1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009

In the 1998 model year, Mazda renewed its B series for international markets. Production at the AutoAlliance Thailand plant began in May 1998. It has the chassis code UN. This model was also sold as the Ford Ranger in Europe and Asia and as the Ford Courier in Australia and New Zealand. Production also began that year at the Ford Motor Company Philippines plant. CKD versions were also assembled in South Africa and Ecuador. In March 2002 a 2892 cc (2.9-liter) version of the naturally aspirated 2.5-liter diesel engine was also developed and sold in "general markets" and the Gulf States as the B2900.The truck was sold in more than 130 countries under a variety of names. It was called the Fighter and Ranger in Southeast Asia—except in Singapore where it was called the Proceed—the Mazda Bounty and Ford Courier in New Zealand, the Mazda Bravo in Australia, and the Mazda Drifter in South Africa. The B2600/B2200s sold in Venezuela and nearby Latin American countries were assembled in Colombia by Compañía Colombiana Automotriz S.A. (CCA). They had a 2.6-liter inline-four engine, four-wheel-drive model and an entry level model with a 2.2-liter inline-four with rear-wheel-drive. In 2002, a "Freestyle" model with rear suicide doors became available on this platform. The rest of the range was revised in 2002 and 2004. These models are unrelated to the Mazda B-series and Ford Ranger models in North America.In Australia, in January 2005, the Courier received a 4.0 V6. It was available in GL (Super Cab and Double Cab) and XLT (Double Cab only) trims. The B series was released in September 2005, with the B4000 Bravo DX (Dual Cab only), DX+ (Freestyle and Dual Cab) and SDX (Freestyle and Dual Cab) trims being available.There were two fuel tank sizes available. For the 2WD Stretch Cab and Dual Cab, the fuel tank size is 63 L. For all 4WD models (and the 2WD Regular Cab), the fuel tank size

### Suspension Strut Tower Repair on Mazda Bravo Drifter B2600 B2500

#### Tools Needed:
1. **Socket Set (including 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets)**
2. **Torque Wrench**
3. **Pry Bar**
4. **Spring Compressor**
5. **Jack and Jack Stands**
6. **Hammer**
7. **Wrench Set**
8. **Cutting Tool (if necessary)**
9. **Safety Goggles**
10. **Gloves**
11. **Replacement Parts (if needed)**
- Strut assembly
- Strut mounts
- Bushings
- Nuts and bolts (if worn)

#### Safety Precautions:
1. **Wear Safety Goggles and Gloves:** Protect your eyes and hands from metal shards and other debris.
2. **Work on a Flat Surface:** Ensure the vehicle is parked on a stable surface.
3. **Use Jack Stands:** Never rely solely on a jack; always use jack stands for support.
4. **Disconnect Battery:** Avoid electrical shorts by disconnecting the battery before starting work.

#### Step-by-Step Repair Process:

1. **Preparation:**
- Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the parking brake.
- Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

2. **Lift the Vehicle:**
- Use a jack to lift the front of the vehicle.
- Secure with jack stands under the frame.

3. **Remove the Wheel:**
- Use a socket wrench to remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.

4. **Access the Strut Assembly:**
- Locate the strut assembly components. Remove any covers if necessary.

5. **Disconnect Strut from the Steering Knuckle:**
- Remove the bolt connecting the strut to the steering knuckle using the appropriate socket size (usually 17mm).
- Use a pry bar if necessary to separate the strut from the knuckle.

6. **Remove the Strut Assembly:**
- Locate the top strut mount bolts (usually 12mm or 14mm) and remove them using a socket.
- Carefully pull the strut assembly out from the bottom.

7. **Compress the Spring:**
- Place the spring compressor on the strut assembly and tighten it slowly to compress the spring.
- Ensure the spring is uniformly compressed and secure before proceeding.

8. **Remove the Strut Mount:**
- Unbolt the strut mount from the top of the strut assembly.
- Inspect the mount for wear; replace if necessary.

9. **Replace Strut Components:**
- If the strut is damaged, replace it with a new one.
- If the mount or bushings are worn, replace them as well.

10. **Reassemble the Strut:**
- Install the new strut mount onto the strut.
- Carefully remove the spring compressor and ensure the spring is seated properly.

11. **Reinstall the Strut Assembly:**
- Insert the strut back into its original position.
- Reattach the top bolts (torque to manufacturer's specifications).

12. **Reconnect to Steering Knuckle:**
- Align the strut with the steering knuckle and insert the bolt.
- Tighten to specified torque.

13. **Reattach the Wheel:**
- Place the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to specifications.

14. **Reconnect Battery:**
- Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

15. **Test Drive:**
- Take a short test drive to ensure everything is functioning correctly.
- Listen for any unusual noises and check for proper alignment.

#### Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- **Not Compressing the Spring Properly:** Ensure the spring compressor is securely attached. Failure to do so can result in injury.
- **Not Torqueing Bolts to Specification:** Always use a torque wrench to ensure the bolts are tightened to the correct specifications to avoid future failures.
- **Ignoring Worn Components:** Inspect all related components (strut mounts, bushings, etc.) and replace them if necessary to prevent future issues.

By following these steps and precautions, you'll ensure a safe and effective strut tower repair on a Mazda Bravo Drifter B2600 B2500.
rteeqp73

Job: Replace rear differential output (pinion) seal — Mazda Bravo/Drifter B2500 / B2600

Tools & parts
- Tools: jack & axle stands, wheel chocks, drain pan, socket set + ratchet, breaker bar, extension, torque wrench, 6–pt socket for pinion/flange nut (if needed), screwdriver/pry bar, seal puller (hook or internal), slide hammer (optional), soft‑mallet, punch or drift, seal driver set or appropriate diameter pipe/socket, wire brush, brake cleaner/parts cleaner, rags, gasket scraper, plastic/nylon scraper, pick, shop light, gloves, safety glasses.
- Parts/consumables: correct replacement pinion/output shaft seal (OE spec), gear oil (correct grade & quantity for diff), new pinion flange nut and crush sleeve (if pinion nut removed — strongly recommended to replace crush sleeve), new diff cover gasket or RTV (if removing cover), threadlocker, anti‑seize (optional).

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground, engage parking brake, chock front wheels.
- Use quality jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Gear oil is slippery; clean spills immediately.
- If pinion nut must be removed, understand you’ll disturb bearing preload — follow factory procedure or have shop equipment. If unsure, don’t remove pinion nut; use puller method below.

Overview of the correct approach
- Best practice: replace the seal without disturbing the pinion bearings or pinion nut/crush sleeve. This avoids resetting preload. Remove the driveshaft flange and pull the seal out from the housing/collector area using a seal puller/slide hammer. If pinion nut must be removed, plan to replace the crush sleeve and set preload (shop press or dial indicator method) or have a shop do it.

Step-by-step procedure (no pinion nut removal)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock front wheels, raise rear of vehicle and secure on stands. Remove driveshaft bolts at the differential yoke (mark orientation for re‑installation).
- Place drain pan under differential and loosen the differential cover bolts or remove the small drain plug (if equipped) and drain gear oil.

2. Expose the seal area
- With fluid drained, clean the rear of the differential housing around the output shaft to remove dirt/debris so no contamination enters when seal is opened.
- If equipped with a retainer or circlip behind the flange, identify and remove it (small snap ring pliers may be needed). Otherwise, the flange is held by the pinion nut or inner shoulder.

3. Remove the driveshaft flange/yoke
- Remove the yoke flange from the pinion shaft. If bolted, unbolt the flange. If pressed on with nut, remove the nut only if you will replace crush sleeve and reset preload — avoid if you lack the tools.
- If the flange is stuck, use a slide hammer on the yoke or use a pair of studs and a flange puller to press it off. Protect the yoke/adjoining surfaces from damage.

4. Pull the old seal
- Use a seal puller (hook type) and engage the inner lip of the seal behind the retaining edge. Rotate and lever the seal out evenly. If access is tight, use a small pry bar or pick to break the seal lip and work the hook around.
- For stubborn seals, use a slide hammer with an internal puller or carefully cut the outer rubber and pry out the metal case — take care not to score the bore.

5. Inspect
- Clean the seal bore with brake cleaner and a wire brush gently. Inspect the pinion shaft for grooving or damage where the seal rides. Inspect yoke flange faces and nut threads. If the pinion shaft is damaged, replace/repair before installing new seal.

6. Install the new seal
- Lubricate the seal lip with gear oil. Position the new seal square to the bore.
- Use a seal driver or an appropriately sized socket that bears on the metal case of the seal (not the rubber lip). Tap evenly with a mallet until the seal is seated flush with the housing bore. Ensure it goes in straight — uneven seating will leak.
- If the flange was removed, slide the flange back onto pinion shaft and reinstall any circlip/retainer if present.

7. Reassemble driveshaft flange without removing pinion nut
- If you avoided removing the pinion nut, reinstall the flange and fasten bolts to factory torque. If the flange was retained by the pinion nut and you had to remove it, you must replace the crush sleeve and torque to spec while setting preload — see notes below.

8. Refill and test
- Reinstall differential cover or tighten drain/fill plugs. Refill differential with correct gear oil to specified level. Reinstall driveshaft, torque bolts to spec.
- Lower vehicle, run at low speed and inspect for leaks. Road‑test and recheck oil level after a short drive.

How the tools are used
- Seal puller: hook behind the inner lip of the seal and pull/lever the seal straight out. Use even pressure around circumference to avoid collapsing the case.
- Slide hammer: attach to flange or internal puller to give impact force for sticky/flange removal.
- Seal driver/socket: center the seal and strike evenly to seat flush. Do not strike on the rubber edge.
- Flange puller/press studs: used to separate the flange from pinion without marring surfaces.
- Torque wrench: required for reassembly to apply correct bolt and nut torques.

When removing the pinion nut — crucial notes
- Many Mazda B‑series diffs use a crush sleeve or specific preload arrangement. If you remove the pinion nut you will disturb the bearing preload and must replace the crush sleeve and correctly set pinion bearing preload using factory procedure (special tools or a torque‑turn method / dial indicator for rotation torque).
- If you must remove the nut and do not have the tooling/knowledge, have a reputable shop perform the job. Incorrect preload will cause premature bearing failure.

Replacement parts required
- New output/pinion seal (OE part number recommended).
- Gear oil (as specified for B2500/B2600 differential).
- New pinion flange nut and crush sleeve if pinion nut is removed.
- Diff cover gasket or RTV if cover is removed.
- Snap ring/circlip if damaged on removal.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Removing pinion nut without replacing crush sleeve or setting preload: leads to bearing failure. Avoid removing nut if possible.
- Installing seal cocked or uneven: causes immediate leaks. Use correct driver and seat square.
- Damaging seal bore or pinion shaft surface: causes leaks and accelerated seal wear. Protect and inspect surfaces; replace shaft or bore sleeve if scored.
- Reusing old seal: waste of time—always use new seal.
- Contaminating gear oil: keep work area clean; use clean funnels and rags.
- Using wrong seal orientation: lip should face the fluid (i.e., lip toward inside of differential). Confirm new seal orientation before driving in.

Final check
- After reassembly and fill, verify no leaks at slow idle and after a short drive. Re‑check fluid level and torque on flange bolts after heat cycle.

End.
rteeqp73

Certainly! Here’s a structured explanation of how to perform a transmission repair on a Mazda Bravo Drifter B2600/B2500, focusing on the theory behind each step:

### 1. **Diagnosis**
- **Theory**: Understanding the symptoms (slipping, hard shifting, noises) helps identify the problem area (e.g., fluid leaks, worn components).
- **Process**: Use diagnostic tools to check for error codes and perform a visual inspection of the transmission and associated components.

### 2. **Fluid Change**
- **Theory**: Transmission fluid lubricates, cools, and provides hydraulic pressure for shifting. Contaminated or low fluid can cause erratic behavior.
- **Process**: Drain old fluid, replace the filter (if applicable), and refill with manufacturer-recommended fluid. This restores proper function.

### 3. **Remove Transmission**
- **Theory**: Access is required to internal components for inspection and repair. The transmission must be detached from the engine and drivetrain.
- **Process**: Disconnect the battery, remove driveshafts, unbolt the transmission from the engine, and lower it carefully.

### 4. **Disassemble Transmission**
- **Theory**: Identifying worn or damaged parts (clutches, gears, seals) is crucial for effective repair. Each component plays a role in transmission function.
- **Process**: Remove the transmission case and inspect internal components. Take note of any wear patterns or damage.

### 5. **Inspect Components**
- **Theory**: Understanding the function of each component (clutch packs, solenoids, bands) helps determine the source of the issue.
- **Process**: Measure parts for wear against specifications; replace any that are out of tolerance or damaged.

### 6. **Replace Worn Parts**
- **Theory**: Replacing damaged parts restores the transmission's ability to shift smoothly and handle the power from the engine.
- **Process**: Install new clutches, seals, gaskets, and any necessary components. Ensure proper alignment and fit.

### 7. **Reassemble Transmission**
- **Theory**: A properly reassembled transmission ensures that all components work harmoniously, maintaining pressure and fluid flow.
- **Process**: Follow assembly order, ensuring all bolts are torqued to specification and that the case is sealed correctly.

### 8. **Reinstall Transmission**
- **Theory**: Proper alignment and secure mounting are essential for the transmission to function correctly without vibration or misalignment.
- **Process**: Lift the transmission back into place, bolt it to the engine, and reconnect the driveshafts and electrical connections.

### 9. **Fluid Fill and Test**
- **Theory**: Filling the transmission with the correct amount of fluid and testing ensures that the system is properly lubricated and pressurized.
- **Process**: Fill with new fluid to the indicated level. Start the engine and check for leaks while cycling through gears to ensure proper operation.

### 10. **Final Check**
- **Theory**: A final inspection helps ensure that the repair was successful, and the transmission operates without issues.
- **Process**: Test drive the vehicle, monitoring for any abnormal sounds or shifting issues. Check fluid levels again after the test drive.

### Conclusion
Each step in the repair process targets specific issues related to transmission performance, ensuring that the unit functions reliably and efficiently once reassembled. Understanding the underlying theory aids in diagnosing problems and performing repairs effectively.
rteeqp73