Isuzu D-Max 2010 factory workshop and repair manual download pdf

The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002. It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand, although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.

Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March 5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.

The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor redesign in late 2007.

Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank. Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.

In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing models any more than 2 concepts before.

In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax" engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New 2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian Twin.

Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors, which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of 2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter powerplant with 177-horses.

Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual

Straight, practical guide to the starter motor on an Isuzu D‑Max for a beginner mechanic — what each part is, why starters fail, how the system works, what can go wrong, and a step‑by‑step repair/replacement procedure. Read safety warnings and follow them. No questions.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTES
- Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the starter or any heavy wiring. A starter can draw hundreds of amps and can cause sparks and injury.
- Use jack stands if you lift the vehicle — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep metal tools away from battery posts.
- If you are unsure or don’t have the right tools, have a pro do the job.

OVERVIEW — what the starter does (analogy)
- The starter motor is an electric motor that spins the engine’s flywheel/ring gear to start combustion. Analogy: think of the starter like a strong person giving one big shove to a heavy merry‑go‑round (the engine) to get it turning until it can run on its own.
- It uses high current from the battery and a solenoid to push a small drive gear (pinion) into the large ring‑gear teeth on the flywheel; once engaged the motor spins the engine. An overrunning clutch (one‑way) prevents the spinning engine from driving the starter gear at high speed after start.

COMPONENTS — detailed description of every part you will encounter
1. Starter motor assembly (complete unit)
- Electric motor: converts electrical energy into rotation; contains armature, commutator, brushes, windings.
- Housing: metal shell that supports the motor and mounts to the engine block or bellhousing.
2. Solenoid (mounted on the starter)
- Dual function: heavy current contactor (connects battery positive to the motor) and mechanical actuator (pushes the pinion forward). Small control terminal comes from ignition switch/relay.
3. Pinion drive / Bendix / reduction drive
- Pinion (small gear) that meshes with the engine ring gear. Many starters have a reduction gear and an overrunning clutch (one‑way), which allows strong torque but protects the starter once the engine runs faster.
4. Overrunning clutch (freewheel)
- Lets the pinion drive the flywheel but prevents the engine from backdriving the starter.
5. Mounting flange and bolts
- Bolts through starter flange into the engine block/bellhousing. Bolts size varies by model (often M10 or M12).
6. Electrical connections
- Heavy battery positive cable (to the starter's large stud/terminal). May have a fusible link.
- Small control wire (from ignition switch/starter relay/ECU) to solenoid small terminal — provides the signal to engage.
- Ground path: starter body is grounded through its mounting to the engine; battery negative must have good connection to engine block/chassis.
7. Flywheel/flexplate and ring gear
- Large gear bolted to the engine crankshaft. The starter pinion engages these teeth.
8. Starter relay/ignition switch/fuses
- The starter control circuit often uses a relay; failing relay or ignition switch can mimic a bad starter.

WHY STARTER REPAIRS ARE NEEDED — theory
- Starters are electromechanical: brushes wear, commutators get pitted, bearings/bushings wear, solenoids stick, gears wear. They operate under heavy current and occasional high load (cold engine, high compression), so parts wear out.
- Electrical faults (bad battery, corroded cables, poor ground, blown fusible link, bad relay or ignition switch) will prevent proper cranking even if the starter is mechanically fine. Always test electrical supply before replacing the starter.

SYMPTOMS OF STARTER PROBLEMS (common)
- Single click or rapid clicking when turning key: often solenoid or low battery/poor connection.
- No‑crank (no sound): could be battery, fuse, relay, ignition switch, or completely failed starter.
- Slow cranking: weak battery, high resistance in cables or starter motor with worn brushes or bad bearings.
- Grinding noise during cranking: pinion and flywheel teeth are not meshing properly — worn pinion teeth, worn ring gear, or starter is misaligned.
- Starter runs but engine doesn’t turn (pinion fails to engage): solenoid mechanical failure (Bendix stuck) or broken linkage.
- Intermittent operation: heat soak, worn brushes, intermittent wiring/ground issue.
- Smell or smoke: overheating due to high resistance, electrical short, or repeated attempts; stop immediately.

WHAT CAN GO WRONG — failure modes and causes
- Electrical:
- Dead/weak battery (not enough volts/amps).
- Corroded/loose battery terminals or poor ground strap.
- High resistance in the battery positive cable or at connections (voltage drop under load).
- Blown fusible link or starter relay failure.
- Faulty ignition switch/neutral safety switch (no start circuit signal).
- Solenoid:
- Contacts worn or pitted → poor heavy current conduction → starter rocks.
- Plunger/mechanism sticks → pinion won't push out or retract properly.
- Motor internals:
- Worn brushes or springs → poor contact with commutator → intermittent or no spin.
- Commutator grooved or burned → poor performance.
- Worn bearings/bushings → friction; slow cranking or grinding.
- Mechanical drive:
- Worn/damaged pinion gear or flywheel ring‑gear teeth → grinding or no engagement.
- Failed overrunning clutch → starter will be driven by engine or will not engage.
- Mounting:
- Loose or broken mounting bolts → misalignment, noise, or starter movement causing wear.
- Heat damage:
- Starter located near exhaust can overheat and fail prematurely.

TOOLS & MATERIALS NEEDED
- Basic hand tools: 10/12/13/14/17/19 mm sockets (metric set), ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (recommended).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Battery terminal puller/brush, wire brush, terminal cleaner.
- Multimeter (for voltage and continuity tests).
- Heavy insulated jumper cables (for bench testing).
- Replacement starter (OEM or good aftermarket), or rebuild kit (brushes/solenoid) if rebuilding.
- Replacement bolts if old ones are corroded; thread locker may be recommended.
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection.
- Penetrating oil (if bolts are seized), rags, dielectric grease.

BASIC TESTS BEFORE REMOVAL
- Check battery voltage with engine off: healthy battery ~12.6 V. Under cranking it may drop but should stay above ~9–10 V.
- Voltage at starter main stud while cranking: should be near battery voltage; a big drop (>0.5–1.0 V) suggests wiring/cable problem.
- Check small solenoid terminal voltage when key is turned to START: should be battery voltage (or near). If present but starter doesn’t engage, problem is the starter/solenoid contact. If absent, problem upstream (ignition switch/relay/neutral switch).
- Listen: click only = solenoid or low battery/wiring; no sound = no power to solenoid or complete failure.
- Wiggle battery cables and connectors while attempting to start to see if intermittent contact is the cause.

REMOVAL / INSPECTION / REPLACEMENT — step‑by‑step
Note: exact starter location varies by model/year/engine; common Isuzu D‑Max diesel starters are mounted on the side of the engine at the bellhousing area. Check clearance and access. Adjust steps to your vehicle but follow this sequence.

1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- If needed, raise vehicle and secure on jack stands.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal first; then positive if you want extra safety.
- Locate starter (follow the large positive cable from the battery toward the engine; it leads to the starter’s big terminal).

2. Access and clearances
- Remove any engine covers, intake duct, or splash shields that obstruct access.
- Note routing of battery cable and any brackets that secure it.

3. Document and mark
- Take photos of wiring before removal to ensure correct reinstallation.
- Mark the position of any shims or spacers if fitted.

4. Disconnect wiring
- Remove the small control wire from the solenoid (usually a small push-on connector). Note which terminal it's on.
- Remove the heavy battery positive cable nut on the starter’s big terminal. Keep nuts safe.
- If there is an earth/ground strap bolted to the starter, remove it.

5. Remove mounting bolts
- Support the starter with one hand (it’s heavy), remove the starter mounting bolts. There are usually 2–3 bolts. Use penetrating oil if seized.
- Remove starter from engine. Note any shims behind starter — keep them with the starter or mark location.

6. Inspect
- Check pinion gear teeth and housing for damage.
- Rotate the starter pinion by hand — it should move freely into and out of engagement (if it’s a Bendix style). Check for excessive play.
- Inspect body for oil contamination — oil seals leaking on the engine can soak the starter and cause failure.
- Inspect mount bolt threads and engine block holes for damage.

7. Bench test (safely)
- Secure starter in a vise by the housing (soft jaws to avoid crushing).
- Connect heavy jumper cable from battery positive to starter main terminal. Connect battery negative to starter housing (frame). Wear eye protection; keep clear of moving pinion.
- Briefly connect small wire terminal to battery positive to energize solenoid; motor should spin and pinion should extend. If the motor spins but solenoid doesn’t engage, the solenoid is faulty. If nothing happens, likely internal motor failure or broken connections.
- DO NOT run starter for long periods on bench — brief tests only.

8. Replace or rebuild
- Option A: Replace with a new/rebuilt starter. This is the easiest and most reliable method. Ensure correct unit for engine/model.
- Option B: Rebuild: replace brushes, commutator clean, bushings/bearings, solenoid contacts. Requires skill and parts; unless you have experience, replacement is often better.

9. Reinstallation
- Clean mounting area on engine block.
- If any shims were present, reinstall in the exact position. Starter alignment matters to avoid gear damage.
- Mount starter and hand‑thread bolts; tighten evenly. Torque to manufacturer spec (typical range ~35–70 Nm depending on bolt size; check service manual). If no manual, tighten snug and use conservative torque — avoid over‑torquing.
- Reconnect heavy battery cable to starter main stud; install nut and tighten securely. Reconnect small control wire to solenoid. Reattach any ground straps.
- Apply a small dab of dielectric grease on small terminal boot to prevent corrosion (avoid contaminating the main terminal threads with grease that can impede contact).
- Reinstall any removed shields or components.

10. Final checks and test
- Reconnect battery negative terminal last.
- Start vehicle: observe cranking speed and listen for unusual noises (grinding, slow cranking).
- If starter grinds, switch off immediately — pinion and ring gear are not meshing properly; check alignment and shims and ring gear condition.
- Check for battery voltage while cranking — should not sink excessively. If engine cranks slowly, recheck battery and cable connections.

VOLTAGE DROP DIAGNOSTICS (useful checks)
- Measure battery voltage at rest (Vbatt_rest).
- Measure voltage at starter main terminal while cranking (Vstarter_main). Voltage drop = Vbatt_rest - Vstarter_main. Excessive drop (>0.5–1.0 V) suggests poor cable/connection.
- Measure voltage at solenoid small terminal while cranking when key is in START. It should be near battery voltage; if not, trace switch/relay.

TORQUE & BOLT NOTES
- Exact torque values vary by year/engine and bolt size. If you can get the workshop manual, use the specified torque. Common ranges: M10 ≈ 40–60 Nm, M12 ≈ 60–80 Nm. If unsure, tighten bolts securely and check by test running; if bolts were torqued by spec earlier, replace with same torque.

COMMON PITFALLS & TIPS
- Always test battery and cables first. Many “bad starter” calls are battery or connection issues.
- If starter works when cool but not when hot (intermittent after driving), suspect heat‑soak problems or failing internal parts.
- If you smell burnt insulation or see melted wires, investigate and repair wiring harness before installing new starter.
- Keep fasteners and shims organized; misplacing shims can cause misalignment.
- Replace starter mounting bolts if they are stretched or threads are damaged.
- If flywheel ring gear teeth are badly damaged, replacing starter alone will not help — ring gear/flywheel repair needed.

WHEN TO REPLACE VS REBUILD
- Replace if: heavy wear, burnt commutator, severely pitted solenoid contacts, bent pinion, oil contamination, or if low cost of replacement outweighs time/skill to rebuild.
- Rebuild if: minor brush wear and you have the parts/skill; cost and availability of parts make rebuilding economical.

SUMMARY — quick checklist
- Check battery voltage and cables first.
- Check small control wire voltage at solenoid when turning key.
- If battery & wiring OK, remove starter, bench test, and inspect pinion/brushes/solenoid.
- Replace or rebuild starter as needed, reinstall with correct alignment and torque, reconnect wires, test vehicle.
- Address any root causes (oil leaks, corroded cables, bad relay) to prevent repeat failure.

That’s the complete beginner‑friendly walkthrough: what each component is and does, how and why starters fail, diagnostic checks, and step‑by‑step removal, bench test, and replacement. Follow safety steps and consult the vehicle-specific workshop manual for exact bolt torques and starter part numbers for your D‑Max year/engine.
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