The business traces its roots returning to the founding of Tokyo Gas markets providers in 1910. In 1910 Chiyoda Gas Co. was established and competed fiercely against incumbent Tokyo fuel business for fuel lighting consumers. Tokyo fuel Industry is a parts provider for Chiyoda gasoline however it is beaten and joined into Tokyo petrol in 1912. Dropping their biggest customer, Tokyo petrol Industry Co. broadened their products including digital section, and rebranded it self as Tokyo fuel and Electric Industry , TG&E and had been usually abbreviated as Gasuden. It created their very first automobile in 1917, the Model TGE "A-Type" vehicle. In 1937, TG&E joined their automobile division thereupon of car business Co., Ltd. and Kyodo Kokusan K.K., to make Tokyo car markets Co., Ltd., with TG&E as a shareholder. Four years later, the business changed their name to Diesel engine business Co., Ltd., which will in the course of time being Isuzu Motors Limited.
These 12 months (1942), the new entity of Hino Heavy Industry Co., Ltd. spun it self out from Diesel engine markets Co., Ltd., therefore the Hino title was created. During World War II, Hino manufactured kind 1 Ho-Ha half-track and kind 1 Ho-Ki armored employees service when it comes to Imperial Japanese Army. Following end of World War II, the company had to end making big diesel machines for marine applications, and with the signing regarding the treaty, the business fallen the "heavier" from its name and formally concentrated from the heavy-duty trailer-trucks, buses and diesel machines markets, as Hino business Co., Ltd. The organization took their name from the area of its head office in Hino town within Tokyo prefecture.
To sharpen its advertising focus to consumers, in 1948, the company included title "Diesel" in order to become Hino Diesel business Co., Ltd. In 1950 the heavy-duty TH10 had been launched, built with the all-new 7-liter DS10 diesel motor. An eight-tonner, this is significantly bigger than present Japanese vehicles which had seldom already been designed for significantly more than 6,000 kg (13,230 lb) payload.
In 1953, Hino registered the personal vehicle markets, by manufacturing Renaults under licence, as well as in 1961 it started building its Contessa 900 sedan with an 893cc rear-mounted system, and a vehicle known as the Hino Briska aided by the Contessa motor somewhat increased and put in right in front with back wheel drive. The Italian stylist Giovanni Michelotti redesigned the Contessa range in 1964 with a 1300 cc rear-mounted motor. Fed by two SU means carburettors, this evolved 60 hp (44 kW) inside sedan and 70 hp (51 kW) in coup variation. But Hino stopped personal vehicle production very quickly in 1967 after joining the Toyota group. In 1963, the Hamura factory began procedures, and focused on commercial vehicle and coach manufacture.
Hino Trucks are also assembled in Portugal and in Canada. Wall-flow diesel particulate filters frequently eliminate 85percent or more for the soot, and under particular problems can achieve soot removal efficiencies approaching 100%. Some filters tend to be single-use, designed for disposal and replacement when packed with built up ash. Other people are designed to burn up the built up particulate either passively by using a catalyst or by energetic means eg a fuel burner which heats the filter to soot burning conditions. This might be attained by motor programs to perform (when the filter was full) in a manner that elevates exhaust temperatures, together with an extra gasoline injector in exhaust stream that injects gasoline to react with a catalyst factor to burn off accumulated soot within the DPF filter, or through other means. This will be referred to as filter regeneration. Cleaning is also needed as part of periodic repair, and it also needs to be done very carefully in order to avoid harming the filter. Failure of fuel injectors or turbochargers leading to contamination associated with the filter with raw diesel or engine oil also can warrant cleaning. The regeneration procedure happen at roadway speeds more than can generally speaking feel gained on town streets; cars driven exclusively at lowest rates in metropolitan traffic can need periodic trips at higher rates to clean out of the DPF. If the driver ignores the warning light and waits too-long to operate the car above 60 km/h (40 mph), the DPF cannot replenish properly, and proceeded procedure past that time may ruin the DPF entirely so that it needs to be changed. Some new diesel engines, namely those set up in fusion vehicles, also can play understanding labeled as a Parked Regeneration, where engine increases RPM to around 1400 while parked, to increase the heat associated with exhaust.
Diesel motors emit a variety of particles during burning of the fuel/air blend as a result of partial combustion. The composition of the particles varies widely based mostly on engine type, years, additionally the emissions specs your motor was made to satisfy. Two-stroke diesel engines build more particulate per unit of power than do four-stroke diesel machines, while they burn off the fuel-air combine less completely.
Diesel particulate question caused by the incomplete burning of diesel gasoline brings soot (black colored carbon) particles. These particles consist of small nanoparticles---smaller than a-one micrometre (one micron). Soot alongside particles from diesel motors aggravate the particulate thing pollution in the air as they are bad for fitness.
Brand new particulate filters can capture from 30per cent to more than 95per cent of this harmful soot. With an ideal diesel particulate filter (DPF), soot emissions may be decreased to 0.001 g/km or less.
The caliber of the gas additionally influences the forming of these particles. Like, a higher sulfur information diesel creates most particles. Reduced sulfur fuel brings less particles, and allows utilization of particulate filters. The shot stress of diesel furthermore affects the formation of good particles.
The diesel motor (also known as a compression-ignition or CI motor), called after Rudolf Diesel, is an interior combustion motor for which ignition regarding the gasoline try brought on by the elevated temperatures for the air in cylinder as a result of the technical compression (adiabatic compression). This contrasts with spark-ignition machines such as for example a petrol system (fuel motor) or fuel system (using a gaseous fuel instead of petrol), designed to use a spark plug to ignite an air-fuel mixture.
Diesel engines efforts by compressing only the air. This advances the air heat within the cylinder to such a high degree that atomised diesel gasoline injected to the burning chamber ignites in an instant. With the fuel becoming inserted in to the air just before burning, the dispersion associated with the gasoline are irregular; this will be called a heterogeneous air-fuel mixture. The torque a diesel engine creates are managed by manipulating air ratio; as opposed to throttling the intake atmosphere, the diesel engine hinges on changing the total amount of gasoline which inserted, plus the air ratio is generally high.
The diesel engine has the greatest thermal efficiency (system performance) of any useful internal or external combustion motor because high expansion ratio and inherent slim burn which enables heat dissipation because of the extra environment. A little efficiency reduction can be avoided compared to two-stroke non-direct-injection gas motors since unburned gas isn't present at device overlap therefore no fuel goes directly from the intake/injection into fatigue. Low-speed diesel machines (as found in boats alongside applications in which general system body weight are fairly unimportant) can attain efficient efficiencies of up to 55percent.
Diesel engines is designed as either two-stroke or four-stroke series. They were originally utilized as a more efficient replacement fixed steam machines. Because the 1910s they have been used in submarines and ships. Use within locomotives, vehicles, heavy equipment and electrical energy generation flowers used later on. In the 1930s, they slowly begun to be utilized in some automobiles. Considering that the 1970s, the application of diesel engines in larger on-road and off road automobiles in america has grown. Based on Konrad Reif, the EU typical for diesel vehicles makes up 50 % of newly registered automobiles.
Society's biggest diesel motors invest solution are 14-cylinder, two-stroke watercraft diesel motors; they emit a maximum energy of almost 100 MW each.
The diesel internal-combustion motor is different through the fuel powered Otto period by using very squeezed hot-air to ignite the gas without making use of a spark-plug (compression ignition in place of spark ignition).
In diesel system, best atmosphere are initially introduced in to the burning chamber. The air is then squeezed with a compression proportion typically between 15:1 and 23:1. This high-compression causes the temperature associated with air to go up. At about the the surface of the compression swing, fuel was injected directly into the compressed-air within the burning chamber. This might be into a (typically toroidal) void when you look at the the top of piston or a pre-chamber depending upon the design regarding the system. The gas injector ensures that the gas try separated into smaller droplets, hence the gas are distributed uniformly. Heat for the compressed-air vaporises gasoline through the area of this droplets. The vapour is then ignited by the temperatures through the compressed air in the combustion chamber, the droplets consistently vaporise from their surfaces and burn, becoming smaller and smaller, until all gasoline in droplets was burnt. Burning starts at a substantially continual force throughout the preliminary area of the energy stroke. The start of vaporisation produces a delay before ignition while the characteristic diesel knocking sound whilst the vapour achieves ignition temperatures and results in an abrupt rise in stress above the piston (maybe not revealed from the P-V signal drawing). Whenever combustion is full the combustion fumes increase given that piston descends more; the high pressure into the cylinder pushes the piston downward, supplying power to the crankshaft.
Plus the high-level of compression allowing combustion to occur without an independent ignition program, increased compression ratio considerably increases the system's performance. Enhancing the compression ratio in a spark-ignition motor in which gas and atmosphere were combined before entry to your cylinder is restricted because of the need certainly to lessen harmful pre-ignition. Since only air was squeezed in a diesel motor, and gasoline is certainly not introduced into the cylinder until immediately before top dead-centre (TDC), early detonation is not an issue and compression ratios are a lot greater.
The p--V diagram are a simplified and idealised representation associated with the events associated with a diesel engine period, arranged to illustrate the similarity with a Carnot period. Beginning at 1, the piston are at bottom dead centre and both valves is closed in the beginning of the compression stroke; the cylinder includes atmosphere at atmospheric force. Between 1 and 2 air are compressed adiabatically -- this is certainly without temperatures transfer to or through the environment -- because of the rising piston. (it is just approximately real since there will be some heat trade aided by the cylinder wall space.) During this compression, the quantity was paid off, the pressure and heat both rise. At or slightly before 2 (TDC) gasoline are inserted and burns off within the compressed hot air. Substance energy is introduced and also this constitutes an injection of thermal power (temperature) in to the compressed petrol. Combustion and home heating take place between 2 and 3. In this interval the stress remains constant considering that the piston descends, additionally the volume increases; the temperatures rises because of the vitality of combustion. At 3 gasoline injections and burning are full, in addition to cylinder includes gas at a higher temperature than at 2. Between 3 and 4 this hot fuel expands, once more about adiabatically. Tasks are complete on the system to which the motor was connected. With this development period the quantity of this gas goes up, and its temperature and force both autumn. At 4 the exhaust device opens, therefore the stress drops abruptly to atmospheric (around). That is unresisted growth no helpful work is done by it. Ideally the adiabatic development should continue, expanding the line 3--4 to the right until the stress drops to that of the surrounding atmosphere, however the reduced effectiveness caused by this unresisted expansion are justified because of the practical problems involved with recovering it (the system will have to become much bigger). After the orifice associated with the fatigue valve, the exhaust swing follows, but this (and also the following induction stroke) are not shown on the diagram. If shown, they might become represented by a low-pressure cycle in the bottom associated with the drawing. At 1 it is assumed that fatigue and induction shots being finished, therefore the cylinder was once more full of atmosphere. The piston-cylinder system absorbs power between 1 and 2 -- here is the services necessary to compress the atmosphere when you look at the cylinder, and is given by technical kinetic energy kept in the flywheel regarding the engine. Perform result is completed by the piston-cylinder combo between 2 and 4. the essential difference between these two increments of work is the indicated perform production per pattern, and it is represented because of the location enclosed by the p--V loop. The adiabatic expansion is in a greater stress number than that of the compression because fuel inside cylinder are hotter during expansion than during compression. It really is as a result that loop has a finite area, and net result of jobs during a cycle are good.
- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, heavy-duty gloves, long sleeves, and hearing protection when using power tools.
- Work on a cold engine and allow exhaust components to cool fully; exhaust manifolds retain heat for a long time.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental cranking or electrical shorts.
- Use jack stands or a vehicle lift — never rely on a jack alone. Block wheels and chock rear wheels on RWD vehicles.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby if you will be heating or welding.
- Diagnostic signs that the exhaust manifold needs service
- Loud ticking/snapping on cold start or under load near the front/top of the engine.
- Soot or black carbon around manifold-to-head joint, gasket area, or cracked cast iron.
- Reduced engine performance, turbo lag, or unusual exhaust odor.
- Visible cracks, broken studs, warped mating surface, or blown gasket.
- Basic tools you said you already have (description + how to use)
- Safety glasses: protect eyes from debris and sparks.
- Gloves: protect from sharp edges and hot parts.
- Basic hand socket set (metric): six-point deep and shallow sockets for bolts and nuts; use a ratchet handle to break small bolts loose, switch to breaker bar for stuck fasteners.
- Ratchet: use for final removal after breaker bar/penetrating oil has freed fasteners; avoid high torque on ratchets.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for clamps, sensor connectors and heat shield clips; use proper size to avoid camming out.
- Wire brush/steel brush: remove rust and carbon from surfaces; use by scrubbing mating surfaces and bolt threads.
- Plastic or metal scraper: remove old gasket material; use carefully to avoid gouging the mating surface.
- Extra tools strongly recommended or required (detailed description, how to use, why required)
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Kroil)
- How to use: spray liberally on nuts and studs, let soak several hours or overnight, reapply as needed.
- Why: frees seized studs/nuts on long-exposed cast-iron bolts.
- Breaker bar (long-handled)
- How to use: attach socket and apply slow, steady force. Position to avoid sudden breakage. Use cheater bars only with caution.
- Why: delivers leverage to break stubborn bolts without damaging ratchet.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 1/2" drive for manifold bolts)
- How to use: set required torque; snug bolts in correct sequence to specified torque; click sound indicates set torque reached.
- Why: ensures correct clamp load on gaskets and prevents bolt stretch or manifold distortion.
- Impact gun (air or 12V) — optional but helpful
- How to use: use appropriate impact sockets, short bursts; be careful not to round off nuts on studs.
- Why: removes stubborn nuts faster; use gently on old studs to avoid snapping them off.
- Deep sockets and proper 6-point sockets (metric)
- How to use: fit fully over nut; avoid 12-point on rounded nuts.
- Why: access deep studs and reduce rounding.
- Stud extractor or stud removal tool (internal/external)
- How to use: grips the broken stud or nut to turn it out; follow tool manufacturer instructions.
- Why: many manifold fasteners fail as studs; extractor avoids pulling threads and helps remove broken studs.
- Thread chaser or tap and die set (metric)
- How to use: clean and chase threads by hand with cutting oil; ensure correct size and direction.
- Why: restores bolt hole threads in cylinder head or cleans stud threads for new studs.
- Gasket scraper and razor blades (careful)
- How to use: hold flat, scrape at low angle to avoid cutting metal.
- Why: removes old gasket without damaging mating surfaces.
- Straight edge and feeler gauges
- How to use: lay straight edge across manifold mating surface and slide feeler gauges to measure gaps/warp.
- Why: checks flatness; warp beyond spec often means replacement.
- Dial indicator or simple visual crack detection aids (optional)
- How to use: visual inspection under light, use dye-penetrant kit for microscopic cracks.
- Why: detect fine cracks that thermal cycling creates.
- Heat source: propane or oxy-acetylene torch (optional, for stuck studs)
- How to use: heat the stud/nut area evenly for short bursts; use with extreme caution and fire watch.
- Why: thermal expansion can free seized nuts; do not overheat or damage nearby components.
- Welder (MIG/TIG or stick) and grinder (only if welding repair intended)
- How to use: welding cast iron requires special rods and preheat; requires experienced operator. Grind and finish welds smooth afterwards.
- Why: used to repair certain cast-iron cracks; however, welding is specialized and often not durable if done poorly.
- Engine support bar or jack and wood block (if manifold removal shifts engine mounts)
- How to use: support engine to prevent droop when components are unbolted.
- Why: some manifolds/turbo assemblies support components; relieve load to avoid misalignment or damage.
- Typical replacement parts you will likely need (why and what to buy)
- Exhaust manifold gasket(s)
- Why: gaskets are single-use, crush and seal; old gaskets leak or are damaged when removing manifold.
- Buy OEM or high-quality multi-layer steel (MLS) gasket specific to Hino E13C or its part number.
- Studs and nuts (exhaust studs / manifold studs)
- Why: studs often seize and break; reuse is risky. Replace with correct grade studs and high-temp nuts.
- Heat shield hardware or shields
- Why: often corroded; replace to protect nearby wiring/hose and reduce radiant heat.
- Manifold assembly (replacement)
- Why: cracks or warpage beyond repair require replacement. Replacement gives correct mating surface and longevity.
- Turbo flange gasket and hardware (if turbo attached)
- Why: any disconnection to turbo requires new gasket and often new nuts/studs.
- EGR components and gaskets (if attached)
- Why: removal may disturb these seals; replace if damaged or leaking.
- Exhaust downpipe or connection gaskets
- Why: ensure seal to rest of exhaust.
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp)
- Why: prevents future seizure of studs; apply sparingly to stud threads (not gasket face).
- Step-by-step repair procedure (actions and how to use tools)
- Prepare workspace and tools: gather sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench, penetrating oil, gaskets, replacement studs, wire brush, scraper, penetrating oil, safety gear.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Remove heat shields and components blocking access
- Use correct screwdriver or socket; label and bag hardware. Use penetrating oil on bolts if rusty.
- If turbo or downpipe attaches to manifold, unbolt and support turbo
- Use a jack or transmission support if turbo weight is carried by manifold.
- Remove turbo-to-manifold nuts carefully; use impact or breaker bar as needed.
- Spray penetrating oil on all manifold studs and nuts and allow soak time.
- Reapply and use a breaker bar to initially break torque slowly. Tap lightly with hammer to help penetration if safe.
- Loosen and remove nuts in a cross/alternating pattern to avoid sudden stress (remove gradually).
- Use deep 6-point sockets. If a nut breaks, stop and use stud extractor or drill if necessary (see broken stud removal below).
- Inspect removed manifold and head mating surfaces
- Clean surfaces with scraper, wire brush; do not gouge head.
- Use straight edge and feeler gauges to check flatness. If warp > manufacturer spec (consult manual), replace manifold.
- Check for visible cracks
- Use good light, magnifier, or dye-penetrant kit. Cracks at runners, flange, or near bolt bosses usually mean replacement recommended.
- Decide repair vs replacement
- If small superficial crack and you have access to an experienced welder who can preheat and weld cast iron, repair might be possible.
- If multiple cracks, large cracks, warped flange, or damage to threaded holes in the head, replace the manifold.
- Broken stud removal (if studs break)
- Use penetrating oil and heat cycles. Use a stud extractor (Vise-Grip type or purpose-made) gripping the stud shank to turn out.
- If the stud head is gone and extractor cannot bite, drill a pilot and use left-hand drill bit to try to back it out; if it turns out, stop drilling.
- If stud breaks below the head, use an internal extractor or drill and tap to rethread; be prepared to install a heli-coil or oversize stud if threads are damaged.
- Use thread chaser on remaining threads.
- Prepare surfaces: clean all carbon and gasket residue; ensure bolt threads in head are clean and undamaged.
- Use a thread chaser to clean each hole; do not use a tap that removes excess material.
- Install new studs/nuts (if replacing)
- Screw studs in by hand, apply anti-seize to threads where recommended (avoid getting compound on gasket surfaces).
- If studs are heated for installation, follow parts instructions.
- Reinstall manifold with new gasket(s)
- Place gasket, set manifold in position. Hand-start nuts on studs to align.
- Tighten in a gradual, alternating sequence to bring manifold down evenly (same pattern used to loosen).
- Use torque wrench to final-torque to factory specification (consult Hino E13C service manual for exact numbers). Tighten in stages (e.g., 30%, 60%, 100% of final torque).
- Reconnect turbo/downpipe/EGR/sensors and heat shields
- Replace any gaskets and hardware removed. Torque to spec.
- Start engine and check for leaks
- With engine warm, check for soot, audible leaks, or exhaust smell near the manifold and flanges. Re-torque if manufacturer recommends after heat cycles.
- Final checks
- After a few heat/cool cycles, re-check bolt torque per manual. Inspect for any loosened hardware or new leaks.
- Welding repair details and caveats
- Cast iron welding requires preheat (typically 250–500°F / 120–260°C depending on thickness), special nickel/iron rods, controlled interpass temperatures, and slow cooling (insulate afterward).
- If you are a complete beginner, do not attempt cast-iron welding yourself — hire a shop experienced with diesel engine cast-iron welding.
- Welding may distort the flange or change fit; post-weld milling or grinding of the flange may be necessary.
- Many workshops recommend replacement over welding because of longevity and reliability on heavy-duty diesel engines.
- Torque and specifications
- Always confirm torque sequence and values from the Hino E13C workshop/service manual for the exact model year and configuration.
- Using incorrect torque can cause leaks, broken studs, or warped manifold surfaces.
- Practical tips and warnings for a beginner
- Take many photos during disassembly to help with reassembly and part orientation.
- Label hoses, wires and positions of heat shields and bolts; keep hardware organized by location.
- Replace gaskets and corroded hardware rather than reusing them.
- Work slowly and let penetrating oil do its job; forcing rusted bolts often creates broken studs that are more work to fix.
- If a fastener refuses to move after penetrating oil and heat, stop and assess — drilling or extraction is safer than brute force.
- When to take it to a professional
- If multiple studs are broken, threads in the head are damaged, the manifold is heavily cracked or warped, or if welding is required and you lack experience and proper equipment — a professional shop or dealer should do the repair.
- Professional replacement ensures correct torque, alignment to the turbo/EGR, and a reliable long-term repair.
- Parts checklist to buy before you start
- Correct exhaust manifold gasket(s) for Hino E13C
- Exhaust studs and nuts (set if possible)
- Turbo/manifold gaskets if applicable
- Heat shield hardware
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp)
- Penetrating oil
- Replacement manifold (if determined necessary)
- Any sensors or EGR gaskets disturbed during disassembly
- Final note (no extra chatter)
- Get the Hino E13C service manual or OEM torque and sequence sheet before beginning. Follow safety rules. If unsure about stud extraction or welding, hire a shop.
rteeqp73
A wheel alignment check on a Hino E13C involves assessing and adjusting the angles of the wheels to ensure they are set to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. Proper alignment is crucial for tire wear, handling, and overall vehicle safety. Here’s a breakdown of the theory and process:
### Key Concepts
1. **Wheel Alignment Angles**:
- **Camber**: The angle of the wheel in relation to the vertical axis. Positive camber means the top of the wheel is tilted outward, while negative camber means it's tilted inward. Incorrect camber can lead to uneven tire wear.
- **Caster**: The angle of the steering pivot, which affects stability and steering. Positive caster contributes to straight-line stability.
- **Toe**: The angle of the wheels in relation to the centerline of the vehicle when viewed from above. Toe-in means the front of the wheels is closer together than the rear; toe-out is the opposite. Incorrect toe can cause tires to scrub and wear unevenly.
2. **Impact of Misalignment**:
- Misalignment can cause tires to wear prematurely, affect handling, increase fuel consumption, and lead to steering issues.
### Wheel Alignment Check Process
1. **Initial Inspection**:
- Examine tires for uneven wear patterns, which can indicate misalignment. Check suspension components for damage or wear, as these can affect alignment.
2. **Set Up Alignment Equipment**:
- Use a wheel alignment machine equipped with sensors to measure the angles of each wheel. Ensure the vehicle is on a level surface and the alignment machine is calibrated.
3. **Measure Angles**:
- Attach sensors to the wheels and take measurements for camber, caster, and toe. Compare the readings to the manufacturer's specifications for the Hino E13C.
4. **Analyze Results**:
- Identify any deviations from the specifications. Understand how each angle affects vehicle handling and tire wear.
5. **Adjust Angles**:
- **Camber Adjustment**: Adjust the upper control arms or strut mounts to achieve the correct camber angle.
- **Caster Adjustment**: Adjust the control arms or strut mounts to achieve the desired caster angle.
- **Toe Adjustment**: Adjust the tie rods to set the correct toe angle.
6. **Recheck Measurements**:
- After adjustments, re-measure the angles to ensure they are within specifications. This step is crucial to confirm that the adjustments have corrected the misalignment.
7. **Test Drive**:
- Conduct a test drive to check for handling issues and to ensure that the vehicle drives straight without pulling to one side.
### Theory Behind Repairs
- **Adjusting Camber**: Correcting camber ensures the tire’s contact patch with the road is optimal, leading to even tire wear and improved handling.
- **Adjusting Caster**: Proper caster angle enhances straight-line stability and steering responsiveness, improving the overall driving experience.
- **Adjusting Toe**: Correct toe settings reduce tire scrubbing during turns, leading to even wear across the tire tread and enhancing fuel efficiency.
By understanding these principles, you can appreciate how each adjustment not only fixes the immediate misalignment but also contributes to the overall performance and safety of the vehicle.
rteeqp73
### Camshaft Replacement on Hino E13C
#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set (metric)**
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Pliers**
4. **Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)**
5. **Timing Tool Kit (if available)**
6. **Camshaft Bearing Installation Tool**
7. **Oil Filter Wrench**
8. **Gasket Scraper**
9. **Clean Rags**
10. **Engine Oil (for lubrication)**
11. **Sealant (if required)**
#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Disconnect the Battery:** Always disconnect the negative terminal to prevent electrical shorts.
2. **Wear Safety Gear:** Use gloves and safety glasses.
3. **Work in a Well-Ventilated Area:** Ensure proper ventilation to avoid inhaling harmful fumes.
4. **Secure the Vehicle:** If working under the vehicle, use jack stands and chock wheels.
5. **Follow Manufacturer Guidelines:** Refer to the workshop manual for torque specifications and procedures.
#### Step-by-Step Procedure:
1. **Preparation:**
- Park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. **Drain Engine Oil:**
- Remove the oil drain plug and drain the engine oil into a suitable container. Replace the drain plug when done.
3. **Remove Timing Cover:**
- Remove any components obstructing access to the timing cover (e.g., belts, accessories).
- Unbolt and carefully remove the timing cover. Keep track of any seals or gaskets.
4. **Remove Timing Belt/Chain:**
- If applicable, align timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft.
- Loosen the tensioner and remove the timing belt/chain. Note the routing for reinstallation.
5. **Remove Rocker Arm Assembly:**
- Unbolt and remove the rocker arm assembly to gain access to the camshaft.
6. **Remove Camshaft:**
- Remove any retaining bolts securing the camshaft.
- Carefully lift the camshaft out of the engine. Ensure to avoid damaging the camshaft bearings.
7. **Inspect Components:**
- Check the camshaft for wear or damage. Inspect camshaft bearings and replace if necessary.
8. **Install New Camshaft:**
- Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the new camshaft and bearings.
- Carefully place the new camshaft into the engine, aligning it with the timing marks.
9. **Reinstall Rocker Arm Assembly:**
- Reinstall the rocker arm assembly and torque to specifications.
10. **Reinstall Timing Belt/Chain:**
- Route the timing belt/chain according to the markings. Adjust the tensioner and ensure proper tension.
11. **Reinstall Timing Cover:**
- Clean the mating surfaces and install a new gasket if required. Bolt the timing cover back in place.
12. **Refill Engine Oil:**
- Replace the oil drain plug and refill the engine with the appropriate oil.
13. **Reconnect Battery:**
- Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
14. **Start Engine:**
- Start the engine and check for any leaks or abnormal noises. Monitor oil pressure.
#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Misalignment of Timing Marks:** Always double-check that timing marks are correctly aligned before and after the installation of the timing belt/chain.
- **Skipping Torque Specifications:** Ensure all bolts are torqued to the manufacturer’s specifications to avoid future failures.
- **Neglecting to Replace Gaskets:** Always replace gaskets and seals to prevent oil leaks.
- **Failing to Lubricate the Camshaft:** Proper lubrication is crucial for the camshaft and bearings to avoid premature wear.
#### Replacement Parts:
- **New Camshaft:** Ensure it matches the OEM specifications.
- **Camshaft Bearings:** Replace if worn or damaged.
- **Gaskets and Seals:** Always replace timing cover and any other gaskets removed during the process.
- **Timing Belt/Chain:** If worn, consider replacement during this service.
By following these steps and precautions, you can successfully replace the camshaft on a Hino E13C engine with minimal risk of issues.
rteeqp73