The Kia Carnival is a minivan manufactured by Kia Motors, introduced
in September 1998, marketed globally under various nameplates �
prominently as the Kia Sedona � and currently in its second
generation.First generation models stay in production (e.g., in China).
Second generation models have been marketed since model year 2006 �
including as a rebadged variant in the United States, the Hyundai
Entourage for model years 2007�2009.The Kia Sedona first generation was
marketed globally, for example as the Naza Ria in Malaysia. The first
generation model is currently marketed and manufactured in particular
regions, including under a joint venture in the Chinese market with
Dongfeng Yueda Kia Automobile Company.In the United States, the very
first generation Sedona competed with the minivan segment of Toyota
Sienna, Honda Odyssey, Ford Windstar/Ford Freestar and the Chrysler
minivans � and was Kia's top-selling vehicle when it launched.With a 3.5
L V6 engine making 195 hp (145 kW) and a 4-speed automatic (later a
5-speed automated transmission), the Sedona lacked features that other
minivans had these types of as power sliding doors and power liftgate, a
fold flat 3rd row seat, navigation system, rear-view camera, and backup
sensors. Early Sedonas had been rated at 15.6 L/100 km (15.1 mpg)
(city) and 10.9 L/100 kilometer (21.6 mpg) (highway), but the numbers
improved slightly to 14.8 L/100 km (15.9 mpg) (city) and 9.6 L/100 km
(24.5 mpg) (highway) for 2005 models.
In Australia, the Kia Carnival went on sale in 1999,
with a standard 5-speed manual and 2.5 L V6 producing 177 hp (132 kW). A
4-speed automatic was optional. In 2001, it outsold the Toyota Tarago,
becoming the top-selling minivan in the nation. It was sales frontrunner
again in 2004 and 2005, when sales peaked at 5,259 units, which in
itself was a record for any minivan.In European countries is available
only with the 2.5 Rover KV6 engine 24V petrol with 163 PS and Euro 2
standard emission levean as well as the 2,9 litres turbodiesel engine
with 126 PS. From 2001 Kia Motors introduce the 2.5 KV6 Euro 3 with 150
PS and the new 2.9 CRDI common rail diesel engine with 144 PS.Shown left
is the 2005 Kia Sedona EX (US), the EX is the highest body style with
all the amenities such as interior and exterior chrome accents, interior
wood grain, leather wrapped steering wheel and gear shift knob and
alloy tires, with optional fabric appointed seating, sunroof, DVD player
and much more.In the 2007 reliability report published by 1st
generation (1999�2005) of Kia Carnival put 113th out of 113 in the 2 to
3-year-old cars category, with a defect rate of 25.1%. In the 2008
T report, 1st generation (1999�2005) of Kia Carnival placed 116th
out of 116 in the same category, with a defect price of 19.70%, and also
placed 111th out of 111 in the 4 to 5-year-old cars category, with a
defect rate of 27.60%.
According to MSN autos dependability study, 2006 Kia Sedona reliability
rated as overall, good 5/5. It rated as "Minimal Problems", and comment
as "Infrequent problems reported, all with low repair costs." MSN Autos
use Identifix for data on all automobiles.According to MyRide.com
reliability survey, The MyRide Reliability reviews are collected from
visitors and previous customers of Autobytel Inc.'s websites
(CarSmart.com, Autobytel.com and Autoweb.com) who have cars from model
year 2001 and newer via an online survey conducted by an independent
third party.The 2009 Kia Sedona's JD Power reliability score is same as
the 2009 Honda Odyssey and 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan.
Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual 1999-2006 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Download
Short summary up front
- First identify whether your Carnival/Sedona has a hydraulic power steering system or an electric power steering (EPS) system. Older Sedona/Carnival models mostly use hydraulic systems; many newer models use EPS. The troubleshooting and repair procedures differ.
- I’ll explain: how each system works (with analogies), every component, common failures, diagnostics, and clear, step‑by‑step procedures for the common hydraulic repairs (pump, hoses, rack/tie‑rod, bleeding), plus the basics for EPS diagnosis and repair approach. Follow safety steps and the factory service manual for model/year‑specific torque specs and fluid type.
Safety & preparation
- Work on a flat surface, chock rear wheels, use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Power steering fluid is slippery and messy; avoid skin contact and clean spills.
- If vehicle has EPS, disconnect the negative battery terminal (and follow the manufacturer’s anti-theft/airbag procedures) before working on steering electronics.
- Have a drip pan, rags, and a way to dispose of used fluid properly.
- Always consult the specific year/model repair manual for torque specs and fluid specification. Many Kia models use ATF (Dexron/Mercon family) for the hydraulic power steering, but confirm in the owner’s manual.
Which system do you have? Quick ID
- Hydraulic: has a small fluid reservoir under the hood marked “Power Steering,” hoses (one high‑pressure metal line, one return hose), a belt‑driven pump. Steering effort is reduced by hydraulic pressure.
- EPS (electronic): no pump or PS fluid reservoir. You’ll see an electric motor on the steering column or rack, wiring connectors, and an EPS control unit. You may see an “EPS” or “Service Power Steering” warning on the dash when there’s a problem.
How each system works (theory, analogies)
- Hydraulic power steering:
- Analogy: the pump is the heart, the fluid is the blood, hoses are arteries and veins, and the steering rack is the muscles moving the wheels.
- The engine drives a belt that turns a power steering pump. The pump pressurizes fluid and sends it via a high‑pressure hose to a valve in the steering rack (or gearbox). When you turn the wheel, the valve directs pressurized fluid to one side of a piston inside the rack, assisting the force you apply so the wheels turn easily. The fluid returns to the reservoir via the low‑pressure return hose and cooler.
- Electric power steering (EPS):
- Analogy: an electric power tool sensing your effort and adding torque to help you turn.
- A torque sensor in the steering column measures how much force you apply. A control unit calculates the assist and commands an electric motor (mounted on the column or rack) to provide torque assist. There’s no fluid or pump.
Components: what they are and what they do
- Power steering pump (hydraulic): belt‑driven unit that pressurizes fluid. Has inlet (from reservoir), outlet (high‑pressure line), and often a pressure relief valve.
- Reservoir (hydraulic): holds power steering fluid, usually with min/max marks and sometimes a filter or screen.
- High‑pressure hose/line (hydraulic): metal braided hose or hard line that carries pressurized fluid from pump to rack.
- Low‑pressure return hose (hydraulic): carries fluid back from rack to reservoir.
- Steering rack (rack and pinion) or gearbox: converts rotational motion into lateral motion to move tie rods/wheels; contains the assist valve/piston for hydraulic systems.
- Tie rods & ends: connect the rack to the steering knuckles; allow for toe adjustment and absorb lateral loads.
- Belt & pulleys: drive the pump from the engine.
- Power steering cooler (if equipped): cools fluid.
- Pressure switch/sensor: can feed the ECU or turn on a cooling fan. On hydraulic systems, used for diagnostics.
- EPS motor: electric motor providing assist.
- Torque sensor, EPS ECU, wiring/harness (EPS): electronics that measure input and deliver assist.
- Steering column universal joint & coupling: transfers rotation from wheel to rack; may include splined coupler with pinch bolt.
Common failures and symptoms
Hydraulic system:
- Symptom: whining/grinding noise when you turn — often low fluid, air in system, or failing pump bearings.
- Symptom: heavy steering (no assist) — broken drive belt, failed pump, or total loss of hydraulic pressure.
- Symptom: fluid leaking under car or under the hood — hose, hose clamp, rack seal, pump seal, or fitting failure.
- Symptom: steering play or wandering — worn inner/outer tie rod ends, worn rack teeth or mounts.
- Symptom: foam in reservoir — air entrainment from leak or loose hose.
EPS:
- Symptom: “Service Power Steering” lamp or EPS fault code — electrical problem (fuse, connector, sensor, motor) or control unit issue.
- Symptom: sudden loss of assist or intermittent assist — wiring problem, torque sensor, or motor failure.
- Symptom: abnormal noise from column/rack — bad motor bearing or mechanical binding.
Diagnosis steps (systematic)
Hydraulic:
1. Visual inspection: fluid level & color, hoses, pump area, under front subframe for drips, rack boots.
- Healthy fluid: clear/red or light amber (depending on fluid type). Burnt/dark fluid suggests overheating.
2. Check fluid level with engine off (vehicle on level ground). Note foaminess.
3. Start engine: listen for whining on turn. Smell burnt fluid.
4. With engine running, observe reservoir: bubbling indicates air. Check for external leaks by turning wheel lock‑to‑lock slowly and watching for drips.
5. Inspect belt tension and condition. If belt slips under load, pump won’t produce pressure.
6. If leak not obvious: use UV dye in fluid to find slow leaks.
7. Pressure test: attach a power‑steering pressure gauge to the high‑pressure port per service manual; compare to spec. Low pressure with good belt suggests pump issue; normal pressure but leaking or internal fault suggests rack.
8. Check for play: jack front wheels and have an assistant move wheel while you feel for lash in rack/tie rods and column.
EPS:
1. Check for diagnostic trouble codes (OBD‑II scanner that reads body/steering modules).
2. Inspect EPS wiring and connectors for corrosion/chafing.
3. Check fuses and relays for EPS circuits.
4. With scan tool, read torque sensor and motor parameters; test live data if possible.
5. If motor draws high current, or torque sensor is out of range, follow troubleshooting flow in service manual. Many EPS repairs require module replacement or dealer-level programming.
Tools & parts you'll commonly need
- Standard metric hand tools, deep sockets, ratchets.
- Torque wrench (important for steering fasteners).
- Line wrenches/flair‑nut wrench (for hydraulic high‑pressure fittings).
- Tie‑rod puller (pickle fork or ball joint separator).
- Jack and jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Drain/collection pan and funnel.
- Replacement parts: pump, hoses, rack, tie rod ends, boots, O‑rings; clamps and crush washers for hose fittings.
- Power steering fluid (manufacturer specified).
- Power steering pressure gauge (for accurate diagnosis).
- Shop manual or OEM repair instructions.
Repair: common procedures and step‑by‑step guidance
A. Replacing a power steering pump (hydraulic)
1. Preparation:
- Park car, chock wheels, raise if needed to access pump.
- Drain some fluid into a container to reduce spillage. Loosen cap.
- Loosen belt tensioner and remove accessory belt from pump.
2. Disconnect hoses:
- Place drip pan below. Use line wrench on the high‑pressure fitting and regular wrench on return hose clamp.
- Cap/plug open lines to keep dirt out.
3. Unbolt pump:
- Remove mounting bolts holding pump to bracket. Note bracket location and any spacers.
- If the pump pulley must be transferred, use a pulley puller/installer tool.
4. Transfer components:
- Move pulleys, spacers, and mounting brackets to the new pump if required by the parts arrangement.
5. Install new pump:
- Bolt pump in place to correct torque (see manual).
- Reconnect hoses using new O‑rings/crush washers where supplied. Tighten fittings snugly with line wrench.
- Reinstall belt and set correct tension.
6. Refill and bleed (see bleeding procedure below).
7. Check for leaks with engine running and steering cycled lock‑to‑lock.
8. Road test and re-check fluid level.
B. Replacing a high‑pressure hose or return hose
1. Mark routing and clamps so you can reinstall the hose the same way.
2. Place drain pan and loosen hose fittings (line wrenches for high‑pressure fitting).
3. Remove hose clamps and hoses. Inspect fittings and hard lines for damage.
4. Install new hose: use new crush washers/O‑rings if required, ensure no kinks, secure clamps.
5. Refill and bleed.
C. Replacing rack and pinion (major job)
1. Pre‑work:
- Get a wheel alignment booking set for after the job.
- Note steering column position by counting turns lock‑to‑lock or marking shaft for re‑assembly.
- Disconnect battery if instructed by manual.
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Remove outer tie rod ends from knuckles:
- Loosen jam nut, unscrew tie rod, separate with puller, count turns to get approximate toe back to initial position.
4. Disconnect steering shaft coupler:
- Remove pinch bolt or universal joint bolt at the column/rack spline. Mark orientation.
5. Disconnect hydraulic lines at rack (hydraulic) — cap them off immediately.
6. Unbolt rack from subframe/crossmember. Support rack as you remove bolts.
7. Remove rack through clearance area — may require lowering subframe or engine mount on some vehicles.
8. Install new rack:
- Reverse removal. Use new bushings or mounts as required.
- Torque mounting bolts to spec.
- Reconnect lines with new seals, torque to spec.
- Reconnect steering shaft in same orientation.
- Reinstall tie rods, set approximate toe (count turns).
9. Refill and bleed hydraulic system.
10. Perform a full wheel alignment.
D. Replacing inner/outer tie rod ends
1. Mark or count turns as you unscrew inner tie rod so you start close to previous toe setting.
2. Remove pinch nut/lock nut, separate with tie‑rod puller.
3. Screw on new tie rod end to the same approximate position, tighten jam nut, torque to spec.
4. Final alignment is required.
Bleeding/purging air from hydraulic power steering (step‑by‑step)
- Why: Air in the hydraulic system causes noise, poor assist, and foam.
Method A — simple method (works for most)
1. With vehicle secure and reservoir cap off, top fluid to the cold “FULL” mark.
2. Jack front wheels so tires are off the ground (reduces pump load) or leave on ground and keep engine idle.
3. Start engine, let idle.
4. Slowly turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times (do not hold at stops). Watch the fluid level and top as needed.
5. Observe for bubbles in the reservoir; continue until bubbling stops (~several cycles). Let engine run a few minutes to circulate fluid.
6. Shut off engine, recheck level, install cap.
7. Road test and recheck level/for leaks; repeat if slack/whine returns.
Method B — vacuum or pressure bleeding (best for complete purge)
- Use a vacuum bleeder on the reservoir or a pressure bleeder per tool instructions — this removes trapped air more reliably and faster. Follow tool and manual instructions.
Testing after repair
- With engine running, turn wheel lock‑to‑lock checking for smooth action, leaks, and noise.
- Check fluid temperature (no burnt smell). Check for foam or persistent bubbles.
- If replaced rack or tie rods, get professional alignment immediately.
- For EPS: after repairs, clear codes, and check operation with road test. Some EPS modules require calibration or dealer tools.
When to replace pump vs rack vs hoses vs entire EPS module
- Replace hoses if leaking and rest of system is healthy.
- Replace pump if pressure test shows low output or pump is noisy and no leak or belt problem exists.
- Replace rack if there is internal leak at rack seals, excessive play, or steering is erratic despite good pump pressure.
- For EPS: replace/repair electronic components only after confirming wiring, fuses, and sensors are OK. Many EPS modules/motors require programming or special steps — consider professional/ dealer for EPS module replacement.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Don’t skip bleeding — trapped air causes noise and premature wear.
- Don’t overtighten hydraulic fittings (crush washers must seat but overtightening will damage threads).
- Don’t reuse damaged O‑rings or crush washers.
- Don’t ignore a failing belt — slipping belt can mimic pump failure.
- Don’t assume a noisy steering pump is always the pump — check fluid, air, and pressure first.
When to call a pro
- You cannot find a leak after inspection.
- Steering still noisy or heavy after correct bleeding and pump/hose replacement.
- EPS faults persist after checking fuses/wiring or if module programming is required.
- Any time you’re uncomfortable removing or installing steering rack (alignment and safety-critical).
Quick troubleshooting checklist
- Whine on turn: check fluid, top up, bleed; belt condition & tension; pressure test pump.
- Leaking fluid: trace leak while turning wheel; inspect hoses, fittings, rack boots, pump seals.
- Hard steering: check belt, fluid level, pump pressure; if EPS, check fuses and codes.
- Play/wandering: check tie‑rod ends, steering rack mounts, column coupling.
End notes
- Steering is a safety system — tight tolerances and correct alignment are critical.
- Always use the correct fluid and follow torque specs for bolts. Keep records of parts replaced.
- If in doubt or if the repair requires specialty equipment (pressure gauge, pullers, alignment), consider a professional shop.
That covers the theory, components, diagnostics, and step‑by‑step procedures for the typical hydraulic power steering repairs on a Kia Carnival/Sedona plus how to approach EPS issues. Follow the factory shop manual for model/year details and torque values.
rteeqp73
### Timing Cover on a Kia Carnival/Sedona: An Overview
**Purpose of Timing Cover**:
The timing cover protects the timing chain/belt and the timing gears from dirt, debris, and oil leaks. It ensures proper timing synchronization between the engine’s crankshaft and camshaft(s), which is crucial for engine performance.
### Components Involved
1. **Timing Cover**: The outer casing that encloses the timing chain/belt and gears.
2. **Timing Chain/Belt**: Connects the crankshaft to the camshaft(s), ensuring they rotate in sync.
3. **Crankshaft**: Converts the linear motion of the pistons into rotational motion.
4. **Camshaft(s)**: Controls the opening and closing of the engine's valves.
5. **Gaskets and Seals**: Prevent oil leaks and ensure a tight seal between the timing cover and engine block.
6. **Bolts and Fasteners**: Secure the timing cover in place.
### Why Repair is Needed
**Why Timing is Important**:
The timing system ensures that the valves open and close at the correct times relative to the position of the pistons. If the timing is off, it can lead to poor engine performance, increased emissions, or even catastrophic engine damage (like valve-piston contact).
**Common Problems**:
- **Oil Leaks**: Worn gaskets or seals can lead to oil leaks, causing low oil levels and potential engine damage.
- **Noise**: A worn timing chain/belt can create noise, indicating it may need replacement.
- **Timing Issues**: If the timing cover is damaged, it can misalign the timing components, leading to timing issues.
### Steps to Replace Timing Cover
1. **Tools Needed**:
- Socket set (metric)
- Torque wrench
- Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
- Pliers
- Oil catch pan
- Gasket scraper
- Engine oil (for refilling)
2. **Preparation**:
- Disconnect the negative battery cable to avoid electrical issues.
- Drain the engine oil into an oil catch pan.
- Remove any engine components blocking access to the timing cover (e.g., serpentine belt, water pump, etc.).
3. **Remove the Timing Cover**:
- Unbolt the timing cover using the socket set. Note the location of each bolt for reassembly.
- Gently pry the timing cover away from the engine block. Be cautious of any stuck areas, as you may need to tap it lightly to break the seal.
4. **Inspect Components**:
- Check the timing chain/belt for wear or damage.
- Inspect the camshaft and crankshaft for proper alignment.
- Examine gaskets and seals for wear, replacing as necessary.
5. **Clean the Surface**:
- Use a gasket scraper to remove old gasket material from the engine block and timing cover. Ensure the surface is clean to prevent leaks.
6. **Install New Gasket**:
- Place a new gasket on the timing cover. Ensure it is aligned correctly.
7. **Reattach Timing Cover**:
- Position the timing cover back onto the engine block.
- Hand-tighten all bolts in a crisscross pattern to ensure even pressure.
- Torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (refer to the service manual).
8. **Reassemble Other Components**:
- Reinstall any components removed earlier (serpentine belt, water pump, etc.).
- Refill the engine oil.
9. **Reconnect Battery**:
- Reconnect the negative battery cable.
10. **Test Engine**:
- Start the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.
### Conclusion
By understanding how the timing cover functions and following these detailed steps, you can complete the repair effectively. Always consult the vehicle's service manual for specific torque specifications and additional details specific to your Kia Carnival/Sedona model.
rteeqp73
- **Safety Gear**
- **Safety Glasses**: Protect your eyes from debris and chemicals.
- **Gloves**: Protect your hands from sharp edges and hot components.
- **Ear Protection**: If using power tools, protect your hearing.
- **Basic Tools Needed**
- **Jack and Jack Stands**:
- **Usage**: To lift the vehicle safely for access to the exhaust system.
- **Importance**: Allows you to work underneath the vehicle without risk of it falling.
- **Wrench Set (Metric)**:
- **Usage**: To remove bolts and nuts from the exhaust components.
- **Importance**: Different sizes are needed for various bolts; typically, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm are common for exhaust systems.
- **Socket Set**:
- **Usage**: Provides a faster way to remove bolts than a wrench.
- **Importance**: Ratchet allows for quick tightening and loosening; usually, a 3/8” drive socket set will suffice.
- **Pliers**:
- **Usage**: To grip and manipulate various components, especially clamps.
- **Importance**: Useful for removing or tightening exhaust clamps that may be rusted.
- **Torque Wrench**:
- **Usage**: To ensure bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- **Importance**: Prevents over-tightening or under-tightening, which can cause leaks or damage.
- **Cutting Tool (Hacksaw or Exhaust Pipe Cutter)**:
- **Usage**: If a section of the exhaust needs to be cut out.
- **Importance**: Allows for precise cutting of old or damaged pipes.
- **Replacement Parts**:
- **Exhaust Gasket**:
- **Why Replace**: Often deteriorates over time, leading to leaks.
- **Replacement Part**: A specific gasket for your Kia Carnival/Sedona model.
- **Exhaust Pipe or Muffler**:
- **Why Replace**: If it is rusted, cracked, or damaged, it can cause noise and performance issues.
- **Replacement Part**: OEM or aftermarket parts designed for Kia Carnival/Sedona.
- **Exhaust Hangers**:
- **Why Replace**: May break or wear out, leading to vibrations and misalignment.
- **Replacement Part**: Specific hangers for your vehicle.
- **Procedure Overview**
- **Lift Vehicle**:
- Use the jack to lift the vehicle and securely place jack stands under safe points.
- **Inspect Exhaust System**:
- Look for rust, holes, or broken components. Identify what needs replacing.
- **Remove Old Exhaust Components**:
- Use the wrench or socket set to remove bolts and disconnect any hangers.
- If needed, use cutting tools to remove damaged sections.
- **Install New Components**:
- Fit new parts in place, ensuring gaskets are installed where needed.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- **Recheck Installation**:
- Ensure all connections are secure and there are no gaps.
- **Lower Vehicle**:
- Carefully remove jack stands and lower the vehicle.
- **Test Drive**:
- Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. Check for leaks under the vehicle.
- **Post-Repair Inspection**
- **Visual Check**: Inspect for any visible gaps or loose connections.
- **Sound Check**: Listen for any hissing or loud noises indicating a leak.
- **Performance Check**: Ensure the vehicle runs smoothly without any performance issues.
This guide provides a beginner-friendly approach to exhaust repair on a Kia Carnival/Sedona, ensuring you understand the tools required and the necessity for replacement parts.
rteeqp73
0 Items (Empty)
