In 1990, development of a successor to the YJ began in Chrysler's "Jeep-Truck Engineering Pre-Program" department under Bob Sheaves and TJ program director, Craig Winn. Mules based on the YJ were built from 1990 to 1993, when formal approval was given for the TJ development program at a 0 million budget. From 1991 to 1992 designers worked at the new Chrysler Technical Center, building on various design proposals. In late 1992, Michael Santoro's TJ proposal was chosen by Tom Gale, Lee Iacocca, and executive management. In May 1993, now with engineering and supplier input, Santoro's final Wrangler production design was frozen at 32 months ahead of initial assembly. Verification prototypes using production bodies were built from early 1994 and tested through late 1995. As YJ production ceased in December 1995, the last pre-production TJ examples were assembled, with start of series of production in January 1996. Unveiled on January 2, 1996, at the 1996 Detroit Auto Show as an early 1997 model year introduction (1996 model year skipped), the TJ was an evolutionary update. It later arrived in Jeep showrooms in April 1996, after 6 years of overall investment and 36 month production development phase.Instead of leaf springs, this updated Wrangler featured a modern coil-spring suspension, front and rear, based on that of the Jeep Grand Cherokee, for better ride and handling, and a return to the classic CJ's round headlamps. The engine is the same 4.0 L AMC 242 Straight-6 used in the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee. A 2.5 L AMC 150 Inline-4 engine was available on entry-level models until 2002. The 2.4 L DOHC 4-cylinder engine previously used on the Chrysler PT Cruiser replaced it for 2003.A right hand drive version of the TJ was available for export markets, and was also offered for sale to U.S. rural route postal carriers. The version offered to U.S. postal carriers was only available with an automatic transmission.

In 1998 (MY1999), the fuel tank became standard at 19 U.S. gallons (72 L; 16 imp gal) capacity. There were some changes between the 2002 and 2003 years. From 1996 to 2002, the side door mirrors were black metal framed mirrors; and from 2003 to 2006 they were plastic molded mirrors. The fit of hard and soft tops is slightly different, and the fabric and colors available changed from 2001 to 2003. In 2002 (MY2003), the 3-speed automatic transmission was replaced with a 4-speed automatic with overdrive. The overdrive can be turned off with a dash switch. The radio bezels went from a rectangle in 2002 to a rounded-edged rectangle for 2003. The sound bar inside was changed to sound pods. The interior seats also changed design, going from a rounder model to one with a distinct separation between back and headrest areas. The standard skid plate was also revised for 2003 to make room for the Rubicon's bigger NV241OR transfer case. The change from the 30/32RH to the 42RLE also gained an additional skid plate. This version of the Wrangler is also notable for being the last production vehicle to use AMC-related parts. The AMC Straight-4 engine was retired after the 2002 model year, and both the AMC Straight-6 engine and the door handles (the latter of which first appeared on AMC vehicles in the 1968 model year) were retired along with this generation in 2006. Like the YJ Wrangler, the TJ Wrangler used both the AMC passenger car door handles as well as the larger door handles off the AMC-built Jeep CJ for higher-end models.

 

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rteeqp73

Summary first (quick map)
- Purpose: restore a leaking/failing air-suspension system so the Jeep holds height and rides safely.
- Big parts: airbags, compressor, tank, valve block (solenoids), airlines & fittings, dryer/moisture trap, pressure switch/relay/fuse, height sensors/controller, mounting brackets & hardware, shocks.
- Approach: diagnose leaks/electrical, relieve pressure and support vehicle, replace faulty component(s), route/install parts properly, leak-test, adjust and road-test.

Why this repair is needed (theory, simple)
- Air springs act like balloons supporting the vehicle. Compressed air is the “spring” — change the pressure and the stiffness/height changes. The compressor pumps air into a tank and valve block to fill the airbags. The valve block (with solenoids) routes air to each bag on demand; the pressure switch/ECU tells the compressor when to run.
- Over time things fail: rubber airbags crack/rupture, airlines chafe or pinch, fittings leak, compressors burn out from excessive cycling, dryers clog, valves stick or solenoids fail, or electrical faults prevent operation. A leak is like a slow puncture in a bicycle tire — the system slowly loses air and the Jeep sags.
- Damping (shock absorbers) is separate — air controls ride height and spring rate, shocks control motion. If only air fails the vehicle will sit low but may still bounce dangerously.

Analogy: Think of the system as a house air supply:
- Compressor = air compressor in the basement (makes air),
- Tank = storage tank (keeps reserve so compressor doesn’t run constantly),
- Valve block = plumbing manifold that sends air to each room,
- Airbags = inflatable furniture supporting the house’s weight,
- Dryer = water trap so moisture doesn’t ruin the furniture,
- Height sensors = thermostats telling the system when a room is too low/high.

Main components — what each is and what to watch for
- Airbag (air spring): rubber/nylon bellows. Fails by cracking, splitting, separation at bead, or mounting failure. Inspect for dry rot, tears, bulges at bead, rubbing marks.
- Compressor (electric): pumps air. Fails from overheating, worn brushes, burned windings, or being undersized for the leaks/usage. Symptoms: won’t build pressure, runs continuously, clicks off on thermal cutout, high amp draw.
- Reservoir tank: stores pressure. Fails if rust holes develop or fittings leak. Drain any water by removing drain if present.
- Valve block / manifold: contains solenoids that route air to each bag. Fail by sticking, electrical fault, or internal leak between ports.
- Dryer/moisture trap: removes moisture. If saturated, moisture reaches components, freezes, causes corrosion or valve sticking.
- Pressure switch / transducer / ECU: senses pressure and controls compressor. Faults cause compressor to never run or run nonstop. Electronic controllers/panels also can fail.
- Airlines & fittings: nylon or rubber tubing and push-fit or threaded fittings. Fail by abrasion, pinching, loose push-fits, or cracked fittings.
- Height sensors (if equipped): potentiometer or switch that tells controller vehicle height. Misadjusted or broken sensors cause incorrect inflation/deflation.
- Shock absorbers & mounts: must be compatible. If shocks are worn, ride control suffers even with correct air pressure.
- Mounting brackets & hardware: bolts can loosen or shear; bracket corrosion can displace airbags.

Tools & supplies you’ll need
- Safety: eye protection, gloves, jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Basic tools: floor jack, jack stands, sockets/ratchet set, wrenches, pliers, torque wrench.
- Air tools: airline cutting tool, thread sealant for NPT (PTFE tape or pipe sealant for tapered threads), but DO NOT use tape on push-to-connect or barbed fittings.
- Leak detection: spray bottle with soapy water or electronic leak detector.
- Multimeter, test light, clamp ammeter (optional) for electrical diagnostics.
- Replacement parts: new airbag(s), compressor, fittings, airlines, manifold or solenoid as needed, dryer cartridge, wiring/fuse/relay if needed.
- Manufacturer’s service manual or kit instructions for specific torque values and bracket orientation.

Safety first (must-read)
- Always relieve system pressure before disconnecting airlines or airbags. A charged airbag can move suddenly and injure.
- Support the axle/body with jack stands rated for your Jeep — never rely on the jack.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when working on electrical components.
- Use appropriate PPE; be cautious of compressed air and pressurized tanks.
- If you’re uncertain about structural mounts or high-pressure components, get a professional.

Diagnosis — find the culprit (step-by-step)
1. Visual inspection: with vehicle parked and safe, inspect airbags, airlines, fittings, compressor, tank, valve block, wiring for obvious damage or disconnected parts.
2. Pressure observation: if the Jeep sits low, note if it holds height for some time or immediately sags. Immediate sag often indicates major leak; slow sag indicates smaller leak.
3. Listen: Start system and listen for compressor running. If it runs continuously, likely leak or faulty pressure switch.
4. Soapy water test: pressurize system to normal operating pressure (use the controller or run compressor until it stops), then spray all fittings, bag folds, bead areas and airlines. Bubbles indicate leak(s).
5. Isolate leaks: shut solenoids or use valve block to isolate corners; test one bag at a time. You can pressurize a single bag via valve block and check.
6. Electrical checks: with multimeter check for proper battery voltage at compressor feed, check fuses/relays, check pressure switch continuity. Measure compressor current draw; excessive amps indicate binding.
7. Valve block: if solenoids make clicking sounds but air doesn’t route, suspect blocked lines or internal valve leakage. Use manifold diagnostics per kit.
8. Height sensor/test panel: simulate sensor movement while observing controller; if controller behaves erratically, sensor or controller may be bad.

Common problems and their typical fixes (quick reference)
- Torn/cracked airbag = replace bag (inspect mounts).
- Airline leak at push-fit = cut back to clean end and reinsert or replace fitting/hose.
- Threaded fitting leak = remove, re-apply correct thread sealant, torque appropriately.
- Compressor runs nonstop but tank stays low = leak in system or pressure switch failure. Pressure-test/soapy water.
- Compressor runs and tank builds then compressor cycles very frequently = small leak or bad tank check valve.
- Moisture in tank or valve block = replace dryer cartridge and check drain.
- Valve block internal leak = replace manifold or rebuild solenoids.
- Electrical: blown fuse/relay = replace and trace short; bad ground = clean and reattach.
- Height sensor bad = replace or re-calibrate per controller’s procedure.

Step-by-step repair examples
Note: below are generic steps; follow the specific kit or component instructions and torque specs when available.

A) Replace a leaking airbag
1. Safety: park level, chock wheels, remove negative battery cable if working near electrical. Raise axle with jack and support on jack stands. Relieve air system pressure (deflate bags).
2. Support axle: put jack under axle to support load if you’ll unbolt lower mount.
3. Remove wheel for access.
4. Remove lower mounting hardware for the bag (may require removing shock or sway bar bracket depending on kit). Keep track of bolt sizes.
5. Pull the bag out of upper mounting plate then disconnect airline fitting from the bag (deflated). If a clamp is used, remove it.
6. Inspect bracket and install replacement bag into upper mount. Reattach lower mount hardware. Use new hardware if original damaged.
7. Reconnect airline, ensure proper insertion and that the fitting is clean. For push-to-connect, push straight in until fully seated. For threaded, use proper thread sealant on tapered threads only.
8. Lower axle to let bag take load. Torque bolts to spec (use manufacturer values). Reinflate slowly and test for leaks.
9. Road-test and re-check fittings.

B) Replace compressor
1. Relieve system pressure. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Locate compressor (usually under body or in engine bay). Disconnect electrical connector and mounting bolts. Also disconnect airline to tank.
3. Remove compressor with bracket. Note any foam/damps to reduce vibration; reuse or replace as needed.
4. Install new compressor: mount, connect airline to tank (use proper fittings), reconnect electrical harness. Use correct gauge power wire, fused near battery; install relay per manufacturer diagram.
5. Reconnect battery, run system and check for correct operation and amperage draw. If compressor draws excessive amps, switch or interference may indicate wiring fault.

C) Replace valve block / manifold
1. Relieve pressure and disconnect battery.
2. Remove electrical connector(s) and airlines (label them to keep track).
3. Unbolt manifold and inspect for corrosion or water.
4. Install new manifold in correct orientation, connect airlines to their matching ports, plug in wiring.
5. Re-pressurize and test each solenoid/bag operation. Use soapy water to confirm no leaks.

Routing and installation best practices
- Keep airlines away from heat sources (exhaust, catalytic converter) and moving parts (suspension travel, steering).
- Use protective sleeves and secure lines with zip ties placed where they won’t chafe.
- Keep airlines with smooth bends — don’t kink.
- Use right fittings. Don’t use PTFE on push-fit fittings.
- When reinstalling tanks or compressors, ensure drain or moisture traps are accessible for service.

Testing & final checks
- After repair, pressurize to operating pressure and leave for 30–60 minutes; re-check for leaks.
- Cycle the system through inflate/deflate to confirm valves work and height sensors are correct.
- Check compressor duty cycle: a healthy system should have compressor cycle on for a short time to top-off; constant running indicates leak or insufficient system capacity.
- Road-test for handling and re-check for leaks and noises.
- Re-torque any hardware after a short test drive.

Maintenance tips to avoid future problems
- Install an inline dryer and replace the cartridge periodically (especially in wet climates).
- Drain tank and inspect for rust; if tank is rusty inside, consider replacement or install an external dryer.
- Regularly inspect airlines and fittings for rub spots.
- Keep compressor area clean and mounting hardware tight.
- Check electrical connections and fuse ratings.

When to call a pro
- If pressure tanks are corroded or you suspect internal tank damage.
- If electrical diagnosis shows intermittent shorts or high current draws you cannot isolate.
- If the entire manifold/controller is complex or integrated into vehicle electronics and requires recalibration tools.
- If mounting points are rust-compromised or frame damage is present.

Quick troubleshooting cheat-sheet (symptom → likely cause)
- Car slowly sags over hours: small leak in airline, fitting, or bag.
- Car instantly sagging after parking: big tear in bag or failed fitting.
- Compressor runs nonstop: leak or faulty pressure switch/relay.
- Compressor clicks off and won’t run: blown fuse, bad relay, faulty pressure switch, or no battery power.
- One corner won’t hold pressure: leak in that bag, airline, or manifold port.
- System freezes / valves stuck in cold weather: moisture in lines/tank; dryer failure.

Final notes
- Accurate diagnosis saves money: find leak first, don’t replace everything at once unless damaged.
- Use replacement parts rated for your system’s max pressure.
- Follow manufacturer torque specs and wiring diagrams when available.
- Safety: relieve pressure and use jack stands.

That covers the theory, components, common failures, diagnostics, step-by-step replacement examples, testing, and safety essentials for air-suspension repair on a Jeep Wrangler TJ.
rteeqp73

Short version up front: the torque‑converter clutch (TCC) in an automatic Jeep TJ locks the torque converter’s turbine to the engine at cruise to eliminate fluid slip. If the TCC or its control parts fail you get shuddering, poor fuel economy, transmission overheating, trouble codes (P0740, P0741, P0744), or limp mode. Repair can be simple (solenoid/wiring or fluid/filter change) or full converter replacement / internal clutch repair, which requires dropping the transmission. Below is a full beginner‑level explanation, parts descriptions, diagnosis steps, and a practical repair/removal/rebuild/reinstall procedure. Read all warnings and follow the vehicle service manual for torque specs and clearances.

Safety and preparations
- Work on a flat level surface, use jack stands and wheel chocks. Never rely on a jack alone. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before big electrical/disassembly work.
- You will be under the vehicle and lifting heavy components (transmission). Use a proper transmission jack or a good floor jack with a transmission adapter and a second person to help. If you’re uncomfortable with this, take it to a shop.
- Have the factory service manual (Haynes/Chilton or factory FSM) handy for torque specs and lift points.

Key components and what they do (plain‑English + analogy)
- Torque Converter (TC): a round assembly between engine and transmission. Think of it as two fans in a bowl of water — the engine spins the “pump” (impeller), fluid throws energy at the “turbine,” which spins the transmission input. At low speed it’s a fluid coupling (allows slip); at higher speed it can be locked.
- Impeller (pump): bolted to the converter housing and spun by the engine — pushes fluid outward.
- Turbine: attached to transmission input shaft — receives fluid flow and spins the gearbox.
- Stator: sits between impeller and turbine with a one‑way clutch; it redirects fluid to multiply torque at low speeds (like a redirecting paddle).
- One‑way clutch (sprag): allows stator to lock in one direction and freewheel in other.
- Lock‑up clutch (TCC) inside the torque converter: a friction clutch and piston assembly inside the TC that, when applied, mechanically ties the turbine to the impeller (eliminates slip). Analogy: cruise control putting the car into “direct drive” so engine and transmission turn together.
- TCC friction plates and lining: wear items, get glazed or contaminated from burnt fluid.
- TCC apply piston and seals: hydraulic piston that presses the friction clutch when pressure is applied; seals keep hydraulic pressure.
- Flexplate (flywheel for automatics): bolted to the crankshaft; TC bolts to the flexplate.
- Transmission front pump & input shaft: the front pump supplies hydraulic pressure; the input shaft engages the turbine hub and drives internal gears.
- TCC solenoid (lock‑up solenoid): electrically actuated valve (on/variable depending on system) in the valve body that controls hydraulic pressure to the TCC apply circuit. Controlled by PCM.
- Valve body: hydraulic control center with passages and valves that route pressure to clutches and servos. A stuck valve or debris can kill TCC apply.
- Pressure sensors, wiring, ECM/PCM: control and monitor TCC engagement. Faults in wiring or PCM commands show up as codes.
- Transmission fluid (ATF) and filter: hydraulic fluid, wear indicator, and cleaning element.
- Seals and gaskets: keep fluid in and contamination out.

Why and when the repair is needed (theory)
- The TCC improves fuel economy and reduces heat by eliminating converter slip at steady speeds. It’s engaged by hydraulic pressure controlled by the TCC solenoid and valve body; the PCM commands it based on speed, load, and other sensors.
- Failures occur because:
- Electrical (bad solenoid, broken wire, bad connector, PCM fault) — no or erratic apply.
- Hydraulic (blocked passages, clogged filter, low/dirty fluid, bad valve body) — pressure can’t reach the TCC piston or apply is inconsistent.
- Mechanical (worn/fractured TCC friction material, damaged piston seals, rotor/turbine hub damage, splines wear) — clutch can slip or shudder.
- Converter internal damage (broken stator, hub, contamination) — fluid flow and lockup affected.
- Symptoms: harsh/rough engagement, shudder when lockup occurs, slipping at cruise, stuck lock (engine surge at low speed), transmission overheat, check engine light and TCC codes.

Diagnostic steps (do these before removing the transmission)
1. Scan for codes: look for P0740, P0741, P0744 or other transmission codes. Record freeze frame and live data if possible.
2. Visual and basic checks:
- Check ATF level and condition: dark, burnt smell, metallic particles = bad. Use Mopar ATF+4 for Chrysler autos (confirm with manual).
- Replace filter and fluid if dirty. Sometimes a fluid/filter/service cures symptoms.
- Inspect TCC wiring and connector at the transmission and solenoid: broken wires, corrosion, or shorts. Wiggle test while scanning for changes.
3. Functional tests:
- With a scan tool watch TCC command (PCM) vs actual TCC duty/feedback (if available). A commanded engage with no effect points hydraulic/mechanical failure.
- Does the converter lock up? Use a scan tool or tachometer: with speed and engine RPM change, if engine RPM drops to near road speed*gear ratio when lockup commanded, it locks. (If no scan tool, road test for shudder or very smooth constant RPM vs speed.)
- Stall test (be cautious): with the transmission in drive, foot braking and application of throttle to measure stall speed — this is more for torque converter/pump problems and should be done carefully.
4. Electrical:
- Test solenoid resistance using service manual specs. Check for power and ground at connector when commanded.
5. Hydraulic and mechanical:
- If wiring/solenoid and fluid/filter are OK but problem persists, the valve body or internal converter/clutch are suspect. Valve body can be serviced without removing converter in some cases; internal clutch repair requires removing the TC and often replacing the whole converter.

Parts and tools you’ll typically need
- Parts:
- New torque converter (reman or new) OR TCC rebuild kit (if you have the skill and tools to rebuild converter) and new seals/gaskets
- TCC solenoid (if faulty)
- Transmission filter and pan gasket (or reusable gasket replacement)
- New ATF (type per manual; Mopar ATF+4 for many TJs)
- Valve body gasket/filters if you plan valve body work
- Flexplate bolts (inspect/replace if damaged) and possible new flexplate if cracked
- Tools:
- Service manual
- Metric socket set, wrenches, torque wrench
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack + wood blocks + second helper
- Engine support bar or hoist (or support engine if you remove mount)
- Jack stands, wheel chocks
- Drain pan for ATF
- Pry bars, screwdrivers, pliers
- Multimeter and scan tool
- Seal driver or soft mallet for converter seals
- Optional: bench vise and tools if you attempt converter internal rebuild
- Consumables: rags, parts cleaner, RTV if needed, thread locker per manual, safety gloves, protective oil absorbent.

High‑level repair decision tree
- If codes and checks suggest electrical: fix wiring/solenoid and retest.
- If fluid/filter/valve body dirty: service fluid/filter and clean magnet(s) in pan. Replace valve body solenoid/filter if necessary.
- If internal converter/clutch worn or damaged: replace torque converter (recommended reman unit) or rebuild torque converter. Transmission removal required for full internal TCC clutch work.

Step‑by‑step: full TCC internal repair (transmission removal path)
This is the common path when the TCC clutch itself is worn or the converter is damaged.

A. Preparations
1. Gather parts, tools, and a helper. Get a reman torque converter if you’re not comfortable opening and rebuilding one.
2. Park, chock, lift vehicle, support with jack stands. Remove skid plates as needed.
3. Drain ATF by removing pan (expect fluid); save for disposal. Remove transmission pan and filter; this is also good cleaning opportunity.
4. Remove driveshaft: mark orientation for reinstall; unbolt from pinion and transmission output flange.
5. Disconnect electrical connectors (speed sensors, solenoid connectors), shift linkage, cooler lines (cap lines to avoid contamination and fluid loss), starter motor, and any exhaust brackets interfering with removal.
6. Support transmission with transmission jack. Remove crossmember and transmission mount.
7. Separate transmission from engine: remove bellhousing bolts. Carefully slide transmission back slightly so torque converter bolts are accessible (some engines allow removal without unbolting converter from flexplate first—have the transmission supported).
8. Remove torque converter bolts (access hole or between engine/transmission as designed). Support converter as you pull transmission back; converter is heavy and will come off input shaft.

B. Remove torque converter and inspect
1. After unbolting, slide transmission back enough to remove converter from the input shaft. Note splines and seating — take photos/notes.
2. Inspect flexplate face and bolt threads. Check converter hub splines and input shaft for wear or damage.
3. If replacing converter: compare new reman unit to old; torque converter must fully seat onto input shaft and pump drive. It should slip onto splines and fully engage pump. Count full turns to ensure proper fit (follow manual).

C. Rebuild converter (advanced) or replace
- Rebuild: involves cutting the converter housing, replace friction plates, seals, piston, reassemble and weld housing. This requires specialized knowledge, dynamic balancing, and testing. Not recommended for beginners unless you have training and tools.
- Replace with reman: recommended. Verify converter is correct for engine/transmission. Some reman units are balanced and ready.

D. Reinstall converter and transmission
1. Before mating transmission to engine, torque converter must be fully seated onto transmission input shaft and pump. It should slide on and fully engage — you should be able to rotate the converter and it should “click” into place a few times as splines seat. The converter should sit forward flush to housing; follow manual for number of turns or specific seating checks.
2. With converter properly rammed into pump, align transmission with engine and slide forward. Ensure converter’s pilot engages properly in crank pilot. As you bolt bellhousing forward, rotate converter to align bolt holes and bolt converter to flexplate (some prefer bolting converter to flexplate after mating transmission, but many engines require doing it with transmission pulled in place—follow manual).
3. Torque bolts to factory specs. Reinstall crossmember, mounts, starter, driveshaft, shift linkage, electrical connectors, cooler lines, exhaust brackets.
4. Refill transmission with the correct quantity and type of ATF. It’s usual to start with a lower amount and top to the “full hot” level after running.

E. Final checks and road test
1. Reconnect battery, start engine, check for leaks, let the transmission get to operating temp, and check fluid level per service manual procedure (often running at idle in Park or Neutral and with parking brake engaged).
2. Use scan tool to clear codes and watch TCC command/feedback during a controlled road test. Ensure no shudder and proper lockup behavior (improves fuel economy).
3. Recheck fluid level after test drive.

Valve body / solenoid replacement (if chosen instead of converter)
- If diagnostics point to valve body problems, remove transmission pan, drop valve body per manual, replace suspected valve or solenoid assemblies, replace gaskets and filter, reassemble. This avoids removing transmission. Cleanliness is critical — contamination will cause more problems.

Common gotchas and tips
- Do not reuse a damaged converter or a converter that won’t fully seat — it will pump air and destroy the front pump.
- Never let the transmission hang unsupported by a jack when detached — the weight can bend housings and damage mounts.
- Always replace the transmission filter and pan gasket when opened — contaminants cause valve body issues.
- If you replace converter only but valve body/solenoids are clogged, you can still have problems. Do the basic electrical/hydraulic checks first.
- Bench rebuilding a converter without the proper balancing is unreliable — reman replacement is the safer choice for most DIYers.
- Keep everything clean. Dirt in the valve body causes erratic hydraulic control.

When to consult a professional
- If you are unsure about safely supporting and lowering a transmission.
- If internal converter rebuild, valve body machining, or dynamic balancing is required. Those require shop equipment.
- If wiring faults are intermittent or PCM output is suspect.

Estimated time & difficulty
- Diagnosis and fluid/filter change: a few hours.
- Removing transmission and replacing torque converter: 1–2 full days for a beginner with a helper and proper tools.
- Rebuild/valve body work (if inexperienced) best left to shops.

Closing practical checklist (do before you start)
- Service manual, torque specs, and lift points: have them.
- Replacement reman torque converter of correct part number: on hand.
- Transmission jack and second person: arranged.
- New ATF, filter, gaskets, and any solenoids: purchased.
- Clean workspace and adequate time: planned.

This gives you the components and the full path from diagnosis through removal, replacement/rebuild, and reassembly. Follow the factory manual for exact torque specs, fluid volumes, and detailed drawings. If you want, use the vehicle VIN to order the correct reman converter and manifolds — otherwise a reputable parts supplier can match the converter to the Jeep TJ transmission model.
rteeqp73