The Mitsubishi Triton is a compact pickup truck produced by Mitsubishi Motors. In Japan it was originally known as the Mitsubishi Forte and from 1991 as the Strada. In the United States Chrysler Corporation sold captive imports as the Dodge Ram 50 and Plymouth Arrow truck, and Mitsubishi marketed it as the Mitsubishi Mighty Max until 2002.
For most export markets the name L200 is used though it also been known as the Rodeo, Colt, Storm, Magnum, L200 Strakar (badge used in Portugal since 1999, Strakar is a portmanteau of Strada and Dakar), and others.
Cumulative sales of the first three generations exceeded 2.8 million units around the world.
As of February 2021, the pickup truck is sold in every available Mitsubishi market except the United States, Canada, Japan, India and China. In Japan, it was previously sold at a specific retail chain called Car Plaza.
In 2015, Fiat Professional launched a rebadged version as the Fiat Fullback. In 2016, Ram Trucks launched a rebadged version as the Ram 1200 for the Middle East market. The Dodge Dakota-based Mitsubishi Raider is unrelated to the Mitsubishi Triton.
The fourth generation Triton was released in 2005. Designed by Akinori Nakanishi, it was built exclusively by Mitsubishi's subsidiary in Thailand and was exported to 140 global markets. It was mostly known as L200 except for Japan and its subsidiary countries' markets. The car had a 2.5-litre turbodiesel engine developing 134 kW (180 hp). The base version, available in some markets such as the Dominican Republic, had a 2.5-litre normally aspirated diesel engine and the L200 off-road version called the Savana had 200 hp.
In Japan, the Triton was exclusively equipped with 3.5-litre petrol engine and 4-speed automatic transmission and was sold from 2006 to 2011 - the only pick-up truck in the market at that time (excluding kei trucks). Despite its success overseas, it was a critical failure in Japan as workmen and traders preferred vans and station wagons. As a result, in August 2011 the Triton was pulled out from Mitsubishi's Japanese lineup.

### Muffler Replacement on a Mitsubishi Triton L200

#### Overview of the Exhaust System

The exhaust system in your Mitsubishi Triton L200 is crucial for directing harmful gases away from the engine and cabin, reducing noise, and improving engine efficiency. The main components include:

1. **Exhaust Manifold**: Collects exhaust gases from the engine.
2. **Catalytic Converter**: Converts harmful gases into less harmful substances.
3. **Muffler**: Reduces noise produced by the engine.
4. **Exhaust Pipes**: Connect various components and direct gases to the rear of the vehicle.

#### Why Replace the Muffler?

- **Noise Reduction**: A damaged or rusted muffler can increase engine noise, making the vehicle sound louder.
- **Exhaust Flow**: A clogged or damaged muffler can restrict exhaust flow, decreasing engine performance and fuel efficiency.
- **Emissions Control**: A malfunctioning muffler can lead to higher emissions, failing vehicle inspections.

#### Tools and Components Needed

**Tools:**
- Socket set (including ratchet)
- Wrenches (various sizes)
- Screwdriver set
- Jack and jack stands
- Safety glasses
- Work gloves
- Muffler hanger tool (optional)
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40)

**Components:**
- New muffler (specific to Mitsubishi Triton L200)
- Exhaust pipe clamps (if needed)
- Exhaust hangers (if worn)

#### Step-by-Step Replacement Process

1. **Preparation**:
- Ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface and the engine is cool.
- Wear safety glasses and work gloves.

2. **Lift the Vehicle**:
- Use a jack to lift the rear of the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.

3. **Locate the Muffler**:
- The muffler is typically located at the rear part of the exhaust system, near the back of the vehicle.

4. **Inspect the Muffler**:
- Check for rust, holes, or damage. If you notice any issues, a replacement is necessary.

5. **Remove Old Muffler**:
- **Disconnect Hangers**: Locate the rubber hangers holding the muffler in place. Use the muffler hanger tool or your hands to slide the muffler out of the hangers.
- **Loosen Clamps**: If the muffler is secured with clamps, use a socket or wrench to loosen them. If bolts are rusted, apply penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes.
- **Remove Muffler**: Once the clamp is loose, gently pull the muffler off the exhaust pipe. You might need to twist it a bit to free it.

6. **Install New Muffler**:
- **Position Muffler**: Align the new muffler with the exhaust pipe. Ensure the inlet side (where it connects to the pipe) is properly aligned.
- **Secure with Clamps**: If your new muffler uses clamps, tighten them securely but be careful not to over-tighten and damage the muffler.
- **Reattach Hangers**: Slide the new muffler into the rubber hangers. Ensure it’s securely positioned and doesn’t move around.

7. **Check Connections**:
- Inspect all connections to ensure they are tight and secure. Look for signs of misalignment or gaps.

8. **Lower the Vehicle**:
- Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle back to the ground.

9. **Test the System**:
- Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. Check for exhaust leaks by feeling for air around the connections or listening for hissing sounds.

#### Potential Issues

- **Rust and Corrosion**: Over time, the exhaust system can corrode due to moisture and road salt, leading to leaks or complete failure.
- **Clogging**: The muffler can become clogged with soot and debris, causing back pressure and reduced performance.
- **Hanger Failure**: Rubber hangers can deteriorate, leading to muffler sagging or detachment.

### Conclusion

Replacing the muffler on your Mitsubishi Triton L200 is a straightforward task. By understanding the components of the exhaust system and following the steps methodically, you can improve your vehicle’s performance and reduce noise. Always prioritize safety and double-check your work after installation.
rteeqp73

Brief theory — what the input-shaft bearing does and how it fails
- Function: the input-shaft bearing supports the transmission input shaft radially (and sometimes axially), keeping the shaft concentric with the gearbox casing and allowing smooth rotation with minimal friction. Proper support maintains gear mesh geometry, synchro function and seal alignment.
- Failure modes: wear (race/roller/brinelling), pitting from contamination, lubricant breakdown, excessive radial/axial loads from clutch misalignment, or shaft journal damage. Consequences: whining/growling or rumble at certain speeds, rough or difficult gear engagement, increased gear and synchro wear, metal debris in gearbox oil, excessive input-shaft endfloat or runout.
- Diagnosis indicators (theory): bearing noise that changes with engine speed but not with road speed (if clutch disengaged), play measured at input shaft, metal particles in oil, vibration. Confirm by isolating engine vs drivetrain rotation and by prying/feeling input shaft play with gearbox removed or half-disassembled.

Ordered procedure with theory explained at each stage
1) Preparation and safety
- Theory: correct support and cleanliness prevent secondary damage and contamination.
- Actions: work on flat surface, disconnect battery, lift vehicle safely, support engine/transmission with jack/transmission jack and engine support.

2) Drain gearbox oil
- Theory: prevents oil spillage and allows inspection of contaminants in the oil for diagnosis.
- Actions: remove drain/fill plugs, collect oil and inspect for metal particles.

3) Remove driveline items and separate transmission from engine
- Theory: to access input shaft you must remove clutch/pressure plate/cover or otherwise separate the transmission from the engine so the input shaft can be removed.
- Actions: remove prop shaft/drive shaft, clutch release mechanism, bellhousing bolts, then separate gearbox from engine and lower to a bench. Support clutch assembly if reusing.

4) Remove clutch assembly and pilot/bushing if needed
- Theory: the input shaft passes through/clutches to the pilot bearing; removing them prevents interference and allows inspection of pilot bearing which commonly fails together.
- Actions: remove clutch disc and pressure plate, inspect and replace pilot bearing/bushing if worn.

5) Disassemble gearbox to expose input shaft
- Theory: the input bearing is usually inside the case; full or partial gearbox disassembly is necessary to remove the shaft and bearing. Use the service manual sequence to avoid damaging synchronizers and gears.
- Actions: on a bench, remove gearbox cover/case halves per manual, keep fasteners labeled; remove selector forks/shafts as needed, then remove any snap rings or retaining plates that hold the input shaft assembly.

6) Extract the input shaft
- Theory: the shaft must be free of gears/synchronizers that prevent bearing removal. Removing the shaft lets you inspect shaft journals and mating surfaces for wear that can spoil a new bearing.
- Actions: slide shaft out carefully; note orientation and order of spacers, washers, and gears.

7) Remove the old bearing
- Theory: bearings are press-fit; correct removal prevents housing or shaft damage. Heat/cold differentials can aid removal without overstressing parts.
- Actions: use bearing puller or press, or use controlled heating of the case (not the bearing) and cold of the bearing if necessary. Avoid hammering on the inner race (that would damage the shaft).

8) Inspect mating parts
- Theory: a new bearing on a damaged journal or housing will fail quickly. Check shaft journal roundness, keyways, splines, gear faces, bearing seat, and snap ring grooves.
- Actions: measure journals with micrometer, check runout, inspect case bore for scoring, replace shaft or machine surfaces if out of spec. Replace associated seals, circlips, and pilot bushing proactively.

9) Prepare and install the new bearing
- Theory: bearings must be installed to the proper interference fit and orientation so preload/endfloat and alignment are correct. Cleanliness and lubrication per spec are critical.
- Actions: clean housing and shaft, lightly oil splines but do not pack bearing with grease unless specified, press the bearing onto the shaft or into the case using a press or driver that contacts the correct race (press on outer race when installing into bore; press on inner race when installing onto shaft if the race fits the shaft). Heat the housing (e.g., 80–120 °C) to ease installation or cool the bearing if available. Fit new circlips/seals as required.

10) Reassemble input shaft assembly and check endfloat/preload
- Theory: correct axial clearance (endfloat) and bearing preload restore proper gear mesh and prevent bearing or gear damage. Measuring and adjusting shims or spacers is how you set this.
- Actions: reinsert shaft with all gears/spacers exactly as removed, install retaining plates/snap rings, measure input shaft axial play with a dial indicator; adjust shim(s) or spacer stack to achieve manufacturer spec. If bearings are angular-contact or preloaded, set preload per manual (torque and/or nut turns with lock method).

11) Reassemble gearbox, replace seals and gaskets
- Theory: restoring the gearbox to a sealed, lubricated state prevents contamination and ensures proper lubrication of the new bearing.
- Actions: fit new case gasket/sealant as specified, torque case bolts, replace front/rear seals, fit cover.

12) Reinstall transmission to engine and reassemble driveline
- Theory: proper alignment of clutch and input shaft prevents misloads on the new bearing.
- Actions: align clutch disc with alignment tool, mate gearbox to engine without forcing, torque bellhousing and clutch bolts to spec, reconnect driveshaft, linkage, and hydraulic lines.

13) Fill with correct gearbox oil and run initial checks
- Theory: correct lubricant specification and level ensure bearing life and proper gear cushioning.
- Actions: fill to correct level, run engine and shift through gears with vehicle stationary to feel engagement, check for abnormal noise, then road-test. Recheck for leaks and final torque recheck after a short run.

How the repair fixes the fault — theory summary
- Replacing the input-shaft bearing restores accurate radial support and concentricity of the input shaft. That
- reduces shaft runout and endplay,
- restores correct gear mesh geometry so gears and synchros engage smoothly,
- removes a noisy, frictional rolling element, eliminating whining/rumbling,
- removes a source of metal debris and contamination inside the gearbox,
- prevents accelerated wear of adjacent gears, shafts, and synchronizers.
- Proper fit, shim/preload and seal replacement are essential: a correctly installed bearing without correct axial clearance or on a damaged shaft will not resolve the root cause and will fail prematurely.

Final checks (concise)
- Inspect gearbox oil for metal debris after first few hundred km.
- Re-measure input-shaft endfloat and listen for bearing noise at varying engine RPM with clutch engaged and disengaged.
- If noise/roughness persists, inspect shaft journals and gear faces — replacing bearing alone fixes the support but not a damaged shaft or misaligned clutch.

Use factory service manual values and procedures for torque, shim sizes, bearing types and endfloat specs.
rteeqp73