The Holden Rodeo is a utility vehicle (pickup truck) that was sold in Australasia (Australia and New Zealand) by Holden, a General Motors (GM) subsidiary. Introduced in 1980, the Rodeo was built by Isuzu over three our generations, but in 2008 was renamed "Holden Colorado".Prior to the launch of the Holden Rodeo, General Motors-Holden's had imported the first generation Japanese market Isuzu Faster into Australasia under the names "Chevrolet LUV" (1972-1977) and "Isuzu LUV" (1977-1980). At the Australasian release of the second generation Faster in December 1980, General Motors-Holden's when again introduced a new name Holden Rodeo assigning it the model code KB and thus becoming the first generation Holden Rodeo.
Isuzu in Japan released the redesigned Faster in May 1988, issued and adopted by Holden in August 1988 as the second generation TF series Rodeo. Although Japanese sales of the Isuzu Faster ceased in October 1994, it remained in production until general exports began in June 2003 of its Thai-produced replacing, the Isuzu D-Max which established in its home market of Thailand in May 2002. Australasian earnings started in March 2003, earlier than other export markets, as the third generation RA series Holden Rodeo. At this point Holden retired the long-running TF model. Holden maintained sales of the RA generation until rebranding the Rodeo as "Holden Colorado" in July 2008. This was a result of the GM-Isuzu split resulting in Holden losing the right to use the "Rodeo" name.The Isuzu D-Max is a pickup truck built by automaker Isuzu since 2002. It shares the same platform with some General Motors (GM) mid-size trucks in the United States as the Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon and Isuzu i-Series. The Chevrolet Colorado name is also applied to a rebadged version of the D-Max in the Middle East and Thailand, although not identical to the American version. The original D-Max is sold alongside the Chevrolet Colorado in the Thai market exactly where they are both built. In Australasia between 2003 and 2008, the D-Max was marketed as the Holden Rodeo, but has since been relaunched as the Holden Colorado. The Isuzu D-Max itself was also introduced in Australia during 2008, selling alongside the Holden offering. in the United Kingdom, the D-Max is offered there as the Isuzu Rodeo.
In 2002, the D-Max was prepared for a world premiere in Thailand. This location was selected because GM-Isuzu had recently decided to shut their small truck assembly plant in Japan and move their joint operation to Thailand. The D-Max is available in various models. The Spark (single cab) (EX) is available only as a 4x2, with 3 configurations between taxi chassis, long bed with power steering and without. SpaceCabs (extended cab), and Cab4s (double cab) can be split into 2 major configurations: standard height 4x2s (SX, SL, SLX), and 4x4s (LS and S) with the "Rodeo" name instead of SpaceCab. Crew cabs are all sold with the same Cab4 name (Cab4 models became available late in last quarter). All are built and sold alongside the pretty much identical Chevrolet Colorado which had debuted in belated starting quarter of 2004.Engine choices for that year till end of third quarter of 2004 derived from its direct predecessor: 4JH1-T 3.0 and 4JA1-T 2.5.
Hi-Lander 3.0 (lifted 4x2), trim style became available in late 2003, and ground clearance equals that of the 4x4 models. There are only 2 cab designs to choose between. This makes Isuzu the third manufacturer in Thailand to begin selling lifted 4x2 pickups (after Ford and Toyota).In October 2004, Isuzu introduced the DDi iTEQ common-rail diesel engine family for the D-Max. The first engine to appear had been the 3.0 4JJ1-TC 146 PS (107 kW; 144 hp), however since then, a design change in the front end of the car has forced engine alterations. Additionally, new MUA-5H 5-speed manual transmission also introduced.During the first quarter of 2005, a 2.5 4JK1-TC 116 PS (85 kW; 114 hp), the second DDi iTEQ engine, was introduced and offered as economical choice to substitute their aging predecessor (4JA1-T was concurrently available for that year only). A mid-cycle refresh brought numerous models fitted with a new position bumper that included an "instant spoiler" underneath, 4x4 Hi-Lander and models's suspensions had been raised up 25 millimeters extra.
In the third quarter of 2006, the D-Max received a minor redesign and the introduction of a third DDi iTEQ engine, 3.0 4JJ1-TCX. This engine is a modified 4JJ1-TC, incorporating a new Variable Valve Geometry Turbo (VVGS). The extra power warranted an introduction of brand new transmissions as well: the MUX 5-Speed manual and MaxMatic-III automatic transmission. All designs equipped with Xenon headlamps had been changed to projector headlamps instead. Also introduced was the new "Hexapod-plot" interior. Different DDi iTEQ engines were additionally modified a bit for extra efficiency and power.In 2007, Isuzu celebrated its 50th anniversary of its long history of commercial activities in Thailand with "Gold Series" models sold for the 2008 model year. For the Isuzu D-Max and MU-7, all models are "Gold Series" only. Included in the package, every model will get a Gold Isuzu badge at the front sides, and more lavish interior features are included as well. All SLXs, Hi-Landers, and LS 4x4s feature gold Isuzu badges in 3 locations total: front grille, rear tailgate, and on the steering wheel incorporated in a gold ring. The 4x4 S model was dropped. New "Wide Vision" blind-spot rear view mirror available to some models. The Hi-Lander Cab4 model with the VVGS turbodiesel engine became available for the first time. The 4x4 models get a new front bumper design with chrome accents. Aan extra 3 new exterior colors have been added, but only to select designs. Also added was the choice of a 2.5l 4-cylinder engine in LS 4x4 and Hi-Lander models.
During the middle of the first quarter of 2008, Rodeo LS and Hi-Lander SpaceCab were also installed with the 3.0 VVGS Turbodiesel engine to fill all the remaining gaps in lineup.Early fourth quarter of 2008, Isuzu introduces D-Max Platinum models for 2009 to replace the outgoing Gold Series. New exterior hues to the selected models. LS 4x4 and Hi-Lander was given brand new chrome; fascia on LS 4x4 and semi platinum-silver on Hi-Lander. Minor-modified headlamps and new fog lamps for platinum look. Revamped fenders and side trims with chrome trim. 4x2 SLX and SX derived fascias from 4x4/Hi-Lander (before Platinum's fascia) and revamped side trims without chrome trim. Chrome fascia for 3.0 SLX models and color-keyed fascia for SX. Ideal heads of 3 DDi iTEQ engines changed from gold to platinum. Some models dropped 4JJ1-TC 3.0l engine. All retooled to be acceptable with Biodiesel B5. Interior changed to platinum tone. Cab4 LS additionally featured new sumptous leather upholstery in black. Several highline models featured Platinum Entertainment package (by Kenwood): included DVD/VCD/MP3/DiVX player and 6.1" compatible; touch-screen with iPod, Television, Bluetooth tuner and navigation system. Also also featured rear view camera for reverse assist (Platinum Vision). All SpaceCab models showcased new middle pillars called Safety Pillar Cab; pillars and door beams larger and thicker. Not all Cab4 models received retooled rear suspension called Super Flex Plus suspension. Badges and rings which were when gold are nowadays in silver/platinum as well. Spark EX also received new gauge and indicator. D-Max Platinum models commenced on sale from 15 October.
Middle of September 2009, Isuzu introduces D-Max Super Platinum models. SL model was dropped. Exterior featuring new colors, highline SLX 4x2 models received same fascia and front bumper as Hi-Lander / LS 4x4 style, new 16" rims and newer designs of alloy wheels for SLX / Hi-Lander / LS 4x4, newer rear bumper, and new "Super Platinum" marque at tailgate. Models with 3.0 VVGS Turbo also was given light silver decorate at scoop rim. LS 4x4 models received skid plate attached under bumper in brighter silver, latest side step. Highline Hello Lander / LS 4x4 models have newer style blind spot rear observe mirrors, and new short-plot antenna. Hexapod-plot interior of highline 4x2 models turned tone to black modern graphite with some silver design, fabric seaters in latest fabric style and darker grey tone which designed to be in same tone as door panels. While highline Cab4 models updated the interior by 2-tone plot: graphite for console and beige for seaters. And for the first occasion ever in one tonner segment, some highline models equipped with i-GENii (Genius Exploring Network Interactive Intelligence) GPS touchscreen navigation system as standard equipment right out from the plant; featuring Thai language menu and Thai voice assistance. People can always update with both database and map. Also, built-in Bluetooth included.
Holden Colorado / Rodeo 2007-2012 Factory Service Workshop Manual
Why: The flywheel is the heavy metal disc bolted to the back of the crankshaft. It stores rotational energy, gives the starter something to turn, and provides the friction surface the clutch disc squeezes against. Resurfacing restores a flat, clean friction face so the clutch bites evenly. If the face is glazed, scored, heat‑spotted or warped, the clutch will chatter, slip, judder or wear out quickly. Resurfacing is like planing a warped tabletop back to perfectly flat so a sanding block (the clutch) makes full contact again.
Brief theory (how the system works)
- Engine crank turns the flywheel. Flywheel stores momentum and smooths pulses between combustion events (like a heavy flywheel on a bicycle).
- The clutch pressure plate clamps the clutch friction disc to the flywheel face. When clamped, engine torque transmits through the clutch disc to the transmission input shaft.
- When you disengage the clutch, the pressure plate lifts off and the disc releases the flywheel so the engine can spin freely.
- The flywheel surface must be flat, clean, and within thickness limits and concentric to the crankshaft flange. Imperfections cause uneven friction, vibration, heat, clutch slippage, or grabbing.
Components you will see and what they do (detailed)
- Crankshaft flange: the rear of the crank where the flywheel bolts on. Has pilot surface and bolt holes/dowel pins for location.
- Flywheel: heavy circular plate with a friction face (rear), crank bolt holes, sometimes dowel pin holes, and a ring gear around the edge for the starter.
- Ring gear (starter ring): gear teeth on the flywheel outer diameter engaged by starter motor; can be replaced separately if damaged.
- Flywheel bolts/studs: secure the flywheel to the crank. Often torque-to-yield or torque+angle in modern engines—replace if specified.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: sits in the crankshaft or flywheel and supports the transmission input shaft tip.
- Clutch disc (friction/liner): rides between flywheel and pressure plate; has friction material on both sides.
- Pressure plate: clamps the disc to the flywheel; bolted to the flywheel (on some OEM designs pressure plate bolts to flywheel or bellhousing?), but in most modern setups the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel.
- Release (throw-out) bearing: slides on input shaft to actuate the pressure plate fingers.
- Clutch fork / hydraulic slave or concentric slave: mechanical means to move the release bearing.
- Bellhousing: covers the clutch and joins engine to transmission; houses the starter engagement area.
- Transmission input shaft: splined shaft that the clutch disc splines onto; transmits torque into gearbox.
- Rear main oil seal: seals crankshaft at the rear. When flywheel is off, you get access to inspect/replace it.
- Dowel pins: locate flywheel to the crank accurately.
Tools, supplies & measurement equipment
- Service manual for your model/year (must have torque specs, removal sequence, clearances).
- Jack(s) and axle stands or ramps; transmission jack or second person; engine support if engine must be supported.
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, extensions, impact (use with caution), screwdrivers, pry bars.
- Flywheel holding tool or locking pin/wrench to prevent rotation during bolt removal/installation.
- Torque wrench and possibly angle gauge.
- Clutch alignment tool (fits disc splines to align to input shaft).
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack with a block to support transmission.
- Dial indicator for runout measurement (if you plan to measure).
- Feeler gauges or straight edge for flatness checks.
- Cleaning solvent (brake cleaner), lint-free rags, wire brush.
- Thread locker (manufacturer spec), replacement flywheel bolts if required, new pilot bearing, new rear main seal if recommended.
- If resurfacing yourself: flywheel lathe or bench grinder with correct jig — not recommended for beginners; better to use a specialized machine shop.
- Personal protective equipment (gloves, eye protection).
Safety first (explicit)
- Work on a level surface; block wheels; disconnect battery.
- Support vehicle securely on stands — never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Transmissions are heavy and awkward — use a transmission jack or two people and proper support.
- Engine may need support from an engine hoist or support bar if you remove the transmission and mount points are used to hold engine position.
- Flywheel is heavy — don’t drop it on hands or feet.
- Use proper torque sequence and replacement hardware as required to avoid catastrophic failure.
Step-by-step procedure (general for Holden Colorado / Rodeo family — adapt to exact year/engine using factory manual)
Overview: remove transmission, remove clutch assembly, remove flywheel, assess, send flywheel for resurfacing or replace, reinstall with new hardware/seals and proper alignment.
A. Preparation
1. Read the factory service manual for your exact model/year: bolt torques, torque‑to‑yield instructions, hydraulic connections, transmission removal notes, and whether flywheel bolts are one-time-use.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
3. Lift car and secure on stands. Remove transmission access items (driveshafts/prop shaft on 4WD, exhaust as required, skid plates).
4. Drain transmission oil if necessary and remove shift linkage, electrical connectors, starter motor, and any wiring harnesses blocking removal.
B. Remove transmission
1. Support the engine if required (some setups use the transmission as an engine support point).
2. Support the transmission on a transmission jack.
3. Unbolt slave cylinder or clutch hydraulics — plug lines or prevent fluid loss by capping.
4. Remove bellhousing bolts (note their lengths and positions). Slide transmission back carefully until input shaft clears the clutch disc splines. Pull transmission down and out.
C. Remove clutch assembly and inspect
1. Mark the orientation of the pressure plate relative to the flywheel if you like, but you’ll normally replace the whole clutch kit.
2. Loosen pressure plate bolts in a star pattern gradually to avoid warping. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
3. Inspect clutch disc (glazing, worn splines), pressure plate (warped, broken fingers), release bearing (smooth operation), pilot bearing/bushing, and input shaft splines (wear or scoring).
4. Check the flywheel surface for heat spots, cracks, scoring, burn marks, or lip at the outer edge. Run your finger over the surface for steps or grooves (careful — may be sharp).
D. Remove flywheel
1. Remove starter if it interferes.
2. Remove flywheel bolts in a star pattern to avoid bending the crank flange. Hold the flywheel with a holding tool or secure with an assistant; be ready as the flywheel can fall when last bolt is removed.
3. Inspect the crank flange and rear main oil seal. If the rear main seal shows wear or oil, replace it now while things are apart (far easier than later).
E. Decide: resurface or replace
- If there are light glaze, shallow heat discoloration, or minor scoring and the flywheel thickness and runout are within specs, resurfacing is OK.
- If there are deep cracks, heavy heat checking (heat cracks), broken teeth, or the machined removal would reduce thickness beyond minimum, replace the flywheel.
- If flywheel is a dual-mass type (DMF), DO NOT surface — DMFs are not field-machinable; replace if faulty. Many modern Holden/Isuzu variants used single-mass steel flywheels; check your model.
F. Measuring tolerances (what a shop checks)
- Runout (axial wobble) checked with a dial indicator on the mounted fixture; tolerance typically small (fractions of a mm). Factory spec must be checked in manual.
- Flatness — a straight edge will reveal high/low spots. Shops remove only what is necessary to restore flatness.
- Minimum thickness — measured and compared to service limit. If resurfacing removes more than allowed, replace.
- After resurfacing, flywheel faces are parallel and concentric; ring gear end runout and teeth alignment checked.
G. Resurfacing process (what the machine shop will do)
- Mount flywheel on a dedicated flywheel lathe or brake lathe fixture to ensure concentricity and no additional runout.
- Skim cut the friction surface evenly, removing minimal material to eliminate hot spots, glazing and scoring.
- Maintain the correct chamfer on the ring gear edge and any reference marks.
- Replace or peen in the ring gear if needed (or replace flywheel).
- Re-balance if required — some engines require dynamic balancing after material removal.
- Check and document thickness and runout; give you the measurements.
H. Reassembly (key points)
1. Clean mating surfaces: crank flange and flywheel face. Use brake cleaner and lint-free cloth.
2. If you removed the rear main seal, fit new one carefully per manual—use correct tool and the proper amount of oil or sealant if specified.
3. Fit flywheel: align dowel pins, hand‑thread all bolts first. Use new bolts if manufacturer requires, or re-use only if permitted. Apply thread locker if specified.
4. Torque flywheel bolts to factory sequence and spec. If the engine uses torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts, replace bolts and use the angle/tightening procedure specified.
5. If required, check flywheel runout after bolting.
6. Fit pilot bearing/bushing (press or tap gently). Use a new one if recommended.
7. Install clutch disc and pressure plate: use alignment tool to centre the disc on the input shaft spline. Tighten pressure plate bolts gradually in a star pattern to correct torque.
8. Replace release bearing (always replace when clutch is out). Inspect or replace clutch fork or concentric slave as needed.
9. Reinstall transmission: carefully slide it in, ensuring splines engage and transmission sits flush to bellhousing before bolting.
10. Reconnect hydraulics, starter, driveshafts, exhaust, electrical, and refill any fluids removed.
11. Bleed clutch hydraulics if a hydraulic slave or master was opened.
12. Reconnect battery.
I. Break-in and testing
- Road test gently to bed in the new/ resurfaced surface and new clutch components. Avoid heavy loads, towing, or slipping clutch for the first few hundred kilometers.
- Listen for noise, check for judder or slipping, and recheck gearbox mount bolts and flywheel bolts after initial breaking-in if manufacturer advises.
What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Warped or cracked flywheel left in service: leads to clutch chatter and quick wear. Avoid by measuring and replacing if beyond spec.
- Resurfaced too thin: reduces flywheel mass and may disrupt crank balance and cause premature failure; shops measure thickness and will tell you if it's under minimum.
- Warped/cracked ring gear or starter engagement issues: inspect ring gear teeth; replace ring gear or flywheel if damaged.
- Cross‑threaded or improperly torqued flywheel bolts: can shear bolts or loosen under load—always use correct torque/angle and new bolts if TTY.
- Wrong torque sequence or single‑side tightening of pressure plate bolts: can warp the pressure plate. Always tighten in star pattern gradually.
- Contamination: oil or grease on flywheel or clutch disc ruins friction material—clean carefully and replace the clutch disc if contaminated.
- Not replacing pilot bearing or release bearing: these are cheap insurance; worn pilot bearing causes input shaft misalignment and clutch judder.
- Incorrect clutch alignment: transmission won’t slide in; forcing it can damage splines—use alignment tool and ensure smooth engagement.
- Forgetting to replace rear main seal: will cause oil contamination of new clutch—replace while accessible.
- Unbalanced flywheel after resurfacing: causes vibration—request balancing if any mismatch or if recommended.
Quick analogies
- Flywheel = heavy pendulum or bicycle wheel: stores momentum, smooths irregular push strokes of the engine.
- Resurfacing = planing a wooden tabletop: remove the high/low spots so sandpaper (the clutch) contacts evenly.
- Clutch disc = brake pad that needs a flat, clean rotor (flywheel) to work well.
Final practical tips (no fluff)
- Always get the factory service manual for exact specs for your model/year.
- If you’re a beginner, remove the flywheel and take it to a reputable machine shop for inspection/resurfacing. Give them your make/model and ask for thickness/runout measurements and whether the job is within service limits.
- Replace clutch kit components (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) as a set when you remove the transmission. Cheap insurance.
- Replace flywheel bolts if specified. Follow torque and angle instructions exactly.
- Replace rear main seal if anywhere near leaking.
- Don’t attempt to resurface a dual mass flywheel — replace it.
- If the job makes you uncomfortable at any point (heavy lifting, aligning transmission), get help from an experienced tech.
That’s the full picture: what each part does, why resurfacing is needed, how the process is done, exactly what a shop measures, and the failure modes to avoid. Follow the factory manual for bolt torques and special procedures; if unsure, use a specialist for machining and balancing.
rteeqp73
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rteeqp73
Replacing the clutch release bearing in a Holden Colorado/Rodeo involves understanding its role and the symptoms of failure. The clutch release bearing (also known as the throw-out bearing) is crucial in the clutch system, as it disengages the clutch when the driver presses the pedal, allowing for smooth gear changes.
### Theory of Operation:
1. **Function**: When the clutch pedal is pressed, the release bearing pushes against the pressure plate's fingers, disengaging the clutch disc from the flywheel. This allows the engine to rotate separately from the transmission.
2. **Failure Symptoms**: A failing release bearing may produce grinding or squeaking noises when the clutch pedal is pressed, difficulty in shifting gears, or a feeling of resistance in the clutch pedal. This occurs due to wear, lack of lubrication, or damage to the bearing surfaces.
### Replacement Process:
1. **Preparation**: Ensure the vehicle is safely lifted and secured. Disconnect the battery to prevent any electrical issues.
2. **Accessing the Clutch Assembly**:
- Remove the transmission from the vehicle. This often involves disconnecting the driveshaft, supporting the transmission, and unbolting it from the engine.
- This step is essential because the release bearing is positioned on the input shaft of the transmission, making it inaccessible without removing the transmission.
3. **Removing the Old Release Bearing**:
- Once the transmission is out, detach the release bearing from the clutch fork or the input shaft, depending on the design.
- Inspect for wear or damage to confirm the cause of the symptoms.
4. **Installing the New Release Bearing**:
- Apply any necessary lubricant to the new bearing (if required) and install it onto the clutch fork or input shaft.
- Ensure it is seated correctly to avoid misalignment, which can lead to premature failure.
5. **Reassembly**:
- Reinstall the clutch assembly and the transmission. This involves aligning the transmission to the engine and securing it with bolts.
- Reconnect the driveshaft and any other components that were removed.
6. **Testing**:
- After reassembly, reconnect the battery and test the clutch operation. Ensure the pedal feels smooth and the vehicle shifts gears without issue.
### How It Fixes the Fault:
Replacing the clutch release bearing addresses the symptoms of noise and shifting difficulty by restoring the proper function of the clutch engagement and disengagement process. A new bearing ensures that the clutch pedal operates smoothly, allowing the driver to shift gears effortlessly. Additionally, it prevents further damage to the clutch system, ensuring longevity and reliable vehicle operation.
rteeqp73
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