The Chevrolet Aveo (T200) is the very first generation of the Chevrolet Aveo, a subcompact automobile manufactured since 2002 by GM Daewoo, the South Korean subsidiary of General Motors originally marketed as the Daewoo Kalos and prominently marketed as the Aveo. The model received the T200 internal codes, used first by Daewoo, and then, by GM Daewoo during the car's development. The T250 code was designated for the model's facelift. Designed, engineered and originally marketed by GM Daewoo, the Aveo superseded the Daewoo Lanos and was marketed worldwide in 120 countries under five brands (Chevrolet, Daewoo, Holden, Pontiac, and Suzuki). In its home market of South Korea, the T200 was known as Daewoo Kalos, before being rebranded Daewoo Gentra. In several Asian, Australasian, and European export markets, the "Daewoo Kalos" name was also used, only to be afterwards renamed "Chevrolet Aveo" or Holden Barina in the case of Australasia. Other names used consist of Chevrolet Lova in Asia and Pontiac G3 in the United States, selling alongside the "Chevrolet Aveo" version. In Canada, the name Pontiac Wave was initially followed, used by Pontiac G3 Wave, before adopting the "Pontiac G3" name used in the United States. Since 2003, Suzuki has also available a adaptation in Canada as the Suzuki Swift+ alongside the Chevrolet and Pontiac badged versions. T200's successor, the T300 was released in 2011. The Swift+ was dropped after the 2011 model year due to poor earnings along with the whole Suzuki brand, although Suzuki Canada lists 2010 as the final model year Swift+.
The Daewoo Kalos was introduced in 2002, based on a then-new Daewoo platform named T200, replacing the Daewoo Lanos (T100). Under development before Daewoo's bankruptcy, the Kalos was the company's first new model introduction following its subsequent takeover by General Motors. Manufacture of the Kalos began in early March, 2002, with pre-production prototypes shown at the Geneva Auto Show in April 2002. The nameplate Kalos derives from the Greek word for "beautiful" and "good".Designed by Italdesign, the Kalos derives directly from the Kalos fancy concept vehicle first presented at the 2000 Paris Motor Show and subsequent developmental concepts at the 2001 Frankfurt Motor Show, 2002 Geneva Auto Show, and 2003 at the Geneva Show. During this three-year programming period Daewoo had been struggling financially, with the ultimate fate of the company and the concept vehicle remaining uncertain.
Two different T200 front-end styling designs were available. Whenever released in 2002, the T200 headlamps were detached from the horizontal amber turn alert strip, located directly below. This detached style, utilized mainly in South Korea and North America, was used in conjunction with a semi-elliptical grille. When sales in Europe began in 2003, the headlights were an integrated unit that slanted upwards from the "V-shaped" grille towards the front fenders. In Australia, whenever the Daewoo Kalos was introduced in 2003, the hatchback featured the integrated lighting arrangement, with the detached style used to differentiate the sedans. In South Korea, in which the detached lights were used at first, the integrated design was later utilized as a facelift. The T200 sedan and five-door hatchback featured a swage line working along the lower body to the rear door, which kinks down prominently on the five-door. Five-doors additionally feature a side window in the C/D pillar with a distinctively angled lower edge. Interiors feature a circular motif throughout. Upon introduction the initial European models carried an emblem reading "Design Giugiaro." Referring to his firm's design of the Kalos, Giorgetto Giugiaro replied: "When we designed it, you set out to produce an alternative to conventional lines and tread new ways in terms of design."
The Kalos was sold in three available body styles: a 4-door sedan and 5-door hatchback from the beginning of production in 2002, and a 3-door hatchback available in some European markets beginning in 2005. All body styles meet North American subcompact and European B-segment or supermini size classifications. The interior amount was 102.7 cu ft (2,910 L) (5-door) and 107.4 cu ft (3,040 L) (sedan) according to the EPA, meeting the minimum criterion for a compact vehicle despite being advertised as a sub-compact. Headroom was unmatched in their class at the time of its introduction. Per the German Verband der Automobilindustrie (VDA) standard, 5-door hatchbacks featured 175 litres (6.2 cu ft) of cargo area with the rear seats in their upright positions and 735 litres (26.0 cu ft) with the rear seats folded down, with a maximum payload rating of 495 kg (1,091 lb). Per U.S. Ecological Protection Agency (EPA) ratings, the 5-door hatchbacks featured cargo volume of 11.7 cubic feet (330 L) (rear seats up) to 42 cu ft (1,200 L) (back seats down), with 7.1 cu ft (200 L) available in the sedan.
Chevrolet Aveo Factory workshop and repair manual 2002 - 2011 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Chevrolet is a brand of automobile produced by General Motors (GM). It was founded in 1911 by Louis Chevrolet and William C. Durant. Durant had been a founder of GM, but was forced out of the company in 1910. He then teamed up with Chevrolet to start the new company, using Chevrolet's engineering expertise and Durant's business acumen.
The first Chevrolet was the Classic Six, a luxury car priced at ,500. It was introduced in 1912 and was in production until 1915. In 1914, Chevrolet introduced the Series H, a more affordable car that sold for 0. This was the first car to bear the Chevrolet name and it was a success, helping to establish the brand.
During World War I, Chevrolet stopped production of civilian cars to focus on building vehicles for the war effort. After the war, the company resumed production of civilian cars and introduced new models, such as the Series 490 and the Series D.
In 1918, Durant regained control of GM and merged Chevrolet with the company. Chevrolet became a division of GM and continued to produce a wide range of vehicles, from luxury cars to affordable automobiles for the masses.
In the 1920s, Chevrolet introduced the Series M Copper-Cooled, a car with an air-cooled engine, and the Series AB National, which was the first Chevrolet with an all-steel body. In the 1930s, Chevrolet introduced the Stovebolt, a six-cylinder engine, and the Master Deluxe, a more luxurious car.
During World War II, Chevrolet again stopped production of civilian cars to focus on building vehicles for the war effort. After the war, Chevrolet resumed production of civilian cars and introduced new models, such as the Fleetline and the Styleline.
In the 1950s, Chevrolet introduced the Bel Air, a full-size car that was a hit with consumers. The car was available in several different styles, including a convertible and a hardtop. Chevrolet also introduced the Corvette, a sports car that has become a classic.
In the 1960s, Chevrolet introduced the Camaro, a muscle car that competed with the Ford Mustang. The car was available in several different styles, including a coupe and a convertible. Chevrolet also introduced the Impala, a full-size car that was a hit with consumers.
In the 1970s, Chevrolet introduced the Monte Carlo, a luxury car, and the Vega, a compact car. The Vega was not a success and was discontinued in 1977. Chevrolet also introduced the Chevette, a subcompact car.
In the 1980s, Chevrolet introduced the Camaro and the Corvette, which have been popular sports cars. Chevrolet also introduced the Celebrity, a midsize car, and the S-10, a compact pickup truck.
In the 1990s, Chevrolet introduced the Cavalier, a compact car, and the Lumina, a midsize car. Chevrolet also introduced the Blazer, a midsize SUV, and the Suburban, a full-size SUV.
In the 2000s, Chevrolet introduced the Malibu, a midsize car, and the Silverado, a full-size pickup truck. Chevrolet also introduced the Equinox, a compact SUV, and the Tahoe, a full-size SUV.
In the 2010s, Chevrolet introduced the Camaro, the Corvette, the Spark, a subcompact car, the Sonic, a compact car, the Impala, a full-size car, and the Bolt, an electric car. Chevrolet also introduced the Trax, a compact SUV, and the Traverse, a midsize SUV.
Chevrolet continues to be a popular brand around the world
Short summary first: replacing brake lines is a safety‑critical hydraulic repair. If done wrong you can lose brakes. Read this fully, work slowly, use proper tools, follow torque specs in the factory repair manual, and test carefully before normal driving.
What the braking system is and why brake lines sometimes must be replaced
- Theory (simple): when you press the brake pedal you push a piston in the master cylinder which pressurizes brake fluid. That pressure travels through metal and rubber lines to the wheel calipers or wheel cylinders, forcing pistons to push pads/shoes against rotors/drums to slow the car. Think of it as a plumbing system where your foot is a pump, brake fluid is water, and calipers are squeezers that convert pressure into mechanical force.
- Why replace lines:
- Corrosion or rust eats through steel hard lines and fittings → leaks.
- Flexible rubber hoses age, swell or collapse internally → slow/soft response or restricted flow.
- Physical damage from road debris, kinking, or poor routing → leaks or rubbing through.
- Previous improper repairs (wrong flares, poor fittings).
- Any leak or internal hose failure can allow air into the system, making the pedal spongy or causing partial/complete brake failure.
- What can go wrong (overview):
- Stripped flare‑nut threads or rounded fittings.
- Kinked hard line that must be replaced or reformed.
- Air trapped after reassembly → soft pedal until properly bled.
- Contaminated brake fluid (water) accelerates corrosion and damages ABS components.
- Incorrect flares or fittings causing leakage.
- Incorrect routing causing rubbing or heat damage.
Components — what each part is and what it does
- Brake master cylinder & reservoir: pedal-actuated pump that pressurizes fluid. Reservoir stores fluid and feeds master cylinder. Must be kept full and clean.
- Brake fluid: hydraulic medium (DOT 3/4/5.1 — Aveo uses DOT 3 or DOT 4; do not mix silicone DOT 5). It transmits pressure and resists boiling to a degree.
- Hard brake lines (steel/tubing): rigid metal plumbing that runs along the chassis; generally double‑flared at ends and held by clips.
- Flexible brake hoses: rubber or braided hose that connect the hard lines to the wheel caliper/wheel cylinder; they flex with suspension movement.
- Fittings: flare nuts, union fittings, banjo bolt (on some calipers), crush washers (copper/aluminum for banjo bolts).
- Tee/Distribution block / proportioning valve: divides fluid to front/rear circuits and balances pressure between axles.
- ABS modulator (if present): valves and pump that modulate pressure during ABS events; plumbing often runs through it.
- Calipers (front) / wheel cylinders (rear drums): the actuators that push pads or shoes onto rotors/drums.
- Clips/retainers and grommets: hold and route lines, preventing chafing.
- Bleeder screws: small screws on calipers/wheel cylinders used to expel air.
Tools and supplies you’ll need (minimum)
- Jack and jack stands (never rely on the jack alone) + wheel chocks.
- Wheel wrench / impact for lug nuts.
- Flare‑nut (line) wrenches, metric set (10/11/12/13/14 mm common).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, etc.).
- Tubing cutter (for steel lines) or a 3/16–1/4" tubing cutter depending on line OD.
- Tube bender (for making replacement hard lines), tube flaring tool if you need to make flares.
- Replacement hard line (pre‑bent OE style if available) or soft hoses; correct OE‑type fittings.
- New crush washers (if banjo bolt used) and any new rubber hose retaining clips.
- Brake fluid (fresh, correct DOT spec).
- Catch container, rags, gloves, eye protection.
- Vacuum/pressure bleeder or a helper with a clear hose and jar.
- Torque wrench (for fittings/banjo bolts).
- Brake line repair kit (if using a sleeve/repair), but permanent repair is new line or new hose.
- Safety: brake fluid safe disposal container, drip pan.
High‑level procedure (full replacement of a corroded hard line or a flexible hose) — steps a beginner can follow
Safety first: park on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake (if you’re lifting rear, leave front brakes engaged), loosen wheel lugs slightly before lifting, lift with jack, support with jack stands. Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep brake fluid off paint.
1) Identify exactly which line is bad
- Visual inspection: look for wetness, rust holes, swollen hose, or bulging.
- Press pedal and look for leaks. If you see seepage at a fitting, that’s the leak point.
- Note routing and clips; take photos to remember routing.
2) Remove wheel and access the line
- Remove wheel for access. Place a drip pan under the area.
3) Depressurize system (no special step — just avoid pressing pedal and open reservoir cap to relieve vacuum)
- Do NOT pump the pedal with the line open. Keep master cylinder cap open to avoid vacuum traps when bleeding.
4) Disconnect at the more convenient end first
- For a flexible hose: often unbolted at the caliper with two bolts (not the banjo bolt), or it may attach to a hard line via a flare nut.
- For a hard line: use a flare‑nut wrench on the fitting. Apply penetrating oil and let soak. Use correct sized wrench; secure opposing fitting with a second wrench to prevent twisting other lines or fittings.
- Catch all fluid in a pan; cap the open line at the master side with clean plug or use a vacuum to prevent much fluid loss.
5) Remove the old line
- For flexible hose: remove retaining clips, slide hose out; remove banjo bolt and replace crush washers if applicable.
- For hard line: if twisted or corroded, you may cut the line at a straight section and replace with a pre‑bent OE line, or make a new line with tube bender. If reusing fittings, be sure threads and flare shape are perfect; most pros replace the entire line assembly.
6) Install the replacement line
- If using a pre‑formed OE hard line, install in same routing and clips. For new custom‑bent line, ensure double flares match original type (usually double flange for automotive). Kinks cannot be repaired — replace line if kinked.
- Tighten fittings snugly, then torque to OEM spec. Use correct crush washers for banjo bolts—replace washers every time.
- Replace any old clips or grommets.
7) Reconnect and secure everything
- Ensure hoses aren’t rubbing on anything and have slack for suspension travel.
- Replace any corroded clips or fasteners.
8) Bleed the brakes thoroughly
- The goal is to remove all air. Two safe methods:
- Two‑person bleed: Person A pumps pedal 3–4 times and holds, Person B opens bleeder until fluid runs clear without air then closes; repeat until clean and firm.
- Vacuum or pressure bleeder: faster and more reliable. Follow tool instructions.
- Bleeding order: typically start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work to the closest (often passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front), but consult the Aveo manual—ABS may require specific procedures. If ABS module is present and suspected to have air trapped, some ABS units require cycling by a scan tool or an ABS bleed cycle — consult manual.
- Keep reservoir topped up during bleeding to prevent introducing more air.
9) Check for leaks and pedal firmness
- With car still on stands, apply firm pedal pressure and hold; inspect every fitting for leaks.
- If pedal goes to the floor or is spongy, rebled until solid.
- Lower car, torque wheels to spec, test drive at very low speed in a safe area, do several stops to confirm normal braking.
Important tips, troubleshooting, and common pitfalls
- Use the right wrench: line nuts round off easily. Use flare‑nut wrenches and a backup wrench on the union.
- Rusted fittings: heat can help but be cautious near rubber and ABS modules; penetrating oil applied for hours helps. If a fitting strips, you may need to cut and replace the section or replace the component (e.g., the caliper or proportioning block).
- Don’t reuse crushed washers or banjo washers — they are single‑use.
- Do not mix DOT 5 (silicone) with DOT 3/4/5.1. Use correct fluid and dispose old fluid responsibly.
- If you fabricate your own line, match the original flare type (double flare or ISO). An incorrect flare leaks.
- Never squeeze a steel line flat to hold it; use proper bender. A kinked line must be replaced.
- ABS complications: if there’s ABS plumbing in the circuit and you suspect it has trapped air, standard bleeding may not purge it. Some ABS systems require a scan tool to run pump/valve cycles or a special bleeding sequence.
- If pedal feels soft after a successful bleed and no leaks exist, master cylinder could be contaminated or failing — consider replacement.
- Test in a safe area before normal use; check for heat soak or binding after initial runs.
When to consider a professional
- You’re unsure of the routing or flare type.
- Lines or fittings are so corroded you must cut into the ABS/controller or distribution block.
- The ABS system won’t purge using normal bleeding and you lack a scan tool.
- You don’t have tools (tube bender, flaring tool, vacuum bleeder) or are not confident.
Disposal and cleanup
- Brake fluid is corrosive and attracts water. Do not dump on ground or down drains. Collect used fluid in a sealed container and take to a hazardous waste facility or auto parts store that accepts it.
- Clean any spilled fluid off painted surfaces immediately with plenty of water; brake fluid can damage paint.
Final quick test checklist before driving
- All fittings torqued to spec.
- Master reservoir full and cap sealed.
- No visible leaks with pedal depressed and released.
- Brake pedal feels firm and does not sink under steady pressure.
- Test stops at low speed in an open area; if anything feels off, stop and re‑inspect.
If you want model‑specific torque specs, exact bleeding order for your Aveo T200 year/configuration, or a factory line diagram, get the official service manual or a Haynes/Chilton manual for the T200 — those give the precise specs and ABS bleeding procedure for your variant.
End — perform this work only if you understand the steps and can verify a fully functional brake system afterward.
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- Required tools (every tool described, how it’s used, why it’s needed)
- 3/8" drive ratchet and socket set (common sizes 10mm, 13mm, 15mm)
- Description: a hand tool with interchangeable sockets that fits the fasteners on the tensioner, accessory brackets and sometimes battery terminals.
- How to use: pick the socket that fits snugly on the nut/bolt, attach to the ratchet, turn clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Use short, controlled strokes in tight spaces.
- Why needed: most bolts on the Aveo’s accessory belt system use these sizes; the ratchet is used to remove/replace bolts and to operate some tensioners.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar (or long 3/8" handle)
- Description: a long-handled, non-ratcheting bar that gives extra leverage.
- How to use: place a properly sized socket on the breaker bar and push/pull steadily; more leverage reduces required force to break a stubborn bolt or move a stiff tensioner.
- Why needed: if the tensioner or fasteners are stiff, a short ratchet may not give enough leverage.
- Serpentine belt tool or long 3/8" extension + swivel adapter (specialty alternative)
- Description: a thin, long bar with a drive fitting and a pivoting head designed to reach the tensioner in tight engine bays.
- How to use: insert the tool square drive into the tensioner’s recessed square hole or onto the tensioner bolt and rotate to release tension; hold while sliding belt off, then slowly release.
- Why needed: Aveo T200’s tensioner can sit close to other components; the serpentine belt tool gives the right angle and clearance when a ratchet won’t fit.
- Combination wrench set (open-end + box-end), metric (10mm–17mm)
- Description: single-piece hand wrenches with two ends for different access angles.
- How to use: use the box end for better grip on fasteners, open end where space is tight. Use to hold bolts while turning nuts or to remove bolts in cramped spots.
- Why needed: some bolts are easier to access with a wrench than a socket.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Description: wrench that measures applied torque to tighten bolts to manufacturer spec.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten until wrench clicks or indicates target torque.
- Why needed: when replacing a tensioner or pulley, bolts must be tightened to proper torque to avoid failure; improves safety and longevity.
- Flat-blade screwdriver and small pick
- Description: manual tools for prying or manipulating clips.
- How to use: gently pry covers, remove routing clips, or help line belt on small pulleys.
- Why needed: to remove splash shields or retainer clips and help guide the belt onto pulleys.
- Flashlight or work light
- Description: bright handheld light to see in the engine bay.
- How to use: illuminate the belt path, tensioner, and pulley faces while you work.
- Why needed: good visibility is essential for safe, correct routing and to inspect pulleys.
- Gloves and eye protection
- Description: protective gloves and safety glasses.
- How to use: wear to avoid cuts, scrapes, and debris in eyes.
- Why needed: protects you while working around sharp edges and spring-loaded parts.
- New serpentine/accessory belt (exact part matched to engine)
- Description: rubber multi-ribbed belt sized and ribbed to match your engine’s accessories.
- How to use: installed following the routing diagram; slides into pulley grooves and kept under tension by the tensioner.
- Why needed: belts wear, crack, or glaze and must be replaced when damaged or aged.
- Replacement tensioner and/or idler pulley (optional but often recommended)
- Description: spring-loaded tensioner assembly and smooth/idler pulleys with bearings.
- How to use: removed and installed with basic sockets/wrenches; tightened to torque spec.
- Why needed: tensioner springs and pulley bearings wear out — if noisy, loose, or leaking, replace at time of belt change to avoid immediate rework.
- Vehicle jack and jack stands or ramps (if extra clearance needed)
- Description: lift tools to raise the front of the car and secure it safely.
- How to use: use the jack to lift and place jack stands on solid pinch weld or designated lift points, never work under car supported only by a jack.
- Why needed: some Aveo engine bays are tight; raising the vehicle can improve access to the belt and tensioner from below.
- Safety and preparation
- Park on a flat surface, engage parking brake, chock the opposite wheels to prevent movement.
- Let the engine cool completely; belts and components get hot.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be working near electrical parts or if you must remove the alternator wiring.
- Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Take a clear photo or draw the belt routing before removing the old belt — you must install the new belt exactly the same way.
- How to identify the drive belt you have and whether it needs replacing
- Look for cracks across the ribs, fraying at the edges, glazing (shiny smooth rubber), missing ribs, or embedded debris.
- Squealing noise on startup or while driving, visible cracking, or looseness indicates replacement.
- If the belt is more than 4–6 years old, or manufacturer interval passed, replace proactively.
- If you find pulley wobble, grinding bearin g noises, or a weak tensioner spring (belt slips or can be moved excessively by hand), plan to replace those parts too.
- How to remove the old belt (process with tool use)
- Locate the drive/serpentine belt and find the spring-loaded tensioner; the tensioner typically has a square recess or a bolt head for applying a tool.
- Fit the appropriate socket or the belt tool into the tensioner’s square hole or onto its bolt; if using a ratchet, extend with a 3/8" extension or use a breaker bar for better leverage.
- Rotate the tensioner slowly toward the release direction (usually clockwise on Aveo designs) until tension releases from the belt.
- While holding the tensioner in the released position, slip the belt off one easy-to-reach pulley (usually the easiest is the alternator or idler pulley) — do not let the tensioner snap back suddenly.
- Gradually release the tensioner back to its resting position.
- Remove the remainder of the belt from the pulleys and take note (or photo) of the routing again.
- How to inspect pulleys and tensioner while belt is off
- Spin each pulley by hand; they should rotate smoothly without roughness or noise.
- Wiggle each pulley laterally to check for play; any side-to-side movement suggests a worn bearing.
- Inspect pulley faces for grooves, rust, or contamination from oil or coolant — contamination shortens belt life.
- Check the tensioner arm for cracks, broken indexing teeth (if present), or a weak spring (excessive movement when pressed).
- If any pulley or the tensioner shows wear, replace it now; it’s much easier than replacing a belt and then doing the belt again when a pulley fails.
- How to install the new belt (process with tool use)
- Confirm the replacement belt exactly matches the old belt’s rib count and length; compare side-by-side.
- Route the belt around all pulleys exactly as the routing diagram or your photo shows, leaving one pulley (usually the easiest to access) for last.
- Use the belt tool or breaker bar on the tensioner to rotate it again and create slack.
- Slide the belt onto the last pulley while holding the tensioner back; ensure the ribs fully seat in each pulley groove.
- Slowly release the tensioner so it applies tension to the new belt.
- Double-check that the belt is seated correctly on every pulley and that belt ribs match pulley grooves; run your finger along the ribs to confirm.
- If the belt tool was a breaker bar or ratchet, remove it carefully away from pinch points.
- Final checks and testing
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal if disconnected.
- Start the engine for a few seconds and observe belt tracking and pulley operation. Watch for unusual noises or movement.
- Turn engine off and re-check belt tension and seating after a short drive; new belts can shift slightly and may require re-inspection.
- Dispose of the old belt properly — rubber recycling or household hazardous waste options depending on local rules.
- When replacement parts beyond the belt are required, why, and what to buy
- Tensioner
- Why replace: spring weakens with age, internal wear, or visible damage; a failing tensioner causes belt slip, noise, and uneven wear.
- What to buy: a new OE-style tensioner assembly specific to Aveo T200 and engine (buy by VIN/engine code), or a reputable aftermarket equivalent (e.g., Dayco, Gates).
- Idler pulley(s)
- Why replace: pulley bearings wear and seize or wobble; a seized pulley will destroy a new belt quickly.
- What to buy: pulley(s) matching the belt routing for your engine; often sold individually or with a tensioner kit.
- Accessory bearings (alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump)
- Why replace: if a particular pulley (e.g., alternator) is noisy or rough, the whole accessory may need repair or replacement.
- What to buy: replacement part for the specific accessory (alternator, compressor) or have it rebuilt if bearings are the only issue.
- Belt (obviously)
- Why replace: old/damaged belt — ribs cracked, glazed, or worn.
- What to buy: exact size and type for your engine; give parts counter your VIN/engine size or original belt numbers. Buy a quality brand (Gates, Dayco, Bosch) rather than the cheapest belt.
- Replacement kits (belt + tensioner + idler)
- Why buy kit: saves time and money; replacing tensioner and idler with the belt reduces likelihood of repeat repairs.
- What to buy: “serpentine belt kit” for Aveo T200 from reputable brands or OEM kit.
- Helpful practical tips (no fluff)
- Always match the belt by exact rib count and length; visual match saves a return trip.
- If tensioner has a square hole, a 3/8" ratchet usually fits; if space is tight use a serpentine belt tool.
- Keep a phone photo of the belt routing; it prevents mistakes.
- If unsure about bolt sizes, test-fit sockets on bolts before forceful turning to avoid rounding heads.
- Replace tensioner and idler(s) proactively if over 80–100k miles or if you hear squealing/grinding — you’ll avoid a second job soon after.
- Quick troubleshooting (common problems and fixes)
- Squeal after install: re-check routing and proper seating; inspect pulleys for contamination; ensure tensioner applies adequate tension.
- New belt jumps off pulley: confirm correct belt length and that pulleys are aligned; a misaligned or bent pulley must be replaced.
- Tensioner won’t move: apply steady leverage with a breaker bar; if jammed, remove tensioner and replace the unit.
- Final reminders
- Match parts to your specific Aveo T200 engine variant — bring old belt or vehicle info to parts store for accurate fitment.
- Use proper tools (serpentine belt tool or long breaker bar) to avoid damaging the tensioner or slipping and injuring yourself.
- Replacing the belt is straightforward for a beginner with the right tools, but if pulleys or tensioner are bad or removal is obstructed, replace those parts or seek help.
No extra questions — follow these steps and tool uses, and replace tensioner/idler if they show wear.
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