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Ford Trader T3000 T3500 T4000 factory workshop and repair manual download
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Ford Trader T TRUCK 1989-2000 Factory Workshop repair service manualon PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . File size 30 Mb Searchable PDF document with bookmarks. ENGINE COVERED:
Contents
About the Ford Trader T3000 T3500 T4000 TruckThe third generation Mazda Titan was announced in 1989. The car received all-new bodywork, albeit still rather similar looking. The biggest difference is that the side windows received a pronounced dip at the leading edge, to allow the driver better visibility. The "Titan" logos were changed to all-caps. The new Titan also received mudguards, with prominent "Titan" script. In 1992 the Titan underwent a minor facelift, softening the design somewhat.In 1995 there was another facelift, although there were also some mechanical changes this time: To be compliant with the stricter 1994 emissions standards, Mazda had to replace the higher output engines with Isuzu 4HG1 engines. The Mazda logo was made considerably larger. In October 1997 there was another modernization. The front was rounded off, with the windscreen made to look larger by placing a piece of black plastic beneath it. The four square lamps were replaced by more irregularly shaped single units which wrap around the corners. The Titan logo was changed from red to white characters. In May 1999, the 1998 emissions standards were met - except for the four-litre version, which did not become compliant until November.In export markets, the Titan was sold as the "Mazda T Series" and Ford Trader. Buyers had a choice of rear ends that included ute bed, tray top, and a box which included a hydraulic lifting tray. The choice of motor was either a four or six-cylinder diesel (some of which are of Perkins origins) or a petrol engine with either four or six cylinders. Ford Trader T truck factory workshop and repair manual 1989-2000 Download |
Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Heavy-duty vehicle lift or 4 axle stands + quality jacks; wheel chocks.
- Wheel alignment machine for heavy vehicles (preferred) OR manual setup: toe plates or straight-edge/string, two tape measures, carpenter’s level.
- Digital inclinometer/caster gauge, camber gauge (or combined wheel alignment gauge).
- Long breaker bar and calibrated torque wrench (suitable for U‑bolts/axle nuts).
- Spanners/sockets for steering and suspension fasteners, crowfoot wrenches.
- Tie‑rod end puller / pickle fork or ball‑joint separator.
- Hammer, punch, drift, scribe/marker.
- Spring compressor / hydraulic jack for spring packing work.
- Kingpin reamer/liner tool or kingpin service kit (if applicable).
- Replacement parts (see list below) and anti‑seize, thread locker, greases.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots.
Safety first
- Work on level ground. Chock rear wheels. Never rely on jacks alone — use stands/lift.
- Lift points per vehicle manual. Support frame, not axle, when removing springs or components.
- Decompress springs carefully; leaf springs store energy.
- Use proper PPE and rated tools. If any part requires press/reaming, use proper fixtures and experienced personnel.
Pre‑checks (do these before any geometry work)
1. Tires: correct inflation, even tread, same size. Replace badly worn tires first.
2. Ride height: measure axle-to-frame heights left/right and fore/aft. Adjust load or air suspension to normal operating height. Geometry is set at operating ride height.
3. Steering freeplay: check steering gearbox, drag link, idler arm. Correct gearbox backlash before alignment.
4. Wheel bearings, hub runout: correct or replace if excess play or runout.
5. Suspension condition: check spring packs, shackles, U‑bolts, center pins, bushings, kingpins, tie rods, track rods for wear/corrosion. Replace worn parts first.
6. Brake drag or parking brake: ensure not binding.
What you are adjusting on Ford Trader T3000/T3500/T4000
- Toe (primary on solid axle trucks): steering tie rod length or track rod.
- Caster & camber (if adjustable): often set with shims at spring eyes, eccentric bushes, or adjustable shackles; some models have limited adjustment range.
- Axle centring / thrust angle: set by leaf spring pack alignment, spring center bolt position, or adjustable track rods.
- Kingpin/steering knuckle play: serviced with kingpin bushings or replacement kingpin kits.
Step‑by‑step procedure
A. Setup for measurement (alignment machine method preferred)
1. Put vehicle on alignment rack or lift with wheel alignment turntables or blocks under front wheels; free-rolling or known spec as machine requires.
2. Clamp sensors to wheels per alignment machine instructions. Enter vehicle data (wheel size, axle width, wheelbase).
3. Zero machine per instructions and read initial alignment values.
B. Manual measuring (if no alignment machine)
1. Straight‑edge/string method for toe and thrust:
- Park vehicle with wheels straight. Mark wheel centerlines on rims or flange.
- Place toe plates against wheel faces or run string around both front and rear wheels, parallel to vehicle centerline. Measure distance between plates or string to centerline of front and rear edges at hub height.
- Toe = (front measurement - rear measurement) / wheelbase method or read toe difference between front & rear of wheels. Convert to mm per axle or degrees as required.
2. Caster with inclinometer:
- Attach inclinometer to wheel hub or spindle adapter. Turn wheel 20° in and 20° out. Use the readings per gauge instructions to calculate caster.
3. Camber with camber gauge against wheel face or hub adapter. Record.
C. Adjust Toe (most common adjustment)
1. Identify tie rod / track rod assemblies. Loosen jam nut on adjustable tie rod.
2. Rotate inner or outer tie rod to change length. Shorten to increase toe‑in, lengthen to add toe‑out (verify on your measurement device).
3. Adjust both sides equally to preserve thrust angle unless correcting steering off‑center.
4. Tighten jam nuts to spec (manufacturer torque or firm locking; do not under-torque).
5. Re‑measure toe. Target the factory toe spec; if unknown, aim for slight toe‑in per axle (commercial trucks commonly have small toe‑in per wheel; use alignment machine if possible).
How to use toe plates/tape:
- Place toe plates flush to rim faces (or use string parallel to centerline). Measure distance between front edges and rear edges at hub height using tape measure. Calculate difference (front minus rear equals toe). Keep measurements accurate to ±1 mm.
D. Adjust Caster & Camber (if adjustable)
1. Determine method on your truck:
- Shim adjustment: add/remove shims between axle pedestal and spring seat or between spring pack and axle seat. Shims change pin position slightly — small changes.
- Eccentric bushes: rotate eccentric to alter angle.
- Adjustable shackles: reposition shackle to change pin offset.
2. To increase caster (more positive):
- Move spring front eye lower or rear eye higher relative to chassis. Specific action depends on design — usually achieved with shims under spring eyes or swapping shackle positions.
3. To change camber:
- Use eccentric bolts if fitted or shims under spring seat.
4. Procedure:
- Loosen U‑bolts and clamp that hold spring to axle enough to relieve clamping, but keep vehicle supported.
- Fit/remove shims in small increments (1–3 mm). Re‑torque U‑bolts to spec, load vehicle to ride height, measure camber/caster again.
- Repeat until within spec.
Note: Small shim changes produce small angle changes. Work incrementally.
E. Axle centering / thrust angle
1. Set toe symmetrically (both wheels same toe). If vehicle tracks off center, adjust track rod or spring center bolt position.
2. If the axle is shifted left/right on the spring perch, remove U‑bolts, shift axle so spring center bolt lines up with spring center plate on axle, secure and torque U‑bolts evenly.
3. Use measurements from alignment machine or string method to confirm thrust angle (aim for zero relative to vehicle centerline).
F. Kingpin / steering knuckle service (if required)
1. If there is excessive kingpin play, remove knuckle and replace kingpin bushings or kingpin kit. Use kingpin reamer and liners per kit instructions.
2. After replacement, set endfloat per service manual. Ensure lubrication.
G. Final torqueing & checks
1. Torque all U‑bolts, axle nuts, tie rod jam nuts, spring eye bolts to manufacturer specs. If you do not have specs, consult Ford Trader workshop manual — do not guess.
2. Grease all grease points (tie rods, kingpins, steering box).
3. Re‑check alignment values after torquing. Tightening can shift values.
4. Road test at safe speeds with caution. Check steering wheel center, tracking, pull under braking. Re‑inspect and re‑measure after 50–100 km.
Replacement parts commonly required
- Tie rod / track rod ends and sleeves
- Ball joints / kingpin kits and bushings / liners
- Wheel bearings and seals
- Spring center bolts, U‑bolts and plates (replace U‑bolts if stretched/corroded)
- Spring pack or individual leaf(s) if sagged or cracked
- Eccentric bushes or shackle kits
- Shims for pedestal or spring seat
- Nuts, bolts and locking devices (replace heavily corroded fasteners)
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Trying to align with worn parts: replace tie rod ends, bushings, bearings BEFORE alignment.
- Ignoring ride height: measure and set at normal load; alignment at sagged or jacked height is wrong.
- Not re‑checking after torquing U‑bolts: tightening can shift castor/toe; always re‑measure.
- Over‑shimming: adding too many shims can overload components and change geometry unexpectedly. Work in small increments.
- Using wrong specs: don’t guess torque or angles; consult Ford Trader service manual or a heavy vehicle alignment chart.
- Measuring on an uneven floor or with mis-inflated/worn tires — creates false readings.
- Not compensating steering gearbox backlash before measuring toe/caster — freeplay will spoil results.
- Unsafe spring work: never remove springs without supporting axle and relieving spring preload.
Notes on tools & usage
- Alignment machine: follow machine prompts. It reads toe/camber/caster and calculates steering axis. Adjust tie rods to change toe; use shim/eccentric/shackle adjustments for caster/camber.
- Digital inclinometer/caster gauge: mount solidly to hub or adapter; calibrate with wheel straight. Use consistent wheel turn angles (commonly ±20°) and apply gauge formula per manufacturer.
- String method: set string parallel to vehicle centerline using rear wheels as reference; ensure string is at exactly hub height and tight.
- Kingpin reamer/liner: follow kit instructions exactly. Proper reaming and line‑boring requires correct fixtures; if unsure, use a shop with the tooling.
Finish
- After adjustments and road test, re‑check torque on U‑bolts and steering fasteners within first 100–200 km.
- Record settings and any replaced parts for future reference.
If you need actual factory specs (torque values, toe/caster/camber targets, shim thickness charts), refer to the Ford Trader T3000/T3500/T4000 service manual or a professional heavy‑vehicle alignment shop — exact numbers vary by axle/steering configuration.
rteeqp73
- Heavy-duty vehicle lift or 4 axle stands + quality jacks; wheel chocks.
- Wheel alignment machine for heavy vehicles (preferred) OR manual setup: toe plates or straight-edge/string, two tape measures, carpenter’s level.
- Digital inclinometer/caster gauge, camber gauge (or combined wheel alignment gauge).
- Long breaker bar and calibrated torque wrench (suitable for U‑bolts/axle nuts).
- Spanners/sockets for steering and suspension fasteners, crowfoot wrenches.
- Tie‑rod end puller / pickle fork or ball‑joint separator.
- Hammer, punch, drift, scribe/marker.
- Spring compressor / hydraulic jack for spring packing work.
- Kingpin reamer/liner tool or kingpin service kit (if applicable).
- Replacement parts (see list below) and anti‑seize, thread locker, greases.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots.
Safety first
- Work on level ground. Chock rear wheels. Never rely on jacks alone — use stands/lift.
- Lift points per vehicle manual. Support frame, not axle, when removing springs or components.
- Decompress springs carefully; leaf springs store energy.
- Use proper PPE and rated tools. If any part requires press/reaming, use proper fixtures and experienced personnel.
Pre‑checks (do these before any geometry work)
1. Tires: correct inflation, even tread, same size. Replace badly worn tires first.
2. Ride height: measure axle-to-frame heights left/right and fore/aft. Adjust load or air suspension to normal operating height. Geometry is set at operating ride height.
3. Steering freeplay: check steering gearbox, drag link, idler arm. Correct gearbox backlash before alignment.
4. Wheel bearings, hub runout: correct or replace if excess play or runout.
5. Suspension condition: check spring packs, shackles, U‑bolts, center pins, bushings, kingpins, tie rods, track rods for wear/corrosion. Replace worn parts first.
6. Brake drag or parking brake: ensure not binding.
What you are adjusting on Ford Trader T3000/T3500/T4000
- Toe (primary on solid axle trucks): steering tie rod length or track rod.
- Caster & camber (if adjustable): often set with shims at spring eyes, eccentric bushes, or adjustable shackles; some models have limited adjustment range.
- Axle centring / thrust angle: set by leaf spring pack alignment, spring center bolt position, or adjustable track rods.
- Kingpin/steering knuckle play: serviced with kingpin bushings or replacement kingpin kits.
Step‑by‑step procedure
A. Setup for measurement (alignment machine method preferred)
1. Put vehicle on alignment rack or lift with wheel alignment turntables or blocks under front wheels; free-rolling or known spec as machine requires.
2. Clamp sensors to wheels per alignment machine instructions. Enter vehicle data (wheel size, axle width, wheelbase).
3. Zero machine per instructions and read initial alignment values.
B. Manual measuring (if no alignment machine)
1. Straight‑edge/string method for toe and thrust:
- Park vehicle with wheels straight. Mark wheel centerlines on rims or flange.
- Place toe plates against wheel faces or run string around both front and rear wheels, parallel to vehicle centerline. Measure distance between plates or string to centerline of front and rear edges at hub height.
- Toe = (front measurement - rear measurement) / wheelbase method or read toe difference between front & rear of wheels. Convert to mm per axle or degrees as required.
2. Caster with inclinometer:
- Attach inclinometer to wheel hub or spindle adapter. Turn wheel 20° in and 20° out. Use the readings per gauge instructions to calculate caster.
3. Camber with camber gauge against wheel face or hub adapter. Record.
C. Adjust Toe (most common adjustment)
1. Identify tie rod / track rod assemblies. Loosen jam nut on adjustable tie rod.
2. Rotate inner or outer tie rod to change length. Shorten to increase toe‑in, lengthen to add toe‑out (verify on your measurement device).
3. Adjust both sides equally to preserve thrust angle unless correcting steering off‑center.
4. Tighten jam nuts to spec (manufacturer torque or firm locking; do not under-torque).
5. Re‑measure toe. Target the factory toe spec; if unknown, aim for slight toe‑in per axle (commercial trucks commonly have small toe‑in per wheel; use alignment machine if possible).
How to use toe plates/tape:
- Place toe plates flush to rim faces (or use string parallel to centerline). Measure distance between front edges and rear edges at hub height using tape measure. Calculate difference (front minus rear equals toe). Keep measurements accurate to ±1 mm.
D. Adjust Caster & Camber (if adjustable)
1. Determine method on your truck:
- Shim adjustment: add/remove shims between axle pedestal and spring seat or between spring pack and axle seat. Shims change pin position slightly — small changes.
- Eccentric bushes: rotate eccentric to alter angle.
- Adjustable shackles: reposition shackle to change pin offset.
2. To increase caster (more positive):
- Move spring front eye lower or rear eye higher relative to chassis. Specific action depends on design — usually achieved with shims under spring eyes or swapping shackle positions.
3. To change camber:
- Use eccentric bolts if fitted or shims under spring seat.
4. Procedure:
- Loosen U‑bolts and clamp that hold spring to axle enough to relieve clamping, but keep vehicle supported.
- Fit/remove shims in small increments (1–3 mm). Re‑torque U‑bolts to spec, load vehicle to ride height, measure camber/caster again.
- Repeat until within spec.
Note: Small shim changes produce small angle changes. Work incrementally.
E. Axle centering / thrust angle
1. Set toe symmetrically (both wheels same toe). If vehicle tracks off center, adjust track rod or spring center bolt position.
2. If the axle is shifted left/right on the spring perch, remove U‑bolts, shift axle so spring center bolt lines up with spring center plate on axle, secure and torque U‑bolts evenly.
3. Use measurements from alignment machine or string method to confirm thrust angle (aim for zero relative to vehicle centerline).
F. Kingpin / steering knuckle service (if required)
1. If there is excessive kingpin play, remove knuckle and replace kingpin bushings or kingpin kit. Use kingpin reamer and liners per kit instructions.
2. After replacement, set endfloat per service manual. Ensure lubrication.
G. Final torqueing & checks
1. Torque all U‑bolts, axle nuts, tie rod jam nuts, spring eye bolts to manufacturer specs. If you do not have specs, consult Ford Trader workshop manual — do not guess.
2. Grease all grease points (tie rods, kingpins, steering box).
3. Re‑check alignment values after torquing. Tightening can shift values.
4. Road test at safe speeds with caution. Check steering wheel center, tracking, pull under braking. Re‑inspect and re‑measure after 50–100 km.
Replacement parts commonly required
- Tie rod / track rod ends and sleeves
- Ball joints / kingpin kits and bushings / liners
- Wheel bearings and seals
- Spring center bolts, U‑bolts and plates (replace U‑bolts if stretched/corroded)
- Spring pack or individual leaf(s) if sagged or cracked
- Eccentric bushes or shackle kits
- Shims for pedestal or spring seat
- Nuts, bolts and locking devices (replace heavily corroded fasteners)
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Trying to align with worn parts: replace tie rod ends, bushings, bearings BEFORE alignment.
- Ignoring ride height: measure and set at normal load; alignment at sagged or jacked height is wrong.
- Not re‑checking after torquing U‑bolts: tightening can shift castor/toe; always re‑measure.
- Over‑shimming: adding too many shims can overload components and change geometry unexpectedly. Work in small increments.
- Using wrong specs: don’t guess torque or angles; consult Ford Trader service manual or a heavy vehicle alignment chart.
- Measuring on an uneven floor or with mis-inflated/worn tires — creates false readings.
- Not compensating steering gearbox backlash before measuring toe/caster — freeplay will spoil results.
- Unsafe spring work: never remove springs without supporting axle and relieving spring preload.
Notes on tools & usage
- Alignment machine: follow machine prompts. It reads toe/camber/caster and calculates steering axis. Adjust tie rods to change toe; use shim/eccentric/shackle adjustments for caster/camber.
- Digital inclinometer/caster gauge: mount solidly to hub or adapter; calibrate with wheel straight. Use consistent wheel turn angles (commonly ±20°) and apply gauge formula per manufacturer.
- String method: set string parallel to vehicle centerline using rear wheels as reference; ensure string is at exactly hub height and tight.
- Kingpin reamer/liner: follow kit instructions exactly. Proper reaming and line‑boring requires correct fixtures; if unsure, use a shop with the tooling.
Finish
- After adjustments and road test, re‑check torque on U‑bolts and steering fasteners within first 100–200 km.
- Record settings and any replaced parts for future reference.
If you need actual factory specs (torque values, toe/caster/camber targets, shim thickness charts), refer to the Ford Trader T3000/T3500/T4000 service manual or a professional heavy‑vehicle alignment shop — exact numbers vary by axle/steering configuration.
rteeqp73
