs of leakage or bulging. You can test it with an ohmmeter if you know how, but usually replacement is inexpensive and recommended if suspect.
- Inspect cam lobes for flat spots or excessive wear. Check the cam follower (breaker plate contact) surface.
- Check that the centrifugal advance weights move freely and the springs have tension. If they are stuck with old grease/paint, clean them so they move freely.
- Check shaft endplay and side play by holding the shaft and wiggling. Excessive play means worn bushings — this causes timing to jump and should be repaired (bushing replacement or rebuild).
- Inspect distributor gear teeth for wear; gear play affects timing.

8) Cleaning and minor servicing
- Clean cap and rotor with contact cleaner; remove carbon deposits from terminals. Inspect dielectric surfaces.
- Clean and dress points with a points file or very fine abrasive until flat and shiny. Remove dust with a clean brush; never use sandpaper that leaves grit. Do not over-sand — keep the faces flat and correct.
- Replace points and condenser as a set if any doubt — it’s cheap and prevents later trouble.
- Lightly lubricate the cam lobes with distributor grease (a small smear, not a glob). Some distributors have a felt that should be oiled lightly — follow manual. Do not contaminate the points with grease or oil.
- Clean and lubricate the advance pivot points lightly with penetrating oil, then wipe excess; ensure weights move freely.

9) Reassembly and setting point gap (static)
- Reinstall points and condenser. If the base plate is rotatable, leave the hold-down so you can adjust timing later.
- Set the point gap with a feeler gauge to the specified gap (typical starting point 0.014–0.016 in / 0.35–0.40 mm). Place the feeler on the points and rotate the distributor shaft until points are fully open on a cam lobe to measure and adjust.
- Tighten the points mounting screws securely but don’t crush the pivot.
- Reinstall rotor and cap. Reconnect plug wires to the same terminals as labelled.

10) Reinstalling the distributor and achieving rough static timing
- Lower the distributor back into the engine so the drive gear engages. Align marks you made earlier: match rotor to the #1 terminal and housing mark if you used one.
- The rotor will usually need to be oriented so that when seated the rotor points at the #1 cap terminal. If unsure, bring engine to TDC again, lower distributor until it seats and ensure rotor points to #1.
- The rotor may need a small rotation as the gear meshes fully; that is why timing is adjustable by rotating the whole distributor when the clamp is loose.
- Tighten the distributor clamp lightly — tight enough to hold but still allow turning for timing.

11) Initial checks, reconnect battery and run
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and let it warm. If it won’t start or runs terribly, check wiring order, coil lead, and that points/condenser were installed correctly.

12) Final timing with timing light (recommended)
- Use a timing light for accurate timing. Hook the timing light to the #1 plug lead (or use inductive pickup) and to battery power as per the tool instructions.
- Consult the MF35 timing mark location: usually a mark on the flywheel or timing case and a pointer/scale. If you don’t have the exact spec, many petrol MF tractors are timed a few degrees BTDC; confirm exact degrees in a manual.
- With engine idling (set to recommended idle rpm), loosen the distributor clamp so it can be rotated. Aim the timing light at the mark while an assistant slowly turns the distributor to align the timing mark to the specified BTDC marking. When correct, tighten the distributor clamp while holding it steady. Recheck after tightening.
- If you have no timing marks and no manual: set rotor to point at #1 at TDC (static) and consider that a rough setting; then get a manual or a pro to fine tune for best performance.

13) Dwell and idle adjustments
- If you have a dwell meter, check dwell and adjust as needed by changing points gap. If you don’t have one, the feeler gauge gap is usually adequate. After timing, set idle mixture and rpm per manual for best idle and throttle response.

14) Testing and troubleshooting common problems
- Symptoms and likely causes:
- Hard starting, weak spark, misfire at all speeds: points burned, condenser faulty, weak coil, bad rotor/cap, or poor ground.
- Miss at one cylinder: cracked cap terminal, bad plug lead, or rotor wear.
- Intermittent misfire increasing with rpm: worn bushings (shaft play) or sticky/weak advance springs/weights.
- Backfiring/popping: timing too retarded, or condenser/coil issues.
- Sputter under load: incorrect timing advance or weak coil/points.
- Points burning quickly after service: condenser bad or improper gap, or excessive lead or coil issue.
- Tests:
- Check for spark at each plug using a spark tester or by removing a plug, grounding it safely, and cranking.
- If spark is weak or yellow, suspect poor condenser or weak coil/incorrect dwell.
- If timing jumps at rpm, feel for shaft play or worn gear/bushings; check advance mechanism moves freely.

15) When to rebuild or replace
- Replace cap and rotor if cracked, carbon-tracked or contacts badly worn.
- Replace points & condenser as a set at first service if >5–10 years since last change.
- Replace distributor shaft bushings or the whole distributor if there is significant shaft play: end play or side-to-side wobble that cannot be corrected.
- If centrifugal weights/springs are rusty or stuck, clean; replace springs if weak or broken.

16) Final notes and good practices
- Always replace points and condenser as a matched set if in doubt — cheap insurance.
- Clean parts with electrical cleaner; avoid solvents that leave residues.
- Keep a small service log: date, gap, timing setting, parts changed.
- If you’re unsure of exact MF35 specs (gap, timing degrees, firing order), get a copy of the MF35 service manual or a trusted parts supplier sheet before final tuning.

Concise troubleshooting checklist (quick):
- No spark at all -> check coil primary, battery, connections, points closed, condenser, coil high-tension lead.
- Weak/blue spark only at slow revs -> condenser or coil failing.
- Misfire at high rpm -> sticky advance or worn shaft bushings.
- Intermittent misfire -> cracked cap, carbon tracking, bad rotor, loose connections.

You now have: why the distributor matters, what each piece does, what can fail, what tools/parts to use, and a step‑by‑step process for removal, service and timing. Follow the steps in order, use the feeler gauge and timing light for accuracy, and replace inexpensive wear items (points/condenser/cap/rotor) if anything looks marginal.
rteeqp73

- **Understanding the Flexplate**:
- The flexplate is a component that connects the engine to the transmission in automatic transmission vehicles. If your MF35 has a manual transmission, it may not have a flexplate, but rather a flywheel. Ensure you know which part you need to replace.

- **Tools Required**:
- **Socket Set**: A basic metric or standard socket set (including ratchet) is necessary for removing bolts. Common sizes might include 10mm to 19mm.
- *Usage*: Attach the appropriate socket to the ratchet, place it over the bolt, and turn counterclockwise to loosen.

- **Wrench Set**: An adjustable or fixed wrench set can be used for bolts that are difficult to access.
- *Usage*: Open the wrench around the bolt head, and turn counterclockwise to loosen.

- **Torque Wrench**: Required for tightening bolts to specific torque specifications after reinstallation.
- *Usage*: Set the torque wrench to the specified value, attach it to the bolt, and turn until it clicks, indicating the correct torque has been reached.

- **Pry Bar**: Useful for gently prying components apart if they are stuck.
- *Usage*: Insert the pry bar in a gap and leverage it to separate parts.

- **Safety Gear**: Gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes.

- **Shop Manual**: A service manual specific to the MF35 to reference torque specs and procedures.

- **Steps to Replace the Flexplate**:
- **Safety First**: Disconnect the battery to prevent any electrical issues while working.

- **Remove Transmission**: Depending on your model, you may need to remove the transmission to access the flexplate.
- Use the socket or wrench to remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine. Keep track of all bolts and components.

- **Access Flexplate**: Once the transmission is removed, you'll see the flexplate attached to the engine flywheel.

- **Inspect and Remove**: Check the flexplate for cracks or wear. If damaged, it must be replaced.
- Use the socket or wrench to remove the bolts securing the flexplate to the flywheel.

- **Install New Flexplate**: Place the new flexplate onto the flywheel, aligning it correctly.
- Use the socket wrench to tighten the bolts to the specified torque from the shop manual.

- **Reattach Transmission**: Reinstall the transmission by reversing the removal steps, ensuring all bolts are secured properly.

- **Replacement Parts**:
- If the flexplate is damaged, you will need to replace it.
- **Replacement Part**: A new flexplate for the MF35. Ensure you get the correct part number from the shop manual or a parts supplier.

- **Final Check**:
- After reassembly, double-check all connections, bolts, and ensure that nothing is left loose. Reconnect the battery and start the tractor to test the repair.

- **Post-Installation**:
- Monitor for any unusual noises or vibrations during the first few hours of operation, indicating potential issues with installation.
rteeqp73

Shifting drum repair on a Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor typically involves the transmission or shift mechanism. The shifting drum is crucial for engaging different gears. Here’s an explanation of the theory behind the repair and how it addresses faults:

### Theory Behind the Shifting Drum Mechanism

1. **Function of the Shifting Drum**:
- The shifting drum is part of the transmission system that directs the movement of gears based on the position of the gear lever. It has notches or grooves that align with shifting forks to engage specific gears.

2. **Common Faults**:
- Wear and tear, misalignment, or damage to the shifting drum can lead to difficulty in changing gears, slipping out of gears, or inability to engage certain gears.

### Steps to Repair the Shifting Drum

1. **Diagnosis**:
- Identify symptoms: Check for gear engagement issues, noise during shifting, or the inability to change gears smoothly.
- Inspect the shifting mechanism for wear or damage.

2. **Disassembly**:
- Safely disconnect the battery and remove any surrounding components to gain access to the transmission.
- Remove the shift lever and any cover plates to expose the shifting drum.

3. **Inspect the Shifting Drum**:
- Examine the drum for wear, scoring, or damage in the notches or grooves. Also, check the shifting forks for wear or misalignment.

4. **Repair or Replace**:
- If the shifting drum is worn but not severely damaged, it can be machined or polished to smooth out the grooves.
- If the drum is cracked or excessively worn, replacement is necessary.

5. **Reassembly**:
- Install the repaired or new shifting drum, ensuring proper alignment with the shifting forks.
- Reattach the cover plates and shift lever.

6. **Testing**:
- Reconnect the battery and test the shifting mechanism. Ensure all gears engage smoothly and there are no unusual noises.

### How the Repair Fixes the Fault

- **Restoring Functionality**: Machining or replacing the shifting drum restores the integrity of the grooves, allowing the shifting forks to engage the gears correctly.
- **Eliminating Misalignment**: Proper alignment during reassembly ensures that the shifting mechanism operates smoothly, reducing the likelihood of future gear engagement issues.
- **Enhancing Reliability**: By addressing wear and damage, the repair enhances the overall reliability of the transmission, preventing slipping or failure to engage gears.

In summary, understanding the function and common faults of the shifting drum leads to effective diagnosis and repair, ensuring that the tractor operates efficiently and reliably.
rteeqp73