The colloquial term "Ferguson 28" is sometimes used in Australia and New Zealand for later models of the TE-20 including the petrol TEA-20 and diesel TEF-20.[citation needed] "Ferguson 28" has never been an official tractor model designation. Initially the TE20 had the 'Continental' Z120 23HP engine, as did the Detroit-built TO20 introduced a year later. The 80 mm bore 'Standard' petrol engine was phased in in mid-1947 as the TEA-20, approximately 3,000 of the 20,500 tractors built to 31 December 1947 being TEA-20s. Subsequent to the introduction of the 85 mm bore TED-20 in April 1949, the petrol engine was also made with an 85 mm bore, which increased its power to just over 28 hp. The term "Fergie 28" refers to the nominal horsepower of the later range of tractors. To benefit from the reputation of the later models in the used tractor market, the 23HP TE-20 is often advertised simply as TE-20; only very rarely is it referred to in Australia as a "Ferguson 23". In North America the 'Standard' petrol-engined TEA-20s with the 85 mm bore were known and advertised as TE-2085s.

- Short direct fact: The Massey Ferguson TE‑20 is a carbureted tractor and does not have a modern mass airflow (MAF) sensor. Airflow/mixture problems on the TE‑20 are fixed by servicing the air intake, air cleaner and carburettor (carb) or replacing carb parts — not by installing a MAF.

Tools (each tool described and how to use it; assume you have basic tools—if you do not, the extra tools note below explains why you might need them)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Description: Single blade screwdriver for slotted screws and hose clamps common on older tractors.
- How to use: Match blade width to screw slot to avoid stripping. Use steady pressure and turn clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Hold screw steady to avoid slipping into nearby parts.
- Phillips screwdriver
- Description: Cross‑head screwdriver for Phillips screws that may be used on air cleaner covers or small brackets.
- How to use: Align tip fully in the screw and apply straight pressure while turning to avoid cam‑out.
- Combination wrenches (assorted sizes, both metric and imperial if possible; common sizes for tractors include 7/16", 1/2", 9/16" and 10–19 mm)
- Description: Open end for quick fit, box end for better grip on nuts/bolts.
- How to use: Choose correct size; turn using the box end when possible. Use steady force — if stuck, use penetrating oil first.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (same size range)
- Description: Sockets and ratchet make faster removal of nuts/bolts and reach recessed fasteners.
- How to use: Fit socket fully onto fastener; use extensions to reach in tight spots; pull ratchet handle smoothly.
- Adjustable wrench (crescent)
- Description: Single tool to fit many bolt sizes; useful if you don’t have every wrench.
- How to use: Adjust jaw to fit snugly; pull (not push) when possible to reduce slipping.
- Pliers (slip‑joint) and needle‑nose pliers
- Description: Gripping, bending, and removing clips and small parts. Needle‑nose helps with small or hard‑to‑reach pieces.
- How to use: Grip securely; use needle‑nose to retrieve small parts or reposition linkages carefully.
- Hose clamp pliers or small pliers
- Description: For removing and replacing hose clamps on fuel lines and air hoses.
- How to use: Squeeze clamp to open it, slide off, then install new clamp and tighten.
- Wire brush and small brass or nylon brushes
- Description: For cleaning metal surfaces, carbon deposits, and small parts.
- How to use: Brush gently to remove build‑up; use brass to avoid sparking on painted surfaces.
- Carburettor cleaner spray (aerosol)
- Description: Solvent formulated to remove varnish, gum and deposits inside carburettors.
- How to use: Spray into jets, passages and surfaces; wear gloves and eye protection; use in well‑ventilated area.
- Compressed air (canned air or an air compressor with blow gun)
- Description: Clears jets and small passages after cleaning.
- How to use: Blow from the bowl side out through passages; hold small parts in a rag to catch debris.
- Small pick set or dental picks
- Description: For cleaning out tiny jets, bleed holes, and gasket surfaces.
- How to use: Carefully clear obstructions — do not enlarge jets; work gently.
- Small container / magnetic tray
- Description: Keeps small nuts, screws and jets organized so you don’t lose them.
- How to use: Place removed parts in container and label if needed.
- Shop rags and paper towels
- Description: For wiping fuel and solvents.
- How to use: Keep rags available to catch drips; discard soaked rags safely.
- Safety glasses and nitrile gloves
- Description: Protect eyes and skin from fuel and solvents.
- How to use: Put on before spraying cleaners or working with fuel.
- Drain pan and fuel container
- Description: To capture and store small amounts of drained fuel safely.
- How to use: Place under fuel lines or carb bowl when opening to catch fuel.
- Gasket scraper or razor blade
- Description: Removes old gasket material from mating surfaces.
- How to use: Hold blade flat and scrape gently to avoid scoring surfaces.
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
- Description: Ensures critical fasteners get tightened to correct specification.
- How to use: Set to specified torque and tighten until wrench clicks. If you don’t have specs, tighten snugly but don’t over‑torque.
- Multimeter (optional)
- Description: For checking ignition/charging if you suspect electrical cause of running problems.
- How to use: Measure voltage and continuity following multimeter instructions.

Extra tools you may need and why
- Carburettor overhaul kit (gaskets, float needle, jets, seals)
- Why required: Old rubber/cloth gaskets and float needles are usually worn or varnished; a kit restores correct sealing and metering.
- Replacement carburettor (or remanufactured unit)
- Why required: If the carburettor is badly corroded, cracked, or beyond simple rebuild, a replacement is quicker and more reliable.
- New air filter element or oil‑bath filter rebuild kit
- Why required: A clogged filter will starve the engine of air; some TE‑20s use oil‑bath filters that need a rebuilt element.
- Intake manifold gasket
- Why required: Prevents air leaks between carb and manifold which upset mixture — gaskets often fail with age.
- Fuel line and clamps
- Why required: Old lines can be porous or cracked, causing leaks or air ingestion.
- Small replacement parts (float, float needle, jets, screws)
- Why required: Worn or missing parts directly cause poor metering and running issues.

Parts that might need replacement and why
- Air filter element or oil‑bath filter seal
- Reason: Clogged or degraded filter reduces airflow.
- Carburettor overhaul kit (gaskets, seals, float needle, perhaps jets)
- Reason: Restores correct fuel metering, seals leaks, and cures varnished components.
- Carburettor (complete replacement)
- Reason: If body is corroded/cracked or internal bores are pitted and unserviceable.
- Intake manifold gasket
- Reason: Prevents intake air leaks which lean the mixture or cause inconsistent idle.
- Fuel hose and clamps
- Reason: Prevents leaks and air ingestion into fuel supply.
- Float (if cracked or fuel‑logged) and float needle
- Reason: Ensures correct fuel level in the bowl; a bad float causes overflowing or starvation.
- Throttle/choke linkage components (if bent or worn)
- Reason: Ensures proper control and full travel.

Procedure — how to “do a MAF‑style” airflow check and service on a TE‑20 (step‑by‑step actions presented as bullets)
- Safety first
- Work outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area, away from open flames or sparks.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Shut off ignition (remove magneto/ignition kill wire or key) and stop engine before starting.
- Have a fire extinguisher handy.
- Initial visual inspection
- Check the air cleaner: open the cover and inspect element or oil level in oil‑bath filters. Replace or clean if dirty.
- Inspect intake and air box for loose clamps, torn hoses, or holes in the ducting.
- Inspect fuel lines for cracks and fuel leaks.
- Inspect throttle and choke linkages for free movement and correct attachment.
- Basic airflow troubleshooting (quick checks)
- Start by replacing or cleaning the air filter — this often solves “lack of air” complaints.
- Check for intake leaks: with the engine idling (if safe) spray a little carb cleaner or carb‑safe spray around the carb intake flange and manifold gasket area — a change in engine speed indicates a leak. (If you cannot safely run the engine, do a visual check and plan to replace gaskets.)
- Remove and prepare the carburettor for inspection/cleaning
- Place drain pan under carb and clamp off fuel supply or disconnect with fuel container ready.
- Remove air cleaner assembly and note how linkages attach; take pictures with a phone for reassembly reference if helpful.
- Unbolt carb from manifold (use appropriate wrenches/sockets). Keep bolts in a tray.
- Remove throttle/choke linkages carefully, noting positions.
- Once removed, place carb on a clean workbench and drain all remaining fuel.
- Disassemble and clean the carburettor
- Open the float bowl and remove float, float needle, jets, and screws. Keep parts organized.
- Inspect float for fuel saturation (fuel inside float) — replace if soft or heavy.
- Spray carb cleaner through all jets, passages, and the choke/throttle bores.
- Use picks to clear small passages; follow with compressed air to blow passages clear.
- Clean exterior corrosion and gasket surfaces with a wire brush and scraper.
- Replace all gaskets and seals with parts from the overhaul kit.
- Inspect and test reassembly items
- Replace the float needle and any hardened gaskets.
- Check that the throttle valve moves freely and closes fully.
- Fit new intake manifold gasket if old one is brittle or leaking.
- Reinstall carb on manifold with bolts snug (use torque wrench if available; otherwise tight but not seized).
- Reattach linkages and ensure choke operates smoothly.
- Reinstall air cleaner and new or cleaned element
- Ensure the air cleaner housing seals properly to the carb intake — replace seals if damaged.
- Fuel line and filter check
- Replace old hard or cracked fuel lines and clamps.
- If the tractor has an inline filter, replace it. If there is none, consider installing a small sediment filter inline before the carb.
- Start and adjust
- Reconnect ignition and start tractor; if it’s hard to start or runs poorly, you may need to adjust idle and mixture screws (on some carb types).
- Set idle and mixture per TE‑20 manuals or until the engine runs smoothly; small adjustments can make big differences.
- Final checks
- Check for fuel leaks, air leaks, and secure fittings.
- Road/test or run under load to confirm improvement.

When part replacement is required and what to choose
- Replace the air filter element when it’s clogged, torn or oil‑bath elements are dirty and not restorable.
- Use a full carburettor overhaul kit if the carb is original and hasn’t been serviced — old rubber and cork seals almost always need replacing.
- Replace the entire carburettor if the body is corroded, bores are pitted, or rebuilds don’t stop leakage/metering problems.
- Replace intake manifold gasket whenever you remove the carb to ensure no air leaks.
- Replace fuel hoses older than ~5–10 years or if you see cracks/soft spots.
- Replace float or float needle if they show wear, vibration, or fuel logging.

Other useful tips for a beginner (short)
- Take photos at every step — they are invaluable when putting linkages and parts back.
- Work patiently: carburettor jets are tiny; don’t enlarge holes with aggressive picks.
- Keep work area clean and organized; dirt in a carburettor will give trouble.
- If unsure about adjusting mixture/idle, a local tractor shop or experienced owner can confirm final settings.

End summary: There is no MAF sensor on a TE‑20. To fix airflow or air‑metering problems, service or replace the air cleaner and rebuild or replace the carburettor (using a carb overhaul kit and intake gasket). The tools listed above let you safely remove, clean, rebuild and reinstall the carb; the extra replacement parts are necessary because rubber and seals degrade and jets/cavities clog with old fuel varnish.
rteeqp73

### Suspension Arm Repair on a Massey Ferguson TE-20 Tractor

#### Overview

The suspension system on a tractor, including the Massey Ferguson TE-20, plays a crucial role in maintaining stability and comfort while driving. The suspension arms (or linkages) connect the wheels to the tractor body, allowing for controlled movement and absorbing shocks from uneven terrain. When these arms become worn or damaged, it can lead to poor handling, excessive wear on tires, and instability.

### Components of the Suspension System

1. **Suspension Arms**: These are metal arms that connect the axle to the tractor frame. They pivot to allow the wheel to move up and down while keeping the tractor stable.

2. **Bushings**: These are rubber or polyurethane components that fit between the suspension arm and the pivot points. They absorb vibrations and allow for smoother movement.

3. **Bolts and Nuts**: These fasteners secure the suspension arms to the chassis and axle. They need to be strong to withstand the forces during operation.

4. **Shock Absorbers**: These dampen the oscillations caused by the suspension system, providing a smoother ride.

5. **Wheel Axle**: The axle connects the wheel to the rest of the suspension system and helps distribute the weight of the tractor.

### Why Repair is Needed

Over time, components of the suspension system can wear out due to:

- **Fatigue**: Repeated stress can cause metal fatigue in suspension arms.
- **Corrosion**: Exposure to moisture and dirt can lead to rust, weakening the structure.
- **Worn Bushings**: Old or damaged bushings can cause excessive play in the suspension, leading to a rough ride and uneven tire wear.

### Theory Behind Suspension Function

Think of the suspension system like a pair of shock absorbers on a bicycle. The arms and bushings allow the wheels to move independently, absorbing bumps and dips in the road. This keeps the tractor stable, allowing for better traction and control.

### What Can Go Wrong

- **Worn Bushings**: Causes noise and instability.
- **Bent or Broken Arms**: Leads to misalignment, affecting steering and tire wear.
- **Loose Bolts**: Can lead to complete failure of the suspension system.

### Tools and Materials Needed

- Wrench set
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Hammer
- Jack and jack stands
- Replacement suspension arms or bushings
- Lubricant (e.g., grease)
- Safety goggles and gloves

### Detailed Steps for Suspension Arm Repair

1. **Preparation**:
- **Safety First**: Wear safety goggles and gloves.
- **Work Area**: Ensure the tractor is on a flat surface and secure.

2. **Lift the Tractor**:
- Use a jack to lift the front of the tractor.
- Secure it with jack stands to prevent it from falling.

3. **Remove the Wheel**:
- Use a wrench to loosen the lug nuts on the wheel.
- Remove the wheel to access the suspension arm.

4. **Inspect the Suspension Arm**:
- Look for bends, cracks, or excessive rust.
- Check the bushings for wear; they should not be cracked or split.

5. **Remove the Old Suspension Arm**:
- Locate the bolts securing the suspension arm to the chassis and axle.
- Use a socket wrench to remove these bolts. If they are stuck, gently tap them with a hammer.
- Carefully detach the suspension arm from its mount.

6. **Install the New Suspension Arm**:
- Align the new suspension arm with the mounting points.
- Insert the bolts and hand-tighten them first.

7. **Replace Bushings** (if applicable):
- If the bushings are worn, remove them from the old arm and install new ones in the new arm.
- Lubricate the new bushings lightly before installation.

8. **Tighten the Bolts**:
- Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. This ensures they are secure without being over-tightened.

9. **Reattach the Wheel**:
- Replace the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the tractor and fully tighten the lug nuts with a wrench in a crisscross pattern.

10. **Test Drive**:
- Carefully drive the tractor at low speed to test the suspension.
- Listen for unusual noises and check for proper handling.

### Conclusion

Repairing the suspension arm on a Massey Ferguson TE-20 is essential for maintaining stability and safe operation. By understanding the components and following the repair steps carefully, even a beginner mechanic can successfully perform this task. Always prioritize safety and consult the tractor's manual for specific torque specifications and details.
rteeqp73

Ordered, concise procedure with theory and how the repair fixes the fault.

1) What the TE‑20 “valve body” does (theory)
- Function: it is the hydraulic control assembly that directs pump flow to the three‑point lift cylinders and returns fluid to the tank. It contains spools/seats, springs and ports that control pressure, lift, lower rate and draft control.
- Failure modes: internal leakage past worn spools/seats or damaged seals, stuck/spotted spools, broken springs, clogged ports, or a failed relief valve. Symptoms: poor/no lift, slow lift, lift drift (won’t hold position), jerky movement, low system pressure, or external leaks.

2) How replacing the valve body fixes the fault (theory)
- Replacement restores correct internal clearances, fresh sealing surfaces and springs, and an unobstructed flow path. That eliminates internal bypass leakage (restoring pressure and holding), fixes stuck operation, and corrects relief/pressure behavior. If contamination or wear damaged the valve bores/spools beyond reconditioning, a new valve body or rebuilt assembly reestablishes the required hydraulic tolerances so the pump can build and direct pressure where needed.

3) Safety and prep (do these first)
- Park on level ground, stop engine, chock wheels, engage parking brake.
- Lower implements to the ground and support them; if removing hydraulic lines, relieve system pressure by slowly operating controls with engine off and cap lines.
- Collect clean containers and rags, have new gasket/seal kit or replacement valve body, new hydraulic oil if draining, and hand tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, soft mallet, pick, torque wrench if available).
- Work clean: hydraulic systems are sensitive to contamination.

4) Tools & parts needed (minimum)
- Replacement valve body or rebuild kit (spools, seals, springs, gaskets).
- Clean drain pan, rags, solvent (de‑greaser), soft brushes, new hydraulic oil/filters if required.
- Basic hand tools, alignment marks (paintpen), and replacement bolts if corroded.

5) Step‑by‑step removal (ordered)
1. Put the tractor on stands or ensure stable support; disconnect battery for safety.
2. Place a drain pan under the hydraulic housing. Remove hydraulic filler/breather and, if practical, drain hydraulic oil (partial drain is acceptable to limit spillage).
3. Tag and photograph every external hose/pipe so you reconnect correctly. Cap hoses immediately to keep dirt out.
4. Remove any linkages or external control rods attached to the valve body (note orientation and mark fixed positions).
5. Remove mounting bolts securing valve body to the hydraulic housing or manifold. Support the valve body as bolts are removed to avoid damage.
6. Carefully separate the valve body from the housing. Expect residual oil—keep it clean and capture fluid.
7. Withdraw spools and internal components if you intend to inspect/rebuild rather than replace the complete assembly. Lay parts out in order and orientation.

6) Inspection (what to look for and why)
- Spools: look for scoring, wear grooves, pitting, or corrosion. Even small scratches cause internal bypass.
- Valve bore/seat surfaces: check for wear or out‑of‑round that will leak.
- Seals/springs: hardened, broken or collapsed springs and perished seals will fail to hold pressure.
- Ports: check for blockage from sludge, metal particles or varnish. Contamination often indicates pump wear or downstream failure.
- If any spool or bore damage is evident beyond light wear, replacement of the valve body or full rebuild is required.

7) Replacement / rebuild (ordered)
1. If using a replacement valve body: clean mating surfaces on the housing with solvent and lint‑free cloth.
2. Replace all gaskets, O‑rings and seals; never reuse seals exposed to system pressure. Follow the kit layout so each new seal goes to its matching spool/port.
3. If reusing spools, polish very minor scoring only if within tolerance; otherwise replace. Springs should be measured or replaced to spec.
4. Reassemble spools and springs into the new/rebuilt valve body in the original order and orientation. Lightly lubricate spools with clean hydraulic oil on reassembly.
5. Mount the valve body to the housing, aligning dowels or alignment marks made earlier. Tighten bolts progressively to seating snugness; torque to manufacturer spec if available (avoid over‑tightening). Reconnect linkages using original adjustment positions.

8) Reconnect lines and refill (ordered)
- Reattach hoses/pipework in the marked order, remove caps, and tighten fittings cleanly.
- Refill hydraulic oil to the correct level with the recommended fluid. Replace any hydraulic filters if suspected contamination.
- Remove any supports and ensure the lift arms are free.

9) Bleed and test (ordered)
1. With tractor stationary and engine off, cycle the lift control through its motions several times to circulate fluid and release trapped air.
2. Start the engine, run at low speed, and operate the lift up/down several times without load to continue bleeding.
3. Check for external leaks at fittings and mating surfaces.
4. Test lift under load: raise a load to working height and observe if it holds position (no drift) and responds smoothly. Verify lift speed and full travel.
5. Monitor hydraulic pressure if you have a gauge — compare to expected values or typical operating feel: hard hold/normal lift means internal sealing is restored; inability to reach pressure indicates pump or relief valve issues.

10) Why each test confirms the fix (theory)
- Cycling and bleeding ensures air is expelled so compressibility doesn’t mimic loss of pressure.
- Holding a load tests for internal leakage past spools or seats; holding = minimal internal bypass.
- Smooth up/down indicates correct spool movement and spring function; jerky behavior would indicate sticking or wrong clearances.
- No external leaks confirms proper sealing at fittings and gaskets.

11) Common follow‑up issues and causes
- Continued drift or low lift after valve replacement: likely pump wear (internal leakage), incorrectly assembled valve, incorrect seals, or clogged suction/strainer.
- Quick recurrence of failure: contaminated system (metal particles) — flush system and replace oil/filter and investigate pump for wear.
- Hard to shift/slow response: trapped air or incorrect spring preload/assembly.

12) Final notes (concise)
- Cleanliness is critical: contamination ruins valve clearances quickly.
- Replace seals/springs/spools rather than only gaskets if symptoms were internal leak or wear.
- If unsure whether pump vs valve is at fault, check system pressure: low pump pressure means replacing the valve body alone may not solve the problem.

End.
rteeqp73