The Holden Rodeo is a utility vehicle (pickup truck) that was sold in Australasia (Australia and New Zealand) by Holden. Introduced in 1980, the Rodeo was built by Isuzu over three generations. In 2008 Isuzu and Holden went their separate ways. Holden went with the U.S Chevrolet Colorado and rebadged it the Holden Colorado, while Isuzu went with the ute that so many Australians and New Zealanders had come to love and released the Isuzu D-Max. Prior to the launch of the Holden Rodeo, Holden had imported the first generation Japanese market Isuzu Faster into Australasia under the names Chevrolet LUV (1972–1977) and Isuzu LUV (1977–1980). At the Australasian release of the second generation Faster in December 1980, Holden once again introduced a new name—Holden Rodeo—assigning it the model code KB and thus becoming the first generation Holden Rodeo.
Isuzu in Japan released the redesigned Faster in May 1988, adopted and issued by Holden in August 1988 as the second generation TF series Rodeo. The TF had several designations over its lifespan. The R7 was the first major facelift, introduced in 1997, featuring a completely new bonnet, front quarter panels, and grille. This was the last Rodeo to have chrome bumpers. The R9 arrived later in 1998, which replaced the chrome bumper with plastic bumpers on all models. A V6 engine became available for the first time, which proved very popular. An optional driver's airbag became available for the first time in 2000. In 2001, Rodeos received updated tail lights with clear indicators, replacing the previous orange-coloured ones. Larger composite headlights replaced the previous rectangular sealed beams. A final update in 2002 saw the circular Holden logo appear on the grille, replacing the "Holden" lettering. The 4JB1T turbo diesel engine proved popular in 4x4 models despite its rough running characteristics. 4JB1T in the 4x4 models was not fuel efficient and hampered by 4.55:1 differential ratios giving high engine RPM at highway speeds. By the end of its use in the R9 the 4JB1T reached Euro 2 emission standards. It was superseded late in the R9 lifespan before the all new RA.
Although Japanese sales of the Isuzu Faster ceased in October 1994, it remained in production until general exports began in June 2003 of its Thai-produced replacement, the Isuzu D-Max which launched in its home market of Thailand in May 2002. Australasian sales began in March 2003, earlier than other export markets, as the third generation RA series Holden Rodeo. At this point Holden retired the long-running TF model. Holden maintained sales of the RA generation until rebranding the Rodeo as Holden Colorado in July 2008. This was a result of Holden losing the rights to the Rodeo name following General Motors split with Isuzu.
The D-Max pickup truck received its 2002 world premiere in Thailand. This location was chosen because GM-Isuzu had recently decided to close their small truck assembly plant in Japan and move their joint operation to Thailand. The D-Max is available in various models. The Spark (single cab) (EX) is available only as a 4x2, with three configurations between cab chassis, long bed with power steering and without. SpaceCabs (extended cab), and Cab4s (double cab) can be divided into two major configurations: standard height 4x2s (SL, SX, SLX), and 4x4s (S and LS) with the "Rodeo" name instead of SpaceCab. Crew cabs are all sold with the same Cab4 name (Cab4 models became available late in last quarter). All are built and sold alongside the almost identical Chevrolet Colorado which had debuted in the late first quarter of 2004.
Engine choices for that year till the end of third quarter of 2004 derived from its direct predecessor: 4JH1-T 3.0 and 4JA1-T 2.5.
Hi-Lander 3.0 (lifted 4x2), the trim style became available in late 2003, and ground clearance equals that of the 4x4 models. There are only two cab styles to choose between. This makes Isuzu the third manufacturer in Thailand to begin selling lifted 4x2 pickups (after Toyota and Ford).
In October 2004, Isuzu introduced the DDi iTEQ common-rail diesel engine family for the D-Max. The first engine to appear was the 3.0 4JJ1-TC 146 PS (107 kW; 144 hp), however, since then, a design change in the front end of the car has forced engine alterations. Additionally, new MUA-5H five-speed manual transmission also introduced.
During the first quarter of 2005, a 2.5 4JK1-TC 116 PS (85 kW; 114 hp), the second DDi iTEQ engine, was introduced and offered as an economical choice to replace its aging predecessor (4JA1-T was concurrently available for that year only). A mid-cycle refresh brought many models fitted with a new front bumper that incorporated an "instant spoiler" underneath, 4x4 models and Hi-Lander's suspensions were raised up 25 millimeters extra.
In the third quarter of 2006, the D-Max received a minor redesign and the introduction of a third DDi iTEQ engine, 3.0 4JJ1-TCX. This engine is a modified 4JJ1-TC, incorporating a new Variable Valve Geometry Turbo (VGS). The extra power warranted an introduction of new transmissions as well: the MUX 5-Speed manual and MaxMatic-III automatic transmission. All models equipped with Xenon headlamps were changed to projector headlamps instead. Also introduced was the new "Hexapod-plot" interior. Other DDi iTEQ engines were also tweaked a bit for extra power and efficiency.
In 2007, Isuzu celebrated its 50th anniversary in Thailand with "Gold Series" models sold for the 2008 model year. The Hi-Lander Cab4 model with the VGS turbodiesel engine became available for the first time. The 4x4 models get a new front bumper design with chrome accents. Also added was the choice of a 2.5l 4-cylinder engine in LS 4x4 and Hi-Lander models.
During the middle of the first quarter of 2008, the Rodeo LS and Hi-Lander SpaceCab were also fitted with the 3.0-liter VVGS Turbodiesel engine to fill all the remaining gaps in the lineup.
In the early fourth quarter of 2008, Isuzu introduced D-Max Platinum models for 2009 to replace the outgoing Gold Series. LS 4x4 and Hi-Lander received new fascia; chrome on LS 4x4 and semi platinum-silver on Hi-Lander. Minor-modified headlamps and new fog lamps for a platinum look. 4x2 SLX and SX derived fascias from 4x4/Hi-Lander (before Platinum's fascia). Chrome fascia for 3.0 SLX models and color-keyed fascia for SX. Top heads of 3 DDi iTEQ engines changed from gold to platinum. Some models dropped 4JJ1-TC 3.0l engine. All retooled to be acceptable with Biodiesel B5. All SpaceCab models featured new middle pillars called Safety Pillar Cab; pillars and door beam larger and thicker. Not all Cab4 models received retooled rear suspension called Super Flex Plus suspension. Spark EX also received new gauge and indicator. D-Max Platinum models commenced on sale from 15 October.
In the middle of September 2009, Isuzu introduced the D-Max Super Platinum models. SL model was dropped. Highline SLX 4x2 models received same fascia and front bumper as Hi-Lander / LS 4x4 style, new 16" wheels and newer styles of alloy wheels for SLX / Hi-Lander / LS 4x4, newer rear bumper, and new "Super Platinum" marque at the tailgate. LS 4x4 models received skid plate attached under the bumper in brighter silver, newer sidestep. Highline Hi-Lander / LS 4x4 models have newer style blind spot rear view mirrors, and new short-plot antenna.
Every year since late 2005 until now, there are several special D-Max & MU-7 models. Available exclusively only for a period during Thailand's 2 largest auto shows and also other special Isuzu occasions. They were all unique yet never the same in each presentation. D-Max Smart models are such one remarkably special model set. Available in several occasions during 2008. This edition modifies SpaceCab 4x2 2.5 by special white pearl exterior color and optional equipment such as immobilizer key.
Ever since Platinum models introduced, D-Max Smart models expanded up to 3 choices: SpaceCab 4x2, Cab4 4x2, and Hi-Lander 2-Door. These 3 models also updated as new Super Platinum models.
In 2009, a sport version of the D-Max named the X-Series was introduced, aimed especially for a target group of young people normally not interested in using pickup trucks. It was marketed as a "Lifestyle Pickup" and equipped with additional skirts and prominent red Isuzu letters at front grille. The wheels remain unchanged from the normal model but came with gunmetal paint finish. Available in two-door SpaceCab and four-door Cab4 body variants with a manual transmission.
In 2010, D-Max and MU-7 Super Titanium models were introduced. It featured a frontal camera, usually found in luxury cars, first time ever in a Thai pickup, and are the last model in this generation.
The first generation Isuzu D-Max was launched in June 2005. In the year 2007, Isuzu Malaysia has revealed the latest facelift of its Isuzu D-Max double cab pick-up truck, which has a few improvements in terms of the 3.0-litre engine which now has more power and 19% more fuel efficiency than the pre-facelift version. Another new facelift was launched in 2009 and minor updates occurring in July 2011. The limited edition has been launched for the first generation Isuzu D-Max in Malaysia. The limited-edition is the "Hi-Def" from September 2008, the new limited edition "Hi-Def" launched from June 2012 limited to 210 units.
In Australia and New Zealand, the D-Max was sold as the third generation Holden Rodeo (RA) between 2003 and 2008, before being facelifted into the form of the Holden Colorado. This was a result of the GM-Isuzu split resulting in GM losing the right to use the "Rodeo" name. As with Rodeo, Colorado is available as either two- or four-wheel drive and in a range of body styles including single cab, space cab and crew cab. Power is provided by a range of petrol and diesel engines. Of the petrol engines, Holden offers a 2.4-litre four-cylinder as well as the Australian-made 3.6-litre Alloytec engine. The diesel powerplant is a four-cylinder Isuzu 4JJ1 unit displacing 3.0 litres. The main difference between Colorado and the Rodeo is the revised bodywork from the A-pillar forward.
During October 2008, the Isuzu D-Max was launched in Australia, alongside the almost identical Holden Colorado. Officially available in Australia as its own brand under the marketing name Isuzu UTE Australia, separate to the medium-heavy truck manufacturer, Isuzu Australia.
Tools & consumables
- 10–19 mm socket set + ratchet, extension
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
- Pliers / hose‑clamp pliers
- Long nose pliers
- Drain/overflow pan (10–15 L)
- Funnel and clean containers
- Garden hose (for backflush) or powered radiator flush machine
- Radiator flush chemical (optional)
- Clean water (preferably distilled for final fill)
- Coolant of correct type for Rodeo/Isuzu (check service manual; do NOT mix OAT with IAT)
- Replacement thermostat (recommended) and gasket/O‑ring if replacing
- New radiator cap (recommended) and new hose clamps if old ones are corroded
- Replacement lower/upper radiator hose(s) if required
- Vacuum coolant filler (coolant evacuator) or a large funnel with bleed kit
- Protective gloves, eye protection, rags
- Jack and stands (if needed for access)
- Shop manual or data for capacities and torque specs
- Optional: cooling system pressure tester
Safety first
- Work on a cool engine. NEVER remove the radiator cap when the engine and cooling system are hot — risk of scalding.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Coolant is toxic; avoid skin contact and keep away from pets/children.
- Catch and dispose of old coolant responsibly at a recycling facility.
- Support vehicle securely if raised. Use jack stands.
- Avoid spills on painted surfaces; rinse immediately with water.
Overview (what you’ll do)
1) Warm engine to operating temperature (to loosen deposits), then shut off and let it cool enough to open safely. 2) Drain radiator and engine block (if accessible). 3) Backflush radiator and heater core until clear. 4) Replace thermostat (recommended) and any worn hoses/clamps/cap. 5) Refill with correct coolant mix using vacuum filler or bleed procedure to remove air. 6) Pressure test and road test, then recheck level.
Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Prepare
- Park on level ground, set handbrake, chock wheels.
- Remove radiator cap only after engine has cooled to safe temperature.
- Place drain pan under radiator drain petcock (lower right or lower tank).
2) Warm engine, then cool to warm
- Start engine, run to normal temp (thermostat opens) with heater on full for several minutes. This circulates coolant and dislodges deposits.
- Turn off, allow to cool until you can safely open the reservoir and drain.
3) Initial drain
- Open overflow/reservoir cap to vent system.
- Open radiator drain petcock and drain into pan. If no petcock: remove lower radiator hose to drain.
- If vehicle has an engine block drain (plug), open it to drain trapped coolant (consult manual). Collect all coolant.
4) Backflush radiator (mechanical flush)
- With petcock open, reconnect lower hose or use a garden hose into the top radiator neck (with cap off) and run water through until it runs clear out the bottom. Do this in short bursts; keep water pressure moderate to avoid damaging fins or seals.
- If radiator is badly blocked, remove radiator and flush with hose directly or use a professional flush machine.
- To flush the heater core: disconnect the inlet and outlet heater hoses near the firewall and run water through them until clear. Alternatively, run the garden hose to one hose and let water exit the other hose.
5) Chemical flush (optional)
- If using a commercial radiator flush: reattach hoses, fill radiator with water and the recommended amount of flush chemical, run engine with heater on until operating temp (per product instructions), then allow to cool and drain completely.
- After chemical flush, backflush with plain water until runs clear.
6) Inspect & replace parts
- Inspect radiator, hoses, clamps, thermostat, radiator cap, and drain petcock for wear, swelling, cracks, corrosion.
- Replace thermostat (highly recommended when flushing or if old). To replace: remove thermostat housing, swap thermostat and gasket/O‑ring, torque bolts to spec.
- Replace radiator cap and any cracked hoses or worn clamps. Replace drain petcock O‑ring if leaking.
- Note: Do not mix coolant chemistries. Use the coolant type specified for the Holden Isuzu Rodeo (check manual) — commonly OAT-type in later models. If unknown, flush thoroughly and use new approved coolant.
7) Reassemble & initial fill
- Reinstall drain petcock and tighten (do not over‑torque plastic parts). Reconnect hoses securely.
- Fill system with a 50:50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water or ready‑mix coolant. Use the correct total capacity (check manual for litres).
- If you have a vacuum coolant filler: attach to radiator neck or expansion tank, draw vacuum per tool instructions, open bleed screw(s) (see next) and allow coolant to flow into the system until the tool indicates full and there are no more bubbles. Then release vacuum and top up.
- If no vacuum tool: use large funnel in radiator neck or reservoir. With heater at HOT and fan off, start engine and allow to run at idle. Squeeze upper radiator hose to help move air out. Open bleed valves (if fitted — often on thermostat housing) until a steady stream of coolant with no air bubbles appears. Top up as needed.
How to use common tools
- Garden hose backflush: disconnect lower hose or use top neck; attach hose and run water in the opposite direction of normal flow to dislodge debris. Keep pressure moderate. Continue until water runs clear.
- Radiator flush chemical: follow product instructions exactly—usually add chemical and water, run engine warm for 10–20 minutes, cool, then drain and flush with water.
- Vacuum coolant filler (evacuator): attach to radiator neck or overflow bottle, pump to create vacuum (per manufacturer steps). A vacuum removes air-locks so when you open bleed screws the tool draws coolant into voids until no air. Release vacuum and cap system.
- Pressure tester (cooling system tester): attach to radiator neck, pump to cap rating (~14–16 psi typical) and watch for pressure drop to detect leaks. Do not exceed cap rating.
Bleeding tips (common on Rodeo)
- Heater on max heat ensures heater core valve is open so coolant flows through the heater core when bleeding.
- Work the upper hose by squeezing to force trapped air out.
- Thermostat housing often has a small bleeder screw—open until coolant flows bubble‑free.
- Leave the expansion tank cap off initially and keep topping up until no more air.
Final checks & road test
- Replace and tighten radiator cap to spec. Start engine, let reach operating temperature, confirm heater works, watch for coolant circulation and stable temp gauge.
- Use pressure tester to check for external leaks at hoses, clamps, drain petcock, thermostat housing.
- Road test ~10–15 minutes, then recheck coolant level after cool down and top up in expansion tank as required.
- Recheck for leaks after one day of driving.
Common pitfalls to avoid
- Removing radiator cap when the engine is hot — severe scalding risk.
- Mixing different coolant types (e.g., OAT with IAT) — causes gelling and corrosion.
- Not fully bleeding the system — causes air pockets, overheating, and hot spots.
- Using tap water with high mineral content for final fill — can cause deposits. Use distilled water if possible.
- Over‑pressurizing when pressure testing — do not exceed cap rating.
- Reusing old hoses/clamps if they’re brittle — they will leak soon after.
- Not disposing of old coolant correctly — it’s toxic and must be recycled.
- For plastic radiators, be gentle with backflushing and petcock torque — plastic threads and tanks crack easily.
Replacement parts commonly required
- Coolant (correct type & volume)
- Radiator cap
- Thermostat + gasket/O‑ring
- Hose clamps (crimp or worm drive)
- Lower/upper radiator hoses if soft/cracked
- Drain petcock O‑ring or the petcock itself if it leaks
- Heater hose(s) if deteriorated
Notes specific to Holden/Isuzu Rodeo
- Check service manual for exact coolant capacity and thermostat torque/torque specs.
- Many Isuzu/Holden engines use OAT (long‑life) coolant — confirm the specification before filling.
- If the system has persistent blockages or heater core issues, consider professional radiator cleaning or replacement.
Done. Follow the sequence, use the tools as described, replace worn parts, bleed thoroughly, and pressure test for leaks.
rteeqp73
### Overview of Pushrods in the Holden Isuzu Rodeo
**Pushrods** are components of the valve train in an internal combustion engine, specifically in overhead valve (OHV) designs. They transfer motion from the camshaft to the valves, allowing them to open and close at the correct times during the engine cycle.
### Why This Repair is Needed
If pushrods are damaged, bent, or worn out, they can cause several issues:
- **Poor Engine Performance**: Valves may not open or close properly, leading to reduced power and efficiency.
- **Increased Engine Noise**: A malfunctioning pushrod can create tapping or knocking sounds.
- **Engine Damage**: If a pushrod fails completely, it can cause severe engine damage as valves may collide with pistons.
### Components Involved in Pushrod Replacement
1. **Pushrods**: Long, thin rods that transfer motion from the camshaft to the rocker arms.
2. **Rocker Arms**: Components that pivot on a shaft and transfer motion from the pushrods to the valves.
3. **Camshaft**: The rotating shaft with lobes that opens and closes the valves.
4. **Valves**: Components that open and close to allow air and fuel in and exhaust out.
5. **Valve Springs**: Springs that close the valves when the camshaft lobe is not pressing on them.
6. **Gaskets**: Seals that prevent oil leaks when reassembling cylinder heads or covers.
7. **Oil**: Lubricant that keeps the engine components running smoothly.
### Tools Needed
- Socket wrench set
- Torque wrench
- Screwdrivers
- Pliers
- Engine oil for lubrication
- Clean rag or shop towels
- Replacement pushrods (if necessary)
### Steps to Replace Pushrods
#### 1. Preparation
- **Disconnect the Battery**: Always disconnect the negative terminal to prevent accidental starting.
- **Remove Engine Cover**: If applicable, unscrew and remove the engine cover to access the components.
#### 2. Remove Components to Access Pushrods
- **Intake Manifold**: Depending on the configuration, you may need to remove the intake manifold. This involves disconnecting hoses, electrical connectors, and bolts. Carefully lift it off after ensuring all connections are removed.
- **Valve Covers**: Unscrew and remove the valve covers to access the pushrods and rocker arms.
#### 3. Inspect the Pushrods and Related Components
- **Visual Inspection**: Look for bent, broken, or worn pushrods. Check the rocker arms for wear.
- **Measuring Pushrod Length**: If you’re replacing them, measure the length of the pushrods to ensure you have the correct replacements.
#### 4. Remove Pushrods
- **Remove Rocker Arms**: Unscrew the bolts holding the rocker arms. Carefully lift them off, noting their orientation for reassembly.
- **Extract Pushrods**: Pull each pushrod straight out of the engine block and note their order.
#### 5. Install New Pushrods
- **Lubricate Pushrods**: Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the new pushrods to ensure proper lubrication during the initial start-up.
- **Insert New Pushrods**: Place the new pushrods into their respective positions. Ensure they sit properly in the lifters and rocker arms.
#### 6. Reassemble Components
- **Replace Rocker Arms**: Position the rocker arms back over the pushrods, ensuring they seat correctly. Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque settings using a torque wrench.
- **Reinstall Valve Covers**: Replace the valve covers and secure them tightly, ensuring the gasket is in good condition to prevent leaks.
- **Reinstall Intake Manifold**: If removed, put the intake manifold back in place, reconnect all hoses and electrical connections.
#### 7. Final Checks
- **Reconnect the Battery**: Reattach the negative battery terminal.
- **Check for Leaks**: Before starting the engine, check for any visible oil leaks around the valve covers and gaskets.
- **Start the Engine**: Allow the engine to run for a few minutes while checking for abnormal noises. If everything sounds normal, let the engine cool down and check the oil level.
### Conclusion
Replacing pushrods is a critical maintenance task that can significantly affect engine performance. Understanding the function and importance of each component involved in this process will help you ensure that your repair is successful and that your engine runs smoothly. Always refer to your vehicle's service manual for specific torque settings and diagrams related to your model.
rteeqp73
To check the engine light on a Holden Isuzu Rodeo, you typically follow these steps, focusing on understanding the theory behind each action and how the repair addresses the underlying faults.
### 1. **Read Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs):**
- **Theory:** The engine control unit (ECU) monitors various sensors and systems in the vehicle. When a fault occurs, the ECU stores a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in memory.
- **Action:** Use an OBD-II scanner to connect to the vehicle’s diagnostic port. Retrieve the DTCs.
- **Repair Insight:** Understanding the specific codes helps identify the malfunctioning component or system, allowing for targeted repairs.
### 2. **Visual Inspection:**
- **Theory:** Many issues can be identified through a visual check, including loose connections, damaged wiring, or leaks.
- **Action:** Inspect wiring harnesses, connectors, and vacuum lines for signs of wear, damage, or disconnection.
- **Repair Insight:** Fixing visible issues can often resolve the fault without further diagnostics, restoring proper function.
### 3. **Check Sensor Functionality:**
- **Theory:** Sensors provide critical data (e.g., oxygen, mass airflow) to the ECU. If they fail or provide incorrect readings, the engine may run poorly or trigger the check engine light.
- **Action:** Use a multimeter or scanner to test sensor outputs against manufacturer specifications.
- **Repair Insight:** Replacing or recalibrating faulty sensors ensures accurate data transmission to the ECU, improving engine performance.
### 4. **Inspect Engine Components:**
- **Theory:** Internal engine issues (e.g., misfires, compression loss) can trigger the check engine light.
- **Action:** Conduct a compression test, spark plug inspection, and check for fuel delivery issues.
- **Repair Insight:** Addressing mechanical failures, such as replacing spark plugs or repairing compression loss, resolves performance issues that trigger the light.
### 5. **Clear Codes and Test Drive:**
- **Theory:** After repairs, clearing the codes resets the ECU, allowing it to monitor the vehicle’s systems afresh.
- **Action:** Use the OBD-II scanner to clear the DTCs, then perform a test drive.
- **Repair Insight:** If the check engine light does not return, the repairs were successful, confirming the fault was resolved.
### 6. **Monitor for Recurrence:**
- **Theory:** Continuous monitoring ensures that any reoccurring issues are identified early.
- **Action:** Keep an eye on the check engine light and vehicle performance post-repair.
- **Repair Insight:** If the light returns, further diagnosis may be necessary, indicating a deeper or unresolved issue.
By understanding these steps and their underlying theory, you can effectively diagnose and repair the fault that triggered the check engine light on a Holden Isuzu Rodeo.
rteeqp73
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