- Safety first
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, stop engine, remove key and disconnect battery negative cable to avoid accidental starting.
- Chock wheels front and rear to prevent rolling.
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses, and old clothes. Gear oil is messy and carcinogenic on prolonged exposure.
- Work with adequate ventilation and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

- Tools you need (basic tools plus why and how to use each)
- Large drain pan (10–15 L / 2–4 gallons)
- Description: shallow steel or plastic pan with a wide mouth to catch oil.
- How to use: slide it under the gearbox drain plug before loosening the plug; oil will flow directly into it.
- Basic spanner/socket set (metric and imperial mix, 8–19 mm)
- Description: combination wrenches and a ratchet with common sockets.
- How to use: use the correctly sized wrench/socket to loosen/tighten the drain and fill plugs. Use breaker bar if bolt is stuck. Avoid rounding bolt heads by using the right size and pulling steady force.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: common screwdrivers for prying or removing small covers.
- How to use: use flat screwdriver carefully to remove small filler/dipstick plugs or pry off covers; protect surfaces with a rag.
- Funnel and long flexible hose or hand pump
- Description: funnel with a long spout or a hand-operated fluid transfer pump.
- How to use: funnel to pour new gear oil into the fill hole; hand pump is useful if fill hole is awkward or at an angle.
- Torque wrench (or a good feel for snug + manufacturer torque spec)
- Description: adjustable torque wrench to tighten plugs to spec.
- How to use: set to the torque spec (consult manual); tighten drain/fill plugs to that value to avoid stripping or overtightening.
- Clean rags and solvent/degreaser
- Description: lint-free rags and a mild degreaser.
- How to use: wipe areas clean before opening plugs; clean spilled oil immediately to prevent slips and contamination.
- Wire brush / gasket scraper
- Description: small metal brush or scraper for cleaning mating surfaces.
- How to use: remove old gasket material or rust from the fill/drain plug threads and mating surfaces before reinstalling.
- Rubber mallet (optional)
- Description: soft-headed hammer to tap stubborn parts without damaging.
- How to use: gently tap a plug or cover that’s stuck; avoid banging on delicate parts.
- Jack and axle stands (optional if access is limited)
- Description: hydraulic jack and stable stands to raise tractor safely.
- How to use: lift only from safe jacking points; always support with stands, never rely on jack alone.
- Oil-absorbent pads or kitty litter (for spill control)
- Description: granular material or pads to absorb drips.
- How to use: place under the work area and clean up spills immediately.
- Parts you should have on hand (recommended)
- New crush washer(s) or copper washer for drain plug
- Why: old washer often crushed and leaks when reused.
- How to use: remove old washer, fit new washer under plug, tighten to spec.
- Replacement fill and drain plug gaskets or O-rings (if rubber)
- Why: prevent leaks at threads or plug face.
- Small tube of thread sealant or anti-seize (engine oil safe)
- Why: helps prevent galling and may seal slightly porous threads—use sparingly and only a sealant rated for oil service.
- Rags and new gloves

- Fluids and specifications (important—verify with manual)
- Always check the Massey Ferguson TE-20 operator or service manual for the exact specification and capacity for the transmission (many older tractors use SAE 90 gear oil or a specified tractor hydraulic/transmission oil). If you cannot check the manual, a commonly used temporary choice on old gearboxes is straight gear oil (e.g., SAE 90), but confirm before filling.
- Typical fill method: fill until oil reaches the level check hole or until it begins to drip from the level plug. Do not overfill.

- Step-by-step procedure (basic tools, beginner-friendly)
- Prepare the tractor
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative, let engine and drivetrain cool if recently used (warm oil drains easier but be careful of hot surfaces).
- Clean around fill and drain plugs so dirt doesn't enter the gearbox when you open them.
- Locate drain and fill/level plugs
- Drain plug: usually at the bottom of the gearbox case; position drain pan under it.
- Fill/level plug: typically on the side of the gearbox above the bottom; this determines correct oil level (oil should be at the bottom edge of the fill hole).
- Drain the old oil
- Loosen the drain plug with the correct wrench; remove slowly to let oil flow; let drain completely (10–30 minutes depending on temperature).
- Inspect oil in the pan: look for heavy metal particles, milky appearance (water contamination), or a burnt smell. Heavy metal flakes or a metallic sludge is a sign of internal wear—see parts replacement section below.
- Remove/inspect fill/level plug
- With oil drained, remove the fill/level plug to allow air in and allow faster drainage and later filling; inspect the plug and washer.
- Clean plug threads and mating surfaces
- Use wire brush and rags to clean; replace crush washer if fitted.
- Reinstall drain plug
- Fit new washer, thread plug by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten to snug or to torque spec if available.
- Fill with new oil
- Place funnel in the fill hole or use the hand pump. Add new gear oil slowly.
- Fill until oil starts to seep out of the level/fill hole, or until the level reaches the correct mark/dipstick. Stop when you see oil at that hole; this is the correct level.
- Run and recheck
- Reconnect battery if disconnected. Start the engine briefly and move the gearbox through gears (with brakes on and clutch operation as appropriate) to allow oil to distribute.
- Shut off engine, wait a minute for oil to settle, then recheck the level and top up if necessary.
- Clean up and dispose of old oil
- Wipe off spills, tighten plugs securely, and properly dispose of used oil and contaminated rags at a recycling center. Do not pour oil down drains.

- Parts that commonly need replacement and why
- Drain plug crush/copper washer
- Why: these washers compress to seal; they deform and lose sealing ability each time removed. Replacement prevents slow leaks.
- Fill/level plug O-ring or gasket
- Why: prevents leaks at the fill hole. Many are inexpensive and easy to change.
- Input/output shaft seals (if you find external leaks)
- Why: oil leaks at the gearbox shaft seals allow loss of lubricant and contamination; seals harden with age and should be replaced if leaking.
- Replacement note: this can be intermediate-level work—may require removal of shaft covers or bearings; consider a shop if unsure.
- Gasket for gearbox cover/intermediate plate (if you remove cover)
- Why: sealed surfaces use gaskets that deteriorate; replace to prevent leaks.
- Bearings or gears (only if metal particles or loud noises)
- Why: heavy metal in drained oil or grinding noises indicate internal wear. These are major repairs and usually require a professional rebuild or specialist parts (bearings, gears, synchros if present).
- Filter (if your variant has an in-line or suction filter)
- Why: some tractors have small strainers/filters; clean or replace to maintain flow and reduce contamination.

- How to judge if you should stop and seek professional help
- Drained oil contains lots of shiny metal flakes or a metallic sheen.
- Gearbox makes grinding, knocking, or very loud whine noises during a quick run-through of gears.
- Oil level drops quickly after a correct fill (significant leak).
- You must remove large external components or the seal/shaft work is beyond your tools/comfort level.
- In any of these cases, stop and consult a qualified tractor mechanic.

- Quick troubleshooting and tips
- If a plug is stuck: apply penetrating oil, let soak several hours, use the correct-size tool and steady force. Heat around the plug (carefully) can help break corrosion—avoid flare or open flame.
- If you cannot access the fill hole easily, use a hand pump to avoid spills.
- Keep a small notebook: record date, hours on tractor, oil brand and quantity for future maintenance.
- Dispose of used oil responsibly at recycling centers — illegal dumping harms the environment.

- Final checklist before finishing
- Drain plug and fill plug reinstalled and tightened to spec or snug.
- No visible leaks after run-through.
- Old oil and contaminated materials disposed of properly.
- New washer/gaskets installed where applicable.

- Closing safety reminder
- Gearbox work is straightforward for a simple drain-and-fill, but internal repairs are complex and potentially dangerous if attempted without experience. If you encounter heavy contamination, leaks that won’t stop, or internal damage signs, stop and have a professional inspect and repair.

No further questions asked.
rteeqp73

- **Tools Required**:
- **Wrench Set**: A set of combination wrenches (both open-end and box-end) is necessary for removing bolts and nuts. You'll need various sizes, typically from 7/16" to 5/8".
- **Socket Set**: A socket wrench set with a ratchet and sockets in the same sizes as the wrenches will make it easier to remove and install bolts quickly.
- **Screwdriver**: A flathead screwdriver for prying off any clips or covers that might obstruct the radiator.
- **Pliers**: Needle-nose pliers can help grip small parts or remove clamps that hold hoses.
- **Drain Pan**: To catch any coolant that drains from the radiator.
- **Coolant**: Replacement coolant if you need to refill after the work is done.
- **Gasket Maker or RTV Sealant**: If you're replacing the radiator or its components, a sealant may be needed for a watertight fit.
- **New Radiator Hose**: If the hose is damaged or old, replacement is necessary to prevent leaks.
- **Replacement Radiator**: If the radiator itself is damaged (e.g., leaks, corrosion), a new one will be required.

- **Removing the Radiator**:
- **Park the Tractor**: Ensure the tractor is on a level surface and the engine is off and cool.
- **Drain Coolant**: Place a drain pan under the radiator and open the drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to let the coolant flow out.
- **Remove the Radiator Hoses**: Use pliers to loosen and remove the clamps holding the hoses to the radiator. Pull the hoses off carefully.
- **Unbolt the Radiator**: Use a wrench or socket to remove the bolts that secure the radiator to the frame. Keep the bolts in a safe place for reinstallation.
- **Lift Out the Radiator**: Carefully lift the radiator out of its mounting position.

- **Inspecting for Damage**:
- **Check the Radiator**: Look for cracks, corrosion, or leaks. If found, a replacement radiator is necessary.
- **Inspect Hoses**: Check both upper and lower hoses for any signs of wear, cracks, or leaks. Replace if necessary.

- **Installing the New or Repaired Radiator**:
- **Position the New Radiator**: Place the new or repaired radiator back into the mounting brackets.
- **Bolt the Radiator**: Secure it back into position using the original bolts. Tighten them to ensure a firm fit but don’t overtighten to avoid stripping threads.
- **Reconnect Hoses**: Slide the hoses back onto the radiator and secure them with the clamps using pliers.

- **Refilling Coolant**:
- **Fill the Radiator**: Pour new coolant into the radiator until full.
- **Check the System**: Start the tractor and let it run for a few minutes. Check for leaks around the hoses and radiator.

- **Final Checks**:
- **Monitor Temperature**: Keep an eye on the temperature gauge to ensure the system is functioning correctly.
- **Dispose of Old Coolant**: Properly dispose of the old coolant according to local regulations.

By following these steps, you can successfully remove and replace the radiator on a Massey Ferguson 1947 TE-20 tractor.
rteeqp73

- **Safety First**
- **Safety Goggles**: Protect your eyes from debris.
- **Gloves**: Wear gloves to protect your hands from oil and sharp edges.

- **Tools Required**
- **Socket Set**: Used for removing bolts and nuts. A ratchet handle will allow you to turn the sockets easily. Make sure to have various sizes, typically 10mm to 19mm.
- **Wrench Set**: Useful for tightening or loosening nuts in tight spaces where a socket won't fit.
- **Screwdriver Set**: Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers will help in removing any screws that may be present in the assembly.
- **Pry Bar**: A small pry bar can help remove the old seal from its housing if it’s stuck.
- **Seal Puller**: This specialized tool is designed to remove seals without damaging the surrounding area.
- **Torque Wrench**: Ensures that bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- **Shop Rag or Paper Towels**: For cleaning up oil spills and wiping hands.

- **Replacement Parts**
- **Output Shaft Seal**: This is the part you’ll be replacing. It prevents oil from leaking out of the transmission. Make sure to get the exact part that fits your Massey Ferguson 1947 TE-20.
- **Gasket or O-Ring**: Depending on the assembly, you may also need a new gasket or O-ring to prevent leaks.

- **Preparation**
- **Drain Oil**: Place a drain pan under the tractor and remove the drain plug from the transmission to let the oil out.
- **Remove PTO Shaft (if applicable)**: If your TE-20 has a Power Take-Off (PTO), you may need to remove the PTO shaft to access the output shaft seal.

- **Accessing the Seal**
- **Locate the Output Shaft**: Look for the shaft where it exits the transmission housing.
- **Remove Bolts**: Use the socket set to remove any bolts securing the cover or housing around the output shaft. Keep track of each bolt and where it belongs.

- **Removing the Old Seal**
- **Use Seal Puller**: Insert the seal puller behind the old seal and gently pry it out. Be careful not to damage the housing.
- **Inspect the Area**: Check the output shaft for any damage or wear. If the shaft is damaged, it might require replacement.

- **Installing the New Seal**
- **Clean the Area**: Wipe the seal housing and output shaft with a clean rag to remove debris.
- **Lubricate the New Seal**: Apply a thin layer of oil to the lip of the new output shaft seal. This helps it slide into place more easily.
- **Insert the New Seal**: Use your hands or a flat surface to press the new seal into place. Ensure it sits flush with the housing. A flat piece of wood can help gently tap it in without damaging it.

- **Reassembly**
- **Reattach Housing/Cover**: Put any covers or housings back in place and secure them with bolts. Use a torque wrench to tighten them to the specified torque settings (check the manual for the correct torque).
- **Reinstall PTO Shaft (if applicable)**: If you removed a PTO shaft, reinstall it now.

- **Refill Oil**
- **Replace Drain Plug**: Reinstall the drain plug after all oil has drained.
- **Refill Transmission Oil**: Use the appropriate oil for your tractor and fill it according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

- **Final Check**
- **Inspect for Leaks**: Start the tractor and let it run for a few minutes. Check around the new seal for any signs of oil leaking.
- **Clean Up**: Dispose of old oil and seal properly, and clean up any spills.

Following these steps should help you successfully replace the output shaft seal on your Massey Ferguson 1947 TE-20 tractor. Always refer to a service manual for specific details and torque specifications.
rteeqp73