The colloquial term "Ferguson 28" is sometimes used in Australia and New Zealand for later models of the TE-20 including the petrol TEA-20 and diesel TEF-20.[citation needed] "Ferguson 28" has never been an official tractor model designation. Initially the TE20 had the 'Continental' Z120 23HP engine, as did the Detroit-built TO20 introduced a year later. The 80 mm bore 'Standard' petrol engine was phased in in mid-1947 as the TEA-20, approximately 3,000 of the 20,500 tractors built to 31 December 1947 being TEA-20s. Subsequent to the introduction of the 85 mm bore TED-20 in April 1949, the petrol engine was also made with an 85 mm bore, which increased its power to just over 28 hp. The term "Fergie 28" refers to the nominal horsepower of the later range of tractors. To benefit from the reputation of the later models in the used tractor market, the 23HP TE-20 is often advertised simply as TE-20; only very rarely is it referred to in Australia as a "Ferguson 23". In North America the 'Standard' petrol-engined TEA-20s with the 85 mm bore were known and advertised as TE-2085s.

### Tools Needed:
1. **Wrench Set** (adjustable or socket)
2. **Screwdriver Set** (flathead and Phillips)
3. **Rags or Shop Towels**
4. **Fuel Container or Pan** (to catch fuel)
5. **Safety Glasses**
6. **Gloves** (nitrile recommended)
7. **Replacement Fuel Filter** (check specifications for TE-20)
8. **Funnel** (optional, for refueling)

### Safety Precautions:
1. **Work in a well-ventilated area** to avoid inhaling fumes.
2. **Wear safety glasses and gloves** to protect your eyes and hands from fuel.
3. **Ensure the tractor is turned off**, and the key is removed.
4. **Allow the engine to cool** before starting work.
5. **Have a fire extinguisher nearby** in case of fuel ignition.

### Step-by-Step Procedure:

1. **Prepare the Work Area:**
- Move the tractor to a flat, stable surface.
- Gather all tools and materials.

2. **Relieve Fuel Pressure:**
- Locate the fuel tank cap and remove it to relieve any pressure in the system.

3. **Disconnect the Battery:**
- Remove the negative terminal from the battery to prevent any electrical issues.

4. **Locate the Fuel Filter:**
- Identify the fuel filter on the engine. It is typically mounted on the side of the engine block.

5. **Place Fuel Container:**
- Position a fuel container or pan under the fuel filter to catch any spilled fuel.

6. **Remove the Fuel Filter:**
- Using the appropriate wrench, carefully unscrew the bolts or fittings holding the fuel filter in place.
- Be prepared for fuel to spill out; keep rags handy to wipe excess fuel.

7. **Install the New Fuel Filter:**
- Take the new fuel filter and compare it with the old one to ensure it’s the correct part.
- Apply a small amount of clean fuel to the rubber O-ring on the new filter to ensure a good seal.
- Screw the new fuel filter into place by hand first, then tighten it securely with the wrench.

8. **Reconnect Fuel Lines:**
- If the fuel lines were disconnected, reattach them securely to the new filter.

9. **Reattach the Battery:**
- Reconnect the negative terminal to the battery.

10. **Check for Leaks:**
- Turn the fuel tap back on and check for any fuel leaks around the new filter. If leaks are found, tighten connections as necessary.

11. **Test the Engine:**
- Start the tractor and let it run for a few minutes. Observe for any leaks and ensure the engine runs smoothly.

12. **Dispose of Old Filter:**
- Properly dispose of the old fuel filter and any spilled fuel according to local regulations.

### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Over-tightening** the new fuel filter can damage the O-ring and cause leaks.
- **Forgetting to relieve fuel pressure** before removing the filter can lead to spills and safety hazards.
- **Not checking fuel lines** for wear or damage when reinstalling can lead to future issues.
- **Using incorrect fuel filter** can result in poor engine performance.

### Replacement Parts:
- Ensure you have the correct fuel filter for the Massey Ferguson TE-20. Consult the owner’s manual or parts catalog for specifications.

### Conclusion:
Follow these steps carefully, and you will successfully replace the fuel filter on a Massey Ferguson 1949 TE-20 tractor. Always prioritize safety and ensure proper disposal of materials.
rteeqp73

### Intake Manifold Cleaning on Massey Ferguson 1949 TE-20 Tractor

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Basic Hand Tools**:
- Socket set (ratchet and extensions)
- Wrenches
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
2. **Cleaning Supplies**:
- Carburetor cleaner or intake manifold cleaner
- Soft brush (toothbrush works)
- Clean rags or paper towels
3. **Gasket Scraper**:
- Plastic scraper or gasket scraper
4. **Safety Gear**:
- Gloves (rubber or nitrile)
- Safety goggles
- Dust mask

#### Safety Precautions:
- Ensure the tractor is off and cool before starting.
- Disconnect the battery to prevent accidental starts.
- Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes.
- Wear gloves and goggles to protect from chemicals and debris.

#### Step-by-Step Cleaning Process:

1. **Preparation**:
- Park the tractor on a flat, stable surface.
- Disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal.
- Remove any engine covers or components obstructing access to the intake manifold.

2. **Remove the Intake Manifold**:
- Using the socket set, remove the bolts securing the intake manifold. Start from the center and work outward in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping.
- Carefully detach any connected components (like air hoses or throttle cables) as you remove the manifold.
- Lift the manifold off and set it aside on a clean surface.

3. **Inspect the Manifold**:
- Check for cracks, warping, or damage. If any are found, consider replacing the manifold.
- If the gasket is damaged, replace it with a new one.

4. **Cleaning the Manifold**:
- Spray the inside of the intake manifold with carburetor cleaner.
- Use a soft brush to scrub away carbon buildup and deposits.
- Wipe down the surfaces with a clean rag or paper towels.
- Use a gasket scraper to carefully remove any old gasket material from the mating surfaces.

5. **Cleaning the Mounting Surface**:
- Inspect the engine block where the manifold mounts. Clean this surface with a scraper and cloth to ensure a good seal with the new gasket.
- Remove any debris or old gasket material carefully.

6. **Reinstallation**:
- Place the new gasket onto the engine block.
- Position the intake manifold back onto the engine, ensuring all ports align correctly.
- Hand-tighten the bolts initially, then use a torque wrench to tighten them to the manufacturer’s specifications in the correct sequence (usually a crisscross pattern).

7. **Reconnect Components**:
- Reattach any hoses, cables, or components that were disconnected.
- Ensure all connections are secure.

8. **Reconnect the Battery**:
- Reattach the negative terminal of the battery.

9. **Final Checks**:
- Start the tractor and let it idle. Check for any leaks around the intake manifold.
- Listen for unusual sounds that may indicate a problem.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Improper Torque**: Not using a torque wrench can lead to leaks or damage. Always follow the manufacturer’s specs for torque settings.
- **Ignoring Gasket Condition**: Always replace gaskets when cleaning the intake manifold.
- **Debris Falling Into Engine**: Be cautious of dropping tools or debris into the engine while working.
- **Inadequate Cleaning**: Ensure all carbon buildup is removed for optimal performance.

By following these steps carefully, you will effectively clean the intake manifold of a Massey Ferguson 1949 TE-20 tractor, ensuring better engine performance and longevity.
rteeqp73

Safety first (why): prevent crushing, fire, electrical short and injury. Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake, stop engine and remove key, wear eye/hand protection. Support the tractor securely — jacks alone are not acceptable.

Ordered procedure with the theory behind each step (do each step in order):

1) Prep and inspection
- What to do: Clean area around the anti‑roll bar, jack up the front until the front axle is unloaded and support the tractor on solid stands under the axle or frame. Put a second support under the axle so you can control axle movement. Remove any belly/guards that block access.
- Why: You need access and to remove load from the bar so fasteners and bushings can be removed safely. Inspect to confirm failure: missing/broken bar, cracked welds, worn or flattened bushings, loose brackets, broken end links, or bent bar.

2) Mark location and orientation
- What to do: Mark the bar orientation, bracket positions and relative positions of end links with paint or scribe lines.
- Why: Anti‑roll bars are often indexed; keeping the original alignment avoids changing ride height or preloading new bushings.

3) Relieve load and support the axle
- What to do: Lower the axle onto a block or second jack so the bar is not tensioned, but keep enough support to prevent sudden drop when links are disconnected.
- Why: Prevents sudden movement that can damage threads, break studs, or injure you. The bar can be under preload; safe support controls that energy.

4) Remove end links and mounting hardware (in order)
- What to do: Remove cotter pins, split pins or grease caps, then unbolt the end links from the bar and from the axle/frame. Next remove the mounting bracket bolts that clamp bushings to the frame.
- Why: End links connect the bar to the axle/frame. Removing them frees the bar so it can be taken out and lets you replace worn bushings and hardware. Remove in a controlled order to avoid binding.

5) Remove the anti‑roll bar assembly
- What to do: Slide the bar out of the clamps/bushings or unbolt the center pivot if fitted. If bushings are rusted, pry gently or use penetrating oil; protect surrounding components.
- Why: The bar is usually removable once links and clamps are free. Removing it allows inspection of the bar and bushing housings and replacement with a new bar or new bushings.

6) Inspect mating parts and replace consumables
- What to do: Inspect brackets, clamps, bolts/studs, bush housings and U‑bolts for corrosion, ovalization or damage. Replace bushings, clamps and any bent or stretched fasteners. If using polyurethane bushings, check fit; use sleeves if required.
- Why: Worn bushings and damaged clamps are the common cause of noise and play. Replacing these restores correct lateral stiffness and limits unwanted relative motion.

7) Fit new bushings to the new/original bar
- What to do: Install new bushings (and sleeves if applicable) onto the bar. Lightly grease bushing contact surfaces if recommended (rubber often uses minimal grease; poly uses specific grease). Do not overstuff clamps.
- Why: Bushings isolate vibration and permit controlled rotational movement of the bar. Proper lubrication and fit prevent squeak and premature wear.

8) Reinstall the bar into brackets loosely
- What to do: Position the bar into the frame brackets and loosely fit the clamp plates and bolts. Attach end links to the bar but leave all fasteners finger‑tight.
- Why: Leaving everything loose lets the suspension settle to its natural position so the bushings sit without preload and align correctly when tightened.

9) Set axle height and torque fasteners in sequence
- What to do: Lower the axle to normal ride height (remove the axle support jack/block). With the tractor supported at ride height, torque the bracket bolts and link nuts to the proper torque. If you don’t have exact specs, tighten to a firm, specified torque from a TE‑20 manual — avoid over‑tightening that compresses or distorts bushings.
- Why: Torquing at ride height ensures bushings are clamped with the suspension under normal load so the bar geometry is correct and bushings aren’t preloaded or twisted, which would cause premature failure or handling faults.

10) Secure cotter pins/locking devices and grease fittings
- What to do: Fit new cotter pins or locking devices, grease any zerks on links/bushings as specified, and recheck all fasteners.
- Why: Locking hardware prevents nuts from backing off under vibration. Proper lubrication reduces friction and wear.

11) Functional check and road test
- What to do: With wheels chocked, move the steering through full lock, listen for binding or clunks. Lower tractor and do a low‑speed test turn and bump test — check for noise, excessive body roll or looseness.
- Why: Confirms correct installation and that no interference or binding exists. The anti‑roll bar should transfer sideways load between sides with controlled stiffness and no play.

Theory — what the anti‑roll bar does and how replacement fixes faults
- Function: The anti‑roll (sway) bar is a torsional spring that connects the left and right sides of the front suspension. When one wheel moves relative to the chassis (e.g., during cornering), the bar twists and transfers torque to the opposite side, resisting roll and keeping the chassis more level.
- Symptoms of failure: Broken bar or worn/loose bushings and links let one side move independently; results are excessive body lean in turns, clunks/knocks over bumps, uneven tire loading/wear, possible wheel lift, and reduced steering predictability.
- How replacement fixes it: Replacing a damaged bar restores its torsional stiffness (re‑establishes the mechanical link between sides). Replacing worn bushings/clamps restores correct lateral location and removes free play so forces pass through the bar rather than through loose hardware or metal‑on‑metal contact. Correct mounting at ride height prevents preloading and ensures the bar twists evenly instead of binding, restoring proper roll resistance and handling.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Don’t tighten bushing clamps with the axle unloaded; that preloads and shortens bushing life.
- Don’t weld or bend a fractured bar unless done by a qualified shop — welding can change steel properties and create weak points.
- Don’t reuse severely corroded U‑bolts or threads; they may fail.
- Use the proper bushing material for the tractor’s use (rubber for quieter operation, polyurethane for firmer response but may transmit more noise/vibration).

Final note
- For exact torque values, part numbers and illustrations, consult the Massey Ferguson TE‑20 workshop manual. Follow its torque specs when available.
rteeqp73