The colloquial term "Ferguson 28" is sometimes used in Australia and New Zealand for later models of the TE-20 including the petrol TEA-20 and diesel TEF-20.[citation needed] "Ferguson 28" has never been an official tractor model designation. Initially the TE20 had the 'Continental' Z120 23HP engine, as did the Detroit-built TO20 introduced a year later. The 80 mm bore 'Standard' petrol engine was phased in in mid-1947 as the TEA-20, approximately 3,000 of the 20,500 tractors built to 31 December 1947 being TEA-20s. Subsequent to the introduction of the 85 mm bore TED-20 in April 1949, the petrol engine was also made with an 85 mm bore, which increased its power to just over 28 hp. The term "Fergie 28" refers to the nominal horsepower of the later range of tractors. To benefit from the reputation of the later models in the used tractor market, the 23HP TE-20 is often advertised simply as TE-20; only very rarely is it referred to in Australia as a "Ferguson 23". In North America the 'Standard' petrol-engined TEA-20s with the 85 mm bore were known and advertised as TE-2085s.

- **Understanding the Sway Bar Link**
- The sway bar link connects the tractor's rear axle to the chassis and helps control side-to-side movement. If it's worn or damaged, it can lead to instability while driving.

- **Tools Required**
- **Wrench Set (Metric and Standard)**
- Used to remove and tighten bolts and nuts. Having both metric and standard sizes ensures you can fit the correct size.
- **Socket Set**
- Offers a variety of socket sizes for easier access to bolts in tight spaces. A ratchet handle allows for efficient turning.
- **Pry Bar**
- Used to help maneuver parts into position if they are stuck or difficult to align.
- **Torque Wrench**
- Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's specified torque, which prevents damage from over-tightening.
- **Jack and Jack Stands**
- To lift the tractor safely, allowing access to the sway bar link. Always use jack stands for safety when working under the tractor.
- **Safety Glasses**
- Protects your eyes from debris while working.
- **Gloves**
- Protects your hands from sharp edges and contaminants.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Sway Bar Link**
- Inspect the old sway bar link for wear, cracks, or bending. If it shows signs of wear, a replacement is necessary to maintain stability.
- **Bushings**
- Rubber bushings may need replacement if they are cracked or deteriorated. These help reduce vibration and noise.

- **Step-by-Step Replacement Process**
- **Preparation**
- Park the tractor on a flat surface and engage the parking brake.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.

- **Lifting the Tractor**
- Use the jack to lift the rear of the tractor.
- Place jack stands under the tractor to ensure it is stable and safe to work on.

- **Removing the Old Sway Bar Link**
- Locate the sway bar link near the rear axle and chassis.
- Use the wrench or socket set to remove the nuts securing the sway bar link on both ends.
- Carefully pull the old sway bar link out of its mounting points.

- **Installing the New Sway Bar Link**
- Position the new sway bar link in place.
- Hand-tighten the nuts onto the bolts to hold the link in position.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten the nuts to the manufacturer's specifications. This prevents over-tightening and potential damage.

- **Replacing Bushings (if necessary)**
- Remove the old bushings from the sway bar link mounting points.
- Push the new bushings into place, ensuring they fit snugly.

- **Final Steps**
- **Lower the Tractor**
- Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the tractor using the jack.

- **Test Drive**
- Take the tractor for a short test drive to ensure stability and check for any unusual noises.

- **Conclusion**
- Regular maintenance of the sway bar link is essential for safe tractor operation. If you encounter significant wear or damage, consult a professional for further assistance.
rteeqp73

1) Quick theory summary (one paragraph)
- The TE‑20 gearbox transmits engine torque from the input shaft through gears on the layshaft and mainshaft; reverse is achieved by introducing an idler/reverse gear that reverses rotation direction between layshaft and mainshaft. Proper function requires correct tooth geometry and backlash, accurate axial location (end float), and solid bearing/bush support. Faults (grinding, slipping, inability to engage, noisy reverse) come from worn teeth, collapsed/oversized bushes or bearings, mislocation of shafts (wrong shims/endfloat), broken selector dogs/forks or maladjusted selector linkage. Repair restores correct geometry, bearings and axial/spline engagement so the idler and mating gears mesh and carry load without interference or excessive play.

2) Diagnosis (what to check and why)
- Symptom → probable cause:
- Grinding entering reverse: misaligned gears, excessive backlash, worn/broken dog teeth, damaged idler gear teeth.
- Won’t engage or jumps out: worn selector dogs/fork, worn splines, excessive end float.
- Slips under load (cases where teeth seem to rotate): worn teeth or sheared keys.
- Loud bearing whine or rumble in reverse: worn/failed bearings or bushes.
- Inspect externally first: oil condition (metal particles = gear wear), gear lever free play, linkage condition. Theory: oil with metal indicates internal wear; free play indicates selector/dog wear.

3) Preparation and safety (short)
- Park tractor, disconnect battery, drain gearbox oil into clean container, support tractor securely and remove necessary covers. Theory: clean oil prevents contamination; safe support prevents accidents.

4) Remove access components in order (why each)
- Remove clutch housing/cover and clutch assembly or release clutch as required: needed to withdraw mainshaft/layshaft assembly and access gearbox internals.
- Remove gear lever and selector linkage: to free selector components for withdrawal/inspection.
- Unbolt gearbox from chassis or remove as assembly (depending on whether you can work in‑situ). Theory: gearbox disassembly requires separation from engine/transmission chain for shaft extraction.
- Remove top cover/inspection plates and drain oil (already done). Theory: open access to internals to remove shafts and gears.

5) Extract shafts and reverse idler (in order)
- Remove laygear/lay shaft retaining nuts/plates, withdraw layshaft: this takes load off reverse idler and allows access to idler and mainshaft.
- Remove mainshaft or sliding gears as needed (follow gearbox layout): this exposes the reverse idler and its bearings/bushes.
- Withdraw reverse/idler gear and its bush/bearing. Theory: disassembly allows inspection of mating faces, dog teeth, keys and bushes; removing in order prevents bending shafts and preserves part orientation.

6) Inspect components and measure (what to measure and why)
- Inspect gear teeth for pitting, scuffing, broken teeth or edge wear. Theory: tooth damage changes contact pattern and load distribution; pitting indicates surface fatigue.
- Check dog teeth/splines for wear or rounding. Theory: rounded dogs allow slip or incomplete engagement.
- Measure backlash between idler and mating gear with a dial indicator (rock the gear back and forth). Theory: excessive backlash causes impact, noise and mis-engagement; too little causes interference and gear damage.
- Measure bearing/bush clearances and wear: bush inner diameter vs shaft journal, bearing play, endfloat of shafts with dial indicator. Theory: worn bushes move shafts axially/radially altering mesh and increasing stress.
- Check keys and keyways for shear/damage. Theory: a sheared or loose key will let gear slip on shaft.
- Check shaft journals for wear or scoring. Theory: poor journal geometry causes bearing mislocation and vibration.
- Note dimensions and orientation; record any shims or spacers removed. Theory: correct reassembly requires restoring original axial positions or adjusting with shims.

7) Decide repair actions (theory behind replacements)
- Replace worn gears or re‑cut only if teeth geometry outside serviceable limits. Theory: new or reground gears restore original tooth form, running-in and load distribution.
- Replace worn bushes/bearings. Theory: new bearings/bushes restore radial support and correct shaft location; eliminates play and misalignment.
- Replace worn selector dogs/splines or repair with new parts. Theory: positive engagement needs sharp dog faces and correct spline fit.
- If shafts are worn, regrind/re‑machine or replace. Theory: correct journal diameter and concentricity preserve bearing life and mesh geometry.
- Source correct service parts or use measured reconditioning tolerances from TE‑20 manual.

8) Repair actions in order (what you do and why)
- Press out/set in new bearings or bushes on idler/mainshaft/layshaft using a press and proper sleeves: restores radial support and axial location.
- Replace or recondition gear teeth / dogs: fit new gears or replace dog ring; heat or interference fits must be controlled. Theory: restores tooth geometry and positive dog engagement.
- Fit new keys or dowels as required. Theory: ensures torque transfer without slippage.
- Reassemble layshaft and mainshaft partially to measure and set backlash and axial float: install gears and trial-assemble with mating parts to check mesh. Theory: setting mesh here prevents interference when gearbox is fully built.
- Adjust shims/spacers to set end float and backlash to factory or acceptable limits. Theory: axial location changes tooth face contact pattern; shims restore correct tooth contact and preload where required.
- When bushings are replaced and clearances established, recheck gear contact pattern by applying thin marking compound (engineer’s blue or Prussian blue) on gear teeth and rotating under load slowly to verify center of contact. Theory: correct contact pattern indicates proper tooth depth and alignment.
- Fit selector forks and dogs, ensure forks engage dog faces squarely and that dogs fully engage with correct clearance. Theory: forks must locate dogs without binding or excess play to ensure positive selection.

9) Reassembly (order and reasons)
- Reassemble shafts in reverse order of removal, torque fastenings to spec from workshop manual. Theory: correct torque secures components and prevents fretting and loosening.
- Reinstall gearbox to engine/chassis with original shims where required, reconnect linkage. Theory: restoring external alignment avoids introducing new preload or misalignment.
- Refill with correct grade and amount of gearbox oil. Theory: lubrication essential for initial running and longevity.
- Run gearbox slowly in neutral by hand (if possible) to verify free shafts and no binding. Theory: early detection of interference prevents severe damage.

10) Testing and adjustment
- With engine off, select reverse through gear­lever several times and verify engagement and absence of binding.
- Start engine and test reverse at low throttle under no load: listen for unusual noise, feel for smooth engagement. Theory: under low load you can detect noise or incomplete engagement before risking damage.
- Road test at low speed and load, then recheck oil for metal particles and re‑inspect selector engagement and backlash. Theory: running-in allows seating of new parts; recheck ensures repairs cured the root cause.

11) How each repair action fixes faults (concise mapping)
- Replacing worn idler/gear teeth: restores correct tooth profile and contact area so load is shared correctly; eliminates grinding and pitting progression.
- Replacing bushes/bearings and setting end float: returns shafts to correct axial and radial position so teeth mesh at intended points — removes noise, jumping out and poor engagement.
- Replacing selector dogs/forks and keys: restores positive mechanical engagement so reverse cannot slip or fail to engage.
- Correct backlash and shimming: prevents gear interference (too tight) or impact/“clunk” (too loose), producing quiet reliable engagement.
- Replacing contaminated oil and cleaning internals: removes abrasive particles that accelerate wear.

12) Final notes (brief)
- Use the TE‑20 workshop manual for exact tolerances, shim sequences and torque values. Theory explained above is general; exact numeric limits are needed for a correct rebuild.
- Always verify parts fit and contact pattern before final sealing; small errors in shimming or bearing fit are the usual causes of persistent gearbox faults.

End.
rteeqp73