Isuzu D-Max 2010 factory workshop and repair manual download pdf

The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002. It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand, although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.

Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March 5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.

The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor redesign in late 2007.

Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank. Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.

In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing models any more than 2 concepts before.

In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax" engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New 2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian Twin.

Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors, which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of 2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter powerplant with 177-horses.

Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual

Short version: the throttle body is the air “door” that meters air into the engine. On Isuzu D‑Max diesels the throttle valve is used mainly for idle control and EGR/vacuum control; on petrol engines it directly meters engine airflow. Carbon and oil deposits build up on the throttle plate and bore, causing poor idle, stalling, rough running, limp mode, higher fuel use and bad emissions. Cleaning restores proper air flow and sensor readings. Below is a complete beginner-friendly, step‑by‑step guide with component descriptions, theory, what can go wrong, tools, safety and testing.

1) Theory — how the system works (simple)
- Throttle body: a machined bore with a rotating plate (butterfly) that opens and closes to control airflow (like a door in a hallway).
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or electronic throttle actuator: tells the ECU the plate’s position. On modern vehicles the throttle is often drive-by-wire (electronic) — a motor moves the plate under ECU control.
- Idle Air Control (IAC) / stepper motor (if present): small valve or bypass that fine‑tunes idle airflow.
- Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor: measures how much air enters the engine so ECU can set fuel injection.
- EGR/PCV/boost/vacuum lines: these feed the throttle/EGR and can route oil/soot back into the intake.
- ECU (engine control): uses sensor data (TPS, MAF/MAP, temp) to control fuel quantity, throttle position, EGR, and idle.
- Analogy: throttle = door, sensors = your eyes, ECU = the person opening/closing the door to keep the room comfortable.

On an Isuzu D‑Max (diesel): throttle rarely opens fully under acceleration — the diesel’s fuel injection controls power. The throttle/valve is primarily used for idle stabilization, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) control and providing vacuum or intake restriction for emissions systems. This means carbon/oil contamination from EGR and PCV will foul the throttle bore and plate over time.

2) Symptoms that indicate cleaning is needed
- Rough or fluctuating idle, stalling at idle
- Slow or jerky throttle response at low RPM
- Poor fuel economy
- Check Engine Light (CEL) with codes like P0505 (idle control) or throttle-related codes
- Engine enters limp mode / reduced power
- Surge or hesitation on throttle tip-in

3) What can go wrong (failure modes)
- Carbon build‑up binding the throttle plate — plate sticks partially open or closed.
- Failed TPS or electronic actuator from contamination or electrical fault.
- Vacuum/leak at intake boot or throttle gasket after removal — causes high/erratic idle.
- Damaged sensors (MAF) from overspray or rough handling.
- Damaged throttle housing or electrical connectors if overtightened or cleaned with wrong solvent.
- ECU adaptation issues — throttle idle will be wrong until relearned.
- Using wrong cleaner (e.g., brake cleaner on plastic electronics) can damage sensors or seals.

4) Tools, materials and consumables
- Throttle body / intake cleaner (safe on electronics; many labeled throttle body cleaner)
- Clean lint‑free rags or microfiber, small brushes (nylon toothbrush) and cotton swabs
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Ratchet, appropriate sockets (often 8mm, 10mm depending on bolts)
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Safety glasses and nitrile gloves
- Small container for bolts
- Shop light
- OBD-II scanner (optional but recommended) — to read/clear codes and check live data
- Replacement throttle body gasket (if the gasket is disposable) and possibly new clamps
- Anti-seize or correct thread locker only if manufacturer specifies (usually no)

5) Safety and prep
- Work on a cool engine (hot intake parts can burn and cleaners can vaporize).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before unplugging throttle electrical connectors (to avoid shorting or unexpected actuator movement).
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; clean in a well‑ventilated area.
- Keep cleaners away from painted surfaces/plastics; avoid spraying electrical connectors.

6) Detailed step‑by‑step procedure (beginner friendly)
Estimated time: 45–90 minutes depending on access and whether you remove the whole throttle body.

A. Preparation
- Park on level ground, handbrake on, engine cool.
- Locate throttle body: follow the air intake tube from the airbox toward the engine; throttle body is between intake boot and intake manifold.
- Gather tools and parts.

B. Disconnect battery
- Remove negative (–) battery cable. Wait 1–2 minutes for capacitors to discharge.

C. Remove air intake duct
- Loosen hose clamps on the intake duct between airbox and throttle body. Remove the duct enough to access the throttle housing.
- If there are MAF sensor connectors or hoses attached, carefully unplug electrical connectors (press release tabs).

D. Identify and unplug connectors
- Identify throttle electrical connector(s) and idle control connector if present. Press the tab and gently pull out. Don’t pull wires.
- Label any vacuum hoses you disconnect (or take phone pictures) so you can reconnect correctly.

E. Option: Remove throttle body from manifold (recommended for deep cleaning)
- Remove the bolts securing the throttle body to the intake manifold. Keep bolts in container.
- Remove old gasket; inspect sealing surfaces. If gasket is single‑use, replace.

Note: Many people clean the throttle without removal by opening the plate by hand (or having an assistant crank the throttle) and spraying/cleaning the bore. Full removal allows better access and inspection of gasket surface.

F. Cleaning
- Inspect inside: you’ll see carbon and oily soot near the plate edges and bore.
- Use throttle body cleaner sprayed onto a rag or directly into bore (avoid spraying on electronic connectors). Let cleaner soften deposits for 20–30 seconds.
- Use a nylon brush or toothbrush and a lint‑free rag to gently remove caked carbon. Work around the plate edge; if the plate is stuck, gently move it to access the full circumference. Do not force the plate hard — it can be delicate.
- Clean both faces of the plate and the interior bore until metal is visible and smooth.
- Clean throttle body exterior surfaces and mating surfaces. Remove all debris and old gasket material from flange.
- Wipe dry with clean rag. Make sure no cloth fibers remain inside.

Key tips:
- Do not spray MAF sensor. If MAF is on the intake duct, avoid soaking it. If you need to clean MAF, use dedicated MAF cleaner and follow MAF instructions.
- Use only throttle body cleaner, not carb/brake cleaners that may harm plastics or electronics.
- Avoid letting large amounts of cleaner pool into intake ports or cylinders.

G. Reassembly
- If removed, fit new gasket or reuse if in good condition per manual.
- Refit throttle body and torque bolts to manufacturer specs (if you don’t have the spec, snug evenly and don’t overtighten; typical small bolts are around 8–12 Nm but check manual).
- Reconnect vacuum hoses and electrical connectors.
- Reattach air intake duct and clamps. Ensure no vacuum leaks and that clamps are tight.

H. Reconnect battery and initial power‑up
- Reconnect negative battery cable.
- Do not immediately start the engine if the ECU requires a relearn procedure — instead, follow relearn step below.

7) Throttle relearn / ECU adaptation (general guidance)
Modern electronic throttle bodies often require an idle relearn. Exact procedure varies by year/engine — if you have a service manual follow that. General safe method:
- Turn ignition to ON (do NOT start engine) for about 2–5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 2–3 times.
- Start engine and let it idle without touching the accelerator for 5–10 minutes until engine warms and idle stabilizes.
- You can also take a short drive with varying throttle load to allow ECU to adapt.
- Use an OBD‑II scanner to clear codes and monitor throttle position and idle control values. If CEL returns, retrieve specific codes.

8) Test and inspection after cleaning
- Start engine, listen for rough idle, hissing (vacuum leak).
- Check that idle is stable and within normal range. Let engine reach normal operating temperature.
- Road test at low speed to check throttle response and drivability.
- Check for CEL and scan for errors. If codes persist, inspect connectors, vacuum lines, sensors (MAF/TPS) and consider replacement.

9) Troubleshooting common post‑clean issues
- High or erratic idle: likely vacuum leak or throttle plate stuck, or ECU needs relearn. Recheck hoses, intake clamp positions and gasket.
- CEL returns: read codes — could be TPS, throttle actuator, MAF or vacuum leak code.
- Throttle unresponsive or limp mode: inspect electrical connectors, fuses, and wiring to throttle actuator. A fault code will usually indicate the failing component.
- Poor performance persists: MAF sensor dirty, EGR clogged, fuel system issue — cleaning throttle may not fix all causes.

10) Maintenance tips to reduce reoccurrence
- Use high‑quality engine oil and change at intervals to reduce crankcase vapors.
- Clean or replace air filter regularly.
- Periodically inspect and clean PCV and EGR components if accessible.
- Avoid unnecessary idling and short trips where deposits build faster.

11) Notes specific to Isuzu D‑Max diesels
- D‑Max diesel engines often have soot/oil contamination from EGR and PCV systems — expect heavier black deposits than petrol engines.
- Some D‑Max models use an electronic throttle valve and require a specific relearn with a scan tool — if idle doesn’t normalize or CEL persists, use an OBD tool or visit a service centre.
- Always check the vehicle’s service manual for bolt torques and model‑specific procedures.

12) Final warnings
- Do not force or pry the throttle plate. Avoid rough mechanical force on sensors and wiring.
- Avoid using cleaners that damage plastic or rubber parts. Do not allow cleaners to enter cylinders.
- If you are uncomfortable with electrical connectors or the throttle actuator, or if the CEL persists, have a professional mechanic or dealer inspect it.

That’s everything you need to clean the throttle body on an Isuzu D‑Max as a beginner mechanic: why it’s needed, how it works, every major component to watch, step‑by‑step cleaning and reassembly, testing, and common failure modes. Follow model‑specific service manual steps where available (especially for torque specs and exact relearn procedures).
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### Tools Required

- **Socket Set**
- **Description**: A set of various-sized sockets and a ratchet handle.
- **Use**: To remove bolts and nuts securing the shock mount to the vehicle.
- **Extra Tip**: Make sure to have a metric socket set, as most fasteners on Isuzu vehicles are metric.

- **Wrench Set**
- **Description**: A set of open-end and box-end wrenches.
- **Use**: Helpful if there are tight spaces where a socket cannot fit.
- **Extra Tip**: Use the proper size to avoid stripping the bolts.

- **Pry Bar**
- **Description**: A long, sturdy metal tool used for leverage.
- **Use**: To help remove stubborn components or to create space when necessary.
- **Extra Tip**: Use it gently to avoid damaging surrounding parts.

- **Torque Wrench**
- **Description**: A tool to ensure bolts are tightened to specific torque settings.
- **Use**: To properly tighten shock mount bolts according to manufacturer specifications.
- **Extra Tip**: This prevents over-tightening, which can damage parts.

- **Jack and Jack Stands**
- **Description**: A hydraulic jack to lift the vehicle, and jack stands to support it.
- **Use**: To safely elevate the car, allowing access to the shock mounts.
- **Extra Tip**: Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

- **Replacement Shock Mounts**
- **Description**: The rubber or metal components that connect the shock absorber to the vehicle frame.
- **Use**: If existing mounts are worn, cracked, or damaged, they need replacement for proper functionality.

### Steps for Shock Mount Repair

- **Preparation**
- Secure the car on a flat surface.
- Use the jack to lift the vehicle and place jack stands under the chassis for safety.

- **Remove the Wheel**
- Use a lug wrench to remove the wheel where the shock mount is located. This provides better access.

- **Locate the Shock Mount**
- Identify the shock absorber and locate the upper and lower shock mounts.

- **Remove the Shock Absorber**
- Use the socket set to remove bolts securing the shock absorber to the mounts.
- If the bolts are stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.

- **Check the Shock Mounts**
- Inspect the rubber grommets or bushings on the shock mounts.
- If they are cracked or worn, they need to be replaced.

- **Install New Shock Mounts**
- Position the new mounts in place.
- Align them and insert bolts, tightening them by hand first.

- **Torque the Bolts**
- Use the torque wrench to tighten bolts to manufacturer specifications.
- This ensures the shock mount is securely fastened without being over-tightened.

- **Reinstall the Shock Absorber**
- Position the shock absorber back into place, securing it with bolts.

- **Reattach the Wheel**
- Place the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts.

- **Lower the Vehicle**
- Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle using the jack.

### Additional Notes

- **Replacement Parts**: Always replace worn or damaged shock mounts to ensure the suspension system functions correctly.
- **Safety**: Wear safety glasses and gloves during the repair to protect yourself from debris and sharp objects.
- **Consult Manual**: If in doubt, refer to the Isuzu D-Max service manual for specific torque settings and part numbers.
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A transmission fluid flush on an Isuzu D-Max (or any vehicle) is performed to maintain the health of the transmission system. Here's the theory behind it and how the process works to fix potential issues:

### Theory Behind Transmission Fluid Flush

1. **Purpose of Transmission Fluid**:
- Transmission fluid lubricates the moving parts within the transmission, cools the system, and provides hydraulic pressure for gear shifting. Over time, the fluid can become contaminated with debris, metal shavings, and degraded additives.

2. **Symptoms of Contaminated Fluid**:
- Contaminated fluid can lead to poor shifting performance, overheating, slippage, and potential transmission failure. Flushing the fluid helps restore optimal function and prolongs the lifespan of the transmission.

3. **Flushing vs. Draining**:
- A flush involves circulating a cleaning solution through the transmission to remove old fluid and contaminants, while a drain and fill only removes a portion of the fluid. A flush aims for a more thorough cleaning.

### Steps of the Flush Process

1. **Preparation**:
- Ensure the vehicle is on a level surface, and gather necessary tools and materials (flush machine, new fluid, etc.).

2. **Connect Flush Machine**:
- Attach the flush machine to the transmission cooler lines. This machine will push the cleaning solution through the transmission and remove old fluid.

3. **Circulate Cleaning Solution**:
- Start the machine, which pumps the cleaning fluid into the transmission. This fluid dislodges contaminants and old fluid, effectively cleaning the internal components.

4. **Fluid Replacement**:
- As the old fluid is expelled, new transmission fluid is introduced. This process often involves a continuous cycle where old fluid is removed, and new fluid is added until the fluid coming out is clean.

5. **Inspect and Replace Filter**:
- While performing a flush, it’s advisable to check and replace the transmission filter if applicable. A clogged filter can restrict fluid flow and cause issues regardless of fluid cleanliness.

6. **Final Checks**:
- Once the flush is complete, reconnect any removed components, check fluid levels, and run the engine to circulate the new fluid. Check for leaks and ensure proper operation.

### How the Repair Fixes the Fault

- **Restores Fluid Quality**: The flush replaces degraded fluid with fresh fluid that has the correct viscosity and additive package, ensuring effective lubrication and cooling.
- **Removes Contaminants**: The cleaning solution eliminates sludge and metal particles that could hinder performance, thus restoring optimal hydraulic function.
- **Improves Shifting Performance**: Fresh fluid provides better hydraulic pressure for smoother gear shifts, reducing slippage and enhancing responsiveness.
- **Prevents Overheating**: Clean fluid helps maintain better thermal management, preventing overheating and reducing the risk of transmission failure.

By performing a transmission fluid flush, you effectively address the degradation of fluid quality and contaminants, leading to improved transmission performance and longevity.
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