Toyota Motor Corporation's A family is a family of automatic FWD/RWD/4WD transmissions built by Aisin-Warner. They share much in common with Volvo's AW7* and Aisin-Warner's 03-71* transmissions, which are found in Suzukis, Mitsubishis, and other Asian vehicles. A = Aisin Automatic Second last digit denotes number of gears Last digit is the Toyota series number -E=Electronic control -F=Four wheel drive -H=AWD Transverse mount engine -L=Lock-up torque converter A4xxFR Transmission A440F Application: 1985-1992 Land Cruiser A442F Application: 1993-1995 Land Cruiser A45DE 4 Speed Automatic Transmission Application: 1998-2005 Lexus IS200 Gear Ratios: 1st 2.450 2nd 1.450 3rd 1.000 4th 0.730 Reverse 2.222 Final 4.300

- Overview
- Suspension alignment = adjusting toe, camber and caster (and sometimes thrust/rear toe) so wheels point and tilt correctly for safe handling, even tire wear and straight tracking.
- The A442F automatic transmission does not change the alignment procedure; alignment steps are the same regardless of transmission model. Transmission only matters if removed or if ride height changed by drivetrain work.
- A correct alignment normally requires shop equipment. A competent DIY can set toe accurately and approximate camber/caster, but if you need guaranteed specs, use a professional four-wheel alignment.

- Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface; avoid slopes.
- Use wheel chocks on opposite wheels to prevent rolling.
- Use a hydraulic floor jack appropriate for vehicle weight and rated jack stands to support the vehicle. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Keep hands, clothing and tools clear of suspension components when adjusting or testing.
- Use proper eye protection and gloves.

- Essential basic tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: A low-profile, pump-action jack designed to lift vehicles by the control arm or pinch welds.
- Use: Position under recommended lift point, pump handle until wheel clears ground. Do not use to hold vehicle—place jack stands before working beneath.
- Jack stands (pair or four)
- Description: Adjustable metal stands with locking pin or collar to support vehicle safely at set height.
- Use: After lifting, set stands under frame or designated lift points, lower vehicle onto stands, ensure stability before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Wedge-shaped rubber or plastic blocks to stop wheel movement.
- Use: Place behind/in front of wheels still on the ground to prevent rolling.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar and socket for lug nuts
- Description: Long-handled socket or wrench sized to your lug nuts for safe removal/installation.
- Use: Break lug nuts loose before jacking, torque properly when reinstalling.
- Torque wrench
- Description: Adjustable wrench that applies a specified torque to fasteners.
- Use: Tighten suspension and wheel nuts to factory torque specs (get specs from service manual or online source).
- Tape measure (metric and inches if available)
- Description: Retractable measuring tape for distances.
- Use: Measure wheelbase, track width and string distances for toe measurement.
- Straightedge or long carpenter’s level / 2–3 foot level
- Description: Rigid straight bar or level used to reference wheel plane and check camber roughly.
- Use: Hold vertical against tire to check camber against a level or measure offset from a vertical reference.
- String and stakes (or fisherman’s line) for the string alignment method
- Description: Thin but taut string and fixed points to create parallel reference lines around the car.
- Use: Wrap/tension string around vehicle at hub center height to measure toe by comparing distances from string to rim at front and rear of wheel.
- Bubble-type camber gauge or digital inclinometer / angle gauge
- Description: Small instrument that measures wheel-to-vertical angle (camber); digital versions give degrees.
- Use: Attach to wheel rim or hub, read camber angle; compare to spec and adjust suspension accordingly.
- Caster gauge or long level and protractor method (optional)
- Description: Caster gauge measures steering axis inclination; long level methods use measurable slopes to approximate caster.
- Use: Follow tool instructions or vehicle-specific method to determine caster angle; professional gauge recommended for accuracy.
- Adjustable wrench set and socket set (including deep sockets)
- Description: Standard hand tools to loosen and tighten tie rod ends, control arm bolts and cam bolts.
- Use: Use correct size sockets/wrenches to avoid rounding fasteners; apply penetrating oil to stuck bolts.
- Pliers and needle-nose pliers
- Description: For cotter pins and small clips.
- Use: Remove/install cotter pins when servicing tie rod ends or ball joints.
- Hammer and mallet
- Description: Standard and rubber mallets used to free stuck components gently.
- Use: Tap tie-rod sleeves or ball joints after loosening to separate.
- Penetrating oil and wire brush
- Description: Chemical to free corroded fasteners; brush to clean threads.
- Use: Soak rusty bolts before trying to free them.
- Pry bar
- Description: Metal bar for leverage to move control arms or alignment cams slightly.
- Use: Used when loosening and realigning components.

- Useful/professional tools (why they matter)
- Four-wheel alignment rack or computerized alignment machine
- Why required: Gives precise measurements for toe, camber, caster and thrust angle; required to reach manufacturer specs and for steering axis geometry corrections.
- If you want perfect factory alignment, use a shop with this equipment.
- Wheel alignment gauges / laser toe alignment tools
- Why required: Faster and more accurate than string/tape methods. Laser units attach to wheels and give real-time toe/camber data.
- Ball joint separator/pickle fork or press
- Why required: If you need to replace ball joints or remove control arms for camber/caster correction.
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Why required: Speeds removal of stubborn lug nuts and suspension bolts, but not strictly necessary.

- Preparation (what to do before adjusting)
- Inflate tires to recommended pressures and check for uneven wear or bulges.
- Ensure vehicle is at normal ride height (remove heavy loads from trunk, have fuel level representative).
- Check and tighten wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Inspect suspension and steering components for play, damage, rust or torn bushings; replace worn parts before aligning.

- Basic DIY alignment approach (what a beginner can do safely and effectively)
- Toe correction (most impactful DIY item)
- Use string method or tape measures around car:
- Place car on flat surface, jack if needed and support on stands (wheels must remain on the ground for toe adjustments; front wheels on ground). If doing with wheels off ground, use steering stops so wheel orientation is accurate.
- Create parallel strings along both sides of the car at hub-center height, anchored to stakes or attached to the rear bumper and hood area.
- Measure distance from string to front and rear edges of each rim. Difference = toe (front minus rear). Positive difference = toe-in, negative = toe-out.
- Adjust tie rod ends to change toe: loosen jam nut, turn tie rod to lengthen/shorten—turning one way moves wheel toe in, other way moves out. Make equal turns left/right to keep steering wheel centered.
- Re-measure until toe is within acceptable range (aim for factory spec; if unavailable, aim near zero total toe or slight toe-in as typical for street cars).
- Tighten jam nuts to specified torque.

- Camber check and adjustment (approximate DIY)
- Use a digital inclinometer or camber gauge attached to wheel rim.
- Measure camber left and right.
- Typical DIY adjustments: rotate strut top mount (if slotted) or use cam bolts on control arm (if vehicle has them) or add shims behind strut/upper control arm mount.
- If vehicle lacks adjustment points, camber is fixed by worn/ bent parts—replace components or visit shop.

- Caster check (difficult without special tool)
- Use a caster gauge or professional machine for accurate reading.
- Approximate method with long level and turning method exists but is imprecise.
- Caster adjustments usually require control arm repositioning, adjustable control arms, or strut mount changes—often beyond basic DIY.

- Center steering wheel and check tracking
- After toe adjustments, ensure steering wheel is centered by counting turns from lock-to-lock before and after adjustments or by measuring tie rod turns.
- Tighten all jam nuts and bolts to manufacturer torque.

- Test drive and re-check
- Drive at safe speeds, check straight-line tracking, steering wheel centering and return to center.
- Re-check toe after short drive and retighten as needed.

- How to use specific tools during the job (concise)
- Tape measure: measure distances from a fixed vehicle reference or string to wheel rim; keep tape taut and parallel to vehicle centerline.
- String and stakes: wrap string around car at hub height, tension using knots or clamps, ensure parallelism by measuring diagonals or equal distances at two points.
- Digital camber gauge: attach magnetically or strap to wheel rim; zero gauge on vertical reference then read wheel angle.
- Floor jack and jack stands: jack vehicle at stamped lift point, slide stands under frame, slowly lower onto stands and give vehicle a push to confirm stability.
- Torque wrench: set to specified value, tighten bolts smoothly to click reading; always torque suspension and wheel bolts to correct spec.

- Common parts that often need replacement for proper alignment (why and what)
- Outer and inner tie rod ends
- Why: Play causes toe to wander and steering to be vague; worn ends change toe under load.
- Replacement: Replace with OE or quality aftermarket tie rod ends; realign after replacement.
- Ball joints
- Why: Worn ball joints cause slop and can affect camber under load; unsafe when failing.
- Replacement: Press-in or bolt-in ball joints depending on vehicle; may require control arm removal.
- Control arm bushings
- Why: Worn bushings allow arm movement, changing camber/caster and causing wandering.
- Replacement: Replace bushings or entire control arm assembly; control arm replacement often easier.
- Struts and shocks
- Why: Worn or sagging struts change ride height and camber/caster geometry and produce uneven wear.
- Replacement: Replace strut cartridges or entire strut assembly; inspect mounts and springs.
- Cam bolts/shims (alignment adjustment hardware)
- Why: Damaged or missing cam bolts/shims prevent correct camber/caster adjustment.
- Replacement: Install correct cam bolts or shim sets per service manual.
- Wheel bearings and hub assemblies
- Why: Excessive play affects wheel alignment under load and creates noise; replacement restores proper wheel location.
- Replacement: Replace hub assembly or bearings with pressed-in bearings as specified.
- Steering rack mounts and bushings
- Why: Loose or worn mounts let rack move under load affecting toe/caster.
- Replacement: Replace mounting bushings or brackets.

- When parts must be replaced before aligning
- Any component with visible play, torn boots, severe rust, or movement when pried should be replaced first.
- Do not attempt to align if tie rod ends, ball joints or control arm bushings are loose—alignment will not hold and is unsafe.

- Limits of DIY alignment and when to go professional
- If you cannot measure or adjust camber and caster accurately, or steering wheel alignment is off after toe adjustment, go to a shop.
- If multiple components are worn or if vehicle has adjustable control arms, complex rear alignment needs, or advanced electronics (active steering, electronic differentials), use a professional alignment shop.

- Final notes and cautions
- Get vehicle-specific alignment specs (toe, camber, caster, thrust angle) from the service manual or dealer; do not guess critical specs.
- Tighten all fasteners to specified torque and use new cotter pins where required.
- If replacing suspension components, get an alignment immediately after installation.
- If you are uncomfortable doing this or lack tools like a camber gauge or torque wrench, have a shop perform the alignment.

- Quick summary of what you need as a beginner to get acceptable results
- Basic set: floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, socket/wrench set, tape measure, string or laser toe tool, digital camber gauge (recommended), penetrating oil.
- Expect to DIY toe adjustment; hire a shop for precise caster and camber and final verification.
rteeqp73

Below is a clear, step‑by‑step beginner‑friendly guide to replacing the transmission (a.k.a. “strut”) mount on a Toyota A442F automatic transmission. I’ll explain what each component is, why the repair is needed, how the system works, what can go wrong, and give a safe, methodical procedure you can follow. Read all of it before starting and follow every safety note.

Note: “Strut mount” is sometimes used informally to mean the transmission mount or transaxle mount that supports the gearbox to the body or crossmember. The A442F is a Toyota automatic transaxle — the mount’s role and replacement procedure below describe a typical transaxle mount on Toyota FWD/AWD cars that use this transaxle. For vehicle‑specific torque specs, OEM fastener part numbers, or any special jigs, consult the factory service manual for your exact year/model.

Essentials — why this repair is needed (theory, analogy)
- Function: The transaxle mount supports the weight of the transmission/transaxle, keeps it aligned with the engine and driveline, and damps (absorbs) engine/transmission torque reaction and vibration using rubber or hydraulic material. Think of it as a pillow (rubber) or shock absorber between the heavy engine/transmission and the car’s body — it holds the part in place while cushioning movement.
- Why failure matters: When the mount’s rubber or bonding fails, or the metal bracket cracks, the gearbox can sag, shift position under load, cause harsh engagement/shift issues, vibration, clunks, drivetrain misalignment, accelerated wear of CV joints/axles/driveshafts, and sometimes fluid leaks. If mount fails fully, the transmission can contact the subframe or exhaust, causing severe damage.
- Symptoms: Excessive vibration at idle, banging/clunking during acceleration or deceleration, visible sag, misalignment of drivetrain, abnormal noises when shifting, or fluid contact marks near mount.

Main components you will see (every piece described)
- Transaxle body: heavy cast housing containing gears; the mount fastens to a boss on this housing or to an attached bracket.
- Transaxle mount (assembly): typically made of a metal sandwich with a rubber/isolation element. Two main styles:
- Bolt‑on mount: metal plate bolted to the transaxle with studs/bolts through a rubber isolator and a body bracket on the other side.
- Bracket mount: mount sits between a transaxle bracket and the vehicle crossmember.
- Mount bracket / crossmember: the metal part welded to the chassis or crossmember that receives the mount. Often removable.
- Mount bolts/studs/nuts: hold the mount to transaxle and to crossmember/bracket. Often grade 10.9 or similar.
- Crossmember: the structural member under the transmission that the mount and sometimes the exhaust or heat shield attach to.
- Engine support tool or jack + wood block: used to support engine/transaxle during removal.
- Heat shield / skid plate / splash shield: may need removal for access.
- Driveshaft/CV‑axle or halfshaft (FWD/AWD): sometimes needs to be loosened/moved to access mount bolts; often not removed fully.
- Fasteners/accessories: washers, lock nuts, insulators and any spacer pieces OEM design uses.

Tools & supplies (minimum)
- Floor jack and jack stands (rated for vehicle weight) OR lift.
- Transmission support / engine support tool OR second floor jack + wood block.
- Socket set (metric), extensions, universal joint.
- Wrenches (metric), breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (for final fastener torques).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster) for rusty bolts.
- Pry bar, screwdriver.
- Rubber mallet.
- Safety glasses, gloves.
- Replacement mount (OEM or equivalent), replacement hardware if necessary.
- Shop manual or OEM torque specifications printed or on phone.

Safety first — read this
- Never work under a car supported only by a jack. Use jack stands or a lift.
- Support the engine/transaxle before removing mounts — otherwise the engine/transmission can drop suddenly.
- Use proper safety gloves and eye protection.
- If bolt heads are rounded or corroded, be cautious when applying heat — gasoline and vapors may be present; avoid open flame near fuel.
- If you’re unsure about any step, get professional help.

Step‑by‑step procedure (beginner level, detailed)
Preparation
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, block rear wheels. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be near electrical connectors or working near the starter/exhaust.
2. Raise vehicle using a lift or floor jack under the vehicle’s safe jacking point. Place jack stands under the frame or designated lift points. Confirm vehicle is secure.
3. Locate the transaxle mount: usually under the transmission on the passenger side for many FWD Toyota models — follow the transaxle toward the rear and you’ll see a rubber mount between the gearbox and a crossmember/bracket.

Support engine/transaxle
4. Position a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan or under a service pad on the transaxle/engine so the load is distributed. Alternatively use an engine support bar across the engine bay. The goal: take most of the weight off the mount but do not jack so high you stress oil pan bolts.
5. Gently raise the jack until it contacts and just begins to lift the engine/transaxle slightly — just enough to take load off the mount. Do not fully lift the engine or overstress the jack/pan.

Remove interfering parts
6. Remove any heat shields, splash shields, or skid plates blocking access. Use penetrating oil on rusty fasteners beforehand.
7. If required on your model, slightly loosen the front lower control arm bolt or detach a bracket to gain clearance — only if necessary and only with proper support.

Unbolt mount from crossmember and transaxle
8. Identify the two sets of fasteners: those that attach the mount to the transaxle and those that attach the mount to the crossmember/body.
9. Loosen and remove the bolts/nuts that secure the mount to the crossmember first. Keep track of washers and spacers. If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow soak time; use breaker bar, not excessive force. Heating a stubborn bolt with a torch is an option only if safe and you know what you’re doing.
10. After crossmember fasteners are removed, support the transaxle so it won’t twist. Then remove the bolts that secure the mount to the transaxle housing. On some designs these are studs with nuts; on others bolts. Keep these fasteners if in good condition — replace if corroded.

Remove the mount assembly
11. With all fasteners removed, wiggle the mount out of its seat. It may be pressed or seated with an alignment sleeve—use a pry bar gently if needed. Note orientation precisely — you must install the new mount in the same orientation.

Compare old vs new
12. Inspect old mount: look at rubber for cracking, oil saturation, separation from metal, or metal fatigue. Compare to new mount to verify match of holes, orientation, stud lengths, and any spacers.

Install new mount
13. Clean mating surfaces on crossmember and transaxle. Remove rust and debris. If the new mount came with new bolts/studs, use them. If reusing old bolts, ensure threads are clean and fasteners are undamaged.
14. Position new mount in place, aligning studs/holes exactly as the old one was oriented.
15. Hand‑thread the transaxle side nuts/bolts first so mount is held to transaxle. Tighten finger‑tight only.
16. Reattach crossmember bolts/nuts, again hand‑threading first so everything lines up. If the crossmember had to be repositioned, ensure any spacer plates or washers are correctly placed.

Torque fasteners
17. Lower the jack slightly so the engine/transaxle settles onto the new mount just enough to seat it — do not fully load until torqued. Using a torque wrench, tighten the crossmember‑to‑mount bolts and then the transaxle‑to‑mount bolts to the OEM torque specs. If you do not have OEM specs, consult a factory manual. If absolutely necessary and you cannot access specs, typical medium steel bolts on mounts are often torqued in the 40–90 Nm (30–65 ft‑lb) range depending on size; do not guess — get the correct numbers.
18. If mount uses serrated washers or torque‑to‑yield fasteners, replace them per OEM instructions.

Reassembly & final checks
19. Reinstall any brackets, heat shields, and splash plates you removed.
20. Remove support jack slowly and allow engine/transaxle to rest on the new mount. Watch alignment; ensure nothing binds or rubs.
21. Lower vehicle from jack stands. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
22. Start engine, let idle, and observe for unusual vibrations or noises. With the transmission in neutral (and parking brake applied), have an assistant gently blip the throttle while you watch the engine/transaxle movement — it should be firm with controlled movement, not clunking or excessive rotation.
23. Test drive gently: accelerate, decelerate, shift through gears (automatic) and listen for clunks, vibrations, or misalignment. Re‑inspect mount bolts for correct torque after a short test drive (fasteners can settle).

What can go wrong during/after the repair (and how to avoid)
- Engine/transaxle drops when mount is removed: because you failed to support it adequately. Avoid by using a jack/engine support and never removing the last mount while the engine is unsupported.
- Sheared/stripped bolts: from excessive force or corrosion. Use penetrating oil, heat where safe, correct sockets, and proper breakers. Replace damaged hardware.
- Overlifting with jack: can damage oil pan or misalign components — use a wood block and lift only slightly.
- Incorrect orientation: install mount backwards or rotated, causing misalignment. Mark the old mount orientation with a marker before removal or take photos.
- Wrong mount or incorrect part: ensure the new mount exactly matches OEM location, bolt pattern, and stud lengths.
- Not torquing to spec: under‑torqued bolts can loosen; over‑torqued bolts can stretch or fail. Use a torque wrench and OEM specs.
- Damaging transmission housing: avoid using the lugs or thin bosses as lifting points — support weight properly.

Troubleshooting after replacement
- Still vibing at idle: check engine mounts too — one bad engine mount can mimic transmission mount symptoms.
- Clunking under acceleration: recheck bolt torque and orientation, ensure jack wasn’t holding drivetrain in a wrong position while torquing.
- Driveline vibration at speed: check driveshafts/CV joints and alignment; a worn mount can cause driveline angles to change and damage CV joints.
- Fluid leaks where no leak existed: verify no lines or seals were disturbed when removing the mount; check transmission fluid level and seals.

Maintenance tips & final thoughts
- Replace mounts as a set if multiple are old — that keeps balanced support.
- Use OEM or high‑quality aftermarket mounts; cheap mounts often fail quickly.
- If other components (crossmember, bracket) are cracked or corroded, replace them with new or refurbished parts.
- Keep fasteners clean and use anti‑seize on bolts that thread into aluminum or weak metals, but follow OEM guidance — don’t apply anti‑seize to torque‑to‑yield bolts.

Summary checklist before you start
- New mount that matches OEM
- Jack, jack stands, engine support, wood block
- Socket/wrench set & torque wrench
- Penetrating oil, PPE, shop manual (for torques)
- Clear workspace and time (1–3 hours typical for a competent beginner on a lift; longer if corrosion is bad)

This guide gives you the conceptual background, detailed components, safety precautions, and a stepwise process you can follow. Follow the factory manual for torque values and any model‑specific steps or special tools. If anything looks different on your vehicle than described, proceed cautiously or consult a shop manual or professional.
rteeqp73