Isuzu D-Max 2009 factory workshop and repair manual download pdf

The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002. It shares the exact same system with some General Motors (GM) mid-size trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is additionally used to a rebadged variation of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand, although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market in which they are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was additionally introduced in Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.

Julie Beamer, director of GM Chile announced on March 5, 2008 to their workers of the only remaining automobile factory in Chile would close on July 31. To that day, the only product currently on production on that factory was the Chevrolet D-Max. The information came little after Hugo reduced the import quota for cars in Venezuela, the main export market of Chilean-made Chevrolet D-Max, but GM Chile said on its official statement that the reason behind the end of manufacturing in Arica were the lack of favourable conditions for vehicle production in Chile, and the stiff competition from many other carmakers and countries on Chile's car market.

The Thai-market Colorado is smaller than the North United states model of the exact same name and almost unrelated. In belated January 2006, Chevrolet introduced a G-80 differential lock system as elective for most Colorado trim levels. This feature is not available on the D-Max. The Thai-market Colorado received a minor redesign in late 2007.

Late first quarter of 2008, Chevrolet additionally introduced Colorado 4x2 2.5 with diesel dual fuel system via CNG tank. Switchable between diesel (65) and compressed natural gas (35) as the separated aspect (65:35); moreover additionally can use diesel purely as well. Biodiesel B5 is also acceptable. Location of tank is on the bed behind cab. Available for 2 cabstyles.

In March 2011, Chevrolet revealed the prototype version of all-new Colorado at Bangkok Motor Show, not related anymore to D-Max, shown as Extended cab with rear access system, and some of high-tech stuff, In June 2011, Chevrolet revealed crew cab in adventure concept at Buenos Aires, Argentina (this car also shown at Frankfurt Auto Show on September, 2011), and in July 2011, a Holden version of crew-cab version concept car got its premier at Australian International Motor Show, but the interior of this vehicle looked like manufacturing models any more than 2 concepts before.

In September 9, 2011, General Motors (Thailand) are opening the diesel engine manufacture plant, to make the "Duramax" engine, as the VM Motori rebadge engine (same as old 2-liter diesel Captiva) with 2.5 or 2.8-liter, manual and 2WD, automatic or 4WD. New 2012 Isuzu D-MAX Pickup Truck is actually the Chevy Colorado's Asian Twin.

Isuzu has long abandoned the U.S. Passenger and truck marketplace but it continues to have strong ties with General Motors, which was once its primary stockholder. In 2011, the Japanese automaker revealed its all-new D-MAX pickup truck, which was designed in cooperation with GM and is a sibling model to the 2012 Chevrolet Colorado. Albeit on separate occasions, both pickup truck models were presented in Thailand. On the outside, the new 2012 D-MAX qualities different front and back end styling treatments as well as bespoke trim parts, while inside, the changes over the Colorado are limited to the color options and the instrument panel. The body-on-frame Isuzu D-MAX launches in Thailand with three turbodiesel engines, including a pair of 2.5-liter units producing 115HP and 136HP, and a larger 3.0-liter powerplant with 177-horses.

Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual

1) Quick theory of a planetary gearset (why it matters)
- Components: sun gear (center), planet gears on a carrier, ring (annulus) gear, planet pins/shafts, bearings, thrust washers.
- How it makes ratios: hold or drive any one of the three members (sun, ring, carrier) and drive another → different speed/torque outputs. Clutches and brakes in the gearbox selectively lock/hold members to produce forward/reverse ratios.
- Failure modes: broken/pitted teeth, worn planet pins/bearings, worn thrust washers, ring/sun wear, loss of clearance/endplay, contamination and overheating. These cause noise, slipping, harsh or missing gears, metal debris in fluid and pressure loss.
- Repair goal (theory): restore correct tooth geometry, backlash and axial endplay, bearing preload and clearances so loads transfer through intact gear teeth and bearings, clutches/servos see correct reaction torque, and fluid pressure and sealing are restored.

2) Prepare & confirm (diagnosis and planning)
- Confirm fault: codes, fluid condition (metal flakes, burnt smell), road/bench symptoms (noise, slip, no gear). Pressure tests or stall tests to localize internal damage.
- Acquire factory service data: torque specs, shim/endplay/backlash tolerances, assembly order, fluid type and capacity, special tools.
- Parts: replacement planetary carrier or individual planet gears/sun/ring/bearings/thrusts, new seals/gaskets, filter, fluid, new torque converter seal if removed.

3) Workspace & safety
- Secure vehicle on hoist or level jack stands. Disconnect battery. Have transmission jack, torque wrench, snap-ring tools, press or bearing drivers, pick-up for small parts, clean solvent, lint-free rags. Clean, well-lit area to avoid contamination.

4) Remove transmission (ordered)
1. Drain ATF and record metal content.
2. Remove driveshafts/propshafts, disconnect cooler lines (plug lines), electrical connectors, shift linkages, exhaust or crossmember as needed.
3. Support engine if transmission removal affects mounts.
4. Unbolt bellhousing from engine, support transmission on transmission jack, separate transmission from engine and lower.

Theory note: removing transmission allows access to the internal gear train and prevents further damage to engine/transmission mating surfaces.

5) Disassemble to planetary assembly (ordered)
1. Remove oil pan and filter, then valve body if required to access internal carriers (follow OEM order; retain bolt pattern).
2. Remove intermediate plates, separators and any retaining bolts/circlips holding planetary carrier. Take photos/notes of orientation.
3. Extract planet carrier assembly: undo carrier bolts, remove snap rings, pull planet gears off pins (use press if needed), remove sun gear and ring gear if serviceable separately. Remove bearings and thrust washers.

Theory note: many planet gears are press-fit or retained with snap rings; correct sequence preserves orientation and prevents damaging gear teeth.

6) Inspect & measure (ordered)
- Clean all parts thoroughly. Inspect teeth for pitting, chipped/broken teeth, abrasive wear; inspect planet pins for scoring, bearings for play, races for spalling. Check thrust washers for wear. Inspect transmission case bores for fretting.
- Measure: radial play on bearings, endplay of carrier, gear backlash/contact pattern per OEM specs. Compare to tolerances; if out of spec, plan to replace or install shims.
Theory: small changes in axial clearance or bearing preload shift contact pattern and concentrate load on thin edges, accelerating failure. Replacing bearing and restoring shims restores proper load distribution.

7) Replace and rebuild planetary set (ordered)
1. Replace worn components: install new planet gears, new planet pin bearings/races, replace sun or ring gear if required, new thrust washers and carrier bearings. If the carrier is cracked or journal bores are damaged, replace whole carrier.
2. Press-fit bearings to required seating depth using proper drivers; do not hammer gear teeth. Install new circlips/snap rings to OEM spec.
3. Assemble planets on carrier, fit sun gear and ring gear, then preliminarily check backlash and rotational freedom.
4. Set endplay/backlash: fit shims or thickness washers as specified to achieve OEM backlash and axial endplay. Re-measure and adjust until within spec.
Theory: correct shim selection sets the distance between ring and sun relative positions so teeth mesh across the face width; correct bearing preload prevents micro-movement under load and avoids fretting.

8) Reassemble transmission (ordered)
1. Re-fit the planetary assembly into the gearbox in the correct orientation. Install associated clutches, separators, valve body/pumps/filters in reverse of disassembly, using new gaskets/seals.
2. Reinstall torque converter (ensure correct engagement and seating into pump; count splines rotations and feel engagement). Torque bellhousing bolts to spec. Replace any external seals disturbed during removal.
3. Refit driveshafts, cooler lines, linkages. Refill with manufacturer-specified ATF to the called level after initial warm-up fill procedure.

Theory note: correct torque and seal installation prevent fluid leaks and preserve hydraulic pressures required for clutch application and for clutch packs to hold planetary members.

9) Bench or pressure test before vehicle use
- If available, perform hydraulic pressure check and function test on bench or with vehicle engine idling: cycle through gears to confirm correct application, listen for abnormal noise, check for leaks. Verify fluid temp and level.

10) Refit and road test (ordered)
1. Reinstall transmission to vehicle if it was removed. Torque all fasteners to spec. Reconnect battery.
2. Warm up transmission, check fluid level at operating temperature per OEM method. Road test through all gears under light and medium load. Monitor for noises, slipping, harsh engagement. Re-check for leaks and re-check fluid level after cooling.
Theory: road testing under controlled conditions validates that torque paths, hydraulic timing and gear meshing perform under load, and that new components have seated properly.

11) How exactly the repair fixes the fault (concise physics)
- Replacing worn/broken planet gears, sun or ring gear restores full tooth face width and correct tooth profile so contact stress is distributed across the correct area; this removes localized overloads that caused pitting or breakage.
- New bearings and restored preload/endplay eliminate axial and radial micro-movements that produce fretting and metal debris and ensure the carrier holds gear axes concentric under load.
- Proper shimming restores backlash and tooth contact pattern so the gears transmit torque smoothly rather than shock-loading edges.
- New seals/clean fluid restore hydraulic pressures and cooling/lubrication; removed debris prevents accelerated wear of other components.
- Overall result: torque paths are re-established with correct clearances and preloads so clutches can create the reaction forces needed for each gear ratio without slippage or noise.

12) Additional practical notes (concise)
- Always use OEM specs for shims, torque, clearances and fluid.
- Replace associated wear items (clutch packs, pump seals, filters) if contaminated. Metal debris in the system can rapidly re-damage a rebuilt set if not fully cleaned.
- If damage is extensive or case bores are damaged, replacement of the entire carrier or transmission assembly may be more reliable than partial repair.
- Contamination control and cleanliness during assembly are critical.

This is the ordered theory-driven procedure and why each stage fixes the fault.
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- Straight answer first: the Isuzu D‑Max uses a modern diesel common‑rail fuel system and does not have a carburetor. You cannot “carburetor” it. What you can do as a beginner is perform common maintenance and simple fuel/air system troubleshooting that address the symptoms people historically blamed on carburetors (hard starting, rough idle, poor power, black smoke).

- Symptoms that mimic a “carburetor” problem
- Hard cold starts, long cranking
- Rough idle or stumbling at low rpm
- Loss of power, poor throttle response
- Black smoke, excessive fuel consumption
- Check Engine Light or fault codes

- Basic safety and preparation (tools + use)
- Safety glasses: protect eyes from fuel, debris; wear when working under hood.
- Nitrile or mechanic gloves: protect skin from diesel and oils.
- Shop rags: clean spills and wipe parts.
- Fire extinguisher (ABC type): keep nearby when working with fuel.
- Battery disconnect (12V connector or 10 mm wrench): remove negative terminal to avoid shorts before working on electrical/fuel components. Use the wrench to loosen the nut, pull off terminal.
- Jack and stands (if you must go under the vehicle): use rated jack and stands; never rely on the jack alone.

- Basic hand tools, detailed descriptions and how to use them
- Metric socket set (ratchet, extensions, 8–19 mm sockets): primary tool for removing bolts and clamps. Use the correctly sized socket, turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Extensions help reach deep bolts.
- Torque wrench: ensures bolts (especially glow plugs, fuel lines, pump/injector clamps) are tightened to factory spec; set desired torque and apply until it clicks.
- Combination wrenches (metric): for bolts in tight spaces where a ratchet won’t fit. Match wrench size to nut, pull steadily; avoid rounding heads.
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips): remove clips and hose clamps; use correct tip size to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (needle‑nose and slip‑joint): pull off electrical connectors, clamps, and hold parts. Use needle‑nose for small connectors.
- Fuel filter wrench or strap wrench: removes spin‑on fuel filters without crushing them; wrap the strap and turn counterclockwise.
- Deep socket set for glow plugs (typically 8–10 mm deep): required because glow plugs sit recessed; use ratchet and extension.
- Funnel and catch container: capture drained fuel safely when replacing filters or draining water.
- Flat scraper or gasket scraper: remove old gaskets cleanly when replacing EGR or throttle gaskets.
- Electrical contact cleaner / MAF cleaner (if vehicle has one): clean electrical sensor contacts without damaging them.
- OBD2 code reader / scan tool: reads fault codes to guide diagnosis. Plug into OBD2 port, turn key to ON, read stored codes and look up meanings.
- Torque screwdriver or small torque driver (optional): for small electrical connectors or sensor screws requiring specific torque.

- Additional/professional tools you might need (and why)
- High‑pressure fuel pressure gauge and adapter: diesel common‑rail operates at very high pressures; this gauge is needed to diagnose pump/injector pressure issues. It’s specialized and often not needed for routine maintenance.
- Injector puller / special injector sockets and bleed kit: injectors are seated under high pressure and often require manufacturer tools to remove safely and avoid damage. Use a pro shop for injector removal/replace.
- Diesel fuel system diagnostic tool (shop level): to calibrate or program injectors/ECU after replacements. Professional shops have this.

- Tasks a beginner can do, stepwise bullets with required tools and why
- Inspect and replace the engine air filter
- Tools: flat screwdriver or unclipping by hand, new air filter, shop rag.
- How to use: open airbox clips or remove screws, lift out old filter, vacuum or wipe housing, install new filter seating it properly, re-clasp the box.
- Why: a clogged air filter reduces airflow and can cause power loss and black smoke. Replacement part: OEM air filter element.

- Replace the primary/secondary fuel filter (and drain water)
- Tools: socket set (to remove mounting bracket if needed), fuel filter wrench/strap, catch container, funnel, gloves, rags.
- How to use: relieve ignition (no spark in diesel) — remove fuse for fuel pump or follow vehicle manual to de‑pressurize; place container under filter drain bowl, open drain to remove water, then use filter wrench to loosen spin‑on filter, catch fuel, smear a bit of clean diesel on new filter gasket and hand‑thread new filter, tighten per spec (hand tight + 1/4 turn or torque spec).
- Why: diesel fuel filters trap water/debris; when clogged the engine hesitates, loses power and can damage injectors. Replacement part: OEM fuel filter element/water separator.

- Drain water from water separator (if equipped)
- Tools: catch container, gloves.
- How to use: open drain valve and allow water to drain until mostly clear diesel appears, close valve.
- Why: water causes injector wear/corrosion and poor combustion.

- Check and clean MAF or intake sensors (if present)
- Tools: MAF sensor cleaner (aerosol), screwdriver, rags.
- How to use: remove MAF sensor electrical connector and sensor, spray MAF cleaner on sensing wires or hot film, let dry, reinstall carefully.
- Why: dirty MAF gives wrong airflow signal and rough running.

- Inspect and tighten air intake and turbo hoses
- Tools: screwdriver or socket for clamps, pliers for clips.
- How to use: visually inspect for splits or loosened clamps, use screwdriver/socket to tighten clamps; replace cracked hoses.
- Why: boost leaks cause loss of power and rough running. Replacement parts: intake hose or clamp.

- Check battery condition and clean terminals
- Tools: 10 mm wrench, wire brush or battery terminal cleaner, baking soda/water if corroded, gloves.
- How to use: disconnect negative first, then positive; clean terminals with brush, neutralize corrosion, reconnect positive then negative.
- Why: weak battery causes hard starting. Replacement part: battery if below spec.

- Inspect glow plugs and replace if necessary (basic replacement)
- Tools: deep socket set sized for glow plugs, ratchet, torque wrench, anti‑seize (optional), new glow plugs, dielectric grease.
- How to use: disconnect electrical connector for each glow plug, use deep socket to unscrew glow plug counterclockwise, inspect for carbon and damage; hand‑thread new glow plug and torque to spec, reconnect electrical connectors.
- Why: failed glow plugs cause hard cold starts and rough idle in cold weather. Replacement parts: individual glow plugs or glow plug kit; possibly glow plug relay if codes indicate.

- Read and clear OBD2 fault codes
- Tools: basic OBD2 scan tool.
- How to use: plug into OBD2 port (driver footwell), turn ignition to ON, read codes, record them, look up generic descriptions. Clearing codes may turn off CEL but doesn’t fix underlying issue.
- Why: codes point to fuel injectors, sensors, EGR, or other components that need attention.

- What requires a professional (and why)
- Fuel injector removal, testing, cleaning and replacement
- Why pro: injectors are part of a high‑pressure system (~1000–2000+ bar). Removal and reinstallation require special sockets, injector pullers, calibrated testing benches and calibration/programming. Improper work can damage the rail or engine and cause leaks.
- Replacement parts: fuel injectors, injector seals/o‑rings (always replace when servicing). Have replacements be OEM or high‑quality remanufactured units.

- High‑pressure fuel pump (HPFP) diagnosis/repair and common‑rail pressure problems
- Why pro: involves high pressure fuel lines, special torque specs, and potential ECU interaction. Tools and safety procedures required.
- Replacement parts: HPFP, high‑pressure lines, seals.

- Turbocharger replacement or major EGR system overhaul
- Why pro: turbo removal and EGR cleaning often need disassembly of manifold, specialized gaskets, precise torqueing and possible recalibration.

- Parts that commonly need replacement and why
- Air filter: clogged from dirt — replacement restores airflow.
- Fuel filter/water separator element: traps water and debris — replacement prevents injector damage.
- Glow plugs: wear out — replacement improves cold starts.
- Intake/turbo hoses and clamps: cracking or leaking — replacement restores boost.
- MAF sensor (rare) or sensor connectors: if faulty, replace to restore proper signals.
- Fuel injectors/HPFP (professional): if diagnostics show failed injectors or pump.
- EGR gasket or EGR valve (if leaking or stuck): cleaning/replace fixes rough idle/smoke.

- Quick checklist to follow before you pay a shop
- Read fault codes with an OBD2 scanner.
- Replace air filter and fuel filter; drain water separator.
- Inspect intake/turbo hoses and clamps.
- Check battery voltage and glow plug operation.
- If symptoms persist or codes indicate injectors, HPFP, or turbo/EGR issues — have a professional diagnose and repair.

- Final practical notes (no extra chatter)
- Do not attempt injector or HPFP work if you’re not trained; high pressure diesel systems are dangerous.
- Use OEM or recommended parts for fuel system components.
- Keep the work area clean, collect spilled diesel, and dispose of old filters and fuel safely per local regulations.
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