The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002.
It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size
trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and
Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a
rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand,
although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is
sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they
are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was
marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the
Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in
Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the
United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.
Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March
5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in
Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on
production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information
came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in
Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but
GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end
of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for
vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other
carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.
The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North
United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In
belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock
system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not
available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor
redesign in late 2007.
Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally
introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank.
Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the
separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as
well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed
behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.
In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype
version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore
to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of
high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure
concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt
Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of
crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International
Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing
models any more than 2 concepts before.
In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are
opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax"
engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel
Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New
2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian
Twin.
Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck
marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors,
which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker
revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in
cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet
Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were
presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities
different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim
parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the
color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX
launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of
2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter
powerplant with 177-horses.
Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual
How to check/replace a fuse on an Isuzu D‑Max — step‑by‑step (no fluff)
Tools & supplies
- Owner’s manual / fuse diagram (to identify correct box and fuse)
- Fuse puller (plastic) or insulated needle‑nose pliers
- Replacement blade fuses of the correct type and amperage (carry common sizes: 5, 10, 15, 20, 30 A)
- Multimeter (set to continuity) or 12V test light
- Small flat screwdriver (to remove fuse box cover clips if needed)
- Insulated gloves and safety glasses
- Wrench for battery negative terminal (if you will disconnect battery)
Safety precautions (read first)
- Vehicle OFF, key out, lights and accessories OFF. Park on level, parking brake on.
- For under‑hood fuse work or anytime you’ll be using metal tools near battery/terminals, disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid shorts and sparks.
- Do not substitute a higher‑amp fuse. Replacing with a larger amp fuse can cause wiring to overheat and start a fire.
- Never use foil or other makeshift substitutes.
- If a fuse blows repeatedly, don’t keep swapping fuses — find the fault or send to a workshop.
Locate the fuse box
1. Consult the owner’s manual or diagram on the fuse box cover to find the correct fuse box and the specific circuit fuse (common locations: instrument panel fuse box under driver’s side dash; engine bay fuse box near battery).
2. Remove the fuse box cover (clips or pull cover straight off). The underside usually has a diagram listing circuits and fuse ratings.
Inspect and remove the fuse
3. Identify the correct fuse by name and amperage on the diagram.
4. Use the plastic fuse puller supplied in some boxes, or insulated needle‑nose pliers. Grip the fuse firmly at the plastic sides and pull straight out—don’t twist.
- How to use the fuse puller: squeeze the legs, position the jaws over the fuse body, pull straight out with steady force. The puller avoids crushing and shorting the fuse blade.
- If using pliers, avoid touching both battery positive and ground simultaneously and make sure the battery is disconnected if working under the hood.
Check the fuse
5. Visual check: look through the plastic top — a broken/thin/corroded metal strip inside = blown.
6. Electrical check (recommended): remove the fuse and set multimeter to continuity (or low‑ohm). Place probes on the two metal blade ends. Continuity (beep or near 0 Ω) = good; open = blown.
7. A 12V test light can also check an installed fuse under ignition ON; a blown fuse will not light both sides.
Replace the fuse
8. Replace with the same type and exact amp rating. Match blade type (standard ATO/ATC or mini) and amp number.
9. Insert the new fuse fully into the slot until seated. Avoid pushing at an angle.
Reassemble and test
10. Refit fuse box cover, reconnect negative battery terminal if disconnected (tighten to secure).
11. Turn ignition ON and test the circuit (lights, stereo, accessory). If the new fuse blows immediately or after a short time, stop — it indicates a short or component fault. Do not replace with a higher amp fuse.
Special notes — main fuses, fusible links and relays
- Large main fuses or fusible links near the battery require ring‑terminal tools (wrenches/sockets) and often dealer‑specified replacements. If a main fuse is blown, consult a wiring diagram or dealer.
- If a relay is suspected, swap with a same‑type relay from a similar circuit (check diagram) or replace.
Common pitfalls to avoid
- Replacing with a higher‑amp fuse to “stop it blowing.”
- Using metal pliers without disconnecting battery near live terminals — risk of short and sparks.
- Not consulting the fuse diagram and replacing the wrong fuse.
- Not seating the fuse fully (intermittent contact).
- Ignoring repeated blown fuses — persistent fault will damage wiring or components.
When to seek professional help
- Main fuse or fusible link blown.
- Repeated fuse failures.
- Electrical smells, smoke, melting, or visible wiring damage.
- Complex diagnostics beyond simple fuse replacement.
That’s it — follow steps precisely, use the correct rated fuse and insulated tools, and investigate if the fuse blows again.
rteeqp73
To understand the process of testing and replacing the throttle position sensor (TPS) on an Isuzu D-Max, it's essential to grasp the theory behind the TPS and its role in the vehicle's engine management system.
### Theory Behind Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
1. **Function of TPS**: The TPS is a potentiometer located on the throttle body that monitors the position of the throttle plate. It provides input to the Engine Control Unit (ECU) about how far the accelerator pedal is pressed, allowing the ECU to adjust fuel injection and ignition timing accordingly for optimal engine performance.
2. **Signal Output**: As the throttle plate opens or closes, the TPS varies its resistance, sending a corresponding voltage signal to the ECU. This signal typically ranges from 0.5V (closed throttle) to about 4.5V (fully open throttle). Any deviation from this expected range can indicate a fault.
3. **Symptoms of Fault**: A faulty TPS can cause a range of issues, including poor acceleration, stalling, rough idling, or a check engine light. This is because the ECU may receive incorrect data, leading to improper fuel-air mixture and ignition timing.
### Steps to Test and Replace the TPS
1. **Diagnostic Scanning**: Use an OBD-II scanner to check for any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the TPS. Codes related to throttle position can give you a starting point to identify faults.
2. **Visual Inspection**: Check the wiring and connectors leading to the TPS for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. A bad connection can lead to incorrect voltage readings, mimicking a faulty sensor.
3. **Testing TPS Voltage**: Disconnect the TPS connector and use a multimeter to measure the voltage output while manually moving the throttle plate. You should see a smooth transition in voltage as the throttle position changes. Any erratic readings or flat spots indicate a faulty TPS.
4. **Replacement**: If the TPS is confirmed faulty, replace it by removing the screws or bolts securing it to the throttle body. Install the new sensor, ensuring it is properly aligned and secured.
5. **Recalibration**: Some vehicles may require a recalibration of the TPS after replacement, which can involve resetting the ECU or performing a specific relearn procedure.
6. **Final Testing**: After installation, reconnect the battery (if disconnected) and clear any stored DTCs. Take the vehicle for a test drive to ensure the engine responds properly to throttle inputs and there are no warning lights.
### How the Repair Fixes the Fault
By replacing a faulty TPS, you restore accurate communication between the throttle position and the ECU. This ensures that the ECU can make informed decisions regarding fuel delivery and ignition timing, leading to improved engine performance, better fuel economy, and a smoother driving experience. Essentially, the repair fixes the fault by eliminating the source of incorrect voltage signals that disrupt normal engine operation.
rteeqp73
1) What a knock sensor does (theory)
- Function: a piezoelectric vibration sensor mounted to the engine block/head that converts high‑frequency combustion knock (detonation) into an electrical signal for the ECU.
- ECU use: the ECU reads knock amplitude/counts and, if knock is detected, retards ignition timing (or enacts other control strategies) to protect the engine. If the sensor or circuit is faulty the ECU may go into limp behavior, set MIL codes (e.g. P0325/P0330-family), disable knock control (leading to reduced economy, power or possible pinging), or log false knock.
- How it produces a signal: mechanical shock -> piezo element -> small AC voltage pulses. The signal is not a steady DC voltage; it is an AC transient waveform whose amplitude/frequency content represents knock intensity.
2) Common symptoms and diagnostic theory
- Symptoms: MIL on with knock/circuit codes, reduced power/torque, poor economy, audible detonation, or no knock counts in live data under load.
- Diagnostic logic: confirm ECU codes, inspect wiring/connectors (intermittent/open/short to ground or Vb), check sensor mechanical condition and mounting (bad contact dampens signal), then verify sensor signal electrically (oscilloscope ideal — look for AC pulses when tapping head or under load; multimeter AC can show mV pulses but is less sensitive). Resistance checks alone are often inconclusive because many sensors are piezo devices; consult factory specs.
3) Preparation (safety and tools)
- Safety: engine cool, key off, parking brake on, wear gloves/eye protection.
- Tools: basic hand tools, ratchet and suitable sockets, extension, torque wrench, small flat screwdriver for connector clip, dielectric grease, AC multimeter or oscilloscope (optional), OBD‑II reader to read/clear codes and watch live knock counts.
- Info: know exact sensor location for your D‑Max engine variant (consult factory manual or diagrams). Typical mounting points are on the cylinder block or head near the middle cylinders.
4) Ordered repair steps (in order)
1. Read and record fault codes and live data (knock counts if available). Note conditions when code set.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal (recommended to prevent shorts while working electrical connectors).
3. Locate the knock sensor(s) on the engine (usually threaded into the block/head). Clean area to prevent debris entering when sensor removed.
4. Unclip and disconnect the electrical connector for the sensor. Inspect connector for corrosion, broken pins, water ingress, damaged insulation.
5. Inspect wiring back to ECU for chafing, broken wires, or evidence of arcing. Repair any wiring faults (crimp/splice with heat‑shrink, replace harness section).
6. Remove sensor: use the correct socket and turn counterclockwise. Support surrounding components so you don’t stress the wiring. Keep the sensor upright and avoid dropping it.
7. Inspect sensor mounting bore and thread. Clean mating surface; remove old sealant/contaminants. Do not use wire brush on sealing face — clean with lint‑free cloth.
8. Fit new sensor: if required, apply a very small amount of anti‑seize to sensor threads per manufacturer guidance (many manufacturers advise minimal or none — follow spec). Thread in by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
9. Torque sensor to manufacturer spec (typical range ~10–20 N·m; if you don’t have the manual use ≈10–15 N·m / 7–11 ft·lb). Over‑torquing can damage the sensor or change sensitivity.
10. Reconnect sensor electrical connector; apply a light smear of dielectric grease to connector terminals to prevent corrosion if appropriate.
11. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
12. Clear trouble codes with OBD‑II scanner.
13. Start engine and monitor live knock sensor data (or knock counts) at idle and under load. Perform a controlled test drive under conditions that previously produced the code (monitor ECU behavior and look for recurrence).
14. If problem persists, inspect ECU inputs and grounds (poor ECU ground can mimic sensor failure), or recheck wiring harness for intermittent fault.
5) How the repair fixes the fault (mechanism)
- Replacing a failed sensor restores the ability to generate proper AC knock pulses; the ECU once again receives accurate knock information and can adjust timing/strategy correctly — this removes false fault codes and avoids limp strategies.
- Repairing wiring/connectors restores signal continuity and reduces resistance/noise that can mask or corrupt the knock signal, eliminating intermittent or missing knock counts.
- Cleaning the mounting face and torquing the sensor correctly re‑establishes mechanical coupling between block vibrations and the piezo element, improving signal fidelity.
- Clearing codes and re‑testing lets the ECU re‑learn normal knock thresholds and confirms the fault is resolved.
6) Testing/verification after repair
- Use OBD live data: verify knock counts/voltage pulses appear under load where expected and that MIL does not return.
- Road test under load; listen for detonation and check engine performance.
- If codes return, capture waveform with an oscilloscope to differentiate sensor failure vs. wiring/ECU grounding issues.
7) Notes and cautions (brief)
- Many knock sensors are sensitivity‑matched; use the correct OEM or equivalent part.
- Do not over‑tighten; sensor preload affects performance.
- Resistance tests may be misleading because of piezo element characteristics — prefer dynamic testing (tapping or oscilloscope under load).
End.
rteeqp73
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