The colloquial term "Ferguson 28" is sometimes used in Australia and New Zealand for later models of the TE-20 including the petrol TEA-20 and diesel TEF-20.[citation needed] "Ferguson 28" has never been an official tractor model designation. Initially the TE20 had the 'Continental' Z120 23HP engine, as did the Detroit-built TO20 introduced a year later. The 80 mm bore 'Standard' petrol engine was phased in in mid-1947 as the TEA-20, approximately 3,000 of the 20,500 tractors built to 31 December 1947 being TEA-20s. Subsequent to the introduction of the 85 mm bore TED-20 in April 1949, the petrol engine was also made with an 85 mm bore, which increased its power to just over 28 hp. The term "Fergie 28" refers to the nominal horsepower of the later range of tractors. To benefit from the reputation of the later models in the used tractor market, the 23HP TE-20 is often advertised simply as TE-20; only very rarely is it referred to in Australia as a "Ferguson 23". In North America the 'Standard' petrol-engined TEA-20s with the 85 mm bore were known and advertised as TE-2085s.

1) Safety first
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, stop engine, remove key, disconnect battery if you’ll be working near electrics or welding.
- Theory: prevents unexpected engine starts and protects you from moving parts or sparks while working.

2) Define the symptom (quick check, not a question to you)
- Examples: sticky/throttle not returning, excessive free play, inability to reach full throttle, hunting idle, sudden surges.
- Theory: different faults produce characteristic motion problems — binding shows as sticky movement; wear/clearance as free play; broken/short link as incomplete travel.

3) Visual inspection
- Follow the accelerator pedal to the rod/cable to the carburettor/governor/throttle lever; inspect pedal pivot, rod ends/clevises, split pins, springs, bushes, throttle spindle and linkage pins for wear, corrosion, bent rods, kinks, or seized joints.
- Theory: the linkage is a simple series of pivots and a lever; any one worn joint or bend will introduce friction or slack and change the motion transfer. Visual defects point to where mechanical energy is lost or bound.

4) Functional check on bench (or with engine off)
- Operate the pedal and watch movement at each joint and at the throttle butterfly/lever. Note: pedal travel vs. throttle travel, where movement is lost or binding. Check return spring tension and if the throttle lever returns cleanly.
- Theory: mechanical advantage and geometry mean a small pedal travel may need a larger lever travel (or vice versa); watch for hysteresis (different path out vs back) which indicates friction/wear.

5) Measure and note required travel
- With the throttle lever at closed idle, mark positions on rod or measure free length. Depress to full pedal and measure travel at the throttle arm; compare available travel to the throttle arm’s needed angular travel to fully open the butterfly.
- Theory: to achieve full throttle the linkage must supply specific linear travel. If the rod is too short/long or a joint limits movement, full opening won’t occur.

6) Free all binding points and lubricate
- Clean pivot points, remove rust, free seized joints (penetrating oil), then apply light grease or oil to pedal pivot, clevis pins, throttle spindle. Replace any cotter/split pins removed.
- Theory: friction at pivots converts pedal energy to heat/loss instead of throttle motion, causing stickiness and poor response. Lubrication lowers friction so motion transmits correctly.

7) Repair or replace worn joints/bushes
- If peg-in-bushing or lever bushings show oval wear, replace with correct bush or a bronze/nylon press-fit. If clevises, ball-ends or rod threads are playy or elongated, replace them. If rods are bent, replace/straighten only if serviceable.
- Theory: worn bushings produce slack (dead travel) and reduce sensitivity; replacing restores concentric rotation so pedal movement maps precisely to throttle movement.

8) Adjust rod length and geometry (in order)
a) Loosen locking nuts at adjustable turnbuckle/clevis.
b) Set throttle lever to idle position (closed).
c) Adjust pedal/rod length so when pedal is at rest there is a small controlled free-play at the pedal (a few mm) but the throttle is fully closed.
d) Depress to full pedal and confirm throttle lever reaches full-open without stressing or going past its stop; if necessary adjust so full pedal gives full throttle but not over-travel.
e) Re-tighten lock nuts and secure pins.
- Theory: correct rod length and geometry eliminates slack and prevents overstrain. Small free-play keeps idle stable and prevents unintended throttle opening. Full-throttle stop prevents overstressing linkage and the carburettor shaft.

9) Check and secure return springs and stops
- Ensure the throttle return spring is secure, correctly tensioned, and that the throttle stop/idle screw properly limits closed position. Replace weakened springs.
- Theory: return spring provides restoring force so the throttle reliably returns to idle; a weak spring allows the throttle to float/hunt or stay open.

10) Replace or service throttle shaft/butterfly if required
- If the throttle spindle itself has worn bushes allowing play or sticking inside the carb body, strip and replace shaft bushings or the whole carb throttle assembly. Ensure butterfly shaft is free and seals properly.
- Theory: loose spindle lets the butterfly drift and introduces slack unrelated to rod length; worn seats can bind at certain angles causing hesitation.

11) Test under engine load and fine-tune
- Start engine, verify idle stability, test progression from idle to full throttle under load (in gear or with farm implement) and ensure smooth response and full power. Adjust idle screw and final rod length if necessary.
- Theory: only under dynamic load will some problems (binding under torque, governor interactions) reveal themselves; final tuning matches static adjustment to real operation.

12) Final safety checks
- Re-check all nuts, pins, split pins, routing clearances (no contact with hot/exhaust or moving parts), and that the pedal stops are correct. Document adjustments.

How each repair step fixes common faults (brief):
- Cleaning/lubrication: removes friction that causes sticking and inconsistent response.
- Replacing worn bushings/clevises: removes slack and hysteresis so pedal motion maps accurately to throttle movement — fixes dead travel and poor throttle response.
- Straightening/replacing bent rods: restores correct geometry so full travel is preserved and linkage doesn’t bind.
- Adjusting rod length: sets correct closed and full-open positions so idle is stable and full power is available without overtravel.
- Replacing return spring/repairing stops: ensures positive return and prevents throttle floating/hunting or unintended acceleration.
- Servicing throttle spindle/carb linkage: eliminates internal binding or shaft play that undermines external linkage adjustments.

Quick checklist to confirm repair success
- Pedal has slight free-play, then smooth progressive movement.
- Throttle returns briskly to idle when released.
- Full pedal equals full throttle without hitting beyond stops.
- No binding or rubbing along the routing; all split pins/locks fitted.

Done.
rteeqp73

### Suspension Arm Repair on a Massey Ferguson TE-20 Tractor

#### Overview

The suspension system on a tractor, including the Massey Ferguson TE-20, plays a crucial role in maintaining stability and comfort while driving. The suspension arms (or linkages) connect the wheels to the tractor body, allowing for controlled movement and absorbing shocks from uneven terrain. When these arms become worn or damaged, it can lead to poor handling, excessive wear on tires, and instability.

### Components of the Suspension System

1. **Suspension Arms**: These are metal arms that connect the axle to the tractor frame. They pivot to allow the wheel to move up and down while keeping the tractor stable.

2. **Bushings**: These are rubber or polyurethane components that fit between the suspension arm and the pivot points. They absorb vibrations and allow for smoother movement.

3. **Bolts and Nuts**: These fasteners secure the suspension arms to the chassis and axle. They need to be strong to withstand the forces during operation.

4. **Shock Absorbers**: These dampen the oscillations caused by the suspension system, providing a smoother ride.

5. **Wheel Axle**: The axle connects the wheel to the rest of the suspension system and helps distribute the weight of the tractor.

### Why Repair is Needed

Over time, components of the suspension system can wear out due to:

- **Fatigue**: Repeated stress can cause metal fatigue in suspension arms.
- **Corrosion**: Exposure to moisture and dirt can lead to rust, weakening the structure.
- **Worn Bushings**: Old or damaged bushings can cause excessive play in the suspension, leading to a rough ride and uneven tire wear.

### Theory Behind Suspension Function

Think of the suspension system like a pair of shock absorbers on a bicycle. The arms and bushings allow the wheels to move independently, absorbing bumps and dips in the road. This keeps the tractor stable, allowing for better traction and control.

### What Can Go Wrong

- **Worn Bushings**: Causes noise and instability.
- **Bent or Broken Arms**: Leads to misalignment, affecting steering and tire wear.
- **Loose Bolts**: Can lead to complete failure of the suspension system.

### Tools and Materials Needed

- Wrench set
- Socket set
- Torque wrench
- Hammer
- Jack and jack stands
- Replacement suspension arms or bushings
- Lubricant (e.g., grease)
- Safety goggles and gloves

### Detailed Steps for Suspension Arm Repair

1. **Preparation**:
- **Safety First**: Wear safety goggles and gloves.
- **Work Area**: Ensure the tractor is on a flat surface and secure.

2. **Lift the Tractor**:
- Use a jack to lift the front of the tractor.
- Secure it with jack stands to prevent it from falling.

3. **Remove the Wheel**:
- Use a wrench to loosen the lug nuts on the wheel.
- Remove the wheel to access the suspension arm.

4. **Inspect the Suspension Arm**:
- Look for bends, cracks, or excessive rust.
- Check the bushings for wear; they should not be cracked or split.

5. **Remove the Old Suspension Arm**:
- Locate the bolts securing the suspension arm to the chassis and axle.
- Use a socket wrench to remove these bolts. If they are stuck, gently tap them with a hammer.
- Carefully detach the suspension arm from its mount.

6. **Install the New Suspension Arm**:
- Align the new suspension arm with the mounting points.
- Insert the bolts and hand-tighten them first.

7. **Replace Bushings** (if applicable):
- If the bushings are worn, remove them from the old arm and install new ones in the new arm.
- Lubricate the new bushings lightly before installation.

8. **Tighten the Bolts**:
- Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. This ensures they are secure without being over-tightened.

9. **Reattach the Wheel**:
- Replace the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the tractor and fully tighten the lug nuts with a wrench in a crisscross pattern.

10. **Test Drive**:
- Carefully drive the tractor at low speed to test the suspension.
- Listen for unusual noises and check for proper handling.

### Conclusion

Repairing the suspension arm on a Massey Ferguson TE-20 is essential for maintaining stability and safe operation. By understanding the components and following the repair steps carefully, even a beginner mechanic can successfully perform this task. Always prioritize safety and consult the tractor's manual for specific torque specifications and details.
rteeqp73

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rteeqp73