general information
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Holden Jackaroo 1991-2002 Factory Workshop Manual digital download
The Isuzu Trooper is a mid-size SUV that was produced by the Japanese automaker Isuzu between 1981 and 2002. In the domestic Japanese market it was sold as the Isuzu Bighorn, the car was exported internationally mainly as a Trooper but it also received several other nameplates including Acura SLX, Chevrolet Trooper, Subaru Bighorn, SsangYong Korando Family, Honda Horizon, Opel Monterey, Vauxhall Monterey, Holden Jackaroo, and Holden Monterey.
In total, there were two generations of this vehicle: the first, produced between 1981 and 1991; and the second (UBS) produced between 1991 and 2002, with a substantial refresh in 1998. Production ended in 2002.
The Trooper began as a rather basic and somewhat underpowered on- and off-road vehicle, offered only with four-cylinder motor, four-speed manual transmission, and part-time four-wheel drive. The first generation evolved to add both amenities and luxuries, including optional air-conditioning, power windows, and a more powerful V6 engine. The second generation was even more refined and available in two-wheel drive as well as four-wheel drive.
In 1991 for the 1992 model year, Isuzu completely redesigned the Trooper to keep pace with changes in the SUV marketplace, making it larger, more powerful, and more luxurious. These 4,155 lb (1,885 kg) vehicles used a 3.2 L 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) (SOHC) petrol engine or 3.2-liter dual overhead cam (DOHC) version rated at 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp). A SOHC 3.2-liter engine producing 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp) was introduced in 1996, replacing the earlier DOHC engine in selected export markets. Most models still used a part-time four-wheel-drive system, which required stopping the vehicle to engage and disengage the front axle. Starting in model year 1996, some Troopers came with a "shift-on-the-fly" engagement system.
1998–1999 Isuzu Trooper, 2001–2003 Holden Jackaroo (UBS) SE 5-door (Australia), 1992–1998 Opel Monterey RS 3-door (Germany), 1999 Isuzu Bighorn (JDM)
From 1992, the UBS series was available with a pushrod overhead valve (OHV) 3.1-liter inline-four engine intercooled turbo diesel (designated "4JG2") producing 114 PS (84 kW; 112 hp) at 3600 rpm, and 260 N⋅m (192 lb⋅ft) at 2000 rpm. It was offered as a more rugged and fuel-efficient option for towing and heavy-duty operation, relative to the standard 3.2-liter petrol. The diesel-powered Jackaroo was available with a five-speed manual transmission and manual front hubs only coupled to a part-time four-wheel drive system with open front and limited slip rear differentials. The 3.2-liter V6 petrol engine version was also available with an optional four-speed automatic transmission with automatic locking front hubs. The same diesel engine was also available in the UK and other markets with a belt-driven overhead camshaft, which developed slightly more power. After 1998, and the introduction of the "4JX1" 3.0-liter diesel engine, a four-speed automatic transmission was made available in addition to the five-speed manual transmission.
The Australian version of the UBS-series was sold as the Holden Jackaroo/Monterey. In July 1993, Holden Special Vehicles also launched 79 HSV Jackaroo models, which were just a cosmetic upgrade to Holden donor powered by the same 3.2-liter 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) (SOHC) petrol engine. Around the same period, Isuzu and Honda established a working relationship that saw Honda sell a rebadged Trooper. The car was thus sold in Japan as the Honda Horizon (1994 to 1999) and in the United States as the Acura SLX (1996 to 1999).
Beginning in 1998, the US-spec Trooper became equipped with a DOHC 3.5-liter engine producing 215 hp (160 kW; 218 PS). European and Asian buyers could opt for the diesel engine option of the 4JG2 3.1-liter (later superseded by the 4JX1 3.0-liter of 159 PS or 117 kW). A Borg-Warner torque-on-demand ("TOD") all-wheel-drive system was introduced, along with freshened styling. The grille was redesigned again for the 2000 model year.
Transmission options included a five-speed manual transmission, the Aisin AR5 and the electronically controlled 4L30E four-speed automatic. The 4l30E was fitted with both a "power" shift feature allowing the gearbox to take better advantage of the engine's power by adjusting the shifting nature and a "winter" mode permitting third gear starts for added stability in slippery conditions. The 2000 to 2002 Trooper included a feature called "Grade Logic" which allowed the transmission to automatically downshift on steep grades in order to slow the vehicle down.
1998–2001 Holden Jackaroo SE 5-door
The suspension consisted of a fully independent torsion bar front suspension, and a multilink coil sprung rear suspension integrated with a solid rear axle.
While US-spec Troopers came only equipped with five seats, elsewhere in the world a seven-seater version was also offered. Optional on all models was a rear limited slip differential. In the US the three-door RS model was sold only from 1993 to 1995. The Trooper LS and S models offered 117.8 cu ft (3,340 L) cargo space, while Limited models had 112.3 cu ft (3,180 L).
In 2002, the Trooper was discontinued in the United States in favor of the smaller Axiom and the larger GM-produced Isuzu Ascender, a re-badged GMC Envoy.
A Trooper with the 16-valve 159 PS (117 kW; 157 hp) 3.0-litre 4JX1-TC engine was sold in the Philippines from 2002 until model year 2005. Known as the Skyroof Edition, it came in a rear-wheel-drive configuration with anti-lock brakes, a limited slip differential, billet-type radiator grille, and large power moonroof. Other standard options included leather seats, wood trim, and a VCD entertainment system. It was later succeeded by the Isuzu Alterra.
Acura SLX
The "Acura SLX" was a lightly upgraded and re-badged Isuzu Trooper sold by the Acura division of Honda from 1995 to 1999, as 1996 to 1999 year models. Sold only in the United States, the SLX was later replaced by the Acura MDX in 2001.
The SLX omitted some of the options available on Troopers from concurrent model years, including the manual transmission and certain engines. From 1996 to 1997 the SLX was only available with the 3.2-litre SOHC or DOHC V6 engine, switching to the new 3.5-litre DOHC V6 engine in 1998. The SLX received a restyled front end for the 1998 model year, but continued to sell poorly and was ultimately discontinued after 1999. It is said that sales were affected by bad press when the 1996 to 1997 models were rated "Not Acceptable" by Consumer Reports for their tendency to roll over during testing (see Rollover Controversy, below). Autotrader says it has a 3-star safety rating (Front and Passenger) and the base entry price was ,300.
Monterey
In Europe, the Trooper/Big Horn was sold in Europe as an Opel from 1992 to 1999. Called the Monterey, the plate lasted until 1999 on the continent (as an Opel) and from 1994 to 1998 in Great Britain, where the Vauxhall badge was used, but it was not a strong seller and was withdrawn from sale a year before the Opel version on the continent. The Monterey name also saw use by Holden in Australia, at first (from 1994) as the top equipment level (V6 only) for what was there called the Jackaroo, but later as a standalone nameplate for the more luxurious part of the range.
Rollover controversy
The second-generation Trooper received negative press in the United States when the 1995–1997 models were rated "Not Acceptable" by Consumer Reports for an alleged tendency to roll over under testing. In response to a petition from the publication's publisher, Consumers Union, the National Highway Traffic Administration conducted its own tests and found no issue that could lead to a need for a recall. However, Isuzu suggested that the magazine's claims had hurt sales of the vehicle.
2001–2003 Holden Monterey (Australia)
After the release of the NHTSA report, Isuzu filed a lawsuit against Consumers Union seeking 2 million in damages, claiming that during Consumer Reports's tests the steering wheel had been twisted more sharply than "a driver is willing or able to make in response to an unexpected event. The judge in the suit, Richard Paez, determined that because Isuzu had engaged in an extensive public relations campaign to refute the claims prior to filing suit, it was considered a public figure, raising the standard for defamation from a simple preponderance of evidence that the report was false to "clear and convincing evidence" that Consumer Reports published the article knowing it was false or with reckless disregard for whether it was true or false. The defamation suit went to a jury, which found that eight of the 17 statements in the report questioned by Isuzu were false, with one displaying "reckless disregard" for the truth on the part of Consumer Reports magazine, but that Isuzu was not damaged by that statement. Two of the ten jurors on the panel did not believe the magazine believed that the other seven statements were untruthful when they published them. Consequently, the full jury panel did not award Isuzu monetary damages for the alleged damage to its reputation and lost sales.Isuzu calculated the total cost of the Consumer Reports claims at 4 million.As Isuzu was denied damages on all counts, the formal court judgement in favor of Consumers Union entered by Paez required Isuzu to pay CU's "reasonable costs" of defending itself against the suit, not including attorney's fees.
North America – Isuzu Trooper (1983–1989), Isuzu Trooper II (1990–2002), sold by Honda as Acura SLX (from 1996 to 2000)
South America and Africa – Isuzu Trooper and Chevrolet Trooper
Colombia – Chevrolet Trooper (First Generation), Chevrolet Trooper 960 (Second generation)
Venezuela – Caribe 442
Asia – Isuzu Trooper, also sold by Chevrolet as Chevrolet Trooper.
Japan – Isuzu Bighorn, Subaru Bighorn, sold by Honda as Honda Horizon (similar to the SLX, introduced in 1994, discontinued in 1999)
Europe – Isuzu Trooper (1st & 2nd Generation) & Vauxhall Monterey (UK, 1992–1998), Opel Monterey (the rest of Europe and Ireland, 1992–1999)
New Zealand – Isuzu Bighorn, Isuzu Trooper, Holden Jackaroo, Holden Monterey
Australia – Holden Jackaroo, Holden Monterey
- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; eye/skin exposure to power steering fluid and metal debris is hazardous.
- Work on a cool engine and set parking brake; chock rear wheels.
- Use a good quality jack and jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- If you are unsure at any step stop and consult a professional.
- Quick overview of symptoms and likely causes
- Low or noisy assist, whining when turning, hard steering: often failing power steering pump, low fluid, or worn belt.
- Fluid leaks under engine or on steering rack boots: often hose or rack seal failure.
- Excessive play in steering wheel or wandering: worn tie-rod ends, rack bushings or rack itself.
- Burning/contaminated fluid or metal flakes: pump failure or internal rack damage — replacement likely.
- Basic diagnostic checks (beginner-friendly)
- With engine off, check power steering fluid reservoir level and color; dark/metallic = contamination.
- Inspect serpentine/drive belt for cracks and correct tension.
- Start engine (stay clear of moving parts) and listen for whining while turning wheel slowly—whine = pump issue.
- Visually inspect hoses, fittings and rack boots for wetness or drips; look under car after turning wheels for fresh leaks.
- With wheel centered, have an assistant lightly move steering wheel and watch tie-rod ends for play; excessive movement indicates worn tie-rods or rack issues.
- Tools you likely already have (basic) and how to use them
- Socket set and ratchet
- Description: sockets in common sizes (10–19 mm) with 3/8" drive and ratchet handle.
- How to use: select correct size, push onto nut/bolt, pull or push ratchet handle to loosen/tighten; use extension for tight spots.
- Combination wrenches (open + box end)
- Description: set of metric wrenches (10–19 mm).
- How to use: box end for higher torque, open end for quick access; pull wrench toward you when possible to avoid slipping.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: assorted sizes for clamps and small fasteners.
- How to use: match tip to screw head, apply steady pressure and turn.
- Pliers (slip-joint and needle-nose)
- Description: grip and hold components or clamps.
- How to use: adjust jaw width, clamp and twist/cut as needed.
- Hammer and punch
- Description: small hammer and drift punch for removing stubborn pins/retainers.
- How to use: tap gently and progressively; protect components with rag.
- Funnel and catch-pan
- Description: wide-mouth funnel; shallow oil/fluid drain pan.
- How to use: position pan under work area to collect drained fluid; use funnel to refill without spills.
- Shop rags and brake cleaner
- Description: rags and solvent to clean parts.
- How to use: wipe fluid/grease and clean mating surfaces before reassembly.
- Extra tools you will need and why (detailed)
- Floor jack and axle or frame-rated jack stands
- Why required: to lift and safely support the vehicle for access to hoses, pump and rack; stands hold it securely while you work.
- How to use: jack at manufacturer lift points, place stands and lower onto stands; never work under car on jack alone.
- Wheel chocks
- Why required: prevent vehicle from rolling while jacked.
- How to use: place behind rear wheels if front is lifted.
- Flare-nut (line) wrenches
- Why required: hydraulic fittings on high-pressure lines strip easily with normal wrenches.
- How to use: choose matching size, fully seat the wrench on the fitting and turn steadily to avoid rounding.
- Torque wrench
- Why required: critical fasteners (mounts, hoses, steering components) need correct torque to avoid failure or leaks.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten until wrench clicks or indicates.
- Power steering pressure gauge (optional but recommended)
- Why required: diagnostic tool to test pump output pressure and confirm pump vs rack fault.
- How to use: attach to high-pressure line via adapter, start engine, observe pressure at idle and during turning; follow gauge instructions.
- Power steering pump pulley puller/installer (if replacing pump)
- Why required: pump pulleys are pressed on and need a puller to remove without damaging pump.
- How to use: bolt puller to pulley and slowly turn center bolt to remove; reverse procedure to install new pulley.
- Hose clamp pliers or pliers for spring clamps
- Why required: many return lines use spring-type clamps that require pliers to remove.
- How to use: compress clamp, slide off hose, release clamp.
- Dead-blow hammer and soft drift (for stuck components)
- Why required: to persuade stuck bolts or components without damage.
- How to use: strike gently and incrementally.
- Replacement steering rack support tool or tie-rod separator (pickle fork) (if replacing rack/tie rods)
- Why required: to separate tie-rod ends from steering knuckles safely.
- How to use: follow tool instructions; if using pickle fork, be prepared to replace tie-rod end seals/boots afterward.
- Parts that may need replacement, why, and what to buy
- Power steering pump (OEM or remanufactured)
- Why: noisy pump, loss of pressure, contaminated fluid, internal failure.
- What to buy: pump specific to Holden Jackaroo model/year — buy OEM or reputable remanufactured unit; match pulley style.
- High-pressure hose and low-pressure (return) hose
- Why: visible leaks, swollen hose, or internal failure results in loss of fluid and pressure.
- What to buy: hoses matched to vehicle year/model; purchase new clamps and O-rings/seals for fittings.
- Power steering rack (rack-and-pinion assembly) or rack seals
- Why: leaking rack, heavy steering, or excessive play often requires rack seal replacement or full rack replacement if internal wear exists.
- What to buy: rebuilt or new rack for Jackaroo; if available, buy a rack with new inner tie rods and seals.
- Tie-rod ends and outer ball joints
- Why: play or torn boots cause steering looseness and unsafe handling.
- What to buy: new tie-rod ends and cotter pins, greaseable or sealed version per vehicle spec.
- Serpentine/drive belt
- Why: slipping or worn belt causes pump not to spin properly.
- What to buy: correct size belt as per engine spec.
- Power steering fluid (manufacturer-specified type)
- Why: wrong fluid degrades seals and performance.
- What to buy: check owner/service manual — use specified ATF or PS fluid.
- Step-by-step repair outline (beginner-accessible)
- Prepare vehicle: park level, chock wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly if you need wheel removal, jack vehicle and support on stands, remove wheel(s) for easier access if necessary.
- Drain fluid: place catch-pan under pump or rack, remove reservoir cap and siphon or loosen low-pressure hose to drain fluid into pan.
- Inspect and replace simple items first: replace cracked hoses, worn belt, and reservoir cap/strainer — these are easiest and often fix leaks/noise.
- Remove pump if replacing
- Use socket/wrenches to remove belt tensioner and drive belt.
- Use flare-nut wrench to disconnect pressure and return lines—cap lines to prevent contamination.
- Remove pump mounting bolts and pulley (use puller if needed).
- Install new pump: transfer pulley or install new pulley with installer, mount pump, torque bolts to spec, reconnect lines with new seals/O-rings.
- Replace hoses
- Remove clamps, pull hoses off (use penetrating oil if stuck), fit new hoses with new clamps and new sealing washers where applicable.
- Torque fittings carefully with flare-nut wrench.
- Replace rack or seals (more advanced)
- Support steering rack, remove outer tie-rod ends (use separator tool), disconnect steering shaft from rack (mark alignment), remove mounting brackets and drop rack.
- Install rebuilt/new rack ensuring correct orientation and center the rack before installation.
- Reconnect steering shaft and torque fasteners to spec; replace any cotter pins and boots/clamps.
- Replace tie-rod ends
- Remove cotter pin and castle nut, separate tie-rod from knuckle, screw in new tie-rod to same length or get alignment after assembly.
- Reassembly: reinstall wheels, torque lug nuts, lower vehicle to ground.
- Bleeding and testing after repair
- Refill reservoir with correct power steering fluid to recommended level.
- Bleed air: with engine OFF, turn wheel fully left-right several times to purge air; top up fluid.
- Start engine and turn steering lock-to-lock slowly several times while watching fluid level and for leaks; top up as needed.
- Check for leaks at fittings, hose connections and pump/rack seals.
- Road test at low speed, check steering response and listen for whining; recheck fluid level and retorque mounts after a short drive.
- If steering wheel is off-center after replacement of rack/tie-rods, get a professional wheel alignment.
- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect used fluid in sealed container and take to a recycling facility; do not pour down drains.
- Clean spilled fluid promptly (it can damage painted surfaces and is slippery).
- When to stop and call a pro
- If you can’t locate the leak, if pump pressures are out of spec (you don’t have the gauge or correct readings), if steering remains heavy/lifted after parts change, or if you’re uncomfortable doing rack removal — a professional shop should handle it.
- Final brief checklist before you drive
- No leaks, correct fluid level, belt installed and tensioned, all fasteners torqued, wheels torqued, steering operates smoothly, alignment arranged if steering geometry changed.
- Note on specs and parts
- Specific torque values, fluid type and part numbers vary by year/engine. Always verify with the Holden Jackaroo service manual or parts supplier for your exact model.
rteeqp73
1) Theory — what the dampers do and how failure shows up
- Function: dampers convert suspension kinetic energy to heat, controlling oscillation of springs, limiting body pitch, roll and wheel bounce so tyres maintain contact patch. They provide velocity-dependent resistance (damping coefficient) in compression and rebound.
- Symptoms of worn/failed dampers: excessive body bounce after bumps, nose-dive under braking, increased roll in cornering, tramlining/poor steering return, uneven tyre wear, fluid leaks or oil on damper body, audible clunks if mounts/bushes fail.
- Why replacement fixes it: a new damper restores the designed damping forces and stroke control, stopping uncontrolled spring oscillation, reducing dynamic load on tyres and suspension joints, restoring predictable handling and braking geometry.
2) Safety and preparation (do these first)
- Work on level surface; chock opposite wheels; use quality jack and axle stands to support vehicle — never rely on the jack alone.
- Replace dampers in axle pairs (both fronts or both rears) to keep balanced damping.
- Get new shock absorbers, new upper mounts/bearings and bump stops/dust boots if worn. Have workshop manual torque values and tightening sequences ready.
- Tools: jack/stands, wheel brace, spring compressor for strut assemblies, spanners/sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench, penetrating oil, pry bar, rubber mallet. Wear eye protection and gloves.
3) Front (MacPherson strut-style) — ordered procedure with theory
- Step 1: Slightly loosen wheel nuts on the wheel to be removed while car on ground. Reason: stops wheel from spinning when raised.
- Step 2: Raise vehicle and support on stands; remove wheel. Reason: access to strut and hub.
- Step 3: Undo sway bar end-link from the strut and any brake line brackets attached to the strut. Theory: free the strut so knuckle can move without stressing links; broken/binding links transmit force into the strut.
- Step 4: Support the lower control arm or hub with a jack so that the knuckle doesn't drop when strut bolts are removed. Theory: prevents shock to CV joints/ball joints and keeps alignment of parts.
- Step 5: Loosen and remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts. Then inside the engine bay or top of tower, loosen (but do not remove) the strut-top nuts, then remove fully and pull the strut assembly down out of the car. Theory: separating the strut from the steering knuckle isolates the damper assembly for safe disassembly.
- Step 6: If replacing only damper cartridge, use a proper spring compressor to compress the coil, then remove the top nut and disassemble spring, upper mount, bump stop and damper. If replacing whole strut, skip compressor and fit new assembly. Theory: coil spring stores energy; compressor is mandatory to control that energy so the top nut can be removed without release of stored force.
- Step 7: Fit new damper (or new strut assembly) with new top mount/bearing, dust boot and bump stop. Reassemble with correct orientation and torque. Theory: new mount/bearing removes noise and frees steering; dust boot/bump stop protect damper internals and control end-of-stroke damping.
- Step 8: Reinstall strut into tower, loosely start top nuts, align lower mount into knuckle and tighten lower bolts to specified torque while under the correct suspension droop condition if manual requires. Finally torque top nuts to spec. Reattach sway-bar link and brake brackets. Theory: correct torque and sequence ensure clamp loads are right; tightening lower bolts under load can preload bushings correctly.
- How this fixes the fault (front): replacing restores rebound/compression control and the upper mount reduces play/noise. This stops excessive dive/roll, improves steering return and tyre contact continuity.
4) Rear (live-axle or trailing-arm shock) — ordered procedure with theory
- Step 1: Loosen rear wheel nuts, raise and support vehicle on stands and remove wheel if necessary for access.
- Step 2: Support axle with a jack to take weight so the shock can be removed without allowing the axle to drop uncontrolled.
- Step 3: Remove lower shock bolt/nut and then the upper shock nut/bolt (or vice versa depending on access). Some models have thru-bolts; penetrating oil helps if seized. Theory: removing both ends releases the damper; supporting axle prevents extra load on mounts and keeps alignment.
- Step 4: Fit new shock in same orientation, ensure bushings are correctly seated, then install upper and lower fasteners. Torque to spec. If the shock has a bias orientation or adjustable end, set as manufacturer state. Theory: correct seating of bushings and torque prevents rocking/creaking and ensures the damper works through full stroke.
- How this fixes the fault (rear): new rear shocks restore vertical damping, reduce axle bounce and wheel hop, improve braking stability and tyre contact during undulations.
5) Final reassembly, checks and post-repair steps
- Torque all fasteners to the workshop manual values in correct sequence. Replace any corroded bolts. Use thread-lock where specified.
- Check and replace worn sway bar links, control arm bushings or mounts found during dismantling — a new damper won’t cure looseness from other parts.
- Wheels on, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec.
- Carry out a slow test drive: initial slow bumps to verify no clunks, then progressive speed to verify handling. Theory: bedding-in and checking for noises ensures mounts are seated and fasteners are correct.
- Get wheel alignment if lower control arm or knuckle was disconnected or if steering feel changed — damper replacement can alter ride height slightly and the correct toe/castor is critical for tyre wear/handling.
- Inspect for fluid leaks and new mounting noise after 100–200 km.
6) Practical theory notes — what to expect and common pitfalls
- Don’t mix old and new dampers on an axle: mismatched damping causes unsettled behaviour.
- Replacing just the damper but neglecting worn mounts, bump stops, dust boots or anti-roll bar links often leaves residual symptoms; those parts share the load and affect NVH and kinematics.
- Compressors: always use rated spring compressors that clamp the full circumference; do not use the cheap hook-type compressors on vehicles they are not rated for.
- Torque sequence matters: top-mount nuts are often tightened with suspension at full droop or normal ride height per manual — failing to follow this can preload bushings incorrectly.
- If symptoms persist after replacement, check tyre pressures, alignment, bushes, steering components and subframe for wear — dampers only control oscillation; other failures also affect handling.
Done. rteeqp73
What you’re fixing and why it matters (plain language)
- The throttle position sensor (TPS) tells the engine computer (ECU) how far the throttle is open. Think of it as a dimmer on a lamp: the TPS tells the ECU how much “light” (air) you’re letting into the engine so the ECU can add the right amount of fuel.
- If the TPS is bad, the ECU gets wrong or jumpy info. Symptoms: poor idle, stalling, hesitation or jerking during acceleration, surging, poor fuel economy, hard starting or engine going into limp mode. Electrical faults can also throw check-engine light codes.
- This repair is needed when the sensor is worn, contaminated, misadjusted, or the wiring is bad.
Overview of the TPS components (every part you’ll see)
- Throttle body: the housing where the throttle plate (butterfly) sits. The TPS mounts to this housing.
- Throttle plate and shaft: the rotating valve that opens when you press the pedal.
- TPS housing (body): usually plastic or metal; contains the sensor electronics.
- Potentiometer element (inside TPS): a resistive track. As the throttle moves, a wiper slides over the track and changes the electrical signal—this is the core sensing element.
- Wiper: the moving contact that slides across the resistive track to produce the varying voltage.
- Electrical connector: usually 3 pins (Reference 5V, Ground, Signal). Some older/other variants may have only 2 pins if it’s a simple idle-switch style sensor.
- Mounting screws/bolts: hold the TPS onto the throttle body.
- Throttle cam / actuator tab: the mechanical interface on the throttle shaft that pushes the TPS wiper.
Tools, parts, and safety
- Tools: multimeter (DC volts and continuity), small socket set and ratchet, screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), Torx/allen bits if needed, fine contact cleaner (electrical), small wire brush, dielectric grease, new TPS (OEM or quality aftermarket), rag, gloves, eye protection.
- Safety: work on level ground, engine off when removing parts, but battery must be connected for live electrical checks. Don’t stick fingers into a running throttle. Disconnect battery for sensor removal/replacement if doing a lot of mechanical work. Avoid shorting wires.
Theory / how the system works (simple)
- The ECU supplies a stable reference voltage (typically ~5 volts) to the TPS reference pin. The TPS acts as a variable voltage divider—its wiper returns a proportional voltage (signal) back to the ECU relative to throttle angle.
- At closed throttle the signal is low (often around 0.4–0.8 V). As the throttle opens the signal climbs smoothly up to around 4.5 V at wide-open throttle (WOT).
- The ECU reads that voltage to control fueling, ignition timing, idle speed, and transmission shift points (if automatic).
- If the signal is noisy or discontinuous (jumps) the ECU can’t accurately control the engine. It can detect symptoms and set a fault code.
Common faults and what can go wrong
- Wear: the resistive track or wiper wears out, causing erratic voltage or dead spots.
- Dirt/corrosion: contamination can make poor electrical contact.
- Misadjustment: TPS mounted slightly out of position gives wrong closed-throttle voltage.
- Wiring faults: corroded connectors, broken wires, bad ground, or short to 12V.
- Mechanical: loose screws, bent tabs, or a sticky/throttling mechanism causing inconsistent movement.
- ECU learning mismatch: after replacement or battery disconnect, the ECU may need to relearn idle and throttle position.
How to diagnose TPS problems (step-by-step)
1. Visual inspection
- With engine off, open hood, locate throttle body and TPS (mounted on throttle body where the shaft turns).
- Check connector for corrosion, broken wires, water intrusion, or crushed pins.
- Check mounting screws for tightness; check the throttle return spring and that the throttle moves smoothly.
2. Read codes
- If available, read ECU codes with a scanner / code reader. TPS-related trouble codes often start with P0120–P0124 or P0220–P0224 (generic for throttle position sensor circuits).
3. Voltage and signal testing (battery connected)
- Back-probe connector (or carefully use pin probes) with the key ON, engine OFF.
- Identify pins: one should be reference (~5V), one ground (0V), one signal (variable).
- Measure reference pin to ground: should be ~5V (4.8–5.2V).
- Measure ground pin to battery negative: close to 0V (few millivolts).
- Measure signal pin to ground: at closed throttle, expect ~0.45–0.8 V. Slowly open throttle by hand while watching the multimeter: voltage should rise smoothly to ~4–4.5 V at WOT. No sudden jumps, drops, or dead spots.
- If reference voltage missing → wiring/ECU problem. If signal stuck or jumps → bad TPS or wiring.
4. Continuity and resistance checks (engine off)
- With connector unplugged, check continuity ground to TPS ground pin; wiring should be intact.
- Some TPS types let you measure pot resistance across outer pins (total pot value maybe ~5kΩ). Rotate throttle slowly and watch resistance change smoothly.
How to adjust or replace the TPS (step-by-step workshop procedure)
A. Preparation
- Gather tools and replacement TPS if needed.
- Park vehicle on level ground, engage park/neutral, set handbrake.
- Ensure ignition OFF initially.
B. Access and removal
- Locate TPS on throttle body (passenger-side typically). Note orientation and how actuator tab engages.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be unplugging or replacing the part to avoid accidental shorts. If you plan to test voltages first, do those tests before disconnecting the battery.
- Unplug electrical connector (press release tab, pull straight out).
- Remove mounting screws/bolts. Support TPS as you remove it to avoid dropping or damaging the throttle linkage.
- Inspect the throttle shaft tab and the TPS mating surface. Clean the area with contact cleaner if dirty.
C. Fitting new TPS
- If reusing old TPS, inspect condition and clean gently with contact cleaner.
- Align new TPS so the wiper engages the throttle shaft cam in the same position. Do not force; the tab should fit cleanly into the slot or seat.
- Fit screws loosely so you can rotate the TPS slightly for adjustment.
- Before tightening fully, you’ll set the closed-throttle voltage.
D. Setting the closed-throttle voltage (adjustment)
- Reconnect battery (if disconnected).
- Reconnect TPS electrical connector.
- With key ON (engine OFF), back-probe the signal wire and measure voltage.
- Adjust TPS by slightly rotating it until closed-throttle voltage is in the target range: typically 0.45–0.8 V (aim around 0.5 V if adjustable). Some ECUs like ~0.5V exact; others accept up to ~0.8V. Rotate slowly and watch for smooth stable reading.
- Once you’re within range and the voltage increases smoothly when you manually open the throttle, tighten mounting screws to secure TPS (tighten snug—don’t over-torque; hand-skillful snugness, then a small fraction of a turn with driver—this is usually low torque, roughly 2–6 Nm depending on bolt size).
- Recheck voltage to confirm nothing moved.
E. Final checks and relearn
- Start engine. Let idle stabilize. Check for smooth idle and no hesitations.
- If idle is rough, perform a simple ECU relearn:
- With engine off, turn key to ON (don’t start) for 2–3 seconds, then OFF for 2–3 seconds; repeat 3 times. Then start engine and let it idle for 2–5 minutes with no accessories on. (This is a generic method; consult a service manual for the exact relearn for your model.)
- Re-scan for codes and clear if necessary. If codes return, record them and follow diagnostic flow.
What to watch for when testing or installing
- Smooth voltage curve is key: use your hand to slowly open and close throttle while watching meter. Any jumps or blips mean the pot is worn.
- Don’t force the TPS beyond its physical limits; excessive rotation may destroy the internal wiper.
- If the signal voltage is zero, shorted to ground, or stuck at a fixed value, check for wiring shorts before condemning the sensor.
- If you see 12V on the signal wire, do not hook sensor up—this can damage ECU (likely a wiring fault).
Maintenance tips and best practice
- Clean throttle body regularly to prevent sticky throttle and to prolong TPS life.
- Use dielectric grease on connector pins after installation to keep moisture and corrosion out.
- Replace with OEM-quality part; cheap sensors often fail sooner.
- If replacing TPS because of intermittent faults, also inspect wiring harness for chafe points and repair any brittle insulation.
Troubleshooting quick-reference (if things still go wrong)
- No reference voltage (~5V) → check wiring back to ECU or ECU power/ignition circuits.
- Signal voltage stuck low or high → wiring short or failed TPS.
- Voltage jumps or dead spots → worn TPS (replace).
- Voltage correct but still poor driveability → check idle control valve, vacuum leaks, MAP/MAF sensors, ignition/fuel system. TPS is one piece of the larger control system.
Final notes
- The TPS is a simple potentiometer in concept but critical to engine management. Treat it gently and test methodically: confirm power and ground first, then signal behavior.
- If you want exact wire colors, connector pinouts, or torque specs for your specific Holden Jackaroo year/engine, consult the factory workshop manual—that gives pin identification and precise values unique to your vehicle.
That’s an end-to-end workshop-style guide — locate it, test it, adjust it, replace it, and what to expect. rteeqp73