- Safety first
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, stop engine, remove key and disconnect battery negative cable to avoid accidental starting.
- Chock wheels front and rear to prevent rolling.
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses, and old clothes. Gear oil is messy and carcinogenic on prolonged exposure.
- Work with adequate ventilation and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

- Tools you need (basic tools plus why and how to use each)
- Large drain pan (10–15 L / 2–4 gallons)
- Description: shallow steel or plastic pan with a wide mouth to catch oil.
- How to use: slide it under the gearbox drain plug before loosening the plug; oil will flow directly into it.
- Basic spanner/socket set (metric and imperial mix, 8–19 mm)
- Description: combination wrenches and a ratchet with common sockets.
- How to use: use the correctly sized wrench/socket to loosen/tighten the drain and fill plugs. Use breaker bar if bolt is stuck. Avoid rounding bolt heads by using the right size and pulling steady force.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: common screwdrivers for prying or removing small covers.
- How to use: use flat screwdriver carefully to remove small filler/dipstick plugs or pry off covers; protect surfaces with a rag.
- Funnel and long flexible hose or hand pump
- Description: funnel with a long spout or a hand-operated fluid transfer pump.
- How to use: funnel to pour new gear oil into the fill hole; hand pump is useful if fill hole is awkward or at an angle.
- Torque wrench (or a good feel for snug + manufacturer torque spec)
- Description: adjustable torque wrench to tighten plugs to spec.
- How to use: set to the torque spec (consult manual); tighten drain/fill plugs to that value to avoid stripping or overtightening.
- Clean rags and solvent/degreaser
- Description: lint-free rags and a mild degreaser.
- How to use: wipe areas clean before opening plugs; clean spilled oil immediately to prevent slips and contamination.
- Wire brush / gasket scraper
- Description: small metal brush or scraper for cleaning mating surfaces.
- How to use: remove old gasket material or rust from the fill/drain plug threads and mating surfaces before reinstalling.
- Rubber mallet (optional)
- Description: soft-headed hammer to tap stubborn parts without damaging.
- How to use: gently tap a plug or cover that’s stuck; avoid banging on delicate parts.
- Jack and axle stands (optional if access is limited)
- Description: hydraulic jack and stable stands to raise tractor safely.
- How to use: lift only from safe jacking points; always support with stands, never rely on jack alone.
- Oil-absorbent pads or kitty litter (for spill control)
- Description: granular material or pads to absorb drips.
- How to use: place under the work area and clean up spills immediately.
- Parts you should have on hand (recommended)
- New crush washer(s) or copper washer for drain plug
- Why: old washer often crushed and leaks when reused.
- How to use: remove old washer, fit new washer under plug, tighten to spec.
- Replacement fill and drain plug gaskets or O-rings (if rubber)
- Why: prevent leaks at threads or plug face.
- Small tube of thread sealant or anti-seize (engine oil safe)
- Why: helps prevent galling and may seal slightly porous threads—use sparingly and only a sealant rated for oil service.
- Rags and new gloves

- Fluids and specifications (important—verify with manual)
- Always check the Massey Ferguson TE-20 operator or service manual for the exact specification and capacity for the transmission (many older tractors use SAE 90 gear oil or a specified tractor hydraulic/transmission oil). If you cannot check the manual, a commonly used temporary choice on old gearboxes is straight gear oil (e.g., SAE 90), but confirm before filling.
- Typical fill method: fill until oil reaches the level check hole or until it begins to drip from the level plug. Do not overfill.

- Step-by-step procedure (basic tools, beginner-friendly)
- Prepare the tractor
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative, let engine and drivetrain cool if recently used (warm oil drains easier but be careful of hot surfaces).
- Clean around fill and drain plugs so dirt doesn't enter the gearbox when you open them.
- Locate drain and fill/level plugs
- Drain plug: usually at the bottom of the gearbox case; position drain pan under it.
- Fill/level plug: typically on the side of the gearbox above the bottom; this determines correct oil level (oil should be at the bottom edge of the fill hole).
- Drain the old oil
- Loosen the drain plug with the correct wrench; remove slowly to let oil flow; let drain completely (10–30 minutes depending on temperature).
- Inspect oil in the pan: look for heavy metal particles, milky appearance (water contamination), or a burnt smell. Heavy metal flakes or a metallic sludge is a sign of internal wear—see parts replacement section below.
- Remove/inspect fill/level plug
- With oil drained, remove the fill/level plug to allow air in and allow faster drainage and later filling; inspect the plug and washer.
- Clean plug threads and mating surfaces
- Use wire brush and rags to clean; replace crush washer if fitted.
- Reinstall drain plug
- Fit new washer, thread plug by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten to snug or to torque spec if available.
- Fill with new oil
- Place funnel in the fill hole or use the hand pump. Add new gear oil slowly.
- Fill until oil starts to seep out of the level/fill hole, or until the level reaches the correct mark/dipstick. Stop when you see oil at that hole; this is the correct level.
- Run and recheck
- Reconnect battery if disconnected. Start the engine briefly and move the gearbox through gears (with brakes on and clutch operation as appropriate) to allow oil to distribute.
- Shut off engine, wait a minute for oil to settle, then recheck the level and top up if necessary.
- Clean up and dispose of old oil
- Wipe off spills, tighten plugs securely, and properly dispose of used oil and contaminated rags at a recycling center. Do not pour oil down drains.

- Parts that commonly need replacement and why
- Drain plug crush/copper washer
- Why: these washers compress to seal; they deform and lose sealing ability each time removed. Replacement prevents slow leaks.
- Fill/level plug O-ring or gasket
- Why: prevents leaks at the fill hole. Many are inexpensive and easy to change.
- Input/output shaft seals (if you find external leaks)
- Why: oil leaks at the gearbox shaft seals allow loss of lubricant and contamination; seals harden with age and should be replaced if leaking.
- Replacement note: this can be intermediate-level work—may require removal of shaft covers or bearings; consider a shop if unsure.
- Gasket for gearbox cover/intermediate plate (if you remove cover)
- Why: sealed surfaces use gaskets that deteriorate; replace to prevent leaks.
- Bearings or gears (only if metal particles or loud noises)
- Why: heavy metal in drained oil or grinding noises indicate internal wear. These are major repairs and usually require a professional rebuild or specialist parts (bearings, gears, synchros if present).
- Filter (if your variant has an in-line or suction filter)
- Why: some tractors have small strainers/filters; clean or replace to maintain flow and reduce contamination.

- How to judge if you should stop and seek professional help
- Drained oil contains lots of shiny metal flakes or a metallic sheen.
- Gearbox makes grinding, knocking, or very loud whine noises during a quick run-through of gears.
- Oil level drops quickly after a correct fill (significant leak).
- You must remove large external components or the seal/shaft work is beyond your tools/comfort level.
- In any of these cases, stop and consult a qualified tractor mechanic.

- Quick troubleshooting and tips
- If a plug is stuck: apply penetrating oil, let soak several hours, use the correct-size tool and steady force. Heat around the plug (carefully) can help break corrosion—avoid flare or open flame.
- If you cannot access the fill hole easily, use a hand pump to avoid spills.
- Keep a small notebook: record date, hours on tractor, oil brand and quantity for future maintenance.
- Dispose of used oil responsibly at recycling centers — illegal dumping harms the environment.

- Final checklist before finishing
- Drain plug and fill plug reinstalled and tightened to spec or snug.
- No visible leaks after run-through.
- Old oil and contaminated materials disposed of properly.
- New washer/gaskets installed where applicable.

- Closing safety reminder
- Gearbox work is straightforward for a simple drain-and-fill, but internal repairs are complex and potentially dangerous if attempted without experience. If you encounter heavy contamination, leaks that won’t stop, or internal damage signs, stop and have a professional inspect and repair.

No further questions asked.
rteeqp73

- **Tools Required**:
- **Wrench Set**: A set of combination wrenches (both open-end and box-end) is necessary for removing bolts and nuts. You'll need various sizes, typically from 7/16" to 5/8".
- **Socket Set**: A socket wrench set with a ratchet and sockets in the same sizes as the wrenches will make it easier to remove and install bolts quickly.
- **Screwdriver**: A flathead screwdriver for prying off any clips or covers that might obstruct the radiator.
- **Pliers**: Needle-nose pliers can help grip small parts or remove clamps that hold hoses.
- **Drain Pan**: To catch any coolant that drains from the radiator.
- **Coolant**: Replacement coolant if you need to refill after the work is done.
- **Gasket Maker or RTV Sealant**: If you're replacing the radiator or its components, a sealant may be needed for a watertight fit.
- **New Radiator Hose**: If the hose is damaged or old, replacement is necessary to prevent leaks.
- **Replacement Radiator**: If the radiator itself is damaged (e.g., leaks, corrosion), a new one will be required.

- **Removing the Radiator**:
- **Park the Tractor**: Ensure the tractor is on a level surface and the engine is off and cool.
- **Drain Coolant**: Place a drain pan under the radiator and open the drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to let the coolant flow out.
- **Remove the Radiator Hoses**: Use pliers to loosen and remove the clamps holding the hoses to the radiator. Pull the hoses off carefully.
- **Unbolt the Radiator**: Use a wrench or socket to remove the bolts that secure the radiator to the frame. Keep the bolts in a safe place for reinstallation.
- **Lift Out the Radiator**: Carefully lift the radiator out of its mounting position.

- **Inspecting for Damage**:
- **Check the Radiator**: Look for cracks, corrosion, or leaks. If found, a replacement radiator is necessary.
- **Inspect Hoses**: Check both upper and lower hoses for any signs of wear, cracks, or leaks. Replace if necessary.

- **Installing the New or Repaired Radiator**:
- **Position the New Radiator**: Place the new or repaired radiator back into the mounting brackets.
- **Bolt the Radiator**: Secure it back into position using the original bolts. Tighten them to ensure a firm fit but don’t overtighten to avoid stripping threads.
- **Reconnect Hoses**: Slide the hoses back onto the radiator and secure them with the clamps using pliers.

- **Refilling Coolant**:
- **Fill the Radiator**: Pour new coolant into the radiator until full.
- **Check the System**: Start the tractor and let it run for a few minutes. Check for leaks around the hoses and radiator.

- **Final Checks**:
- **Monitor Temperature**: Keep an eye on the temperature gauge to ensure the system is functioning correctly.
- **Dispose of Old Coolant**: Properly dispose of the old coolant according to local regulations.

By following these steps, you can successfully remove and replace the radiator on a Massey Ferguson 1947 TE-20 tractor.
rteeqp73

- Safety first (read this):
- Work on a level surface, chock front wheels, and never rely on the tractor jack alone — use heavy timber blocks or rated jack stands under the axle housing.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, and good footwear. Differential parts are heavy and springy; get an assistant for lifting.
- Clean area to avoid slipping; keep rags and a fire extinguisher nearby when handling oil and solvents.

- Overview of what “differential service” means for a TE-20 (beginner scope):
- Basic service: drain and inspect differential oil, remove cover (or open drain), clean magnetic plugs, inspect gears and bearings visually, replace leaking seals/gasket, refill with correct gear oil.
- Full overhaul (advanced): remove carrier, replace pinion and carrier bearings, set pinion preload and ring-and-pinion backlash, replace bearings/seals/shims — requires special tools and skill. If you are a complete beginner, do the basic service and replace worn seals; send a full overhaul to a shop unless you obtain the special tools and manual.

- Essential tools (with how to use them and why they’re needed):
- Socket set (metric and imperial selection, deep and shallow): used to remove drain plug(s), cover bolts, axle/shaft fasteners. Use the correct size to avoid rounding bolts. Use breaker bar for stubborn bolts.
- Breaker bar: provides steady leverage to loosen tight bolts without damaging the socket drive; use with correct socket on bolts.
- Combination/open-end/box wrenches: for bolts where sockets don’t fit; use correct size and pull toward you for better control.
- Drain pan (large shallow): catches old gear oil and prevents spills; place under differential before opening drain or cover.
- Clean rags and brake cleaner or parts solvent: for degreasing cover, gears and magnets; use in a well-ventilated area.
- Gasket scraper or plastic putty knife: removes old gasket material from cover and housing mating surfaces; do gently to avoid gouging.
- New gasket or RTV gasket sealant: seals the differential cover on reassembly; choose a grease/gear-oil-compatible RTV if not using a paper gasket.
- Funnel and clean fill hose: to refill the differential with gear oil accurately without spilling.
- Torque wrench (appropriate range for axle hardware): needed to tighten cover and axle bolts to correct torque; prevents under/over-tightening that causes leaks or damage. If you don’t have one, borrow or rent — it’s important.
- Oil/grease-resistant gloves and eye protection: protect you from hot oil, metal chips and solvents.
- Magnetic drain plug or small magnet (optional): helps collect small metal debris; many TE-20s have a magnetic plug — clean it.
- Pry bar or large screwdriver (use carefully): to break the cover free if sealed; protect mating surfaces with a block of wood while prying.
- Hydraulic jack/engine hoist/wooden blocks or axle stands rated for tractor weight: to support the tractor and allow wheel removal or differential access safely. Use multiple supports.
- Wheel chocks: keep tractor from rolling.

- Useful/advanced tools (why they’re required and what they do):
- Bearing puller or gear puller: required if you remove axle shafts, carriers, or bearings; it extracts tight-pressed parts without damaging them.
- Hydraulic press (shop press): required to press bearings on/off pinion or carrier safely. Without a press you risk destroying bearings or shafts.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base: measures ring gear backlash precisely. Setting correct backlash is critical for gear life and smoothness.
- Torque angle gauge or very accurate torque wrench: for any critical fasteners requiring specific torque.
- Pinion depth tool / setting toolset and shim kit: used to set pinion depth and carrier shims for correct gear contact pattern. These are specific and typically included in a ring-and-pinion setup kit.
- Gear marking compound (Prussian blue or similar): checks ring-and-pinion tooth contact pattern.
- Feeler gauges and micrometer/caliper: measure shim thickness, bearing journals, and backlash tolerances.
- Replacement parts kit (bearings/seals/ring & pinion if worn): if you open the differential expecting to reuse bearings, you risk failure; kits let you replace known wear parts.
- If you don’t have these advanced tools, plan to stop at the basic service level or have a shop do the overhaul.

- Common parts that may need replacement and why:
- Differential cover gasket or RTV: usually perishable and leaks after removal; replace to ensure seal.
- Pinion seal and axle/output seals: common leak points; replace if you find oil on the housing or axle.
- Wheel/axle bearings or pinion bearings (tapered roller bearings): noisy, rough, or loose bearings require replacement to avoid catastrophic failure. Replace as a matched pair (both sides of a bearing) and the mating race.
- Carrier bearings and races: if pitted or worn, they must be replaced when servicing bearings.
- Ring & pinion gear set: replace if teeth are chipped, heavily pitted, or tooth pattern cannot be corrected by shimming — damaged gears will cause noise, loss of drive, and more damage.
- Shims and crush sleeve (if applicable on TE-20): required to set pinion preload and backlash correctly when replacing bearings/pinion.
- Fasteners: ring gear bolts and other aged bolts should be replaced if stretched or corroded; follow manufacturer guidance.

- Fluid and consumables:
- Gear oil: SAE 90 or 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil is commonly used in tractors like the TE-20. Use the grade recommended in the factory manual. Quantity varies; expect roughly 1–3 liters/quarts depending on the housing — check level hole fill method.
- RTV gasket sealant or new paper/cork gasket: for cover seal.
- Solvent/parts cleaner, shop towels and a small brush.

- Basic differential service procedure for a beginner (safe, do-able at home):
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, raise rear safely with jack and support with blocks or stands so differential is accessible and wheels can be removed if needed.
- Place drain pan under differential; remove drain plug if present or loosen cover bolts and pry cover gently to drain oil into pan.
- Allow oil to drain fully; inspect oil for metal flakes or heavy contamination (small fine particles are normal; large chunks mean internal damage).
- Remove cover completely; clean cover and mating surface with solvent and scraper; remove old gasket material.
- Inspect visible gears, bearings, races and pinion area for pitting, broken teeth, scoring, or obvious wear.
- Clean magnetic drain plug or magnet if present; remove metal slurry and check size of particles (large chunks = bad).
- Replace any obvious leaking pinion or axle seals now (you’ll need to pull the axle/shaft or pinion for seal replacement — if not comfortable, have a shop replace seals).
- Install new gasket or apply appropriate RTV to mating surface; torque cover bolts to a snug even pattern — use a torque wrench set to the manual value if available (if not, tighten evenly to prevent distortion).
- Refill with recommended gear oil through the fill hole until oil reaches the bottom of the fill plug/hole.
- Lower tractor, remove supports carefully, check for leaks after a short test run.

- When to stop and use a professional:
- If you find worn or noisy bearings, pitted gears, metal chunks in oil, or if you need to set pinion preload/backlash — stop and have a shop or experienced mechanic perform the overhaul unless you have the advanced tools and service manual. Incorrectly set backlash or preload will destroy new gears and bearings quickly.
- If you lack a press, bearing puller, dial indicator, shim kit or torque specs, do not attempt a full ring-and-pinion replacement.

- Why some tools and parts are mandatory for full overhaul (short summary):
- Press/puller: bearings are interference-fit; cannot be removed/installed safely by hammering without damaging parts.
- Dial indicator/gauge: backlash must be measured precisely; guessing will cause poor mesh and rapid failure.
- Shims/crush sleeve and pinion depth tool: gear contact pattern depends on precise pinion depth; if wrong the gears will wear quickly.
- Matched bearing/race sets and new seals: used components will fail prematurely when reassembled.

- Quick checklist to buy before starting basic service:
- Correct gear oil (SAE 90 or 80W-90 GL-5 per manual)
- New cover gasket or RTV
- Replacement drain plug washer if applicable
- Basic hand tools (sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench)
- Drain pan, rags, solvent, gloves
- Jack and rated supports or blocks
- New seals if you plan to replace leaking seals (and the tools to remove shafts if doing that)

- Final note (short):
- Basic maintenance (drain/clean/replace gasket/seals/refill) is suitable for a beginner. Full teardown, bearing replacement and ring-and-pinion setup require special tools, verified torque specs and measurement tools — if you need a full overhaul, plan to either rent tools and obtain the TE-20 service manual or have the job done by a specialist.

No yapping.
rteeqp73