The Mazda BT-50 (model code J97M) is a compact/mid-sized pickup truck produced by the Japanese manufacturer Mazda since 2006. It is a larger version of the predecessor B-Series pickup and is not sold in the Japanese and North American markets. Until 2011, Ford had also sold a version of the first-generation BT-50 as the Ford Ranger and as the SUV Ford Everest. From 2011 the second-generation Ranger has been designed by Ford Australia, with a Mazda derivative sold as the BT-50.

The Mazda BT-50 (model code J97M) is a compact/mid-sized pickup truck produced by the Japanese manufacturer Mazda since 2006. It is a larger version of the predecessor B-Series pickup and is not sold in the Japanese and North American markets. Until 2011, Ford had also sold a version of the first-generation BT-50 as the Ford Ranger and as the SUV Ford Everest. From 2011 the second-generation Ranger has been designed by Ford Australia, with a Mazda derivative sold as the BT-50.

Ford also offers an SUV version of the Ranger, known as the Ford Everest in Asia, Central America, and the Bahamas, and since late 2009 as a 2010 model, in South Africa, where it replaces the Australian-sourced Ford Territory. In India, it is called the Ford Endeavour.

The second-generation Everest has three rows of seating, and rear- or four-wheel drive. It offers Duratorq diesel engines and two different drivetrains: 4x2 for 2.5-liter 143 hp (107 kW) models, and 4x4 for 3.0-liter 156 hp (116 kW) models. In addition, the redesign featured the new five-speed automatic transmission with a Borg Warner transfer case, and the new Active-Shift-on-the-Fly (4x4 only) for the first time.

In the United States, Ford had planned to name an extended-length version of the Ford Expedition the Everest in 2006 as a replacement for the Ford Excursion, but changed at the last minute and decided to rename it the Expedition EL.[4]

In mid-2009, the Everest received a facelift in Southeast Asia, in line with the Ranger's recent update. This facelifted 2009 edition of the Ford Everest continues to be available with either a 2.5-liter turbodiesel with 143 PS (105 kW; 141 hp) or a 3.0-liter turbodiesel with 156 PS (115 kW; 154 hp).

Also, a model for east Africa has a 2.5-liter turbodiesel with only 107 PS (79 kW; 106 hp), torque 268/2000. In Singapore, the Everest is used by Singapore Guards as a Protected Light Utility Vehicle.

A third facelifted model of the Everest was unveiled at the Manila International Auto Show in April 2013. On 29 April 2014, the third facelift Ford Endeavour was launched in India. This Endeavour features a touch-sensitive SATNAV entertainment system with Navigation Bluetooth audio control and reverse parking camera. Its manual variant comes with a 2.5-liter Duratorq TDCi paired to a five-speed manual transmission.

2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011

Tools & consumables needed
- Clean shop rags/paper towels
- Nitrile or mechanic gloves
- Flashlight
- Small flat-blade pick or screw driver (for removing/inspecting O‑ring or PCV valve)
- Soft-jaw pliers or rubber strap wrench (only if cap is stuck; avoid metal pliers on plastic)
- Mild brake cleaner or engine-degreaser (optional, to clean around filler)
- Replacement oil filler cap and/or cap O‑ring gasket and/or PCV valve (if worn)
- Wheel chocks (parking safety)

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface with the parking brake on and wheels chocked.
- Engine must be OFF and cool to avoid burns from hot valve cover or pressurised oil vapors.
- Wear gloves and eye protection when cleaning oil and debris.
- Do not smoke or have open flames nearby — oil vapors can ignite.
- Avoid using metal pliers or adjustable wrenches on the plastic cap — they will crush or damage it and can cause leaks.

Step‑by‑step procedure (Mazda BT‑50 / Ford Ranger; all piston engines—location = valve cover oil filler neck)
1. Park, chock, cool:
- Park the vehicle level, engage park/handbrake, chock wheels, let engine cool to avoid burns.

2. Open bonnet and locate cap:
- Open bonnet and move to front of vehicle. The oil filler cap sits on the valve cover (top of the engine); it is typically a round twist cap labeled “Engine Oil” or with an oil can icon.

3. Clean around cap:
- Use a rag and flashlight to wipe loose dirt and debris from around the cap and filler neck. This prevents contamination when cap is removed.

4. Remove cap:
- Grip the cap by hand and turn counter‑clockwise. Most caps are hand‑threaded and will unscrew easily.
- If it’s tight, use a rubber strap wrench or soft‑jaw pliers (light pressure) — avoid metal jaws directly on plastic. Do NOT use cheater bars; excessive force can break the cap or threads.

5. Inspect cap and sealing surfaces:
- Check cap for cracks, broken retaining tabs, or a hardened/flat/damaged rubber O‑ring or gasket. Many caps have a molded rubber seal — if hard or cracked, replace.
- Inspect the filler neck threads and sealing face on the valve cover for burrs, nicks, or heavy oil sludge.

6. Inspect PCV (if applicable):
- Some BT‑50/Ranger engines use a combined filler cap/PCV assembly or the PCV valve is adjacent. Remove and inspect the PCV valve (if fitted) — a working PCV should move freely and not be clogged. Replace if stuck or contaminated.

7. Clean sealing surfaces:
- Wipe the filler neck sealing face and lower cap sealing area with a clean rag. If heavy deposits exist, use a rag dampened with brake cleaner, then dry thoroughly.

8. Replace O‑ring/PCV as needed:
- If the cap gasket/O‑ring is degraded, replace it before reinstalling the cap. If the PCV valve is faulty, fit a new one.

9. Reinstall cap:
- Thread the cap on by hand, turning clockwise until seated. Hand‑tighten until you feel resistance and a solid stop. Most caps do not require specific torque — do not over‑tighten. If cap clicks when tightened, stop at the first click.

10. Final check:
- Wipe any spilled oil from the area, start the engine, let it idle for a minute, then shut off and recheck the cap area for leaks or seepage.
- Reinspect after first drive to confirm no oil or smell of oil.

How the tools are used (brief)
- Flashlight: illuminate threads and gasket area for inspection.
- Rags: clean and keep contaminants out of the fill neck.
- Pick/flat screwdriver: gently remove old O‑ring or pry out PCV valve — use carefully to avoid scratching the sealing face.
- Rubber strap wrench / soft‑jaw pliers: provide extra grip if the cap is stubborn; apply gentle, controlled force. Never use metal pliers directly on the cap.

Replacement parts & notes
- Common replacements: oil filler cap (OEM or aftermarket), cap O‑ring/gasket, PCV valve (if integrated or adjacent).
- Buy the cap/O‑ring by VIN or engine code to ensure fit. If the cap is cracked, replace — do not attempt to repair plastic.
- No special torque tool is required; hand tightening is standard. If your workshop procedure calls for torque, consult factory service manual for the specific engine model.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Removing cap with a dirty rag around it without cleaning the area first — allows debris into the engine.
- Using metal pliers/vice grips directly on the plastic cap — causes damage and leaks.
- Over‑tightening the cap — can strip threads or crack the cap.
- Reusing a hardened or cracked O‑ring — leads to oil seepage and vacuum leaks (PCV interactions).
- Ignoring a stuck or clogged PCV valve — leads to pressure build‑up, oil leaks, performance issues.
- Not checking for oil leaks after reinstallation — small leaks can be missed and cause smoke or odor later.

Quick checklist after job
- Cap replaced or reinstalled properly, sealed.
- Surrounding area clean, no oil residue.
- PCV valve tested or replaced if faulty.
- Recheck after short engine run and first drive.

Done.
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Concise theory and ordered procedure for replacing the clutch release (throw‑out) bearing on a Mazda BT‑50 / Ford Ranger (manual). This explains why each action is done and how the repair fixes the fault. Assume manual transmission; some model years use a concentric/hydraulic slave bearing (CSB) located inside the bellhousing — the same removal logic applies but replacement method differs slightly (see notes).

Principle — what the release bearing does and how it fails
- Function: the release bearing sits between the clutch release fork (or concentric slave) and the pressure‑plate fingers. When you depress the clutch pedal it permits axial movement of the pressure plate while rotating so the clutch can disengage smoothly. It must bear axial load while matching rotational speed of the input shaft to avoid friction.
- Failure modes/symptoms: noisy when pedal depressed (growl/grind), vibration, rough/discontinuous disengagement, clutch dragging or chatter. Causes: bearing wear/seizing, contamination, lack of lubrication, excessive axial load (bad fork/pivot/pilot bearing), or heat damage from slipping.
- Why replacement fixes it: a new bearing restores free rotation and correct axial movement, removing the friction/noise source and ensuring the pressure plate fingers are moved cleanly. If related components (pilot bearing, fork, pressure plate, clutch disc, input shaft splines) are damaged, replacing just the bearing may not fully restore function — you must inspect and address those too.

Quick safety notes (read first)
- Work on a level surface, use rated jackstands (never rely on a jack).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before electrical work.
- Support engine/transmission securely when removing the gearbox.
- Use proper PPE and follow torque specs from the factory manual.

High‑level ordered procedure (with theory at each step)
1) Confirm symptoms and plan parts
- Theory: verify bearing symptoms (noise on pedal, rough disengage). Plan to replace bearing ± pilot bearing ± clutch disc/pressure plate if worn — bearing failure often indicates other wear.
- Action: source correct release bearing (or concentric slave assembly), pilot bearing, alignment tool, clutch grease, and replacement clutch if needed.

2) Prepare vehicle and safety
- Theory: isolate electrical system, prevent accidental engine start, and get safe access to underside.
- Action: park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery, raise vehicle and support on jackstands, remove any undertrays/engine covers.

3) Drain or support fluids and remove driveline components that obstruct gearbox removal
- Theory: driveshafts, propshafts and exhaust can block gearbox removal; removing them prevents damage and allows bellhousing access.
- Action: remove propshaft / rear driveshaft segments (mark alignment), unbolt exhaust if it interferes, remove transfer case links (4x4) as required. Drain gearbox fluid only if necessary for removal location.

4) Disconnect gearshift linkage, wiring and hydraulic lines
- Theory: gearbox must be free of linkages and connectors to separate safely; hydraulic lines should be capped to avoid contamination.
- Action: disconnect gear selector linkage/rods, unplug speed/neutral sensors, remove starter motor for bellhousing access. If an external slave cylinder is used, unbolt it and secure hose to prevent fluid loss; if hydraulic CSB is used, disconnect hydraulic line and be ready to replace/bleed.

5) Support engine and transmission
- Theory: when bellhousing bolts are removed the transmission will be unsupported; the engine and gearbox must remain properly aligned and supported to avoid engine tilt or damage.
- Action: support engine with an engine support bar or jack under oil pan with a block (soften load). Support bellhousing with transmission jack.

6) Remove gearbox mounting hardware and separate gearbox from engine
- Theory: detaches transmission so you can access the clutch assembly in the bellhousing.
- Action: remove crossmember/transmission mount bolts, remove bellhousing bolts progressively in a star pattern, slide gearbox straight back on input shaft while supporting it, lower gearbox out of the vehicle.

7) Inspect clutch components and confirm bearing condition
- Theory: a noisy bearing often indicates clutch disc/pressure plate/pilot bearing wear; replacing the bearing alone when other parts are bad will cause repeat failure.
- Action: inspect pressure plate for heat spots/cracks, measure clutch disc lining thickness, inspect pilot bearing/bushing in flywheel, check input shaft splines and pilot bore for wear. Replace clutch assembly or flywheel resurfacing if required.

8) Remove old release bearing and associated hardware
- Theory: remove the worn component so a new one can be fitted; note orientation and any retaining clips or guides.
- Action: if fork style: remove retaining clip and slide bearing off fork, inspect fork pivot and pivot ball for wear and replace/grease as needed. If concentric slave: unbolt the CSB from the bellhousing and remove with its seals/lines.

9) Prepare mating surfaces and lubricate correctly
- Theory: contamination or wrong lubrication causes premature wear. Splines need light grease; friction surfaces must remain clean.
- Action: clean bellhousing and input shaft; apply small amount of high‑temperature moly grease to input shaft splines (only where the clutch hub slides). Do NOT grease the clutch friction surfaces or pressure plate fingers. Grease fork pivot lightly if recommended.

10) Install new release bearing (and any replaced parts)
- Theory: correct fit and orientation ensure axial travel and rotation are correct, eliminating previous drag/noise.
- Action: fit new bearing/CSB exactly as OEM orientation, secure retaining clips, fit fork or slave cylinder and confirm free rotation/movement by hand. Replace pilot bearing if worn.

11) Reinstall gearbox and torque bolts to spec
- Theory: correct alignment and torque maintain preload and prevent leaks or misalignment of input shaft/pilot bearing.
- Action: use alignment tool to center clutch disc if you replaced clutch. Raise gearbox, slide onto input shaft straight without forcing, start bellhousing bolts by hand, torque to factory values (consult manual), reinstall transmission mount and crossmember.

12) Reconnect hydraulic lines, wiring, driveshafts, exhaust and other removed items
- Theory: restore all disconnected systems and prevent air ingress in hydraulic lines.
- Action: reconnect external slave cylinder/hydraulic lines, electrical connectors, starter, shift linkage, driveshafts, exhaust. Refill gearbox if drained.

13) Bleed clutch hydraulic system and check pedal free play
- Theory: air in hydraulic lines reduces actuation and can cause incomplete release. Proper pedal travel ensures correct engagement/disengagement.
- Action: bleed the clutch until firm pedal, set pedal free play to spec.

14) Test before driving and final checks
- Theory: road test confirms the noise and disengagement problem resolved and ensures no leaks or abnormal vibrations.
- Action: start engine, test clutch engagement in neutral for noise, check gear shifts at low speed, perform road test and listen/feel for any residual issues. Recheck fasteners and fluid levels after first drive.

Specific notes for concentric slave bearing (CSB) models
- If vehicle uses a CSB it is replaced as an assembly inside the bellhousing. The procedure still requires gearbox removal; you likely replace the entire CSB and then bleed the system. Inspect mounting surface and bellhousing bore for scoring; replace seals if damaged. CSBs can fail hydraulically (leak) or mechanically (bearing wear).

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- The worn/seized bearing was generating friction/noise and preventing full smooth axial movement of the pressure plate fingers. Replacing it removes the damaged rotating interface, restoring low‑friction rotation and correct travel. This eliminates pedal‑depressed noise and restores consistent disengagement. Replacing or resurfacing worn mating parts (pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc) prevents immediate re‑failure since damaged neighbors can overload a new bearing.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Reusing an obviously worn pressure plate or clutch disc — leads to rapid re‑failure.
- Over‑greasing splines or contaminating friction surfaces — leads to slipping.
- Not supporting engine properly — causes misalignment/damage.
- Not bleeding hydraulic system thoroughly — leads to poor disengagement.

Torque and specification reminder
- Always use factory torque values and procedures from a workshop manual for your exact year/model. This guide gives order and theory, not exact torque numbers.

That is the concise, ordered theory + procedure.
rteeqp73