Toyota Motor Corporation's A family is a family of automatic FWD/RWD/4WD transmissions built by Aisin-Warner. They share much in common with Volvo's AW7* and Aisin-Warner's 03-71* transmissions, which are found in Suzukis, Mitsubishis, and other Asian vehicles.
A = Aisin Automatic Second last digit denotes number of gears Last digit is the Toyota series number -E=Electronic control -F=Four wheel drive -H=AWD Transverse mount engine -L=Lock-up torque converter
A4xxFR Transmission
A440F Application: 1985-1992 Land Cruiser
A442F Application: 1993-1995 Land Cruiser
A45DE 4 Speed Automatic Transmission Application: 1998-2005 Lexus IS200
Gear Ratios: 1st 2.450 2nd 1.450 3rd 1.000 4th 0.730 Reverse 2.222 Final 4.300
- Overview
- Suspension alignment = adjusting toe, camber and caster (and sometimes thrust/rear toe) so wheels point and tilt correctly for safe handling, even tire wear and straight tracking.
- The A442F automatic transmission does not change the alignment procedure; alignment steps are the same regardless of transmission model. Transmission only matters if removed or if ride height changed by drivetrain work.
- A correct alignment normally requires shop equipment. A competent DIY can set toe accurately and approximate camber/caster, but if you need guaranteed specs, use a professional four-wheel alignment.
- Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface; avoid slopes.
- Use wheel chocks on opposite wheels to prevent rolling.
- Use a hydraulic floor jack appropriate for vehicle weight and rated jack stands to support the vehicle. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Keep hands, clothing and tools clear of suspension components when adjusting or testing.
- Use proper eye protection and gloves.
- Essential basic tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: A low-profile, pump-action jack designed to lift vehicles by the control arm or pinch welds.
- Use: Position under recommended lift point, pump handle until wheel clears ground. Do not use to hold vehicle—place jack stands before working beneath.
- Jack stands (pair or four)
- Description: Adjustable metal stands with locking pin or collar to support vehicle safely at set height.
- Use: After lifting, set stands under frame or designated lift points, lower vehicle onto stands, ensure stability before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Wedge-shaped rubber or plastic blocks to stop wheel movement.
- Use: Place behind/in front of wheels still on the ground to prevent rolling.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar and socket for lug nuts
- Description: Long-handled socket or wrench sized to your lug nuts for safe removal/installation.
- Use: Break lug nuts loose before jacking, torque properly when reinstalling.
- Torque wrench
- Description: Adjustable wrench that applies a specified torque to fasteners.
- Use: Tighten suspension and wheel nuts to factory torque specs (get specs from service manual or online source).
- Tape measure (metric and inches if available)
- Description: Retractable measuring tape for distances.
- Use: Measure wheelbase, track width and string distances for toe measurement.
- Straightedge or long carpenter’s level / 2–3 foot level
- Description: Rigid straight bar or level used to reference wheel plane and check camber roughly.
- Use: Hold vertical against tire to check camber against a level or measure offset from a vertical reference.
- String and stakes (or fisherman’s line) for the string alignment method
- Description: Thin but taut string and fixed points to create parallel reference lines around the car.
- Use: Wrap/tension string around vehicle at hub center height to measure toe by comparing distances from string to rim at front and rear of wheel.
- Bubble-type camber gauge or digital inclinometer / angle gauge
- Description: Small instrument that measures wheel-to-vertical angle (camber); digital versions give degrees.
- Use: Attach to wheel rim or hub, read camber angle; compare to spec and adjust suspension accordingly.
- Caster gauge or long level and protractor method (optional)
- Description: Caster gauge measures steering axis inclination; long level methods use measurable slopes to approximate caster.
- Use: Follow tool instructions or vehicle-specific method to determine caster angle; professional gauge recommended for accuracy.
- Adjustable wrench set and socket set (including deep sockets)
- Description: Standard hand tools to loosen and tighten tie rod ends, control arm bolts and cam bolts.
- Use: Use correct size sockets/wrenches to avoid rounding fasteners; apply penetrating oil to stuck bolts.
- Pliers and needle-nose pliers
- Description: For cotter pins and small clips.
- Use: Remove/install cotter pins when servicing tie rod ends or ball joints.
- Hammer and mallet
- Description: Standard and rubber mallets used to free stuck components gently.
- Use: Tap tie-rod sleeves or ball joints after loosening to separate.
- Penetrating oil and wire brush
- Description: Chemical to free corroded fasteners; brush to clean threads.
- Use: Soak rusty bolts before trying to free them.
- Pry bar
- Description: Metal bar for leverage to move control arms or alignment cams slightly.
- Use: Used when loosening and realigning components.
- Useful/professional tools (why they matter)
- Four-wheel alignment rack or computerized alignment machine
- Why required: Gives precise measurements for toe, camber, caster and thrust angle; required to reach manufacturer specs and for steering axis geometry corrections.
- If you want perfect factory alignment, use a shop with this equipment.
- Wheel alignment gauges / laser toe alignment tools
- Why required: Faster and more accurate than string/tape methods. Laser units attach to wheels and give real-time toe/camber data.
- Ball joint separator/pickle fork or press
- Why required: If you need to replace ball joints or remove control arms for camber/caster correction.
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Why required: Speeds removal of stubborn lug nuts and suspension bolts, but not strictly necessary.
- Preparation (what to do before adjusting)
- Inflate tires to recommended pressures and check for uneven wear or bulges.
- Ensure vehicle is at normal ride height (remove heavy loads from trunk, have fuel level representative).
- Check and tighten wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Inspect suspension and steering components for play, damage, rust or torn bushings; replace worn parts before aligning.
- Basic DIY alignment approach (what a beginner can do safely and effectively)
- Toe correction (most impactful DIY item)
- Use string method or tape measures around car:
- Place car on flat surface, jack if needed and support on stands (wheels must remain on the ground for toe adjustments; front wheels on ground). If doing with wheels off ground, use steering stops so wheel orientation is accurate.
- Create parallel strings along both sides of the car at hub-center height, anchored to stakes or attached to the rear bumper and hood area.
- Measure distance from string to front and rear edges of each rim. Difference = toe (front minus rear). Positive difference = toe-in, negative = toe-out.
- Adjust tie rod ends to change toe: loosen jam nut, turn tie rod to lengthen/shorten—turning one way moves wheel toe in, other way moves out. Make equal turns left/right to keep steering wheel centered.
- Re-measure until toe is within acceptable range (aim for factory spec; if unavailable, aim near zero total toe or slight toe-in as typical for street cars).
- Tighten jam nuts to specified torque.
- Camber check and adjustment (approximate DIY)
- Use a digital inclinometer or camber gauge attached to wheel rim.
- Measure camber left and right.
- Typical DIY adjustments: rotate strut top mount (if slotted) or use cam bolts on control arm (if vehicle has them) or add shims behind strut/upper control arm mount.
- If vehicle lacks adjustment points, camber is fixed by worn/ bent parts—replace components or visit shop.
- Caster check (difficult without special tool)
- Use a caster gauge or professional machine for accurate reading.
- Approximate method with long level and turning method exists but is imprecise.
- Caster adjustments usually require control arm repositioning, adjustable control arms, or strut mount changes—often beyond basic DIY.
- Center steering wheel and check tracking
- After toe adjustments, ensure steering wheel is centered by counting turns from lock-to-lock before and after adjustments or by measuring tie rod turns.
- Tighten all jam nuts and bolts to manufacturer torque.
- Test drive and re-check
- Drive at safe speeds, check straight-line tracking, steering wheel centering and return to center.
- Re-check toe after short drive and retighten as needed.
- How to use specific tools during the job (concise)
- Tape measure: measure distances from a fixed vehicle reference or string to wheel rim; keep tape taut and parallel to vehicle centerline.
- String and stakes: wrap string around car at hub height, tension using knots or clamps, ensure parallelism by measuring diagonals or equal distances at two points.
- Digital camber gauge: attach magnetically or strap to wheel rim; zero gauge on vertical reference then read wheel angle.
- Floor jack and jack stands: jack vehicle at stamped lift point, slide stands under frame, slowly lower onto stands and give vehicle a push to confirm stability.
- Torque wrench: set to specified value, tighten bolts smoothly to click reading; always torque suspension and wheel bolts to correct spec.
- Common parts that often need replacement for proper alignment (why and what)
- Outer and inner tie rod ends
- Why: Play causes toe to wander and steering to be vague; worn ends change toe under load.
- Replacement: Replace with OE or quality aftermarket tie rod ends; realign after replacement.
- Ball joints
- Why: Worn ball joints cause slop and can affect camber under load; unsafe when failing.
- Replacement: Press-in or bolt-in ball joints depending on vehicle; may require control arm removal.
- Control arm bushings
- Why: Worn bushings allow arm movement, changing camber/caster and causing wandering.
- Replacement: Replace bushings or entire control arm assembly; control arm replacement often easier.
- Struts and shocks
- Why: Worn or sagging struts change ride height and camber/caster geometry and produce uneven wear.
- Replacement: Replace strut cartridges or entire strut assembly; inspect mounts and springs.
- Cam bolts/shims (alignment adjustment hardware)
- Why: Damaged or missing cam bolts/shims prevent correct camber/caster adjustment.
- Replacement: Install correct cam bolts or shim sets per service manual.
- Wheel bearings and hub assemblies
- Why: Excessive play affects wheel alignment under load and creates noise; replacement restores proper wheel location.
- Replacement: Replace hub assembly or bearings with pressed-in bearings as specified.
- Steering rack mounts and bushings
- Why: Loose or worn mounts let rack move under load affecting toe/caster.
- Replacement: Replace mounting bushings or brackets.
- When parts must be replaced before aligning
- Any component with visible play, torn boots, severe rust, or movement when pried should be replaced first.
- Do not attempt to align if tie rod ends, ball joints or control arm bushings are loose—alignment will not hold and is unsafe.
- Limits of DIY alignment and when to go professional
- If you cannot measure or adjust camber and caster accurately, or steering wheel alignment is off after toe adjustment, go to a shop.
- If multiple components are worn or if vehicle has adjustable control arms, complex rear alignment needs, or advanced electronics (active steering, electronic differentials), use a professional alignment shop.
- Final notes and cautions
- Get vehicle-specific alignment specs (toe, camber, caster, thrust angle) from the service manual or dealer; do not guess critical specs.
- Tighten all fasteners to specified torque and use new cotter pins where required.
- If replacing suspension components, get an alignment immediately after installation.
- If you are uncomfortable doing this or lack tools like a camber gauge or torque wrench, have a shop perform the alignment.
- Quick summary of what you need as a beginner to get acceptable results
- Basic set: floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, socket/wrench set, tape measure, string or laser toe tool, digital camber gauge (recommended), penetrating oil.
- Expect to DIY toe adjustment; hire a shop for precise caster and camber and final verification.
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